Menu Development Archives - Pizza Today https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/ 30 Years of Providing Business Solutions & Opportunities for Today's Pizzeria Operators Thu, 08 Aug 2024 11:13:40 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://pizzatoday.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/20x20_PT_icon.png Menu Development Archives - Pizza Today https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/ 32 32 Cheesy Appetizer Ideas: A Cheesy Start https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/cheesy-appetizer-ideas-a-cheesy-start/ Thu, 08 Aug 2024 11:13:40 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147775 Answer America’s Cheese Obsession on your Apps Menu People are obsessed — absolutely obsessed — with cheese! Make sure your appetizer menu answers America’s cheesy cravings. There is a reason you see so many cheese-based appetizers on restaurant menus. They are proven winners. You’ll find nachos, chips and queso, jalapeno poppers, pretzels and beer cheese, […]

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Answer America’s Cheese Obsession on your Apps Menu

People are obsessed — absolutely obsessed — with cheese! Make sure your appetizer menu answers America’s cheesy cravings.

There is a reason you see so many cheese-based appetizers on restaurant menus. They are proven winners. You’ll find nachos, chips and queso, jalapeno poppers, pretzels and beer cheese, cheesy spinach and artichoke dip and fried mac and cheese balls on pizzeria menus across the country. There are two classic cheesy delights that have become synonymous with pizzerias: cheesy garlic bread (stix) and mozzarella sticks. I’ve included basic recipes that you should play with to find your own unique spin. Try changing up the herbs or cheeses you use, add some heat or intensify the garlic. Create the next big thing.

Two Classic Cheesy Appetizers for Pizzerias

Fried Mozzarella Cheese Sticks

Mozzarella sticks are a classic appetizer to pair with pizza. They have been a popular offering since the 1970s. Sure you can source them. But they are also easy to make in house. Try this Fried Mozzarella Cheese Sticks Recipe!

Cheesy Garlic Bread from Pizza Dough

Garlic bread is another fan favorite app. When you make it cheesy garlic bread, you’ve created an instant hit. Being able to use your regular pizza dough enables to to easily add this one to the menu. Play around with this Cheesy Garlic Bread from Pizza Dough Recipe!

Take cheesy garlic bread to the next level by creating cheesy garlic bombs. Pinch golf ball-sized dough ball and place a cube of mozzarella in the center reshaping the ball. Bake. Toss in a mixture of butter, roasted garlic, Parmesan, and dried basil and parsley. Just changing from bread to ball may help you stand out from competitors.

Now let’s go a bit unconventional with cheesy apps

Your menu is an opportunity to showcase your team’s culinary creativity and expertise. Building appetizers based on cheese opens a myriad of possibilities with more than 1,800 types of cheeses in the world. You can go simple with a caprese salad featuring your fresh mozzarella. Burrata is an appetizer by itself. Or offer marinated mozzarella or baked goat cheese or ricotta. There are a number of ways to highlight cheese to start meals.

Whipped Ricotta

A favorite option is whipped ricotta. This is one simple appetizer that adds an upscale flare and a menu price to match. You can change it up to incorporate various flavors. A great advantage to whipped ricotta is its versatility. You can finish pizza with whipped ricotta or incorporate it into desserts. Get the Spicy Whipped Ricotta Recipe.

Cheesy Appetizer Trend Spotter

We need to thank Wisconsin for a very specific cheese product that is popping up on menus across the country. The cheese curd. Long known as a rite of passage as you enter the state, squeaky cheese curds have gained popularity.

The mild cheddar-like pieces are made from curdled milk in the cheese-making process. They are creamy and known to squeak when you bite into them. You can serve them as is or replace mozzarella in your appetizer applications, like fried mozzarella. Fried cheese curds or garlic cheese curd bombs can pique customers’ curiosity.

Flip the Script on Buffalo Chicken Dip

Buffalo chicken dip is a hot appetizer in more ways than one. This is a fun spin on traditional buffalo chicken dip. It offers upselling add-on options. Make it a Buffalo cheese dip and serve it with chicken tenders or nuggets. If you include the chicken in the fondue, you can serve it with crisp fresh veggies, crostini or chips. Get the Buffalo Chicken Fondue Recipe.

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Lessons in Pizza Sauce https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/lessons-in-pizza-sauce/ Mon, 29 Jul 2024 20:05:46 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147724 A Look at Pizza Sauce Differentiation My first job in the pizza business was when I was 12 years old. My family had just moved back from Italy and was going through rough times. As the eldest of five I wanted to help out and do my part. In 1998, my father opened his first […]

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A Look at Pizza Sauce Differentiation

My first job in the pizza business was when I was 12 years old. My family had just moved back from Italy and was going through rough times. As the eldest of five I wanted to help out and do my part.

In 1998, my father opened his first pizzeria, which was 45 minutes away from home. He would leave in the mornings and not come home till night. My mother had four other children to tend to and was not able to drive me there when I got out of school. This was pre-Uber, pre-cell phone and pre-debit card era. On weekends, my father would take me with him on Saturdays and on Sundays, drop me off in the morning and pick me up at night.

But I didn’t feel like I was doing enough so I went out to all the businesses that were walking distance from home and sought employment for weeknights. I know what you are thinking. Present day it would be crazy to imagine a 12-year-old kid walking in a store asking for work. But I assure you, where I’m from, 25 years ago this was common in my blue collar Italian American neighborhood. All of my closest friends in the 7th grade had jobs. Angelo swept up hair at Albert’s Barbershop, Antonio was a dishwasher at Danny’s Deli, Francesco (Known as Cicc) was a detailer at Jimmy’s Body Shop and Nikki cut potatoes at Auggies Hot Dog Stand.

It didn’t take me long to get hired as a busboy at Teodori’s Ristorante and Pizzeria.

The owner, Lefty, was a widow and used to come have dinner every night. He quickly took a liking to me and would sometimes ask me to join him. He loved asking me questions about Italy. He was born there, but came over when he was five and had never been back. He also starting trusting me, so I would do stuff like mow his lawn and shovel the snow. At the restaurant, too, I quickly gained more responsibilities like helping with prep, working the salad line, and even working the pizza oven when we were understaffed and busy.

Lefty was a very successful businessman, not only respected in our community but also the surrounding areas. He was exceptionally competitive. When he was not at his restaurant, he frequented his competitors’ establishments, sampling their food and trying to gather information about their recipes and products from the staff.

There was a period he was not happy with his pizza sauce, and he would make me go with him to scour through competitors’ dumpsters to see what tomato products they were using. I would take out trash bags and see which different type of canned tomato products they were using, then count how many of each different product so Lefty and I could try to figure out what ratio of each they were using. This actually helped me a few years later when I helped my family further develop their recipe.

Last year I had the honor of studying with three of the top Pizza instructors in the World:

Enzo Coccia, Massimiliano Savia and Tony Gemignani. Enzo is regarded the top Neapolitan Pizza Instructor, Massimiliano the top Roman Pizza Instructor, and Tony the top American Style Instructor. Regarding their respective pizza sauces, Enzo’s Neapolitan has to be a San Marzano DOP tomato, hand crushed (not milled) and he only adds sea salt. Massimo’s Roman does not have to be a San Marzano (Roman Pizza does not have a strict code like Neapolitan) but must be an Italian tomato, hand crushed, with the addition of extra virgin olive oil, sea salt, and fresh basil. Tony’s New York-style sauce is three parts California ground tomato, one part premium California Pizza sauce, with sea salt, fresh basil and dried oregano.

Both Enzo and Massimo are firm believers in hand crushing their tomatoes. Enzo says that it’s something most pizzerias in Naples do not do anymore, but to honor and carry on the tradition of authentic Neapolitan pizza, he will always do it in his restaurants.

Massimo believes that if you take out the hand crushing, you are taking out the craftsmenship and artistic traits of the pizza as a whole, and your masterpiece will not be complete.

Tony was very hard pressed about never adding water or sugar to your sauce. He suggests if you want more sweetness, use more puree or pizza sauce. If you want to loosen your sauce up, he suggests more ground tomato.

Where I’m from in Chicago, we tend to like more earthy, deep and robust flavors.

Think of our Italian Beef Sandwiches, our Chicken Vesuvio and Deep Dish Pizza. Most Chicago pizza sauces, whether tavern or deep dish, feature a good amount of thick tomato puree and a lot more seasoning than you see in styles mentioned above.

Tomato purees and pizza sauces that you find on the commercial market are tomatoes that have been milled or grounded, then cooked to reduce water content and intensify the tomato flavor. This also gives your pizza sauce less of a fresh tomato flavor and more umami and depth. Another reason is that our dough is built very
different.

Tony’s New York and Enzo’s Neopolitan are both in mid 60-percent hydration, while Massimo’s Roman can be in the 80s percentage range. And because of the higher hydration, different types of flour are also used. Ceresota Flour is the most used in our market, and the hydration is typically in the 50-percent range, and always a fat added (oil, butter or lard). The results are a dryer, stiffer dough that can hold more.

My Chicago style sauce that I use on Taverns and Deep Dish is a two part California puree, one part California ground tomato. And here is the biggest difference: we add Romano cheese, dried basil, oregano, salt, pepper, granulated garlic and EVOO. We also like to blend this and refrigerate at least 24 hours so that the flavors combine and really seep in.

My first lessons in pizza sauce came from jumping through dumpsters counting empty cans. My most recent lessons in pizza sauce came from three of the top pizzaioli in the world. Reflecting on this incredible journey I sometimes feel like I’m in a dream. Twenty Five years flies by my dear pizza friends. Dream more, learn more, do more, become more.

Pasquale DiDiana is owner/operator of Bacci Pizzerias in Chicago, Illinois and a frequent speaker at International Pizza Expo.

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Mortadella Pizza with Anthony Falco https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/mortadella-pizza-with-anthony-falco/ Mon, 22 Jul 2024 18:11:35 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147060 A classic Mortadella Pizza is experiencing a newfound popularity I’ve never tasted Bologna, a.k.a. “Baloney”. As a child of vegetarians, I was spared that American childhood staple. Today, I am no traditionalist. I may be guilty, in the eyes of some Italians, of pushing innovation and interpretation into the territory of bastardization, but I have […]

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A classic Mortadella Pizza is experiencing a newfound popularity

I’ve never tasted Bologna, a.k.a. “Baloney”. As a child of vegetarians, I was spared that American childhood staple. Today, I am no traditionalist. I may be guilty, in the eyes of some Italians, of pushing innovation and interpretation into the territory of bastardization, but I have never tried Bologna and I don’t intend to. I’m open to breaking rules, but naming an American hyper-processed lunch meat after a city that many consider the culinary capital of one of the most food obsessed countries in the world is a pretty egregious move. Sorry Italy, there is no excuse for that behavior. So please, everyone, let’s sever any connections between Baloney and Mortadella, and hopefully it will fade away into obscurity.

We can make amends by celebrating the true meat treat of the ancient and great city of Bologna: Mortadella! This delicious salumi, or something like it, has been made in Italy since at least the time of the Romans — and the current form has a documented history going back to the 14th century. Lean pork meat is pulverized into a smooth paste, spiced with salt, myrtle berries, and sometimes studded with black pepper or more recently pistachio, and cubes of fat are folded in … then the whole thing goes into a natural casing. Smaller ones use pig bungs (look it up), and behemoths weighing as much as 200 pounds are packed into beef casings. The secret to its aroma and flavor comes from the cooking process; it’s cooked very low and slow at 180 F for 20 hours or more. The final product is sweet, smooth, and mildly spiced with a firm texture that creates a delicious bite even when sliced paper thin. Imported mortadella can be found at Italian delis or from importers of Italian products here in the United States. Of course, the United States is not alone in its love of this lunch meat.

It’s well known that Argentina and Brazil have huge Italian diaspora communities and their pizzeria scenes are massive, historical, and very popular. Buenos Aires and São Paulo love mortadella as much as they love pizza. In São Paulo there is a famous mortadella sandwich; a massive pile of thinly sliced mortadella is grilled on a plancha, then topped with Queijo Prato (literally translated as plate cheese and similar to Swiss), then the giant pile of mortadella and cheese is placed on a Portuguese roll and served as a knock-you-out, need-a nap-after, sandwich.

Anthony Bourdain loved it so much when he visited São Paulo that he put it in his book, Appetites: A Cookbook. In Buenos Aires bakeries, you can find something called Sándwich de miga; white bread with the crust taken off, filled simply with a slice of meat or cheese, mortadella being a popular choice, and possibly mayonnaise or mustard. Sándwich de miga is very similar to the tramezzino found in Turin and Venice. It’s a very out of place looking sandwich for Italy with its angular pale white squares of bread filled with salumi and mayonnaise. A sort of cognitive dissonance occurs when viewing these in the land of the amber hued crusty panini. But mortadella is not content to be contained in sandwiches alone —pizza is where it really shines!

The first time I remember mortadella being the star of a pizza was when Alan Richman named the mortadella pizza at Great Lake in Chicago the “No. 1 Pizza in America” in his 2009 GQ article. I had been watching Great Lake pizza from afar and sadly I never got to go before it closed, but from the photos, I was amazed at the look of the charred pizza hidden under a thin layer of mortadella lazily draped on top. Since then, I have tried many versions of mortadella pizza all over the world. At Atte Pizzeria in Buenos Aires I added my take on the most classic mortadella pizza to the menu. On a 12-inch Neapolitan dough, pistachio pesto (pistachio, garlic, Parmigiano, olive oil and a little salt which is blitzed to an almost smooth puree) is drizzled on the base, on top of that are chunks of fior di latte mozzarella and some funky taleggio cheese. The pizza is cooked in the wood fired oven. When the charred blistery crusted pizza comes out, we put little piles of very thinly sliced domestic mortadella on the pizza, and finish with finely grated Parmigiano and a sprinkling of crushed pistachio. The vibrant green pesto and lush pink mortadella bundles make this pizza as beautiful as it is delicious.

So, how should you incorporate mortadella into pizza? If you have a slicer, slice it super thin and drape it on after it comes out of the oven. You can lay it flat right onto the cooked pizza or stack it high by folding and twisting it to make small piles. You can create a mortazza, a viral sandwich at the moment, by taking a pizza dough flattened into a circle, covering it with only a thin layer of olive oil, folding it in half and baking it. When it comes out, unfold the dough and stuff it with thinly sliced mortadella. If you don’t have a slicer, cutting it into small cubes or sticks helps preserve the integrity and makes sure it doesn’t burn. Cooking mortadella in the oven is perfectly acceptable, despite what some people say. You could channel Argentina and put cubes on a pizza with mozzarella, then sprinkle some oregano and drizzle spicy chimichurri on it when it comes out of the oven. I’m a huge fan of muffulettas, so recently I made a muffuletta pizza. I start with mozzarella, provolone, chopped black and green olives, sliced red onions, and strips of mortadella. When it comes out of the oven, I sprinkle on some finely chopped giardiniera, Parmigiano and sesame seeds.

The brutal honest truth is that mortadella doesn’t need us, it doesn’t need pizza, and it doesn’t even need bread! It is perfect on its own, sliced wafer thin and lifted with bare fingers into open mouths. I salute all the mortadella purists out there, but feel free to innovate. I have included a recipe featuring this superior lunch meat that is versatile and global, and you can find Mortadella Muffuletta Pizza recipe.

Anthony Falco is an international pizza consultant.

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Chicken Wings Remain One of the Hottest Appetizers in your Portfolio https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/wings-remain-one-of-the-hottest-appetizers-in-your-portfolio/ Thu, 20 Jun 2024 13:11:56 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147646 Story of Chicken Wings History — No Thing But a Chicken Wing Once upon a time, chicken wings were inexpensive due to the nature of supply and demand in American restaurants. According to legend, this part of the chicken was “undesirable” — and when restaurants did use wings it was mostly to create stock for soup. […]

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Story of Chicken Wings History — No Thing But a Chicken Wing

Once upon a time, chicken wings were inexpensive due to the nature of supply and demand in American restaurants. According to legend, this part of the chicken was “undesirable” — and when restaurants did use wings it was mostly to create stock for soup.

Can you believe people used to discard them? Talk about fowl!

Then a light bulb went off in Buffalo, New York. The “aha” moment reportedly was had by Teresa Bellissimo, co-owner of an establishment called the Anchor Bar. Rumor has it she needed to come up with some late-night food quickly on the spot and had plenty of wings sitting around in the kitchen because, you know, no one cared for them in 1964. She deep-fried them, tossed them in a spicy cayenne pepper sauce and the rest is history.

If you believe that version of history. There are several other claims as well. At the end of the day, in your pizzeria in 2024, does it matter who created the Buffalo wing? Not really. What does matter, however, is that they remain wildly popular as an appetizer or entrée. And if you were in business before and during COVID, then you know a thing or two about the price fluctuations and supply chain issues the pandemic brought to an item that once was no more than an afterthought.

(For what it’s worth, in 1977 the City of Buffalo recognized Bellissimo and the Anchor Bar for putting Buffalo wings on the map nationally).

What happened over the next 60 years with wings?

An impressive explosion of popularity. They’ve become a de facto official food of parties and sporting events, right along with pizza. Can you imagine a Super Bowl viewing without both pizza and wings?

Using my family of four as not-so-scientific proof on the micro level, Friday night is “Pizza and Wings Night” in the White House. We call our favorite local indie pizzeria (actually, we order online if you’re keeping track at home) and our order rarely changes: wings, breadsticks and two large pizzas (the toppings do vary based on mood). The pizzeria can count on that order from me like clockwork every Friday around 6:45 p.m. for a 7:30 p.m. pickup.

Obviously, I’m not the only consumer infatuated with wings. In fact, Americans consume nearly 1.5 billion pounds of wings during the Super Bowl weekend alone, according to the National Chicken Council.

That’s just one weekend of the year!

According to Datassential, 76 percent of all restaurants in the United States offer chicken wings on their menu. And the National Chicken Council says 37 percent of Americans say wings, not pizza, is their favorite game-day food.

With demand surging and supply getting cramped during the pandemic, restaurateurs and diners alike felt the sting. From 2011 to 2021, wholesale wing prices spiked from $1.50 per pound to over $3 per pound. That’s according to the National Chicken Council, which also says demand for the product hasn’t just risen domestically, but globally.

Thankfully, the shortage is over. On February 10, 2023, the Buffalo News published a piece where the headline said it all: “The Great Chicken Wing Shortage has ended. The Great Chicken Wing price spike has not.”

Rising prices are here to stay, which is why operators must constantly evaluate costs and price their menus accordingly. What should not change, however, is your dedication to having wings on the menu — because consumers want them in a big way.

Wings are a dual-threat menu item — they can be a starter or the main course.

And there are many ways to prepare and serve them. Don’t have a fryer? No problem! Baked, grilled, smoked … you get the point. Serve them with a dry rub, a classic Buffalo sauce or with a BBQ sauce to keep it simple. Don’t limit your creativity, however. Over the years a wide array of flavors and sauces ranging from Thai Peanut to Garlic Parmesan to Raspberry Habanero have become popular. Much like an open pizza skin waiting to be dressed, think of the humble wing as a blank canvas and do with it as you wish.

2 of the Best Chicken Wing Recipes

If you need a little inspiration to get started, here are two of my favorites.

Bluegrass Bourbon Wings

Get the Bluegrass Bourbon Wings Recipe.

Raspberry Habanero Wings

Get the Raspberry Habanero Wings recipe.

JEREMY WHITE is Editor-In-Chief at Pizza Today.

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Killer Summer Tomatoes — Varieties and Ways to Make Them https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/killer-summer-tomatoes/ Thu, 20 Jun 2024 12:46:37 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147643 A Look at Summer Tomato Varieties, Prep and Recipes Harvesting fruitful tomato rewards from a seedy past In 1521, Hernan Cortez looked upon the smoldering destruction of Tenochtitlan. His 1400 Spanish troops reinforced by 200,000 native tribes had finally succeeded in conquering these fierce Aztec enemies who had also been decimated by months of a […]

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A Look at Summer Tomato Varieties, Prep and Recipes

Harvesting fruitful tomato rewards from a seedy past

In 1521, Hernan Cortez looked upon the smoldering destruction of Tenochtitlan. His 1400 Spanish troops reinforced by 200,000 native tribes had finally succeeded in conquering these fierce Aztec enemies who had also been decimated by months of a smallpox epidemic. Before the battle, conquistador Bernal Diaz noted that he warned that the Aztec warriors “… wished to kill us and eat our flesh and had already prepared the pots with salt, peppers, and xitomatl,” the Aztec term for tomatoes. Nearby, the Franciscan Friar Bernardo di Sahagun noted that as the sacking of the city continued into the market, he remembered seeing an amazing number of tomatoes there. “Some xitomatl were small like cherries, others elongated, round or large with colors ranging from the deepest red to yellow.”  The Aztecs, he noted later, used tomatoes in juices and sauces, or mixed with chilies, avocados, beans, squash and even bird excrement. Cortez and his conquistadors were not captured or eaten but they did bring to Spain new foods like potatoes, turkey, squash and beans, as well as the fruit and seed of the tomato.

Summer Tomato Varieties — Pulp Friction

Hernan Cortez, despite his genocidal tendencies, never knew the breadth of the positive culinary impact his actions brought to the world. Yet even today many chefs and pizza makers do not realize the impact that tomatoes have on their business and for their customers. In some pizzerias, tomatoes are on every pizza and still these pizza makers’ only relationship to the tomato seems to be their use of a #1 can opener to crack open a #10 can of tomato sauce. Others try to save by buying the cheapest sauces and topping pizzas with waxy, unflavored, corporate Romas even in the summer. We all must know that customers today are more knowledgeable than ever and that fresh, local and in-season means flavor. Here are three tomato categories that can be found from mid-summer to fall to wow your customers with.

Heirloom tomatoes:

These are tomatoes that have been handed down from generation to generation and, as a rule, date back more than 50 years. Heirloom doesn’t mean they have better flavor. Mr. Stipey, on the other hand, is a tasty large yellow with red stripes and is sweet and juicy. Cherokee Purple is packed with umami and a deep, smokey and complex flavor. German Pinks are huge and meaty and, if sliced thin atop a pizza, the outcome is dramatic. Black Krims are from Russia with wonderfully dark, smokey flavor.

Cherry Tomatoes:

These come on in abundance in mid-summer and are closer to their wild ancestors than any other. Cherries pack all the intense sweet flavor from a large tomato and compact it into a tomato the size of large marble. Many people consider the Sungold the best tasting variety with its great balance of acidity and sweetness. The Yellow Pear tomato is one of the oldest varieties and only an inch long, but its tapered top has a pleasant look, and a mild sweetness. The Italian Piennolo del Vesuvio is an amazing variety with low water content and thick skin perfect for hanging. This aging transforms this tomatoes’ sweet and tart flesh into a greater concentrated flavor bomb.

Toybox Tomatoes:

These range up to 3 inches. Perfect for stuffing or wedge cutting. I love the Green Zebra for its mildly acidic citrus flavor, but the larger Evergreen has more firm flesh and is sweeter. The Black Zebra has a complex flavor and a high flesh to seed ratio with cool greenish skin but deep red interior. The most popular toybox in France these days is the Cosmonaut Volkov, an unbelievably delicious toybox perfect for topping pizzas with.

There are many other tomatoes in the Plum tomato family like the San Marzano, Olivade, and Roma families. The Beefsteak family has the massive pink. Mortgage Lifter, Brandywine, and Yellow Brandywine, the deeply ribbed Costoluto Genovese is known for its concentrated flavor perfect for sauces.

How to Prepare your Summer Tomatoes — Gimme Some Skin

Preparing in-season tomatoes in your pizzeria produces epic flavors and is a shocking presentation when you know how to match your platform, cheeses and toppings with this lovely fruit. Here are many ways to make fresh tomatoes in your restaurant.

Slicing:

Because tomatoes are very juicy, you will sometimes need to tilt your cutting board with a wet, folded kitchen towel on a large sheet pan after you have sliced them. This will enable the juices to escape and thus ensure that the top of any pizza will not be too watery. Sprinkling a small amount of salt on the fruit will leach more tomato water out also.

Skinning:

Some tomatoes have very thick skins that can burn on pizzas or curl into a leathery annoyance. It is easy to cut an X in the bottom of tomatoes and plunge them into boiling water for just five seconds or less for smaller ones, then plunge them into an ice bath. Most skins come right off this way. Once the skin is off, it is fair game for smoking, coring and making tomato concasse (the French term for small dice).

Oven Drying:

A wonderful way to increase the intensity of flavor is to quarter tomatoes and toss with extra-virgin olive oil and dried herbs. Do not use salt because it will draw too much juice out. Place on parchment in a 200 F to 250 F oven for up to two hours depending upon the type of tomato and how you wish to use them. Sometimes the tomatoes can become too leathery to use on any pizza, so a half-drying bake is preferable.

A Summer Tomato Pizza Recipe — Big Red Triple Tomato Pizza with Pancetta and Brie

I have always loved tomatoes and cured pork, the fresh sweet acidity is a great foil to the salty, crisp and oily pancetta. The cream sauce and just enough mozzarella for a good pull lies under the pancetta. The fig leaf and lemon in the tomato honey imparts a bright vanilla and coconut nuance which embraces the brie slice perfectly and the tomato crisps add an exciting finale to each bite. This pizza is all in the prep. Once that is done, it is incredibly fast to make. Just make sure the pizza cools or the brie will melt into butter.

Get the Big Red Triple Tomato Pizza with Pancetta and Brie Recipe.

JOHN GUTEKANST owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Fresh salad toppings bring vibrance and bite to summer pizzas https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/fresh-salad-toppings-bring-vibrance-and-bite-to-summer-pizzas/ Thu, 23 May 2024 20:20:28 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147542 Salad Pizza: Crunch & Color Pizza and salad are one of those pairings that just make a lot of sense. The lightness of greens cutting through the greasy goodness of pizza creates a complete meal. So why not just make salad pizza? Done, right? I’m all in on this idea. If you’ve ever been curious […]

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Salad Pizza: Crunch & Color

Pizza and salad are one of those pairings that just make a lot of sense. The lightness of greens cutting through the greasy goodness of pizza creates a complete meal. So why not just make salad pizza? Done, right? I’m all in on this idea.

If you’ve ever been curious about trying out the crunchy pizza life, summer is the perfect time to start. With an abundance of fresh greens, fruits, vegetables and herbs to choose from, you can let your creativity run wild. There’s really two ways to go about making a salad pizza. The first is that the salad can be the star of the show, with the crust, minimal cheese and other toppings acting as a base to hold and transport it. This can be a fun presentation, piling the greens up high and spiking the salad with beautiful ingredients. Pick a base cheese that complements the salad and then let the mound of greens and vinaigrette do the work.

The other option is minimal salad to complement the pizza itself. I do this a lot without thinking about it: finishing a pizza with arugula tossed in extra virgin olive oil; a “hot salad” of wilted kale or spinach under the melted cheese; or fresh tomatoes tossed with herbs and smothered in stracciatella. The main thing is to not get hung up on greens being essential as there are so many more ways and ingredients that a salad can be composed of.

There are a few key components of a salad pizza to really make it special. Like any good pizza, it’s important to have a variety of flavors and profiles to balance it and make it pop. Think sweet, salty, sour, bitter, crunchy, chewy, creamy and soft. Luckily there are so many fruits and vegetables during these hot summer months to choose from. A lot of produce is fantastic in its raw form during its growing season but it’s also fun to use different cooking methods, like roasting, marinating, sautéing and frying to change the flavor and texture. Each method produces a wildly different taste and texture to add to a salad pizza.

The different components of a salad pizza are:

• The base. What style pizza dough are you using? Will it be thick and pillowy? Thin and crispy? Light and airy? The type of base will determine how heavy the toppings can be and whether your customers will eat it with a knife and fork or simply folded around the salad.

• The cheese or sauce.

I tend to like a light layer of cheese baked onto my crust for a salad pizza, but you could also add in a marinara or pesto to meld with the salad. Things to think about are if you want this component to really stick out or simply act as a vehicle for the salad to sit on. You can use a bold cheese that complements the other flavors or a mellow one to blend in.

• The greens.

So many to choose from! The basics are always great, like arugula, spinach, kale or butter lettuce. If you want to go outside the traditional box there are options, such as stinging nettles, dandelion or beet greens, frisée or ridicchio and purslane. You also can exclude the greens completely and make another vegetable the main ingredient.

• The jewels.

These are the fruits, veggies, nuts, seeds and herbs that round out the salad and give it lots of texture and, of course, flavor. The addition of fresh herbs can go a long way. Chives are one of my favorites for turning an ordinary salad into a flavor bomb. You can also do fresh oregano or basil.

• Finishers.

If your pizza doesn’t have a super strong cheese or sauce on its base, it’s nice to finish it with a memorable cheese or really nice extra virgin or infused olive oil. A bold vinaigrette is also in this category and can carry the entire pizza. This will be the first thing to hit your taste buds so go for quality over quantity.

The fun part of putting salad on pizza is that there are no boundaries. You can take something as basic as Caesar salad and spin it into a decadent pie using spicy fried chicken pieces, house Caesar dressing and finishing with smashed sourdough croutons. Sound too complex? A classic cheese slice can be made into something new by throwing on a simple arugula, fresh lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil and sea salt salad. It cuts through the grease and adds a nice bite.

As much as I would like to joke that salad on pizza is not true pizza, the fact that it draws attention to vegetables as the star of the dish makes me want to love it. I’m all for a pepperoni slice every day, but I don’t think everyone gives veggies enough credit as pizza toppings apart from on a supreme pizza. Yes, olives, mushrooms and bell peppers are great. But have you tried fresh roasted chilies and Brussels sprouts? They are next level.

If you don’t use a ton of greens on your pizzas already, salad pizza is also a great way to start cross utilizing different ingredients. In my shop, I use spinach in a salad as well as on multiple pies. The same goes for kale and arugula. Kale is great both baked onto the pizza or put on post oven, just remember to massage those greens if it isn’t being cooked on.

A few salad pizza combinations to get you excited and your creative juices flowing:

  • Kale Caesar with Italian white anchovies and Parmesan crisps.
  • Watermelon radish, walnuts, strawberries and arugula with a poppy seed vinaigrette.
  • Tomato salad with fresh oregano, garlic and burrata.
  • Summer squash marinated in gremolata with stracciatella and toasted pumpkin seeds.

Salad pizza is a great item to try out on any summer menu. It’s the perfect way to showcase the abundance of produce, get creative and nudge everyone to eat their greens. Just remember to keep it balanced, include some herbs and finish it on a high note.

Summer Squash Salad Pizza

For this pizza, I marinated raw squash in gremolata to give it a burst of flavor. Don’t be afraid to add a few more fresh herbs or an extra clove or two of garlic to really draw attention. This part of the dish should be in your face bold with the stracciatella to smooth everything out and the pumpkin seeds to add a little extra crunch.

Get the Summer Squash Salad Pizza recipe.

Audrey Kelly owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado.

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Diners are in Love with Cocktails — Your Bottom Line Will Love Them, Too https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/diners-are-in-love-with-cocktails-your-bottom-line-will-love-them-too/ Mon, 29 Apr 2024 15:49:40 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147450 New Cocktails for your Bar Menu — Drink Up While some will say beer is king when it comes to pizza night, the fact of the matter is that cocktails are top-of-mind for many social drinkers. If you have a full bar, offering only beer and wine could be detrimental to the bottom line. Premium […]

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New Cocktails for your Bar Menu — Drink Up

While some will say beer is king when it comes to pizza night, the fact of the matter is that cocktails are top-of-mind for many social drinkers. If you have a full bar, offering only beer and wine could be detrimental to the bottom line.

Premium cocktails are not only hugely popular, but they demand a higher price point that makes those pours worthwhile to the operator. In 2022, the Adeo Group found that while 35 percent of those over the age of 55 are likely to order a premium drink, in the 21-34 age group that number is nearly
20 percentage points higher (54 percent).

And, just like pizza, your cocktail menu is highly customizable. While there will always be a place for traditional favorites like the Martini or Old Fashioned, today’s mixologists continue to innovate and get creative with flavor combinations, garnishes, etc. Just like when you open a disc of dough for a base, once you choose your base alcohol the canvas is open to interpretation.

Spicy cocktails are on trend at the moment. As are drinks mixed with teas, espresso, fresh citrus juices and sours. One of the most popular cocktails in 2024 in Portland, Oregon, for example, is a twist on a classic. It’s an Amaretto Sour made with bourbon, fresh citrus (lemon juice in this case) and an egg white.

While the bourbon market continues to grow, sweet vermouth, gin, dark rums and others are being used in some of 2024’s most trending cocktails. Take a quick glimpse of seasonal bar menus around the country and you’ll find that merely offering a margarita with your beer and wine list isn’t enough to attract a crowd of drinkers looking to spend money.

Interesting Cocktail Ideas

Some interesting cocktails we turned up include:

  • a Fall specialty drink featuring vodka, amaretto, apple puree, apple cider and champagne.
  • vodka with pumpkin puree, espresso and almond milk.
  • a spiked cider with apple cider, spiced rum, peach schnapps and fireball.
  • rum with lime juice, Benedictine, honey, simple syrup and blackberries.
  • cognac with lemon, honey, ginger, bitters, eggwhite, raspberries, gin, lavender syrup, lime juice and fresh mint.

As summer approaches, refreshing cocktails featuring cucumber, watermelon, peach, mint and other cooling flavors will peak in popularity. And, as previously mentioned, spicy cocktails are having a moment in the sun. As are dill pickle drinks! Let’s put them both together for a spicy dill pickle cocktail.

Jalapeno Dilly

Get the Jalapeno Dilly recipe.

Jeremy White is the Editor in Chief for Pizza Today.

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Topping combinations that turn pizza into a winning symphony of flavor https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/topping-combinations-that-turn-pizza-into-a-winning-symphony-of-flavor/ Thu, 25 Apr 2024 19:27:34 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147444 Balancing Act: Flavorful Pizza Topping Combinations “We can form a single united body, while the enemy must spit up into fractions. Hence there will be a whole pitted against the separate parts of the whole, which means we shall be many to the enemy’s few.”  Sun Tzu, The Art of War, 5th Century B.C. Making […]

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Balancing Act: Flavorful Pizza Topping Combinations

“We can form a single united body, while the enemy must spit up into fractions. Hence there will be a whole pitted against the separate parts of the whole, which means we shall be many to the enemy’s few.”  Sun Tzu, The Art of War, 5th Century B.C.

Making pizza is art. Each pizza is a song that starts with techniques to turn time, temperature, water, bacteria and grain into gasses, which, in turn, creates a textural wonder that is enjoyed with the allegro of toppings that play fast, quick and bright across the palate. The sensory memory that sets this pizza apart is a song that people seek out again and again, be it folded in your hand, on a piece of foil, cardboard box or porcelain plate. Pizza transforms inspiration, imagination and insight into a symphony of human creativity. Combining toppings is essential to building these perfect tastes, but to create these masterpieces, you just need to know how.

Usually, when someone asks me about pizza toppings, my pizza mind automatically goes to my makeline menu mix. I see that shiny monster and lift the lids to see the same-old 12 toppings. If you’re like me, you can’t help it — these are the backbone of my pizzeria, the most favorite pizza toppings that my customers order over and over. Our customers’ memories are all about that great experience they had before with these toppings, but these flavor memories can also be replicated in the present tense using creative and well-thought-out combinations. We all must agree that customers are becoming increasingly adventurous with their pizzas. This means that we need to be ahead of the culinary curve and know how to pair toppings in new and innovative ways.

Taste Treatment Plant

There are several ways to think about topping combinations that make for terrific pizzas. One is the flavor history of cooking and pizza, followed by the quality of toppings on hand, and lastly how these toppings interact with others and the platform that they are presented on. Here are a few questions to ask yourself before engineering a new pizza.

Taste: Is it Sweet, Salty, Bitter, Acidy/Sour or Umami/Savory?

Texture: Is it Dry, Crunchy, Soft, Gooey, Wet or Chewy?

Aroma: Is it Sweet, Smokey, Vegetal, Pungent or Wheaty?

Color: Does it have eye appeal?

Pairing: Is there a feeling of completeness? Do all the topping players embrace each other by complimenting or balancing each other?

When thinking about pairing toppings on pizza, think about the last time you’ve experienced a new combination. That taste starts with color stimulating your eye in an introduction to the whole experience followed by aroma, which consists of 80-90 percent of the flavor experience. The textural crunch of a brilliant cornicione, or crust, releases the salty wheatiness that stimulates your appetite, while the sweet umami of the cheese satisfies your need for pleasure. Perhaps the sourness, acidity or spiciness of an ancillary topping adds sparkle and brightness to the finish. You marvel as every bite combines the five elements in a symphony of taste.

Pizza Topping Pairing Blender

Many pizza makers swear by adding only 2-3 toppings to a pizza. But depending upon whether you’re adding flavor vs. enhancing flavor, this may not be enough to bring the flavors to the pinnacle of taste. Your choice of heightening flavors can take two avenues: Adding flavor or enhancing flavor.

Here are a few examples of adding flavor to a three-topping pizza to make it shine:

  • Gorgonzola + Pear + Walnut (add spinach)
  • Mozzarella + Basil + Tomato (add Prosciutto di Parma)
  • Gruyere + Ham + Hazelnuts (add fig jam)

Here is an example of enhancing flavor to a three-topping pizza to make it shine:

  • Manchego + Quince Paste + Almonds (enhance by roasting almonds)
  • Caciocavallo + Ham + Red Peppers (enhance by pickling the red peppers)
  • Provolone + Tomato sauce + Roasted Red Onion (Enhance by roasting onions with Calabrian chilies)

Extra Texture

The creation of pizza is in a unique position to project flavors because it has a very flavorful platform to consider while planning a flavor path. Much like pasta, you need to consider not only the texture, flavor and overall mouthfeel of the pizza but the way it is cooked. Is it caramelized, pillowy and charred, or crispy, thin and golden?

These examples provide just a peek into how pizzas may be enhanced by pizza toppings. There are many historical topping variations to look for that have been used in the past that work well on the pizza platform. They are:

  • Gorgonzola, Fig Jam, Walnuts
  • Artichoke, Roasted Leek, Parmigiano, Cream
  • Mozzarella, Ricotta, Mortadella, Pistachio
  • Anchovy, Garlic, Romano, Parsley
  • Zucchini, Egg, Parmigiano
  • Clam, Chili, Parsley, Romano
  • Eggplant, Roasted Red Pepper, Onion
  • Tomato, Garlic, Oregano
  • Shrimp, Andouille Sausage, Red Onions
  • Peaches, Bresaola, Burrata, Pecan
  • Steak, Blue Cheese, Watercress
  • Fennel, Sausage, Radicchio, Chili flakes

Pork Belly Pizza with Roasted Leeks, Pickled Lemon and Hazelnut

This pizza is amazing because of the wonderful pairing of leeks and pork which transforms like a mushroom cloud of flavor. The Gruyere adds a sour note to the melting mozzarella and the sweet lemon hit is followed by the textural crunch of the hazelnuts.

Get the Pork Belly Pizza with Roasted Leeks, Pickled Lemon and Hazelnut recipe.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Building Blocks: Build Guides and Recipes Create Consistency https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/building-blocks-build-guides-and-recipes-create-consistency/ Fri, 29 Mar 2024 17:36:08 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147292 “Consistency is what transforms the average into excellence” – Tony Robbins Whether you have one pizzeria or 10, two of the biggest keys to success in the pizza industry are duplication and consistency. Often times, you will hear operators say that opening a second store is the kiss of death. In my own journey, I […]

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“Consistency is what transforms the average into excellence” – Tony Robbins

Whether you have one pizzeria or 10, two of the biggest keys to success in the pizza industry are duplication and consistency. Often times, you will hear operators say that opening a second store is the kiss of death. In my own journey, I found that when Caliente opened our second location, since it was close to my home, I could be there a lot of the time. I was also able to balance the time I spent there and at our first location. This made it easier for me to oversee and ensure consistent operations at both restaurants. At that time, we had no written materials saying how to make our food, and no written recipes. When I opened our third location, it was 45 minutes from my house. I could not easily get to all three locations, and if I hadn’t developed written materials at that time to guide consistency and streamlining at all three restaurants, it would have been the kiss of death.

Nick Bogacz, founder and president of Caliente Pizza & Draft House, Pittsburgh

Nick Bogacz, founder and president of Caliente Pizza & Draft House in Pittsburgh

I quickly realized that all three pizzerias had to function relatively the same and that the end result of how the food looked and tasted had to be the same. When you have employees who have been personally trained by you, they will likely end up doing most things in the way you have shown them. It’s when you start to grow your team and more
employees begin learning from employees under you that a breakdown starts. Even when you are personally training, having a reference point like recipes and build guides is essential to success.

So, where do you start when creating build guides and recipes? I believe that you start at the beginning, which means starting with recipes first. I’m not simply referring to the toppings that go on a specialty pizza, but how you make your sauce, and how you make your dough. Anything that you hand-create and hand-mix needs a recipe.

I started the old-fashioned way. Any time I make a batch of something, I write down on a notepad the process or steps along with all the ingredients used to make the batch. Do this with every prep item you have in your pizzeria. Even having a process for the simplest things, like how to slice a green pepper, is important. At Caliente, we slice our green peppers whole. So, you can imagine my dismay when, one day, I walked in and saw diced green peppers on the makeline. There was no process at the time on how to cut them. That had to be corrected.

Following the same routine, every time you make a menu item you will need to write down exactly what goes on it. So, for example, if you are doing a “Supreme” pizza, you would write it down like this:

14-inch dough ball
6 ounces of pizza sauce
32 pepperonis
4 ounces of sausage
4 ounces of mushrooms
3 ounces of green peppers
3 ounces of onions
2 ounces of black olives

Using pictures that illustrate the amounts is also a best practice. Once you gather all your intel, you will want to create a manual and wall charts for your staff to use. I believe in making and using signage inside your pizzeria to create the culture and processes you need to become successful. We will cover signage in the next article of building blocks.

Nick Bogacz is the founder and president of Caliente Pizza & Draft House in Pittsburgh.  Instagram: @caliente_pizza

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Create a Dessert Menu that Customers Can’t Resist https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/create-a-dessert-menu-that-customers-cant-resist/ Thu, 28 Mar 2024 20:09:10 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147289 Sweet Sensation: Scratch-made Dessert Ideas Desserts are a tough sell. Diners have filled themselves up on your main attraction, pizza. That is why it’s so important to put the idea of having dessert into their minds before they even begin filling up. There should be mouth-water images of your desserts strategically placed in your restaurant […]

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Sweet Sensation: Scratch-made Dessert Ideas

Desserts are a tough sell. Diners have filled themselves up on your main attraction, pizza. That is why it’s so important to put the idea of having dessert into their minds before they even begin filling up. There should be mouth-water images of your desserts strategically placed in your restaurant throughout their dining experience. Find out more about marketing desserts.

The desserts themselves shouldn’t be (pardon the pun) cookie cutter. People love making desserts at home so ask yourself this as you evaluate and taste your desserts: does what I’m offering beat anything a customer would make at home? The answer should be yes on every single dessert. The great thing about desserts is they don’t have to be overcomplicated. Some of the best-selling desserts are the simplest. Let’s explore some desserts customers can’t resist eating in the restaurant or taking home for later.

Cookies

This is an easy add onto the dessert menu. Cookies may be made ahead of time and can serve as a great grab-and-go item or packaged promotion. The big questions are which cookie to go with. Similar to pepperoni on pizza, chocolate chip is widely the most popular cookie in the U.S. in study after study. Next, peanut butter, double chocolate chip, shortbread and oatmeal cookies are also popular. A local pizzeria here in Louisville serves corn cookies and they are amazing. They are a cross between sweet cornbread and a peanut butter cookie. You could also go red velvet, sugar, M&M, Snickerdoodle (my favorite), macarons or lemon cookies.

If you are offering cookies, chocolate chip is a no brain. How traditional or unique you make yours is up to you. Here’s a basic recipe below to work from.

Get a classic Chocolate Chips Cookie recipe.

Cake Truffles, Balls or Pops

Cake bites are big with the kids and easy on your kitchen crew. These bite-sized desserts are made of cake mixed with a bit of frosting and dipped in chocolate or white chocolate. You can go wild with type of cake, frosting and dipping flavors. The key with cake balls or pops is the presentation. They should look irresistible. Show them off wherever you can in your restaurant and offer them as a grab-and-go item.

Panna Cotta

This classic Italian custard has experienced a resurgence. It may be because of all the ways you can customize and serve it. Unlike gelatin molds of the 1980s, panna cotta is decadently sleek and presents beautifully. It’s creamy and unique. You can get creative with how you serve it. Top it with fresh fruit like strawberries, raspberries or peaches. You can even pour a fruit-based reduction sauce over the top. Prep is a cinch as it is made ahead in individual portions and ready to serve. 

Get a traditional Panna Cotta recipe. 

Tiramisu

It’s a classic and we will continue to talk about this Italian coffee-flavored dessert. It’s a go-to dessert because people are not likely to make it at home often but if they see it on a menu, they want it. Tiramisu is made ahead in round or sheet pans. It presents beautifully.

Here is a classic Tiramisu recipe to get you started.

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Spring’s Bounty is Ripe for Your Pizza Menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/springs-bounty-is-ripe-for-your-pizza-menu/ Thu, 28 Mar 2024 19:12:38 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147288 Spring Fling: Add spring flavors to your pizza menu It was another muddy spring but here I was again, lurking into my favorite “Ramp Holler”, (local vernacular for “hollow.”) This little valley was my favorite foraging spot for the first wild food of spring — ramps. This location always produced early and heavy because of […]

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Spring Fling: Add spring flavors to your pizza menu

It was another muddy spring but here I was again, lurking into my favorite “Ramp Holler”, (local vernacular for “hollow.”) This little valley was my favorite foraging spot for the first wild food of spring — ramps. This location always produced early and heavy because of the lack of humans, a good water source, and the protection from the cold by the steep ridges above. With each step I felt like being in a slow-motion color machine turning from dark winter brown to splotchy light green then to the most intense viridian green. The ramp “Flags,” or wide leaves fluttered in the breeze all the way up from valley floor to the steep ridges making them move like a green ocean. As I bent over to harvest my first handful of ramp flags, I started thinking about how I would present them on pizza with all the other spring favorites that will soon be popping this new year.

Spruce Springsteen

From mushrooms to spruce tips, the bounty of spring has always added a positive addition to my menu mix. Both wild and cultivated spring foods can be showcased on pizzas and can turn a seemingly “normal” slice of pizza into a game changer. There are so many places to find spring foods. Farmers markets, vegetable auctions, farm visits and even local grocery stores are good locations to find foods in April and May. Here are some wild and farmed spring greats:

Evergreens

The depth of flavor gained by baby pinecones, spruce tips, cedar buds, and even wintergreen is pure magic. I like creating a balsamic-like glaze by reducing the buds with water and sugar. This pairs wonderfully on burrata, gorgonzola and with pine nuts, hazelnuts, Prosciutto di Parma, onions, ricotta, roasted garlic and bacon. Spruce tip Panna Cotta from Italy, or Posset, the British custard, are both cream forward and easy to make. Italian Mugolio and Varenye from the Caucusus both rely upon sugar to draw out the piney goodness of young buds and cones and make thick-sweet sauces that rival and even eclipse Balsamic glaze in flavor.

Spring Violet

by far the best edible flower for garnish you can put on a pizza. There are over a hundred different types of violets, but the common blue violet is the most harvested. Although they are all edible, some are more palatable than others. These are easy to spot and harvest. The greens can also be used in salads, soups and stewed.

Kale

Over wintered kale starts popping even before many other spring foods. This is perfect sauteed or shocked in hot then cold water before topping on pizza with garlic, olive oil, sausage, pork, potatoes, chorizo, onions, lemon, bell peppers, thyme, cheddar and Parmigiano.

Dandelion

An often-forgotten spring food here in the U.S. has been used for centuries in Europe. I was taught by a professional wild forager in the Dolomite Mountains of Italy to dig the small, spring dandelion up and trim the “hip” of the plant, cutting off the roots and the stems leaving a meaty round core like a small artichoke with a sweet, honey flavor with a nutty finish. In the middle of this core is one or two dandelion buds or “capers.” Both can be sauteed, roasted or pickled easily and are perfect to pair with Prosciutto di Parma or Speck, spinach, pork, chicken and mushrooms.

Garlic Scapes

These tender stems shoot from the spring garlic bulb after ramp season. They grow curly and end in an uncloaked flower head. The scape needs to be cut off to ensure the plant doesn’t expend its energy and ruin the underground bulb. I’ve found that using only young scapes that are foot-long are the best because they get tough and stringy the older they grow. Milder than garlic bulbs, scapes can be sauteed, pickled, roasted and pureed into pestos. I like to make Sicilian-style salmoriglio, salsa verde or garlic ricotta. Scapes are perfect for pork, chicken or anchovy themed pizzas.

Ramps

Ramps are the first things to pop up in spring. Try to avoid buying from disreputable dealers who send unsavory people out to clean out the whole forest of ramps. I never use the bulbs unless thinning out patches to grow more. Using the tops either sauteed or just raw before the pizza bake makes for a sublime taste and silky chew. Great with artichokes, asparagus, speck, anchovy, goat cheese, Gruyere, Bel Paese, Ricotta, Parmigiano, potatoes, morels, lentils and ham.

Asparagus

This comes in middle-spring and can be thin or fat depending upon the weather. Most store-bought asparagus is old and sold by the pound with a woody end and even mushy tops. Snap the bottom to find the perfect tender spot. Roasted or sauteed asparagus is wonderful and even raw (if local) on a pizzas or in calzones and makes traditional barriers on pizza like the famous “Quattro Stagione.” The perfect asparagus pairing is with whole grain mustard, pistachio, ricotta, parmigiano, bacon, anchovy, lemon, orange, pestos and in risotto.

Strawberry

This is the great finale of spring, coming at the tail end of this season. Local strawberries, unlike the hollow, hurried and sprayed junk found at the stores, are smaller and sweeter. Perfect for the agro dolce or sweet and sour pizzas like gorgonzola, strawberry and hazelnut pizzas. During the glut of strawberries, I turn to making sweet, pickled strawberries with just a touch of vinegar. These red wonders really shine with rhubarb, olive oil, mascarpone, almonds, spicy capicola, lemon, basil, mango, balsamic, mint and orange.

Morel Mushrooms

These are the spring king of mushrooms. They pop up, (or not) almost every year in the same locations. Morels are especially rare because they are hard, almost impossible to grow because of their symbiosis with forest trees. If you are lucky enough to find these hollow, triangular shaped wonders, you can cut them in half vertically or stuff with chicken mousse, asparagus, garlic, ramps and bacon. I recommend putting the morels on pizza halfway through the bake, so they don’t disintegrate. Fontina, Parmigiano and chevre are great morel cheeses. Lemon, olive oil, black pepper, caraway, fava beans, serrano ham, shallots and country ham are perfect pairings for morels.

Other spring foods that are abundant either in the forest or at farmers markets are Watercress, Wild Violet, Chickweed, Lambs Quarters, Fiddlehead fern, Turnips and Radishes.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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When should a restaurant outsource its desserts? https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/when-should-a-restaurant-outsource-its-desserts/ Thu, 28 Mar 2024 18:12:26 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147287 Outsourcing Desserts The question of when a restaurant should outsource desserts comes up frequently among owners and operators. While some pizza shops may be scratch-only kitchens or able to handle a full menu load, the reality for many others is that outsourcing some items makes sense for their operations. Some even find a balance in […]

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Outsourcing Desserts

The question of when a restaurant should outsource desserts comes up frequently among owners and operators. While some pizza shops may be scratch-only kitchens or able to handle a full menu load, the reality for many others is that outsourcing some items makes sense for their operations. Some even find a balance in using a combination of in-house and outsourced desserts.

Jessica Hellaine, co-owner and operator of Black Dog Pizzeria in Dublin, Ohio says, “Outsourcing our desserts allows us to focus more on our main dish—our pizzas. It is less work for us that can be used elsewhere, and also helps us to save on space, time and money.  We’re just a takeout/delivery pizzeria and so our resources are limited. And working with local bakers allows us unique marketing opportunities.”

Outsourcing desserts comes down to time, labor and space — elements that many operations find sorely lacking into today’s restaurants. It’s important to always run the numbers. If you are considering outsourcing or the reverse and you want to take desserts in house, it is vital to establish your true costs and your pricing and profit margin goals with each dessert item.

If you are an operation that is deciding whether to incorporate dessert into the menu at all, many operators find it is worth it. Datassentials released its report that 60 percent of operators say that the desserts they offer help to drive profit. That survey also found the best-selling desserts were easy to prep and can be eaten on the go.

If you were at Pizza Expo in Las Vegas, you may have noticed, and even tasted, dozens upon dozens of desserts offered by vendors, including gelato, cannoli, cheesecake, cakes, brownies, cookies and more. You may have also tried vegan and allergy-sensitive specific treats to nut, dairy and gluten allergies. With stringent guidelines for allergy-related foods, outsourcing especially these types of desserts can help you limit cross contamination that can occur in restaurant kitchen environments.

Some desserts are prone to outsourcing — like gelato and ice cream. But, the fact is almost any dessert you can dream up is probably already available through outsourcing. There are many options when outsourcing desserts. You need to evaluate which will work better for your business and more importantly which will sell well with customers. Here are sources where you can find desserts:

  • Mainline Distributors. Some advantages to using your established distributor is that you already have a working relationship and delivery processes in place. They also typically have a large catalog of sweet treat options.
  • Wholesale Bakeries. Wholesale bakeries have strong distribution network and can accommodate high-volume bulk production.
  • Local Retail Bakeries. Since retail bakeries have a consumer direct model, name recognition can be high with diners.

A note on wholesale bakeries and retail bakeries: There are several bakeries that operate in both capacities.

What are you looking for in your desserts?

Knowing the answer to this question will help you find out which direction you want to go with sourcing your desserts. When Hellaine is looking for a dessert, she’s says she is seeking, “reliability and unique ‘cool’ desserts that taste good and travel well. We wanted to offer baked goods that are more interesting than just the standard baked cookies and brownies at a lot of the shops nearby. It’s also important for us to keep whatever food we sell as scratch-made as possible, and to work locally.”

Tasting and testing outsource desserts is just as important as when you research and develop in-house items. Run blind tastings with employees, customers and friends and family. Gather an honest assessment before you add it to the menu. This is no time to order and “hope it sells.”

Going with a Local Bakery

If you already have working relationships with local businesses in your community, buying desserts from a local bakery may be a great option for you to continue supporting fellow local companies. Hellaine uses two locally owned bakers/bakeries to supply desserts — Angie’s Rainbow Cookies and Paisley’s Pie.

“We have worked with Paisley’s Pies for about six years and Angie’s Rainbow Cookies for a little over a year,” she says. “Paisleys Pies we found at a local market and asked if she could make pies to sell in our shop—specifically pies unique and only available to our pizzeria. Angie’s Rainbow Cookies came to us asking if we would be interested in selling her cookies through our shop. She had previously been selling Italian rainbow cookies through her website and the local Farmer’s Market circuit.”

You may need to seek out those relationships. This is where social media, review sites and local news sources come in handy. You can find out who is already making the best desserts in town to see if what they offer would fit your business concept.

Working with local bakeries can also allow for flexibility and specialty products. “We put an order in at the beginning of the week with our providers for how many items we need and what type, and they bring them out a few days later,” Hellaine says. “They also make us monthly ‘specialty’ items that can only be purchased at our shop for that month—usually something holiday or seasonal themed—that we sell alongside their regular fare.”

Partnerships with a local bakery are great for cross promotion. “We co-market with Angie’s Rainbow Cookies,” Hellaine says. “She has an amazing social media presence and by collaborating on stories, feeds, and posts, we have access to each other’s customers. She’s brought a lot of her fans to us and our shop, and we’ve introduced a lot of people to just cookies. It’s a win-win and I think customers really appreciate seeing two local business owners working together and being front and center for their products.“

DENISE GREER is Executive Editor of Pizza Today.

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The Tomato and Pizza Sauce Journey https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/the-tomato-and-pizza-sauce-journey/ Wed, 28 Feb 2024 21:48:31 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147064 The story of how our Pizza Sauce came to fruition The Global Tomato Market generates $181.74 Billion in revenue yearly. To put that in perspective, that is larger than the GDP of Ukraine and Morocco, and not far off from Greece, Peru and Portugal. According to a study published from the USDA in 2019, “Americans […]

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The story of how our Pizza Sauce came to fruition

The Global Tomato Market generates $181.74 Billion in revenue yearly. To put that in perspective, that is larger than the GDP of Ukraine and Morocco, and not far off from Greece, Peru and Portugal. According to a study published from the USDA in 2019, “Americans on average consume 30lbs of tomatoes per year. Sixty percent of that comes from canned tomatoes, as Pizza Sauce contributes to the high consumption of the vegetable.” Here is the story of how our Pizza Sauce came to fruition.

Tomatoes are a central and iconic element to Italian Cuisine, yet they are actually a “newer” ingredient that didn’t come along until the late 1600s. It’s hard to believe that some of the most famous Italians ever, Julius Caesar, Leonardo Da Vinci, Marco Polo, Michelangelo and even Christopher Columbus never had a dish of Spaghetti Pomodoro. George Washington, Ben Franklin, Sam Adams… our Founding Fathers did not know what pizza was.

Hundreds of years ago, long before Europeans had set foot in the New World, tomatoes grew wild in the Andes of Western South America. The natives began cultivating them, eventually bringing the plant northward through Central America and into Mexico. When the Spanish arrived in the early 16th century, they found the inhabitants growing a food crop called “tomatl” in the native language.

Seeds were brought back by the Spaniards, but tomatoes were not an easy product to introduce to fellow Europeans: they did not look or taste like any known plant, they had a strange consistency and texture and they were very acidic when green. Once ripe they were soft and they disintegrated in the lengthy cooking which was common at the time. But the climate and soil of the Mediterranean were ideal for their growing, and since they did not compete with local crops it was used as a supplementary one that did not interfere with the traditional ones.

For many years, tomatoes were feared,

partly due to their resemblance to the venomous nightshade plant and partly because of a false story that quickly circulated about a group of upper-class Europeans who died after eating them. While the group did experience fatalities after consuming tomatoes, further investigation revealed that the high acidity of the tomatoes leached lead from the pewter dinnerware, causing lead poisoning. The story circulated for years, raising suspicions across the continent.

It wasn’t until 1692 that we see the first-ever recipe featuring tomatoes appearing in “Lo Scalco alla Moderna” by Antonio Latini. Antonio, an orphan at the age of 5, grew up homeless in the streets but was eventually taken into a kitchen. He worked his way up to become the Steward for the Viceroy of Spain and Naples. His published recipe was for a sauce containing cooked tomatoes, intended as an accompaniment for cooked meat or fish. In 1790, Roman Chef Francesco Leonardi published the highly regarded cookbook “L’Apicio Moderno”, where he wrote the first recipe and proclaimed he had ”invented” pasta al pomodo (pasta with tomato sauce).

Early traces of pizza go back to ancient times with the Egyptians, Romans and Greeks, but pizza as we know today emerged in the 18th century, in the Southern Italian port city of Naples. From 1700 to 1750 the city’s population doubled from 200,000 to 400,000. There was a big need to feed a bustling metropolis with people always on the go. Street vendors would purchase disc-shaped flatbreads from bakeries and keep them warm in small tinned copper stoves that they balanced on their heads. Ingredients were simple like lard, garlic, salt, basil and in some instances caciocavallo cheese and fresh tomato.

Many believe that pizza sauce was invented by Raffaele Esposito in 1889 because he was credited with the invention of the “Pizza Margherita”. According to the legend, Queen Margherita summoned Raffaele to the Royal Palace to prepare the popular dish among the locals in Naples. Out of the three pizzas he prepared for her Majesty, her favorite was the tomato, basil, mozzarella pizza, of which he named in her honor. However, while we can attribute the naming of the pizza to Raffaele, we know with certainty that he was not the creator of that pizza, nor the first pizzaiolo to use tomato sauce.

In the second half of the 1700s, references to fresh tomatoes as pizza toppings began to emerge in essays and books, reflecting a growing trust among Neapolitans in tomatoes, due to their abundance, low cost, and ease of cultivation. The evolution continued in 1792 when Giuseppe Sorrentino obtained a business license to bake focaccias and pizzas, marking the establishment the first recorded pizzeria in Naples. This shift sparked a wave of entrepreneurs opening pizzerias, breaking away from the reliance of bakeries. Over the subsequent 50 years, Pizzaioli likely engaged in experimentation, incorporating tomatoes and tomato sauce onto pizzas as we recognize them today.

The first factual mention of pizzas with tomato sauce,

specifically describing what we now know as “la marinara” and “La Margherita” comes from Francesco de Boureard in his 1866 book “Usi e costume di Napoli” (Customs and traditions of Naples). We’ve established pizzaioli were making sauces with tomatoes, let’s remember that tomatoes were still seasonal during this period, available only part of the year.

Francesco Cirio, a Northern Italian, started working at his father’s fruit and vegetable stand in Turin at 14. Inspired by French confectioner and chef Nicholas Appert, Cirio established a canning factory in 1856, at the young age of 20, pioneering the Appertization method for preserving food with heat initially focusing on peas. With the high demand of tomatoes in Southern Italy, Francesco founded the countries first tomato factory in 1875, near Naples in San Giovanni Teduccio and Castellamare di Stabia. These towns were near the Vulcanic Angro Sarnese region, where the popular San Marzano tomato continues to grow till this day. The year-round availability marked the exponential growth of tomato popularity in Italy, and then also in Europe. We also know it’s safe to say in 1875 pizzaioli all over Naples were using the peeled tomatoes year-round to make their pizza sauces.

Italian immigrants introduced pizza to New York in the early 1900s.

Initially baked in coal fired (also some wood) bakery ovens, their sauce mirrored traditional methods, made by hand crushing whole peeled canned tomatoes with the addition of salt. The canned tomatoes being used were not the expensive imported Italian ones, but the more economical American grown, which had a different flavor profile than they were accustomed working with. Due to the higher acidity than the San Marzano, I would suspect sugar and olive oil could have begun to find its way to some of the Pizzaiolis recipes, in attempts to achieve the balance of the tomatoes they were accustomed to.

The complete evolution, or revolution depending on how you want to look at it, really began in the 1930s when Frank Mastro invented the gas oven. Adopted by most New York and East Coast pizzerias by the 1940s, these ovens baked at a lower temperature that required much longer cooking times. A sauce with less water content that prevented the pizza from drying out and to help retain its moisture was needed, and so thick tomato sauces, dense purees and slow cooking batches of tomatoes to reduce water content where deployed.

By the 50s pizza had spread rapidly across the country. It was taken up by many enterprising restaurateurs who were often not from an Italian background, and adapted to reflect the tastes and needs of the cultural melting pot that America was becoming. It was no longer an Italian ethnic dish, but a proud food that became symbolic of the local people it was serving. Hence we see the birth of different styles, like the Chicago Deep Dish or the Detroit Pan, and the addition of non-traditional ingredients to their pizza sauce like sugar, oregano, garlic, onion, pepper and rosemary to name a few.

Pizza sauces have not really changed much from the 60s and 70s when we had our biggest boom of pizzeria openings. In talking to many operators around the country, I have noticed places adding their unique signature, like Janet Zapata of Pizza 550 in Loredo, Texas, who adds a little crushed pepper to her sauce to give it a kick, or Tony Garcia from Guy from Italy in Lubbock, Texas, who likes to add a little more sugar than average to kill the acidity and bring an additional level of sweetness.  I do believe we will see a change in the way tomatoes and sauces are packaged in the future. Some manufacturers are offering their products in plastic aseptic bags (think bag in box), that they claim offers a unique set or advantages that help preserve the freshness, flavor and nutritional value of tomatoes. And some dispute that claim. Regardless of how it’s packaged, one thing I know for sure is that we will always love our pizza sauce.

Pasquale DiDiana is owner/operator of Bacci Pizzerias in Chicago, Illinois and a frequent speaker at International Pizza Expo.

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Ricotta Cheese is a Staple Item for Every Pizzeria https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/ricotta-cheese-is-a-staple-item-for-every-pizzeria/ Tue, 27 Feb 2024 21:07:24 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147059 Ricotta Cheese: Role Player Ricotta is a whey cheese to which pizzeria operators are no stranger. A menu staple in many pizza shops and Italian restaurants coast to coast, the creamy cheese plays a role in various applications from calzone filling to lasagna enhancer to pizza topper. It often lends texture more than sheer flavor, […]

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Ricotta Cheese: Role Player

Ricotta is a whey cheese to which pizzeria operators are no stranger. A menu staple in many pizza shops and Italian restaurants coast to coast, the creamy cheese plays a role in various applications from calzone filling to lasagna enhancer to pizza topper. It often lends texture more than sheer flavor, which contributes to its ability to be used in both savory or sweet dishes.

Though it can be made from virtually any animal milk, in the United States ricotta is predominately made from cow’s milk. The item isn’t going to be the shining star in most dishes, but ricotta’s functionality makes it nonetheless a must-have. Getting right to it, here are some recipes that make excellent use of the cheese. As always, use these as a starting point and experiment until you get it just right for your customer base.

Interested in trying your hand at making your own fresh ricotta in house? It’s surprisingly simple. Here’s an easy method.

Get the Fresh Ricotta recipe.

Jeremy White is the Editor in Chief for Pizza Today.

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When it Comes to Sandwiches, the Humble Panini is a Giant https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/when-it-comes-to-sandwiches-the-humble-panini-is-a-giant/ Tue, 27 Feb 2024 19:56:08 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147057 Panini Ideas: Full Court Press It will come as no surprise that the best panini I’ve ever had was served to me in Italy. My wife and I were walking the streets of Parma when a cold spring rain forced us to take cover in a nearby trattoria. It was lunch time and we ordered […]

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Panini Ideas: Full Court Press

It will come as no surprise that the best panini I’ve ever had was served to me in Italy. My wife and I were walking the streets of Parma when a cold spring rain forced us to take cover in a nearby trattoria. It was lunch time and we ordered paninis. They were mind blowing good!

Up until that point, I had never been the biggest fan of the sandwich. That day changed my opinion quickly. I now seek them out.

They are an easy sell, especially when paired with a salad or soup as a lunch special. If you’ve been considering adding them to your menu, here are some recipes courtesy of Pizza Today contributor and Pizza Expo speaker John Gutekanst to get your experimentation started.

Piri Piri Chicken Panini

Piri Piri refers to the fiery African birds-eye chili pepper which has been used in a garlicky sauce and marinade since the fifteenth century. This sauce is purportedly Portuguese in origin but the people in South Africa, Namibia, Mozambique and Angola have claims on origin and recipes that vary widely. I just love making this sauce for my heat-seeking customers because it is perfect on vegetable and chicken pizza. If the recent trend toward hot chicken sandwiches continues, this panini is bound to be a game changer. You can substitute red Cayenne, Arbol, Manzano or Serrano and adjust the heat from there.

Get the Piri Piri Chicken Panini recipe.

Fajita Steak Gyro Panini

This giant panini crosses all boundaries but cleans up in the taste category! Like the Piri Piri, all the work is in the back-end preparation. This marinade is as spicy as you want it to be and complements the addition of a huge melting blob of sharp cheddar, sautéed onions and bell pepper. The two gyro buns are a perfect platform instead of a too-thin fajita and a too-thick sub bun. I like to cut this into 8 to 10 slices for a fabulous table appetizer.

Get the Fajita Steak Gyro Panini recipe.

Jeremy White is the Editor in Chief for Pizza Today.

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13 Pizzeria Menu Trends from the Pizza Industry Trends Report https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/13-pizzeria-menu-trends-from-the-pizza-industry-trends-report/ Fri, 23 Feb 2024 20:18:45 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147039 Key Menu Takeaways from the 2024 Pizza Industry Trends Report We have spent months pouring over last fall’s Pizzeria Operator Survey results. The extensive 2024 Pizza Industry Trends Report is a lot to digest and hits on many facets of pizzeria operations. If you know me, you know I love crunching the data and finding […]

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Key Menu Takeaways from the 2024 Pizza Industry Trends Report

We have spent months pouring over last fall’s Pizzeria Operator Survey results. The extensive 2024 Pizza Industry Trends Report is a lot to digest and hits on many facets of pizzeria operations. If you know me, you know I love crunching the data and finding common themes and trends. Pizzeria menus are so important that we devoted some much needed attention in the report to what is happening on pizzeria menus in America.

In the report, we highlight current menu trends, including top pizza styles nationally and by region, Top 20 pizza toppings, hot toppings to watch and pizza toppings on the horizon. We know that offering multiple pizza styles is on trend. Detroit is the top pizza style to add for the second year in a row. Grandma and Sicilian are coming up fast. Pizzerias are branching out from traditional pizza toppings. Meats are still on top as pizza toppings. There are so many more over-arching pizza menu trends in the report. If you haven’t read the 2024 Pizza Industry Trends Report yet, check it out.

Now, I’m looking across the data to share insights that I discovered in our survey. I’m going deeper into the data to break down striking menu trends to take notice of.

Here are the 13 Pizzeria Menu Trends from the Pizza Industry Trends Report

  1. Seafood lovers are a niche that some pizzerias have earned, when done right. Those with seafood on the pizza menu gravitate towards shrimp, clams, crab meat and yes, anchovies.  
  2. Americans are crazy for chicken. It’s the sixth most popular topping. Not only that, but operators are also testing new ways to use chicken in their kitchens. Baked, smoked, fried, barbecued or seared, it’s a great versatile ingredient to take across your menu.
  3. Vegan is still very hot. When it comes to plant-based offerings, imitation is best form of flattery. Consumers are looking for those common pizza toppings that are plant-based. Popular vegan items include vegan mozzarella, vegan pepperoni and vegan sausage.
  4. Wings might have a high food cost, but they are the second most popular item on the menu behind pizza at most pizzerias in the U.S. Wings can be dressed in many ways. Most popular include classic Buffalo, dry rubbed, BBQ and garlic Parmesan. 
  5. Sandwiches are providing a great return. Go classic with sandwiches and watch your lunch daypart get a boost. Top sandwiches from the survey included Italian Beef, meatball, Italian sub and a steak and cheese.
  6. More burgers are going on pizzeria menus. If you are adding a burger, be sure you’re going with high-quality beef. Smash burgers and thick gourmet-style burgers are hot right now. You can’t have burgers without fries. Expect to see them on the burger menu and offered on their own on the apps menu.
  7. Customers crave more doughy masterpieces to accompany their pizza orders. Cheesy bread, garlic bread or garlic knots are a solid add-on choice for customers. They prove to be an in-demand item across the country.
  8. Even amid concise menus, salads are a strong sales item. Today’s customers expect more than iceberg lettuce and carrots. Be as bold with your salad menu as your pizza menu. Create color, use local produce and top with interesting or even house-made dressings.
  9. Pasta is a hit with pizzeria diners. The most noteworthy pasta on menus around the country is lasagna. It’s a great option if you are looking for something that can be made ahead of time and heated to order. Second is traditional spaghetti and meatballs.
  10. Meatballs were one of the most added items to menus. They are versatile gems — great for the pizza menu, on sandwiches or as a standalone app with marinara and hot chili oil. See Audrey Kelly’s Hot Chili Oil Story.
  11. Over 82 percent of operators surveyed indicated that they offer a vegetarian pizza. It’s is one of the easiest offerings to add. Every makeline is equipped to make a vegetarian pizza. We would like to see that number at 100 percent. 
  12. Nearly 66 percent of operators surveyed offer a gluten-free crust. While you do not hear about gluten-free in news headlines as much, gluten-free is still top of mind with American consumers with gluten sensitivity or Celiac Disease. 
  13. A surprising 39 percent offered a cauliflower crust. While in many cases cauliflower crusts are a good gluten-free option, they are also diabetic friendly, Keto friendly and low carb.

Knowing what is happening on pizzeria menus at a national level can help you evaluate what to add, what to keep and what to remove. Explore more menu trends in Menu Development. Be sure to complete our survey later this year so that what’s happening at your pizzeria can be counted nationally.

DENISE GREER is Executive Editor of Pizza Today.

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Hot Oil is a Great Pizza Topping and Condiment https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/hot-oil-is-a-great-pizza-topping-and-condiment/ Fri, 23 Feb 2024 19:42:12 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=147037 The Stinger — Trending Hot Chili Oil Hot oil is the answer to what all your pizzas have been missing. Looking to add extra flavor to a basic cheese pizza? Hot oil. Looking for a fun condiment to keep on the tables? Hot oil. Does your Italian sub need some zing? Hot oil. As you […]

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The Stinger — Trending Hot Chili Oil

Hot oil is the answer to what all your pizzas have been missing. Looking to add extra flavor to a basic cheese pizza? Hot oil. Looking for a fun condiment to keep on the tables? Hot oil. Does your Italian sub need some zing? Hot oil. As you can see, there are many ways to utilize this awesome ingredient.

The four main ways to use hot oil are:

  1. Use it as a finisher for any dish — pizza, salads, sandwiches or appetizers. The versatility of chili oil makes it the perfect complement to so many unexpected dishes.
  2. As a marinade. Brush different raw meats and veggies before you cook them with hot oil to create a more dynamic flavor and add an underlying heat to the pie or dish.
  3. As a dipping sauce. Forget Ranch or even honey. All you really need is one banging hot oil to make sure every last bite of crust gets eaten up. You can also serve it with a side dish of homemade focaccia or garlic knots.
  4. In the pan. Instead of using straight olive or canola oil for sautéing and roasting, cut it in half and sub out hot oil.

 

Making Hot Oil

There are really two different ways to make hot oil. The first is using a pre-made canola or a neutral tasting olive oil and infusing it with chilies. The second is by adding fresh chilies to the olives during the olive oil extraction where the chilies and olives are then crushed together. This is called the Agrumato Method. This method creates beautifully complex and flavorful oils. The only downside is that you definitely need to have an olive mill to produce it.

As you can see there are a few differences to the two process’ of making hot oil. David Garci-Aguirre, the Master Miller at Corto, has been making Agrumato oils there for a few years now. He said, “It is so important to distinguish agrumato oils (sometimes referred to as co-milled or co-crushed) from other flavored oils because they are so unique. The making of olive oil is a complex process where incredible flavors and aromas are formed. When you add fresh ingredients at this stage you can create new and unique combinations of flavor and aroma that cannot be replicated in the kitchen or after the oil is extracted. Infusions and extracts for example, tend to be very one dimensional in flavor. This is because there is no interaction between the ingredients when the flavors of the oil are being developed. In contrast, agrumato method oils are the product of an intricate interplay between both ingredients.”

Since the two versions of hot oils taste very different, the one you decide on will depend on how you want to use it and whether or not you want to make it yourself. I think a basic, infused hot oil can be a great all-around option to have at your shop. Since it is fairly inexpensive to make, you can use it as sauté oil or give it away as a dipping sauce to customers. With such a unique and aromatic flavor, Agrumato oil on the other hand, is the perfect finisher for pizzas and the flavor really comes through baked into dishes and desserts. Think chili olive oil cake, focaccia finished with a drizzle of chili oil or house-made chili rolls.

If you want to make your own hot oil in house, and I will say I am definitely one of those people who likes to make anything I can in house, there’s a good chance you already have all of the ingredients on hand. Simply said, chili oil can be made from infusing oil with chilies. You can use any chili but a neutral oil is recommended. There are only three basic ingredients: oil, chili flakes or dried chilies and time. You can change up the flavor by the type of chilies you use and whether or not you add additional ingredients.

The main thing to keep in mind is the temperature of the oil. You want to be between 180 F to 350 F. The hotter it is, the darker the oil will be. If it gets too hot (think smoking), it will burn the chilies and result in a bitter flavor. You can test the oil by dropping in a few chili flakes and if it sizzles, it is ready. I like to leave the chili flakes in the oil for a few days to gain maximum flavor, then strain. After that the oil is ready to go. Chili oil also has a pretty long shelf life, two to three months if you store it in a cool, dark place.

To make other types of chili oils you can add other ingredients, such as granulated garlic, shallots, salts or peppercorns. A really popular one is a chili crunch sauce. While this is traditionally used in Asian dishes, it adds a ton of flavor and texture, which can be great on pizza too.

Different oils in general are great flavor boosters for pizza and just like a great extra virgin olive oil, hot oils can be cross utilized throughout your menu. They are a great addition to sandwiches, can add a kick to salad dressings, tossed with wings and used to finish appetizers, such as a mushroom crostini or burrata over roasted vegetables. It’s also easy to make a big batch and have it available for your customers to add to their own slices and pies.

There are multiple dimensions to every pizza and when you want maximum flavor you want to look at every one. I’m a big believer that there doesn’t need to be tons of toppings on a pizza but rather good quality and well thought out ones. Hot oil provides a complex and flavorful option to up your pizza game.

Hot Oil Recipe:

Get a Hot Oil recipe.

Audrey Kelly owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado.

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When does a pizza become a regional pizza style? https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/when-does-a-pizza-become-a-regional-pizza-style/ Wed, 31 Jan 2024 19:10:25 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146939 Hairy Styles: Classifying Pizza Styles If you feel like you’ve been experiencing Regional Pizza Style Fatigue lately, you’re not alone. Not long ago, the vast majority of Americans categorized all pizza into just a few broad categories: New York Style, Chicago Style and Other. Thanks to the Food Network, social media and various pizza competitions, […]

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Hairy Styles: Classifying Pizza Styles

If you feel like you’ve been experiencing Regional Pizza Style Fatigue lately, you’re not alone. Not long ago, the vast majority of Americans categorized all pizza into just a few broad categories: New York Style, Chicago Style and Other. Thanks to the Food Network, social media and various pizza competitions, we’ve been exposed to a wide array of global variations. Some are legitimate regional specialties while others are mere mirages used for marketing. How do we tell the difference and when is it important to ignore such classification? Let’s find out by diving into the history of regional style nomenclature.

What defines a food as regional in the first place?

The original pizza of Naples was itself a regional distinction. Well into the 17th century, the term pizza was used to describe cookies and cakes. The famous Renaissance chef Bartolomeo Scappi’s 1570 recipe collection, Opera, includes several recipes for biscuits and cinnamon buns that he portrays as different types of pizza. When the savory pizzas we now love appeared in Naples around the mid-18th century, the modifier Napoletana specified the dish based on its point of origin. Geography is certainly the most important element of a regional style’s definition.

There are strong parallels between pizza and BBQ, particularly in the case of provenance. BBQ expert and New York Times best-selling author Meathead Goldwyn explains that “South Carolina [currently] has many different styles of BBQ but the one that’s unique has a mustard-based sauce. Germans brought that in through Charleston.” In the same way, Texas style BBQ is often beef-focused because cattle were more common than pigs by the time the regional designation was made. The connection between place and food is integral to the legitimacy of a regional style.

detroit style pizzaDifferentiation is another important step in determining a regional style’s definition.

Karen Dybis, author of Detroit Style Pizza: A Doughtown History, relied on that concept for clarity in her research for the book. “Detroit style pizza is not round, isn’t baked in a standard pan, does not only use mozzarella, and the sauce is not below the cheese.” The fact that Detroit’s deep square pizza isn’t identical to any other city’s indigenous style is what defines its identity.

This explains why Chicago’s deep-dish pizza has long defined its hometown despite being far less popular locally than thin, square-cut pizzas. By the early 1980s, it was seen as the antithesis of New York City’s thin slices. Chicago Pizza Tours founder Jon Porter points out the contrast between the Chicago deep-dish and NYC slice dining experience. “There weren’t many places that did [deep-dish] pizza. You had to go downtown, find a parking spot, and wait 40 minutes for your pizza. It was a special occasion restaurant, unlike the everyday corner slice shop experience in New York.”

deep dish, pizza slice, The Art of Pizza, ChicagoAlthough the distinct characteristics that form a regional style are integral to its definition, the public is more concerned with what’s on the plate rather than a set of required recipes. According to Italian food expert, award-winning author, and TV host Katie Parla points out that Romans accept variation among their city’s Pizza Tonda restaurants. “They’re not all adhering to a specific [recipe], but the final product has the crispy and chewy texture that the local population requires.” We see plenty of variation in the pizza of Naples, but they all serve a similar size, texture and experience. The same goes for the pizza of New Haven, Connecticut. The city’s pizza is often associated with coal-fired brick ovens, but only a small number of its
pizzerias use them.

New Haven pizza expert, and author of Pizza In New Haven, Colin Caplan credits longevity for his hometown’s signature style. “Pizzerias in the New Haven area have been making it the same way for around a century. Our pizzas are thin, crispy, and charred – that’s what the people of New Haven have come to expect,” says Caplan. “I get [upset] when the pizza’s not charred.” Charred pizza isn’t unique to New Haven, but it has become an expectation across the past century.

What legitimizes a regional pizza style?

A legitimate regional style requires critical mass both in terms of the number of pizzerias serving it and the number of consumers recognizing it. A new pizzeria in Tuscaloosa that claims to have created Tuscaloosa style pizza last year is not making a legitimate regional style. Nor is a pizza that bases its identity on a topping combination. For instance, Hawaiian pizza has never claimed to be a style of pizza from Hawaii. It’s merely a topping combination loosely referential to the island state. Windsor, Ontario has several pizzerias that claim to make Windsor style pizza, but the only common thread among them is the use of shredded pepperoni, canned mushrooms and a local mozzarella. That’s a topping combination, not a regional style. We tend to identify artisan pizzas made with local produce as California style, but pizzerias across the country have managed to do the same without being anywhere close to the Golden State.

This begs the question: at what point does one pizzeria’s specialty transform into a regional style? Dybis thinks it’s all due to recognition from beyond the region. Despite being around since the 1940s, Detroiters didn’t recognize their own deep, square pizzas as a regional style until just over a decade ago. Some of the earliest
instances of the phrase “Detroit Style pizza” come from articles written in the 1980s in places like Lincoln, Nebraska, reporting on the new pizzeria in town that’s making “unique thick square pizza with the sauce on top.” Once enough pizzerias started serving the thick squares in Colorado, California, Texas and New York City it suddenly became a recognized regional style.

margherita pizza, neapolitan pizza stylePizzerias today often desire to be associated with a particular style. It definitely makes marketing easier, especially when a style is different from the mainstream options. Pizza schools and certification courses are making it easier than ever to gain credibility and acceptance. There are programs for Neapolitan, Roman, New York, New Haven and even Detroit style. For pizza makers interested in learning new methods or newcomers looking for a place to start, categorization can be extremely helpful.

With all the content bouncing around social media, it’s now easier than ever to draw inspiration from multiple styles, resulting in cross-pollination that blurs the lines separating regional classifications. Meathead Goldwyn believes that strict taxonomy is becoming less advantageous. “I think those walls have tumbled down. There used to be regional styles, but we’re in a global economy now.”

Humans love to categorize. It gives us a sense of order that helps establish expectations. As helpful as it can be for those entering the pizza business or customers encountering an unfamiliar slice, it can get in the way of creativity. Meathead puts it best. “I think we really need to worry less about these definitions and just make beautiful food.”

Regional Pizza Style Requirements:

  1. Origin: All regional pizza styles are tied to a specific birthplace.
  2. Differentiation: Must be unlike other styles in the area and unique from styles in other areas.
  3. Longevity: Requires decades of existence.
  4. Critical Mass: Both in terms of the number of pizzerias making the style and the population’s acceptance.
  5. Recognition: The strongest regional styles are referenced from beyond the region.

SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org  Instagram: @scottspizzatours

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Think differently about how you use bell peppers on pizza https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/think-differently-about-how-you-use-bell-peppers-on-pizza/ Mon, 29 Jan 2024 18:36:27 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146929 Bell Peppers on Pizza: Ring the Bell It’s time to ring the bell. Bell peppers, of course. Bell peppers ranked as the No. 8 most popular pizza topping in America, according to our pizzeria operator survey published in our 2024 Pizza Industry Trends Report. In some areas of the U.S., bell peppers break into the […]

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Bell Peppers on Pizza: Ring the Bell

It’s time to ring the bell. Bell peppers, of course. Bell peppers ranked as the No. 8 most popular pizza topping in America, according to our pizzeria operator survey published in our 2024 Pizza Industry Trends Report. In some areas of the U.S., bell peppers break into the Top 5 Pizza Toppings.

Most pizzeria toppings list include these peppers that are in the Grossum Group of the Capsicum annuum. Let’s dive into a few more fun facts about bell peppers. They are in the nightshade family Solanaceae and they are native to the Americas. Bell peppers are loaded with Vitamin C. Red, yellow and orange bell peppers are all variations of the green bell pepper at various stages of ripeness and are typically sweeter than the green. Did you know that Paprika is made from bell peppers? If you haven’t played with dusting a bell pepper pizza with paprika or even smoked paprika, here is your invitation to try it.

Raw vs Cooked Bell Peppers

How you prep your peppers is up to you. Whether you use them raw or cooked may impact how you cut them. Generally, peppers are diced, sliced or cut into rings. Thickness varies.

Avoid large chunks or cuts when you are applying bell peppers raw onto a pizza. They will not have time to fully cook, unless you are going for the crunch of a pepper.

The mild flavor of the bell pepper makes it a good complement for other toppings. It doesn’t overpower other flavors. This is why you see so many supreme, deluxe and the works pizzas include green bell peppers. Peppers are raw in this application.

If you are looking to enhance the flavors of the bell peppers, cooking will bring out the sweetness. Cooking will also evaporate excess water in the pepper. You can saute them but a better method for a pizza kitchen is to roast them in your pizza oven. Simply leave whole and place on a roasting pan. Or quarter the peppers and remove the seed. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper and roast until you get a nice char on the skin. When removing peppers from oven, some choose to peel the skin off. But many prefer to keep the skin on.

Take peppers across the menu

Bell Peppers can be used in everything from appetizers and salads to sandwiches and pastas. Get the most of your pepper inventory with dishes that make bell peppers shine. There is one areas I’d like to see more bell peppers appear in and that is sauces.

An easy sauce that will wow customers is a pepper pesto. The spin on a traditional pesto is full of flavor and perfect on a pizza with chicken and spinach. Here’s the recipe:

Get the Roasted Red Pepper Pesto recipe. 

John Gutekanst has shared a sauce from Rome that is dynamite on pizza or on sandwiches. For an upcharge, offer it as a dipping sauce. Here is his recipe.

Get the Roman Roasted Pepper Sauce recipe.

The possibilities in pizza topping combinations that work well with bell peppers is endless. One of the most popular pizza combinations is a sausage and peppers pizza. Let’s create a simple, yet flavor-packed pizza recipe that kicks up the flavors of sausage and complements the bell pepper. Here’s the recipe:

Get the Spicy Sausage and Sweet Pepper Pizza recipe.

DENISE GREER is Executive Editor of Pizza Today.

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What makes a great pizza? https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/what-makes-a-great-pizza/ Mon, 29 Jan 2024 18:16:30 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146928 Walk through the Pizza Process Everyone’s ideal pizza will look, taste and feel differently. The key to building your perfect pie is understanding how to utilize different dough methods and how they will change your final product, picking the right tomatoes, cheese and toppings as well as when and how you add ingredients to your […]

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Walk through the Pizza Process

Everyone’s ideal pizza will look, taste and feel differently. The key to building your perfect pie is understanding how to utilize different dough methods and how they will change your final product, picking the right tomatoes, cheese and toppings as well as when and how you add ingredients to your pizza.

The Dough

Let’s start with the dough. Depending on what style of pizza you are making, the ingredients and dough process will be different. The one thing that all doughs should have in common though, is proper fermentation. It is when the proteins in flour combine with water to create gluten. Yeast (whether commercial or natural) is added and consumes the simple sugars in the dough to create carbon dioxide bubbles. With the addition of salt, a stronger bond and gluten net form, causing the dough to rise and age. If you think about it, the slower and longer this process is, the resulting crust will be more dynamic by creating lots of airy bubbles and flavor in the dough. That being said, you don’t want to over ferment dough. Once there is no more fresh flour for the yeast to oxidize, the dough will turn flat and sour, thus not rising. That is why it is important to pick the right flour and hydration for your fermentation process and time.

Certain flours are synonymous with specific types of pizzas, but there is so much more to a flour than just the company that produces it. A few things to look for are:

  • Protein percentage: the higher the protein of a flour the longer the fermentation time can and will be.
  • W Factor: the extensibility of the dough or the strength of the gluten in the flour. A flour with less gluten, or a soft flour will be between W180-250. A strong flour will be between W250-300.
  • Grind of the Flour: Measured on a scale from 00-2 with 00 being the finest and 2 the coarsest.
  • Bleached or unbleached: Bleached flour uses a chemical aging process whereas unbleached doesn’t.

After you settle on your flour, the next important decision in dough is whether you use a Direct Method (mixing flour directly with yeast, salt, water and any other ingredients in your dough) or Indirect Method (A two-stage process to making dough using either a Biga, Poolish, Pate-ferment or sourdough starter).

The Sauce

While a lot of thought and experimentation should go into finding the right dough, the toppings can be just as important since they are the first thing that hits a person’s taste buds while devouring a slice. I’m a big believer that your sauce will only be as good as the tomatoes that go into it. That’s because it you use a quality tomato you don’t need to add very much else. The flavor of the fruit speaks for itself. There are a lot of different types and brands of tomatoes available, each bringing a unique flavor and texture to your final product. Almost everyone is partial to one or another. This can be dependent on the style you are making, where you live or what dominant flavor you look for in a tomato. For example, if you make certified VPN Neapolitan pizza, you definitely want to use DOP San Marzano tomatoes. This particular variety is only grown in the fertile soil under Mount Vesuvius in the Campania region of Italy. If your pizza style doesn’t need a specific tomato, there are a few really great options that are grown in the USA or Italy. Whatever you choose, you want to make sure they have a bright flavor and color as well as a good mouthfeel. A few of the different tomatoes you can buy are: whole peeled, strips, crushed/ground with skins on or off, or tomato purees. Blending a few varieties can create a balanced sauce without having to add additional sugar. Almost all pizza sauces should be uncooked. There are, of course, exception, such as using a sauce that needs to be cooked down with other ingredients like onions or Guanciale. The reason that it should be uncooked is that it cooks in the oven and you want to retain the sweet, bright flavor of the tomatoes.

The Cheese

Cheese. Pizza people stand by their brand of cheese and will almost never waiver or change. I’ve used the same brand since opening, but every year we re-try other brands or new ones that have emerged. My brother and I will do a blind taste test but every time we land on the one we have always used. The reason for revisiting it every year? The price. Whether you use fresh mozzarella, blocks or even stretch it yourself, cheese is one of the most expensive components on your pie. Yes, tomatoes and flour are expensive these days too, but the quantity you use per pizza compared to cheese is much, much smaller. My brother jokes that we should have a market price for slices depending on how much the cheese is.

Aside from the brand of cheese, a few things to look at for mozzarella cheese are:

  • Milk fat percentage: do you want whole milk, part skim or a blend? I am a big believer in whole milk mozzarella. That grease drip that comes off your folded slice? Pure goodness. However, if you’re looking for a cheese that gives a good pull (think Insta worthy), part skim will be more your jam.
  • Pre-shredded or blocks: Pre-shredded is obviously easier and very consistent. The downside is that a lot of brands add an anti-caking agent to them which gives the cheese a grittier texture. They are also usually more expensive than block cheese but that also is determined by your labor costs. If you buy the blocks you can either shred it or slice it. Slicing has the advantage of being very consistent for portioning.
  • Mozzarella or blend: Mozzarella is the most common cheese on pizza but obviously different styles have different cheeses. Certain brands are coming out with mozzarella blends (cheddar, provolone, etc.).

Once you’ve decided on your dough, sauce and cheese, it’s time to consider any additional toppings. When and how you put on toppings can change the way a pizza tastes and feels in your mouth. If you put cheese on top of the sauce it will taste different than if you put it on the bottom. If you pinch on fresh sausage rather than add on sliced links it will interact with the other toppings differently. Certain things should always go on before the bake: raw meats, certain veggies and cheeses. While others should go on after: Arugula, cured meats, finishing cheeses and oils.

The type of oven should also be a consideration when building your ideal pie. Whether you use gas, electric, wood or coal, the choice will affect the structure, texture and flavor of your pizza. Each type and brand bakes differently so it is a personal choice. You can manipulate it with certain things like what bench flour you use, the temperature you bake at (hot and fast or low and slow), whether or not you use a screen and how long your dough has been out.

As you can see, creating your perfect pizza really comes down to time and temperature, picking the right flour, tomatoes and cheese as well as toppings. There are a few other things that I live by when making a pizza, or really any dish for that matter. Never underestimate the value of a really good olive oil. Don’t forget to salt and as I tell my Little Slices, salt in stages.

Really, the bottom line is, stay true to your pizza and dough but take the necessary steps to make it properly fermented, structurally sound and acceptably topped. Most importantly, never stop learning and trying to improve your craft.


Don’t miss Audrey’s Demo at Pizza Expo 2024

Wednesday, 10:15 am -11:15 am

D05 Demo: How to Build a Better Pie

Audrey Kelly, Owner/Pizzaiola, Speaker, Audrey Jane’s Pizza

Type: Demo | Track: Demo | Room No: Show Floor Demo Area

See the full Pizza Expo Education Schedule.

Audrey Kelly owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado.

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The evolution of Traditional American Pizza https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/the-evolution-of-traditional-american-pizza/ Mon, 29 Jan 2024 17:07:46 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146926 Traditional American Pizza Styles: States of Play Explaining what an American style pizza is to anyone is like showing them a what an American looks like. The breadth and depth of diversity of pizzas in this country is peppered with differing dough making, toppings and cooking methods. Unlike some other countries, pizzas in the U.S. […]

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Traditional American Pizza Styles: States of Play

Explaining what an American style pizza is to anyone is like showing them a what an American looks like. The breadth and depth of diversity of pizzas in this country is peppered with differing dough making, toppings and cooking methods. Unlike some other countries, pizzas in the U.S. are not regionally bound to mimic centuries of pizza making in that range or region. To find the spine of pizza making in the United States, we must look to our culinary past, which relies upon the tools and techniques of Europe but then accommodates the wide and productive American landscape and the diverse culinary desires and tastes of this diverse populace.

“At its core, American pizza is one that favors the present over the past and it follows customers, not custom. It’s not even a style, it’s a refusal to adhere to one specific style because it’s always evolving.”

Scott Wiener, Founder, Scotts Pizza Tours, and Slice Out Hunger

Phat of the Land

The United States has always been known as the “land of milk and honey.” Our shared history of domination, immigration and integration has always relied upon the commoditization of foods. The first pilgrims tilled the fertile soils producing plenty of traditional foodstuffs but did not mimic the native American use of the ebb and flow of the seasons and use of wild foods. The coastal tribes’ practice of putting up food stores of corn and smoked fish and meat for the winter sustained them but the pilgrims’ disdain for native practices lead to starvation in the first years. In fact, at Plymouth alone, half of the pilgrims were dead before the first winter was over.

Stat-chew of Liberty 

The first fact to know about American cuisine is that compared to European countries, we are culinarily, very young. Mass starvation and poverty through wars and upheaval in Europe has necessitated specific techniques, methods and creative twists in food. This innovation seems to be missing in historic American cooking practices. Our largesse of meat, fish and vegetables mirrored the huge fertile landscape of this country. This is reflected in the number of toppings on an American pizza. More cheese, meat and dough tend to satisfy U.S. customers. The arrival of soldiers who served in Italy in the 40s brought a new craving for Italian food and started the ball rolling for the different styling of American Pizza. The past 20 years have seen many chefs practicing traditional European pizza making in the United States and have upped American culinary mojo with pizza schools, demonstrations, media and social media putting this finesse on the fast track. This has also led to more innovative sauces, meats, cheeses and grains.

American Pie

There are many factors that have influenced American style pizzas. Corporations, regions, cheese, flour and meat companies, supply and even individual pizza chefs have had a hand in making some traditional American pizzas popular.  Here are some variations of American pizzas that you may, or may not, not be familiar with. I’ve kept individual names out to protect the innocent.

New England Beach Pizza

This Pizza made only in Southern New Hampshire and Northern Massachusetts is both simple and different. The crust is wafer thin, cooked on seasoned sheet pans and you can get a single slice or a box of 8 or 20 squares. Other toppings are available to pair with a very sweet sauce and just a smattering of aged provolone. Two pizza places dominate this market and are rivals which is why I will not disclose their names.

Milwaukee Pizza

This cracker thin pizza originated at the Caradaro Club and has evolved into several micro-styles depending upon the place you go to. It is sheeted round or oblong, some with a cornmeal dusting and each tavern-style cut is crunchy like crazy. Some pizzas are as thin as two credit cards. In some places, this crisp thinness is achieved by par-baking the crust in deck ovens then turning it over before saucing and cheesing, others go straight on the deck. The sauce is simple, sweet, and placed as just a thin layer of whole milk mozzarella.

Quad-City Pizza

This Mississippi River Valley style is prepared in Davenport and Bettendorf Iowa, Rock Island, Moline, and East Moline Illinois. This pizza is made with malt and hand-stretched to a thin crust with a slight cornicione, or crust. Chili flakes and ground cayenne makes the thin tomato sauce zing with spice. It is usually loaded with fennel sausage. Pizzas are available in 16-inch and 10-inch styles and cut into strips as opposed to slices or squares.

Detroit Pizza

This rectangular pizza baked in a seasoned blue steel pan that was initially said to be used in the automobile business for draining oil or catching grease. This focaccia-like pizza with small cell structure is usually par-baked with Wisconsin brick cheese baked in a “Frico” or bark around the side. Cheese and toppings lie under the sauce which is put on after the final bake. Many different variations now dominate the market.

Colorado Pizza

These small 8-inch round pizzas have a braided crust with added honey in the dough. A major heaping of whole milk mozzarella tops the extra-sweet sauce, and the braided crust ensures that the boatload of toppings doesn’t fall off. Colorado style has been described as like Chicago deep dish but sweeter with a cooking time that is shorter. This pizza is sold by the pound and is accompanied by more honey.

California Pizza

This pizza tends to lack a particular crust, size, style or even bake. The similarities of this pizza lie in the dissimilar nature of them. They all tend to lean on seasonality, international flavor profiles, freshness and artisanal ingredients that Spago, Gjelina, Hail Mary, Tony’s, Tandoori, Mozza, Pot Pizza, California Pizza Kitchen all have made available to Californians.

Altoona Pizza

Originally made at the Altoona Hotel before it was burnt down in 2013. Other pizza shops have taken up the mantle. This is usually a square-cut, sheet pan baked, thick Sicilian style crust with a soft feel. It was originally topped with Velveeta over deli salami and green peppers but now most places place the salami and pepper slice under processed American cheese. Other toppings can be added.

Ohio Valley Pizza

This pizza is made in the northeastern Ohio Valley around Steubenville, Ohio and Wheeling West Virginia. It is best described as a square pie with a bready crust, sweet sauce baked at 550 F and garnished with sauce made of green bell peppers, oregano and olive oil. This pizza is par-baked and taken out before topping with more sauce and a small amount of cheese. After the final baking, the pizza is topped with shredded provolone cheese and cold toppings and cut into squares.

Philly Tomato Pie

This square pizza is usually compared to the Sicilian Sfincione because of its thick, focaccia-like crust. It is also called a “Bakery Pizza” in nearby Rhode Island. Most of this style has just a smattering of Romano after the bake. The thick sauce is just as high as the crust and is cooked for over 40 minutes with sugar, oregano, garlic salt and olive oil.

Midwest Pizza Dough Recipe

Here is a dough recipe which, to me best reflects the middle ground in middle America. I’ve left this recipe at 66% hydration. Strong enough to hold sauce, cheese and toppings and flavorful enough after proofing to enable a digestible crust. Mixing it with cold water (and using less yeast) followed by cold fermentation slows the yeast activity down, giving the starches in the flour time to convert to simple sugars releasing fantastic flavors. This recipe is designed to be used within 6 hours if using warmer water, and up to 3 days using the cold holding method.

Get the Midwest Pizza Dough Recipe.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Unconventional Pizza Toppings: Beginner’s Guide https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/unconventional-pizza-toppings-beginners-guide/ Tue, 16 Jan 2024 15:42:49 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146855 Serhan Ayhan shares his approach to unconventional pizza toppings There’s no denying that the classics like pepperoni, mushroom, and sausage are tried and true. But earlier this year, New York Times Cooking called Brooklyn’s Cuts & Slices oxtail pie “New York’s Most Exciting Pizza”, and lines have been out the door. Featuring unique pizzas on […]

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Serhan Ayhan shares his approach to unconventional pizza toppings

There’s no denying that the classics like pepperoni, mushroom, and sausage are tried and true. But earlier this year, New York Times Cooking called Brooklyn’s Cuts & Slices oxtail pie “New York’s Most Exciting Pizza”, and lines have been out the door. Featuring unique pizzas on your menu can turn heads – and customers into your shop. Here are a few roadmaps for unconventional toppings to get you started.

Bet The Farm

Celery Root Pizza

Celery Root Pizza — Photo by Serhan Ayhan

One place where I frequently discover new ingredients is at our local farmer’s market. If you have access to one, challenge yourself and pick out a fruit or vegetable or other ingredient that you have never seen or heard of and start connecting the dots to other ingredients.

An invaluable tool to make these connections is The Flavor Bible by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page. The first time I encountered celery root, I did not have a CLUE what to do with it. Referencing The Flavor Bible for celery root, Gruyère (a nutty cheese) is noted as a flavorful pairing. From there, I flipped to the section for Gruyère pairings, with ham being one recommendation. While we did not have ham, we had a pancetta that complemented the Gruyère with its savory, salty, and slightly smoky flavor. The pancetta, in turn, reminded me of maple bacon, which led to the incorporation of a spicy maple syrup. Before I knew it, a beautiful and unique pizza with complex flavors was born.

Walk Down Memory Lane

Hawaiian Furikake Bar Pie

Hawaiian Furikake Bar Pie — Photo by Serhan Ayhan

Not every creative pizza needs a farm to table approach. Sometimes foods like a favorite childhood snack can revisit us in the form of a pizza. Think about bites that you or others grew up with that are remembered dearly. Is there a creative and tasteful (pun intended) way to make them work on a pizza?

Earlier this year, I was thinking about how despite its name and ham & pineapple toppings, Hawaiian pizza’s origins are not from the islands. This got me wondering – how could I put a true Hawaiian twist to this pizza? I hit the web to conduct my due diligence on nostalgic Hawaiian snacks and learned about furikake Chex Mix, a popular island treat that incorporates a buttery soy sauce glaze and furikake seasoning into Chex Cereal. I topped the snack onto a Hawaiian pizza on a bar style crust, and sure enough, it was a hit – I even had pineapple haters complimenting! Chex Cereal also shared it on their socials!

Tap into the Collective Consciousness

When I get stuck in a creative rut and the well of ideas run dry, I look to others for inspiration.

One day I was walking in our neighborhood and saw some stunning in-season tangerines, and just knew that I had to think of a way to showcase them on a pizza.

Tangerine Pizza

Tangerine Pizza. Photo by Serhan Ayhan

When I got home, I hit the web for recipes using citrus and came across Claire Saffitz’s blood orange olive oil cake and was astonished at how she beautifully incorporated the oranges. It looked wonderful – but I wasn’t making a cake! I went through my cookbooks and found Chris Bianco’s lemon and red onion focaccia. Taking the visual cues from Claire’s cake and the execution cues from Chris’s focaccia, I created something uniquely my own: an alluring round pan pizza with thinly sliced tangerines, red onion, mozzarella, fontina, pecorino Romano, and mint.

These are but a few roadmaps to lead you to your new and creative pizzas. Deconstruct an existing dish. Look to other people and cultures. Step out of your comfort zone and don’t be afraid to try a few new things when figuring out what resonates with your customers.

Serhan Ayhan is the pizza maker of Next Level Pizza in New York, focusing on pizza pop-ups, private events, and consulting.

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Hottest of Hot Pizza Topping Trends 2024 https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/hottest-of-hot-pizza-topping-trends-2024/ Tue, 02 Jan 2024 20:02:43 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146803 New Pizza toppings to add right now So, what are the big pizza topping trends you will see this year? If you know me, you know I love analyzing and talking trends and industry change and evolution. For the past decade, it has been my mission to be able to look for what’s next. It […]

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New Pizza toppings to add right now

So, what are the big pizza topping trends you will see this year? If you know me, you know I love analyzing and talking trends and industry change and evolution. For the past decade, it has been my mission to be able to look for what’s next. It keeps me on the pulse of the pizza industry, as well as pizza enthusiasts.

Pizza toppings are a tough predictor as what’s hot can change quickly. That is why I, first, want to share with you some of the insights from our 2024 Pizza Industry Trends Report. The toppings represented here are not from me. Instead, they are responses from 750 pizzeria operators from across the U.S., who participated in our annual industry survey. While we’re looking at pizza topping trends here, you can go to the 2024 Pizza Industry Trends Report to get a deeper dive into toppings including the Top 20 Pizza Toppings. You can even find a list of toppings that operators are removing from menus. Now let’s get into the fun stuff. 

Hot Pizza Toppings to Watch

We asked operators what pizza toppings they have introduced in the past 12 months to get a gauge on what’s hot with pizza toppings.

We found toppings that are new to pizzeria menus include:

  • Going with a different pepperoni style like cup and char or old world
  • Vegan meat and cheese alternatives
  • Sweet and hot pepper varieties, including jalapeños, cherry peppers, and pasilla peppers
  • Mexican-inspired meats like Birria, chorizo and carne asada, BBQ pork, chicken and brisket

You can check out more hot pizza toppings in the report.

Cheese Please! 

Cheeses were all over the fill-in responses for topping additions. The biggest take away from cheeses is the trend towards blending cheeses. A few cheeses to add to your R&D are ricotta and goat cheese. Play with the whipped versions, too.

Also, it’s time to nail down the right vegan cheese for your pizza. There are a ton on the market, or you can try to make your own. Addtionally, Scamorza and fresh mozzarella are finding their way into more pizzerias around the country.

Pizza Toppings on the Horizon

In our survey, we wanted to know what toppings are in research and development. This year, the creativity in pizza kitchens is high. Here are some common themes among operators who are experimenting with pizza toppings at their shops:

• Find the right plant-based toppings. Pizzerias are looking for the best plant-based products that work for their vegan and meat- and dairy-free customers.

• Play with unique and creative toppings. While some may be seasonal, unique pizza toppings are finding their way onto menus, from more exotic mushrooms like shiitake to persimmons, waffles and even octopus. Others include smoked Kalamata olives, sweet drop peppers, curry sauce, lemons and pecans.

• Look to International flavors. Mexican, Cuban, Indian and other Asian specialties inspired pizzas are wowing culinary explorers at pizzerias.

These are just a few of the inspirations behind new topping choices. More ideas are in the report.

Denise’s Picks — 2024 Hot Pizza Topping Trend 

This wouldn’t be a trends feature without me sharing what I see coming as hot pizza topping trends. Some of these toppings appear in our report. But others are toppings I’ve been tracking and noticing spikes as they are featured on more menus. In no particular order, they are: 

Cup-and-char sausage

Many have never heard of this version of cup-and-char meat, but a major industry player rolled out its product last year. Will it get as much love as its cousin, the roni cup? That will be determined by pizza lovers. I’m excited to see how this one develops.

Birria

You can thank TikTok for the rise of this braised Mexican beef. Creators have had viewers drooling over Birria slo-mo shorts. While goat and lamb are traditionally used, many versions use tender beef, various dried chili peppers, tomatoes, garlic, onion, spices and apple cider vinegar to create a broth that you are going to want to offer as a dipping sauce. 

Unique Pesto

The basil-based sauce has been rejuvenated by a new generation and they are not sticking to tradition. Instead, they are gravitating towards a new field of ingredients — nuts like pistachio and oils like avocado and grapeseed, even changing up the classic basil with other herbs. Don’t know where to start? Check out Audrey Kelly’s pesto story.   

Corn

We alluded to it over the summer that corn is having a moment and it’s not finished. With Southwest and Mexican style pizza popularity rising, this ingredient will find its uses across the menu. Give an elote corn pizza a try! 

Smoked Salmon

Now hear me out, this cured fish has its place on pizza. Creative culinary minds are proving that. Last year, cream cheese hit the mainstream on pizza and here is its perfect pairing. Use the fully cooked salmon as a finishing ingredient and pair it with arugula, cream cheese, chives and lemon. Go crazy and add avocado. That’s another ingredient I am watching closely.

Mortadella

This classic Italian cured meat is going through a resurgence and we’re here for it. Try mortadella post-baked with arugula, stracciatella cheese and pistachios.

Maybe you’ll find your next hot pizza topping after reading this. Maybe it will inspire you to find another ingredient that your customers will love. Either way, introducing new toppings will create excitement with your customers and your team. Let us know what you come up with.

DENISE GREER is Executive Editor of Pizza Today.

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What do you do with Canned Vegetables? https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/what-do-you-do-with-canned-vegetables/ Thu, 21 Dec 2023 19:34:08 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146783 Canned Veggie to Pizza Topping Star Writing this article brought me back to the R&D days of Wholly Stromboli. I had many pie-in-the-sky ideas about which products I would and would not use in my restaurant. Settling for canned roasted red peppers, peeled garlic in a plastic jug, and pickled jalapeño, for convenience’s sake, were […]

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Canned Veggie to Pizza Topping Star

Writing this article brought me back to the R&D days of Wholly Stromboli. I had many pie-in-the-sky ideas about which products I would and would not use in my restaurant. Settling for canned roasted red peppers, peeled garlic in a plastic jug, and pickled jalapeño, for convenience’s sake, were options that I initially did not want to consider. Because I prided myself on using only the freshest ingredients and loved the flavor and aroma of a fresh clove of garlic or the taste and texture of fresh roasted red peppers, I was going to figure out the labor and efficiency piece. I am sure you know how that worked out. Of course, I buy whole peeled garlic in a plastic jug, canned roasted red pepper, and as for the jalapeños …  I only switched to fresh sliced jalapeños about a year ago.

My point is if you plan to do any amount of volume in your restaurant, you’re probably going to have to plan on using canned veggies, and while I consider some canned veggies like sliced Spanish olives and pickled jalapeño a commodity, other things like artichoke hearts, fire-roasted green chilies, roasted red peppers and especially tomatoes can vary in taste, texture and quality.

How much to spend should be driven by your price point and your target food cost. For what I consider commodity canned goods, my main focus is the consistency of the product and pricing. However, when we’re talking about canned tomatoes, I pull out all the stops! I only use the best. I want a tomato that is packed fresh from the field, not subjected to excess heat during the canning process, and does not contain any preservatives.

Fire-roasted green chilies are one of my favorite ingredients to use in soups, ‘bolis and pizzas. We are pretty spoiled here in Colorado because we have some of the best fire-roasted Hatch green chilies around. One of my favorite fall traditions is going to pick up a bushel of fresh fire-roasted chilies, but hand peeling and dicing bushels of them is not practical and the labor cost does not make good financial sense for my operation.

When looking for a canned Hatch green chili, I want moderate heat and minimal residual skins, seeds, stems or crowns. There are different levels of quality, and you will find less of that waste material in a higher-quality product. A note about diced Hatch green chilies: they are a potentially hazardous product and must be handled properly according to HACCP guidelines for storage. Therefore, they must be stored below any ready-to-eat foods. When storing them, I prefer to drain off some of the natural juices, only retaining enough to keep them from drying out. I prep them into the containers that we use on the line and use a perforated scoop to portion them for use in recipes.

I prefer artichoke hearts canned in their natural juices instead of a marinade. Not that I don’t like the taste of the marinade, but I use artichokes in a variety of salads, pasta dishes, pizzas and stromboli, and the marinade will overpower the other flavors. I prefer to store these in their juices, enough to cover them. They tend to be in large pieces, so I cut them in half.

I find there is a balance between retaining some of the natural juices of canned vegetables and draining them completely. On one hand, storing them on your makeline with the juices intact will preserve the quality and prevent them from drying out. On the other hand, too much juice will make for a soggy pizza or stromboli and add unwanted flavors to your pasta dishes. My preferred method is to store these ingredients on the line, with enough juice to cover the ingredients. I prefer to use a perforated portion cup or scoop so that the juice can be drained off at the time of use. I don’t find it necessary to rinse most vegetables, however, if I am using beans in a salad, I do prefer to rinse them before use.

Canned vegetables are convenient to use, easy to store, have a long shelf life, and are generally safe because the heat during the canning process kills most bacteria. That being said, it is important to handle canned goods properly to ensure the safety of your guests.

Here are a few tips for safely handling canned goods. Cans should be inspected during the receiving process. Significantly dented cans, especially if the dents are located on a seam whether it be along the lid, bottom or on the side seam should be separated from the rest of your inventory and labeled for return to your distributor. If you drop a can and cause the dent yourself, open the can immediately, place the contents in another container, and put the product into rotation. Ensure that your can opener blade is clean, sharp and in good working condition. Dirty blades can potentially contaminate food products with deadly bacteria, and dull blades can cause injuries. Partially attached lids are dangerous and can cause nasty injuries to your team. Do not store ingredients in opened cans. Place them in an NSF-approved container with a day dot as directed by your local health department guidelines.

While you may not think of canned corn as a typical ingredient in a pizzeria, corn is a creative way to bring some diversity to your menu. Take your basic green salad, add canned corn, grilled chicken, avocado, jalapeño rings and tomato for a fun southwestern salad. Zip up your ranch dressing by adding diced, canned jalapeño or green chilies and Buffalo sauce.

Elote corn or Mexican Street Corn is a dish that is typically made with roasted corn stripped from the Cobb, blended with mayonnaise, crema, Cotija cheese, and a chili lime seasoning. My version of Mexican street corn pizza is a creative spin on the popular dish. I make a white pizza, using cream cheese blended with diced, canned green chilies as the base and mozzarella cheese, drained canned corn tossed in lime juice, cayenne pepper, cumin, granulated garlic and chili powder, add grilled chicken, and jalapeño rings, and bake. Top with the seasoned corn and drizzle with a dressing made from a mixture of crema and mayonnaise and dress with fresh cilantro.

Summed up, canned veggies add efficiency and convenience to our operations, but why not have a little fun with them as well?

MELISSA RICKMAN is co-founder of Wholly Stromboli in Fort Lupton, Colorado, and member of the World Pizza Champions.

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The versatile Pesto sauce can be used as topping, base, marinade, dressing https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/the-versatile-pesto-sauce-can-be-used-as-topping-base-marinade-dressing/ Thu, 21 Dec 2023 18:45:52 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146781 Magical Pesto Pesto is one of those magic pizza toppings that can turn the most basic pie into something really special. The classic recipe is comprised of just a few ingredients but there’s no limit to putting your own unique spin on it. While most people associate pesto with the basil and garlic heavy version, […]

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Magical Pesto

Pesto is one of those magic pizza toppings that can turn the most basic pie into something really special. The classic recipe is comprised of just a few ingredients but there’s no limit to putting your own unique spin on it.

While most people associate pesto with the basil and garlic heavy version, there are quite a few traditional variations depending on what region of Italy you are in. The celebrated, and extremely delicious, pesto that is comprised of pine nuts, basil, garlic, Parmigiana Reggiano, Pecorino and extra virgin olive oil originated in Genoa in the province of Liguria. To truly make this in the Genoese way, a mortar and pestle are required. In Calabria, pesto all Calabrese consists of roasted bell peppers, garlic, black pepper, basil, cheese and olive oil. Sicily’s version is very similar but with the addition of tomatoes. Other countries have their takes on pesto such as in France you have Pistou, which is a combination of basil, parsley, crushed garlic and grated cheese. Spain makes Romesco, which is a red paste of Romesco chili peppers blended with tomatoes, sweet red peppers, pine nuts, garlic and olive oil.

Six Components to Pesto

Regardless of what type you are making, there are six components to any pesto:

Greens and herbs: Basil is the most common, but you can add or sub anything from cilantro to arugula to kale and even throw in some chives or mint. Of course, you can add other vegetables and fruits that aren’t green such as tomatoes and bell peppers.

Cheese: Traditionally aged, hard cheeses like Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano are used as they have a sharp, salty flavor. But you can also use other cheeses such as Cotija, Manchego or aged Cheddar. If you want to do a vegan version there are a lot of nut cheeses out there or you can forgo the cheese entirely and add in a squeeze of lemon and an extra pinch of salt to balance it out.

Nuts or seeds: There are so many options when it comes to this component. Pine nuts are delicious but they are very pricey so a few other great options are walnuts, cashews, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds and pistachios. You can enhance the flavor by toasting the nuts or seeds before adding them to the pesto.

Oil: I’m a purest when it comes to oil and almost always lean towards a good quality extra virgin olive oil. That’s not to say there aren’t other great oils out there and each has its own use.

Garlic: This is a big one and a very distinct flavor of pesto. That’s not to say you can’t substitute it for another plant in the Allium family. Spring garlic, leeks, green onions and chives will make for an interesting pesto depending on what you pair it with.

Salt and other seasonings: As with every other pizza or dish you make, the correct salt is essential. If you’re using a saltier cheese, you won’t need very much, if any at all, but don’t forget to taste the finished product.

Non-Traditional Pesto Ideas

After you’ve made your ideal pesto it’s time to put it on a pizza. Pesto is one of those toppings that go great with both veggies and meat. You can add it separately onto the pizza or use it as a marinade for other toppings such as chicken, pork, onions, kale or even a white fish or shrimp. Here are a few ideas to get you started

  • Sun-dried tomato pesto with artichoke hearts, feta, Kalamata olives and red onion.
  • Sunflower seed and lemon basil pesto with roasted fennel, Italian sausage and sweet onion.
  • Arugula pesto with anchovies, thinly sliced lemon and breadcrumbs
  • Cilantro pumpkin seed pesto with poblano chilies, Cotija, delicate squash and leeks.
  • Roasted red pepper pesto with eggplant, zucchini and sweet onions.
  • Pistachio pesto with mortadella and burrata.

The application of pesto is an essential part of the pizza — how and when you add it to your pie. If you put it on pre-bake you can either use it as the base of the pizza, use a squeeze bottle or pastry bag to drizzle it on or dollop it on top with a spoon. If you use it as the sauce on the base, I would recommend making the pesto itself thinner by adding more oil or even a bit of water so it’s easier to spread. The other option is to add the pesto post bake, which is my current favorite way. Putting the pesto on after it comes out of the oven is visually more appealing as it keeps its vibrant color. A squeeze bottle is also quicker and for the most part you get a better yield on the product.

Pesto is very versatile. Not only is it fantastic on pizza but it can and should be cross utilized throughout your menu. Don’t hesitate to make it into a side dish, think burrata with pesto and toasted focaccia. It can be thinned out into a dressing mixed with seasonal veggies or used as a pasta sauce option. You can marinate chicken or beef in it for toppings or something as simple as a dipping sauce.

Try this pesto pizza recipe.

Go Fish

This recipe features anchovies, Brussels sprouts, lemon and an arugula pesto.

Get the Go Fish Recipe.

Audrey Kelly owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado.

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On Deck: The Humble Onion https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/on-deck-the-humble-onion/ Tue, 28 Nov 2023 15:58:40 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146612 Get The Humble Onion Pizza Ideas When I was thinking of what to make next, I could not take my mind off onions. The most humble of all ingredients… always the bridesmaid, never the bride. Think about all the dishes that an onion is in to elevate that said dish. Think about how, as human […]

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Get The Humble Onion Pizza Ideas

Chris Decker, Founding Pizzaiolo & Partner Truly Pizza

Chris Decker, Founding Pizzaiolo & Partner Truly Pizza

When I was thinking of what to make next, I could not take my mind off onions. The most humble of all ingredients… always the bridesmaid, never the bride. Think about all the dishes that an onion is in to elevate that said dish. Think about how, as human beings, we are indeed like an onion where you must peel back our layers to get the real deal. Onions are used all over the world, in all types of cuisine. They are cheap, easy to cook with and readily available. What’s not to love?

I wanted to highlight this ingredient and use it in as many ways as possible. We could start with an onion cream sauce, talk caramelized onion, then sautéed leeks, then oven roasted shallot and cipollini, then scallion, then fried shallot for some crunch.  So many ways to get into this realm!

Here are some onion ideas to try out.

Caramelized Onion.

Peel and thinly slice 2 large yellow onions and place in a pan with a half stick of butter on a very low setting. Cook for up to two hours, stirring gently until the onions turn a beautiful golden brown. Make sure to keep an eye on them as they can go from beautiful to burnt pretty quickly with too much heat or too much time on the stove.

Sautéed Leeks.

Trim the white part of the leek away from the thicker green leaves. Thinly slice the white part and add to a pan on low heat with some good quality olive oil. Sauté for 10-15 on med/low heat, stirring as necessary not to burn. When leeks are translucent and soft, turn off heat and lightly season with salt and pepper.

Oven Roasted Shallot and Cipollini.

Cut the cipollini and shallot into quarters and toss in olive oil, add to a roasting sheet pan and cook in your pizza oven at desired temperature. I put a rack under my pan to prevent them from burning (we cook at 550-600 F).

• Fried Shallot.

Using a Mandolin thinnest setting, slice two or three shallots and toss in seasoned flour. Fry at 350 F until they turn a light brown. Drain on a paper towel and season with salt and pepper.

• Curly Scallion.

Trim the root end of the scallion and lay scallions flat on a cutting board. Using a sharp knife, slice lengthwise 4-5 times to create strips. Add all the strips to a bowl and cover with ice water. Within minutes, the scallion should begin to curl. Remove scallion from ice water and pat dry.

Use these ingredients on pizza or in dishes to elevate your menu!

Chris Decker is Founding Pizzaiolo & Partner at Truly Pizza in Dana Point, California. @everythingbutanchovies

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Wintertime Tomato Soups https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/wintertime-tomato-soups/ Mon, 27 Nov 2023 21:43:31 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146604 Add the coziness of tomato soup to your specials menu Nothing says warmth in the winter like a hot bowl of soup. The choices of cozy soups are endless. As a pizzeria, go with your strengths and that is the tomato. Not the fresh tomatoes you feature in the summertime, I’m talking about the amazing […]

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Add the coziness of tomato soup to your specials menu

Nothing says warmth in the winter like a hot bowl of soup. The choices of cozy soups are endless. As a pizzeria, go with your strengths and that is the tomato. Not the fresh tomatoes you feature in the summertime, I’m talking about the amazing canned tomatoes that you have meticulously hand selected to use for your killer pizza sauce. Let’s use those as a base for incredible tomato soups that you can highlight on your winter specials menu.

Why add soup? First, it is an easy, prep ahead option that can store for days. Secondly, think return visits. A delicious tomato soup with your house focaccia or hot ham and cheese sandwich could be just the thing to entice customers to return for a second time in a week. Third, it’s a great option to increase check averages. Train your team to share what goes into each house-made soup.

Before we get to delicious tomato soup recipes, let’s look at how to use the canned tomatoes. Did you know that for soup applications, canned is actually the preferred product to use over its fresh counterpart? Canned has a higher concentrated flavor and a lot less prep time. In an out-of-season application, canned is the better choice over fresh “hot house” tomatoes.

Canned tomatoes come in a few varieties. Test which works best for your soup — whether it’s crushed, diced, petite diced, pureed, whole peeled or stewed. Carefully look at the ingredients in the canned tomatoes. Is it unsalted or salted? Does it contain other ingredients like garlic, herbs or even sugars? All of these can impact your finished soup. Don’t drain your canned tomatoes. Cooks refer to the juice as liquid gold. Want an extra sweet tomato kick, try adding tomato paste. The concentrated paste offers an intensified tomato flavor.

3 Cozy Tomato Soups You Should Try

These recipes are starting points. Play around with ingredients and combinations to create a soup that is uniquely yours. One of my favorite change ups is swapping out some of the canned tomatoes and substituting canned fire-roasted tomatoes. Get creative and come up with a top seller. Here are three tomato based soup recipes:

  1. Tomato-Basil Bisque
  2. Tomato Soup Escoffier
  3. Minestrone

Take liberties with Minestrone. Just like its American counterpart (chili), cooks have created several versions of Minestrone. Try a Minestrone using what’s on your makeline.

DENISE GREER is Executive Editor of Pizza Today.

 

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Sweet & Spicy Pizzas: Hang Fire! https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/sweet-spicy-pizzas-hang-fire/ Mon, 27 Nov 2023 21:09:09 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146602 Spicy-sweet ingredients are the new bombshells of flavor. One of the most pivotal memories I’ve had with food was when I worked as a waiter at an exclusive French restaurant in Chicago. One day, as service was winding down, my fellow waiters raided the walk-in and were cutting watermelon and cucumbers they retrieved. They squeezed […]

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Spicy-sweet ingredients are the new bombshells of flavor.

One of the most pivotal memories I’ve had with food was when I worked as a waiter at an exclusive French restaurant in Chicago. One day, as service was winding down, my fellow waiters raided the walk-in and were cutting watermelon and cucumbers they retrieved. They squeezed lemon juice in the bowl and finished this weird combination with cayenne pepper and honey. We all jumped in and ate this concoction and from that first bite, I was hooked.  I felt the crispy grassiness and faint saltiness of the cucumber blanketed with the tart lemon, sweet honey and watermelon. It seemed perfect, then the cayenne hit me like a sucker punch to the back of my head. My eyes squinted followed by a trickle of forehead moisture. After a trepidatious second taste, I dove in again, and again, until it was gone. I had no idea what happened to my flavor appetite because I was averse to spicy heat but because of the sweetness, the heat turned into a flavor magnet for my mind. 

Spice Grinder

Sweet and spicy is so alluring because sweet ingredients reduce the sensitivity of heat sensors on the tongue creating a balanced flavor profile. Most complex and delicious pizza flavors result in a combination of tastes and textures. There are seven tastes — sweet, sour, salty, spicy, fat, bitter and umami. All of these can be combined in complimentary tastes and balancing tastes. Here is the difference between the two.

Complimentary tastes: These tastes accentuate one another to create harmony of taste. For example, sweet with fat, spicy and salty or sour with spicy.

Balancing tastes: These tastes oppose each other to create harmony. Some chefs call this a “foil,” or a contrasting flavor that prevents the heavier flavor from taking over a dish. An example of balancing tastes like spice can play down sweetness from becoming too sweet and spiciness can be mellowed out with fat and sweetness.

A perfect example of the combining flavors lies in the delicious ancient Chinese Sweet and Spicy Sesame Sauce. Complimentary flavors like red chilies keep a simple sugar sauce from being too cloying. This is combined with the balancing flavors of salty soy sauce and savory sesame paste.

Sweet Heat

Maple syrup works well on whole wheat pizzas and can be combined with a powdered spice like cayenne. The maple flavor is not too cloying and partners well with Feta, Gorgonzola, and Gruyere, as well as fresh mozzarella and walnuts. Classic examples of these syrup pairings are with blueberries and lemon, mascarpone and pistachio, caramel and pecan. Good protein pairings are pork belly, duck, bacon, ham and even foie gras. Because maple syrup is thick, it takes longer to macerate fresh-cut chilies for full flavor. Habaneros, Thai and Ancho pair well with maple syrup.

Honey is probably one of the most used sweet/spicy vehicles. Because honey is even thicker than maple syrup, it flows slower when presented on a pizza and mingles well with creamy mozzarella, Asiago, Manchego and even over stracciatella. Spicy honey is best used with berries, cream, almonds, oranges, figs, nuts, fontina cheese, mustard, pistachios and hazelnuts. Sometimes, honey will solidify due to the amount of glucose in the plants that the nectar-loving bees collect. This is remedied by immersing the glass jar in hot water.

Agave Nectar: This is a vegan alternative to hot honey but has a more neutral flavor and is thinner. It is sweeter than table sugar and doesn’t have the bitter aftertaste of some syrups which is why it works well with lemon and hot pepper flakes. I like the thickness and lusciousness of the dark agave nectar with sharp cheeses like Gorgonzola, aged Gouda, Monterey Jack, aged cheddars, and Pecorino Romano. Agave goes well with razor thin slices of Thai, Jalapeño, Serrano, and even Fatali peppers. Good with lime, almonds, cashews, salty pork, and charcuterie.

Getting Jalapeno Business

All types of chilies can be added to sweet sauces to macerate (flavor blend) into the hydration of the sauce if the chilies aren’t too large. This will facilitate the spread of flavor and spice instead of too-spicy “speed bumps” that ruin the flavor profile of any pizza. Some chilies’ powders are mixed with other flavors and labeled “chili powder blend,” or “chili seasoning mix.” Most chili powders are named after the name of the chili itself; others are named after the region where they are grown. Here are some chilies that could add power to your sweet condiments and flavor your pizzas.

Espelette pepper: This pepper was introduced into France in the 16th century and was used in medicine and for the conservation of meats. This chili powder has become a cornerstone condiment in the Northern Basque region, replacing black pepper. I love this spice because it is fruity, bright red and has a fresh smokiness without overpowering other pizza items. I use it in my blueberry duck balls with cumin and cherries and it adds a great red powder to the finish on burrata. (I used it on pizza recipe described at the end.)

Aleppo: This powder has moderate heat with fruitiness and the flavor of light cumin. This is a common condiment in the Mediterranean, Turkey, Syria and into Armenia and is named after the Silk Road spice city in Northern Syria. It is used for its perfumy sweetness like sun-dried tomatoes with an added kick of heat.

Ancho: The name of this powder is from dried poblano peppers that have been ground up. The saying is that Ancho is to Poblano what Chipotle is to Jalapeno. Ancho is hotter than regular chili powder but offers less heat and smokiness than chipotle powder. This pepper powder is famous for mole and chili seasoning. Other items shine with honey, barbeque, soups, mole, turkey, shrimp and pork. The great sweet and spicy vehicles for the Ancho powder are purees of mango, apple, pear, persimmon and orange.

Piri Piri: This hot pepper offers a blast of up to 175,000 Scoville units and is made from the dried Malgueta pepper. Originally cultivated by the colonial Portuguese in southern African territories and brought by them to other territories around the world. Piri Piri sauce has been described as “light, fresh, and herbal” by some chefs who can handle the heat. The bottled sauce is famous for its infusion of the chilies with garlic, citrus peel, onion, bay leaf, paprika, oregano and tarragon. Piri Piri is so hot that the infusion of sweetness as well as fatty meats works well. Bacon, ground pork and lamb as well as chicken with skin and braised fatty beef are nice combinations with sweetened Piri Piri.

Grilled Honey Lemon Chicken

Grilled Honey Lemon Chicken, pizza recipeThis pizza is a wonder to behold because it has the lusciousness of lemony ricotta with the sour Asiago and melting fresh mozzarella. The grilling introduces a charred flavor and texture to the melt and the addition of the spicy lemon honey adds so much depth and pairs well with the basil and crunch of the sweet yellow peppers.

Get the Grilled Honey Lemon Chicken Pizza recipe.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Man on the Street: Roman-style Pizza — Are We Finally Ready for Roman? https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-roman-style-pizza-are-we-finally-ready-for-roman/ Mon, 30 Oct 2023 15:35:15 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146535 Will Roman-style pizza be the 2024 pizza trend? Back in January 2012 I used this “Man on the Street” column to predict that Roman pizza would be the next big thing. I was wrong. At the time, I was wowed by the stunning square pizzas I saw at Pizza Expo or showcased at a few […]

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Will Roman-style pizza be the 2024 pizza trend?

Back in January 2012 I used this “Man on the Street” column to predict that Roman pizza would be the next big thing. I was wrong. At the time, I was wowed by the stunning square pizzas I saw at Pizza Expo or showcased at a few brave pizzerias across the U.S. It felt like the antithesis of the stereotypical greasy slice, something that would attract the adoration of both the quick lunch crowd and gourmands alike. But as I said, I was wrong. Rome didn’t conquer in 2012, but that’s because we weren’t ready for it. As we slide into 2024 I’m digging up my prediction, dusting it off, and reconsidering the style.

I should clarify which Roman pizza I’m talking about. There are a few styles that have become associated with the city, but I’m only referring to a relatively new version. Pizza Tonda Romana is the kind of pizza you’ll find in a restaurant. It’s thin, round and flat on the edge. It looks like someone deflated a Neapolitan pizza and ironed the edges. This style isn’t seeing a rise in popularity right now. Then there’s Pizza al Metro, a long thin crispy pizza often sold in bakeries or pizza counters. It’s often sold by weight and folded into a piece of wax paper to be eaten while walking. We’re not dealing with this one either. And then there’s a curiosity called Pinsa, with a dough made from a mix of wheat flour, soy flour and rice flour. Not this one either.

The Roman Pizza on trend right now is the thick, puffy version of Pizza Al Taglio (pizza by the cut) made popular by Gabrielle Bonci when he opened Pizzarium in Rome in 2003. Unlike the Roman pizzas that came before, this version has a much higher hydration dough (at least 80 percent) with a long, cold fermentation process, and often gets topped post-bake. It’s impressive because, when done well, it’s much lighter than it looks. The texture is delicately crisp on the outside yet soft and airy on the inside. To the Instagram generation (which didn’t exist when I wrote my first Roman pizza column) it’s a visual stunner both because of its toppings and sprawling interior bubbles.

If it’s so good, why has Roman pizza taken this long to catch on in America? First we should consider that this style comes with a high level of difficulty. Roman requires techniques and ingredients different from what most American pizzerias are using. You’ll need strong flour that can hold a lot of water and a mixer that can achieve a high enough speed to incorporate and knead the ingredients. Most bakers use electric ovens and baking pans specifically made for Roman. Roman is complex enough that several schools and courses have emerged to teach the necessary techniques.

It doesn’t hurt that Roman pizza has been featured on popular TV shows like Bonci’s episode of Chef’s Table and Rob Cervoni’s win on Chopped. There’s even a Roman category at American pizza competitions. But is this really enough to resonate with the American public?

Part of me is still skeptical about Roman’s ability to become as big a trend as Neapolitan or Detroit style. It’s attractive to dough nerds and tinkerers, but might be too complex for the average pizza maker. Most of the attention being paid to it is coming from the pizza industry, not necessarily from the consumer. It’s more expensive than most other styles, especially if topped with high-end ingredients. Several Roman pizzerias have closed since my original prediction. It’s fantastic and I love it, but I’m not as convinced as I was of its broad appeal as I was 12 years ago.

Are we finally ready to accept Roman pizza al taglio into the Pantheon of American pizza? Only time will tell. I’ll probably write about it again in 2036.   

SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org  Instagram: @scottspizzatours

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Wine and Pizza Pairings: Wine O’Clock https://pizzatoday.com/topics/wine-and-pizza-pairings-wine-oclock/ Mon, 30 Oct 2023 13:56:31 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146522 Wine sales may have flattened, but now is a great time to push wine and pizza pairings In August 2022, National Geographic in the United Kingdom published an article about how vintners in Italy were reclaiming the centuries-old traditions of connecting with the land to produce extraordinary wines. As frequent eruptions from Mt. Vesuvius have […]

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Wine sales may have flattened, but now is a great time to push wine and pizza pairings

In August 2022, National Geographic in the United Kingdom published an article about how vintners in Italy were reclaiming the centuries-old traditions of connecting with the land to produce extraordinary wines. As frequent eruptions from Mt. Vesuvius have lined the fertile grounds of the Amalfi Coast with wine friendly minerals, those who grow grapes for the purpose of winemaking are enthusiastically reconnecting with the past to celebrate the heritage, as well as the future, of wine.

In the United States, as the popularity of craft beer exploded and bourbon-based cocktails came en vogue, wine’s market share dipped. Those in the wine industry are voicing optimism as we head into 2024, however. A report published by Wine Industry Advisor earlier this year indicated the beverage experienced a 2.3 percent increase of on-premise sales in 2022.

On-premise is the sweet spot for wine. As put by the Wine Industry Advisor article: “Wine’s popularity continues to be affiliated with food-led occasions.” As such, the types of wine in demand by American consumers appears to be affected by the types of dining establishments to which the masses flock. Fine dining has suffered since the pandemic. The openings of fine-dining establishments are down, which means traditional red wines that count on these diners have suffered. Table wines lost 4.2 percent of market share in 2022, according to the aforementioned article. Meanwhile, sparkling wine is more popular than ever in the United States. Sales are expected to grow 15 percent in volume by 2026, according to Wine Intelligence.

White wine is poised for strong growth as well. According to Data Intelligence, the global white wine market reached $39.4 billion in 2022. That number is expected to hit $59.1 billion by 2030. The segment enjoys a compound annual growth rate over five percent.

Will overall wine sales continue to decline in a flattened market, or is a resurgence on the horizon? It seems that question has been top of mind for many, and the wine industry is making a push to ensure its products stay in the limelight as diners continue to evolve with their preferences.

Enter Barbera — an Italian wine that many sommeliers cite as the most ideal for pairing with pizza. Its high acidity stands up well to tomato sauce. Its mild, fruity flavor — plus low-tannin quality — is appealing to consumers. So much so that much of northen Italy considers this accessible vino to be an “every day” wine. Yet, while it is hailed for its versatility and ideal for pizza, Berbera’s popularity has been on a long decline.

That may be indicative of the ever-evolving landscape in which we live. As consumers shift their tastes, the wine industry — steeped in tradition and perhaps slower to adapt to change — is learning how to respond to the new normal.

Nonetheless, wine has always been an integral part of the pizza industry. No doubt it has suffered with the heightened emphasis on delivery and carryout post-pandemic, but for dine-in pizza consumers, wine remains a staple of the experience for many. The key is to carry the right wines and market them to customers. Well-done tabletop signage and a push from servers is often all it takes. Mentioning “specials” and/or how wine XYZ “goes so well” with the Margherita or the white pie can drive traffic. Consumers enjoy hearing about pairings, and the storytelling component to wine is a great driver that allows your servers to display a knowledge that customers find entertaining.

In your next server training meeting, consider having one of your wine sales reps conduct an educational pour and pairing session. These are enjoyable and provide a nice break from the typical staff meeting.

Lastly, as we head into the holidays, wine sales tend to peak. Christmas and New Year’s are huge for the wine industry. And that presents an opportunity for pizzeria owners to offer holiday pairings designed to boost check averages. Get to work with your distributors and kitchen crew now to roll out some holiday pairings.

Since white wines are top of mind to many of your diners at the moment, now’s a good time to roll out a “White Christmas” holiday special. Bundle a white pizza of your choice with a bottle or glasses of white wine recommended by your most trusted wine rep at a price that works for you and the customer.

Need a little help with the white pie? Here’s a Pizza Today favorite to get you started.

White Pie with Speck

Get the White Pie with Speck recipe.

Jeremy White is the Editor in Chief for Pizza Today.

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Pizza Combinations: The Main Ingredient https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/pizza-combinations-the-main-ingredient/ Mon, 30 Oct 2023 13:38:14 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146521 Creating a new pizza centers on creativity and balance Whether you are a full-service pizzeria or a small slice shop, getting creative with your toppings and combinations is a great way to keep your regulars coming back, bring in new customers and shake things up a bit. When I’m making a new pizza, I usually […]

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Creating a new pizza centers on creativity and balance

Whether you are a full-service pizzeria or a small slice shop, getting creative with your toppings and combinations is a great way to keep your regulars coming back, bring in new customers and shake things up a bit.

When I’m making a new pizza, I usually start with one specific item that I want to center the pie around. After I decide what that is, I go over its flavor profile in my mind and think about what it could be paired with, how different preparations will change the flavor and texture and how it can be optimized. Above all, the most important thing is an overall balance of the topping combinations. If I choose something that is salty, I want to smooth it out with something that adds creaminess or a hint of sweet. All of these principals can and should be applied to all ingredients whether they are meat, vegetables or sauces.

To me, having different textural elements (crunchy, chewy and creamy) on a pizza is a significant aspect of building a great pie. With this in mind, there are two ways to go about creating a fantastic pizza special — using singularly unique ingredients or preparing common ingredients in an interesting way.

The first can be something as simple as using a standout seasonal vegetable: heirloom tomatoes in the summer, delicata squash in the fall, root veggies in the winter or garlic ramps in the springs. On the other hand, you can use ingredients that are unique to where you are: Spam in Hawaii, lobster in Maine, Hatch green chile in New Mexico, or cheese curds in Wisconsin.

My favorite items to add onto pizzas have big flavor. By that I mean that they bring a good amount of heat, salt, acid or more rarely for me, sweetness. If cornered, I would probably say that my absolute favorite pizza topping is roasted jalapeños and there are a fair amount of these gracing my menu at any given time. I love their bold intensity, the slight smoke it gives off and the fact that you can pair it with everything from juicy sweets, like fresh peaches, to tart pickled cauliflower or salty meats.

When I was at Pizza Expo this year, I made pizzas alongside Lee Hunzinger. He had made a pepperoni jam so good it haunted me. I kept thinking about it, dreaming about it. So, of course I needed to make my own version. I decided to center it around the Calabrese salami that we use at my shop. Naturally I added in roasted jalapeños then reduced it with a local Colorado beer to give it a depth of flavor. Once I had what I was looking for, I thought about what would balance out the assertiveness of the jam. To temper the heat from the jalapeños I made a base of whole milk mozzarella and ricotta cheeses. Since there was no fruit in the jam, I finished it with fresh blackberries and added crunch with fresh arugula and toasted pumpkin seeds.

Now onto preparation. Certain pizza toppings are no brainers when it comes to preparation while others require more time and thought. That being said, you can turn the most common ingredient into the highlight of any pizza. Depending on what equipment you have at your shop, there are multiple ways to bring out flavors and textures in produce. Whether you roast, fry, sauté, blanch, pickle, blend or just leave veggies raw will determine how they taste and feel in your mouth and how they work with other toppings.

You can turn an unassuming leek into the star of the show with different cooking techniques. Roasting it creates an almost creamy flavor. Dusting it in flour, frying it and sprinkling on sea salt makes it the perfect crunchy finisher and pickling it will add a hit of crunch and acid. Even spinach has multiple ways that it can be prepared: piled high as the base of the pie and baked into the cheese, added post-oven for a crunchy element or blanched and then pureed with cheese for a creamy sauce.

Meat is also transformed by how you cook it and when you add it to your pizza. Take cured meats. I am usually partial to adding them post bake since the beauty of a cured meat is slicing it thin and letting it melt in your mouth. There are instances where that rule can be broken. If you have the ends of prosciutto to use up feel free to put it on pre-bake and watch it transform into salty meat croutons. Sausage, on the other hand, can taste different just by its form. If you cook it off as a link and then slice it, the taste will be texturally different than pinching it raw from bulk straight onto the pizza. Other meats, like chicken, beef or pork can be marinated, braised, grilled or roasted to add dramatic flavors to your pies.

The main component of a pizza can also be the sauce. It’s actually one of my favorite items to create. One of our most popular pies is an Amatriciana pizza. I created a sauce that was my take on the classic Italian amatriciana pasta sauce, then topped it with bacon, sweet onions and finished it with a chili oil. Not very traditional but it makes an impression and works well as a cohesive pizza. Pestos are another great way to bring out bold flavors and add color. They turn a basic roasted vegetable pizza or standard pepperoni into something spectacular. Where you put the sauce will determine how your customers taste it. If it’s on top, then it will be the first flavor that hits your tongue as opposed to under the cheese where it is a bit more disguised and blends well with the fatty creaminess of your chosen dairy.

As you can see, there are endless combinations of creative pizza toppings. Once you’ve decided on your main ingredient, what you pair it with is just a matter of balancing it out.

Audrey Kelly owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado.

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Hot Fried Appetizers Go Classic https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/hot-fried-appetizers-go-classic/ Fri, 27 Oct 2023 18:58:35 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146520 Fried Nation: Fried Appetizer Ideas Nostalgia is hot and so are fried appetizers. Yes, I said fried. Americans love their fried delights. Some diners are looking for an escape from their daily diets, often building cheat meals into their week. Crave-worthy fried foods strike a chord with these hungry patrons, making fried foods big sellers […]

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Fried Nation: Fried Appetizer Ideas

Nostalgia is hot and so are fried appetizers. Yes, I said fried. Americans love their fried delights. Some diners are looking for an escape from their daily diets, often building cheat meals into their week. Crave-worthy fried foods strike a chord with these hungry patrons, making fried foods big sellers on appetizer menus.

You could go with frying something new and creative. Fried goat cheese balls and even deep-fried garlic butter have hit TikTok. While some may be looking for the “State Fair” gimmicky fried foods, the classics will still continue to be beloved. Let’s highlight five traditional apps to test and enhance in your pizza kitchen.

Before we dive into recipes, let’s talk logistics. If you do not have a fryer and all of your food comes from your pizza oven, you can still offer some of these specialties. But it will require you to experiment to get a crispy breading in an oven as well as a baking process that will not hold up your pizza bake times.

Now let’s look at five fried appetizer staples: 

fried mozzarella, mozzarella sticks, appetizer

Fried Mozzarella

Get the Fried Mozzarella recipe.

caprese nuggets

Fried Caprese Nuggets

Get the Fried Caprese Nuggets recipe.

pickle chips, fried pickles

Pickle Chips

Get the Pickle Chips recipe.

arancini Jasper's Ristorante

Arancini

Get the Arancini recipe.

toasted ravioli

Toasted Ravioli

Get the Toasted Ravioli recipe.

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Man on the Street: Soft Serve Ice Cream Explosion https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-soft-serve-ice-cream-explosion/ Thu, 28 Sep 2023 17:26:15 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146424 Pizza is clearly my number one food, but my second favorite is ice cream. They’re both simple on the surface but much deeper upon examination. Ice cream brings us back to our youth, just like pizza. It’s not uncommon to see ice cream or gelato in a pizzeria, but not all shops have the real […]

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Pizza is clearly my number one food, but my second favorite is ice cream. They’re both simple on the surface but much deeper upon examination. Ice cream brings us back to our youth, just like pizza. It’s not uncommon to see ice cream or gelato in a pizzeria, but not all shops have the real estate to squeeze in the equipment. I’ve noticed an interesting ice cream solution popping up at hip new shops across the country that takes up less space, is easier to serve, and makes it easier to customize unique flavors. It seems like every new pizzeria I walk into has a soft serve machine. At first, I thought it was just a quirk at a few pizzerias, but the sight of soft serve has become common enough for me to think it might be the next big thing.

The soft ice cream of my childhood wasn’t very good. It was grainy and flavorless, plus it melted way too quickly. On the contrary, soft serve I get at pizzerias now is creamy and sturdy, with stiff peaks that don’t disintegrate in the summer heat. It’s more like frozen custard than the stuff you get from a Mister Softee truck in New York City.

Pizzerias that serve soft ice cream all seem to be of the upscale variety, so they’re springing for the better machines and higher quality ingredients. These are the pizzerias that obsess over their fermentation process and nitpick over the settings on their ovens, so it’s only fitting that they’re extending the concept to their dessert options. Rather than buying gallons of somebody else’s hard ice cream, they’re creating their own flavors by adding fresh fruit, concentrates, syrups, nut butters and other natural flavorings to a soft serve base.

Just last week I had a phenomenal swirl of pistachio and cantaloupe at a pizzeria in Brooklyn that creates new flavors every week. I love how they’re able to employ the concept of seasonal rotation with soft serve just as pizzerias do on their pizzas. They must love it because I buy way more soft serve when I know I’m getting a limited-edition flavor that won’t be around next time I swing by.

For the operator, soft serve has plenty of logistical benefits over hard ice cream and gelato. The machine takes up less space than a reach-in freezer, so all you need is some available counterspace. Service is faster because it doesn’t require scooping. Most machines have just two flavor banks, so the customer doesn’t spend 35 minutes tasting and choosing between a million different flavors. There’s very little cleanup and maintenance unless it’s time to swap in a new flavor.

Just like with hard ice cream, toppings are a fantastic way to notch up your soft serve. The first time I experienced high end soft serve at a pizzeria was about 12 years ago at Pizzeria Picco in Larkspur, California. This was the first time I saw extra virgin olive oil and flaky sea salt on ice cream. It was a serious revelation for me because it combined the humble experience of eating ice cream with the upscale panache of fancy unexpected toppings. This past March, Chef Wylie Dufresne opened Stretch Pizza in Manhattan. Chef Dufresne is known for his incredibly creative and playful cooking methods, so it should be no surprise that Stretch’s dessert menu features a banana soft serve with optional peanut butter dip and babka breadcrumbs.

Pizza in general is becoming more mature and thoughtful as pizza makers dig deeper into their process. It’s a joy to see that ice cream is doing the same.

SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org  Instagram: @scottspizzatours

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Calzone Crush! 3 Killer Calzone Recipes https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/calzone-crush-3-killer-calzone-recipes/ Fri, 22 Sep 2023 15:32:04 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146411 For years I wasn’t really on the calzone train. Sure, I enjoyed them. But, to be honest, I always thought: “Why not just eat pizza? Same ingredients and I don’t need a fork.” And then one day I asked a friend who had an extensive calzone lineup. “They fly off the shelves as lunch specials,” […]

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For years I wasn’t really on the calzone train. Sure, I enjoyed them. But, to be honest, I always thought: “Why not just eat pizza? Same ingredients and I don’t need a fork.” And then one day I asked a friend who had an extensive calzone lineup. “They fly off the shelves as lunch specials,” he confided. “We rotate them. We add them as limited time
offerings during lunch. We bundle them with a side salad and a drink and they sell like crazy.”

He’s located at a busy city intersection with lots of foot traffic. Nearby offices supply him a steady stream of lunch business. It just made so much sense.

It doesn’t hurt that his calzones are light, airy, flavorful and strike just the right balance of being filling but not overly filling.

To that end, if you’d like to add calzones to your lineup let’s begin with a dedicated calzone dough. You’ll
appreciate the difference. Your customers will, too.

Calzone Dough

Get the Calzone Dough recipe.

When determining which fillings to use, there are no rules. Just like your pizza — you are working with a blank canvas. From basic and traditional (mozzarella, pepperoni) to creative, what’s holding you back? This recipe featuring spinach, mushrooms, salami and Gouda is outstanding.

Gouda Calzone

Get the Gouda Calzone recipe.

While we’re branching out here from the typical calzone options, here is a recipe that Tony Gemignani authored for Pizza Today. The radicchio and balsamic play well together.

Radicchio Calzone

Get the Radicchio Calzone recipe.

Jeremy White is the Editor in Chief for Pizza Today.

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Ham on Pizza: 3 Delicious Ham Pizza Recipes https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/ham-on-pizza-3-delicious-ham-pizza-recipes/ Fri, 22 Sep 2023 14:15:50 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146410 When it comes to pizza sales, ham is a top pizza topping contender Ham doesn’t get the fame and notoriety that other pizza toppings do these days. But don’t discount ham. When it comes to pizza sales, ham is still a top contender. In our State of the Pizzeria Industry Report, we found that ham […]

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When it comes to pizza sales, ham is a top pizza topping contender

Ham doesn’t get the fame and notoriety that other pizza toppings do these days. But don’t discount ham. When it comes to pizza sales, ham is still a top contender. In our State of the Pizzeria Industry Report, we found that ham is a Top 10 pizza topping according to pizzeria operators in every state in the U.S.

Get to the “Bottom” of Ham

Ham is cut from the hind legs and rump of a pig. Simply cooking the fresh pork is still considered ham. But when you preserve the cut, that’s where the magic happens, and America’s most popular hams are born. While you can technically preserve any cut of the pork, only hind legs and butt can be considered ham. Common cuts are the center slice, butt end and ham shank. The shank tends to be fattier than the butt end. Ham can be purchased bone-in or boneless.

Taste varies widely by purveyor. Ham is either dry-cured or brine-cured with salt. Ham can also be smoked and aged.

Let’s look at four of the most common hams for use in a pizzeria.

  • City ham. These are wet cured in a brine of saltwater and pre-cooked. City ham is typically found in grocery stores. City hams offer a well-rounded favor and moist texture.
  • Country ham. The dry cured ham are salted and smoked. The curing process can take several months. Country hams tend to have a more robust salty flavor and a drier texture.
  • Prosciutto. The dry cured Italian ham is thinly sliced. While some favor baking it, prosciutto is at its best as a post-bake item. Prosciutto is sweet, salty and full of flavor.
  • Canadian bacon. This one isn’t really ham at all, though it often gets put in the same classification. It is cut from the pork loin, cured and smoked before it is sliced into the rounds its known for.  The lean meat is tender and tastes similar to ham.

Ham is a versatile pizza topping. There are few typical pizza ingredients that do not pair well with the hearty and salty flavor of the ham of your choosing.

One of my favorite combinations is the Capricciosa that features Italian (or substitute your favorite ham), mushrooms, artichokes and olives. You could also go with anchovies, instead of olives, if you have a market for them.

Since we’ve moved into the colder months, ham is perfect on a white pie that features an Alfredo sauce. Pair it with mushrooms and even balsamic caramelized onions or broccoli.

Four words: Chicken Cordon Bleu Pizza. This is one of the best sandwich turned pizzas out there. It’s hearty and flavorful. We happen to have a dynamite recipe that was created by a longtime contributor Jeffrey Freehof.

Chicken Cordon Bleu Pizza

Get the Chicken Cordon Bleu recipe.

 

The best ham and cheese sandwich meets pizza

I love ham and cheese sandwiches. I’m on a never-ending quest to find the right combination of cheese to pair with the saltiness of ham. Alas, a little restaurant I know makes the best ham and cheese I’ve ever had. It’s so great that I order it once a week. So, I’m using that as inspiration for a hot ham and cheese pizza. Since I’m based in Louisville, Kentucky, I’m using country ham but pick your favorite ham. I’m calling it the Oh Hot Ham and Cheese and here’s the recipe:

Oh Hot Ham & Cheese Pizza

Get the Oh Hot Ham & Cheese Pizza recipe.

 

The famous Hawaiian Pizza

Hawaiian sunshine pizza

Hawaiian Sunshine Pizza

Hawaiian pizza is one of the most popular pizzas in America. The traditional combination is tomato sauce, ham (or
bacon) and pineapple. We ended the debate of whether pineapple belongs on pizza a long time ago when the Hawaiian pizza was introduced in 1962. Sam Panopolulos is credited with creating the first Hawaiian pizza at his Satellite restaurant in Chattam, Ontario, Canada.

Over the years, several iterations of the classic Hawaiian have been introduced throughout America. Here are a few versions that we’ve seen hit big:

  • Ham, pineapple, jalapeno, red sauce and mozzarella
  • Chicken, ham, pineapple, BBQ sauce, mozzarella
  • Prosciutto, burrata, pineapple, fresh mozzarella, basil, sweet red sauce
  • Canadian bacon, pineapple, white cheddar/mozzarella blend, marinara
  • Pepperoni, ham, pineapple, roasted poblanos, sweet red sauce and provolone/mozzarella blend
  • Ham, bacon, pineapple, mozzarella, sweet bell pepper and red sauce

Here’s yet another take on a Hawaiian Pizza from PizzaToday.com:

Hawaiian Sunshine Pizza

Get the Hawaiian Sunshine Pizza recipe.

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Eggplants: Classic ingredient brings profits to menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/eggplants-classic-ingredient-brings-profits-to-menu/ Fri, 22 Sep 2023 13:43:55 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146409 Fall Favorite: Eggplant Recipes Eggplant has always been a favorite of mine. And it should be a favorite of yours, too! It’s a low-cost ingredient that brings both panache and profits to your menu! Throw in that it’s easy to work with, and the question begs: what are you waiting for? To begin with, when […]

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Fall Favorite: Eggplant Recipes

Eggplant has always been a favorite of mine. And it should be a favorite of yours, too! It’s a low-cost ingredient that brings both panache and profits to your menu! Throw in that it’s easy to work with, and the question begs: what are you waiting for?

To begin with, when selecting eggplant be sure to opt for ones that are heavy for their size. These provide better texture. You’re also going to want to salt eggplant and let it sit an hour before using it. This will keep your dish from getting too
watery and prevent the eggplant from soaking up too much oil as well.

Perhaps the most classic use of the ingredient is in an eggplant Parmesan dish. This is one of my favorites and provides a great vegetarian option to your customers. Give this eggplant recipe a whirl.

Eggplant Parmesan

Get the Eggplant Parmesan recipe. 

Eggplant Rollatini

eggplant rollatini, entree, recipeEggplant rollatini is a delicious option as well. You’re going to lightly fry here, and the results are divine when done correctly. Be sure to slice the eggplant thinly.

Get the Eggplant Rollatini recipe.

 

 

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Breaded Chicken as a Pizza Topping is What’s Hot! https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/breaded-chicken-as-a-pizza-topping-is-whats-hot/ Tue, 19 Sep 2023 14:39:12 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146371 4 Trending Chicken Pizza Recipes Did you know that chicken is the 6th most popular pizza topping? When we surveyed the pizzeria industry for the 2023 State of the Pizzeria Industry Report, we asked for their top pizza toppings on their menu. Chicken ranked as a Top 10 Pizza Topping.   Using Chicken in your […]

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4 Trending Chicken Pizza Recipes

Did you know that chicken is the 6th most popular pizza topping? When we surveyed the pizzeria industry for the 2023 State of the Pizzeria Industry Report, we asked for their top pizza toppings on their menu. Chicken ranked as a Top 10 Pizza Topping.

 

Using Chicken in your Restaurant

Before we get to recipe ideas, let’s talk logistics of serving chicken. We assigned Melissa Rickman, owner of Wholly Stromboli in Fort Lupton, Colorado, to provide tips for serving chicken in your restaurant. Here are a few takeaways from her advice:

  • Go for quality over price.
  • Charge for a premium chicken product.
  • Avoid using raw chicken on the makeline. The risk of cross-contamination is too great.
  • Don’t be afraid to used marinades and seasoning to make chicken stand out.

Check out the full article: How to source and prepare chicken for your Restaurant.

 

Now let’s talk breaded chicken pizzas

fried chicken pizzaBreaded chicken is a great option in a pizzeria due to its versatility. Use it in apps, salads, sandwiches, pizzas, pastas and other entrees.

We looked through our archives and this isn’t the first time that breaded chicken hit a hot trend. Gotcha Covered: Breaded chicken makes a great pizza topping, Pizza Today looked at delicious possibilities with breaded chicken.

Need inspiration for your own specialty breaded chicken pies? Consider the following combinations:

  • Chicken Parmesan (breaded chicken, tomato sauce and mozzarella).
  • Chicken-Bacon-Ranch (cheese, bacon, breaded chicken and tomatoes with buttermilk ranch dressing drizzle).
  • Tex-Mex Chicken (either red or green enchilada sauce topped with corn, diced breaded chicken, chilies, cheese, cilantro and drizzled in salsa).
  • Barbecue Chicken (barbecue sauce topped with cheese, breaded chicken, bell peppers and onions).

Go to Gotcha Covered: Breaded chicken makes a great pizza topping.

 

Trending Breaded Chicken Pizza Recipes that Customers Love

There are four tried and tested breaded chicken pizzas that are instant hits on menus. Depending on your customer base and region, one of these may be even more of a smash. Test these four trending breaded chicken pizza recipes in your kitchen.

  1. Tony’s Trending Recipe: Chicken Parm Pizza

  2. Nashville Hot Chicken Pizza

  3. Boneless Buffalo Wing Pizza

  4. Chicken “Cordon Blacon

 

 

 

Do you have a creative breaded chicken pizza? Tag us @PizzaToday a photo of it on social.

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Mike’s Monthly Tip: You’ve Never Had Dessert. https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/mikes-monthly-tip-youve-never-had-dessert/ Fri, 25 Aug 2023 14:55:41 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146290 Have you ever had a dessert in your life? The answer is no, you never have. You’ve had red velvet cake, buttercream cake, peach cobbler, Deluxe Dutch Molten Volcano Pudding Surprise, or any other super wordy dessert name variation. Still, you’ve never had dessert because dessert is simply the title of what the category is, […]

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Have you ever had a dessert in your life? The answer is no, you never have. You’ve had red velvet cake, buttercream cake, peach cobbler, Deluxe Dutch Molten Volcano Pudding Surprise, or any other super wordy dessert name variation. Still, you’ve never had dessert because dessert is simply the title of what the category is, not the actual item itself. But often in a restaurant, servers come to the table at the end of the meal asking, “Anyone got room for dessert?” If you have a sweet tooth, you might say, “What do you have?” -— essentially having this customer do the work of the server. It’s a much harder hill to climb when you approach selling dessert that way.

Mike Bausch, owner, Andolini’s Pizzeria, Tulsa, Oklahoma, speaker, International Pizza Expo

Mike Bausch, owner, Andolini’s Pizzeria

Dessert is an easy incremental revenue item that every restaurant should advantageously seek to sell. Because desserts typically have sugar as the primary ingredient, they’re incredibly cheap and highly profitable.

So the goal should not be to merely have a dessert menu but rather to maximize the exposure and likelihood of selling dessert to as many customers as possible. To do this the approach must be procedural, not random.

Here’s how you increase that likelihood. First and foremost, come up with a long-winded name for every one of your desserts. Instead of basic cookies, they should fulfill a name like double-chunk, half-baked smoreos cookies, which is unique and entices the purchaser. The goofier and more unique the better. At the end of a meal, people also think, “I’m full, and I don’t want to spend any more money.” After a customer has eaten is the exact worst time to offer them dessert. If you want to sell desserts at a higher rate, you need servers coming by after they take the meal order before the food arrives. A pop-in to the table with this statement works great, “Hey, I just wanted to tell you about ……..” And then detail each item by name. It would be even better if they could swing it by visually, showing off the actual dessert items, to let the people start to think about it.

Ideally, you have a very hard-to-make dessert, and the server HAS to make this early sale because: “We have a limited amount.” Or “It takes more time to make this item. If you want it, I need to get it going now.” So you build exclusivity and intrigue at the most likely time of wanting to purchase it and secure the order while the customer is still hungry. After that, it’s just about delivering on the promise.

Now, these tips work great for a dine-in restaurant experience. However, if it’s on the phone or at a counter, that person could still sell better than a computer if they position it and ask about it like an invitation to a party, not an additional priced item. Case in point, “Would you like to spend $5.95 for cookies also?” Or, “Extra, double-chunk cookies with that ???!” Getting the customer to say, “Sure, why not?” As opposed to, “I don’t know if I want to add any more to this order.”

For online ordering, the ideal is to have a pop-up box, like the big boys do, after getting their main entree items in the cart. If your online portal does not have that ability, then if nothing else, have a great description and a fantastic, well-photographed version of your desserts to increase the likelihood of purchase. Do these tips, and you’ll see your dessert sales exponentially increase.

Mike Bausch is the owner of Andolini’s Pizzeria in Tulsa, Oklahoma. Instagram: @mikeybausch

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Plan Now for Fall and Winter Pizza Toppings https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/plan-now-for-fall-and-winter-pizza-toppings/ Thu, 24 Aug 2023 18:54:45 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146288 Keep it cozy with Cold Weather Pizza Toppings After a record-breaking hot summer in much of the U.S., we are ready for cooler temperatures. Are your fall and winter menus prepared to provide that cold-weather comfort? Just as summer tomatoes bring a freshness to your summer menu, look to cozy ingredients to warm up your […]

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Keep it cozy with Cold Weather Pizza Toppings

After a record-breaking hot summer in much of the U.S., we are ready for cooler temperatures. Are your fall and winter menus prepared to provide that cold-weather comfort? Just as summer tomatoes bring a freshness to your summer menu, look to cozy ingredients to warm up your customers when the temperatures go cool.

September is a perfect time to plan those cold-weather specialty menus. Before I dive into creative cozy pizza ideas, let’s reflect on your seasonal successes. You don’t have to start from scratch with your fall and winter pizza menus, go to your well for great pizzas that have worked.

During the pandemic, I offered some advice for changing up your fall menu. With cost of goods and inflation, that advice is still sound as you plan your fall and winter menus. Here are my five tips to help mitigate some of that risk of changing up your menu seasonally:

  1. Go with your proven winners.
  2. Look back to your sales reports from the past three to five years and find those fall and winter menu specials. Which fall and winter debut items were hits and which were duds?
  3. Odds are you will find common ingredients that customers loved and ingredients that your market just didn’t care for. If you are unable to access item-by-item data history, scour your past fall and winter special social media posts. Were there items that garnered more attention than others?
  4. Once you have a list of the popular fall and winter ingredients for your market, it’s time to think labor. Now may not be the time to roll out a labor-intensive new item. Instead try preparation and cooking techniques that do not strap your kitchen crew. Choose methods that can be prepped ahead or are already a part of your makeline.
  5. Now it’s time to get creative in your kitchen. Try pairing seasonal items with those can’t-miss ingredients. People may be willing to get out of their pizza comfort zone if they see pepperoni or sausage on that a new fall or winter item.

Make pizza extra cozy with a white sauce

chicken bechamel pizzaPizza is already one of America’s best comfort foods. What can make pizza extra cozy? There are ingredients that are more filling. Here are a few ingredients to try on your cold-weather pizza:

White Sauces, from bechamel and Alfredo to thicker cheese-based sauces give the heftier feel.

Start with a basic bechamel sauce: Here is a basic bechamel sauce recipe. 

From there, let’s talk add-ins. You could go with cheese like Parmesan, bleu cheese, Gruyère, white cheddar or goat cheese. Roasted garlic always works well in a white sauce. Try other ingredients to change it up and make it your own — roasted red pepper, mushrooms, your favorite hot sauce or roasted hot pepper. Try herbs and seasonings like cayenne, onion powder, paprika, parsley, rosemary, saffron or sage. Even lemon can be that missing ingredient.

Look to heartier produce as pizza toppings

Now that we’ve concocted the perfect white sauce, it’s time to think about veggies. Luckily, there are some hearty varieties that will pair well with your version of a white sauce.

Let’s look at some fall and winter vegetable options: butternut squash, acorn squash, pumpkin, other winter squash, beetroot, carrots, Brussels sprouts, turnips, parsnips, potatoes, collard greens, mustard greens, kale, onion, shallots, leeks, radicchio and escarole.

I’m sure as you peruse the list, you’re thinking “how can I incorporate these atypical ingredients onto my pizza menu?” Start with more recognized favorites like squash, pumpkin and potatoes. You can roast these or even go a step further and puree them. People tend to sweeten up pumpkin and squash with brown sugar, honey and cinnamon. Play with flavoring. I challenge you to try combinations on the savory side like sage or rosemary. Hit them with lemon juice.

Onto the Recipes

I’ve included two very basic recipes for you to work your magic on. Your homework assignment is to add your own spin to the pizzas, whether that is incorporating a protein or seasoning them up. Whatever you come up with, tag us on social
@PizzaToday. Go get creative!

Butternut Squash & Gorgonzola Pizza Recipe

Butternut Squash & Gorgonzola Pizza

Butternut Squash and Gorgonzola Pizza

 

Potato, Bacon & Provolone Pizza Recipe

bacon potato pizza

Potato, Bacon & Provolone Pizza

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Proper Recipe Creation https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/proper-recipe-creation/ Wed, 23 Aug 2023 20:07:33 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146281 Restaurant Recipe Creation from Concept to Reality Often a recipe can be all title and no substance. The quattro formaggi pizza doesn’t amount to much if one of the four kinds of cheese is Velveeta. Like having a movie script start with the title instead of the story — i.e., snakes on a plane instead […]

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Restaurant Recipe Creation from Concept to Reality

Often a recipe can be all title and no substance. The quattro formaggi pizza doesn’t amount to much if one of the four kinds of cheese is Velveeta. Like having a movie script start with the title instead of the story — i.e., snakes on a plane instead of a well-crafted script that naturally gains a title. Curating great food is a culmination of balance, structure and creativity to value the consumer’s palette above anything else. After that, it’s operational awareness and knowing how to execute it effectively. Hence, all staff and customers are keenly aware of this item’s value proposition and why they should buy it. Here is my process for achieving that.

New Menu Item Conceptualization

Any great recipe starts with inspiration, whether a spin on something you’ve had yourself or something unique. The best recipes come from items you long to eat yourself. They don’t come from simply seeking to people please, without a heart behind it, to make the best possible thing. Even making a gluten-free pizza, assuming you have no gluten intolerance, must still be made from a place of intrigue and dedication to greatness because no one wants to go to the second-best pizza place in town. Then once you’re inspired, it’s time to create and make the best version possible. If you have proficient culinary staff, a quarterly menu submission meeting is a great team builder and an opportunity to freshen up a menu.

Testing and Agreement

Once the concept is ready, it’s time for it to take a tangible form. Prepare your pizza, taste it, refine it and repeat this process until you hit the sweet spot where the best creation possible has been achieved. The testing phase is a series of trials and errors, incorporating feedback from your staff, customers who dig you, and people who don’t care if they tell you something you don’t want to hear.

Process Creation

Upon successfully testing the new recipe, the next step is establishing a comprehensive process that enables the kitchen team to recreate the same pizza consistently. A well-documented process should specify each ingredient’s weight or volume, prep order, cooking times, temperatures, if applicable, and every other detail that ensures consistency and quality. Specificity is your friend on a recipe. The process creation step is the blueprint that helps transform your unique concept into a replicable product.

Meanwhile, training your staff to prepare the new recipe ideally is another significant aspect. Knowledgeable and skilled kitchen staff are the backbone of your operations. Having staff cook the new item off a few times to learn it with repetition ensures a run on the new item goes well. Additionally, having staff try the pizza so they can speak to it and sell it in their voice should occur from the kitchen test runs of the recipe.

Ingredient Sourcing

The next stage is to source the right ingredients. If you made the recipe from items purchased at a grocery store, it’s time to find it affordably sold in bulk from your supplier. You can only price it out once you know what you can legitimately and consistently produce the item for.

In-House Menu, Description and Pricing

Once the item is ready to hit your restaurant’s floor, you must prepare it for its digital debut. Integrating the recipe into your in-house menu involves having a solid description and menu placement with a price that justifies its unique value proposition and exceeds the target profit margin. The price should be based first on food cost, then what it’s comparable to in the market, and last but not least, what you can sell it for if it’s so unique and special that it’s a must to try it.

Menu Synchronization

With the new items ready for its launch, it’s time to synchronize all your menus – in-house, takeout, catering and online. Every platform must reflect this new addition, ensuring a cohesive customer experience across all ordering channels. I find it easier to print and prepare all the materials and change everything out Sunday night after closing so you can come in Monday ready to rock with a new menu. If you are doing one item with a slow rollout, that’s fine too, but eventually, the extensive process needs to occur if the item is a winner.

Online Presence and Delivery Services Menu Updates

In this digital era, a significant chunk of your business might come from online platforms. Ensure your new recipe’s description, price and pictures are updated on your website and other online delivery services. Remember, your online menu serves as a virtual gateway to your pizzeria. It’s your digital front door, and having a bad one is like a restaurant with the open sign not turned on.

Marketing and Promotion

The last step is a proper launch with pinpoint targeted marketing. Use all the tools in your marketing arsenal, including social media platforms, e-mail newsletters, and in-house promotions. Organize more food tastings for staff day of launch, push your promotions on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, and ensure a consistent marketing message across all channels. Invite the news to try the new items; you never know what might get picked up on a slow news day. A press release is not out of the question and costs nothing if you do it yourself.

If that’s not your speed, direct messaging people with large followings in your community to try the new item on you, i.e., free, is an easy and also low-cost way to get your fast social presence for the item. This sounds like influencer marketing, and it is, but go after people with influence to your demo, not people who advertise themselves as paid influencers. In Tulsa, the television weather people carry more social clout and followers than the average MLM marketer who wants constant paid freebies.

In Summary

The recipe process from concept to a tangible offering on your menu is a detailed and comprehensive system that demands a blend of creativity, precision, and business acumen. Every pizza that leaves your kitchen is not just a food item but a testament to your dedication, hard work and commitment to delivering value to your customers. If it’s not, you are selling a commodity — and commodities only fight in a race to be the cheapest, not the best.

Mike Bausch is the owner of Andolini’s Pizzeria in Tulsa, Oklahoma. Instagram: @mikeybausch

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Detroit Style Pizza: A Guide to Detroit Pizza https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/detroit-style-pizza-a-guide-to-detroit-pizza/ Mon, 14 Aug 2023 14:55:21 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146208 Discover Detroit-Style Pizza Detroit style pizza is a square, deep dish pizza that is known for its racing stripes sauce on top, cheese crust crown and light crust. Whether you call them red tops or square pizza, Detroit-style pizza is a unique pizza style that hast become one of the hottest pizza styles and one […]

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Discover Detroit-Style Pizza

Detroit style pizza is a square, deep dish pizza that is known for its racing stripes sauce on top, cheese crust crown and light crust. Whether you call them red tops or square pizza, Detroit-style pizza is a unique pizza style that hast become one of the hottest pizza styles and one of the most popular pizzas in the U.S.Pizza Today has amassed a library of resources on Detroit pizza. In this guide, you’ll learn about Detroit style pizza’s characteristics, history, dough, recipes, best Detroit pizza and more.

Detroit Pizza Guide Table of Contents

  1. What is Detroit Style Pizza?
  2. What Makes Detroit-Style Pizza Different?
    1. The dough
    2. The proofing process
    3. The pans
    4. Toppings and cheeses
    5. Deck oven baking
  3. What makes a Detroit Pizza a Detroit Pizza?
    1. Detroit Style Pizza Dough
    2. Detroit Style Pizza Pan
    3. The Detroit Cheese Crown Pizza
    4. What is Brick Cheese on Detroit pizza?
    5. Why is it called a Detroit Red Top?
  4. Detroit Style Pizza Recipe
    1. 3 Detroit Pizza and Detroit Pizza Dough Recipes
  5. Best Detroit Style Pizza
    1. Best Detroit Style Pizza in Detroit
    2. Detroit-Style Pizza went national
  6. Detroit Pizza vs Chicago
    1. What is the difference between Detroit-Style and Chicago-Style Pizza?
  7. What is the difference between Detroit and New York Pizza?
  8. How To Reheat Detroit Style Pizza
  9. Detroit Style Pizza gets a National Food Holiday

 

What is Detroit Style Pizza?

Detroit-style pizza has gone national and international. Until a decade ago, Motor City visitors would ask, “what is a Detroit style pizza?” Detroit natives just called it pizza. The Detroit style deep dish pizza is unique and unlike any other pizza style. Today, Detroit-style pizza can be found across the United State and around the world.

Buddy's Pizza, first detroit style pizzeria, detroit style pizza, origin of Detroit Pizza

Detroit-style pizza originated at Buddy’s Pizza in Detroit, Michigan, in 1946.

The square pie can be traced back to who created Detroit style pizza. Buddy’s Rendevous Pizzeria. According to Buddy’s Pizza’s own history on its website, “The Detroit-style Pizza legacy began at Buddy’s Rendezvous Pizzeria on Six Mile and Conant Street on Detroit’s East Side when in 1946 Gus Guerra and team made their first square-shaped pizza. Baked in forged-steel pans borrowed from local automotive plants, they were able to produce a very light and crispy crust which is now known as Detroit-Style Pizza. This was the first known square pizza in the U.S.”

Listen to Buddy’s Pizza CBO Wes Pikula on The Hot Slice Podcast. Detroit-style pizza is trending across the country. This week, we talk to Chief Branding Officer Wes Pikula of Buddy’s Pizza, the original Detroit style. Discover more about Buddy’s, the development of the Detroit pizza and how the legendary pizza company is in full growth mode.

It wasn’t until a pizza maker Shawn Randazzo, who owned Detroit Pizza Company, won Pizza Maker of the Year and placed first in the Pan Division with a Detroit pizza at the 2012 International Pizza Challenge at Pizza Expo in Las Vegas. This was the first time a Detroit pizza took the top honor at the international pizza competition.

 

What Makes Detroit-Style Pizza Different?

There are several characteristics of the Detroit style pizza that separates it from any other style. The late Shawn Randazzo, who owned Detroit-Style Pizza Company in St. Clair Shores, Michigan, helped take the style national when he consulted with pizzerias across the country teaching the Detroit style. He said in “Do it Detroit style” kitchen feature: “One of the most unique aspects of Detroit-style pizza is its square shape due to the fact that it is prepared in square steel pans. Detroit was experiencing a boom in automotive manufacturing in the 1940s, and the pans used to bake the first Detroit-style pizzas were also used as small parts trays at auto plants. Square steel pans are still used to prepare authentic Detroit-style pizza today.”

Detroit pizza is distinctively unique down to how its dough is proofed, the baking process, ingredients used and how to apply toppings.

A brief look at what makes Detroit pizza different from Shawn Randazzo’s Do It Detroit Style feature:

• The dough.

via 313, austin, texas, detroit style pizzaDetroit-style pizza features a medium-thick crust that’s light and airy on the inside, yet crispy on the outside, a signature of authenticity that’s achieved by a high moisture content (between a 68- and 72-percent hydration level) and the proofing process. Preparing your Detroit-style pizza dough takes care and attention to detail.

• The proofing process.

There are two ways to proof Detroit-style pizza dough. For the first method, you refrigerate the dough for a 24-hour cold fermentation period, which can enhance taste and texture. After 24 hours, you can press the dough out into the pans, making sure it is consistently even throughout the entire pan. Once fully pressed out, let it rise to a thickness of between one inch and one and one-quarter inch. At this point, the dough is ready to bake.

• The pans.

As mentioned, Detroit-style pizza is baked in square steel pans. We season our pans through a multi-step process that protects the pans and makes pizza more flavorful with each bake. Over time, the oils from the pizzas you bake will lend a natural seasoning to your pans. Like an old friend once said, “Like fine wine, Detroit-style pizza pans improve with time.”

• Toppings & cheeses.

Traditionally, a layer of pepperoni lines Detroit-style pizza crust. Next, cheese is spread evenly across the entire pizza, edge to edge, covering the pepperoni. Brick and mozzarella cheese blends are the most authentic, and brick cheese can be blended with other cheeses as well. However, there are substitutes that can be used in areas where brick cheese is difficult to obtain or extremely pricey. After the cheese is applied, any additional toppings can be placed on top.

• The sauce.

Ladling red sauce on last is one of the signatures of Detroit-style pizza, which is why it has earned the nicknames “red top pizza” and “upside down pizza.” You can craft your own red sauce recipe, but it’s best to begin with ground tomatoes as the base. The sauce is simmered until it’s ready to use, and it’s traditionally applied to Detroit-style pizza after baking. Some pizzerias apply it before baking, which does not jeopardize authenticity — but it can affect the bake due to high moisture content.

• Deck oven baking.

Detroit-style pizza is baked in deck ovens, which admittedly take some time to master. Training your kitchen staff to properly use deck ovens is critical to consistent baking. Natural gas-fired deck ovens with stone or steel decks are fired from the bottom so they don’t dehydrate vegetables and other toppings like forced air conveyor pizza ovens tend to do.

Now’s let’s go deeper in Detroit Pizza characteristics.

detroit style pizza, pizza styles,

A Detroit pizza being made at the International Pizza Challenge at Pizza Expo in Las Vegas.

 

So, what makes a Detroit Pizza a Detroit Pizza? 

According to Buddy’s site: “The style flips traditional pizza on its head by beginning with double proofed dough perfectly fit to a square pan – a process that allows the dough to rise and be stretched twice – followed by the backwards layering of toppings.”

There are several factors that makes a Detroit pizza a Detroit pizza, including its dough process, how the dough is proofed, oven baking and how ingredients are staged.

Detroit Style Pizza Dough

Dough Expert Laura Meyer has covered Detroit style pizza dough extensively. In her Knew to Know article, she explained, “In terms of dough process, I managed to speak with someone within the Buddy’s company; but unfortunately, I am not privy to specific proprietary information. What I could gather is that they, like a lot of pizzerias in Detroit, are doing it the same way they always have or as close to the same as possible. They are using fresh yeast, a mid- to low-range protein flour, and there is no browning agent and no fat or very little fat in the dough. For water I suspect a lower hydration not exceeding 60 percent. The dough is made same day and is proofed in the pan for a number of hours before being cooked. The representative from Buddy’s explained to me that it “should be light and crunchy”. During my eating tour of Detroit, I noticed the height of each pizza was only about one to 1.5 inches and had a crumb structure that was tighter with many small bubbles. There was a crunch on the bottom, but it was never super distinct. It was the type of crunch that you get from contact with the pan and length of cook time, but not the thicker and more sturdy crunch you get from higher hydration.”

Get a Detroit-style Pizza Dough Formula Recipe, including detailed dough process from Dough Expert Laura Meyer in Knead to Know: The Tenets of Detroit-style Pizza, Part II.

Detroit Style Pizza Pan

Detroit style pizza pan, square pizza pan

An example of the Detroit Style Pizza pan

Originally Detroit pizzas were made to readily available auto manufacturing’s small parts trays because they were available and found in abundance in the Motor City.. Those auto parts pans are hard to come by today. But pizza pan manufacturers have stepped in to provide pans that meet the expectations for operators to bake a Detroit-style pizza. LloydPans is featured in our Product Showcase with 8″×10″, and 10″×14″ inch Detroit-Style Pans. See more on LloydPans’ Detroit Style Pizza Pans.

The Detroit Cheese Crown Pizza

Hunny's Pizza, Saline, Michigan, detroit style pizza

Cheese crown at Hunny’s Pizza, Saline, Michigan

It’s unclear whether the cheese crusted crown edging a Detroit pizza is an original trait. But today, it is a signature that pizzerias across the country have strived to outdo each other on the Instagramability of cheese crown on a Detroit-style pizza. Follow hashtags like #cheesecrown on Instagram.

To create the cheese crown, pile extra cheese along the edge of the well-seasoned and oiled pan. After the bake, use a metal spatula to carefully extract the pizza, keeping the crispy crown intact.

What is Brick Cheese on Detroit pizza?

A signature component that makes a Detroit pizza a Detroit pizza is Brick Cheese. What is Brick Cheese? Brick cheese is a Wisconsin semi-hard, cow’s milk cheese that gets its name from the bricks used to press out the moisture in the cheese. It’s a mild and buttery flavored cheese but can get more pungent and tangy as it ages. Pizza makers are experimenting with various ages of brick cheese on Detroit pizza. Brick cheese is often blended with mozzarella. In past, brick cheese was hard to find. Today, many main line distributors carry Brick cheese.

Why is it called a Detroit Red Top?

detroit style pizzaThe reason why you hear Detroit pizzas being called Detroit Red Top is due to the red sauce that is applied to the top of the pizza.

In Motor City Pizza, Jeff Smokevitch says, “The sauce is usually applied before the final bake for par-baked pies. Although gaining recent popularity is the technique of applying pizza sauce after the final bake (raw bake or par bake). Most of the older operators in Detroit will apply their pizza sauce before a raw bake. If applying after the final bake, make sure your pizza sauce is in a hot holding container of 135 F or above. Sauce is a heavy ingredient for the pie. When you apply the sauce, it should be based on the strength of the dough.”

Detroit Style Pizza Recipe

How to make a Detroit style pizza by following one our recipes built by pizza masters and pizza dough experts. The Detroit Style Pizza Dough Recipe As many pizzeria recipe ingredients are proprietary, we have enlisted the best pizza makers in the U.S. to create Detroit Style Pizza Recipes for you to try in your kitchen. Our recipes provide detailed how to make and bake a Detroit style pizza.

Before we get into specific Detroit style pizza and dough recipes, watch as World Pizza Champion Jeff Smokevitch shares how to make detroit style pizza at home in this how-to video:

 

Detroit Style Pizza Recipes: Try 3 Detroit Pizza and Detroit Pizza Dough Recipes

Jeff Smokevitch, detroit style pizza, detroit pizza demo, pizza expo, las vegas

Jeff Smokevitch instructs on how to make a Detroit style pizza during his demo at Pizza Expo in Las Vegas.

  1. Smoke’s Detroit-Style Dough Recipe. Jeff Smokevitch is a World Pizza Champion who brought Detroit Style Pizza to Colorado — first to Telluride at Brown Dog Pizza, then to Denver and beyond with Blue Pan Pizza. Follow this Detroit pizza recipe. Jeff Smokevitch leads a demonstration at Pizza Expo to teach how to make a Detroit-style pizza. You can also watch him as he created a Detroit pizza in his home kitchen.
  2. Detroit-Style Pizza Dough by John Arena. Co-owner of Metro Pizza in Las Vegas, John Arena is a go-to pizza dough expert. He shares his Detroit pizza recipe that includes a Poolish for Detroit-Style Pizza Dough. His recipe walks you through the dough process, dough fermentation and room temperature proof.
  3. Tony’s Trending Recipe: Detroit Pizza. Tony Gemignani is a world-famous pizza master and restaurateur with over 30 restaurants, most notably Tony’s Pizza Napolentana in San Francisco. His recipe pays tribute to Shawn Randazzo. He says, “I remember having Shawn Randazzo in one of my seminars several years ago and telling the audience that this guy may win it all the next day … and he did. The following year Jeff Smokevitch won with his Detroit pizza. It was a style that was relatively new to the competition circuit, and it was a beginning of a renaissance. Here is a recipe of one of the most popular Detroit pizzas at my restaurants. I call it The Motorhead.”

>> Explore Pizza Dough Recipes for Top Trending Pizza Styles including Detroit, New York, Grandma, Sicilian, Chicago Thin and Deep Dish. <<

 

Best Detroit Style Pizza

Since Detroit style pizza went mainstream more than a decade ago. Pizzerias across the country are trying the match the Motor City pizzerias who made the style famous. Buddy’s Pizza, Cloverleaf Bar & Restaurant and Loui’s.

detroit pizza, Tony's Pizza Napoletana

Detroit Red Top Pizza at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana in San Francisco

As Detroit style pizza grow across the country, pizzerias outside of the Motor City became famous for their Detroit pizza. Brown Dog Pizza in Telluride and Denver, Colorado-based Blue Pan have made national best pizza lists for their Detroit-style pizzas. Austin, Texas-based Via 313 was named Pizza Today’s Pizzeria of the Year in 2020 and received investment to take the Detroit style brand to more states.

There are a host of pizzerias throughout the country who are serving up “Detroit inspired” pizza and gaining national and international attention. One of the best rated Detroit-style pizza places actually reside in Mount Pleasant, South Carolina. Toni’s Detroit Pizza according to Yelp’s Top Pizza Spots.

At the International Pizza Challenge 2024 during Pizza Expo in Las Vegas Charlie Webb, (50.59) Hudson & Packard, Poughkeepsie, New York, placed Second in the over Pan Division and won the Shawn Randazzo Memorial Award with the top scoring Detroit style pizza. See how well Detroit style pizzas performed at the International Pizza Challenge.

Best Detroit Style Pizza in Detroit

Buddy's Pizza, first detroit style pizzeria, detroit style pizza, origin of Detroit Pizza

Buddy’s Pizza

Who has the best Detroit Style Pizza in Detroit? Buddy’s Pizza has long held the title of starting the pizza style. The legendary pizzeria has also been named best pizza on national and international pizza lists. Other Detroit pizza places have also garnered attention for their Detroit Style Pizza including Cloverleaf Bar & Restaurant in Eastpoint was founded by Gus Guerra after selling Buddy’s. Detroit Style Pizza Company was founded by World Pizza Champion Shawn Randazzo who went on to help take Detroit Style pizza national before his passing in 2020.  Shield’s Other hot pizzerias that have garnered a reputation for having some of the best Detroit style pizza in Detroit include Green Lantern Pizza, Loui’s Pizza, Amar Pizza, Palazzo Di Pizza, Como’s Restaurant, Amico’s Pizza and others.

Plenty of articles have come out ranking the best Detroit Style Pizza in Detroit. Some of the more prominent rankings include:

16 Places Dishing Up Detroit-Style Pizza — Eater Detroit

The Absolute Best Pizza In Detroit, Ranked — Tasting Table

The Essential Places to Eat Pizza in Detroit — Food&Wine

Eugene Supreme, Detroit style pizza, Jet's Pizza, National Detroit Style Pizza Day

Jet’s Pizza was one of the first Pizza Chains to introduce a Detroit pizza. The pizza company celebrates National Detroit Style Pizza Day with specials each year.

Detroit-Style Pizza went national

One indicator that a regional style has reached national status is when America’s largest pizza chains start offering the pizza style. Detroit-style pizza landed on the menu of the biggest pizza companies in the U.S. Sterling Heights, Michigan-based Jet’s Pizza is a growing national pizza chain may have been the first franchise to take Detroit style pizza national. Jet’s has been serving Detroit style pizza for over 40 years. Today, Jet’s Pizza has more than 400 locations in 21 states. Pizza Hut introduced a Detroit Style Pan Pizza limited time offer in 2021. Though founded in Detroit in 1959, Little Caesars debuted its Detroit-Style Deep Dish Pizza in 2022.

Listen to Jet’s Pizza Owners on The Hot Slice Podcast. This episode is dedicated to one of the COVID-19 Pizzeria Impact Stories that we’re featuring all month. Jet’s Pizza is one of America’s largest pizza companies with hundreds of locations in 19 states, helping move Detroit-style pizza mainstream. Listen to an engaging roundtable discussion with Jet’s Pizza leadership, including Jimmy Galloway, Vice President of Franchise Sales; John Jetts, President; and Jeff Galloway, Vice President of Store Operations. Learn what the pizza company experienced during the COVID-19 Pandemic.

Frozen pizza brands are also getting in on the action. Costco has a Motor City Pizza frozen pizza line, now also available at Kroger and Target. Another frozen pizza brands offering a Detroit style is Digiorno.

Detroit Pizza vs Chicago

Detroit pizza is very different from it Great Lakes neighbor Chicago. Both have long histories of introducing their own regional pizza styles. Chicago deep dish went national long before Detroit. Both are considered deep dish pan pizzas but they look and taste very different.

What is the difference between Detroit-Style and Chicago-Style Pizza?

detroit style pizza dough recipeWhile both are deep dish pan pizzas, the similarities between Detroit pizza and Chicago deep  dish end there. Let’s look at what Chicago Deep Dish style pizza is. In Going Deep, Katie Ayoub outlines, “This unique pie stands out with a crisp, biscuit-like crust that comes up the sides of a three- inch pan. It’s thick with cheese and other ingredients, and then topped with a chunky tomato sauce and baked for 30 to 45 minutes.”

The crust is a lot different. In Deep Dish Pizza, Dough Doctor Tom Lehmann says “the thickness of the crust and the overall heft separate deep-dish from, say, thin-crust pizza. Another difference is that deep-dish pizza is formed and baked in a deep-sided (usually 2 inches high) pizza pan that has been seasoned to the point that it is black. Also, the size and amount of dough require that the pizza be baked longer that a thin-crust pizza (while some shortcuts involving parbaking the crust have been tried, this doesn’t work in favor of a well-made deep-dish pie). The fact is that the longer oven time tremendously enhances the flavor.”

slice, chicago style pizza, deep dishDetroit has a much taller crust with crunch. Detroit Pizza crust is often describe as “looks like a brick, tastes like a feather”. In Tenets of Detroit Style Pizza, Laura Meyer notes, “I noticed the height of each pizza was only about one to 1.5 inches and had a crumb structure that was tighter with many small bubbles. There was a crunch on the bottom, but it was never super distinct. It was the type of crunch that you get from contact with the pan and length of cook time, but not the thicker and more sturdy crunch you get from higher hydration.”

What is the difference between Detroit and New York Pizza?

Short answer: everything! There could not be any two pizza crusts that any more different than New York Style Pizza and Detroit style pizza. Detroit is a thick, pan pizza while New York thin crust is applied directly to deck ovens. In a Q&A with John Arena, pizza champion Derek Sanchez says, “Our target is light, full of air, crispy yet tender, great structure, foldable and fermented to just the right flavor profile.”

The crust height is a huge difference. New York style pizza crust should be about 1/8-inch thick through the middle with a raised edge. Detroit can up up to 1.5 inches high with toppings and cheese to the edge.

Get a detail description and a New York Pizza Dough recipe in New York New York.

How To Reheat Detroit Style Pizza

Send customers home with pizza reheating instructions. Find out how to reheat Detroit Style Pizza now. The skillet seems to be the preferred method of reheating. We suggest if you have cast iron, it will give it that added crunch. Heat the pan to medium, add pizza and cover. Heat for 5 minutes.

Others good ways to reheat Detroit pizza is by using a toaster over or conventional oven. You can also reheat pizza in an air fryer.

Detroit Style Pizza gets a National Food Holiday

National Detroit Style Pizza Day is held annually on June 23. The origin of National Detroit Style Pizza Day can be traced back to the Motor City. Detroit May proclaimed June 23 Buddy’s Pizza Day in 2011. In honor of Buddy’s Pizza’s 75th Anniversary, the date was also made into the National Detroit Style Pizza Day in 2021. Check out the other nine Can’t Miss Pizza Holidays.

Detroit is a one of the hottest pizza trends in America

Each year, Pizza Today surveys pizzeria operators in U.S. to get a gauge on the hottest pizza trends in the U.S. Detroit Style Pizza was the biggest pizza trends in 2023. Learn more about how Detroit ranked in our 2024 Pizza Industry Trends Report. In a short decade, Detroit-style pizza has risen to the 7th in pizzas offered in American pizzerias. When we asked what style pizzeria operators intend to add in the next year, Detroit pizza was No. 1. We also sought to find out what the biggest trend was in the pizza industry today and Detroit was a top answer.

 

 

 

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Corn is the hit Pizza Topping of the Summer https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/corn-is-the-hit-pizza-topping-of-the-summer/ Mon, 24 Jul 2023 20:29:45 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146135 7 Corn Recipes to Try Right Now It’s corn. A year after a kid went viral with his declaration of corn’s deliciousness. His words are top of mind as we see piles of corn on the cob at farmer’s markets and grocery stores. “It’s corn. A big lump with knobs. It has the juice (it […]

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7 Corn Recipes to Try Right Now

It’s corn. A year after a kid went viral with his declaration of corn’s deliciousness. His words are top of mind as we see piles of corn on the cob at farmer’s markets and grocery stores.

“It’s corn. A big lump with knobs. It has the juice (it has the juice). I can’t imagine a more beautiful thing. It’s corn”

We couldn’t agree more, Tariq.

Try these 7 corn pizza recipes for summer or any time

Once July hits and into August and September farm fresh corn on the cob is plentiful in many parts of the United States. Explore summer corn recipes. Since we are Pizza Today, we are sharing corn recipes in the best way, corn on pizza.

Try these seven corn pizza recipes:

  1. Summer Corn Pie

    This is a light, vegetarian pizza that features fresh shucked corn, red onion, green chilies, Cotija and mozzarella cheeses and cilantro.

  2. Pulled Pork & Sweet Corn Pizza

    ToPulled Pork, Sweet Corn, Pizza, recipe, tony gemignaniny Gemignani created this pizza and highlights two summer grilling favorites: pulled pork and sweet corn. The pulled pork is seasoned with brown sugar, orange wedges, Serrano peppers, habanero, tamarind, dark Agave nectar, red bell pepper, white onion, salt & black pepper. The finished pizza pairs the sweet corn and pork with cilantro, salt, queso fresco and a orange wedge.

  3. Big Southwest Beef and Corn Pie with Pepper Jack

    John Gutekanst created this balanced white pie. The pizza features a bechamel sauce, fior di latte mozzarella, pepper jack, southwestern seasoned ground beef, corn and topped with smashed tortilla chips. Watch a how-to video.

  4. Corne Asada Pizza

    Tcarne asada, pizza, street foodhis Corne Asada Pizza recipe came to us from Johnny Gilbreth, co-owner of Pizza Tree in Columbia, Missouri. He created the unique pizza to pay homage to the street taco.

  5. Poblano Corn Pizza

    This pizza is first brushed with a blend of oil and green pepper hot sauce. It pairs sweet corn with roasted Poblano pepper and Cotijo cheese.

  6. Hatch Green Chile Pie

    Audrey Kelly, owner of Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado, created this recipe that pairs sweet corn with Hatch green chilies, roasted garlic and pancetta.

  7. The Whole Package Pizza

    Whole Package Pizza, Chris Decker, pizza recipeChris Decker, managing partner at Metro Pizza and Truly Pizza, recreated those firepit foil packs in pizza form. His creation features kielbasa sausage, potatoes, fresh corn, BBQ sauce and green onion.

This should help you get your kitchen creativity going with how to use fresh summer sweet corn in your restaurant. Try a few of these and don’t be afraid to add your own spin to them.

Do you have a dynamite pizza featuring corn? Share it with @PizzaToday on social.

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Winning Pasta Dishes https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/winning-pasta-dishes/ Fri, 21 Jul 2023 14:39:09 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146123 Thinking of a pasta lineup this fall? Good call! Does the shape of the pasta really matter at the end of the day? Yes, it does! Those little corkscrews, twists and raised ridges all serve a function. They trap in cheese or sauce, giving each bite the diner takes just the right amount of flavor. […]

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Thinking of a pasta lineup this fall? Good call!

Does the shape of the pasta really matter at the end of the day? Yes, it does! Those little corkscrews, twists and raised ridges all serve a function. They trap in cheese or sauce, giving each bite the diner takes just the right amount of flavor. There’s a reason a fettuccine noodle — flat, wide — is commonly paired with a creamy, rich Alfredo. Likewise, Angel hair is a delicate noodle that would be overpowered by a heavy sauce and is therefore often served with olive oil, garlic and herbs.

There are so many varieties of noodles available in the market. While many are similar in appearance (think spaghetti and bucatini), they each bring something different to the table.

One of my favorite pastas is pappardelle. This long noodle is really wide — quite a bit wider than fettuccini —and that helps it stand up really well to a ragu. I’m a big fan of tomato-based meat sauces. A hearty Bolognese needs a hefty noodle. Pappardelle is that hero.

Here are a handful of pasta dishes that I personally love — and I think your customer base will embrace them, too. As we begin to head into fall and think about our end-of-the-year menu, turning some attention to pasta makes sense. High profit, easy to execute and delicious … what’s not to love?

A good Carbonara is one of my personal favorite sauces. It pairs exceptionally well with linguine. Carbonara is so easy to make yourself that you really shouldn’t consider any other option.

Linguine Carbonara

Get the Linguine Carbonara recipe. 

Farfalle is one of my favorite pasta shapes. These little “bow ties” or “butterflies” catch and hold a creamy sauce so well. Try this dish featuring béchamel.

Sausage and Béchamel Farfalle

Get the Sausage and Béchamel Farfalle recipe. 

I mentioned pappardelle earlier. Here’s an inventive recipe that features a roasted red pepper pesto versus a ragu.

Pappardelle with Roasted Red Pepper Pesto

Get the Pappardelle with Roasted Red Pepper Pesto recipe.

Jeremy White is Editor-in-Chief at Pizza Today.

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Thin Crust Pizza — The Crunchy History, Variations and Love https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/thin-crust-pizza-the-crunchy-history-variations-and-love/ Wed, 19 Jul 2023 19:58:35 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146120 Crispy Business: Thin Crust Pizza In the year 365 AD, the Gauls surrounded Rome in a brutal siege, but the inner citadel still held. Roman citizens and soldiers on the walls stared down at the Gauls waiting impatiently in the surrounding swamps but both groups were suffering greatly from famine and disease. On hearing that […]

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Crispy Business: Thin Crust Pizza

In the year 365 AD, the Gauls surrounded Rome in a brutal siege, but the inner citadel still held. Roman citizens and soldiers on the walls stared down at the Gauls waiting impatiently in the surrounding swamps but both groups were suffering greatly from famine and disease. On hearing that the Gauls were as hungry as his Roman citizenry, Roman General Manlius ordered that all the flour left in the storerooms be quickly mixed, rolled and baked into bread. This was then thrown out over the walls at the Gauls showing the enemy that the Romans could care less about food and were not starving. The Gauls soon lost all motivation in conquering Rome thinking it wasn’t worth their time waiting anymore. They left shortly after.

Whether this story is true or muddled by time, the probable bread that was thrown to the Gauls was Panis Strepticius, or “quick bread.” That was unleavened and baked quickly on hot stones and a pre-curser of modern thin-crust pizza. It also mirrors the trickery involved in turning our beloved airy pizzas into crackerlike crusts of today’s ultra-desirable thin pizzas.

Into Thin Air: Factors of Making a Thin Crust Pizza

There are several factors to making a thin crust, as well as numerous techniques to use in getting a thin, crunchy crust. Unlike a nice airy sourdough or puffy direct method dough, these thin crust methods are “all over the place” but many achieve the same goals — thin, crisp, crunchy and strong. Here are some factors in building your own thin crust program.

  • Flour. Most thin-crust pizzas do not have to rely on gluten strength because elasticity is not needed to form a strong gluten net to hold carbon dioxide resulting in large alveoli. Even so, flour with moderate to high gluten strength at low hydration is needed if you plan on putting a lot of cheese and/or topping on the thin crust you are contemplating (but) baking a high gluten/high hydration crust may result in a gooey or moist interior resulting in a super thin crust that is quite leathery. Many thin crusts rely on corn meal to give the pizza that extra textural crunch, but too much of this could disrupt the gluten strands while stretching the dough.
  • Hydration. More water equals more steam in the dough as it heats up, therefore the temperature of the oven is important. A thin crust relies upon dryness for a crunchy texture, and this can be achieved with lower hydration. But even with higher hydration, this can be done with traditional 00 Italian flour doughs at 60-percent hydration by using a lower temperature oven with a longer baking time. It may not have the appeal of a cracker-like, low moisture crust, but it will be thin and dry.
  • Oil. I’ve found that this is an often-overlooked factor in designing a thin-crust pizza as this is all about stopping the hydration of the gluten net. The more water you introduce to the gluten scaffolding in the dough, the more moisture will saturate the interior of your pizza dough, causing steam. By adding oil to the dough, it will coat the gluten strands making them unable to be the hydration sponges as needed for puffy dough. This is best exemplified by the Focaccia di Recco description below which has no hydration and no leavening, only oil.

Full Metal Cracket: Types of Thin Crust Pizza

There are many different types of thin-crust pizzas. Here are just a few from all over the world some are wood fired on stone while others are baked in electric ovens.

  • Focaccia di Recco. Also called Focaccia col Formaggio, this copper pan baked thin crust made with two paper thin sheets of dough over and under 2-inch piles of a young Stracchino cheese like Crescenza or Prescinseua. The dough has no water and only olive oil at 12 to 13 percent which makes for a fatty, strudel-like dough. The dough is topped with more olive oil and sometimes brushed with a mixture of olive oil and water and some bakers add sea salt.  It is baked in large copper pans for a higher heat transfer rate between 475-490 F. Some bakers prefer larger pans up to 30 inches to accommodate awaiting crowds of focaccia lovers.
  • Connecticut Hot Oil Pizza. These pizzas said to originate in 1935 during the depression at the Colony Grill in Stamford, which was owned by Irish Americans but had cooks that were Italian. They were designed to be smaller 12-inch size rather than a large pizza size to fit on the bar. These thin-crust pizzas are distinguished by a thin sauce and cheese followed by a nice slathering of serrano pepper oil all over it and the addition of local sausage.
  • Man ‘oushe’. This Lebanese pizza gets its name derived from the word na ‘sh, which refers to the way the bakers’ fingertips “engrave” the dough. Many different bakeries sell these thin and foldable pies mixed with both bread flour and cake flour at 58 percent hydration. This direct method dough is held from two to four hours at room temperature. The Jibneh wa harr, or “Hot cheese pie” is a favorite which is baked in a 450 F oven with tomato, onion, cumin and hot pepper paste with plenty of ‘Akkawi cheese. Another favorite is the Za ‘tar Man ‘oushe wa jawz, or Wild thyme pie with walnuts.
  • Scrocciarella. Derived from the word Scroccia, (which means “crunch”) This type of Roman pizza style can easily confused with Pizza Tonda, a round, crunchy-stiff but foldable pizza served in Rome. This somewhat complicated name is used to describe other Roman-style crusts that exhibit a cracker crunch (but) an airy interior with large bubbles like Pizza in Teglia cracker-like exterior, baked plain and often looks like a long, very thin, cracker-crusted focaccia made with 50-80 percent hydration with three to six percent olive oil (some prefer seed oil). While some bakers don’t use yeast and others proof for six to eight hours to bake the same day in a non-aggressive wood-fired oven. Other Scrocciarella bakers prefer baking the plain dough after long cold fermentation. These pizzas are popular with Romans and are cut or cracked like crackers and topped with a myriad of toppings like anchovy mayo, artichokes, ricotta, stracciatella, olives and tomato. The name Scrocciarella is also used now as a proprietary flour mix sold by Italmill.   
  • Sardinian Pane Frattau. Initially invented by Sardinian housewives to honor King Umberto I when he visited the island. This magical transformative pizza from Barbagia, a central region of Sardinia is made from one of the thinnest breads in the world called Pane Carasau, or “toasted bread” in Sardinian dialect and called Carta di Musica or “sheet music.” Two thin and brittle sheets of dried bread undergo this transformation to a pasta by an initial soak in vegetable broth then placed on a plate and topped with tomato sauce, Pecorino Sardo and a poached egg.
  • Tarte Flambee’. This Alsatian Pizza is also called Flammekueche in the German speaking Moselle region of Alsace. This is a traditional pizza baked by farmers who baked only once a week and was used to test the heat of their wood-fired ovens. The traditional square or rectangular style is covered with Cream Fraiche or Fromage Blanc, sliced onions and lardons of bacon and baked in a very hot oven for one to two minutes to form a charred crust. Variations include Gratinee or Munster, using Gruyere and Munster cheeses respectively, or Forestier with mushrooms.
  • St. Louis Thin Crust. This thin-crusted pizza is made without yeast producing a thin, cracker-like crust. This pizza is cut into three to four-inch squares, as some would call “tavern-style cut”, some say because a founder of a local chain used to be a tile-cutter, but others say to support the weight of multiple toppings. The distinguishing characteristic of the sauce is said to reflect the Sicilian immigrant influence and is sweeter with a strong oregano flavor. St. Louis style often includes Provel cheese, which is a trademarked cheese combining Swiss, Provolone, and White Cheddar.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

>> Explore answers to more common pizza dough questions in Troubleshooting your Pizza Dough: What’s wrong with my pizza dough? <<

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Man on the Street: Stir Up the Menu Mix https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-stir-up-the-menu-mix/ Tue, 27 Jun 2023 14:08:40 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=146015 When Tom Monaghan took over a struggling pizzeria in Ypsilanti, Michigan, called DomiNick’s in 1960, one of the biggest changes he made (besides changing the name to Domino’s) was to slim down the menu. He reduced the number of pizza sizes he offered and slashed the sandwiches off the menu. Simplicity was his key to […]

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When Tom Monaghan took over a struggling pizzeria in Ypsilanti, Michigan, called DomiNick’s in 1960, one of the biggest changes he made (besides changing the name to Domino’s) was to slim down the menu. He reduced the number of pizza sizes he offered and slashed the sandwiches off the menu. Simplicity was his key to success. Pizzerias across the country live by the mantra of simplicity, but I’ve noticed a trend over the past few years that challenges it. I’m not talking about diner style menus offering everything under the sun, which is usually a recipe for waste, high food cost, low quality food, or all three. The trend I’m seeing is pizzerias offering a single non-pizza specialty item as a way to stir things up and attract fresh business.

Back in 2015, a little Brooklyn pizzeria called Emily made a splash when they introduced a dry aged burger topped with aged cheddar, caramelized onions and house-made “Emmy sauce.” That’s the only burger on the menu. There’s no burger list with options and fixin’s; that’s the burger. Emily is primarily a pizza restaurant, but this burger gave them access to a completely new identity. They scored fresh press coverage from media outlets that had already written about their pizza. Burger fanatics traveled to this tiny pizzeria just to try their burger. It was, and continues to be, a huge hit. Emily and their sister brand Emmy Squared now have over a dozen locations across the country and they all serve a signature burger alongside their Detroit-inspired pizza.

Scott Wiener Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Scott Wiener
Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Pizza is easily my favorite food, but my No. 2 is ice cream. When I find a place that combines the two, I’m in heaven. That’s why I’m such a huge fan of Lovely’s Fifty-Fifty in Portland, OR. Their menu consists of a few small plates, about a dozen seasonal pizzas, and house-made ice cream. That’s it. Like their pizza, the ice cream at Lovely’s Fifty-Fifty rotates with the seasons. They only offer six flavors at a time. In the mind of owner Sarah Minnick, ice cream and pizza are equally important to the restaurant. That’s why she named it Lovely’s Fifty-Fifty; 50 percent about the pizza, 50 percent about the ice cream. If you come to the restaurant for one, you’ll likely stay for the other.

Back to the East Coast, we have to swing by two cosmically good slice shops that have both found success with sandwiches. L’industrie in Williamsburg, Brooklyn and Mama’s Too in Manhattan’s Upper West Side both offer specialty sandwiches every Wednesday. These are slice shops, so they sell pizza to-go, and their only real seating comes courtesy of COVID-era parklets. Both pizzerias spend the week tinkering, then announce the Wednesday sandwich via an Instagram post. They are guaranteed to sell out. Someone who showed up Tuesday for a slice will be back Wednesday for the sandwich.

In the case of L’industrie and Mama’s Too, the limited time element is part of what makes Sandwich Wednesday special. They do it on Wednesday rather than on the weekend to boost an otherwise slow day. When Emily introduced their burger, they only made 25 of them per day. I remember calling the restaurant to find out how many were left as a means of tempering my expectations. The revolving flavor list at Lovely’s Fifty-Fifty gives a reason to keep coming back as the menu changes through the seasons.

Simplicity is extremely important for anyone who wants to maintain consistency, freshness and low food cost — but there’s still room for some excitement from a limited specialty item on your menu.

SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org  Instagram: @scottspizzatours

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Apple Pizza Ideas: Apple Harvest https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/apple-pizza-ideas-apple-harvest/ Mon, 26 Jun 2023 19:03:55 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=145999 Savory or sweet, apples belong on pizza It’s summer and the apple harvest will soon be plentiful. I have a special fondness for apples, growing up wandering my grandparents’ orchard. Today, I look out my office window, a small tree of pink lady apples glimmer in the heat. Growing pink ladies in the Louisville area […]

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Savory or sweet, apples belong on pizza

It’s summer and the apple harvest will soon be plentiful. I have a special fondness for apples, growing up wandering my grandparents’ orchard. Today, I look out my office window, a small tree of pink lady apples glimmer in the heat. Growing pink ladies in the Louisville area is an experiment as these beauties like scorching hot temperatures, giving the fruit a concentration of sweetness. With our increasing heat, pink ladies, also called Cripps Pink, like the climate. I have a Pink Lady harvest at my disposal for simply eating straight off the tree. Pink ladies are great for baking as well.

In addition to Pink Lady, common apple varieties include:

  • Red Delicious are best as a finishing topping and salads. The skin does not hold up well to the heat of a pizza oven.
  • Granny Smith is tart in the best way. While you can use as a finishing ingredient, Granny Smith apples keep their shape while baking.
  • Golden Delicious has the perfect mild and sweet flavor making the apple great for many applications, including sauces.
  • Honey Crisp is a firm and juicy apple — great all-around for baking or post-bake options.
  • Gala is a mild sweet apple that may break down under baking.
  • Fuji is a late season apple that also is best as a post-bake option.
  • McIntosh’s sweet, juicy and tart taste makes it one of the best all-purpose apples.
  • Empire, like McIntosh, is a great all-purpose option.

Sourcing Apples for your Restaurant

You can source a variety of apples through your mainline distributor or retailer. If you are applying a local focus, you can source apples at the farmer’s market or direct from farmers. The best ways to find out who grows apples in your area is to reach out to your county’s extension office or a local growers association. There also may be a local food hub or local farm cooperative in your areas.

How to prevent apples from browning after cutting

Browning happens almost immediately when cutting apples.

Apples can be cored and sliced, diced or even ringed. As soon as you start cutting, you’ll notice the apples begin to brown. It is important to prevent browning while cutting. As you finish cutting apples, place them into a saltwater bath of ¼ teaspoon of salt for every 2 cups water for 10 minutes. You may have to test for the most desired ratio of salt to water. Then drain and store or use.

If you want to add a bit more zing to your apple flavor, try pickling in apple cider vinegar as Chris Decker suggested in his On Deck column: Pork Belly and Honey Crisp Apples Pizza.

Apple peel or no peel? Using apple peels is up to you. It’s a preference thing. There are certain applications where peeling isn’t beneficial, like an apple dessert pizza. For other applications, the peel can add variety to the look of the pizza.

Apple Recipes Across the Menu

If you do not currently have apples on the menu, let’s explore a few recipes to get the most out of your apple purchase and take it across the menu.

I’ll start with an appetizer that will both intrigue your customers and have them ordering the app over and over again. I’m talking about apple chips. The crunchy snack is a great way to warm the palate for pizza consumption. Apple chips are versatile. You can go savory, spicy or sweet. Go crazy and do all three. Here is a savory and spicy version. Be sure to try your own mix.

Spicy Apple Chips

Get the Spicy Apple Chips Recipe.

Before we get to the sweet apple dessert pizza that so many pizzerias are accustomed to, I want to let you in on the savory and sweet combination that makes a dynamite dinner pizza. Since we are located in Kentucky, I’m using country ham. It’s a drier, smoky and saltier ham than typical deli ham. You could also use pancetta here.

Country Ham & Apple Pizza

Get the Country Ham & Apple Pizza recipe.

This is a favorite dessert pizza on PizzaToday.com and for good reason. It brings all the delicious flavors of apple crisp to pizza. Try it today. You can even change it up with a little trick I learned from my mother to include some crushed Red Hot candies.

Caramel Apple Crisp Pizza

Get the Caramel Apple Crisp Pizza recipe.

Denise Greer is the Executive Editor of Pizza Today.

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Banana Peppers, Sweet Piquante Peppers on Pizza: A Peck of Pickled Peppers https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/banana-peppers-sweet-piquante-peppers-on-pizza-a-peck-of-pickled-peppers/ Tue, 30 May 2023 15:50:41 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=145889 Tame banana peppers and sweet piquante peppers pack a flavor punch When it comes to pizza toppings, peppers always add a punch — especially pickled peppers. If you’re looking for a pepper that is mild, while still delivering a lot of flavor, you really can’t go wrong with banana peppers or sweet piquante peppers. They […]

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Tame banana peppers and sweet piquante peppers pack a flavor punch

When it comes to pizza toppings, peppers always add a punch — especially pickled peppers. If you’re looking for a pepper that is mild, while still delivering a lot of flavor, you really can’t go wrong with banana peppers or sweet piquante peppers. They are great for adding complexity to a pizza and cutting through salty meats and cheeses. Both are widely available and if you don’t have the time or labor to make your own pickled version, there are some solid options out there to order. While both have similarities, there are definite differences too.

Banana peppers, also known as the banana chili or a yellow wax pepper, are bright yellow with a mild, tangy taste. As they ripen, they can change to orange, red or green. Regardless of the color, their spice level always remains pretty tame, ranging from 0-500 Scoville units.

Banana peppers are often confused with pepperoncinis, but they are not the same pepper. Pepperoncinis are typically slightly hotter, tangier and have a more wrinkled skin as opposed to the banana pepper’s smooth skin. If you’re looking to buy them fresh, banana peppers are the way to go as they are more widely available and better for stuffing.

Sweet piquante peppers on the other hand, are small, rounder and usually red resembling a cherry
tomato.
Also called Juanita peppers, they originated in South Africa. They are known more for their sweetness than heat but still clock in at 1000-2000 units on the Scoville scale. A pepper that I am currently loving is called a Sweety Drop. It is very similar to a sweet piquante pepper in both color and taste, but it comes from Peru and is the size of a small grape tomato. Since they are so little, you don’t need to cut them (which not only saves on labor, but the juices from the pepper and pickling act like a flavor bomb on a pizza).

Both banana and sweet piquante peppers are great as pizza toppings. So how do you choose one over the other? It depends on the flavor profile you want and how you choose to use them. One thing to keep in mind is where else you are using the peppers on your menu. Both can be used on sandwiches, salads and in dips. Sweet piquante peppers lend themselves better to pestos and are great stuffed with soft cheeses as appetizers. Whereas banana peppers can be used in sauces and dressings.

We make a veggie sandwich with pesto, sweet onions, Brussels sprouts, melted mozzarella and top it with fresh arugula and sweety drops (you can easily sub out sweet piquante peppers). It’s easy to put together and we use all of the ingredients on our specialty pizzas so they are already ready to go. Another popular sandwich to put the peppers to good use is on an Italian sub.

Either pepper lends a great flavor, texture and spice. If you’re looking to add these peppers to your appetizer list, simply stuff sweet piquante peppers with goat cheese, wrap them in prosciutto and drizzle with aged balsamic and basil leaves. Blending sweet piquante peppers with a creamy ricotta and drizzling with extra virgin olive oil is a perfect dip for day-old bread that can be sliced thin and toasted for a starter.

As a pizza topping, I prefer sweet piquante peppers uncooked, added after the pizza comes out of the oven. I think that they maintain their sweet, pungent flavor better and keep a nice crispness. It’s a welcome burst of flavor and can accompany bitter arugula or cut through a decadent burrata.

With their assertive flavor, banana peppers hold up better to being added pre-bake. They mix well being melted into salty cheeses like feta, goat or cheddar. Here are a few pizza combos to get you started:

  • Banana peppers, feta, Kalamata olives, artichokes, mozzarella, pesto.
  • Banana peppers, salami, sauce, mozzarella, basil, Parmesan.
  • Banana peppers, meatballs, ricotta, sauce.
  • Sweet piquante peppers, mushrooms, spinach, roasted sweet onions, pesto.
  • Sweet piquante peppers, prosciutto, arugula, mozzarella, Parmesan.
  • Sweet piquante peppers, fried (or roasted!) eggplant, ricotta, sauce, mozzarella, basil.

While banana peppers have always been a mainstay on pizzeria menus, sweet piquante peppers have gained popularity over the last 15 years. Some of my favorite pizzas I’ve seen recently have these pickled beauties. Ines Glaser of Lupa Cotta in LA recently created a salad pizza detox series and featured a pie with pepperoncini, Capicola, iceberg lettuce, ricotta and Italian American salad dressing. Her pizzas always look fantastic but this one in particular caught my eye. It looked like the perfect pie to elevate any residual winter blues.

Whether you are looking to add a pickled pepper to your menu or just need some fresh ideas of how to use them, there are tons of ways to go. You can make them the star of the show or just use them for a splash of freshness.

Sweet Italian Pizza

Get the Sweet Italian Pizza recipe.

Audrey Kelly owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado.

The post Banana Peppers, Sweet Piquante Peppers on Pizza: A Peck of Pickled Peppers appeared first on Pizza Today.

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Arugula Pizza: a Post-Bake Pizza Topping https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/arugula-pizza-a-post-bake-pizza-topping/ Tue, 09 May 2023 16:51:40 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=145630 Arugula Belongs on Pizza Arugula is a go-to pizza topping Let’s face it, greens go great on pizza. Even people that shy away from some of the heartier greens like kale and chard, can agree that there’s nothing like a handful of arugula to add dimension to a pie. Whereas many greens are better when […]

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Arugula Belongs on Pizza

Arugula is a go-to pizza topping

Let’s face it, greens go great on pizza. Even people that shy away from some of the heartier greens like kale and chard, can agree that there’s nothing like a handful of arugula to add dimension to a pie.

Whereas many greens are better when cooked down on a pizza, arugula shines when it is added post bake for people to relish in all its spicy, crunchy glory.  It is a great addition to almost any pizza if you are looking for a little hit of freshness. Arugula can cut through the saltiness of a loaded meat pie or the creaminess of a four cheese one. It adds a lightness, and the bright green aesthetic makes for an eye catching presentation.   

Arugula is known for its bright, spicy and slightly bitter flavor which becomes more concentrated with age.

There are three varietals of arugula: Arugula Coltivata ( larger leaves and a little more substance), Arugula Ortolani, and Arugula Selvatica (also known as wild smaller leaves with a more intense flavor). Wild and baby arugula are the most popular types to use on pizza due to their size, appearance and robust flavor. First found in Italy where it can be traced back to Roman times, arugula was mentioned by many Roman authors to be an aphrodisiac.  Originally this plant grew strictly in the wild in the spring and fall, but due to its popularity it is now grown commercially year-round.

While you can cook arugula onto a pizza, it doesn’t mean that you should. I am pretty firmly in the camp of adding arugula post-bake. I love the bright crunchy mouth feel and tart, sharpness of the green. Some of which disappears if it is cooked. One of the many great things about arugula is that it pairs well with so many ingredients. You can easily top a white or sauced pie with it and this green is fantastic for lightening up a heavy meat pizza or adding another layer to veggie or vegan pies.

One of my favorite arugula pairings is with a creamy cheese and salty meat, specifically prosciutto.

Our PB & AJ: Prosciutto, burrata, arugula and jam, covers all these requirements. We also use it on our Grateful Veg: roasted sweet onions, Brussels sprouts, mushrooms, sweet piquante peppers, pesto and arugula.

It’s the perfect thing to brighten up a slice by adding a small handful as a garnish or piling it on. We do a lunch special with a slice, salad and drink and a few of our regulars always have us put the arugula salad directly on the slice and eat it as a salad pie.  The fresh lemon, extra virgin olive oil and shaved Parmesan in the salad are the perfect pairing wrapped inside a hot slice.

Here are a few other arugula pizza ideas:

  • Arugula-pistachio pesto, mortadella, mozzarella.
  • Arugula, roasted red peppers, zucchini and summer squash, sweet onions, mozzarella.
  • Arugula, sauce, salami picante, burrata, Castelvetrano olives, mozzarella, drizzle of chili oil.
  • Arugula, wild mushrooms, mozzarella, Grana Padano, oregano, roasted garlic.

There are many other places you can use arugula on your menu and some of them do include cooking the green. If you are putting it in a pasta, it will cook down with the hot dish. It is also great in pestos, complimenting the sweet basil, garlic and salty Parmesan. For this, blanching it is a good idea so that it doesn’t lose its deep green color. Salads are another obvious way to cross utilize it. You can keep it simple or mix it in with other things like spinach or romaine. An arugula salad can be your house special with a simple dressing or you can make it more complex by adding pumpkin seeds, roasted red pepper, artichoke hearts and goat cheese.  I also think that it is a great sandwich topper. The bite that arugula delivers goes great on an Italian sub or a fried eggplant grinder. Another fun way to use arugula is in a stuffed pork tenderloin with sun dried tomatoes, shallots and goat cheese.   

Arugula is easy to prep and store.

Depending on the variety and where you purchase it, many come pre-washed and will keep in the walk in for around five days. If the leaves are small enough for how you are using it, there isn’t even a need to cut it.  If you prefer to buy directly from your local farmers or markets, the varietal you can find will change.

While arugula is available all year round it’s especially good in the spring, with the cooler weather being one of the ideal times to grown the green and also when everyone is tired of heartier comfort foods and ready for something light and crisp.

I know not everyone is an anchovy fan, but this pizza is the perfect segue to wrap up Spring and launch you into Summer. It is fresh, light and bursting with flavor. I use Italian white anchovies which aren’t as intense as the salty brown ones you find in tins. These are a great introduction and go great on a bed of seasoned, spicy arugula with a splash of fresh lemon juice and a good extra virgin olive oil.

The Reel Big Fish

Get the Anchovy and Arugula Pizza recipe now.

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Berries on Pizza: Taste of Summer https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/berries-on-pizza-taste-of-summer/ Thu, 20 Apr 2023 18:13:17 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=145628 Try two standout berry pizza recipes Berries bring versatility to summer menus Summer means berry season. As a child, enjoying a Strawberry Shortcake was the ultimate way to end a backyard family barbecue. Blackberries, blueberries and raspberries aren’t just for smoothies, cobblers and pies, either. In fact, one of my favorite Pizza Today test kitchen […]

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Try two standout berry pizza recipes

Berries bring versatility to summer menus

Summer means berry season. As a child, enjoying a Strawberry Shortcake was the ultimate way to end a backyard family barbecue. Blackberries, blueberries and raspberries aren’t just for smoothies, cobblers and pies, either. In fact, one of my favorite Pizza Today test kitchen creations was thrown together in spur-of-the-moment fashion using berries. (More on that later.) They’re great on pizza  — and not just dessert pizza, mind you.

When we introduced Chris Decker’s monthly recipe column, On Deck, he kicked things off with a recipe we named “Berry Belly.” It featured blackberries, and it was simply divine. The moment I saw the recipe (and subsequently, the photo he submitted along with it), I knew we made the correct choice to succeed Tony Gemignani with the monthly recipe column we run on page 18 each issue. This wasn’t a dessert pizza. Rather, it was a nuanced and balanced dinner pie where the sweetness of the berries played off the saltiness of pork belly and the heat of habanero. Chris nailed it.

There’s absolutely nothing wrong with a blueberry streusel dessert pizza. It hits the spot when the end of a meal calls for something sweet. But let’s leave that to the lunch buffet chains that cater to kids with games. We’re here to elevate and celebrate berries, so we’re gonna do it right!

Berry Pizza Recipes:

Here are a couple of my favorites to get you started on your journey. As always, my aim is for you to get into the kitchen, get your staff involved, and experiment until you hit on something that works for your customer base.

Get the Berry Belly Pizza Recipe

Berry Belly Pizza

Now, let’s elevate our dessert pizza with mascarpone and mint. The combination found in the recipe below is downright decadent. Dessert isn’t always the easiest sell in pizzerias. That shouldn’t be the case with this thing of beauty.

Get the Black & Blue Dessert Pizza Recipe

Black & Blue Dessert Pizza recipe, sweet dessert pizza, blackberries, blueberries,

Jeremy White is Editor-in-Chief  at Pizza Today.

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8 Summer Pizza Toppings to Add to your Menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/8-summer-pizza-toppings-to-add-to-your-menu/ Thu, 20 Apr 2023 15:23:29 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=145626 We have seasonal summer pizza toppings and recipes for you to try Summer Lovin’ Summer is the absolute best time to feature seasonal specials. With an abundance of summer harvest vegetables and fruits, creativity in Amercan’s pizza kitchens will be at an all-time high. We asked our Pizza Today social followers which summer harvest they […]

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We have seasonal summer pizza toppings and recipes for you to try

Summer Lovin’

Summer is the absolute best time to feature seasonal specials. With an abundance of summer harvest vegetables and fruits, creativity in Amercan’s pizza kitchens will be at an all-time high.

We asked our Pizza Today social followers which summer harvest they were most excited about. We look at eight summer ingredients and summer pizza ideas to wow your customers with.

Highly Anticipated Summertime Tomatoes

We can’t talk about summer pizza toppings without highlighting everyone’s favorite summer harvest, tomatoes.There is no better pizza to highlight summer tomatoes than a garden hearty pizza by Tony Gemignani.

Get the Summer Fresh Pizza recipe now.

Tomatillos

Try a unique tomato variety. The husked green tomatillos have a more acidic, tart flavor. Make a salsa verde for your Mexican pizza with tomatillo. Or go with something a little different. Slice tomatillos and spread on sheet. Sprinkle salt, pepper and Tajin seasoning and set aside to allow excess water to draw out. Infuse your olive oil with jalapeno and garlic to use as a base, then add a 60/40 blend of mozzarella and Manchego, pinch chorizo on top and spread tomatillos throughout pizza. Add grated Cotija cheese and bake. After baking, finish with cilantro and a sprinkle of Tajin and pepper.

Summer Corn PieSweet Corn

Whether its Peaches and Cream, Jubilee or Silver Queen, sweet corn is a sought-after summer treat and found in abundance. Make a simple white pie featuring cherry tomatoes and sweet corn and finish with a whipped ricotta or goat cheese. If you want to add a protein, go with pancetta or bacon.

Zucchini

Zucchini is beautiful and flavorful on pizza. Start with an olive oil base and add fresh mozzarella. Slice zucchini ribbons and weave them throughout the pizza, add garlic slices and ricotta. Bake. Then finish with fresh basil, grated Parmesan and a squeeze of lemon juice.

Basil

No summer is complete without fresh basil. The bounty will be plentiful. Find ways to highlight this popular herb. Almost every pizza can be enhanced with a finish of fresh basil. If you want to go basil crazy, use a pesto base and top with fresh mozzarella, roasted tomatoes and garlic and bake. Finish with fresh basil and shaved Parmesan.

Radishes

Radishes are a surprising hit on pizza. Shave them thin and add a crunch to your pizza. Or try a quick pickle with carrots. You can even add some heat with slices of your favorite hot pepper. Make a traditional white pie and finish with thin sliced prosciutto, arugula, pickled radishes, shaved Asiago and a squeeze of lemon.

Berry Belly PizzaBerries

An uncommon pizza topping, berries give pizza a wow factor that other summer produce can’t provide. Berries will be so hot this season that our Editor-In-Chief Jeremy White is dedicating an entire Kitchen feature to berries on pizza. Read his article.

Figs

Figs are a culinary delight on pizza. A few years ago, the creative pizza master John Gutekanst dove into the topic of figs on pizza. You should definitely check out that article “Gettin’ Figgy with It” in our Menu Development archives at PizzaToday.com. This is one of the delectable recipes John provided:

Get the Fig and Gorgonzola Pizza with Prosciutto di Parma recipe.

Denise Greer is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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Block Cheese vs Shredded Cheese https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/block-vs-shredded-cheese/ Fri, 17 Mar 2023 19:48:49 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=145470 Common Question: Should I buy block cheese or pre-shredded cheese? You’ve Got a Friend in Cheeses When it comes to cheese, I’m a blockhead. It’s true, but even blockheads know there are more ways than one to cut the cheese. If you are in the pizza business, you are guaranteed to be faced with this […]

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Common Question: Should I buy block cheese or pre-shredded cheese?

You’ve Got a Friend in Cheeses

When it comes to cheese, I’m a blockhead. It’s true, but even blockheads know there are more ways than one to cut the cheese. If you are in the pizza business, you are guaranteed to be faced with this question: Should I buy block cheese or pre-shredded cheese?

Block cheese comes to you in one big block, or sleeves of smaller blocks. In order to use it on your pizza, you will need to shred it, cut it or dice it. Pre-shredded (or sliced or diced) cheese comes ready-to-use. You just open the bag and put it on your pizza. Is one method of purchasing cheese better than the other? Let’s slice into each method to discover what is best for your wallet, your pizza and your operations — BLOCK CHEESE VS. PRE-SHREDDED CHEESE

 

Price, freshness, whole food, better melt.

These are the advantages of block cheese and the disadvantages of pre-shredded cheese.

• Price. With block cheese you are in control of the price you pay for the product. When purchasing block cheese, here are the steps you would take.

  1. Ask your food distributor for a ‘cost-plus’ contract for your cheese.
  2. ‘Cost-plus’ means that the price you pay per pound of cheese is tied to the Chicago Mercantile Exchange (CME) Block and Barrel Market, or Block Market for short. More at http://www.cheesereporter.com/prices.htm
  3. Perhaps you negotiate to pay 20 cents per pound over the Block Market.
    Block Market Price + .20 = Your cost per pound of cheese
  4. This gives you the best possible pricing for cheese along with full transparency.
  5. With pre-shredded cheese, the manufacturer and distributor arbitrarily set the price based on their costs and profit margin and there is no control point or reference for the price you pay.

• Freshness. Your food distributor manages their inventory in such a way that not only are your block cheeses fresh, but your mozzarella is properly aged (approximately two weeks) before you receive it. You shred the block cheese each day as part of your daily prep, thereby providing the customer with the freshest cheese possible. Fresh ALWAYS tastes better. Pre-shredded cheese has been shredded weeks or longer prior to putting it on your pizza.

• Whole food. Block cheese has no added ingredients. When you purchase pre-shredded cheese, the only way to prevent it from clumping and molding is to add potato starch, corn starch, powdered cellulose, and Natamycin. Block cheese remains a whole food without additives or preservatives. Food and nutritional experts all seem to agree that whole foods are better for you. By using block cheese that you shred daily, you are providing a healthier pizza for your customer.

• Better melt. Block cheese melts better on your pizza in the oven. The more additives and preservatives cheese has, the harder it is for the heat in your oven to break down the protein molecules. Fresh, whole food block cheese has nothing to inhibit the heat from breaking these protein molecules down into a liquid. If you use more than one cheese, this is even more important as the liquidity is what allows the cheese flavors to blend. Pre-shredded cheeses do not melt as consistently as block cheese shredded fresh.

 

Equipment, labor, safety, blend, storage

These are the disadvantages of block cheese and the advantages of pre-shredded cheese.

• Equipment. Shredding your block cheese in your pizzeria requires equipment. Whether you use the least expensive option of a mixer attachment for around $1,000, or more expensive options ranging from $5,000 for manual cheese shredders to $10,000 plus for automatic cheese shredders, there is an investment that the block cheese buyer must make that is not necessary for the pre-shredded cheese buyer.

• Labor. Although you have gotten your block cheese for the lowest price possible, you now have the labor cost of shredding that block cheese. Hourly wages are climbing with no apparent end in sight. By using the attachment to shred cheese, I estimate it costs me .10 per pound to shred. The pre-shredded cheese pizzeria does not have to hire, train and pay an employee to do this. They simply open the bag of cheese and put it on their pizza.

• Safety. Using equipment to shred cheese in your pizzeria means the potential for employee injury. You would not think that someone would put their hand in the shredder, or repair broken equipment with duct tape or bypass the safety features of the equipment to render it easier to use, but it happens. These potential safety dangers are no concern of the pre-shredded cheese pizzeria.

• Blend. Often, pizzeria owners use a blend of more than one type of cheese for their pizzas. Purchasing block cheese means you must purchase each type of cheese by the block, shred it and mix it together yourself. Since this would require employees to do this either during the prep process or on the pizza makeline, the blend the customer receives on their pizza may not be as consistent as a pre-shredded mixed cheeses product done to exact specs by a manufacturer.

• Storage. Block cheese will need to be shredded into plastic tubs, usually the same size tub (full pan) that is used in your pizza makeline, making for an easy swap-out. Where pre-shredded cheese comes in plastic bags requiring no extra tubs, block cheese pizzerias will need to purchase many extra tubs for cheese. On average 30 or more cheese tubs and lids costing roughly $1000.

The following chart sums up the advantages of each:

Block Cheese vs Shredded Cheese

By now, you can probably see why I am a blockhead. The benefits of buying cheese in the block form and shredding it daily outweigh the benefits of buying pre-shredded for my pizzerias. However, it is also clear to see there are benefits to buying pre-shredded. The ‘Big 5’, the pizzerias with the most locations, have all decided that pre-shredded cheese is the way to go. What is the right call for your pizzeria?

Block or Shred? Either way, we all have a friend in cheeses!

Dan Collier is the founder of Pizza Man Dan’s in California and a speaker at International Pizza Expo.

  

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Smoked Cheese on Pizza: Where There’s Smoke, There’s Cheese https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/smoked-cheese-on-pizza-where-theres-smoke-theres-cheese/ Fri, 17 Mar 2023 19:00:37 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=145468 Smoked Cheese adds that ‘wow’ factor to pizza Then we first started blending smoked cheeses with traditional varieties in the Pizza Today Test Kitchen, I was apprehensive. Smoking can easily overpower other flavors. But I was wrong and years later, I’ve savored several pizzas featuring a smoked cheese around the country and at the International […]

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Smoked Cheese adds that ‘wow’ factor to pizza

Then we first started blending smoked cheeses with traditional varieties in the Pizza Today Test Kitchen, I was apprehensive. Smoking can easily overpower other flavors. But I was wrong and years later, I’ve savored several pizzas featuring a smoked cheese around the country and at the International Pizza Challenge that rival some of the best pizzas out there.

Smoke gives cheese a unique and robust flavor. Smoke often serves two purposes with cheese: flavoring and preservation. The deep, smoky flavor can enhance the overall profile of a pizza when balanced correctly.

First, how is cheese smoked? The most common way to smoke cheese is through a cold smoke method. Ice is used to help protect the cheese while the smoke is absorbed into the cheese. Cold smoking occurs with temperatures between 68 F and 86 F as to not cook the cheese but instead infuse the smoke into the outer layer of the cheese. Too hot and the cheese will melt. There are also artificially smoke-flavored cheeses, which impart liquid smoke in the making process.

Did you know you can smoke cheeses in house using the cold smoke method? It is a deep dive into a rabbit hole that may be worth it for some scratch-made pizza concepts. But, for others, there are a number of smoked cheeses on the market for you to test in your kitchens.

Let’s dive into some of the best smoked cheese for pizza.

Creative pizza chefs and makers might get way more adventurous with the variety of smoked cheeses, but here is the smoked cheese starter pack.

  • Mozzarella. The mildest of these smoked cheeses. A great option to give a traditional cheese pizza a boost.
  • Provolone. A semi-hard, mild and smooth cheese, smoking gives Provolone an earthy and slightly smoky flavor.
  • Fontina. The semi-soft cheese is both sweet and pungent so when smoked, it gives Fontina a bolder flavor.
  • Cheddar. The sharp and nutty flavor of cheddar gets earthy notes from the smoke. Go milder for a better melt and less of a punch.
  • Gouda. Many smoked Goudas have a signature brown rind. This creamy, buttery cheese has caramel notes.
  • Scamorza. The mild, rich and somewhat sweet cheese holds a subtle smoky flavor making it a good choice to stand alone on pizza or for blending.

Some other contenders are smoked Colby, Fontina, Swiss, and even goat cheese. It’s up to you what works for your pizza and menu choices.

A few things to remember:

  • A little goes a long way, especially given current cheese prices.
  • Smoked cheese are often better to use over other cheeses for baking.
  • Don’t overload the flavor profile. Be careful with the ratio of smoked cheeses with other strong varieties.
  • Find other uses across your menu. Think mac and cheese, sandwiches, dips, etc.
  • Test smoked cheeses in your day-to-day environment to be sure you select the right melt consistency you are looking for.

 

Here are three recipes to test smoked cheeses in your restaurant:

Sausage, Spinach & Smoked Mozzarella Pizza

BBQ Beef Brisket & Smoked Scamorza Pizza

Chicken Fajita Pizza

Denise Greer is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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Provolone Recipe Favorites https://pizzatoday.com/topics/provolone-recipe-favorites/ Fri, 17 Mar 2023 15:56:35 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=145466 This Cheese is a Rock Star! Get 4 provolone recipes for your pizzeria’s menu If you’re seeking the powerful combination of excellent meltability and versatility, provolone is going to be difficult to beat. A cow’s-milk cheese originating in southern Italy, provolone has a rich history. Sometimes referred to as mozzarella’s “older brother,” provolone has more […]

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This Cheese is a Rock Star!

Get 4 provolone recipes for your pizzeria’s menu

If you’re seeking the powerful combination of excellent meltability and versatility, provolone is going to be difficult to beat. A cow’s-milk cheese originating in southern Italy, provolone has a rich history. Sometimes referred to as mozzarella’s “older brother,” provolone has more depth of flavor than the ubiquitous mozz. An aged cheese, provolone will range from mild to sharper based on just how old it is. It’s obviously a classic choice on pizza, but its uses aren’t limited to just that one dish. There are so many ways to incorporate the cheese on your menu that not carrying the product in a pizzeria seems downright silly.

Here are some of my personal favorite recipes that make use of provolone. These are truly can’t-miss creations on nearly any pizzeria menu!

  1. Monster Mash Pizza

    Get the Monster Mash Pizza recipe.

  2. Philly Cheesesteak Sandwich

    Get the Philly Cheesesteak Sandwich recipe.

  3. Potato, Bacon & Provolone Pizza

    Get the Potato, Bacon & Provolone Pizza recipe.

  4. Chicken Taco Pizza

    Get the Chicken Taco Pizza recipe.

 

Jeremy White is Editor-in-Chief  at Pizza Today.

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Man on the Street: Carbonated Alcoholic Beverages Trending https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-carbonated-alcoholic-beverages-trending/ Mon, 27 Feb 2023 15:11:09 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=145362 Carbonated Beverages: The Essence of Effervescence I’ve been thinking a lot about bubbles lately. The pizza world has long been afloat in a bath of bubbly beverages like soda and beer, but the landscape is rapidly bursting into fresh territory. Not only are the world’s biggest beverage barkers betting big on spiked seltzers and fizzy […]

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Carbonated Beverages: The Essence of Effervescence

I’ve been thinking a lot about bubbles lately. The pizza world has long been afloat in a bath of bubbly beverages like soda and beer, but the landscape is rapidly bursting into fresh territory. Not only are the world’s biggest beverage barkers betting big on spiked seltzers and fizzy wines, but they’re also marketing them directly to pizzerias and pizza consumers.

As it turns out, bubbles are good for your taste buds. They liberate flavor compounds and release volatiles you otherwise may never have detected. Carbonated beverages are a great palate cleanser, particularly when they don’t have strong lasting flavors of their own.

Scott Wiener Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Scott Wiener
Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

That explains an experience I had a few years ago in Parma, Italy. I was judging the Campionato Mondiale della Pizza, which differs from American competitions in that it allows competitors to pair beverages with their pizzas. Just about every pizza maker presented their pizza with Prosecco. At first, I thought they were just trying to get the judges buzzed, but I soon realized the benefits of a dry sparkling wine like Prosecco.

You’d normally think of a beverage pairing as being complementary to the dish with which it’s served, but in this situation the competitors employed Prosecco to cleanse the judges’ palates of whatever they tasted previously. One of my biggest pet peeves is when competitors act as if theirs is the only pizza the judges will be tasting. We end up eating so many salty pizzas covered with sausage and pepperoni that it’s hard for one to stick out from the crowd. Ever since my Parma experience, I always bring seltzer to the judges’ table.

For a white wine alternative to Prosecco, there’s an excellent spumante called Aspirinio. It has a gentle mineral on the tongue but finishes with an exciting citrus note. It’s excellent with white pizzas. One product, called Aspritz, even claims on its label that it’s the “best wine for pizza.” You gotta love it when a wine tells you exactly who it wants to hang with.

As for red wines, there’s a fantastic alternative that’s been popular in Naples for years. Gragnano is Southern Italy’s version of Lambrusco but it’s drier and has smaller bubbles. Drinking it doesn’t feel zesty like seltzer, it’s more of a ticklish sensation. We serve Gragnano on pizza tours and it’s always a hit because it’s both delicious and surprising. I particularly love it with fried pizzas and pizzas with fatty meats.

Now that there’s Italian precedent for calling out bubbly wines as pizza pairings, American companies are starting to get into the game. Los Angeles-based Pie Wine offers three different canned effervescent wines. You can probably tell from the company’s name that pizza consumers are their target market. Pie Wine has a sparkling red wine (similar to Gragnano), a sparkling white (a sweeter Prosecco), and a rose. The company is aiming to own Gen Z with its bright branding and collaborations with YouTube stars and influencers. If one bubbly wine company is betting the farm on pizza, you can be sure more will follow.

It doesn’t take a genius to realize that pizza loves bubbles. Whether it’s a Coke to cut through the greasy cheese of a New York slice or a glass of Prosecco to compliment a more delicate Pizza Romana Tonda, it just works. And let’s not forget that bubbles are FUN! At the end of the day if you’re not having fun while you’re eating pizza, you’re doing it wrong.

SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org  Instagram: @scottspizzatours

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Burrata Pizza Ideas — Burrata Baby https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/burrata-pizza-ideas-burrata-baby/ Thu, 23 Feb 2023 17:44:17 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=145337 It’s difficult not to fall in love with Burrata Explore 3 Burrata Pizza Recipes or as long as I have enjoyed pizza, pepperoni has been my favorite topping. I’m not alone — it’s the most popular topping in the United States, after all. There’s just something about the interplay between the sauce, cheese and pepperoni […]

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It’s difficult not to fall in love with Burrata

Explore 3 Burrata Pizza Recipes

or as long as I have enjoyed pizza, pepperoni has been my favorite topping. I’m not alone — it’s the most popular topping in the United States, after all. There’s just something about the interplay between the sauce, cheese and pepperoni that tantalizes the taste buds. When I discovered cup-and-char pepperoni, it was a game changer. Ditto for soppressata. Give that to me on my pizza every day and twice on Sunday, please!

For most of my pizza consuming life, no ingredient rivaled pepperoni to me. Then one day I had my first burrata pie. Another one of those “aha” moments. The light bulb went off and I was hooked. Don’t get me wrong, pepperoni still rules my personal pizza world. But burrata, baby — it’s right there in my mind too.

While there are cost considerations (price accordingly!), burrata’s creamy texture gives pizza an unrivaled mouthfeel. Pair it with the right ingredients and it’s sheer magic.

fennel sausage and burrata pizza recipe

Fennel Sausage and Burrata Pizza

That’s exactly what Tony Gemignani does at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana in San Francisco. His “Mortadella E Burrata” exquisitely meshes pistachio mortadella, smoked mozzarella, burrata, smoked provolone, tomato, volcano salt and lemon. Then there’s the “Squash Blossom & Burrata” that features ricotta stuffed squash blossoms, burrata, prosciutto di Parma, crushed red pepper, mozzarella and shaved Parmigiano Reggiano. Burrata is also found numerous other times throughout Tony’s menu, but my personal favorite is his “Burratina Di Margherita.” It was the Gold Cup winner at the International Pizza Championships in Lecce, Italy, and for good reason. This pizza is beautiful and vibrant in its simplicity — burrata, cherry tomatoes tossed with fresh basil, extra virgin olive oil and balsamic reduction. It’s perfect!

Let’s move from California to Colorado, where Pizza Today contributor Audrey Kelly has Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage. There’s a real beauty on her menu that she calls the “PB & J.” This pizza partners prosciutto with burrata, arugula, jam, extra virgin olive oil and mozzarella. To boot, Audrey makes it available on New York and Sicilian styles, as well as gluten free.

Burrata’s ultra-creamy texture is what makes it so appealing. Its balanced taste will allow you to pair it with savory, sweet, you name it. It’s a canvas open to your interpretation, and that’s exciting to any creative type. So, use the combinations from Tony and Audrey for inspiration, but don’t be afraid to play around until you find what best meets your needs. In the meantime, here are three burrata pizza recipes I love to help get you started.

  1. Fennel Sausage & Burrata Pizza
  2. Butternut Squash & Burrata Pie
  3. Balsamic Burrata & Olive Oil Caviar Pizza

Jeremy White is Editor-in-Chief of Pizza Today.

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Increase check averages with irresistible garlic knots, garlic bread, garlic breadsticks https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/increase-check-averages-with-irresistible-garlic-knots-garlic-bread-garlic-breadsticks/ Wed, 22 Feb 2023 21:12:27 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=145335 Tie the Knot Garlic Appetizers like garlic knots, garlic bread, garlic breadsticks are menu favorites Next to pizza, garlic appetizers are one of the top selling items at pizzerias. They are simple to make, and even if you don’t have excess dough to use up, you most likely have all of the ingredients necessary already […]

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Tie the Knot

Garlic Appetizers like garlic knots, garlic bread, garlic breadsticks are menu favorites

Next to pizza, garlic appetizers are one of the top selling items at pizzerias. They are simple to make, and even if you don’t have excess dough to use up, you most likely have all of the ingredients necessary already prepped and ready to go.

The type of garlic app — knots, bread, sticks and rolls — you choose to serve at your shop depends a lot on what type of restaurant it is and the dough you make. If you consistently have dough leftover at the end of the night, garlic knots might be a great way to make use of it. On the other hand, if you have an oven with a steam element and make your own bread/rolls, garlic bread is a no brainer. If you have more of a sit-down restaurant and want something to put on the table while people order drinks and food, garlic sticks might be just the thing you’re looking for.

Once you’ve decided on what you want to make, there are lots of different ways you can go about it. The first component to think about, and I would argue one of the more important, is your base. What dough you will use, how you proof it, what shape to cut it into and how much dough to use are all things to take into consideration. Another important aspect is how you cook it: bake or fry. If you’re making garlic bread, it goes without saying that you should proof your rolls and bake them off before turning them into the actual garlic bread.

Knots can be a little trickier. Since a lot of the time, they are baked to order, you want to make sure that they are cooked all the way through. That being said, everyone knows how chaotic it can get on a Friday night with a double stacked ticket line and an oven full of pizzas. So here are a few things to help make this appetizer an easy and delicious option for your menu:

  • Par-bake before service. This way the knots are almost fully baked and only need a few extra minutes in the oven before being tossed in garlic, fat and other toppings.
  • Make smaller knots. smaller knots mean less cooking time.
  • Turn down the heat. keep one deck of your oven at a lower temperature and bake the knots in that deck for a longer period of time. For example: we have a three deck oven and we keep the top two at 650 F for our NY style pies and the bottom at 575 F for our Sicilians, grinders, slices, roasted veggie sides and garlic rolls.
  • Put a tent on it. Tent some foil over your rolls as they go in the oven to trap and circulate the heat, removing at the end to crisp up the knots.
  • Master the tie. Melissa Rickman, from Wholly Stromboli says: “If tied correctly, you will have a little well in the center of our knots which holds a little bit of garlic butter sauce and the tails are my favorite part!”

Once you have your perfectly proofed and cooked knots, rolls or sticks, it’s all about getting the fat and garlic just right to create your ideal flavor profile. In other words, what are you going to coat your rolls in and are there any additional toppings such as cheese or fresh herbs that you want to add? If you are making garlic bread, all of the toppings will be slathered in the middle of the roll instead of tossed and melted on top. Of course, you know there will be garlic, fat and likely cheese, but there are a lot of different routes you can go with these components.

  • Garlic. Fresh, roasted, granulated, powdered, fried or dried.
  • Fat. Extra virgin olive oil, vegetable oil, butter or even lard.
  • Cheese. Parmesan, Pecorino, melted mozzarella, goat cheese, gorgonzola (the options are really endless).
  • Herbs, spices, chiles or veggies. Dried, fresh, pickled, cooked or raw.

After you’ve decided on your toppings, you can pick what to dunk them in. You can go with the classic marinara or get more creative with sauces like honey, pesto or even ranch.

As you can see, there are so many different ways to put your own twist on a seemingly basic item and not every garlic appetizer is created equal. Spencer White, from Redeemer Pizzeria, says that garlic knots are one of their best-selling items. They have become so popular that their staff and regulars have nicknamed them “knotty Bois.” The secret to their success? “We take our dough and fold it around a piece of mozzarella and deep-fry that. When they come out of the fryer they are light and airy like beignets with melted cheese in the middle. We then toss them in garlic butter, Pecorino cheese and chopped parsley,” says White.

Aside from being served as a straight up appetizer, garlic knots have other creative uses. One example is to line one side of a pizza with knots. Rickman puts on a Garlic Knot Golf Tournament that benefits charity every year. Instead of golf balls, garlic knots are hit in their place.

Whether you make your garlic appetizers with straight up garlic, fat and cheese or add a spunky twist to them, they are great for rounding out your menu and boosting your sales.

Calabrese Chile Garlic Knots

Get the Calabrese Chile Garlic Knots recipe.

Audrey Kelly owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado.

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How to source and prepare chicken for your Restaurant https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/how-to-source-and-prepare-chicken-for-your-restaurant/ Wed, 22 Feb 2023 19:46:47 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=145334 Winner Winner Chicken Dinner Hot Tips on Serving Chicken in a Restaurant Chicken sandwiches are not the only poultry centered menu item soaring in popularity these days. And even though chicken has long had a presence on pizzeria menus, there has been a renewed love of chicken on pizza. With chicken prices at an all-time […]

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Winner Winner Chicken Dinner

Hot Tips on Serving Chicken in a Restaurant

Chicken sandwiches are not the only poultry centered menu item soaring in popularity these days. And even though chicken has long had a presence on pizzeria menus, there has been a renewed love of chicken on pizza.

With chicken prices at an all-time high, you might be tempted to take it off your menu altogether, but remember this: consumers are well aware of what it costs to buy groceries, including chicken. To make this decision, it is important to understand the mindset and behavior of your customer base. In my experience, people are still spending money, and a lot of it. They are not shying away from $68 pizzas, but what they expect in return is quality and value.

A good quality chicken breast speaks for itself and means that you can expect your guests to pay a fair price. Conversely, tough, gristly or dry chicken is a poor argument for rising menu prices.

What you must ask yourself is, is it more offensive to your guests for you to charge appropriately for grilled chicken, or take it off the menu altogether? When I engineered our latest menu, I found that a pizza with the least amount of protein on it (chicken) carried the highest COGS. I seriously considered taking it off the menu, but instead, I increased the price, and it is now one of my best selling 10-inch pizzas.

I also discovered that most of the 20-inch pizzas I was selling were one topping, BYOs — rarely specialty pies, and never chicken on its own. This meant that the bulk of the specialty pies featuring chicken were 10 inches and carried a much better profit margin than 20-inch pies. This prompted the decision to only offer our specialty pies as a 10-inch. If a guest would like to build their own 20-inch specialty pizza, they certainly can, but at the build your own price. This more than adequately meets my target margin when chicken and other expensive proteins are chosen.

All chicken breasts are not created equal, therefore even in the face of supply chain issues, consistency is key! While less expensive — lower-quality chicken breast may seem like a good deal on its face, you may find more “funny business,” which requires more trimming and yields less usable product. Lower-quality chicken breasts can also be injected with saltwater to make them appear larger but tend to shrink considerably when cooked and can be dry and tough. Using higher quality, larger chicken breasts, even if you are not serving them as an entree, will cook more evenly and will be juicier than smaller breasts. A larger breast can stand up to the process of being reheated on a pizza which opens the opportunity for cross utilization on sauté, pantry and dough products. Using a better-quality chicken breast may be a little more expensive, however fewer operators are using them, which may help with availability. I also never allow unapproved substitutions of my key items including chicken. Although I have an approved substitution just in case we run into an issue, I still want the heads up from my broad liner that we will have to make the temporary change.

Quality assurance is important in all things. Our line cooks are encouraged, if not required, to taste everything they prepare, and this goes double for chicken. There is a phenomenon in the chicken business called “woody breast”. It is an unforgettable texture that is created by the mass production of chickens, and it can spoil your appetite. While it can happen with any chicken breast it is less common with higher-quality chicken.

When I am thinking about adding chicken to a pizza, I want the chicken to stand out. Chicken in and of itself does not taste like much. It is really the spices that you prepare it with that shines through. For me, quality and flavor profile are more important than the convenience of a precooked and diced chicken breast. Therefore, I use IQF chicken breasts seasoned with a dry rub then grilled for use in salads and pasta dishes. I minimize waste by then taking the unused grilled chicken from the previous shift to use on the pizza line.

I do not recommend using raw chicken anywhere on the pizza line. The opportunity for cross contamination is too risky and won’t really add anything to the finished product.

Another way to reduce your cost on a pizza featuring chicken is to combine it with other lower cost ingredients that pack a lot of flavor. For example, you could use a white sauce or even cream cheese as your base, add grilled chicken, fresh sliced jalapeños, red onion, fresh diced mango and cilantro. None of those ingredients are terribly high in cost and it makes for an interesting specialty pie. Think about what goes well with chicken. One of my favorite pies was a pesto pinwheel pie made with high-quality olive oil, provolone, grilled chicken, pesto and roasted red pepper. The big flavors of the other ingredients are a nice compliment to the grilled chicken, requiring less of the expensive protein.

Because chicken is rather neutral in flavor, it can be paired with a multitude of unique flavors and sauces. At Wholly Stromboli the newest star on our summer menu is “The Queens Hot Honey”, featuring a cream cheese base, Italian hot sauce, provolone cheese, grilled chicken, sweet picante peppers, drizzled with our house made hot honey, and finished with fresh basil. It is a favorite with team members and guests alike – so don’t be a chicken! Give chicken a crack on your next menu!

Try the 10-inch Queens Hot Honey with two ounces cream cheese sauce or your favorite white sauce, Italian hot sauce that is pinwheeled over the cream cheese, four slices Provolone cheese, four-ounce scoop diced grilled chicken, two-ounce scoop sweet picante peppers, hot honey drizzled before and after the bake (we make our hot honey in house.) and finished with fresh basil.

MELISSA RICKMAN is co-founder of Wholly Stromboli in Fort Lupton, Colorado, and member of the World Pizza Champions.

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Pulled Pork Barbecue Pizza is a Can’t-Miss Hit https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/pulled-pork-barbecue-pizza-is-a-cant-miss-hit/ Tue, 31 Jan 2023 19:38:32 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=145054 Pulled to Perfection What do you consider the “taste of summer?” When the days are long and hot and the kids are out of school and thoughts turn to vacations and swimming pools and baseball … what foods do you typically enjoy? Burgers on the grill, hot dogs and ice cream certainly all come to […]

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Pulled to Perfection

What do you consider the “taste of summer?” When the days are long and hot and the kids are out of school and thoughts turn to vacations and swimming pools and baseball … what foods do you typically enjoy? Burgers on the grill, hot dogs and ice cream certainly all come to mind. It’s really not summer without those items at backyard BBQs. But, for me, there’s another must have as well: pulled pork barbecue.

A summer ritual for me is to start the day early by seasoning a Boston butt that I’ve brined the night before. With apple cider vinegar, apple juice and simple seasonings on hand, the pork will then go in my smoker where it slowly transforms into one of my summertime favorites over the course of the day. I periodically brush it with the apple cider/apple juice mixture, and about four hours in I wrap it in foil to trap in the steam and continue letting time and the low heat do its thing.

It isn’t terribly difficult to perfect after a bit of practice. Chef Google once told me to let it rest for an hour or two in my Yeti cooler (still wrapped in the foil) before pulling it. I tried it out and the results were outstanding.

Once the pork is pulled, there are so many options. Because I often smoke an 8-pound Boston butt (by the way, the “butt” is actually part of the shoulder, which many people find confusing), there are always plenty of leftovers. But I have a cycle, a 1-2-3 flurry of dinner punches that makes my summer delightful.

Day one I make pulled pork BBQ sandwiches. I like virtually every style of barbecue, so you can find a variety of sauces, mustards and vinegars on my picnic table. Day two I used the leftovers for pulled pork tacos. Not gonna lie — these might be my favorite. But day three is when pizza is king and shines in my home kitchen. My sourdough pizza dough has been bulk fermenting in my fridge the last two days (it went in the day I first pulled the pork for sandwiches), and it’s now ready in all its glory.

This is summer pizza night. There’s no pepperoni, sausage, green olives — the toppings we usually use when hosting a small group of friends or doing a family pizza night. No, tonight we’re using a sweet and tangy barbecue sauce as the base, followed by pulled pork, jalapenos or banana peppers and a blend of smoked cheddar and smoked mozzarella. Some other great toppings for this pizza might include red onion, coleslaw (applied after the bake), creamy dollops of chevre, sweet summer corn, habanero peppers or even fresh summer peaches. Yes, you read that correctly. Fresh summer peaches are amazing with pulled pork barbecue! Don’t believe me? Try it and prepare to have your mind blown.

Why am I talking about this in February? Well, just as Chris Decker said in his recipe column, the cold and gray winter weather has me dreaming of the summer days ahead. Secondly, you’re likely deep into planning your spring menu right now, which means getting on your summer menu is just around the corner. Thirdly, while I’m being overly romantic about summer at the moment, the fact of the matter is that pulled pork barbecue, just like pizza, is a comfort food that we enjoy year-round. So, there’s no need to wait until summer to roll out a limited time offering or to make a permanent addition to your pizza lineup should you find success with your customers with this one.

The beauty of pulled pork is that you can use it on pizza in so many ways. Challenge your kitchen crew to experiment and have fun. Perhaps offer an incentive to the staffer that wows you the most with a creation that makes your menu. It’s a pleasant winter diversion that just might result in something big.

As a base of inspiration, here is one of my favorite pulled pork barbecue pizza recipes. I like a sweet and tangy barbecue sauce or a smoky and savory sauce for this one, but play around here to see what you like. Enjoy!

Pork & Peach

Get the Pulled Pork and Peach Pizza recipe.

JEREMY WHITE  is Editor-in-Chief of Pizza Today.

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Judgement Day: the Excitement of the International Pizza Challenge’s Traditional Pizza Competition https://pizzatoday.com/topics/judgement-day-the-excitement-of-the-international-pizza-challenges-traditional-pizza-competition/ Tue, 31 Jan 2023 16:35:35 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=145035 Nothing is more challenging than competing in the traditional pizza category in the International Pizza Challenge in Las Vegas. As a Pizza Expo competitor, your culinary perspective and craftsmanship is judged by chefs and professionals by comparing your pizza against hundreds of others made of the same basic ingredients. Drew Richards has led hundreds of […]

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Nothing is more challenging than competing in the traditional pizza category in the International Pizza Challenge in Las Vegas. As a Pizza Expo competitor, your culinary perspective and craftsmanship is judged by chefs and professionals by comparing your pizza against hundreds of others made of the same basic ingredients. Drew Richards has led hundreds of contestants through the baking process of the competition. He says, “True masters of the craft excel in this category because there is nothing to hide behind.” Jeremy Galvin, International Pizza Challenge Lead Coordinator, says “The biggest mistake competitors make in the Traditional Category is overdoing their pizza. If you look back, the typical winning pizzas are super simple.” Domenico Crolla, Chef/Owner of Oro in Glasgow, Scotland ,has won numerous competitions and judged hundreds of pizzas. He says, “The first thing about the traditional category is that it is the traditional American pizza. It is a difficult category to win. In other competitions you can shine and stand out with something original. But in traditional, you are all using the same ingredients, so it is down to your crust, sauce and bake.”

Ruling Class

In the Las Vegas Pizza Challenge, traditional does not mean mediocre. Pizzas in this category must have that “Something,” that wow factor. Be it in the crust, the way it is cooked, the quality, mix and melt of the cheese or the freshness of the tomato sauce. Let us delve into the rules first.

The Traditional Competition Rules:

Use your own dough.

Use your own cheese blend.

Must be a red sauce.

Must be 12-18 inches only.

No more than TWO of these toppings: pepperoni, sausage, bacon, ham, mushrooms, peppers, tomatoes, onions and olives. (Note: TWO kinds of the same ingredient will be judged as ONE topping. (Example: green and red peppers.)

Only extra virgin olive oil is allowed after the oven. No other finishers are allowed including cheese, herbs or sauces.

These rules seem very straightforward. But every year people get disqualified or scored low because they push the rule limits. While competing, you must know what you do not know. You do not know the judges or how strict their interpretation of your pizza will be. After six years as Master of Ceremonies for the Traditional Pizza Challenge in Las Vegas, I have some secrets and musings that I would like to share that could mean victory or defeat. Here we go…

Some judges may think that your fabulous Duck Sausage is technically not sausage.

That flourish of basil across the top of your pizza will get it disqualified.

That spinach or cheese infused dough may be seen as a topping.

That mushroom mousseline may not be seen as appropriate by purist judges.

A plate presented with arugula, watercress, and 20-dollar bills is a “no no.”

That red sauce means tomatoes. Your red pepper-kidney sauce may be too much.

Your 12-cheese pile melting like a snow drift on your crust may be too much.

Your Prosciutto di Parma is ham, which is allowed. But are the judges from Italy? Japan? United States? Poland? What is their interpretation of “ham?”

Is your pepperoni top of the line with natural casings causing a nice cup, or is it a cheap flaccid pepperoni?

Does your pizza have a gum line?

Those anchovy-stuffed olives are delicious and guaranteed to put your pie in the disqualified category.

Will your slice stay straight and not flop when the judges hold it by the crust?

Behind the Curtains

Any sales manager will tell you that the first step to success is communication. The traditional competition starts with a blind tasting, meaning you will not see the judges. Your only communication lifeline is a written description on an index card. Here are some more tips to get your foot in the door.

Always send your pizza that is headed behind the curtains with a short, concisely written sales pitch.

If your handwriting is terrible, get someone else to write this.

This pitch should be as informative as possible.

Judges do not want to see sauce or cheese companies’ names used. They may sponsor you, but naming them is insignificant at best.

Good things the judges like to see are house-made sauce, in-house made charcuterie, preferments and artisan flours and techniques. (BUT ONLY if they follow the above-mentioned rules.) Chris Tricarichi, Managing Partner, Avalanche Pizza, and frequent traditional pizza judge says: “Even though many of the pizzas are made with all the best ingredients, a lot of them taste the same because they use the same companies. To elevate your traditional pizza, the quality, technique and seamless execution of the crust will make the pizza stand out.” Master of Ceremonies, Theo Kalogeracos, adds this: “Even in the traditional category, you need to be innovative to stand out.”

Shake and Bake

The bake. Year after year, I see the best professionals in the pizza business falter at the ovens because of nervousness. Rushing, distraction, over and under baking or allowing other contestants to open oven doors to release heat repeatedly ruins their traditional bake.

Be prepared. The best pizza competitors bring almost everything, going over all they need time and time again. Never, ever think you will find a slicer on the show floor or that a mixer will be available. The crew that you bring to Vegas must be detail-oriented and serious. I have seen some wonderful pizza people frantically running in the back for a spoon after their helpers wander away from the area to talk to others. This just adds to the stress of the whole situation.

Confidence: When you make it to the finals (and I truly hope you all do), you must confront the judges face to face. The confidence and communication you show to them will set you apart from the apprehensive rookies. Speaking clearly while showing your masterpiece to all the judges is especially important. This is where your game shines. This is the pinnacle of your profession. Your craftsmanship and your pizza must be the best in the world. 11-time pizza champion Bruno di Fabio put it perfectly when he said, “Go in like a Viking.”

A winning Sausage and Pepper Pizza

This pizza starts with the Pain a’ l’ Ancienne method for the dough. This cold and long fermented dough was first introduced to me by Master Baker Peter Reinhart in his book The Bread Baker’s Apprentice. The cold prohibits the yeast from activating and affords the enzymes a chance to break down complex carbohydrates into sugars. This creates a rich flavor and killer caramelization. The sauce is a house made chunky tomato sauce using the best sweet California pear tomatoes to be had. The cheese blend is designed to play with the fatty sausage and is a 50/50 blend of mozzarella and provolone with a touch of sour Asiago. The sweet fennel sausage is house made with no nitrates and has a spicy component; it is placed on raw to draw out the natural juices to cover the pie and meld flavors while the green peppers are cooking.

Get the Winning Sausage and Pepper Pizza recipe.

JOHN GUTEKANST owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Keeping Chicken Wings on the Menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/keeping-chicken-wings-on-the-menu/ Tue, 31 Jan 2023 15:22:58 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=145034 Can You Wing It? The debate about whether to offer chicken wings is a hot topic among operators and not just a post-pandemic issue. Pricing and availability of chicken wings has been a long-standing issue for pizzeria operators. Chicken wings may very well cost more per pound than a high-quality chicken breast, and that’s on […]

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Can You Wing It?

The debate about whether to offer chicken wings is a hot topic among operators and not just a post-pandemic issue. Pricing and availability of chicken wings has been a long-standing issue for pizzeria operators. Chicken wings may very well cost more per pound than a high-quality chicken breast, and that’s on a typical day. Don’t even think about stocking up the week of the big game, you’ll be hard-pressed to find chicken wings. And if you do, you’ll have to take out a second mortgage on your family home just to buy them.

So why offer wings at all? Wings are hot! The people want wings! They are, in most cases, gluten-free, high protein, and naturally low carb, and there are so many ways to make them uniquely yours! From traditional hot to sweet and tangy, hot wings are here to stay. But are they right for your operation?

Here are some things to consider when deciding to put wings on the menu:

Storage

If you are working with a raw chicken wing, they must be stored below any ready-to-eat ingredients in your cooler. This can present some challenges in a kitchen with limited space. IQF (individually quick frozen) wings on the other hand may be easily stored in your freezer, but, well, they’re frozen so you will need to factor that into your cook time.

Size Matters

Assuming that you are looking to provide value to your guest, you will want a wing with some substance, some meat on the bone, so to speak. A jumbo wing, 6 to 10 per pound, makes for a hearty, eye-catching wing. Depending on your choice of preparation methods, it could take up to 20 minutes for a jumbo wing to reach a safe internal temperature and be nice and crispy on the outside.

Preparation

Perhaps one of the more common methods of preparation is the deep fryer, which yields a nice crispy texture on the outside. Deep frying your wings can take longer than other methods. On average, deep fryers are set to 300-350 F, which may be great for French fries or chicken Parm, but makes for longer chicken wing cook times. Beware, deep frying can sometimes cause the meat to shrink and pull back from the bone… but delicious nonetheless.

If you are considering the deep fryer method, ask yourself if you have the fryer space to devote to wings. If you’re selling great wings, you can assume that at least one fryer basket will be devoted to wings. How will this affect your ticket times for other menu items? Another thing to consider is that wings are hard on fryer oil. You will be cleaning and replacing fryer oil more often, increasing the expense of labor and product.

I turned to my teammates, World Pizza Champions Anthony DeSouza of Antonio’s Real New York Pizza in Estes Park, Colorado, and Jeff Smokevitch of Brown Dog Pizza in Telluride, Colorado, to see what they are doing to solve the challenges of the chicken wing. Anthony invested in an infrared broiler and reduced his cook time from 20 to 8 minutes. This was a significant investment but a total game-changer for him. Jeff offers wings prepared two ways, deep fried from raw, with a prep time of about 20 minutes, or his Jerk wings, which are par grilled ahead of time, finished on the griddle to order, and are hot and ready in 10 minutes.

If neither of these methods works for your operation, you can run them through a conveyor oven or even bake them off in a deck oven. Neither are lightning fast, nor do they provide the crispiness that the some other methods offer, but they get the job done!

Pricing

Price fluctuations in the wing market are the nature of the beast. It is nothing new, although it is more pronounced these days. Many operators have adopted digital menus using QR codes instead of print menus, which has led the way to dynamic pricing. There are no menus to reprint, just update the digit file and upload it!

QR codes and digital menus allow operators to update menu prices based on the market price and is a great way to keep your target cost of goods in line. While many guests have adapted to viewing restaurant menus this way, some have not, so digital menus may only be a solution for some concepts. Beware that there are people who can’t read the mobile version of your menu on their phones or just like to hold and look at a print menu. At best, digital menus could be an inconvenience for them, at worst, this could lead them to not return — but you know your customers best.

If dynamic pricing and QR codes aren’t for you, know that your food cost is going to be an average of your entire product mix. While your food cost on wings could be upwards of 40 percent, you can balance that with your pizza and pasta dishes in the neighborhood of 10-12 percent.

Sauces and Rubs

Wings can be an outlet for your culinary creativity or to add variety to your menu. Use fresh ginger, chili sauce, honey, brown sugar and dark soy sauce to make sticky sweet Asian wings, or blend balsamic reduction, minced garlic, and minced Serrano pepper to make a hot and sweet Italian-inspired wing sauce.

If you fancy dry rubs, you can purchase an IQF frozen rotisserie wing that comes pre-seasoned and then toss them in the desired sauce after they’re fully cooked. If you decide to make your own dry rub, it is best to par broil, grill or bake the wings before frying as the dry rub tends to come off in the deep fryer. The possibilities are endless! With all of this said, I always try to minimize adding skews to my inventory, so I like to use ingredients that I already have on hand.

In summary, if you are going to wing it, be aware of your storage space, the impact that adding a new menu item will have on your ticket times.

Don’t forget to have fun and stay true to your brand!

MELISSA RICKMAN is co-founder of Wholly Stromboli in Fort Lupton, Colorado, and member of the World Pizza Champions.

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Meatball Madness: Creative Meatball Recipe Ideas https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/meatball-madness/ Tue, 31 Jan 2023 15:07:39 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=144863 The versatility of meatballs Meatballs are one of those essential items at a pizzeria. Whether you make them in house or get them pre-made, a good meatball adds a lot to your menu. Often, the biggest issue we have with meatballs at my shop is making enough of them. One of the great aspects of […]

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The versatility of meatballs

Meatballs are one of those essential items at a pizzeria. Whether you make them in house or get them pre-made, a good meatball adds a lot to your menu. Often, the biggest issue we have with meatballs at my shop is making enough of them.

One of the great aspects of meatballs is their versatility. They can be utilized in many different ways, such as a main course, on top of pasta, as a side dish, on a sandwich, on a pizza or in a soup. They can even be turned into meatball sliders. My family takes the “dough” and makes meatball hamburgers and even meatloaf. It is the one version of meatloaf that I actually enjoy. There are also endless flavor combinations that you can create.

Whether you want a more traditional version or prefer to put a creative spin on them, meatballs are the perfect canvas to convey your vision. Simply by changing up the spices, herbs, meat and even starch can drastically change your signature meatball. While it might seem like a small thing, the size is also an important factor to consider when designing your meatball. The presentation, use and cooking time all vary depending on how big they are. For example, if you are making soup, roll them into miniature shapes for bite size flavor bombs. For creating a main dish, go for a giant meatball. No matter what kind of meatball you decide to make, there are a few essential components to ensure they come out moist, tender and flavorful every time.

Different components of a meatball

• The Meat. Traditionally, meatballs are made out of a combination of beef and pork with a healthy amount of fat. Just because this is the way your grandmother made them doesn’t mean you can’t venture in your own direction. There are plenty of reasons to try out other meats. One big reason that I’ve run into is that a good portion of the population doesn’t eat pork, and the majority of meat pizza toppings are pork-based or fully pork. Think pepperoni, the majority of sausages, prosciutto, most salami, bacon, pancetta, and guanciale to name a few. It’s nice to be able to offer your customers who want a meat option but don’t eat pork a tasty option. Another reason to pick a different type of meat is if you want the other flavors to really come through. Choosing something with a very tame flavor like chicken or turkey gives you a blank canvas for other flavors to assert themselves. On the other hand, gamey meats like lamb or bison lend themselves well if you want that taste in the forefront.

• The Starch. I like to use bread crumbs in my meatballs. That being said you can also use Panko, almond flour (if you’re going for gluten free) or nothing at all. I know people who soak their stale bread in milk to create a more tender meatball. I really think the starch and preparation depends on how you are utilizing your meatballs. We bake ours off in the morning and keep them in a warmer with sauce to be spooned onto a sandwich or as a side dish. For this reason, I don’t want them to fall apart, otherwise it just become a pot of bolognese. If you are baking them to order or topping pasta with them, you probably want a more delicate, melt in your mouth meatball as opposed to one with some chew.

• The Binder. While starch helps to bind the meat, eggs or an egg replacement is also very important.

• The Spice. Once you’ve decided on your flavor profile, you can go about procuring your spices. If you want a more traditional tasting meatball, think along the lines of fennel seeds, garlic and onion powder and oregano. Keep in mind if you are buying bread crumbs as opposed to making your own, they usually have added salt and spices already so make sure you adjust your recipe accordingly.

• The Herbs and Vegetables. I like to add fresh garlic to my meatballs. You can also chop up some fresh parsley or onion. You don’t have to stop there. Depending on the flavor profile you are going for, feel free to add chilies, ginger, scallions and even dried fruits.

• The Cheese. Grated Parmesan or Pecorino is the most common, but feel free to get creative. If you’re going for a dairy-free meatball you can substitute nutritional yeast for the cheese.

A few fun meatballs to try:

  • Lamb, cilantro, garlic, paprika, mint.
  • Turkey, maple, rosemary, mustard, thyme.
  • Pork, ginger, scallion, soy sauce.
  • Beef and pork, Calabrese chilies, garlic, honey, cayenne pepper.

Of course, there are a few things that can ruin a great meatball. I am not a fan of reheating day-old meatballs. Once they’ve been cooked and kept in a warmer all day, you don’t want to serve them the next day. At least not as a main, sandwich or side dish. To avoid waste, you can always slice them up and serve them as a pizza topping. Another thing to be conscious of is over cooking. No one wants a burned or dried out meatball. A big part of having a juicy meatball is adding fat. Just like when you make sausage, meatballs need a good amount of fat.

Now that you’ve gotten the flavor and texture that you are looking for in a killer meatball, how do you store and bake them? At my shop, we make a big batch every other day and use an ice cream scoop to portion them out. We put about 60 on a sheet tray with parchment and plastic wrap. This way it is ready to go for the opener to bake off in the morning. How you bake your meatballs really depends on the equipment you have in your shop. Ideally you could bake them off throughout the day to keep them fresh. However, this isn’t always practical. For example, we only have one pizza oven and after we open it is set to 625 F. In my opinion this is way too hot to bake off meatballs. They would come out burned on the outside and undercooked in the middle. Instead, we bake off what we think we need for the day at 400 F for 24 minutes. The meatballs then go into a warmer with marinara sauce. Your cooking time will also depend on the size of the meatballs. If they are super small you will obviously need less baking time and if they are on the larger side, I would recommend a lower temperature for longer so they cook all the way through while staying tender.

Whether you are looking for a standard recipe to serve in multiple ways or a specialty one for a burst of unexpected flavor, meatballs are a great way to add a big helping of comfort to your menu.

Turkey Rosemary Meatballs

Get the Turkey Rosemary Meatballs recipe.

 

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Extra Cheese , a Top Five Pizza Topping — What to Charge https://pizzatoday.com/topics/extra-cheese-a-top-five-pizza-topping-what-to-charge/ Sun, 01 Jan 2023 00:01:20 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=144687 Extra Cheese, how do you price it? It’s no secret that mozzarella cheese is the essence of a great pizza and the bane of all our existence because of the fluctuation in price and how easily that money can go sideways when wasted and not utilized properly. The Upsell Selling extra cheese effectively results in […]

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Extra Cheese, how do you price it?

It’s no secret that mozzarella cheese is the essence of a great pizza and the bane of all our existence because of the fluctuation in price and how easily that money can go sideways when wasted and not utilized properly.

The Upsell

Selling extra cheese effectively results in better food cost and a better dining experience. It’s an easy upsell when presented like an invitation to a party. The key is to sell it in a light and upbeat tone at the end of a sentence, “Extra cheese on that?” When a customer is already in the buying side of their brain, the euphoric side where they’re open to purchasing, whether on the phone or in person, it’s a simple way to enhance the pizza and get more revenue per transaction.

How Much is Extra Cheese?

There are many modes of thought in the industry when putting extra cheese on a pizza. The most common is half the amount of a standard pizza. If your pizza has eight ounces of cheese, extra cheese would be four ounces. From what I’ve seen, this is the industry norm, but it is not a mandate. Many people put another little bit on with a scoop of their hand. For some pizzerias, extra cheese is just two ounces more no matter the pizza, and for others, it’s a whole separate bag, with tiered pricing based upon each size of pizza measured to a finite degree.

Price Fluctuations

Executing how to monetize it seamlessly is more crucial than ever; with the commodities price of cheese at insane fluctuation, you must price it and portion it correctly. We’ve seen the Chicago Mercantile cheese block price fluctuate into the low $1.20 range, all the way to the $3 range. Your price might fluctuate with the market, or perhaps you have a locked-in rate; either way, your price has climbed significantly. Utilizing the lessons of a challenging economy for any economy creates long-lasting success. That means portion control, menu price awareness and vendor negotiations.

Aggressively attack your cheese price with your vendor from a partnership standpoint. Your vendor needs to know that if your cheese price is out of whack, you can’t operate successfully, and they’re putting your store’s health in jeopardy and that your financial health is tied to their health. Get a new vendor if your vendor does not see your relationship as a partnership. If they’re trying to get as much money out of you as fast as possible, get a new vendor. Bear in mind that if the price of cheese on the mercantile is $2.50, it’s irrational for you to ask for the same or less, no matter what it was last year. If you pay less than that, the vendor has to make it up somewhere, i.e., overcharging you for the rest of your products.

How to Charge for it:

Assume you have a $3 per pound mozzarella price. By that logic, if you are giving four ounces of extra cheese, then that’s .75 cents in raw food cost you’re giving out. If you’re also charging extra cheese at a $1.50, or even $2, that is a horrible food cost percentage. $2.25 charger at .75 cents your cost would be 33-percent food cost. Not that great. To hit 25 percent for four ounces of cheese, you would need to be at $3 as an extra cheese charge. If that sounds exorbitantly high, you could give less; for two ounces you could sell for $1.50 to $2, but you would not be giving as much extra cheese.

With that said, I will give a little inside baseball knowledge. In 18 years of giving different amounts of extra cheese, I have never heard someone who ordered extra cheese say that this was not enough. I just haven’t. I’ve had it for every other topping because it’s much more apparent. For example when a pizza is light on mushrooms.

If you want the customer to have an overload of cheese, that’s awesome by me, charge for it, or else you jeopardize your restaurant’s financial health.

Portion Control

If you use a handful method, that only works if you’ve been doing it for a very long time and you are financially liable to your restaurant. This assumes you know that weight, like the back or, in this case, the front of your hand. Anyone who’s not you, not living off the bottom line, going off the handful method is costing you. None of your staff are Indiana Jones, able to measure a bag of sand on instinct like in Raiders of the Lost Ark. Even he got it wrong, which initiated a boulder chase. Your boulder is food cost, and you’ll get crushed every time when left to chance.

You need a system. NOT JUST ANY SYSTEM, but a dependably great system. The most basic system is to fill up a bowl, measure it on a scale, and dump it on pizza. The problem with this system the cheese can often drop from the bowl on the trek to the pizza and land on the floor, but it is better than nothing. A flat gram scale instead of a tall analog scale will do better in this scenario. It’s more specific, which takes more time, which might lead to this back-of-house employee not doing it at all. A camera directly on the cheese station can help you review film and see who’s doing it and who’s not. That assumes you check your cameras, and that the cameras are functional.

If you buy pre-cut, be aware that certain diced cheeses come measured to a finite degree, and yes, you could use a cup measurement to portion if you buy this exact type of pre-cut mozzarella. This process will not work on pre-shred; it will not work on other styles of random-cut cheese. If you have all the cheese cut and want to ensure nothing goes wrong, weight and pre-bag your cheese. Bag it in a separate section of your restaurant so staff separates it out in their mind where cheese is measured and where cheese is used. Whether in a cup like the Big Dave Ostrander method or a loosely packed sandwich bag, pre-portioning this way ensures for the 1 cent in bag cost, you don’t lose 30 to 40 cents a pie in misplaced cheese.

Prepping your Cheese

If you don’t buy pre-dice or pre-shred, you’re cutting it yourself. The classic top loader method of pressing with all your weight down to get the shred is a little old-fashioned but works with no new equipment. New methods of shredding cut the mozzarella like a woodchipper taking out a redwood. This fast-cut method is much more advantageous for use inside a high-functioning restaurant because you don’t have much time to waste cutting cheese.

Our restaurant uses a vertical chopping mixer, like a giant blender. A VCM dices it up for a minute, and then we dump it into a big container. I find this is the most affordable and fastest method to getting a dice-cut of cheese which is easy to spread out, in my experience. If you’re buying pre-cut, you are already paying a significant amount more money and, theoretically, aside from a few companies, also paying for cellulose in your mozzarella. For any pizzeria that’s looking to cut costs, which should be all of us, I am a big proponent of cutting your own cheese. The cost is just too inescapably high right now to do otherwise unless you have absolutely no space to prep it and cut it yourself. If that’s your situation, price it accordingly for the excess cost you incur.

Cheese is a numbers game. If you’re unaware of the numbers, the numbers control you. Keep your cheese game tight, and your profit will reflect that.

Mike Bausch owns Andolini’s Pizzeria in Tulsa, Oklahoma. 

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Add Handcrafted Ravioli to Your Menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/add-handcrafted-ravioli-to-your-menu/ Sun, 01 Jan 2023 00:01:07 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=144686 Holy Ravioli! What is it about ravioli that has us so captivated? Is it the soft supple texture of the pasta or the multitude of ingredients that we can fill them with that makes these little dumplings so popular? One thing is for sure, there are a few things to consider when adding handcrafted ravioli […]

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Holy Ravioli!

What is it about ravioli that has us so captivated? Is it the soft supple texture of the pasta or the multitude of ingredients that we can fill them with that makes these little dumplings so popular? One thing is for sure, there are a few things to consider when adding handcrafted ravioli to your menu.

Are you going to make your own pasta dough, or will you use a pre-made pasta sheet?

If you want to make your own pasta dough, you’ll need to decide which type of flour to use.

We often associate Semolina flour with pasta making because it is a very course ground flour and it will produce a rough and dense pasta that will soak up your sauce better. But that texture and density will compete with your filling, which is really what you want to stand out.

Most all-purpose flour will do, but I prefer Doppio (double) Zero all-purpose flour. Its super fine texture yields a very light and delicate pasta perfect for showcasing your delicious filling.

Although you are not proofing the dough because there is no yeast in recipe, you still need to allow time for the gluten structure to develop which will allow you to stretch the dough without tearing it. This can take anywhere from 30 minutes up to a few hours.

If you choose to use pre-made pasta sheets, there are many brands and styles to choose from, thinner is better where ravioli is concerned. Pasta sheets definitely have some advantages. They are easy to use, store easily and can save labor hours. The flip side is that pasta sheets can be more expensive than purchasing the raw ingredients to make pasta dough in house. When deciding which route to take, weigh the added cost and convenience of the pre-made sheets against your labor cost and staffing availability. Perhaps the biggest advantage to using pasta sheets is that you can get right down to the business of making your filling.

Tools. There are many tools and techniques available to handcraft ravioli. You can use a pasta making attachment for your stand mixer that will sheet your pasta dough. Then fill and press the two halves together all in the same process. You might decide to use a countertop pasta sheeter and a ravioli mold to manually fill and shape your raviolis. Lastly, you can lay your sheeted pasta dough on the counter, dollop the filling on the dough and after pressing the two halves together, use a cutting wheel or ravioli stamp to shape and perforate the dumplings. In any case it is all the same process. Sheet, fill, press and cut.

Filling! Once you have decided on the particulars of flour, shape, size and tools, all that’s left is the filling. You don’t have a lot of real estate to work with, so simple is better.

If you have too many ingredients, your flavors could get lost and overwhelm the palate.

Ensure that all ingredients are fully incorporated and avoid big chunks of meat or vegetables.

If your filling contains raw meat, consider lightly sautéing it beforehand. This brings the flavors together and since fresh pasta cooks so quickly, it may be over done before your filling is at a safe serving temperature. If you are using a cutting wheel or ravioli stamp, ensure that you are not overfilling your ravioli or they will burst during the cooking process. I like to use a .5-ounce disher, to ensure consistency.

If you are using a mold, you’ll be able to see the indentions where you will place your filling. This will help you to know how much filling to use. The ravioli making attachment will automatically fill the ravioli for you, eliminating the guess work.

Whether you are using pasta maker/sheeter or a rolling pin, the desired thickness is generally 1/16-inch, but follow the manufacturers guidelines for your pasta sheeter/maker.

Once you have made your ravioli, allow them to rest on your work surface for about 15 minutes before handling them. This will allow them to form a good seal and dry slightly so that they will not stick to each other.

If you are going to cook the ravioli immediately, there is nothing left to do but boil your water and start cooking. If you will be preparing your ravioli to order it is best practice to pre portion them before storing them. This will save prep time on the line and is a great portion controlling measure. In my experience, an 8-ounce portion of ravioli is about right for most guests. I base this portion on a 1.5-inch square ravioli (about 17 in a serving)

To store fresh ravioli, place them on a sheet pan lined with waxed paper or a silicone mat and place in freezer until they are frozen on the outside. I like to use sandwich bags to portion the ravioli into single servings because they are inexpensive and easy to store in a container in the freezer.

Consider creating a seasonal special with your hand-crafted ravioli and bring in flavors that feature the best that the season has to offer. One of my favorites is a filling made with house-made bulk sausage with hints of sage and clove, dolce ricotta and smoked mozzarella, drizzled with a butternut squash reduction and candied walnuts. Paired with a nice pour of your favorite Bourbon, a warm sweater and you are set for a great fall or winter meal!

Each of these methods has their advantages and draw backs. Consider your restaurant’s volume, your staffing levels, the amount of storage available for the raw ingredients and how often you plan to feature hand-crafted ravioli. If ravioli will be a staple menu item, then speed is more of a consideration than wasted dough. If ravioli is a seasonal or weekly special, you may decide that the hand-crafted artisan look is worth the time and labor. In any case the love and energy you put into your ravioli will show in the end product.

MELISSA RICKMAN   is co-founder of Wholly Stromboli in Fort Lupton, Colorado, and member of the World Pizza Champions.

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Bacon on Pizza: Crispy Business https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/bacon-on-pizza-crispy-business/ Thu, 01 Dec 2022 00:01:23 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=144458 “Life is too short not to order the bacon dessert.” – George Takei As I visit my farmer friends for vegetables to make artisan pizzas throughout the week, I always keep an eye out for the best-selling items like asparagus, strawberry, tomatoes and pears. The farmers are very accommodating but as I wait for the […]

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“Life is too short not to order the bacon dessert.” – George Takei

As I visit my farmer friends for vegetables to make artisan pizzas throughout the week, I always keep an eye out for the best-selling items like asparagus, strawberry, tomatoes and pears. The farmers are very accommodating but as I wait for the inevitable question about buying the hard-to-sell items like turnip, parsnip, rutabaga, daikon and kohlrabi, I cringe inside. Unlike Europeans, we here in the U.S. have a twisted relationship with traditional root vegetables that are popular over there. The thought of trying to manipulate these downtrodden vegetables into a good selling pizza weighs heavy on me. But because these farmers are my friends, I usually cave into their lame sales pitch because I know the secret weapon lies not in the roasting, curing, pureeing or slicing of the poor selling veggies. It lies in the age-old pairing of what sometimes seems to be my best friend. Bacon! Turning Clark Kent into Superman doesn’t require a phone booth. Not when you have bacon.

Porking Brake

baconBacon, as it is named now, has a long history. The pig was first domesticated from wild boar in the Tigris bason in eastern Turkey as long ago as 13,000 BC. Greek historian Herodotus said that any Egyptian who brushed against a pig immediately jumped in the Nile to purify themselves. But it was found that Pharaohs offered them at temples and feasts. Egyptians all imbibed in pork in predynastic times and usually ate it simply with oil and scallions, but it fell out of favor with the ruling class during the old kingdom. The Romans loved pork bellies braised in garum, (fish sauce) and especially loved the young pigs rescued from the jaws of a ravenous wolf because they though it made the meat more tender. As the wagon trains made their way across this country in the old west, a campfire favorite of fried, creamed salt pork was popular on the trail.

Today, bacon is still very popular and with our industrial food system, some pork belly is processed using pigs that are caged for life, seasoned with nitrates, pinned with liquid smoke, and treated as a commodity, not as a food. More and more companies are now making uncured bacon that is humanely raised and smoked naturally because… it tastes better.

In many a pizzeria, bacon is used in shaved frozen form, which makes it extremely easy for topping pizzas. Some of this bacon turns darker and turns the top of a pizza a dull brown that is not pleasing to the eye. Other choices for pizzeria owners are the strips, or as the English call “Rashers,” either thick or thin. This bacon, in raw form, needs to be par cooked before putting it on a pizza to ensure a fully cooked product on the pie. Other bacon choices are as follows.

Belly Up

Whole pork belly: This is probably the most delicious way to present on a pizza either sliced thin or, as the French call, “lardons.” Bellies taste best seasoned with salt, pepper and sugar and held overnight with or without nitrates. (Nitrates will ensure that no botulism will occur and turn the bacon flesh into a pleasant pink hue- but there are serious health concerns with using nitrates. Please research before you use them.) The belly then can be cut and smoked, (This will turn it technically from pork belly to “bacon.”) although there should be a catch basin in your smoker to catch the copious amount of fat that will render down. I like to cook my belly at 290 F in my bread oven until it reaches an internal temperature of 190 F. This usually takes two to 2.5 hours depending on the thickness of the belly.

Pancetta: There are two types of this Italian salt-cured pork belly. The stesa (flat), which is cubed or cut and added into soups, sauces and sautés; and the arrotolata, which is rolled and used for thin slicing for use in antipasto, sandwiches or with breakfast breads.

Fresh Side: This you can find at local farmers markets and is a raw pork belly usually sliced by the butcher for sale by the rancher. This is wonderful to par bake with soy sauce or spiced with Berbere seasoning, cumin, Aleppo peppers, marinated in adobo or just par baked with garlic powder, salt and pepper before placing on a pizza.

Back Bacon: This is from the loin and the leanest cut of bacon. It is often fried for use with breakfast or for sandwiches. The middle bacon from the side of the pig is also lean with an eye of lean meat surrounded by fat.

Lardo: This is not from the side but is brine-cured pork back fat with herbs and garlic. It has a silky-smooth texture and a deep, wonderful flavor. This is fantastic when thinly cut and placed on a hot cornicione, or pizza crust, right out of the oven to melt into a beautiful crunchy flavor bomb.

Beef Bacon: This is from the “Plate Cut” near where pastrami is from and mimics the fat to meat ratio of a pork belly. Beef Bacon is salt cured and smoked and is very strong in its beefy taste and it crisps up nicely on a pizza.

Lap Yuk: Meaning “wax meat” in Chinese, this strongly flavored pork belly bacon is marinated in Chinese spices and slowly dried. It is usually chopped into other dishes for a blast of flavor.

Ayrshire Cure Bacon: This Scottish rolled bacon is skinned and dry cured without the rind, which produces a strongly flavored bacon.

Bacon a great sizzle for shizzle

Bacon can introduce smoke, salt and fat to any pizza depending on which type of bacon you use. Bacon lends another layer of flavor to vegetables and is a perfect start with many sauces. It also combines with greens, fruit and acid very well. Here are some items that work well with bacon on a pizza: Chanterelle mushrooms, chicken, eggs, lettuce, shallots, arugula, winter squash, lentils, onions, parsnips, peas, spinach, tomatoes, avocados, olive oil, maple syrup, nuts, scallops, salmon, risotto, Fontina, Manchego, Gorgonzola, Feta, Cheddar, Gouda and Rutabagas.

 

chicken cordon bleu, bacon pizza, pizza recipeChicken “Cordon Blacon”

This pizza is a knockout blast of all the lusciousness in a traditional Cordon Bleu dish. The difference is that bacon is used instead of ham, and they all bake on a pizza. If you use non-crunchy chicken, you can always toss the panko breadcrumbs on the pie after the oven bake.

Get the Chicken “Cordon Blacon” recipe. 

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

 

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What’s in Plant-Based Pepperoni and Mozzarella? https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/whats-in-plant-based-pepperoni-and-mozzarella/ Thu, 01 Dec 2022 00:01:04 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=144457 Pizzeria operators can incorporate these innovative ingredients to answer consumer demand Plant-based ingredients are gaining popularity, including on pizza. According to Datassential, plant-based items have been rapidly growing in menu prevalence, and are expected to be on 40 percent of menus by 2025. These menu items include not just veggie burgers and tofu scramble, but […]

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Pizzeria operators can incorporate these innovative ingredients to answer consumer demand

Plant-based ingredients are gaining popularity, including on pizza. According to Datassential, plant-based items have been rapidly growing in menu prevalence, and are expected to be on 40 percent of menus by 2025. These menu items include not just veggie burgers and tofu scramble, but pizza toppings such as non-dairy cheeses and meatless proteins.

Pizzeria owners looking to add plant-based mozzarella and pepperoni to their menus want to know what is in these ingredients, and how to prep the items so that the finished product satisfies customers. Manufacturers say the items are comparable to the milk and meat versions, and generally should be handled the same way.

Plant-based mozzarella

Plant-based cheese can be made from various ingredients, but one thing it does not contain is casein, a protein in dairy milk that gives it structure and meltability. The challenge for plant-based cheese manufacturers is to make the cheese with the stretch and creaminess that people enjoy in mozzarella. Manufacturers say they have found ingredient combinations that work.

Saputo Dairy USA’s Vitalite brand of vegan-certified, dairy-free plant-based mozzarella has as its main ingredients potato and corn starch, coconut oil and water. “It’s the combination of ingredients that creates the right balance to deliver on the attributes consumers are looking for in a plant-based cheese – delicious taste, creamy texture and optimal melting performance,” says David Cherrie, vice president of marketing and innovation for Saputo Dairy USA. The cheese has a neutral flavor so that it can be added to any dishes that typically use cheese, including pizza.

Other manufacturers use similar components. At Daiya Foods, the main ingredients include tapioca flour, coconut oil, chickpea protein, yeast extract and fruit or vegetable juice for color. “Dairy parity is the goal that all plant-based cheeses are working and innovating towards, Daiya included,” says Greg Acken, director of foodservice for North America. “To best achieve this, there are a few key steps pizzeria owners should be aware of.”

The amount of cheese one uses is important for achieving the right melt factor with plant-based cheese. The brand recommends using from one and a quarter cup to two cups Daiya Cheeze Shreds, based on the size of pizza. “It is also important to check with your food manufacturer if the product has a recommended cooking condition and time that differs from its dairy counterparts, which can sometimes be the case,” Acken says. That time can range from eight to sixteen minutes based on the type of oven.

Also, plant-based cheese interacts with toppings in much the same way as dairy mozzarella does.  “We have found that the more toppings, the better the melt,” Acken says. “Consider pairing your plant-based pizza with lots of veggies.”

Customers might ask about allergens, particularly if they are seeking a lactose-free meal. Operators should train staff on how to answer these questions, and also prep the food in an area separate from where the dairy cheese version is prepped, to avoid cross-contamination.

There are also nut allergies to consider. Miyoko’s Creamery makes Liquid Vegan Pizza Mozzarella that is nut free and allergen friendly. The pourable cheese is an alternative to a block of cheese that needs to be shredded, which the brand says can hinder meltability. “Miyoko’s stripped it down to the very minimum, creating a liquid with cultured plant milk as the hero, and using the heat of the oven to activate the starches and proteins,” says Jason Hull, brand manager. The cheese is delivered frozen, and the brand recommends slack (thaw in the refrigerator) for 48 hours, then apply a thin layer on top of the sauce using a ladle or precision squeeze bottle. The recommended amount is one-quarter cup per 10-inch pizza, and bake at 500+ degrees.

Pepperoni

Plant-based pepperoni is also gaining popularity. In 2021 Pizza Hut and Beyond Meat announced they were partnering to debut Beyond Pepperoni, a plant-based version of Pizza Hut’s top-selling pizza topping. The Beyond Pepperoni Pizza was available as a test in approximately 70 Pizza Hut locations across five U.S. markets for a limited time.

Other manufacturers are also entering the plant-based pepperoni category. At Happy Little Plants, a brand from Hormel Foods, the pepperoni-style topping contains water, soybean oil, soy protein concentrate, paprika, and other ingredients. It should be cooked from a refrigerated prep table, and used the same way as meat pepperoni. “Our team worked closely with pizzerias, chefs, foodservice operators and pizza experts to develop a plant-based pepperoni that cooks and tastes like traditional pepperoni and have put that same attention to all our plant-based pizza topping items,” said Colby Strilaeff, brand manager, Hormel Foodservice. “We wanted to offer a plant-based pepperoni that we felt confident in adding to our pizza topping portfolio of products to our customers.”

According to the brand’s website, Happy Little Plants Pepperoni-style topping is fully cooked and can be eaten out of the package, but the flavor and texture are best enjoyed warmed. It works in all style of pizza ovens, and all temperatures.

For plant-based versions of meat proteins, consumers sometimes want to know if the item has soy, as they might be allergic. A spokesperson for Greenleaf Foods, parent company of brands such as Field Roast and Lightlife, says Field Roast Plant-Based Pepperoni is made with whole pieces of fennel, cracked black pepper, anise, garlic and paprika, and uses pea protein rather than soy. The plant-based pepperoni also has less sodium than beef and pork pepperoni. The Field Roast products can be prepped the same way as the animal protein pepperoni on pizzas, calzones, salads, and other items.

There will likely be more demand for plant-based toppings such as pepperoni and mozzarella, and manufacturers say operators should be ready. “The pandemic changed consumers’ expectations for dining out and how they think about their health,” says the Greenleaf Foods spokesperson.  “It’s critical that operators diversify their protein options beyond traditional meat to include things like plant-based pepperoni, plant-based chicken, etc.”

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Ground Beef Can be a Star in Your Pizzeria https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/ground-beef-can-be-a-star-in-your-pizzeria/ Tue, 01 Nov 2022 12:41:59 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=144313 Rumble in the Crumble The question blew my mind 22 years ago as my designated food salesperson showed me his two ground beef pizza toppings; The bag of individually quick-frozen beef crumbles looked like cemetery soil ready to be thrown on a pizza like dirt on a coffin. The crumbled topping seemed so distant from […]

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Rumble in the Crumble

The question blew my mind 22 years ago as my designated food salesperson showed me his two ground beef pizza toppings; The bag of individually quick-frozen beef crumbles looked like cemetery soil ready to be thrown on a pizza like dirt on a coffin. The crumbled topping seemed so distant from beef because it contained soy, garlic powder, granulated onion and caramel color. The salesman’s marketing pitch was that it had “no shrinkage” and “No annoying beef oils” and guaranteed to reduce labor costs and be perfect for K-12 education lunches. The other option were larger frozen round pellets containing the same ingredients, (Hence the industry moniker, Rabbit turds.) “Pretty nice huh?” he said with glee. I was shocked.

These days, I use only local beef on my pizzas figuring that if you’re going to put a topping on a pizza, it better be good. This plain and simple rule brings customers back time and time again. Ground beef can either be a glorious king on a pizza or a stupid jester as a secondary flavor. Ground beef can be a wonderful deep flavor, and the ability to manipulate it into numerous variations for pizza brings the wonderful oils and juices to lollygag around with the melting cheese and crisp wheat. This is my idea of paradise.

 

Beevus Maximus

Grinding beef goes way back into history. The Roman cook Apicius has numerous ground beef recipes dating to the 5th century AD. Pisa siva faba, or Meatballs with Fava beans, marries ground beef with garum (fish sauce), red wine, cumin, celery seeds, honey, and olive oil. The Roman Esticia omentata were a big hit as stuffed meat patties with breadcrumbs, myrtle, garum, pine nuts and bound with caul fat, (fatty intestine used for binding meat.) 

Today’s use of ground beef is spectacular in so many ways. Here are a few ground beef recipes from around the world.

  • Moroccan grilled beef with ground beef, onion, parsley, pepper, dry-cured olives, tomato, cumin and salt served with onion relish and pita.
  • Gato di Patate Rustico blends Sicilian and Neapolitan flavors in a mashed potato pie with ground beef, breadcrumbs, egg, Prosciutto di Parma, mozzarella di buffala, Scamorza, pecorino Romano, pine nuts, currants.
  • Bosnian Pljeskavica with ground beef and veal, onion, garlic, hot peppers, parsley, pepper and served with tomato and lemon.
  • Mexican Picadillo Tacos is ground beef flavored with onions, almonds, cloves, allspice, cumin, oregano, garlic, onion, jalapeño, tomato, green olives, capers, and raisons. Served with arbol chili salsa and a squeeze of lime.
  • Turkish yufka is a non-yeasted dough with milk, egg and wine vinegar topped with a mix of ground beef, yogurt, lemon juice, pistachio, parsley and pepper. The dough is then rolled like a long snake and then rolled up and baked in an oven and eaten hot with a pistachio yogurt.
  • Greek Gozleme is cooked ground beef mix with allspice, hot pepper flakes, oregano, cumin, paprika, sugar, orange zest, parsley, feta cheese, butter and olives. These are blended and mixed inside a pita and grilled until crisp.

 

Leave it to Beefer

To deepen your menu options, ground beef offers a wide range of opportunities. Some chefs are going back to the classics like Steak Tartar using chopped tenderloin of beef and even meatloaf. Every way you use ground beef, there are several techniques you may want to know.

  • Ratio of beef to fat. The industry standard for a lot of restaurant ground beef is 80/20. This is a good start because of cooking. The juices of the beef seem to escape onto other ingredients unless you use other partners in the mix. If you have a leaner mix, the beef may shrivel up and crack.
  • Binders. In my 20 years of making meatballs, I’ve had some massive fails because of hydration or wet meat. After all, you can’t roll a meatball if it is mush. I love pre-prepared Panko, (Japanese style breadcrumbs) but I’ve had to use a quickly cooked pizza crust chopped into submission as an alternative. I like to add egg and breadcrumbs together because the egg penetrates the crumbs and sets up under heat creating a great meatball mouthfeel and taste combined with herbs and cheese.
  • Cheeses. The other binders that add structure and flavor to ground beef are grated cheeses. My favorite grated binders with beef are Manchego, Asiago, Pecorino Romano, Parmigiano Reggiano, Kashkaval, Provola di Buffala Affumicate, and aged Gouda. 
  • Pizza Cheeses with Ground Beef. Because beef has such a pronounced bold taste, I’ve found that pairing it with a multitude of cheeses brings different results. My greatest hits are Gorgonzola, Feta, Chevre, Provolone, Parmigiano, Labneh, Genovese Prescinsua, Cheddar, Brie, Pepper Jack, Stilton, Emmental, and even American cheese.

 

Spicy Beef and Bacon Meatball Pizza

This is a fan favorite in my pizzeria because of the meaty, fatty lushness of the meat-bacon mix combined with the spice from Calabrian chilies and the herbal follow through of the basil and parsley. All these flavors play well with the cream sauce, Asiago and the spinach.

Get the Spicy Beef and Bacon Meatball Pizza recipe.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Sustainably Sourcing Ingredients https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/sustainably-sourcing-ingredients/ Tue, 01 Nov 2022 00:01:34 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=144309 Operators say buying flour, tomatoes and cheese from environmentally friendly providers can be time consuming but rewarding When it comes to sourcing ingredients, the term “sustainable” refers to whether the food was grown or produced in a way that does not deplete natural resources. Pizzeria operators that want to sustainably source ingredients look for certain […]

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Operators say buying flour, tomatoes and cheese from environmentally friendly providers can be time consuming but rewarding

When it comes to sourcing ingredients, the term “sustainable” refers to whether the food was grown or produced in a way that does not deplete natural resources. Pizzeria operators that want to sustainably source ingredients look for certain attributes or labels. For example, they might buy produce that is certified organic, which means the farmer did not use pesticides and followed guidelines related to soil management. Others buy from farmers that use regenerative agriculture, which focuses on the health of the ecosystem. 

Then there is the movement to buy local, which the Green Restaurant Association defines as food that is transported 100 miles or less from a farm or orchard, or regional, transported 300 miles or less. Humane Farm Animal Care offers a certification and labeling program for Humanely Raised and Handled for meat, eggs, dairy and poultry. Monterey Bay Aquarium has its Sustainable Seafood list. 

Sourcing sustainable ingredients takes research. Take pepperoni for example. “There is more to it than beef and pork and spices,” says Brad Kent, founder and head chef of Blaze Pizza. “How is the factory run? Are they exercising water conservation? Are they using the right packaging?” 

Also, the manufacturer should be limiting food waste, but not by extending the shelf life of the food by adding artificial ingredients. “It’s a delicate balancing act,” Kent says. “It requires deep knowledge of your partners.” 

While visiting manufacturing plants might be difficult for most restaurant operators, an easier tactic is to source from a local company. When the Pasadena, California-based Blaze Pizza opened its first location in California, the restaurant began buying flour from a company that sourced the wheat in Washington and milled it in Los Angeles. As Blaze Pizza opened more locations throughout the U.S., the flour partner was able to continue to supply the proprietary flour blend, sourcing the wheat from regions close to the other restaurant locations. 

“We are reducing our carbon impact by reducing the supply chain distance,” Kent says. That’s true for dairy too, as most of the cheese Blaze Pizza uses comes from two plants that are within 300 miles of the dairy farms. The restaurants also buy pre-cut produce, which saves labor and reduces food waste, as the cores and other trims are used for animal feed instead of going into a landfill. 

Another way to source locally is to skip the large distributor and instead shop at farmer’s markets. “These products are either delivered on an 18-wheeler from a broadline distributor or maybe from Mexico or Chile,” says Matthew Lyons, owner of Tribute Pizza in San Diego. “Or maybe they come from a guy who just that morning was loading a van and driving 20 miles to your neighborhood.” 

Lyons buys produce from two nearby farmers markets where consumers also shop. The difference is he brings a dolly and buys 100 pounds of tomatoes at a time. Some farmers let him pre-order. “They text us and ask, ‘What do you want tomorrow?’” he says. “They will make sure they are bringing it in and putting it aside for us.” For a fee, some farmers set aside an amount of acreage of, for example, kale or peppers, and Tribute Pizza buys the entire crop. 

One drawback to this method of sustainable sourcing is that it’s time consuming to go to a farmer’s market once or twice a week. Also, while some of the farmers have card readers at their booths, others require cash payments. “It’s a different kind of accounting,” Lyons says. “They are not doing invoices.” 

Still, he is building relationships with the farmers, which has its advantages. Some farmers offer Lyons a bulk discount. “It’s more cost effective,” he says. “We are cutting out the middleman.” He gets alerts about the week’s crop and makes changes to the menu, such as adding prosciutto and melon when melons come in. There is also a rotating Farmer’s Market Pizza on the menu.  

For some, buying from farmers is less convenient but still worthwhile. When Talula’s Pizza opened in Asbury Park, N.J. eight years ago, husband and wife owners Steve and Shanti Mignogna cold-called local farmers and asked if they would deliver. “We did a lot of research,” Shanti Mignogna says. “We were starting from scratch.” 

For a few years they sourced ingredients from several farms. Eventually they began working with Harvest Drop, which delivers food from local farms. “That allows us to have access to so many more small family farms that don’t sell direct, and don’t have transportation,” Mignogna says. 

Another way to source sustainable ingredients is to prepare items onsite. Instead of buying packages of mozzarella, Talula’s Pizza buys large bricks of curd and makes the cheese in-house. The restaurant also buys large packs of meat and slices it in-house instead of buying packaged sliced meat. While that takes more labor, the quality and flavor are better,
Mignogna says, and it cuts down on packaging. Also there are savings on food costs. “I prefer to put our money in people than buying things pre-made,” she says. 

Some operators buy products from long distances but say the sourcing is sustainable because the ingredient is organic. Ambrogio15, part of Milano Five Group, with locations in California and Scottsdale, Arizona, uses Petra Flour from the Molino Quaglia grain mill in Verona, Italy. Fabio Rauscher Bascon, chief marketing officer at Milano Five Group, explains that Molino Quaglia is an agronomic system that limits its environmental impact. The Italian wheat is grown with the minimum usage of fertilizers, pesticides and synthetic substances, and the stone milling technique crushes the grain of wheat while conserving its natural qualities.

“Using stone ground flours made in a sustainable way is critical to our mission and product,” Rauscher Bascon says. “There is a special process to it, but it gives it a better taste, gives it more nutrition, and a nice aroma.” 

Nora Caley   is a freelance writer who covers small business, finance and lifestyle topics.

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The Great Grinder https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/the-great-grinder/ Tue, 01 Nov 2022 00:01:04 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=144311 A guide to making the classic sandwich Grinder, hoagie, Italian sandwich, hero, sub, wedge, zep, bomber, torpedo. Depending where you are from, this iconic sandwich has a different name and connotation. For most, it is as nostalgic as a classic cheese slice from your childhood pizzeria. By definition a grinder is: a large sandwich on […]

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A guide to making the classic sandwich

Grinder, hoagie, Italian sandwich, hero, sub, wedge, zep, bomber, torpedo. Depending where you are from, this iconic sandwich has a different name and connotation. For most, it is as nostalgic as a classic cheese slice from your childhood pizzeria. By definition a grinder is: a large sandwich on a long, split roll filled with layers of ingredients. That’s a pretty broad description and everyone has their own interpretation of what it should look and taste like. 

To really understand how to make a great grinder, you have to know the different elements and composition of one. The physical sandwich can be broken down into: the roll, the filling and the toppings. Just like when I am creating a pizza, I try to make the flavor profile as cohesive as possible. 

For me, the roll is just as important as the filling. The worst thing is to get a grinder that has an incredible filling only to realize that roll doesn’t hold up or is super dry. A few characteristics of a great roll:

  • Structurally sound. Your roll should hold up to the ingredients it is supporting. In my mind, a grinder is full of saucy, messy, saliva-inducing ingredients but that doesn’t mean that it should fall apart when you eat it.  
  • Texture. You don’t want a roll that’s too hard to bite into or so soft it turns to mush. The perfect balance is a roll that is stiff or crunchy on the outside with a chewy, developed interior.
  • Flavorful. Don’t count out the roll for adding flavor to the overall sandwich. The bread itself should be able to stand up on its own. You can always add sesame or poppy seeds, dried onions or Italian mix or even brush the top with garlic oil for a little extra up level. 
  • Size. I think that the roll and the filling proportions should be close to equal. You don’t want so much bread that it overtakes the filling, but enough that it stands up to it. 

I’m a huge fan of making everything in-house. This means all the components on our Meatball Grinder — from the meatballs to the sauce to the roll—are prepped and cooked in our slice house. You don’t need to over complicate things. You can make your rolls using the same flour, or even dough, as you do your pizza. If you don’t feel up to making your own, or simply don’t have the time and labor force to do so, try to seek out a bakery close to your shop. Not only is it going to be superior quality to a mass-produced roll, but it is also great cross promotion to work with and support another local business. 

Obviously, the filling is just as important as the roll. I like my fillings saucy, full of flavor, with a good helping of cheese and a little on the messy side. I know a lot of people might disagree with the latter option. My husband, specifically, hates a messy sandwich. He likes everything contained and proportional. Whereas I say messier is usually more flavorful. Neatness aside, there are a few elements that create a good grinder filling. 

• Cheese. Unless you are trying to make it vegan or dairy free, I would argue that cheese is an essential component of a grinder. Not only does it add a creamy, salty, cohesive flavor and texture to the overall sandwich, it is also a big component of making it structurally sound. If you’re making a grinder that is especially saucy or has ingredients that are on the wetter side (such as veggies liked cooked spinach, roasted eggplant or anything pickled), it can act as an in-between layer to protect the bread from getting overly soggy. By melting the cheese on top of the filling in the oven, it is great for sealing everything together. 

• Sauce. Whether you are making a hot meatball grinder or a cold Italian one, the sauce you use is vital to the flavor profile. I like my tomato sauce for hot sandwiches slightly thicker than I use on my pizzas, with a sweeter edge to it. For cold sandwiches, I’m a huge fan of a good extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar or a homemade Italian dressing. If you’re looking to change up the sauce on a hot grinder, try pesto. We do a great hot veggie with pesto, veggies, melted mozzarella, and topped with arugula and sweetie drops after it comes out of the oven. A few other great cold sandwich sauces include: flavored mayonnaise (such as garlic, roasted red pepper, jalapeño), any and all salad dressings, compound butters, infused oils and pestos. 

• Pickled Veggies and Greens. These are great for contrasting flavors and textures. You can cut through heavier meats and sauces with the addition of a few pickled jalapeños or a handful of arugula. 

• Main meat or vegetable. Since this is the star of the show, make sure it’s delicious. To me, a great meatball grinder is simple: meatballs, sauce, cheese and the roll. That being said, you need every element to be well executed. Don’t forget the eggplant grinder for an equally delicious veggie option. 

As you can see, there are so many ways to make the perfect hot and saucy sub. Just make sure you put thought into each element, try to keep it simple and make it structurally sound. 

Eggplant Parm is a classic for any pizzeria but if your shop is small and limited to just your pizza oven, frying eggplant (or anything for that matter) isn’t always an option. In this recipe I use roasted eggplant, layered with sauce, ricotta and mozzarella and I think it is every bit as comforting and delicious as its fried sister. 

Roasted Eggplant Parmesan Grinder

Get the Roasted Eggplant Parmesan Grinder recipe.

Audrey Kelly  owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado. 

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Add Party Packages and Family Style Menu Options During the Holidays https://pizzatoday.com/topics/add-party-packages-and-family-style-menu-options-during-the-holidays/ Sat, 01 Oct 2022 00:01:57 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=144202 Bundle Up This Holiday Season with Party Packages Let’s face it, the holiday season is busy. With all the things that we have on our to-do lists, sometimes it’s all too easy to lose sight of what’s most important about the holidays: our friends and family.  Packages and family-style options can be a great way […]

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Bundle Up This Holiday Season with Party Packages

Let’s face it, the holiday season is busy. With all the things that we have on our to-do lists, sometimes it’s all too easy to lose sight of what’s most important about the holidays: our friends and family. 

Packages and family-style options can be a great way to help your customers spend more time enjoying their friends and family and less time in the kitchen. 

The key to a putting together a successful holiday package is to remember that your customers want to create a memorable experience for their guests, and that is where you come in. Food is often the focus of family gatherings, so this is a great opportunity for your restaurant to make a great impression and potentially gain new, loyal customers. 

Think of your holiday packages as a marketing opportunity. It is vital to ensure that the food leaving your restaurant is hot, fresh and travels well. Consider options that can be reheated on site as well as items that are ready to serve. Ask yourself what will present best at an offsite event? You may even consider modifying some dishes so that sauces or garnishes can be added at the time the dish is ready to be served for maximum freshness. Branded bags, boxes, foil pan lids, serving utensils and chafer heating instructions are a great marketing opportunity as well as give a polished, professional look to your restaurant.

Your customers may need to pick up their food the day before their event. Ensuring that you provide reheating instructions for each menu items is not only helpful, but that attention to detail shows that you care about their experience with your restaurant even when it is outside of your four walls. 

Holiday hours can be tricky, especially if you are going to be closed the day before the actual holiday. Using Christmas as an example, you can prepare your holiday pre-orders in advance and schedule a window of time on Christmas Eve for pick-ups. This is a way to fill your orders on the day closest to the event with minimal staffing. 

Pastas, salads and desserts are easy to serve in bulk. Pastas reheat easily and are a great option for family-style meals. However, this is a pizza magazine, so let’s talk take and bake! There are many different types of take and bake trays, pans and options for baking the perfect pie in a residential oven. Pizzas and Strombolis are equally as easy to par-bake and finish off in a 550 F oven on a baking sheet. 

Here are some rules of thumb that I use when putting together packages. I like party packages that serve 12, (anything less than that can easily be accommodated with a large take-out order). In my experience, 12 is the sweet spot. I can provide more value, better options and variety for a party of 12. On average, each adult in the group will eat 4 ounces of cooked pasta (2 ounces uncooked), three 1-ounce meatballs, or 2.5 ounces of grilled chicken breast, 4 ounces of lettuce (plus salad toppings), 1 piece of garlic bread or 1.5 garlic knots. 

For dough products, you can usually plan, on average, that each guest will eat 2 slices of pizza, or two 2-inch slices of a “family-sized” stromboli.  

With these tips in mind, I would put together some packages that would include the following:

Option 1

  • House salad (48 ounces of lettuce, 16 ounces of salad dressing)
  • 1 half pan of baked ziti marinara with broiled mozzarella on the top (48 ounces of pasta, 24 ounces of sauce, 14 ounces of cheese)
  • Add protein — 36 one-ounce meatballs (assume 3 per person)
  • One family-sized stromboli cut into 12 equal slices. 
  • 18 garlic knots

Option 2

  • Antipasto salad (48 ounces of lettuce, 16 ounces of salad dressing)
  • 1 half pan of Fettuccine Alfredo (48 ounces of pasta, 24 ounces sauce)
  • Add sliced grilled chicken (30 ounces)
  • 18 garlic knots or 12 slices of garlic bread 

Option 3

  • House or antipasto salad (48 ounces of lettuce,16 ounces of salad dressing)
  • 2 family-sized stromboli, cut into 12 equal slices or two pizzas
  • Meatballs or sausage with marinara (36 meatballs or 1.5-inch sausage links) 
  • 18 garlic knots  

Dessert Options

The holidays are a great time to have fun with your menu and be creative. But don’t stray so far from your niche or specialty, otherwise party guests will be confused about what your restaurant is all about. For example, Wholly Stromboli features a Rueben ‘boli on St. Patrick’s Day. It’s still a stromboli, but it’s a special occasion offering and still on-brand.

Also, the logistics of executing holiday packages can be tricky when you have a small kitchen. For that reason, I try not to stray too far from the menu items that I feature in my restaurant. I don’t need to special order ingredients that I don’t already have in stock, thus minimizing the space and special preparation required for these special items. 

In terms of pricing, I like to keep my cost of goods at 18 percent or less. While that may not always be possible with holiday packages, you can make up for a slightly lower margin with dollars to the bank. Consider that your paper goods, labor and overhead is less than if your team were to prepare 12 separate take-out orders or serve those guests in house. Additionally, one foil pan with a lid is more economical than 12 individual containers. We should always strive to provide value to our guests without devaluing our product. The sweet spot is where convenience and value intersect. Make the emphasis on providing those two things and you won’t have to give away the farm to build a strong holiday business. 

MELISSA RICKMAN  is co-founder of Wholly Stromboli in Fort Lupton, Colorado, and member of the World Pizza Champions.

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A Guide to Making Sausage in House and Pizza Topping Combos https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/a-guide-to-making-sausage-in-house-and-pizza-topping-combos/ Sat, 01 Oct 2022 00:01:32 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=144032 Sausage Sizzles As far as meat toppings go, I used to be firmly in the pepperoni camp. Lately though, I’ve realized the beauty in a simple sausage slice. With the right sausage, it has all the elements of an unadorned cheese slice with bursts of extra flavor. While the vast majority of pizzeria operators buy […]

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Sausage Sizzles

As far as meat toppings go, I used to be firmly in the pepperoni camp. Lately though, I’ve realized the beauty in a simple sausage slice. With the right sausage, it has all the elements of an unadorned cheese slice with bursts of extra flavor. While the vast majority of pizzeria operators buy their pepperoni, sausage is a topping that can really be a signature item. It is fairly simple to make, whether you want an extremely versatile sausage or one with a unique flavor for a specific pie. If you don’t want to make it in house, there are plenty of companies out there willing to do the work for you. 

As I was creating my menu before my pizzeria opened, I knew that sausage was something I wanted to make myself. It sounds more daunting than it actually is. And once you get your recipe down, it takes very little time to make. The first thing you must decide is if you want to grind your own meat or buy it already ground. We’ve done both and I can honestly say that as long as you have good quality meat, in our case pork, both taste fantastic. If you are going to grind your own meat, there are a few things to keep in mind: 

  • Know your cuts of meat. Shoulder cuts, also known as the butt, is ideal if you’re using pork, beef or lamb (it has a good blend of muscle and fat that is great for grinding). 
  • Cube up your meat and then keep it cold. Don’t let it sit out or it will be harder to grind. 
  • Decide which grinder plate you want to use, coarse or fine. You can also use a combination of the two. 
  • Don’t throw out all of the fat when cutting and trimming your pork butt. As you know, fat is flavor and is especially important in something like sausage. I aim for a lean-to-fat ratio of 70/30. That’s 70 percent meat to 30 percent fat. You can go higher or lower depending on your preference. If you’re using something other than pork that tends to be leaner, such as lamb, you might need to add in extra fat. 
  • Always, and I mean always, keep the grinder attachment in the freezer. This means, wash it, dry it and put it back in the freezer so it is ready to go and you don’t slow down production. 

 

Next to the quality of the meat, your flavor profile is most important. Well maybe it’s top of the list because you don’t want to ruin a great piece of meat with terrible flavors. 

At my shop, we do a pretty basic recipe for our house sausage consisting of Calabrian Chiles, honey and fennel. We use this sausage on all of our pizzas, from our Spicy Pig (sausage, pepperoni, roasted jalapeños and garlic) to our Italian Mamma (sausage, kale, sweet onions and Parmesan). 

You can really do any flavor combination you want — just remember to keep it balanced. When choosing the spices and produce you’re going to use, it is important to think about how they will work with the type of meat you decide on. 

Pork is the most common meat used for sausage. It has a very neutral flavor with a good fat content and stays juicy when it’s cooked. There are other good options, too, and since so many meat pizza toppings are pork based, it’s fun to change it up. Especially if you have a lot of customers who can’t or don’t eat pork, it’s nice to be able to offer them an alternative. With so many people asking for a meatless pizza these days, you can also make a vegan sausage option. Here are a few sausage combinations to get you started:

  • Sausage: Lamb, rosemary, red wine and garlic on a pizza with thinly sliced potatoes, red onion, mozzarella and feta.
  • Sausage: Beef, leeks and oregano on a pizza with spinach, paper-thin lemon slices (fresh or flash fried), mozzarella and ricotta.
  • Sausage: pork, maple and sage on a pizza with delicata squash, rainbow chard and  Piave cheese.Sausage: Chicken, jalapeños (or other chilies) and roasted red peppers on a pizza with bell peppers, sauce, mozzarella and roasted chilies. 
  • Sausage: Vegan ground meat, mushrooms, roasted garlic, thyme on a pizza with wild mushrooms and arugula.

Pre-cook or cook on pizza? 

If you are using bulk sausage, I always choose raw. The only time I would pre-cook sausage is if it won’t cook fast enough on the pizza in the oven. This is for styles like Neapolitan, where the pie cooks in 90 seconds. Even if you pinch it paper thin, chances are it’s still going to be raw if it’s not at least partially cooked. Most other styles of pizza have a long enough bake time to allow for raw sausage. The main reason that I prefer raw sausage is that pinching it directly onto the pie makes it so that it stays juicy, fresh and the flavors meld with the rest of the pizza. It doesn’t get dried out, overly crumbly and rubbery. 

How do you decide between link sausage and bulk sausage? 

They look aesthetically different and taste different so it’s a personal choice. You should consider what texture, flavor and use you are looking for when deciding what to purchase or make. If you go with sausage links, you will need to pre-cook them and I would suggest pre-slicing them so you don’t hold up the makeline during service. One of the great things about link sausages is that they can be cross utilized as an entree or sandwich.

If you are buying your sausage, there are plenty of options for every style and form of sausage you want. You can purchase it in bulk or links, pre-cooked or raw. Most of the big companies have the basic types like sweet, mild or hot Italian and garlic. If you’re looking for something a little more special, I encourage you to check out local companies. A lot of them also offer unique flavors that reflect the region you’re in. For example, in Colorado, Boulder Sausage makes a fantastic Hatch Green Chile sausage. Another Colorado company, Frontiere Natural Meats, makes a Bison sausage. 

Being a top five pizza topping, sausage is an important part of any pizzeria menu. Whether you decide to make it yourself or buy it from one of your purveyors, there are plenty of options to choose from. Here is a sausage recipe to get you started. 

 

Spicy Sausage Pie

Get the Spicy Sausage Pie Recipe.

Audrey Kelly owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado. 

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Man on the Street: The Bagel Trend https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-the-bagel-trend/ Sat, 01 Oct 2022 00:01:10 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=144012 A ‘Hole’ New Future for Pizzerias I don’t know if pizza makers are getting inspired or bored, but I’ve noticed a trend in pizzaioli getting serious about bagel baking. Maybe you’ve seen bagel experiments on the social media accounts of Tony Gemignani, John Arena, and some of the country’s other prominent pizza makers. Are bagels […]

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A ‘Hole’ New Future for Pizzerias

I don’t know if pizza makers are getting inspired or bored, but I’ve noticed a trend in pizzaioli getting serious about bagel baking. Maybe you’ve seen bagel experiments on the social media accounts of Tony Gemignani, John Arena, and some of the country’s other prominent pizza makers. Are bagels the next big trend in pizzerias or is this just a fad? 

We first have to acknowledge the cosmic connection between pizza and bagels. Introduced to the U.S. as immigrant foods, both have undergone transformations resulting in versions that are more popular than their ancestors. Their doughs are made from the same basic ingredients (flour, salt, water and yeast) and even share the same high protein flour. Both products are the subject of a common (yet inaccurate) myth that the best versions are made with sacred New York tap water. And lest we forget that when pizza and bagel are combined, they create a dish that can be eaten in the morning, in the evening and even at suppertime.

The first pizza maven I saw crossing the tracks was Jeff Krupman. Back in 2018, he added the Bagel Macher brand to his Bay Area pizzeria, Pizza Hacker. It was a tasty way to honor his Eastern European Jewish roots within the context of his playful pizza restaurant. By doing so, he was able to utilize a daypart during which he was previously closed. 

Next came Phil Korshak, former head pizza maker at Home Slice Pizza in Austin, Texas. He dove head-first into bagels, starting with a project in Minneapolis. Phil ended up in South Philadelphia to open his eponymous bagel shop in 2021. Based on the rave reviews and daily sell-outs, I’d say he made the right move.

Tony Gemignani caught the bug and lit up San Francisco with his launch of Dago Bagel, a brand available at his North Beach Toscano Brothers Bakery and Italian grocery, Giovanni’s Italian Specialties.

Even though pizza and bagels share common ingredients, the two doughs aren’t necessarily interchangeable. While pizza dough has been trending towards higher hydration these past few years, bagels are relatively low in water content. That’s because the classic New York bagel isn’t just a roll with a hole in the center; it’s a dense bread with a chewy exterior. To get that chewy crust, a proper bagel is boiled before the bake. That quick gelatinization of the bagel’s exterior is what prevents the bread from expanding into a light and fluffy loaf. 

If you’re thinking about adding bagels to your repertoire, keep in mind the additional space and equipment you’ll need to boil, bake and store your bagels. Boiling means you’ll need a large pot or boiling tub. Classic bagel shops bake on burlap-lined wooden baking boards before flipping their rounds onto the oven hearth. Then there are the proofing trays and speed racks you’ll need to stage your bagels overnight (plus the walk-in space to fit them). Nothing a pizzeria can’t manage on a small scale, but definitely a major project for a large-scale operation.

I love seeing pizza makers stepping out of their comfort zones to experiment with other bread products, especially one as close to my heart as bagels. The few examples I’ve mentioned have proven that great bagels, much like great pizza, are possible far beyond the confines of New York City’s five boroughs. 

SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org  Instagram: @scottspizzatours

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A Good, Versatile Vodka Sauce https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/a-good-versatile-vodka-sauce/ Sat, 01 Oct 2022 00:01:07 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=144034 “Vodka sauce is wonderful. Pairing it with penne is classier, but rigatoni is more subversive.” — Chef Joe Bianco High Spirits There are more ways to make vodka sauce than there are galaxies in the sky. Just read the glorious online promises from bloggers and writers exalting their recipes with “best ever” or “perfect way.” […]

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“Vodka sauce is wonderful. Pairing it with penne is classier, but rigatoni is more subversive.”
Chef Joe Bianco

High Spirits

There are more ways to make vodka sauce than there are galaxies in the sky. Just read the glorious online promises from bloggers and writers exalting their recipes with “best ever” or “perfect way.” Other recipes are peppered with “simple trick” or “transformative” and even “positively magical.” Penne alla Vodka is one of the most popular pasta dishes in the United States, but there is a huge difference between making a plate of pasta in a controlled recipe kitchen and making sixty pasta plates an hour in the hot chaos of a real restaurant. It is in this frenetic insanity where the restaurant chef shines, because their only concern is the sauce, the pasta and the dish. This is where vodka sauce gets personal. 

 

Shaken, not stirred

The history of vodka sauce is as complex as the flavor itself and shaky at best. One claim is from James Doty, a Columbia University graduate student. Dante Restaurant in Bologna, Italy, is proud to say that their chef invented the dish, but there is a Roman chef that says he invented Penne alla Vodka to popularize vodka in Italy where wine is king. Others say it was an invention by Italian American chef Luigi Franzese of Orsini restaurant in New York. Whatever you believe, the combination of pasta, tomatoes, cream, cheese and vodka is genius. This explains why it is the fourth most popular pasta dish in America according to Taste Atlas.  

 

Smirnoff the Makeup

Many pasta aficionados say that the addition of vodka both elevates the tomato flavor and makes the sauce creamier. Vodka, like other distilled spirits, enhances the release of fruity esters and other aromas at low percentages because the alcohol molecules have a slightly sweet taste and a pungent hotness. As the alcohol is cooked off in the sauce, the sweetness of the tomatoes is enhanced while the bitterness of the boozy alcohol taste disappears, leaving only a nuanced touch of heat.

On the flip side of this, famous author and teacher James Peterson says in his James Beard Award-winning Book Sauces: “Vodka is useless in sauce making because it is a completely neutral-tasting product.”

Vodka sauce is a distant cousin to Sauce Aurore, which means sunrise in French and was a specialty of Chef Giovanni de Negris at La Primavera restaurant in Chicago. He paired his tomato puree with a thick béchamel and a medley of vegetables and proteins. It can also be made with tomato puree and sauce velouté (or a sauce supreme). 

 

Expand your Vodkabulary

Let’s get down and dirty and muddle through the many ways that chefs put their individual flavor branding upon vodka cream sauce. 

  • Penne vs. Rigatoni: Both tube-shaped pastas are used in restaurants. Some say that penne cooks better in a sauté pan by keeping its shape under high heat. Others say that rigatoni holds the sauce and cheese better, allowing the eater more flavorful punch per forkful.
  • Many cooks demand only fresh tomatoes in vodka sauce, while others say that canned tomatoes are just as good and allow for consistency on the pasta line. Whole San Marzano tomatoes are sometimes used, but I prefer the plum tomatoes from California for their sweetness and dense flesh. You can run either type of whole tomatoes through a food mill or just break them apart with their hands for a chunkier sauce.
  • Numerous recipes call for both butter and olive oil while sautéing diced onions. A trick from the old timers in Italy is to always put the onions in the pan before the fats heat up. This ensures a better amalgamation of the allium flavor base as the onions heat up. 
  • Many recipes call for a smoky fat start like pancetta, bacon or even prosciutto di Parma. Added before the onions to give more flavor pleasure to carnivores. Others, like me, add Prosciutto di Parma cracklings to add extra crunchy and meaty texture to each forkful. 
  • Some people like to add two or three smashed garlic cloves to the sautéing onions for that extra burst of flavor while others, like Chef Joe Bianco, swears by putting a whole large sprig of basil immediately after adding the vodka to the sauce. 
  • Add a touch of excitement by throwing in a pinch of red pepper flakes while sautéing.
  • Many restaurants cook the penne very al dente or partially cooked and do not rinse the pasta, ensuring that the starches add more creaminess to the sauce. They then add the pasta to the heated sauce, then pasta water and cook the pasta for an extended period in the sauce, followed by the Parmigiano or Romano cheeses only after the heat has been turned off. 
  • Some old Italian chefs have a secret of tossing grated Parmigiano or Romano directly on just-cooked pasta before adding the heated sauce. This ensures that each pasta piece is coated with cheese.

 

Absolute Flavor

Many see vodka as a good partner for other foods. Here are some flavors that pair well with vodka: sugar, lemon and lime juice, green olives, beef consommé, apples, ginger, horseradish, cucumber, beet, caraway, celery, carrot juice, pineapple, cilantro, berries, black pepper, oats, melon, mango and vanilla.

Here are a few dishes that show the flexibility of a good vodka cream sauce:

  • Paglia e Fieno with Prawns and Vodka
  • Veal Agnolotti with Gorgonzola Vodka sauce
  • Penne alla Vodka with Spinach and Chicken
  • Farfelle with Pancetta and Vodka Cream
  • Linguine with Lobster Vodka sauce
  • Vodka Creamed Chicken Wings
  • Shrimp Cannelloni with Vodka Basil sauce

 

Rigatoni with Vodka Sauce and Prosciutto di Parma CracklingsRigatoni with Vodka Sauce and Prosciutto di Parma Cracklings

This is probably the best pasta I’ve ever made. This version takes shape with the little nuggets and tips from my years in kitchens and talking to chefs. Adding pasta water to the sauce rewards you with a wonderfully luscious sauce and the small chunks of tomato flesh really pop around the cream sauce and crispy Prosciutto.

Get the Rigatoni with Vodka Sauce and Prosciutto di Parma Cracklings Recipe.

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East Coast Seafood Inspiration for the Pizza Menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/east-coast-seafood-inspiration-for-the-pizza-menu/ Thu, 01 Sep 2022 00:05:11 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=143923 Pier Pressure As I get ready for the Pizza and Pasta Northeast show in Atlantic City this coming October 16th, I’ve been thinking of that wonderful Atlantic Ocean breeze, the boardwalk and the smell of seafood… on pizza. In fact, Tony’s Baltimore Grill here in AC has a Clams Casino Pizza that is a prime […]

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Pier Pressure

As I get ready for the Pizza and Pasta Northeast show in Atlantic City this coming October 16th, I’ve been thinking of that wonderful Atlantic Ocean breeze, the boardwalk and the smell of seafood… on pizza. In fact, Tony’s Baltimore Grill here in AC has a Clams Casino Pizza that is a prime example of an exquisite East Coast Seafood Pizza. It’s been on the menu since 1927 and has bacon, onion, green peppers and clams with their natural juice. Freshly grated pecorino soaks up that briny clam liquor with a layer of mozzarella finished with oregano. This is a delicious homage to their seaside location in Atlantic City.

Seafood paired with wheat has its roots buried in history across the globe. In the Venetian lagoons, creamed salt cod was spread on bread. The Scandinavians marinated herring in milk, mustard, vinegar, allspice, bay and onion and served it on Norwegian crispbreads or rye hardtack rings. The lime marinated mackerel and kingfish ceviche from the Yucatan offers all the citrusy heat from chilies and is served on tortillas. In Italy today, you may see pizzas named Frutti di Mare which are typically cheeseless with tomato and topped with squid, mussels and scampi. 

Wu Tang Clam

For many years, seafood pizzas were scoffed at by pizza purists as an abomination, especially if they contained cheeses. But along the East Coast of the United States, where seafood is plentiful, pizza chefs used many types of seafood on pizzas to awaiting crowds. In New York, the clams were so abundant in Little Neck Bay that prospectors moved to Queens just to harvest the clams to supply the iconic restaurants like Whytes on Fulton that served their famous soft clams on toast. The Sicilian version of Sfincioni was reportedly also served on Prince Street. In New Haven, the giant hard-shell clams baked on proprietary wheat crusts baked in coal-fired ovens with plenty of garlic, Romano cheese and extra virgin have catapulted pizzerias into hall of fame status. Down south, the white shrimp scampi pizzas of the South Carolina coast are still turning heads and the seafood pizzas in the Florida Keys are baked with shrimp, lobster, scallops and crab meat in a luscious Alfredo sauce.

The Gill of your Dreams

It’s no secret that seafood pizzas are popular. Even in land-locked Ohio, I’ve brought on numerous seafood pizza specialties which are still on my menus today. Here a few tips to sell Atlantic seafood in your pizzeria.

  1. Don’t skimp on seafood. If you must make a seafood pizza smaller to reach your food cost vs. sales cost mark, then do it. No one likes a seafood skinflint or a large pizza with practically no seafood on it.
  2. Try to use only fresh seafood. Pre-breaded seafood made on refrigerated assembly lines is terrible. Fresh frozen seafood like calamari and shrimp are best when using accredited ServeSafe thawing methods and training your staff to recognize bad seafood.
  3. Market your seafood pizza using tried-and-true dishes. Great sauce and seafood combinations have been on people’s radar for a long time. Running a line of Asian, Mexican, Spanish as well as Italian flavor profiles will sell more pizza because customers know them.

On Squid Row

Here is some wonderful seafood that has proven to be a delicious accompaniment to different wheat crusts and a variety of sauces and production methods.

Shrimp. Believe it or not, shrimp is a good seller on pizza if you can get a good “spread” across the pie. This is best done by cutting large shrimp in half horizontally. Smaller and krill shrimp cannot cover the top of a large pie very well and frozen krill shrimp smells way too strong. Preparations like Cajun etouffee, Mexican avocado shrimp, garlic shrimp, shrimp Alfredo and lemon cream shrimp pizza are game changers. Toppings like basil, garlic, bacon, arugula, beans, chili peppers, onions, mint, mustard, lemon, avocado, tomatoes, lime, beans, pistachio nuts and even crab are good with shrimp.

Smoked Salmon. This topping made famous in Wolfgang Puck’s Spago can be served numerous ways on a pizza. This fish does not fare well in the oven, so by placing it atop the pizza, you will both save the flavor and color of the cure. Many foods go well with this fish like wasabi, sour cream, red onion, capers, hard-boiled egg, arugula, mascarpone, everything spice, avocado, horseradish crema, dill, cream cheese, chervil, chives, cilantro, lemon, potato, shallots, cucumber and mint.

Clams. Many East Coast pizzerias have well-earned reputations based on their clam pizzas. Many arguments occur on who has the best clam pie, but one thing stays true; using fresh clams is the key. Clams are best with garlic, Romano, extra virgin, tomato, bacon, shallots, cream, corn, chili peppers, potatoes, onions, parsley and lemon.

Calamari. This is a tricky topping. Grilled and sauteed squid will turn chewy like gum swimming atop cheese in a box. Ultra-crisp, deep-fried calamari is delicious on pizza, especially a charred, grilled crusted pie, but only if it can be served right away. Wonderful with flavored aiolis, tomato, parsley, lemon, bell peppers, garlic, black pepper, basil, orange and anchovies.

Tuna. (Yes, I’m gonna go there…) Along with the popularity of sushi and sashimi, comes the tuna topped pizza like the one at Yellowtail in Las Vegas or the Poke pizzas of Hawaii. This is probably not feasible on large pies but fantastic when thinly sliced, raw tuna is paired with a crisp crust and toppings like, cilantro, microgreens, truffle oils, wasabi, dried shrimp, crème fraiche, cream cheese, teriyaki, hoisin, tortilla crisps, red onion, corn, avocado, arugula, cumin, scallion, sesame oil, lemon, chili peppers and chives. Tinned tuna is also very good. My “Hot Tuna” Pizza named after the Rock and Roll Hall of Famer Jorma Kaukonen, (and my neighbor) has been on my menu for 15 years. 

 

East Coast Clam Pizza 

East Coast Clam PizzaI just adore the combination of a great crisp crust with lots of fresh-shucked clams, garlic, strong, salty cheese and my pie-hole. This is a giant nod to all those great East Coast pizzerias that have been making this simple masterpiece for years. 

Get the East Coast Clam Pizza recipe.

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Man on the Street: Death of the Dollar Slice https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-death-of-the-dollar-slice/ Thu, 01 Sep 2022 00:01:34 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=143908 New York City has long been a city of slices. While other locales thrive on either dine-in or takeout, NYC’s pedestrian culture has led to a tradition of consuming individual slices (of cheese pizza) on-the-go. Just over a decade ago, in the wake of the near collapse of the financial industry, a caricature of the […]

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New York City has long been a city of slices. While other locales thrive on either dine-in or takeout, NYC’s pedestrian culture has led to a tradition of consuming individual slices (of cheese pizza) on-the-go. Just over a decade ago, in the wake of the near collapse of the financial industry, a caricature of the New York slice emerged. Bare bones slice shops popped up in areas with high foot traffic, promising hot cheesy slabs on paper plates for just a buck. Their margins were super low, but high sales volume made up for it. These pizzerias presented a business model that worked great with predictable sales and expenses, but recent economic changes clearly point to the end of the dollar slice genre.  

Before I get into all the reasons the reign of the dollar slice is coming to an end, I should first mention that these pizzerias were never built to last. Once your rent goes up, the margins fly out the window. Since most NYC leases last for 10 years (with five-year extension options), the runway was clear from the start. That’s the primary reason we’re seeing dollar slice shops close their doors.

Scott Wiener Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Scott Wiener
Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Of course, these dollar slice shops are dealing with the same ingredient cost increases as everybody else across the country. It wouldn’t be such a big deal if sales volume increased to cover the difference, but the pandemic completely gutted foot traffic on the streets in areas with lots of offices because so many companies are still working remotely. 

It’s pretty clear which shops knew the end would come and which ones were oblivious. The pizzerias with names that specifically reference their pricing (99 Cent Fresh Pizza, 99 Cent Express, $1 Slice, etc.) were doomed from the start. Tying your restaurant’s identity to price doesn’t leave much wiggle room. Now these places are in the uncomfortable position of having a name that promises one price and a menu that reveals another. I always get a laugh out of seeing dollar slice shops with big signs that say “$1.50 slice.” 

The smarter shops have names that don’t lean into pricing. There are at least nine locations of 2 Bros. Pizza, and they started upping their prices even before the pandemic. The folks behind 2 Bros. Pizza even had the foresight to launch two additional brands selling market price slices. One called Upside, and another called Norm’s, because they knew the dollar slice model was temporary. 

I’m not upset about the loss of these dollar slice shops. While I do love the fact that a city with such a high cost of living still has affordable food options, I’ve always thought of the dollar slice shops as doing a disservice to New York pizza. They’ve devalued the New York slice by lowering consumer expectations. We already have the big delivery chains for convenience and pricing, so the dollar slice trend only confused the public with regards to what to expect from slice shops. I often get people on pizza tours who use the term dollar slice to refer to all by-the-slice pizzerias. It’s offensive. 

For the consumer, a high-quality New York slice is still the affordable and delicious solution for on-the-go dining. According to Food & Wine, the average slice price in NYC is just $3.14, which is lower than the national average! We’re even experiencing somewhat of a renaissance of excellent slice shops with newcomers like Lucia, Scarr’s, L’industrie, and Upside garnering national attention. In a way, the loss of the dollar slice is a good thing for the identity of the sacred New York slice.

SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org  Instagram: @scottspizzatours

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What Makes a Good Vegetable-centric pizza? https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/what-makes-a-good-vegetable-centric-pizza/ Thu, 01 Sep 2022 00:01:15 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=143921 Veg Fest Veggie toppings often get put into two categories: very simple or overly complicated. I find that pizzerias either offer the most basic vegetables, such as sliced mushrooms or raw bell peppers, or make things that sound extremely time consuming. When I’m designing vegetable-centric pies, I try to land right in the middle of […]

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Veg Fest

Veggie toppings often get put into two categories: very simple or overly complicated. I find that pizzerias either offer the most basic vegetables, such as sliced mushrooms or raw bell peppers, or make things that sound extremely time consuming. When I’m designing vegetable-centric pies, I try to land right in the middle of the two. I do this by utilizing the veggies in their raw, uncomplicated form but with an added flavor bomb. 

There are many ways to go about this. It can be as simple as prepping vegetables in different ways, like pickling, roasting, frying or pureeing them or you can get fancy with a pesto or sauce. Whether you are making a vegetarian or a meat-heavy pizza, the most important thing is to have a balanced pie. This means not only how it tastes from incorporating elements of sweet, salty, bitter and umami but also by employing varying textures. Shoot for using a few different ones such as chewy, crunchy, soft, creamy and firm. 

There are many ways to go about constructing a dynamite vegetation pizza. Here are a few good guidelines:

Add something decadent. Just because there is no meat doesn’t mean you can’t feel indulgent with vegetables. Whether it is finishing the pie with burrata or adding a vegan pesto (if you’re also nixing dairy), give your pie that extra up level. 

Don’t over sauce. Pick one sauce and stick to it. You don’t want to overpower flavors, nor do you want to end up with a soupy pizza since most vegetables naturally contain a lot of water. 

Make sure you have a salty star. I think a lot of people gravitate towards meat-heavy pies because they want to satisfy their salt-cravings. Done right, veggie pies can also accomplish this. Think roasted Brussels sprouts (just give it a try, I don’t think you’ll be disappointed), fried eggplant and olives.

Add texture. I mentioned it above and I’ll say it again, not only is it important to have a balanced pizza flavor wise, but also texturally. You can achieve these textures by preparing your vegetables different ways. I think that this is an important element for any pizza but especially for veggie pies. I love to combine fresh vegetables with roasted, sautéed or pickled ones to elevate the mouth feel of the pizza. Take onions for example. A simple red or yellow onion will taste completely different if you dice it, slice it paper thin, roast it or pickle it. 

Look for inspiration seasonally. Not all vegetables are good year-round. Sure, you can most likely find tomatoes in the middle of January, but it doesn’t mean that you should use them. The flavor you get from a fresh tomato in peak season simply can’t be replicated. 

Don’t forget about your post-bake finishing toppings. These can really make a pizza. It’s the first thing that will hit your tastes buds and can be visually stunning. Finishers are also a great place to add some crunch to your pizza. Use ingredients like pumpkin seeds, candied walnuts, shaved raw asparagus, sweetie drops or snap peas. 

Don’t overcook the vegetables. If you are using good quality produce, let the flavors speak for themselves. I know a lot of people will sauté spinach or mushrooms before adding them to their pizzas, but I feel this isn’t always necessary. If you’re sautéing them with other items such as garlic or herbs and the point is to create a specific flavor profile, then go right ahead. If you are doing it just to cook them down, then I would say it is unnecessary as most vegetables will cook in the time it takes to bake your pizza. There are of course exceptions, a few being: if you are using a wood-fired oven and the pie cooks in 90 seconds or certain vegetables like beets or eggplant take longer to cook. 

Add some heat. I’m a huge fan of spice. I would say that at least half of my menu has an added heat element whether it is roasted jalapeños, crushed Calabrian chiles or spicy honey. I love how spice interacts with the other elements of the pizza and always leaves your taste buds reaching for more. Heat is also a great way to offset sweeter or saltier toppings.

 

When I’m creating new vegetarian pizzas at my shop, I try to keep all of these ideas in mind. Usually I start with one vegetable or flavor profile and build the pizza from there. For example, one of our most popular pizzas, the Green Mountain, is based off a spinach and ricotta calzone that my mom used to make. The pizza is basically a deconstructed version. We start with a mountain of raw fresh spinach, shredded mozzarella, chopped garlic in extra virgin olive oil and dollops of ricotta. After these ingredients get cooked down on the pizza in the oven, we pull it out and top it with cold, sliced Castelveltrano olives, shaved Parmesan and fresh basil. To me, this has all of the elements a pizza (veggie or not) should have. The cooked down spinach and ricotta creates a creaminess, the garlic adds a punch and the post-oven olives provide a salty, crunchy burst. Another seasonal pizza that I love highlights fresh peaches. Made with sliced jalapeños for added heat, mozzarella and finished with juicy, sliced peaches, creamy burrata, fresh arugula for some crunch and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Sauce is also a fantastic way to create an intriguing veggie pie. You can use simple veggies on top of a more complex base to build a flavorful pizza. If you’re looking for a tomato-based sauce, try vodka or an arrabbiata. If you prefer more of a white pie, you can embellish on a béchamel or play around with different pestos. There are tons of different flavor combinations you can make with pesto depending on the nuts, greens and herbs you use. 

Some Veggie Pizza combinations to get you started:

  • Assorted wild mushrooms, mozzarella, Gouda, roasted garlic, pickled garlic scapes and finished with burrata.
  • Shaved summer squash and zucchini, ricotta, mozzarella, drizzled with pesto and finished with toasted pumpkin seeds. 
  • Marinara sauce, roasted eggplant, garlic, mozzarella, finished with stracciatella and fresh basil.
  • Purple potatoes (thinly sliced), fresh mozzarella, thyme, rosemary, extra virgin olive oil. 
  • Roasted chiles (hatch green, jalapeños, or whatever else you have on hand), Brussels sprouts, mozzarella, roasted sweet onions, finished with queso fresco and cilantro.

When you are designing your veggie pizza options, I encourage you to have at least a few toppings that are both interesting to the palate while being easy to prep and execute. One of the beautiful things about pizza is that you can take simple ingredients and when you combine them on a pie, they all come together. You don’t have to over think it or over-prep them. The pizza does the work for you with the sauce and cheese acting as a cohesive element.

Audrey Kelly  owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado. 

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Three Versatile Pasta Cuts to Menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/three-versatile-pasta-cuts-to-menu/ Thu, 01 Sep 2022 00:01:10 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=143922 Explore pasta ideas with storage and prep in mind While the cost of goods and labor continue to soar, we must continue to find creative ways to provide value to our guests while keeping our bottom line in check. What I love most about pasta is that it is super versatile and can be highly […]

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Explore pasta ideas with storage and prep in mind

While the cost of goods and labor continue to soar, we must continue to find creative ways to provide value to our guests while keeping our bottom line in check. What I love most about pasta is that it is super versatile and can be highly profitable. You can create so many great tasting options using a few cuts of pasta and ingredients that you already have in your prep table. 

When considering which cuts of pasta to feature on your menu, think about how much space you have in your walk in to store par cooked pastas. For maximum efficiency, dry pasta will need to be par-cooked, pre portioned and re-thermalized to order. The amount of space that you can dedicate to this will determine how many cuts you decide to offer. You can do a lot with two or three cuts which will save prep time and space on your line. 

Three of my favorite cuts are rigatoni, penne and homestyle fettuccine.

Rigatoni is a sturdy pasta and stands up to par cooking and rethermalizing but beware of over cooking this pasta because it will flatten out and break. It is a great pasta for dishes like chicken bacon mac and cheese because when prepared properly, it holds heavy sauces well without flattening out. Because it is a larger cut, it will really fill up the bowl and presents beautifully at the table. From a simple rigatoni with marinara and broiled mozzarella, to a spicy Pasta Arrabbiata using your house marinara, ground beef and crushed red pepper, you can create a lot of tasty options with this versatile cut.

Penne or Mostaccioli (more common in some regions) is staple on any Italian table. What is the difference you may ask? Penne has ridges and usually has a thicker wall, while Mostaccioli is smooth with a slightly thinner wall and can have a slightly smaller diameter, but they are both cut on the bias. I would go with what is more commonly recognized in your region. People tend to stick to what they know. The benefit to choosing this cut of pasta is that it is tough! You really have to try to overcook it and it rarely falls apart. It is dense and can take a beating. It makes a great bed for Chicken or Eggplant Parmigiana. Try a Penne Ala Vodka, again using your house marinara, fresh shaved garlic, crushed red pepper, a hint of Alfredo and of course a generous pour of vodka for a tasty departure from the traditional Baked Mostaccioli. 

Another favorite cut of pasta for me is “thick” or “homestyle” fettuccini. This is also a pasta that can take a lot of abuse. It doesn’t over cook easily and like rigatoni, it loves sauce! Of course, there is the traditional Fettuccine Alfredo, or fettuccine with marinara, but think about the ingredients that you have available to you. Have fun with your recipes. Take for instance your traditional Alfredo sauce, add sliced picante peppers and simmer. Toss in your fettuccine and top with grilled shrimp. 

A Wholly Stromboli favorite is our Mediterranean Pasta. This dish features many of the ingredients found in our pizza prep table which is what made it so fun to create. Sliced onion, bell pepper, mushroom, fresh shaved garlic, artichoke hearts and roasted red peppers, sautéed and tossed with fettuccine in a brown butter sauce. Add chicken or shrimp and you’ve got a light but filling pasta dish that is a crowd favorite.  

The other piece of advice I would give is consider which modifications you will allow. The “dough side” of your kitchen line works more like an assembly line. You work from one ticket to the next in succession. Dough, sauce, cheese, top, bake. A sauté line has so many moving parts and so many pieces that have to work in perfect harmony. Timing is everything! You will have multiple tickets in different stages of completion, take your eye off the ball and you risk having over cooked mushy pasta, blackened Shrimp Scampi, or thick clumpy Chicken Marsala. 

Keeping your sauté team focused and following recipes is key. My point is, having your sauté cooks running around pulling ingredients from all over the kitchen that are not featured on your menu puts a huge stick in their spokes. Not to mention, that if you don’t have a recipe for that ingredient, no one knows how much “sliced pepperoni” to put in the “fettuccine, no sauce add extra olive oil, and shaved garlic”. Do we sauté the pepperoni, or dump it on the top cold? What about extra olive oil? How much is extra and how much do you charge for all of this? And don’t think that this guest won’t complain if this build-your-own nightmare concoction doesn’t come out the same the next time they strong arm your server into sending this point and grunt nightmare to the kitchen. Menus serve to create proper food costing, fair pricing and consistency through brand standards. Creating chaos in your kitchen by giving in to every whim serves no one. Leave that to the big chains, soon their cooks and servers may figure out they don’t have to put up with that nonsense if they worked for you.

While pizza and stromboli will always have my heart, the rising cost of cheese and proteins make the 20-inch pies and stuffed to the gills stromboli that we are known for a little bit of a challenge where COGS are concerned. Finding the sweet spot is key here. There is a fine line between making margin and turning off your guests. You may not hit 20 percent cost of goods on 20-inch pies and 30-inch stromboli, however, if carry a 16 to 18 percent cost of goods on Fettuccine Alfredo, baked cheese ravioli or even Shrimp Scampi this will help balance out your over all food costs while still providing your guests with value, fair pricing and happy tummies! 


Don’t miss Melissa Rickman’s Pasta Demo Sunday, October 16  at 12 p.m. EST at Pizza and Pasta Northeast in Atlantic City. More at PizzaandPastaExpo.com.


MELISSA RICKMAN  is co-founder of Wholly Stromboli in Fort Lupton, Colorado, and member of the World Pizza Champions.

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Stop snoozing and join the pickled pizza craze! https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/stop-snoozing-and-join-the-pickled-pizza-craze/ Mon, 01 Aug 2022 00:01:56 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=143756 Rise and Brine Pickles have been around my restaurant a long time. In my pizzeria, the staff frequently requests that we revive some sort of pickle recipe. Therefore, three months ago, Reuben, my operations manager, introduced our “Death Pickle for Cutie” pizza again. (The title of which came from a national band who played a […]

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Rise and Brine

Pickles have been around my restaurant a long time. In my pizzeria, the staff frequently requests that we revive some sort of pickle recipe. Therefore, three months ago, Reuben, my operations manager, introduced our “Death Pickle for Cutie” pizza again. (The title of which came from a national band who played a festival nearby.) With almost no advertising or fanfare, this pizza has become one of our top sellers with the young folks in town. The ultra-thin crust, Asiago cream sauce, mozzarella, provolone, cheddar, roasted potatoes, ranch dressing and plenty of pickles is a beauty to behold! But, to some, it is a culinary abomination. Until they sink their pompous teeth into its crunchy crust and cream, and their flavor receptors dodge from ranch to potato to pickle to cheese. If I must take a ribbing from the occasional culinary elitists, so be it. I’ll just throw out my best defensive term for these types of pizzas: “But it’s Disgustalicious!” 

Vlasic Rock

The Greeks and Romans were very adept at building out elaborate infrastructure with rocks and boulders, but many people don’t know that they were prolific picklers also, especially in the lower classes. These poor peasants had no choice but to forage to keep themselves fed. Pickling recipes of the Greeks and Romans abound with beets, turnips, mushrooms, olives, scallions, onions, radishes and cabbages. Of course, a lot of this pickling depended upon the curing mixture. The Romans were esteemed picklers and considered the vinegar of Egypt the best at pickling flowers, herbs, roots and even small pieces of meat which were kept in large cylinders with wide mouths. 

Quit Gherkin my Chain

Today, you can go to any restaurant and find pickles everywhere even though some of the public is clueless of what a pickle cure can consist of. The many clay pickling jars sitting on antiques store shelves here in Ohio attest to the pickling abilities of the first settlers from Germany, where sauerkraut was king. Just cutting the cabbage and mixing it with salt enabled these people to eat great, digestible and flavorful food without the use of refrigeration. These days there are many different pickle varieties and methods. Here are some different pickles and uses in your pizzeria.

  • Cucumbers. Most farmers have either the small compact seeded cucumbers or large, sloppy-seeded cukes that are better for salad. Just slice the smaller, pickling cukes thin, adding salt and sugar in a bowl for just 10 minutes and the cukes will go limp. You can then add lemon or lime juice, a touch of vinegar or more salt and spices for a great addition to salads, sandwiches or even pizzas. The cooked method usually requires heating up vinegar and sugar with salt and cloves, mustard seed, garlic, onion, etc. until nearly boiling, then just pouring it on the cucumbers. This method does take some of the natural taste away from the cucumber, but these will last longer in the fridge. (Remember, always follow your health standards for cleaning jars and keeping pickles.)
  • Daikon, turnips and/or kohlrabi. These fabulous dense roots, except kohlrabi which grows above ground, come in many sizes and colors that can bring a pizza some eye-popping exposure. I use a Japanese mandolin to slice all three super-thin, then a quick pickle with salt and sugar, tossing them in their own extruded juices. These then can last for a week under refrigeration. If you use vinegar or citrus to further flavor the colored daikon, they will lose their flavor. For the turnips, you may store with rehydrated kombu for more umami.
  • Pickled Mushrooms. Perfect for appetizers or pizza toppings. There are numerous variations for these, but I like the simplicity of quickly roasting one pound of the smallest fresh mushrooms with extra virgin olive oil and a touch of salt in a 355 F oven for only 8 to 10 minutes. Fill a large bowl with a half-lemon squeeze, tablespoons of chopped garlic, parsley, sugar and basil. Then a teaspoon each of garlic powder, onion powder, salt, black pepper and chopped rosemary. Place this into a clean jar and it will store for 3 to 4 weeks.
  • Preserved Lemons. This Moroccan fave is great for adding a sharp, acidic balance to a pizza or calzone or even ground into a cream sauce to achieve a remarkable flavor level. Just cut the lemons into quarters and toss with sea salt into a wide-mouthed jar, add some lemon juice from another lemon and store for 3 to 4 weeks without refrigeration, turning every so often.
  • Giardiniera. Being from Chicago, I love giardiniera, especially with our Italian beef sandwiches. This is best made in the middle of summer when all the veggies are popping. Cut two pounds total of all these vegetables — cauliflower, carrot, bell pepper, celery, serrano or jalapeños, small cucumbers, (if you can find them) turnips and radishes. In a large pot, place 5 cups vinegar, 1 cup water, 1 chopped onion, 3 garlic cloves, tablespoons each of salt, chopped rosemary, black peppercorns, coriander and oregano. Bring to almost boiling, stirring the vegetables occasionally for 2 minutes, then drain. Strain the veggies and place into a large bowl and pour ½ cup of extra virgin olive oil on them and toss. Place the giardiniera into clean jars then pour the now-cooled pickling liquid into them and seal tight. 

Pickolus Cage

Like actors, pickles have their starring and co-starring roles. Pickles are some of the best partners for cheese. Not because they taste alike but because they are the opposite flavor profiles. This is what is known as a “foil” and their acidity cuts through any cheesy creaminess in your mouth, refreshing the palate for another bite. Here are some great combinations for pickles.

  • Cheeses: Cheddar is perfect for dill pickles, but pickled cherries are best with gorgonzola or big blue cheeses. Pickled onions are perfect with Gruyere, Swiss and other alpine cheeses. Pickled blueberries or strawberries go best with Brie and fromage blanc. Strong, salty cheeses, like aged provolone, are perfect for kimchi. In my opinion, cream cheese goes well with every pickle!
  • Meats: Italian sausage is wonderful with pickled onion, banana peppers and pickled jalapeño. Pork belly is very fatty and is very tasty with sauerkraut and a sweet balsamic glaze. Chicken pizzas are wonderful with cream sauces, pickled daikon and cashews. Pepperoni benefits from a sweeter pickle like small gherkins. Buffalo chicken wings are surprisingly great with teriyaki and pickled beets. 

Death Pickle for Cutie

Get the Death Pickle for Cutie recipe.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Fall Menus: Some recipes I love when autumn rolls around https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/some-recipes-i-love-when-autumn-rolls-around/ Mon, 01 Aug 2022 00:01:43 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=143758 Fall Guy Fall is by far my favorite season. As the weather cools and thoughts turn to football, Halloween and, of course, National Pizza Month, I always get a little bit of nostalgia. I think of trick-or-treating as a kid, pumpkin pies, going to football games with my grandfather. I think of the leaves turning […]

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Fall Guy

Fall is by far my favorite season. As the weather cools and thoughts turn to football, Halloween and, of course, National Pizza Month, I always get a little bit of nostalgia. I think of trick-or-treating as a kid, pumpkin pies, going to football games with my grandfather. I think of the leaves turning colors in the Midwest where I grew up. Fall, to me, equals comfort.

While we’re still in the dog days of summer as you read this article, many of you are planning your seasonal fall menus. Here are some items I personally love that just might be a good fit for your autumn rotation. As always, I encourage you to experiment and make these your own.

  1. Mushroom and Cheese Ravioli
  2. Béchamel Sauce
  3. Pizza Stuffed Mushroom
  4. Stuffed Eggplant

Jeremy White is Editor-in-Chief at Pizza Today.

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Man on the Street: The Many Faces of Plant Based https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-the-many-faces-of-plant-based/ Mon, 01 Aug 2022 00:01:04 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=143725 We all know that plant-based pizza is one of the fastest growing segments in the pizza biz today. Anyone who attended Pizza Expo either this year or in 2021 remembers running into another plant-based meat or cheese company every 20 steps. People are turning to plant-based diets for health reasons, environmental reasons and animal cruelty […]

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We all know that plant-based pizza is one of the fastest growing segments in the pizza biz today. Anyone who attended Pizza Expo either this year or in 2021 remembers running into another plant-based meat or cheese company every
20 steps. People are turning to plant-based diets for health reasons, environmental reasons and animal cruelty avoidance. Even though I’m an omnivore myself, I’m well aware of how industrial meat and cheese operations are not good for our bodies or the planet. That’s why I love seeing so many pizzerias adopting plant-based options for their menus. My only fear is that restaurants making the leap from animal-full to animal-free might be soaring past the wide gap of consumers in between. 

At the far end of the plant-based spectrum are people like my brother, who avoid any and all animal products. That includes meat, cheese, eggs, milk, honey and sometimes even refined sugar. Compared to five years ago, the market for vegan meats and cheeses has exploded to such an extent that vegans like my brother have less and less of an issue navigating through restaurants. All these new plant-based products are ending up on plant-based menus, which makes vegans extremely happy.

The big splash has been all the meat substitutes that boast the flavor and texture of the real thing. Some vegan meats even claim to “bleed!” The problem here is that some customers don’t want something that looks and tastes like the thing they’re trying to avoid. Products like these miss the point for some vegans, who would prefer straight talk over marketing gibberish. They want you to call it jackfruit, not “vegan pulled pork.” Instead of “vegan ricotta,” they want cashew cheese. 

The even bigger missing market are those stuck between the animal-free and animal-full. My friend Amy is a vegetarian who feels left out when she sees a list of pizzas with all the meats and cheese followed by a secondary menu with only plant-based substitutes. She would love to try your meatless sausage or pepperoni on a pizza with real dairy cheese. 

Pizzerias that offer a build-your-own program don’t have such a problem, but the pizzerias that are quickest to adopt
alternative ingredients tend to be those that serve 12-inch architectural artisan pizza. These are the pies with punny names that each have a pre-set ingredient list. There are pizzas with meats and cheeses, then pizzas with 100-percent plant-based ingredients. Nothing in the middle. It also goes the other way. Dairy-free customers who do eat meat might not want plant-based cheeses with their pepperoni pizza.
 

We run into situations like these all the time on pizza tours. Companies do team outings with us and there’s always someone who became gluten free, vegan, vegetarian, dairy-free or any combination of the above on the morning of the tour. The pizzerias we work with are incredible at managing all the different combinations. If they can do it in their tiny New York City kitchens, so can you!

SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org  Instagram: @scottspizzatours

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Have Fun with your Summer and Fall Cocktail Menus https://pizzatoday.com/topics/have-fun-with-your-summer-and-fall-cocktail-menus/ Fri, 01 Jul 2022 00:01:23 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=143595 Crafted Cocktail Menus: That’s the Spirit If you offer a full bar, that’s because you’ve realized the benefit of a complete cocktail menu. While there is nothing wrong with beer and wine only, getting into the full-dining and happy hour spirit can raise not only spirits, but sales. Let’s go beyond the Cosmopolitan and take […]

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Crafted Cocktail Menus: That’s the Spirit

If you offer a full bar, that’s because you’ve realized the benefit of a complete cocktail menu. While there is nothing wrong with beer and wine only, getting into the full-dining and happy hour spirit can raise not only spirits, but sales.

Let’s go beyond the Cosmopolitan and take a glimpse at some cocktails that are either currently trending or never out of style (either way they should do well for you this summer into the fall). Note, also: quality matters. Consumers are gravitating for premium spirits. Keep the bottom shelf liquor where it belongs — in the dark. Go high end and price to match.

Old Fashioned — Sometimes, what’s old is new again. Bourbon is red hot. That trend began well before the pandemic, but the Great Quarantine seemed to only heighten our nation’s love for the only native American spirit. Much like sourdough bread baking at home, people really got into bourbon with all the down time. It’s an enthusiasts’ spirit if ever there were one. And the Old Fashioned is the grandaddy of all bourbon drinks. If you’re operating a full bar, not having a great Old Fashioned is just plain silly. And even though it’s been around for more than 200 years, the Old Fashioned is as trendy as ever.

Granddaddy (Old Fashioned)

Get the Granddaddy Old Fashion recipe.

Cucumber Mint — In the dog days of summer, one of the most refreshing drinks you can muster features cucumber and mint. It’s just so fresh and clean. Vodka is the best choice for this one. I prefer the addition of lime as well. Call it “going green.” You can make your own cucumber-mint simple syrup in a matter of minutes if you don’t want to buy it. Place a pan over medium heat and combine 8 ounces of water with ½ cup of sugar and 1 cup of chopped mint leaves. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool another 5 minutes. It’s going to smell amazing! Strain and then store in the fridge (for up to about 3 weeks, but you should move through this drink quickly if you market it in the summer).

Going Green (Cucumber Mint Cocktail)

Get the Going Green Cucumber Mint Cocktail recipe.

Peach Bellini — We all have a friend named or nicknamed Rocky. Mine makes the best Peach Bellini, so I’m hijacking his recipe here. The Bellini hails from Venice, the Italian city I visited on my 20th wedding anniversary and that I still dream about. There is literally no place in the world like Venice. Since peach is a classic summer flavor here in the states (I mean, even Chick-Fil-A does a summer peach milkshake), let’s give this old favorite its due.

Rocky’s Bellini

Get the Rocky’s Bellini recipe.

JEREMY WHITE is Editor-in-Chief at Pizza Today.

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A Bite of St. Louis — St. Louis-style Pizza https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/a-bite-of-st-louis-st-louis-style-pizza/ Fri, 01 Jul 2022 00:01:11 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=143594 St. Louis Style Pizza, a look at a unique square cut pie What the heck is St. Louis style pizza? Did you know that St. Louis has its own style of pizza? Yes, St. Louis does indeed have its own style. Of course, it’s not nearly as widely known as say Detroit-style pizza, which was […]

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St. Louis Style Pizza, a look at a unique square cut pie

What the heck is St. Louis style pizza? Did you know that St. Louis has its own style of pizza? Yes, St. Louis does indeed have its own style. Of course, it’s not nearly as widely known as say Detroit-style pizza, which was once an obscure unknown regional style before some pizza fanatics uncovered it and brought it to the mainstream. Will St. Louis-style pizza follow the same fate one day? We will see. My guess is that it probably won’t. St. Louis is known as a big small town and small towns like to keep their secrets. 

I am not sure if the creation of the St. Louis style was deliberate, created by necessity or created by someone who didn’t know what they were doing — like the person who stumbles upon gold. The origins of St. Louis-style pizza are obscure, but many regions developed their unique style of pizza based on cultural characteristics of the particular area. We must assume that the style developed in tandem with other Midwest regional square-cut thin pies. Like all “party cut” pizzas, it was created to be a snack. The tavern or party style cut gained popularity after WWII as a sharing food offered by local taverns and bars made extra salty so patrons would drink more. 

What exactly is St. Louis-style pizza? St. Louis-style pizza evolved sometime in the late 1940s and is defined by four principles:

  1. Cracker thin crust risen by baking powder/baking soda or no rising agent at all. Some places do use yeast but since the style uses a sheeter or dough press to the maximum effect, yeast is optional. The dough is heavily pressed. There is typically some oil in the dough. 
  2. The pizza is cut in a square grid even though the pizza is round. 
  3. A cooked red sauce on the sweeter side with lots of dried oregano is used. 
  4. Provel Cheese, a processed combination of provolone, Swiss and white cheddar that is very salty, has liquid smoke added and has a low melting point. 

Provel cheese originated around 1947. It’s a quick gooey melt (think Kraft American singles and those grilled cheeses you ate as a kid). It was supposedly created by a grocery store in the Italian Hill neighborhood of St. Louis. Legend has it that it was created to avoid the stringiness of mozzarella. It was also the year another St. Louis culinary treat was supposedly developed, toasted ravioli (deep fried ravioli). 

Provel is certainly controversial in the pizza world. Ever since an adventurous or misguided chef put this processed cheese combination on pizza in place of traditional mozzarella, a raging debate of its worthiness has ensued. Provel has been the subject of lore as well as a victim of derision. The jury is still out. Kraft currently owns the trademark to the name Provel, but every St. Louis-style pizza spot has their own blend they usually make in house. It is also considered St. Louis style if it has the above characteristics but uses mozzarella. I would say with people I know here it’s 50/50 on Provel’s popularity as the cheese of choice on their St. Louis-style pizza. Most out of towners who move here hate it, usually (with good reason, as most are used to mozzarella). 

Although round and cut into squares, St. Louis-style pizza should not be confused with Chicago thin or New England tavern style (bar pies). The difference being Chicago thin uses yeast. It is also partially baked in a pan with butter before hitting the hearth. Although also thin, it is just a bit thicker. New England bar pies spread the cheese all the way to the end of the crust and over it. They are also cooked in an oily pan first. Neither of these styles use a “Provel” like cheese. However, cheeses other than mozzarella are sometimes added. 

Legend has it that Ed Imo (founder of the famous Imo’s Pizza chain that was established in 1964) cut the pizza in squares because he was a linoleum tile cutter, so cutting squares at the pizzeria was a natural fit. Imo’s is by far the largest chain doing St. Louis-style pizza with over 100 locations. Imo’s is the most well-known purveyor of the St. Louis-style pizza and has become synonymous with the style itself. Imo’s is credited with the use of Provel instead of mozzarella, but this assertion is questionable. I have to say before this article I thought Provel was disgusting. I spit it out the first time I unknowably had it. I soon realized the pizza I ordered for my daughter’s then two-year-old birthday in 2010 had “Provel” on it, NOT mozzarella. It happens to be the default cheese at Imo’s. I didn’t make that mistake again. For this article, however, I indulged in a St. Louis-style pizza binge ordering Provel on my pizza. Being opened minded I do have to say I have more appreciation and respect for the style now. 

The quality of St. Louis-style pizza varies considerably depending on where you go. In my opinion three old school places are the standard: Farottos (1956), Monte Bello (1950) and Frank and Helens (1956) do it best. These restaurants are still in their original locations stuck in time. And as far as I can tell no design elements have been updated since the 1950s. 

If you are not in St. Louis, you can still enjoy making a St. Louis-style pizza. Use an all-purpose flour and roll your dough with a rolling pin extra thin, as thin as you can. No need for long fermentation or fancy dough techniques. Cook your tomato sauce with oregano and add a touch of sugar. Make your own Provel with a combo of Provolone, Swiss and White Cheddar. And voila! It is a wonderfully different pizza to make and enjoy with friends and family. Will it be a menu hit for you? Time will tell.

Scott Sandler  is a consultant, speaker at Pizza Expo and Pizza and Pasta Northeast and Pizza Today contributor.

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A Look at the Many Pizza Styles at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/a-look-at-the-many-pizza-styles-at-tonys-pizza-napoletana/ Sat, 18 Jun 2022 17:38:05 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=143846 Famed pizzeria, a first of its kind to offer multiple pizza styles Tony’s Pizza Napoletana was one of the first pizzerias to offer so many sought after regional pizza styles in one restaurant. Here’s a peek at the pizza styles at Tony’s:   Classic American All Classic American pizzas have hand crushed, slightly sweet tomato […]

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Famed pizzeria, a first of its kind to offer multiple pizza styles

Tony’s Pizza Napoletana was one of the first pizzerias to offer so many sought after regional pizza styles in one restaurant. Here’s a peek at the pizza styles at Tony’s:

 

Classic American

All Classic American pizzas have hand crushed, slightly sweet tomato sauce and a hand tossed rustic medium crust. It baked at 535 F.


Classic Italian

All Classic Italian pizzas have vine-ripened tomato sauce and a hand tossed rustic medium crust. Pies are cooked at 535 F and 575 F.


Pizza Napoletana

Dough finished by hand then proofed in Napoletana wood boxes. Pizza are 12 inches and baked in a 900 F wood-fired oven.


California

Dough uses a multigrain flour. The style has a signature artisan crust and creative toppings. Pizza are 12 inches and baked in a 900 F wood-fired oven.


roman pizza, 2022 Pizzeria of the Year, Tony’s Pizzeria Napoletana

Pizza Romano

The long thin pizzas stretch almost three feet. The pies are baked at 570 F.


New York

The crust is thin and crispy with some chew. Slices are to be folded down the middle for consumption. The pizzas are 20 inches and baked at 525 F. All pizzas are finished with Pecorino and oregano.


Sicilian pizza, 2022 Pizzeria of the Year, Tony’s Pizzeria Napoletana

Sicilian

All Sicilian style pan pizzas are topped with vine ripened tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. Bake at 535F.


Grandma

A thinner version of a Sicilian pie. Grandma pies are heavily oiled and baked in a square pan at 535 F.


detroit pizza, Tony's Pizza Napoletana

Detroit

Square pizza cooked in steel pans from detroit and topped with Wisconsin brick mozzarella cheese, white cheddar, tomato sauce and garlic butter toasted corners. Topped with pecorino, oregano, garlic, extra virgin olive oil. Cooked at 535 F.


Coal-fired

The thin-crust pizzas are baked in 1000 F coal oven.


St. Louis

This super thin-crust pizza typically features Provel (swiss, white cheddar, provolone) extra sweet tomato sauce and it is cut into squares.

 

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Find Unique Summer Seasonal Pizzas that Customers Crave https://pizzatoday.com/topics/find-unique-summer-seasonal-pizzas-that-customers-crave/ Wed, 01 Jun 2022 11:28:13 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=143493 Summertime Pizza Sizzle know how easy it is to get stuck making the same pizzas over and over again. Maybe your customers love all of the options on your menu or maybe you’re just too tired to try to think up new ones. Whatever the reason, there is no harm in keeping a consistent menu. […]

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Summertime Pizza Sizzle

know how easy it is to get stuck making the same pizzas over and over again. Maybe your customers love all of the options on your menu or maybe you’re just too tired to try to think up new ones. Whatever the reason, there is no harm in keeping a consistent menu. That being said, it is always fun to add new items or change up old ones. With a plethora of fresh produce to pick from, summer is the perfect time to try out new ideas. There are many different ways to incorporate summer pizzas, from doing daily or weekly specials or simply picking a few to run all summer long. You can choose to go straight farm to pie or order a few seasonal items from your main distributor. 

Everyone has ingredients that they gravitate towards, and if you look at my current menu you will know right away that chilies are one of my favorites. In this regard, I am very lucky to live in Colorado where hot peppers grow in abundance during the summer. One of my favorite varietals are Hatch Green Chiles. While they are a signature crop of our neighboring state, New Mexico, they also grow well in my region. They range in levels of heat from mild to super hot. There are many different methods to cook them, but I would argue the ideal way is when they are flame roasted.  For those unfamiliar with a flame roaster, it’s a big rotisserie with a metal grate that rotates the chilies over an open flame. The chilies roast slowly, charring the skins, cooking the flesh of the chilies and eliciting one of the best smells of summer. 

Once they’ve been roasted you simply peel the skin off and give them a rough chop. This method of cooking the chilies gives them an upfront charred sweetness with just the right amount of tingling heat on your tongue. Unlike jalapeños, which I think of as more of an accompanying ingredient, Hatch green chiles are the star of the pizza. I like them on a white pie, paired with either a bold cheese or meat and finished with fresh herbs. A few ideas for Hatch Green Chile pies:

  • Hatch green chiles, pancetta, cotija, mozzarella, cilantro
  • Hatch green chiles, Manchego, mozzarella, basil
  • Hatch green chiles, sausage, fresh mozzarella, fresh oregano
  • Hatch green chiles, rainbow chard, fontina, cracked egg, thyme
  • Hatch green chiles, summer corn, mozzarella, goat cheese, roasted sweet onion and garlic, finished with a heavy hand of basil and shaved pecorino. 

I know it’s an obvious choice, but tomatoes are also one of my top summer ingredients to work with. While you can get tomatoes year round, I don’t think that you should. They have a pretty short growing season of about 90 days, in late summer.  As with any high-quality item, I always veer towards simple being best. If you have a fantastic product there is no need to weigh it down with extra ingredients. Instead let its natural flavors shine through. There are endless combinations for using tomatoes on pizza, but a few of my favorites are: 

  • Sliced heirloom tomatoes, burrata, oregano, drizzle of extra virgin olive oil
  • Diced Early Girl Tomatoes, fresh buffalo mozzarella, basil, prosciutto or speck
  • Sliced mozzarella, tomatoes, anchovies, roasted garlic, breadcrumbs, finished with Sicilian oregano. 

You don’t have to stop with tomatoes on pizza either. They are great as a side dish or as a salad. The best tomato salad, and possibly one of the best salads I’ve had period, was at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana. Tony makes an Early Girl tomato salad when they are at their peak. It’s a very simple dish with not many other ingredients besides the tomatoes, sea salt and good extra virgin olive oil. But if you’ve ever had an Early Girl tomato in its prime, you know that the concentrated, juicy sweetness is hard to rival. That and the Tony magic. Of course, you can go the traditional route with a Caprese salad or mix the tomatoes with other summer produce like fresh corn and basil, or add it to greens like arugula or spinach.

Greens are a category in themselves for pizza toppings. I know a lot of people tend to shy away from them or think that they need to cook them down before putting them on their pizzas, but I would whole heartily disagree. I pile them on raw, top them with cheese, drizzle on a little garlic oil and then bake off the pizza. They cook down beautifully and taste even better. Summer greens can act as a base or as the main ingredient. They are also fantastic used on other parts of your menu. The obvious being salads, but you can also make them into side dishes. A few ideas to get you started are: braised chard with garlic and pancetta, crispy corn and dandelion greens fritters, and fried kale chips. 

If you’re feeling adventurous you can also make salad pizzas. Just like when making the heartier greens into actual salads, the trick to making them less tough is that you have to be sure to massage the dressing in. Yes, massage your greens, it makes all the difference in the world on taste and texture. You can go from having a bitter, tough kale salad to one of the best items on your menu. Feel free to sub out your normal romaine to make a baby kale Caesar or combine summer berries, goat cheese, chives and spinach for a fresh summer salad. Then bake off a pizza crust topped with just mozzarella or a few bolder cheeses like gorgonzola, Asiago or Gruyere. Top it with your beautiful summer salad, serve with a crisp glass of Prosecco and you have the perfect summer meal. 

With an abundance of fresh produce to choose from it’s hard to just pick a few favorite summer pizza ingredients. Stick with some safe bets, like tomatoes or corn, to start and then add in a few wild cards. 

Hatch Green Chile Pie

This pizza is heavy on the chilies with salty pancetta to cut through the heat, corn to sweeten the pie and Cotija cheese to smooth everything out. 

Get the Hatch Green Chile Pie recipe.

Audrey Kelly owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado. 

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Low Labor Appetizers with High Wow Factor https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/low-labor-appetizers-with-high-wow-factor/ Wed, 01 Jun 2022 11:10:22 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=143490 Explore appetizers that won’t clog your makeline You don’t have to create extravagant appetizers to wow your customers. There are so many options when it comes to appetizers that are delicious, craveable and do not require a lot of prep to pull off beautifully. First, let’s talk garlic knots. This might be a sensitive area […]

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Explore appetizers that won’t clog your makeline

You don’t have to create extravagant appetizers to wow your customers. There are so many options when it comes to appetizers that are delicious, craveable and do not require a lot of prep to pull off beautifully.

First, let’s talk garlic knots. This might be a sensitive area but hear me out. An easy switch is to forgo the garlic knots in favor of the garlic dough bites. Same great taste, good profit margin and still uses that leftover pizza dough but requires less prep time.  

If that’s a hard pass, we have other great options that may fit your concept and please your customers. Let’s dive into some app ideas.

Marinated Olives

We’ve notice marinated olives popping up on more pizzeria menus around the country, and with good reason. The dish is so simple to make, presents beautifully and they are addicting. This app doesn’t require any other accompaniments and can be served hot or cold, prep ahead or made-to-order. Use pitted olives for convenience. Avoid olives already marinated or soaked in olive oil. You are looking for olives in brine.

Creativity is abound with this app by swapping out ingredients. Here are a few ways to go:

  • Kalamata olives, lemon, thyme, olive oil, garlic
  • Castelvetrano olives, orange, rosemary, olive oil and garlic
  • Kalamata and black olives, dices sweet picante pepper, and garlic
  • Kalamata olives, orange, fennel seed, garlic, thyme and olive oil
  • Castelvetrano olives, lemon, garlic, Cayenne pepper, olive oil, oregano

Here’s a cold marinated olives recipe to experiment with:

Citrus-marinated Olives

Get the Citrus-marinated Olives recipe.

Reinvent the Antipasto

Usually when you see antipasto, the word platter is behind it. Or you think of perfectly placed charcuterie boards. There is no rule that says antipasto and charcuterie offerings must be abundant and be artfully presented on a large board or tray. Go with your strengths. Get creative with a mix of your favorite ingredients. With cured meats and cheese, a little goes a long way. Premium items like this demand a premium price. Mix in low-cost items like pickled or grilled vegetables and herb-infused olive oil.

You can divide your typical appetizer plate into quarters, placing giardiniera in one quarter. Devote another fourth to popular meats (Sopressata, Prosciutto or Genoa Salami). Of course, a quarter goes to fresh mozzarella. For speed, divide plate into fourths, make a vertical line with each offering. 

Seasoned & Loaded Fries

If you’re a Neapolitan or upscale pizzeria, serving French fries just doesn’t fit. But if you’re a pizzeria with good chicken wing sales, fries should be right up your alley. 

Make sure you go with good quality regular or sweet potato fries, whether that’s standard, steak, curly, crinkle cut, shoestring or tater tots. I’m not saying to cut your own fries unless you are a completely scratch kitchen. There are a ton of great options on the market to choose from. We are seeing a lot of waffle fries, tater tots and standard sweet potato fries lately. 

The baseline easiest and most amazing, seasoned fries are as simple as tossing fries with minced or roasted garlic, Parmesan, extra-virgin olive oil, chopped fresh Italian parsley and sea salt. From here, go wild with what goes into the bowl with the fries. Truffle or hot chili oil, chimichurri, Cajun spice, Old Bay, fajita or Greek seasoning. 

Another option is to go big with fries by putting loaded fries on the menu. The possibilities are endless here. Use ingredients you already have. What crosses over to make great loaded fries? Look for inspiration on your specialty pizza and sandwich menus. Some incredibly delicious loaded fries include:

  • Taco with pulled pork or chicken, cheddar, mozzarella, pico de gallo or salsa, green onion and jalapeno
  • White with bechamel or Mornay sauce, sunnyside up egg, bacon and chives
  • Philly with all of the Philly Cheesesteak sandwich fillings
  • BBQ with pulled pork or brisket, mozzarella, slaw and barbecue sauce
  • Poutine with shredded beef, beef gravy and cheese curds 
  • Buffalo Chicken with cheddar, blue cheese and Ranch dressing

Let’s get you started with a popular loaded fries recipe.

Makeline Bacon Ranch Loaded Fries

Get the Makeline Bacon Ranch Loaded Fries recipe.

DENISE GREER is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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Attract Return Visits with Summer Seasonal Salads https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/attract-return-visits-with-summer-seasonal-salads/ Wed, 01 Jun 2022 10:51:37 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=143487 It’s the heat of summer. Does your menu offer items to beat the heat? A seasonal salad can hit that mark while also taking advantage of the abundance of summer veggies.  Before we talk salads, let’s dive into sizing options. What fits your menu? Individual sized, small plate appetizer or family-style sharable. You have options. […]

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It’s the heat of summer. Does your menu offer items to beat the heat? A seasonal salad can hit that mark while also taking advantage of the abundance of summer veggies. 

Before we talk salads, let’s dive into sizing options. What fits your menu? Individual sized, small plate appetizer or family-style sharable. You have options. Evaluate how other items sell and what makes sense for your customers and your bottom line.

There are some salads that naturally pair well with pizza: panzanella, caprese and Caesar. Let’s get into these salads.

Panzanella

This Italian chopped salad is best served as an appetizer. It features Italian bread, tomatoes, capers, onion, celery, basil and chickpeas. Don’t be afraid to change up the veggies in this salad based on what is available in your area. Blend parsley, garlic, oregano, olive oil and balsamic vinegar to create the dressing. This is another area where you can apply some creativity by choosing another vinegar or adding different herbs and spices like crushed red pepper or thyme. We’ve even seen recipes incorporate Dijon mustard.  

Caprese 

It’s classic and light. You can’t go wrong with sliced summer tomatoes (especially those beautiful and colorful heirloom varieties), sliced fresh mozzarella, fresh basil, extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and pepper. We often see this salad topped with a drizzle of balsamic reduction. 

But, let’s get your wheels turning about all the tasty twists that can give you a unique option and wow your guests with the season’s best. Here are some other simple caprese remixes:

  • Roasted red pepper, burrata, basil, EVOO
  • Strawberries, cherry tomatoes, Perlini mozzarella, mint, honey drizzle
  • Cucumber, avocado, sliced tomato and balsamic drizzle
  • Green apple, fresh mozzarella, blueberries, basil and balsamic
  • Peaches, fresh mozzarella, fresh mint, olive oil and hot honey

Let’s explore a recipe for one of these delicious caprese remixes. You can’t go wrong with peaches in the summertime. Choose your favorite peach variety — the juicier, the better, and play with this Peach Caprese recipe.

Caesar

Hail to the classic Caesar, a great option as an individual salad, family-style portion or entrée with an add-on protein. Switch up the romaine for a rotini pasta to make a cool pasta salad. Think BLT Caesar salad with a blended Caesar mayo dressing that can also we used as a sandwich spread or reduce as aioli drizzle on pizza.  

Corn, one of summer’s biggest bounty

At its peak, producers are practically giving away corn, whether it’s Silver Queen, Jubilee or Golden Bantam. Try a versatile sweet corn pico de gallo with fresh roasted corn, finely chopped jalapeno, chopped tomato, red onion, cilantro, lime juice and sea salt. Serve over chopped leaf lettuce, red cabbage and top with shredded white cheddar, crushed tortilla chips and a drizzle of Ranch dressing. The sweet corn pico can also be used as a finishing topping on a Southwestern or Mexican pizza. 

Go Italian inspired with a summer corn salad featuring roasted white corn, grape tomatoes, roasted red onion, roasted garlic, roasted red pepper, lemon juice, extra-virgin olive oil, Pecorino, basil, crushed pepper, cracked black pepper and sea salt.  

Thai Smile

Infusing flavors from around the world can be a big hit with customers. One of the most popular international salads is a Thai salad. And since Thai chicken pizzas are a hot specialty pizza, the ingredients add versatility. Thai salads vary but usually include Napa cabbage, cucumbers, carrots, sweet peppers, edamame and a peanut dressing.  

This salad is an excellent opportunity to offer a plant-based option with meat and cheese add-ons for those who want them. Here’s a recipe to get you started and you can experiment from there:

Plant-based Thai Salad with Spicy Peanut Dressing

Get the Plant-based Thai Salad with Spicy Peanut Dressing recipe.

We have a collection of salads designed for pizzeria menus online. Browse the entire collection for more summer salad ideas.

DENISE GREER is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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Man on the Street: The Truth About Neapolitan Pizza https://pizzatoday.com/topics/man-on-the-street-the-truth-about-neapolitan-pizza/ Wed, 01 Jun 2022 00:01:34 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=143480 Do you remember when Neapolitan pizza hit the mainstream? It was about 15 years ago — and the food world was in a tizzy. The romance of blazing hot ovens married perfectly with the upscale presentation of the elegant, blistery pizzas they produced. Savvy restaurateurs snatched imported ovens, tomatoes, flour and even the pizza makers […]

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Do you remember when Neapolitan pizza hit the mainstream? It was about 15 years ago — and the food world was in a tizzy. The romance of blazing hot ovens married perfectly with the upscale presentation of the elegant, blistery pizzas they produced. Savvy restaurateurs snatched imported ovens, tomatoes, flour and even the pizza makers themselves. Why was it all necessary? Because of the rules, of course!

I’m referring to the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana rules, which aim to define true Neapolitan pizza as that which is made according to traditional standards. The European Union adopted those standards right around the time Neapolitan pizza took off in the U.S., so now Neapolitan pizza is considered a TSG (Traditional Specialty Guaranteed) product. That means “real” Neapolitan pizza is now defined by specific measurements, ingredients and preparation techniques. The rules were created to preserve a tradition. But what would you say if I told you they actually destroyed it? 

My pizza tour guests love revealing their pizza “hot takes.” A popular one lately has been admitting to disliking Neapolitan pizza. People complain about soggy, watery pizzas. I used to defend this description as indicative of the style, but the fact is that most Neapolitan pizzas in the U.S. just aren’t made very well. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard a pizza maker claim that a clearly burnt or raw pizza is “how it’s supposed to be” when it’s really just a poorly made pizza. 

By defining such a strict set of rules, the AVPN created a goal that’s nearly impossible to achieve. Maybe that was the original idea, but it seems to have backfired because now so many people respond negatively to poorly made Neapolitan pizzas that they’ve turned against the style entirely. That’s why so many Neapolitan pizzerias in America have ditched the strict guidelines in favor of characteristics their customers actually want. 

From a protectionist perspective, this might seem like the death of Neapolitan pizza. But I see it as its salvation. Rather than limiting the style to an extremely specific recipe, doesn’t it make more sense to honor pizza’s ability to change? Well-known pizzerias like Paulie Gee’s, Roberta’s, Ops, and Razza aren’t making pizza the AVPN would recognize as Neapolitan, but in a sense they’re more true to the original Neapolitan concept simply because they ditch the rules in favor of what their customers want.

Think about any pizza style and you’ll quickly notice that none strictly adhere to a set of rules. One of the main tenants of New Haven pizza is that it’s baked in a coal-fired oven, yet Frank Pepe’s and Sally’s Apizza are the only two New Haven pizzerias currently doing so. How about Detroit style? It has sauce on top of its cheese, right? But Loui’s doesn’t and that’s one of the oldest spots. We define styles to make it easier for us to establish expectations. In the barbecue world, we think of Texas and South Carolina as having different styles NOT to establish a right and wrong, but to signal to the customer whether they’re getting beef or pork. 

When we put restrictions on a dish, we sentence it to death. The entire reason pizza has global reach today is because it has been allowed to adapt to local ingredients and culture. I love Neapolitan pizza and think its arrival in the U.S. has inspired an explosion of quality pizza, but I see its greatest value as inspiration for what’s to come and not as a museum exhibit.

SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org  Instagram: @scottspizzatours

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Trending Toppings: Avocado Bravado https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/trending-toppings-avocado-bravado/ Mon, 25 Apr 2022 19:26:46 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=143044 To say avocado is trending is an understatement Avocado, also called the Alligator Pear by the English who first encountered it, is believed to be from the Puebla region of South-central Mexico, where this delicious fruit was foraged by humans and eaten by large, since-extinct animals. The Aztecs believed that anyone who consumed avocado would […]

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To say avocado is trending is an understatement

Avocado, also called the Alligator Pear by the English who first encountered it, is believed to be from the Puebla region of South-central Mexico, where this delicious fruit was foraged by humans and eaten by large, since-extinct animals. The Aztecs believed that anyone who consumed avocado would gain strength and the ancient Maya even named the 14th month of their calendar after it. The name avocado even came from the Nahuatl word ahuacatl which refers to the testicle… Yum. The avocado was introduced in mainstream America in 1833. In the 1980’s the fruit took a hit when low-fat diets became the craze. It wasn’t until people learned that there were good fats like the avocado to consume. Lately, we’ve all seen an uptick in use in pizzerias as of late, but this fruit is still tricky because of oxidation and ripeness challenges.

Avocado Aficionado

Avocados and the 100s of cultivars come from the smaller Mexican variety, which is cold resistant. The Guatemalan variety grows larger but has warmer climate constraints. Now, 95 percent of the avocados grown in California are of the Hass variety. Many avocado aficionados avoid the big green avocados from Florida for fear of inferior, watery texture but these are still great in salads.

Hass avocados are obtained year-around, the pebbly skin turn darker as they ripen and is somewhat soft when squeezed gently. The flavor is rich and nutty.

Fuerte avocados are an easy-peeling variety with a small bumpy, green skin that doesn’t darken when ripe. This has a mild flavor and is better suited for salads.

Sharwill avocados are medium, small-stoned variety with shiny green skins. Press the area just above the widest part for ripeness. It has a nutty flavor and oil-rich flesh perfect for spreading.

“Dats aloto Avocado”

To say avocados are trending now is an understatement. The popularity of avocado toast, sushi rolls, avocado sauces and guacamole is peaking. I started making wildly popular avocado toast by using my par-cooked Sicilian-style crust, which is cut and toasted, then topped with avocado. To broaden the use of this menu item in my Slicehouse, my customers have a choice of regular avocado and “Everything” spice or topped further with a “Caprese” style with mozzarella, basil and tomato, smoked salmon with all the trimmings or Prosciutto di Parma and arugula. You may want to vary the possibilities even further. First, let’s look at the food cost of incorporating avocado into your menu mix.

Food Costing: Because avocado is very vulnerable to browning or going bad, it can be a volatile ingredient to buy fresh by the case unless your prep includes incorporating antioxidants like citrus juices. Avocados that are peeled and halved in frozen, vacuum-packed containers run .86 cents each for a case of 48. Larger cases of avocados run for 12 count @ $2.48 each or larger cases of Hass avocados for $1.60 each. Organic avocados may run up to $2.60 each for larger cases. 

Labor: Because we all live in a restaurant reality, the labor involved in cutting, peeling, following recipes may be concerning. A prep cook could cut themselves or mix it too hard turning the fruit into mush or the avocados may come in too soft or too hard in storage. Therefore, I prefer the ready-serve trays which weigh two pounds and come frozen. The avocado is in chunks and can easily be manipulated to your specifications and doesn’t discolor easily. As of this writing, they come in cases of eight and cost approximately .23 cents an ounce.

Avocado Desperado

You don’t have to feel like an outlier for using avocado. Because avocado is a neutral in flavor, the combination of pairing with other flavors and textures are tremendous. Here is a long list: bacon, sour cream, black and white pepper, grapefruit, radish, arugula, chili peppers, chicken, scallions, crab, chervil, butter, beans, cream, corn, fennel, endive, frisee greens, garlic, jicama, mayonnaise, walnuts, tarragon, spinach, Dijon mustard, lime, lemon, basil, yogurt, cayenne, jalapeño, red onion, apple, mango, ginger, tomato, cashews, passion fruit, vinegar, shrimp, parsley, cumin, lettuce, turnip, celery, dill, peas, pineapple, pistachio, smoked salmon, chocolate, blue cheese, cucumber, grape, hazelnut, mint, nutmeg, soft cheeses, strawberry, cauliflower, pork and wheat berries.

Here are some great uses for avocado in your restaurant or pizzeria:

Mexican Guacamole with garlic, cilantro, lime, onion, serrano or jalapeño peppers and black pepper. Add after the oven on a Carne Asada, (grilled beef) Pizza or add a few tablespoons of mayonnaise for a Columbian Guacamole on a Pollo a la Plancha Pizza, (grilled chicken). 

Avocado Panna Cotta: These savory bombs can be refrigerated for a nice appetizer. Just add bloomed gelatin leaf, milk, cream, avocado, fennel pollen and grated Parmigiano Reggiano into a food processor and blitz. Pour into oiled molds and refrigerate. (Too crazy? Try it and see.)

Avocado Chutney: These specialties from India through Sri Lanka include adding coconut, lime, garlic and tomato with shallots and cilantro for spectacular effects. Indian chefs have been very fond of adding curry to avocado with coconut cream.

Mojo de Ajo Pizza with Shrimp and Bacon

This pizza features a spicy Mojo de Ajo sauce that is vivid orange in color. With bacon squares, shrimp, avocado and lemon, the pizza pops with a high presentation. Get the Mojo de Ajo Pizza with Shrimp and Bacon recipe now.  

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Ways to Use Garlic: Clove is in the Air https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/ways-to-use-garlic-clove-is-in-the-air/ Mon, 25 Apr 2022 14:34:07 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=143058 No matter what type you prefer, there are so many fun ways to use garlic at your restaurant One of my favorite compliments is when a customer comes in with a huge smile on their face and exclaims, “I can smell your pizza all the way down the block!” It’s that fantastic aroma of yeasty […]

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No matter what type you prefer, there are so many fun ways to use garlic at your restaurant

One of my favorite compliments is when a customer comes in with a huge smile on their face and exclaims, “I can smell your pizza all the way down the block!” It’s that fantastic aroma of yeasty baked dough combined with sweet, tangy tomato sauce, creamy cheeses and, if you’re anything like me: lots and lots of garlic. Walking into my shop, one of the first things you will notice on our pizza line is a big container of garlic in extra virgin olive oil. We brush our homemade rolls with it as they pop fresh out of the oven, add it to our meatball sandwiches, and of course, use it as a pizza topping. So why is this plant so synonymous with Italian cuisine?

Garlic is an herb that is related to onions, leeks and chives.

While it is native to Central China and Northeastern Iran, it is now grown all over the world. We are most familiar with a handful of types of garlic but there are actually hundreds of different varieties.

Hardneck (allium ophioscorodon) and softneck (allium sativum) garlic are the two most popular types. There are two different varieties of the softneck garlic: Artichoke and Silverskin. You can find both of these at the grocery store. Artichoke garlic resembles the artichoke vegetable with up to 20 overlapping layers of cloves and a thick, white outer layer. This variety is ideal if you don’t go through it quickly or want to store it, as it lasts up to eight months. Sliverskins, on the other hand, are adaptable to many different climates and have a very high yield.

Rocambole is the most common type of hardneck garlic. It has large, easy to peel cloves with a much more intense flavor than softnecks. The downside is that the shelf life is only four to five months. Garlic scapes, the fragrant, flavor bombs that are so sought after during the late spring to early summer months, come from this type of garlic.

No matter what type you prefer, there are so many fun ways to use garlic at your restaurant.

It acts great as a base for white pizzas instead of making a cream sauce. You can blend it with fresh herbs or greens, Parmesan and nuts for pesto or make a classic marinara pie with paper-thin slices of garlic, olive oil and oregano.

Some other garlicky pizza combinations to try:

  • Summer squash and zucchini ribbons, roasted garlic, ricotta and basil.
  • Sautéed wild mushroom and garlic, finished with stracciatella and oregano.
  • House-made garlic sausage, roasted garlic, mustard greens, mozzarella, marinara, Parmesan.
  • Roasted garlic, anchovies, marinara, roasted eggplant, extra virgin olive oil.
  • Garlic scapes, garlic oil, rainbow chard, bacon, mozzarella, over easy eggs and fresh herbs. (See recipe at right.)
  • Pepperoni, fresh garlic, roasted jalapeños, marinara, mozzarella and Parmesan.
  • Thinly sliced potatoes, roasted garlic, Parmesan, thyme and mozzarella.

Garlic is also fantastic on other items besides pizza. It can, and should, show up in dressings, sauces, marinades and seasonings. Think a roasted garlic marinade for chicken wings or a garlicky Caesar dressing. Then, of course, there is classic garlic bread or garlic knots.

A lot of people’s aversion to garlic comes from how it’s handled while raw.

As such, pizza makers and chefs alike have strong opinions on what the best way is to chop up the raw cloves. Many believe (I would say correctly) that if you simply mince garlic in a food processor it leaves a slightly bitter flavor. To prevent this you should thinly slice it, either with a sharp knife or on a micro plane. Depending on your volume and how much garlic you use this isn’t always realistic. One way to counter the bitterness is to mince it and then bath it in extra virgin olive oil. The garlic flavors the oil and the oil in return slows the garlic from oxidizing and fermenting. This also increases the shelf life of the raw garlic.

Another way to mellow the flavor of garlic and add a whole other dimension to it is to roast it. There are a few different ways to do this, depending on how you’re using the finished product as well as how much you’re going through. The first is to roast the whole head of garlic. You can cut off the top of the plant, splash on a little olive oil and either roast the head on a sheet tray or wrap it in tin foil. This is a great option if you have the time and want to use a specific varietal of garlic or are trying to use local garlic. Another way is to buy bulk peeled, raw garlic cloves. You can then cover them in olive oil and cook over a low heat until the cloves become tender.

Garlic doesn’t always need to be the star of the show to add depth to a dish. It is fantastic as a flavoring agent. A lot of the roasted veggies I cook, I add a few smashed garlic cloves to the pan to enhance the flavor. The cloves also add a ton of flavor to pickled vegetables.

Another form is garlic powder. While it has a completely different flavor profile than fresh garlic, it is something that can be utilized in dressings, sauces, marinades and seasoning. Also, depending on what part of the country you are in, it can be an in-demand condiment for slices and pies.

Garlic scapes, as I mentioned above, are the curly green, thin stems that sprout out of the ground in late spring to early summer, which means right about now! They have a very short window that they are available and are insanely tender and delicious with a much milder flavor than the cloves. They are sometimes confused with green garlic but the two are different. Unlike the scape, which grows out of the top of the garlic plant, green garlic is immature garlic. It looks like an overgrown scallion, and usually comes from the softneck variety (as opposed to garlic scapes, which are the hardback).

Whether you are a garlic lover or minimalist user, there are plenty of ways and forms to get your fix.

AUDREY KELLY owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado.

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The Menu Price is Right https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/the-menu-price-is-right/ Fri, 01 Apr 2022 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/the-menu-price-is-right/ Menu Evaluation & Pricing Sales reporting is fundamental to business. Reporting is essential to making informed decisions about your restaurant. Not having a Point of Sale producing real-time reports is akin to letting a ship float without a captain. We pizzaioli don’t always get it right when it comes to our menu offerings and our […]

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Menu Evaluation & Pricing

Sales reporting is fundamental to business. Reporting is essential to making informed decisions about your restaurant. Not having a Point of Sale producing real-time reports is akin to letting a ship float without a captain.

We pizzaioli don’t always get it right when it comes to our menu offerings and our menu prices.

Here’s the scenario: Customer says, “You should offer such and such topping, everyone will order it.” Or: “You are missing out on customers by not offering a vegan pizza.” How about, “You really need to have this on your menu because your competitor does.” At first you resist, but that same customer persists, even to your crew when you are not there. Then your crew tells you they are getting tons of requests for the item. Finally, you cave and add it to your menu, pricing it much the same way you’ve priced everything on your menu; by comparing it to your competitor’s price. It turns out that it was not lots of customers asking for the menu items a few times, but instead was a few customers asking for the menu item lots of times. The item doesn’t sell, has a terrible food cost and has distracted you from focusing on your core product. You might even have made the mistake of throwing more time and money away by marketing the item, thinking that was the problem.

There is a better way.

For your menu to be ‘right’, you must evaluate two components. First, do you offer the right items for your customers? Second, is each item on your menu priced ‘right’?

The RIGHT menu items.

Lee Iacocca, during his turn-around of Chrysler Corporation, had a method that served him well. Every year, he required every division to terminate the bottom 10-percent performers. Let us apply that method to our menu. Once per year, remove at least one bottom performing menu item. How do we measure this? Your POS system will give you an annual report showing each menu item and the number of units sold. Select the item(s) that sells the least number of units and axe it.

Let us apply another time-honored method to our menu: K.I.S.S. KISS is an acronym for Keep It Simple Stupid. The simpler your menu, the better chance you have of your crew making what you do offer exceptional. KISS applied means this: do not add an item to your menu unless you remove one at the same time. In other words, to add a menu item, you must sacrifice something you already offer.

By applying these two methods, your menu will reduce in size slightly (by at least one item) every year, bringing more focus to your core menu items.

Menu priced RIGHT.

The man who first introduced this concept to me was Big Dave Ostrander. We met at Pizza Expo back in 1989 (yeah, I’m that old). Big Dave taught two measurements used to determine if a menu item was priced correctly. The first measurement is the Ideal Food Cost Percentage. The second is Contribution To The Bottom Line. 

Ideal Food Cost Percentage means this: Make a large pepperoni pizza exactly to your recipe, with the exact amount of dough, sauce, cheese and pepperoni. Calculate how much these ingredients are costing you exactly. Then take that cost dollar amount and divide it into the price your charge for a large pepperoni pizza. Format it as a percentage. IF there were no mistakes, no theft, no remakes, no waste and the pizza was made exactly to the recipe, you now have your ideal food cost for your large pepperoni pizza. 

Full disclosure: this will take some work. It is a perfect job for a college student in a business curriculum. If this ends up feeling like too much work, think of these words by my Pizza Mentor and former boss, Roger Duncan, founder of Rusty’s Pizza. “Sales are made in the stores. Profits are made in the office.” This is office work.

Ideal food cost calculation can be done on an excel spreadsheet, creating the formulas to produce the results. However, most POS systems will give you ideal food costs, provided you feed the POS system the information. You will need to input each purchased food item into the POS inventory program, completing the tables for ‘purchased unit w/cost’, ‘inventory unit’, and ‘usage unit’. Also, feed the POS system your recipes. Input ounces of dough, sauce, cheese, pepperoni, etc. for each pizza size and each menu item. Engage the experts at your POS company to guide you. It is well worth any support fees you may incur.

The Ideal Food Cost of a PizzaMan Dan’s large pepperoni pizza, our lowest food cost item and most popular menu item, is 18.10 percent. Not bad considering we run an overall food cost of 26 percent. Note that I did not say “Our most profitable item”, because lowest food cost is not necessarily the most profitable sale. 

Contribution To The Bottom Line is arrived at by taking the menu price for the item and subtracting the food cost for the item. A large pepperoni pizza, priced at $21.99, with a food cost of 18.10 percent, contributes ($21.99-$3.98) $18.01 to the bottom line. A large house special, priced at $28.99, with a food cost of 25.50 percent contributes ($28.99-$7.39) $21.60 to the bottom line. So, do we make more money selling a low food cost pepperoni pizza, or a high food cost house special pizza? The house special, of course.

Once the work is done, you will have each menu item ranked from best food cost to worst food cost. You will also have each menu item ranked from best contribution to worst contribution. Adjust the pricing on your menu for the items in the ‘worst’ section of each list to bring these items more in line with the more profitable items on your list. How far down the list should you adjust? I recommend the bottom 20 percent of each list. 

Time to make your menu RIGHT. Offer the right items at the right price and you will have a more profitable pizzeria, with more attention to making the items you serve exceptional. Win for you and win for your customer!

Dan Collier  is the founder of Pizza Man Dan’s in California and a speaker at International Pizza Expo.

 

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Creativity Goes into Featured Pizzas and Slices https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/creativity-goes-into-featured-pizzas-and-slices/ Fri, 01 Apr 2022 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/creativity-goes-into-featured-pizzas-and-slices/ No Country For Old Pizzas “The flow of the river is ceaseless; and its water is never the same.” – Kamo no Chomei, 1212 AD   All of us in the independent restaurant world are in constant motion. We put our heads down day after day with hundreds of tasks of owning a restaurant. Sometimes, […]

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No Country For Old Pizzas

“The flow of the river is ceaseless; and its water is never the same.”

Kamo no Chomei, 1212 AD

 

All of us in the independent restaurant world are in constant motion. We put our heads down day after day with hundreds of tasks of owning a restaurant. Sometimes, just getting through a day or week hunkered down as food and labor costs soar, is quite daunting. You’d think that the last thing on our minds would be to introduce a new pizza or slice. But to those of us surrounded by competitors, the opportunity to introduce a new pizza is what sets us aside from the bland corporate places and, is the most exciting part of this job. It’s what our loyal customers deserve and expect. Floating down this river of innovation starts with a spark — something that you know will bring new customers into your pizzeria and have loyal customers adding this pizza to their orders. It also takes a plan.

Meal Plan

“You gotta be careful if you don’t know where you are going, because you might not get there.”
-Yogi Berra

Several aspects of introducing a new pizza or slice can be broken down to some core questions.

What is the food cost? Using your existing products is better for food cost and alleviates internal confusion, (i.e., delivery/storage/refrigeration.) Manipulating the existing toppings with a sauce/powder/technique/cheese can create new and exciting food profiles. You also can negotiate a better price on a new product with your food salesperson. If you don’t try, you won’t save. 

What is the labor cost? You know your prep staff better than anyone. If they are flexible and excited to fabricate a dough, food or topping, then you must think how long it will take them to do this extra work and what it will cost you. Pre-prepared sauces, spices, frozen foods or smoked meats may save you.

What do my customers expect from me? Have you marketed your pizzeria as a cutting-edge place that has funky toppings and innovative specialties or is your place more traditionalist? This may lead you to keep your new specialty pizza and slices more in line with either marketing lane you are in. Remember, even traditions evolve. The first pizzeria opened in 1830, and it wasn’t until 1889 that Raphael Esposito created the classic mozzarella, tomato and basil pizza.  

What is the timeline for this pizza, or slice? This is important because it keeps YOU and your staff in a lane to get serious about this project. Making a written plan to introduce this is optimal, and scheduling certain specialty dates on a visual calendar is a great idea. This can be posted on social media and as box toppers.

What will be my communication and marketing: Posters around your pizzeria, including recipes at the makeline, prep area and ovens are as important as explanations of the new pie at the phones. A staff tasting is a great idea. They won’t sell it if they aren’t motivated. Most POS systems have front page marketing pictures that can intentionally lead a customer to your new creation. Social media is another must. Boosting a post on Facebook has a tremendous reach, and rewarding customers for following your page is also a great tool.

Menu Venue

To introduce a new creative pizza or slice, you will have to investigate what other independents are doing. Some of these are game changers like visiting the Pizza Expo in Las Vegas. From there the deep dive continues into the demonstrations from pros in the industry and competitions where you can hear, see and steal ideas and techniques from the best pizza makers in the world. You can also keep your eyes out for the new food trends that come out faster each year. Here are a few predictions for 2022.

Plant-based pizzas: Vegan cheese and cauliflower crust has turned into a “must have” in my pizzeria. Vegan chicken, shrimp, fish and sausage are predicted to be big this year as lifestyles are changing, as people get older. 

Swice: Yes, this is the combination of sweet and spicy sauces. This may lean toward Asia like sweetened gochujang for Korean fried chicken, or spicy Latin flavors like chilies with agave or maple. Boneless chicken and swice-coated bacon are perfect pizza toppings with ricotta, mozzarella and even brie, but beware that some sweet sauces like teriyaki and even miso tends to burn in the oven.

Mushrooms: Wild mushrooms, portobello, cremini, shiitake and porcini are huge this year. In my pizzeria, we introduced a “Super Mushroom” pizza two years ago as a temporary special. It’s become so popular that we cannot take it off the menu or my customers will hunt me down.

Nostalgic pizzas: People are searching for comfort foods from their childhood like pimento cheese, sausages, cream cheese jalapeño poppers, cheddar cheese, crispy Parmigiana or Asiago chips, BBQ sauce, smoked pork and even stadium mustard. 

Vegetables: Broccoli and cauliflower with cream, or vegan cream sauces, are big now. Spinach and artichokes paired with Parmigiano and ricotta, Kimchi and pickled cucumber with Hoisin sauces and pork belly are popular. These are paired with sharp cheeses like aged provolone or goat cheese. Fennel, either thin sliced and cured or roasted and paired with Parmigiano or Romano, sausage and cream is brilliant. Chickpea, Fava and mung beans will be popular in 2022 as well as sorghum and barley.

Fruit pizzas: Never underestimate the power of sweet, savory and salt with a textural crunch. Pears, apples, apricot, mango and plums paired with Stilton, feta, aged provolone or Gorgonzola with bacon, Prosciutto, spicy capicola, smoked pork or beef bacon are king. Other after-oven toppers like walnuts, almonds or pecans push these pizzas into the “must have” category on your menu.

Charcuterie: 2022 is predicted to be a real sliced meat year. Finishing off slices with Prosciutto di Parma, capicola, and mortadella. House cured and smoked meats like pork belly, duck breast and even smoked chicken are going to be big stars this year.

Oils: Finishing oils like chili, basil, cilantro and roasted sesame oils change a pizza from so-so to fabulous!

 

Gorgonzola Pear Pizza with Prosciutto di Parma

This is an all-time favorite in my pizzeria and exhibits what Italians call the “Agrodolce” or sweet-and-sour flavor profile. Some people cannot handle the strong flavor of gorgonzola, so I temper this with some shredded mozzarella. The Bosc pear is my favorite because it doesn’t get too soft and is baked without turning brown and mealy. The added touch of maple syrup and pecan creates a strong sweet foil for the sour cheese and a crunchy finish.

Get the Gorgonzola Pear Pizza with Prosciutto di Parma recipe.

John Gutekanst  owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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A Good Red Pizza Sauce is Always on Trend https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/a-good-red-pizza-sauce-is-always-on-trend/ Fri, 01 Apr 2022 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/a-good-red-pizza-sauce-is-always-on-trend/ A Little Saucy: Secrets to a Good Red Pizza Sauce Red sauce, marinara, pomodoro, gravy.  There are so many different ways to say it and even more to make it. A pizza maker’s sauce is one of their most important recipes and often times a very personal thing.  My mom still makes hers the way […]

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A Little Saucy: Secrets to a Good Red Pizza Sauce

Red sauce, marinara, pomodoro, gravy.  There are so many different ways to say it and even more to make it. A pizza maker’s sauce is one of their most important recipes and often times a very personal thing.  My mom still makes hers the way my Sicilian grandfather taught her.  The secret ingredient: a fried egg in it that they remove before slathering the sauce onto pizza or pasta.  

What one puts into theirs often reflects a person’s cooking style. It can be as simple as plum tomatoes, salt and a pinch of oregano or becomes really complex by adding everything from anchovies to hot honey. 

sauced pizza dough, red sauceFor me, a sauce recipe really comes down to the tomatoes you use. The final product will only be as good as the quality of the fruit you put into it. Luckily for all of us American pizza makers, there are a few different companies that sell fantastic canned tomatoes. If you buy good quality tomatoes, you don’t need to add sugar or even a lot of salt to make your sauce pop. If you do want to increase the sweetness, a great way to do that is to add a thick tomato paste. Depending on your ratio to crushed or whole plum tomatoes, this can change the consistency of your sauce slightly, but I think it’s worth it for the robust burst of natural sweetness it provides. Another way to enhance the flavor is by simply sprinkling grated Pecorino or Parmesan cheese onto your red sauce as you are making your pizza.

Of course, you can always make your own sauce out of fresh tomatoes, but the growing season really only lasts from July to September. This means unless you are canning your own tomatoes during this stretch, you should be buying them, or they will not be the best quality.  

Canned tomatoes come in various forms. Generally, they are all plum or pear style tomatoes, but you can buy them whole, in strips, crushed, with or without skins on, as a concentrated paste or even already mixed into a sauce. Depending on which variation you choose to buy will affect the overall flavor and consistency of your sauce.  

In general, red sauces fall into two categories: cooked and uncooked. Your basic pizza marinara should always be uncooked. The reason for this is that canned tomatoes are already pressure cooked and once it goes onto the pizza it will be cooked in the oven another time. You don’t want to triple cook your sauce. This rule applies to simple red sauces containing tomatoes, herbs and spices (fresh or dried). The other category of red sauces is if there are ingredients that need to be cooked down before hand, in order to come together and impart all of the flavors into the tomatoes. Vodka sauce is one that definitely needs to be cooked beforehand as are sauces containing meats like sausage or pancetta. Most sauces can be stored in an airtight container for about five days.  

It is also important to tailor your sauce to fit the style of pizza you are making. You don’t want a super heavy sauce on a delicate Neapolitan pie just as you want something more substantial on a Sicilian crust. When you add your red sauce is also important.  

On a Detroit-style pizza, for example, the sauce should be ladled on top of the pie after it comes out of the oven. True Neapolitan pizza sauce can only consist of D.O.P San Marzano tomatoes and a pinch of sea salt. Roman-style pizza dictates that you put the sauce on before the first bake, whereas Sicilian you usually put the sauce on after the par-bake. These days, with a lot of new pizza makers blending styles and creating their own genre, sauce can be a very personalized thing. We do three different styles of pizza at my shop and due to space and labor shortages we only make one basic marinara sauce that we use on all three.  

There are so many ways to liven up your basic red sauce. If you like a little bit of spice, try adding chilies or even just pepper flakes to the sauce. If you’re looking to add a slightly gamey, salty flavor you can either throw in a piece of prosciutto as the sauce is cooking down or sauté guanciale as the base. One of my favorite sauces on both pizza and pasta is an Amatriciana.  To convert this classic Italian pasta sauce to a pizza sauce I added a little heavy cream and finished with grated Pecorino.  

There are so many ways to make your sauce unique to your shop but whatever you do, it’s great to have a good base sauce as a starting point and then experiment from there. Here are two basic recipes to get you started. Feel free to veer as far off course your imagination allows.  

Marinara with Anchovies

Get the Marinara with Anchovies recipes.

 

Vodka Sauce

Get the Vodka Sauce recipe.

Audrey Kelly  owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado. 

>> Explore answers to more common pizza dough questions in Troubleshooting your Pizza Dough: What’s wrong with my pizza dough? <<

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The Strategy of Menu Design https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/the-strategy-of-menu-design/ Fri, 01 Apr 2022 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/the-strategy-of-menu-design/ Online or digital, menus need to be visually pleasing and user friendly From a basic list of pizza toppings to a well-engineered online ordering process, the right menu design can make the difference between a customer placing an order or going elsewhere. Pizzeria owners must consider certain design details when updating a menu or adding […]

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Online or digital, menus need to be visually pleasing and user friendly

From a basic list of pizza toppings to a well-engineered online ordering process, the right menu design can make the difference between a customer placing an order or going elsewhere. Pizzeria owners must consider certain design details when updating a menu or adding a digital menu, including how many items to list, whether to include photos, and how to make the process one that encourages people to order more food. 

Get to the Point 

Whether in print or digital, use concise descriptions of menu items. “People don’t want to read and read,” says Larry Fiel, vice president of marketing and communications for PDQ Signature Systems in Warminster, Pennsylvania. “They are hungry and they want to order.” 

The need for brevity is necessary, especially if people are reading the menu on the small screen of a smartphone. That’s becoming more common, as during the COVID-19 crisis many restaurants switched from paper menus to QR codes to access an online menu. That coronavirus safety protocol turned out to be a good way to save paper, not to mention costs, so it will likely continue. 

Consider Location 

For years, the oft-repeated wisdom was that the top right of a printed menu was the sweet spot, and the bottom left was the dead zone. These days, many menus are posted online and people simply scroll through them. Fiel says some time-tested tactics are still relevant. For example, list prices without dollar signs, and not in a straight column, because that draws the customer’s attention to how much the meal will cost. He recommends featuring the most expensive item in the center of the menu. The customer will look at the item, decide it’s too expensive, and then read the item below it. “That’s where you put your high margin item,” he says.

Organize the menu into categories that make sense to the reader. “Customers are accustomed to navigating menus by food type or courses,” says Hoang Nguyen, director of client services and co-founder of Leewood, Kansas-based Menufy. “They will be less inclined to order more items if they struggle to navigate your menu. A restaurant’s online and printed menus should make it easy for customers to find the item they have in mind.” As for placement, Nguyen recommends listing the most profitable item first for each category. 

Add Photos 

Nguyen recommends including high-quality photos on online menus. “Menufy tested this and found that after a sample of client restaurants added professional photos to the restaurant’s website, order volume increased by an average of more than 75 percent,” he says. On printed menus, however, use fewer images, as too many can overwhelm customers. 

Be selective about photos. “We choose photos based on how the cheese and crust looks to make sure it looks super appetizing,” says Amber Johnson, director of marketing for Medina, Ohio-based Romeo’s Pizza Franchise, LLC., based in Medina, Ohio. “Then we review the color composition of the photo to ensure it meets our brand standards.” 

Romeo’s Pizza has photos on digital menus and on print menus in stores. While digital offers the opportunity to offer more information, avoid putting too much on the ordering site. “Make sure the user experience is easy to navigate,” Johnson says. “Don’t overcrowd the menu trying to list everything in significant detail.” 

Make Ordering Easy 

If there is too much detail, customers skim the information and miss something important. “We used to have crazy pies and combos, but people ordering online don’t read all the ingredients,” says Dave Kuban, who owns the Norwalk, Connecticut location of Planet Pizza. “The food would get there and people would say, ‘I didn’t know it had bacon, I don’t eat bacon,’ or ‘This has white sauce, where’s the red sauce?'” 

While specialty pizzas with whimsical names are still available at the restaurant, the online menu doesn’t list those. Online orders are limited to build-your-own pizza, with a choice of toppings for small, medium or large pies. That way, people choose their toppings, and there is no risk of someone accidentally ordering a pie with an ingredient they didn’t want. “You don’t want to lose that future business,” Kuban says. 

Don’t overwhelm customers at the store either, especially if they are ordering from a kiosk. “Keep it simple,” says Christina N. Stephens, project coordinator for Rochester, N.Y.-based Microworks POS Solutions. The customer is probably using the kiosk while others are waiting, so keep the menu clean and simple. “Don’t overload it with too many groups and items. Make the start to finish of each item simple. Don’t require too many clicks in order to add an item to your cart.” 

Offering too many options can cause operational issues. Although it’s important to let customers order what they want, it’s better not to offer endless customization. That can lead to extended time at the kiosk station, and opens the possibility of errors. “Kitchens are busy and offering every item to be specifically cooked and every topping substituted leads to errors and inaccurate makes,” Stephens says. “That obviously leads to unhappy consumers and profit loss from either the loss of a customer or the re-make of the items.”

Give Customers What They Want

Others maintain that the ability to swap out the type of crust or add a specific type of cheese is an important consumer expectation. “Customizing products is a huge benefit to customers,” says Mac Malchow, director of national marketing and menu innovation for Toppers Pizza, based in Whitewater, Wisconsin. “Leaving this out can quickly lead to bounces from your menu and website.”

While online ordering grew during the pandemic, and is expected to continue, the process does have a limitation. “With an in-store menu, you get the benefit of an interaction with a team member,” Malchow says. “That doesn’t happen with a digital menu, so you need to treat it almost like it’s a marketing collateral that needs to sell products.” 

For a pizzeria, good menu design can do more than simply letting your customers know what’s available. “If you can balance selling with a strong user experience, you’ve got something special,” Malchow says.

Nora Caley is a freelance writer who covers small business, finance and lifestyle topics. 

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Thin and Crispy Tavern Style Pizza is Sweeping the Nation https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/thin-and-crispy-tavern-style-pizza-is-sweeping-the-nation/ Tue, 01 Mar 2022 00:01:33 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=142617 Tavern Style Pizza is having a moment When I sat down to write about Tavern style pizza, I had a hard time organizing my thoughts. I thought about all the differences between them and was trying to figure out the best way to describe them all and hit a roadblock. I was trying to unify […]

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Tavern Style Pizza is having a moment

When I sat down to write about Tavern style pizza, I had a hard time organizing my thoughts. I thought about all the differences between them and was trying to figure out the best way to describe them all and hit a roadblock. I was trying to unify them when a light bulb turned on. Tavern style, also known as bar pies, are not unique to any one location. There are variations across the East Coast and all over the Midwest. The one characteristic that unifies them is that they are all thin crust but even how thin the pie is varies slightly. Some pies are cut into squares, and some are not. Some use cornmeal, others only use refined flour. Some use fats, some do not. Some are super low in salt to the point where you question if there is any in the recipe. Some are seemingly unleavened, and even the doneness of the bake challenges the color spectrum. Tavern very much is a style, thin crust and crispy.

chicago thin, pizza styleWhen Chicago pizza is mentioned in conversation, a lot of Americans think deep dish. Although deep dish pizza may be iconic and delicious, it is not the only style that Chicago makes. Of all the native Chicagoans I have spoken to, most of them say that pizza to them is always the thin and crispy tavern style. Deep dish is for the out-of-towners. Chicago styles are known for their use of cornmeal and the cracker thin is not exempt from this. How much cornmeal is used varies but cornmeal itself is a great way to make a crispy pie. 

Par baking the dough is another way to add crispiness to a thin-crust pie. As much as I love crispy thin-crust pizzas, they lose that crunch very quickly as the pizza cools down. Maintaining that crispiness is one of the hardest traits to keep. Utilizing cornmeal and a par bake or double bake method helps ensure your pizza stays crispy for a longer period of time. How would you do this? 

Coat your dough ball in cornmeal and roll it out with a rolling pin or use a sheeter. Once you’ve reached your desired size or thickness, dock it, place it on a peel and slide it into the oven. Without any sauce, cheese or toppings, par bake it just for two minutes or just until it’s no longer raw and the bottom is just beginning to show some spots of color. Remove it from the oven and stack them until ready to use. When an order comes in, top it as you normally would and then finish the bake until it’s crispy and the toppings are cooked. The par-baked shell is not only quicker on the line when orders come in because it’s prepped and ready to go but that double bake helps evaporate out more moisture. Without the addition of sauce on the first bake, there’s no barrier keeping moisture in. Chicago thin crust is normally cut into squares.

Another type of tavern style comes out of St. Louis. This may be the funkiest style of pizza I have had. Super crispy but with an overly sweet sauce and then a processed cheese called Provel on top of that. 

Provel on its own deserves a mention. It comes in a block and it’s a processed cheese composed of provolone, Swiss and cheddar. It has a super low melting point and a high flow rate so a small amount spreads a lot and is quick to burn. 

When you eat a St. Louis pie, you get a crispiness mingled with the sweet sauce and then this super sticky processed cheese that sticks to your front teeth. It’s not for everyone but sometimes you just need a little indulgence that isn’t going to ruin your day. And since it’s thin crust, this pizza is it for me. 

The dough itself seems unleavened and doesn’t have the same coloration as a pie that has a sugar content. Instead of using a New York-style dough, I would use a low protein flour similar to a Neapolitan or even an all-purpose flour and omit any sugar or fat. This gives you a different kind of crisp. There is no cornmeal or Semolina and to make it even crispier I always use the double bake method. 

This pizza is even thinner than the Chicago version and without the durability of cornmeal the dough can be fragile and prone to bubbling in the oven. To prevent this, I add a little bit of sauce on that first bake to help keep the dough from bubbling too much. Keeping in mind the low melting point of the cheese, this will change how long I bake the shell the first time as compared to the second and final bake when it has been topped. If it’s a plain cheese pie, I will bake the shell a minute or two longer the first time so that the final bake is slightly shorter making sure the cheese does not burn. If the pizza has toppings, especially a raw sausage, I will shorten the first par bake and lengthen the final bake so that the toppings have time to cook but it’s not in the oven long enough to burn. The moisture from the toppings, as well as the coverage, helps make sure the cheese does not burn. This pie is normally cut into squares.

The other Tavern pie that stands out to me is the East Coast pie. This thin-crust pie is not always cut into squares, not always round, sometimes oblong in shape, and can be cooked almost to the point of burnt but is considered normal. Toppings and cheese are thrown on haphazardly and usually to the edge. There is no cornmeal in this pie and is thin but a little thicker than the St. Louis style.

One of the main features of a tavern style pie is always the crisp. For those that have cornmeal and fat, they have a snap reminiscent to a Ritz cracker. It’s crispy and it snaps but there’s a density to it. Other styles like the St. Louis and East Coast versions have no fat or cornmeal and have a snap like a saltine cracker. All of these styles are “cracker” thin, but the type of snap is what sets them apart.

Laura Meyer  is Chef at Capo’s and Administrator and Teaching Assistant at the International School of Pizza in San Francisco

>> Explore Pizza Dough Recipes for Top Trending Pizza Styles including Detroit, New York, Grandma, Sicilian, Chicago Thin and Deep Dish. <<

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Building Blocks: How to Keep Active in Hiring Every Day https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/building-blocks-how-to-keep-active-in-hiring-every-day/ Tue, 01 Mar 2022 00:01:30 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=142628 Not that long ago in the land of pizzerias, owners and managers knew what a day off looked like. Employees were plentiful and hiring was an afterthought. Every now and then, you’d find the stack of applications behind the counter and knew you should call a few of them — but didn’t want to overwhelm […]

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Not that long ago in the land of pizzerias, owners and managers knew what a day off looked like. Employees were plentiful and hiring was an afterthought. Every now and then, you’d find the stack of applications behind the counter and knew you should call a few of them — but didn’t want to overwhelm your schedule. 

Nick Bogacz, founder and president of Caliente Pizza & Draft House, Pittsburgh

Nick Bogacz, founder and president of Caliente Pizza & Draft House in Pittsburgh

One pandemic and many variants later, plus government mandates and handouts, here we are enduring the greatest labor shortage of our generation. Many of us cannot remember the last day off we’ve had or feel guilty about not being in the pizzeria when we finally do get a day off. Our managers are burned out, and rank-and-file employees are also worn thin. 

So, what’s the solution? For many operators, shortening hours or closing a couple days a week has been the answer. But that’s not viable long-term. That’s playing defense, and there’s only one way out of this mess: going on the offensive.

Previously in this column, we’ve talked about wage increases, adding benefits, employee incentives and all the other ways to keep your team intact. But, conversely, long gone are the days of finding that stack of applications for new hires. So, instead of being passive, embrace that hiring activities are a daily task. You cannot just jump on the pizza line and only think about hiring when someone calls off — you have to be active every day. 

Sure, you can put up a sign advertising a potential hourly rate plus a signing bonus. Right now, that’s too common and too lazy. Full disclosure: I’ve tried it and it hasn’t worked — and I’ve tried everything. 

Thankfully, many of us are independent operators who excel at sales. Think of hiring the same way. Bait the hooks — all of them. That’s why, at my store, we flood the market with ads and strategies to encourage hiring prospects. 

Where you’ll find our ads:

  • On every single pizza box
  • Indeed (spending $1,000 to $2,000 per store, per month)
  • Craigslist (three ads for each position weekly)
  • Facebook/Instagram (weekly, with good pictures)
  • All stores have a hiring banner (just not as cheesy as the one already mentioned)

Additionally, your current employees can be a great resource. Ask around if they know anyone that is looking for a job. We also have a referral bonus program and include letters about it in every paycheck.

Once someone applies through any of those methods, contact them within four hours (I’ve found the best time to reach someone is between 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. during the work week) and try to set up an interview within 48 hours. If you’re not willing to commit to those two action items, you might be doomed to be understaffed for a long time. Again, it’s about remaining on the offensive to fill empty positions as quickly as possible. 

Once you have an applicant in for the interview, if all goes well, you might find you have guilt-free time off again. But that leads us to our next topic: how to conduct an interview. We’ll touch on that next month.

Nick Bogacz is the founder and president of Caliente Pizza & Draft House in Pittsburgh.  Instagram: @caliente_pizza

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Chorizo can make a splash with your customers https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/chorizo-can-make-a-splash-with-your-customers/ Tue, 01 Mar 2022 00:01:27 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=142650 Flavorful Fan Favorite There’s a reason sausage is America’s second-most favorite pizza topping. It brings lots of fatty flavor and oily goodness to a pie. In addition to holding its own as a standalone topping, it also pairs well with so many different meats and vegetables. While crumbled or sliced will lend different textures (which […]

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Flavorful Fan Favorite

There’s a reason sausage is America’s second-most favorite pizza topping. It brings lots of fatty flavor and oily goodness to a pie. In addition to holding its own as a standalone topping, it also pairs well with so many different meats and vegetables. While crumbled or sliced will lend different textures (which you go with is largely determined by personal preference), there’s no disputing sausage in any form is a top topping.

In recent years I have taken to favoring chorizo when I use sausage in the test kitchen or order a pizza for myself that includes sausage. I appreciate the spice level and the flavor just hits my taste buds right. 

Though it may be a staple in Cajun dishes, Spanish cuisine and Mexican dishes, you aren’t limited to a “Mexican Pizza” when working with this delicious sausage. Here are some recipes I have enjoyed over the years, two of which come from two of the most creative chefs I’ve had the pleasure of working with — John Gutekanst and the late Pat Bruno. I encourage you to give these recipes a try in your kitchen. And, as always, have your staff experiment a little and put your own twist on these dishes in order to meet the needs of your customer base.

“I make these meatballs every weekend on large pizzas al metro and schiacciata, and with all sorts of Spanish and Mexican cheeses,” says John Gutekanst, owner of Ohio’s Avalanche Pizza. “The meatballs are wonderful islands in a sea of cheese and melt like the finest eye-candy! The small breading soaks up the egg and solidifies the ball when baked.”

Get the Chorizo Meatballs recipe.

Before his passing, Pat Bruno contributed a wealth of articles, recipes and Pizza Expo demonstrations. He was always jovial, fun to be around and, most of all, eager to share. He provided us with this pizza recipe that I love to this day.

Get the Chorizo Pizza recipe.

Last but certainly not least, I’d like to share with you this Cajun pasta recipe that builds on jambalaya’s influence. Its original incarnation used andouille, but I like to substitute with chorizo and think you’ll enjoy it, too.

Get the Jambalaya Pasta recipe.

Jeremy White is Editor-in-Chief at Pizza Today.

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Pasta For Profits https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/pasta-for-profits/ Tue, 01 Mar 2022 00:01:24 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=142637 Throughout the last 12 years of my career I’ve put a lot of thought into how to increase my pasta sales. Historically, pasta sales were less than 25 percent of total menu item sales (while stromboli and NYC style pizza are what our East Coast eatery is known for). There was a lot of profit […]

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Throughout the last 12 years of my career I’ve put a lot of thought into how to increase my pasta sales. Historically, pasta sales were less than 25 percent of total menu item sales (while stromboli and NYC style pizza are what our East Coast eatery is known for). There was a lot of profit in pasta dishes that had been left sitting on the table. Despite our creative recipes, specialty cuts and pastas filled with imported cheeses, those numbers didn’t really grow.

Moreover, during times of indoor dining restrictions, 20-inch pizzas and 30-inch  ‘Bolis were the hot ticket because they travel well, they’re portable, sharable and an economical way to feed a family during a time of economic uncertainty. 

Our pizza sales were higher than ever, but now that restaurant dining rooms have reopened, guests are gravitating toward a more personalized experience with individual dishes that are highly customizable, and highly profitable for us. Our pasta have never been higher, surpassing pizza and stromboli sales many nights. It is easy to take advantage of this trend if you can think outside of the (pizza) box.

Why is pasta so profitable? Because in a lot of cases, our guests will each order their own pasta dish at $13.00 to $25.00 per plate, plus any protein they may add vs. one shared 20-inch pie at $18.00 to $40.00 (which feeds four to six people). 

But it’s not only the higher per person average that makes pasta so profitable. Pasta has low cost of goods. With good training, solid recipes and portion controls, together with accurate pricing, you can create pasta dishes that are exciting to your guests, easy for your team to prepare and carry a high profit margin. Cross utilizing ingredients that you already have on hand is always good practice, try challenging yourself to find ways to be creative while keeping your inventory tight and your menu offerings fresh and innovative. Have fun with it!

If you’re considering adding a pasta program to your pizzeria or restaurant, think about cuts of pasta that you can use for multiple dishes. Ziti or penne can be used in a variety of dishes, such as baked ziti topped with broiled mozzarella; mac and cheese using a Wisconsin Brick Cheese and heavy cream; or even a veggie pasta dish with sautéed mushrooms, onions, garlic, roasted red pepper and artichoke hearts in a brown butter sauce. Ziti and penne are both versatile, travel well, hold sauces nicely and you can easily add a protein to any of these dishes to “enhance the guest experience”.

I also love rigatoni, although, it is a little more delicate and requires some finesse if you are going to par boil and re-thermalize it. Also consider how much storage space you have when deciding how many cuts you want to keep on hand. While fettuccine Alfredo and spaghetti are thought of as a staple, consider how many dishes you can really create with them. If space is a concern, then perhaps consider utilizing cuts with more versatility instead.

Depending on the size of your kitchen and how well equipped it is, you may consider adding lasagne to your menu. Although lasagne is labor intensive, it can be very profitable if you hit the right price point. If labor is a concern, you could consider making it a weekly special, in order to drive sales on a slower day of the week. Using a fresh pasta sheet opens up a world of possibilities. You can use them to make handcrafted manicotti, ravioli or pappardelle pasta. 

Another strategy is to offer only a few pasta cuts paired with a marinara recipe that can be easily adapted to create other sauces. Add ground beef for Bolognese; add crushed red pepper and other spices to make an Arrabbiata; or a vodka sauce made from a base of marinara, vodka and a hint of cream. 

Speaking of cream, if you already have grated Parmesan on hand, add butter and heavy whipping cream to create a delicious Alfredo sauce. Make it zippy and try simmering your Alfredo sauce with a few sweet picante peppers for a fun variation.

customized pasta bowlI mentioned that our guests are seeking a highly individualized and customizable experience. The advent of the “Chipotle” style restaurant has gifted us the “pick and choose” mentality. “I know you’ve got fill in the blank back there in the kitchen, why can’t you just cook that up with some pasta?” We’ve all had that guest. This is why a build-your-own pasta section of your menu is a winner! Pick your pasta, pick your sauce and protein.

When it comes to specialty pastas and substitutions, we must strike a balance between being a “restaurant” and protecting our brand. If the substitutions that your guest wants to make hurt the overall quality or integrity of the dish, or delay the experience of other guests, it’s going to fall on your shoulders. The crappy review won’t read, “The owner told me not to put marinara on my four cheese and pear pasta which was garnished with fresh sage and balsamic reduction, but I did it anyway and it was awful, my bad!” They will simply say that the pasta that you had imported from Italy and artfully crafted was overpriced and it sucked! Offer only the modifications that will work best with your recipes. You are responsible for the guest experience, so protect it.

I have learned that less is more. I had a huge pasta selection pre-pandemic and I was not selling a whole lot of any one thing and a little bit of everything. You will be more profitable if you sell a high volume of a few key pasta dishes. It will be easier to train your team to execute them perfectly if they have fewer dishes to learn, and they will appreciate having fewer SKUs to purchase, stock and count every week. (You ARE doing weekly inventory – Right?) Be selective and intentional about your pasta offerings and you will profit from pasta profits!

MELISSA RICKMAN  is co-founder of Wholly Stromboli in Fort Lupton, Colorado, and member of the World Pizza Champions.

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Unleashing Southeast Asian Flair in your Pizzeria https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/unleashing-southeast-asian-flair-in-your-pizzeria/ Tue, 01 Mar 2022 00:01:01 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=142666 Oceans of Flavor My love affair with Southeast Asian cuisine happened in 1984, when my Navy Squadron, VQ-1, were tasked with flying near Iran, but on the way to the Gulf of Oman, our spirited yet hedonistic crew suddenly found an “unexpected” warning light that was malfunctioning as soon as we entered Thai airspace. Much […]

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Oceans of Flavor

My love affair with Southeast Asian cuisine happened in 1984, when my Navy Squadron, VQ-1, were tasked with flying near Iran, but on the way to the Gulf of Oman, our spirited yet hedonistic crew suddenly found an “unexpected” warning light that was malfunctioning as soon as we entered Thai airspace. Much to our delight, landed near the vacation spot of Pattaya Beach to check it out (the beach that is). As I stood in the 100-degree heat with my best flowered beach shirt, shorts and aircrew boots on waiting for permission to go into town, an older woman on a pedi-cart rolled up to the plane. She had made hot Pad Kra Pra which she doled out to our ravenous crew. This stir-fried minced pork with Thai basil, beans, carrots and shallots was the best thing I’ve ever eaten. As the garlic enveloped my face and teamed up with the heat of the chilies to fog my mind, I remembered thinking, “I’ve gotta have this again.”

In the years since, I have become supremely fond of the brilliant, fresh and bold flavors of Southeast Asia. The lure of heat, fresh crunch and depth are too potent for anyone with taste buds to look away from and I’ve been lucky enough to offer this array of tastes to my customers and expand my revenue stream. Here are some flavor profiles from the region.

  • Philippines. Use of beef and pork as well as seafood proteins dominate with less dramatic flavors and less chilies. Vinegar and meat broths are used. Spanish occupation shows its influence in the albondigas or sweet and sour meatballs and Bistek Tagalog with sirloin cooked La Plancha with oregano, cumin, soy, onions and garlic and the lemony calamansi sauce from the Philippine lime.
  • Laotian and Cambodian. Simple cooking styles dominate with Loatian, more of a homestyle feel using foraged ingredients like frogs, eels and roots. Both use less fish sauce, and more soy sauce. Cambodian cooking is not as hot and less sweet as other Asian cuisines although they use more galangal and lemongrass.
  • Thai. Seems to always have a great balance of sour, salty, sweet and hot. Curry has heat with chilies, sour with limes and lemon as well as lime leaf and lemongrass for sourness. Tamarind is both tart and sweet. Salt comes from fish sauce, soy sauce or salted fish; sweetness from coconut milk, pineapple and mango. Cilantro, mint and Thai basil offer a great finishing taste to a lot of dishes.
  • Vietnamese. French influences abound here like baguettes the Pho and Banh Mi and even pate are found. Citrusy and light stir fries and noodle dishes are slow simmered with lemongrass and star anise and include a multitude of vegetables and a lot of pepper. Soy glazed meats and pickled vegetables with the heat of bird chilies can take your breath away. 
  • Malaysian and Indonesian. These countries exhibit a melting pot of flavors from India to China and Thailand. Spices dominate both as rice, noodle and soup dishes are popular in Indonesia as well as curried meat, meatballs and spring rolls. In Malaysia, Arab, Portuguese and Dutch influences meld with Chinese to produce dishes line Chicken Rice and Laksa, the thick rice noodle dish in a spicy broth flavored with tamarind and coconut.

Southeast Asian flavor profiles for the Pizzeria

It’s easy enough to identify the ingredients and processes in creating Southeast Asian cuisine but incorporating them into your pizzeria or restaurant menu mix takes thought and preparation. Before presenting a Southeast Asian Pizza, I always check to see the most familiar sandwiches and street food that Americans are familiar with. It pays to look at your pizza like an open-faced sandwich and construct it with items both before and after the oven, (it also doesn’t have to be cheesy.) Here are some ingredients that pair well with your existing makeline ingredients.

  • Chili Jam, (Nam Prik Pao). This is one of the most common condiments in Thailand and consists of dried shrimp, garlic, shallots, Thai chilies, tamarind paste and fish sauce. It can easily be added to coat chicken pieces or with boneless chicken wings. Great with green peppers, jalapeños, pineapple, mushroom, aged provolone or Asiago, anchovies, roasted garlic, caramelized onion, ham and even pepperoni. Variations include making chili mayo, chili béchamel sauce, sweet chili honey, glazed pineapple and chili salsa with onion, cilantro and sweet peppers.
  • Pickled onion, peppers, bean sprouts and carrot. The combinations are endless. Use the chili jam above or with green apples or Asian pear with vinegar, fennel seeds, coriander seeds, ginger, salt and sugar. These will keep for a long time in the refrigerator and marry well as a finishing item with fresh cilantro.
  • Thai Curried Onions. Probably the biggest bang for the buck is simply roasting your makeline onions with Green, Red or Yellow Thai chili paste, a little oil and water. The onions transfer the flavor and sweeten the curry to make either a sauce with a blender or just on strong cheeses like feta, provolone and Romano. The surprising addition of maple-glazed ham or pork is a real winner.

 

Cambodian Khmere Sausage Pizza

This sausage pizza is all about preparation. Once the sausage, mayo and carrots are prepared, you’ll be ready to go. Much of the lovely part of this pizza is the freshness and crunch of the after-oven items of what most Southeast Asian aficionados call the “Holy Trintiy” of cucumber, cilantro and carrot. You may make additions to this like peanuts but may turn off anyone who is allergic to them.

Get the Cambodian Khmere Sausage Pizza recipe.

 

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Versatile eggplant has a spot on pizzeria menus https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/versatile-eggplant-has-a-spot-on-pizzeria-menus/ Tue, 01 Feb 2022 19:17:13 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=141870 Menu Appeal There is more to the versatile eggplant than its most familiar restaurant menu item, Eggplant Parmesan. This meaty ingredient has a place across your menu.  Its bounty is often found next to squash and zucchini in stores. But, technically classified in the berry family, it is easy to mistake this fruit for a […]

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Menu Appeal

There is more to the versatile eggplant than its most familiar restaurant menu item, Eggplant Parmesan. This meaty ingredient has a place across your menu. 

Its bounty is often found next to squash and zucchini in stores. But, technically classified in the berry family, it is easy to mistake this fruit for a vegetable. Eggplant comes in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors. The Globe is the most common eggplant variety,  known for its deep purple color. The Italian eggplant is a bit smaller than Globes and tend to be sweeter. Graffiti eggplants are also popular for their purple and white striping. Depending on your distributor or direct farm source, you may be able to tap into other varieties, like Japanese, Rosa Bianco and even Thai.

No matter which variety you choose, there are multiple ways to prepare eggplant, from pan seared, grilled and roasted to steamed and pickled. While you can eat eggplant raw, it is best cooked. And if it’s undercooked, eggplant can taste bitter.

A couple of notes to be aware of when preparing eggplant: When cutting, eggplant tends to brown quickly so be sure you are immersing them in water or hit the pieces with lemon juice. Eggplant has a very moist and spongy texture. Pat dry and salt before cooking.

There is nothing wrong with going with traditional eggplant dishes. Here are a few that you can add easily:

  • Eggplant Parmesan. Make this as an entrée or a sandwich version. If you want to market it as a plant-based option, be sure to substitute the dairy and egg from the breading and meal.
  • Eggplant Parmesan Lasagna. This is a great vegetarian option that can be made ahead and heated to serve.
  • Italian Eggplant Rollatini. It’s classic and full of flavor. Rollatini can be baked or fried.
  • Stuffed Eggplant. This a great canvas to create your own unique stuffing.

These recipes are all available at PizzaToday.com/recipes.

Don’t limit yourself to the eggplant standbys. Let’s look at a few menu ideas that could become hits at your restaurant:

Eggplant Caponata. Think Sicilian bruschetta. It’s a sweet and sour mix of eggplant, tomatoes, celery, onion, olives, garlic, vinegar and capers. It’s not too far from a ratatouille. Depending on your crostini application, this can also be a good vegan option. 

Baba Ganoush. This eggplant dip rivals hummus and is bursting with flavor. It’s typically served cold with crostini. You’ll also find it served with blanched or pickled veggies, a nice twist to a classic Mediterranean starter. See the Baba Ganoush recipe below.

Pasta alla Norma. It’s another traditional Sicilian dish that is simple and makes eggplant shine. It features your house marinara, roasted eggplant, basil, red pepper flakes and ricotta salata or Parmesan with your choice of pasta. 

Eggplant can easily be adapted into other menu ideas such as salads and soups, as well. Now, let’s talk pizza application. Remember: with such a high water content, it’s vital to cook out much of the water before using as a topping. Eggplant can easily be roasted in your pizza oven during prep and held on your make line. But don’t over oil the eggplant or it will turn into a soggy mess. 

Eggplant Parmigiana is one of the most common versions of pizza. There are so many other ways to incorporate eggplant on your pizza toppings list. Here are some combination ideas to test in your kitchen:

  • Eggplant, caramelized onion, goat cheese and fresh mozzarella
  • Smoked mozzarella, eggplant, pancetta
  • Spinach, mushroom, eggplant and ricotta
  • Eggplant, roasted garlic, mozzarella and finished with arugula (tossed with lemon vinaigrette)
  • Eggplant, blend of mozzarella, fontina, Asiago and Parmesan and finished with basil and hot chili oil.

Now, here are some recipes to try and adapt for your customers

 

Plant-a-bello Pizza

Get the Plant-a-bello Pizza recipe.

 

Baba Ganoush (aka Eggplant Dip)

Get the Baba Ganoush recipe.

 

Denise Greer is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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Farm to Table from a Chef’s Perspective https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/farm-to-table-from-a-chefs-perspective/ Tue, 01 Feb 2022 19:05:46 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=141859 Farm to Table: Risky, expensive, unpredictable, humbling, but totally rewarding. Farm to Table is not new. However, when I started my restaurant, Dante, 13 years ago, it was a daunting experience. If ever there were an ideal location to pull off a true ‘farm to table’ experience, it is here in the very center of the United […]

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Farm to Table: Risky, expensive, unpredictable, humbling, but totally rewarding.

Farm to Table is not new. However, when I started my restaurant, Dante, 13 years ago, it was a daunting experience. If ever there were an ideal location to pull off a true ‘farm to table’ experience, it is here in the very center of the United States surrounded by hundreds of miles of the most fertile and productive farms. Here we have access to the best proteins, fruits vegetables, tuber, mushrooms and other natural products. However, getting to all that abundant food product is not simple, straightforward or inexpensive. In 2008, it meant blazing new ground and literally creating a whole new supply chain from scratch. This is my story on how we created a whole new culinary food option for my new restaurant. Perhaps, most satisfying, is that I learned this ancient concept from the true cultivators of this very basic and natural process when I studied in Tuscany. Whether you are cooking in Omaha in the middle of the United States or in Cortana in the middle of Tuscany the basic ‘Farm to Table’ rules are the same.

The first thing to think about if you want to cook locally and seasonally: do your research. Find out what plants thrive around you and when. Omaha is a four-season city in the Heartland, with a growing year that is fairly predictable for chefs.  

What isn’t as predictable for me is when spring actually starts and how long the growing season will last for each particular product. Ramps are the first sign of spring, which grow wild for about two weeks until it gets too warm. Ramps are my very favorite ingredient because they can’t be cultivated, and they mark the beginning of spring for Omaha and our menu. The person that harvests them on her property, Leslie, is as obsessed with them as I am. They were the first settlers to own the land, and I like to think that Native Americans likely harvested the very same ramps on this land, their property, for 1,000 years before her and her people. These stories are powerful for your guests to hear, and they connect you and your restaurant to the land around you. People want to know where their food comes from! 

After the ramps we have nettles (wild), asparagus, arugula and morels. Every year I know to expect these products around the same time. I can go on and on with more seasonal examples through the march of seasons. Then inevitably, everything freezes, and we wait to start all over.

I like to tell people that Dante is hyper-seasonal. I say this because naturally the spring and summer seasons in Nebraska produce most of the produce. but that doesn’t mean that all “summertime produce” is available the entire summer. In other words, if you cook with your seasons, use what is available to you in your area locally at that time.

How do you begin the process of sourcing local farmers and producers? The local farmers markets are a good place to start. Walk around and talk to the producers. Tell them what you are doing and ask them what they are good at and enjoy growing. I have also found success in talking to my restaurant peers. Go out to eat and talk the chef. Tell them, “I love your arugula, where do you get it?”  It’s also great to cultivate restaurant friends to help with the many other challenges that we experience daily in this industry.

I prefer to work with experts in specific areas of farming and producing. Sometimes farmers come into the kitchen and ask, “what do you want me to grow?” I say, “what do you want to grow?!” I like experts in specific areas that know what vegetables grow best in our area and how to make them taste the best they can possibly be. It is very hard for me to do what we do at Dante without this kind of ‘subject matter expertise’, and frankly I don’t think that I would want to, nor would my guests. 

For example, at Dante, I work with a farmer named Carl Glansman. His farm is called Nishnabotna Naturals in Oakland, Iowa. He provides me with beautiful produce for our green salads. Even though many produce varieties are climate dependent, including arugula, (more on that later), Carl is an expert in knowing how his plants need to grow successfully and when. I have been working with Carl for 11 years and he delivers his perfect greens almost every day and my guests expect this. They expect perfect salads that are sometimes very spicy in the summer, and sweet and mild in the fall and spring. They even taste different week to week! Carl can talk for hours about his natural growing practices, most of which I don’t understand. He guides me by delivering to me what I need to present as perfect a salad as possible to my guests. It is hard to describe the thrill that I have when I deliver a salad with his greens to a table and be able to tell my guests that “Carl picked these greens for you this morning. They were in the ground at six this morning destined to land on this table for you”. My guests come to Dante for this type of experience, and I opened my restaurant to provide exactly this experience. It is my passion.

I also work with a farmer, Mike Levine, whose farm is called Fruit of Levine. He grows fantastic fennel, amazing asparagus in the spring and provides us with honey and a variety of honey-based products, that’s it – nothing else. Mike has been a beekeeper for more than 35 years. He knows exactly what to do to produce the most incredible honey possible. But guess what, sometimes it is not available. When that happens, then honey is not on the menu at Dante today. 

If you seek out these farmer technicians, you will be forced to cook in the season with what is provided to you by the people that are experts and are continuously learning more about what makes their particular, chosen specialty grow best. I have learned from them about their product that I buy and put on the Dante menu. My point is, learn from your producers and pass it on to your guests – they will appreciate it.

In Omaha, I tell people that you will never see tomatoes on the menu in January, as it’s usually freezing, and tomatoes require heat! Why would anyone want to eat a tasteless, mealy, appalling and poor representation of something that was harvested maybe weeks prior, stacked in boxes and thrown on a truck and driven 1,500 miles to me? Look, in Omaha there is no way to cook only local year-round (our key season is May, June, July, August, September and October notwithstanding). BUT you can mitigate the damage if you are in tune with what is available and when. 

Perhaps ironically, I find it much easier to be creative with my menu when there are hard constraints. If it is February in Omaha and you want to cook locally, (which by default would make it seasonal), you understand what is available during that time. Warning: there won’t be a lot to choose from. But with tubers and mushrooms, at least you have a starting point to begin to build a menu or a pizza. After you cook with the seasons for a year, you will begin to understand what grows best and when, and where to source your product. Hopefully you will learn to avoid forcing items that don’t belong — i.e., that mushy tomato in winter.

The Farm to Table experience can be frustrating, risky, expensive, seasonally unpredictable, and sometimes humbling as you try to build a menu around items that are not ready for harvest. In the end, this has been a totally rewarding journey, not only for me as a chef, but for my discerning customers that have come to expect the best and enjoy it. I can’t overstate the thrill of being able to deliver a plate of summer greens to my guests, that literally were in the ground just hours before. Farm to table for me has become a passion — a passion that tracks back to my culinary experiences in Italy. In retrospect, my guests come to Dante for this type of experience, and I opened my restaurant to provide exactly this experience. Like I said, it is my passion.

Nick Strawhecker owns Dante in Omaha, Nebraska.

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Smoked Pizza Toppings: The Smoke Ridge Boys https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/smoked-pizza-toppings-the-smoke-ridge-boys/ Tue, 01 Feb 2022 18:59:40 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=141856 “True barbeque in my opinion is smoking meat. It’s an art form and it’s tricky to get just right.” — Brad Rocco, 2014 World Pizza Champion, Smoked Portobello and Pepperoni Pizza Smoking is one of the oldest techniques for changing the flavor dynamic of vegetables, fish and meats. It is also a great way to […]

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“True barbeque in my opinion is smoking meat. It’s an art form and it’s tricky to get just right.” — Brad Rocco, 2014 World Pizza Champion, Smoked Portobello and Pepperoni Pizza

Smoking is one of the oldest techniques for changing the flavor dynamic of vegetables, fish and meats. It is also a great way to preserve foods. The Romans smoked Westphalian ham and cheeses. The early Norwegians had an overabundance of fish but not enough salt to preserve them but eventually learned from the Celts and the Germans that a small amount of brine and a lot of smoke was the perfect solution. In France, wine was often matured in lofts where meats were smoked and this was thought to improve the wine, much to the dismay of the Romans.

These days world champion Ismaele Romano of Via Focaccia in Las Vegas says that in Sicily, smoking is usually done with orange wood or almond wood. Chef Romano says that in Sicily smoked meats are accompanied by fresh Sicilian oregano, fresh garlic, parsley and lemon zest. He says that when smoking lamb, you must add mint and that he is very fond of Sicilian roasted vegetables where onions, peppers, tomatoes and eggplant are roasted and smoked to make a salad. Brad Rocco, owner of Bexley Pizza Plus in Columbus, Ohio and a huge smoking enthusiast, has been creating tavern style and Detroit style pizzas with different smoked proteins and cheeses like low moisture provolone and Colby that, he says, are better for smoking than mozzarella or burrata. 

 

My Cup Runneth Smoker

Some of the most successful barbeque places in the U.S. have fashioned smokers out of discarded drums and cans. Here are a few ways to smoke items in your pizzeria or restaurant. 

Electric smokers: The older models like Little Chief are just boxes with heating elements in the bottom with a pan for the wood chips below a replaceable rack. You adjust the top lid to your liking of temperature. The new electric smokers use the same style with probes, timers and alarms. 

BBQ grills and charcoal smokers: These range from barrel, egg or cabinet and are the gold standard to deep smoky flavor and that famous smoke ring on meats. These rely on the control of the flow of air to smoke which can lead to either dry and tough foods or ashy and bitter foods.

Propane Smokers: These are usually shaped like a cabinet, with the vents and burner at the bottom. Some have a water pan, and the chimney and dampers are located at the top. They are very fast and can be smoking within 10 minutes. 

Offset smokers: These were originally made from discarded barrels. The firebox is located to the side and below the cooking chamber, so the smoke and heat is drawn across the food. These take longer than other smokers to get going but are great for smoking a lot of food.

Oven smoked pans:  These are made to be used for small amounts of foods and can be heated quickly during or before service. Basically, just a pan with a raised wire rack and a lid for a small amount of smoking chips to enhance vegetables, fruit and thin strips of meat or chicken.

Smoking packets: Who would have thought it was so easy. By putting smoking chips in a foil satchel with holes in the top and placing it in the bottom of a large, lidded pan, you can smoke just about anything small like cheeses, potatoes, cabbage and carrots.

 

Wood for Flavor

Smoking has its roots around the world and the very center of any smoking enterprise is the fuel for the smoke. 

Pecan: Doesn’t burn as hot as oak but has a gentle, sweet flavor. Best used for short term smoking fish, chicken and shoulder cuts of pork.

Oak: Many barbeque pros love white oak because it has a mellow, smoky flavor and gives a fairly even and moderate heat.

Hickory: This wood is more powerful than oak but is perfect for heavier meats like beef.

Apple, Cherry and Other Fruit Woods: These offer a rounded sweetness and gentle smoke that adds a very subtle flavor to fish chicken and pork. This wood burns fast and is great for short-term direct smoking. 

Mesquite: This wood burns hot and fast and is strong flavored. This is great for steak or big meats for a quick hot smoked product.

 

Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em!

Here are some items that can turn your pizza line up from boring to… smokin’!

Root Vegetables: Smoked with cherry wood and thyme, garlic, savory, sage and rosemary. Moist root vegetables like kohlrabi and many radish variants benefit from a splash of smoke then a quick cure of salt and sugar. Best paired with celery, cucumber, lemon, bourbon, coffee or basil.

Mushrooms: My rule of thumb in smoking mushrooms is, the meatier and more boring the mushroom, the better. This is because many mushrooms have a nuanced floral and earthy flavor that gets saturated with strong aromas of smoke. Just 10 to 15 minutes in fruit wood like apple is enough to enhance the mushroom for further cooking. Best paired with leek and onion, thyme, lavender, pork and even strawberry.

Cheeses: Colby, Fontina, Gouda, cheddar, and even Swiss can be great after a dose of cold smoking.

Pork: This is the king of smoking in the pizzeria. Smoking big belly is the king but by smoking tougher, less fatty cuts like pork loin, you can make Canadian Bacon. This only entails a rub of salt, sugar and pepper, or the options of coriander, thyme, cayenne, rosemary, sage or fennel to steer the loin to your flavorful liking.

Lamb: If you can smoke less-pricey cuts of lamb like shoulder, breast or leg, you’ll be able to serve it on pizza. Lamb is a specialty on numerous flatbreads in the middle east like the Turkish Pide. Thyme, sage, rosemary, garlic, sumac and coriander are all good rubs. Sliced thin after the oven atop creamy goat cheeses with mint, pomegranate syrup and pine nuts.

Duck: Like lamb, this is often overlooked by pizza people as an affordable pizza alternative protein. It may seem like an “elitist” element but in my book, nothing beats duck pastrami cured with juniper, ginger, cloves and garlic and smoked to perfection. Sliced thin with cherries and burrata is a sight to behold.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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How to make vegan/plant-based options financially feasible https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/how-to-make-vegan-options-financially-feasible/ Tue, 01 Feb 2022 17:49:04 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=141740 The Dollars and Sense of Plant-based in Pizzerias The plant-based revolution has arrived. We all know this by now. If it wasn’t clear before, look no further than how many plant-based vendors there were at the 2021 International Pizza Expo in August compared to even two or three years ago. So, what does that mean […]

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The Dollars and Sense of Plant-based in Pizzerias

The plant-based revolution has arrived. We all know this by now. If it wasn’t clear before, look no further than how many plant-based vendors there were at the 2021 International Pizza Expo in August compared to even two or three years ago. So, what does that mean for your pizzeria? The number of all plant-based pizzerias in the world can probably be counted on one hand, maybe two. This means that virtually all the pizzerias in the world are not vegetarian or vegan with their primary market being carnivores. Will the whole planet eventually go vegan? Oh probably not, but many people while not going completely vegan are now demanding plant-based options either for themselves or a family member. They’re called “flexitarians”. I always say there is a vegan or vegetarian in every social circle whether that be friends and or family.  

Carnivores make up most of the world’s population. Only five percent of the world’s population identify as vegan or vegetarian. That being said, according to Bloomberg, the plant-based market is expected to increase to $162 Billion by 2030 from $30 billion today. For the savvy restaurant owner, a healthy increase in sales is on the table for those who are willing to put plant-based options on their menu and properly market and price those options. Not to digress but while cycling in Denver I always pass the hot dog vendor at Confluence Park. I told him once to add a vegan hot dog and he would increase his sales by 15 to 20 percent, which is significant. I said to him that I, as well as many others, would buy a hot dog almost every time we come here if he had a vegan dog. That was about two years ago. He hasn’t added one. Sometimes stubbornness gets in the way of reason. I will tell his wife next time and I bet I would have more success. Maybe he can afford to ignore this ever-expanding market, but can you?

Let’s explore the financial feasibility of adding plant-based options to your menu. With supply chains cut or disrupted, a worker scarcity and inflationary pressure, it’s a challenging time to be a restaurant owner. So, the question begs, how does adding plant-based options affect the bottom line? At the end of the day as much as we want to be altruistic (and we are), making money doing something we love is why we are in the pizza business. Anyone who says otherwise is either lying or going out of business fast.

I want to first look at the two most popular toppings in the pizza world: cheese and pepperoni. Right now, for Pizza Head in Missouri, shredded whole milk dairy mozzarella is $3.19 per pound. Our vegan shredded mozzarella is around $7 per pound. The margin on pizza is large compared to other cuisines so there is plenty of room. Even though I don’t believe you have to put a premium on vegan products, customers are more than willing to pay a premium because the plant-based market is fiercely loyal and health conscious. They are willing to travel far and pay higher prices than regular consumers. The flexitarians might balk, but even they will pay a premium (although begrudgingly). For example, our 20-inch cheese pizza starts at $18 before toppings, but our vegan cheese pizza is $22. We also make cashew cheese.

Cashews are about $4 per pound and with labor, it comes to about $5 per pound. Portion size is important with expensive ingredients. You want the customer to feel satisfied, but you have to make sure you’re not putting too much product on. For example, the vegan shredded mozzarella goes a long way. A lot is not needed to get enough flavor for the customer to be satisfied and you haven’t broken the bank with a vegan pizza. I think there is a psychological aspect to pricing as well. Having higher prices for plant-based items gives the impression they are worth more and better. In this writer’s opinion that is true. However, perception is half the battle.

Pepperoni, an Italian American creation, is unquestionably the most popular pizza topping in the United States. Although pepperoni is an offspring of Italian salami, pepperoni doesn’t really exist in its American form anywhere else. (Except U.S. based fast food chain pizza where you can probably get a pepperoni pizza anywhere in the world). Vegan pepperoni can range from $6 per pound to $12.50 a pound. More and more manufactures are developing plant-based pepperoni. I do see the price going down in the future with more supply entering the market. 

vegan Spaghetti Bolognese, Adding vegan pastas to your menu

Vegan Spaghetti Bolognese

Vegan pepperoni is usually made from wheat gluten and soy with the same spices as regular pepperoni. It can be hard to tell the difference, but meat-based pepperoni will usually be much greasier and of course will have cholesterol. Plant-based pepperoni, on the other hand, will have amazing flavor — but the texture could vary depending on the manufacturer. Plant-based pepperoni has no animal fat or cholesterol, making it a much healthier choice. The one we use even curls but will be a bit drier. We always add olive oil to our vegan pizzas. Pork and beef-based pepperoni can vary with quality and price. One other thing to consider is that vegan pepperoni is made primarily with wheat and soy, two widely available crops so prices will not fluctuate as much as meat-based pepperoni. Pre-seasoned and pre-cooked pepperoni can be had at about $4 a pound. Top shelf pepperoni can run up to $7 per pound. As of now plant-based pepperoni is more expensive than regular pepperoni, but that could change over the next couple of years.

Adding plant-based options to your menu is an absolute no brainer unless you’re satisfied with your offerings and don’t need to or wish to cater to the plant-based audience. Over time I do believe that you could be hurting your growth and bottom line. Due to the increased revenue that you’ll be gaining and the fact that you can charge more, plant-based options will most certainly pencil in. There must be an effort to market the new offerings otherwise you could be throwing out expensive inventory that doesn’t get sold and then claim you tried it but it didn’t work. This is exciting new territory for the pizza world. Veganism and vegetarianism is no longer this radical philosophy that was looked at with skepticism in the food world. 

Scott Sandler is a consultant, frequent speaker at Pizza Expo and Pizza and Pasta Northeast and Pizza Today contributor. 

 

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Five Plant-based Items to Add to Your Restaurant Menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/five-plant-based-items-you-should-add-to-your-menu/ Sat, 01 Jan 2022 19:36:03 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=140797 Homemade Vegetarian Vegan Buffalo Chicken Wings with Ranch These days you can’t go anywhere or read anything about the food industry without hearing the phrase “plant-based”. For most in the restaurant business this may seem like a “trend” but for those that have chosen this path, it’s an ethical choice, or a whole new way […]

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Homemade Vegetarian Vegan Buffalo Chicken Wings with Ranch

These days you can’t go anywhere or read anything about the food industry without hearing the phrase “plant-based”. For most in the restaurant business this may seem like a “trend” but for those that have chosen this path, it’s an ethical choice, or a whole new way of thinking about our place on the planet as well as our relationship to animals. Given climate change, an epidemic of diet related illnesses and issues relating to exploitation hitting the current social conversation, many consumers are re-thinking their approach to food. Plant-based dining will only grow in the future, as many consumers are now demanding these plant-based options. On November 2, New York City just elected its first “vegan” mayor. Restaurant and pizzeria owners should take note. Will it ever completely replace animal product-based diets? Probably not. But the positives of the plant-based movement are undeniable. 

We are going to talk about the best five vegan side items for your pizzeria. Salads are an obvious given so we won’t talk too much about them as they are one of the five vegan sides you should have. There are so many salad combinations. The one thing about salads is you should replace any meat and dairy with their vegan substitutes, such as vegan ranch dressing, vegan Parmesan, vegan bacon and chicken, etc. In 2014, when I started in this business there were pretty much zero options for vegan cheese, meat, sauces and salad dressings. In 2021, it’s very easy to obtain plant-based products for your pizzerias. Contact your food distributor to see what they have with regards to plant-based products.

The first side item I recommend would be a hot vegan meatball sub sandwich. At the 2021 International Pizza Expo, I counted at least eight or nine plant-based booths offering vegan meats and cheeses. One particular both piqued my interest with their jackfruit based vegan meatballs. All that’s required of this side item is a good Italian roll or baguette, the meatballs, pizza sauce and vegan mozz shred and/or Parmesan. The meatballs come frozen and they just need to be heated. Keep the meatballs in a warmer with sauce. Place the meatballs and sauce in the sandwich, add your cheese and then toast the sandwich in your pizza oven on a screen until the bread is lightly toasted. Wrap and roll with foil and the customer now has a delicious sandwich to take with them on the go or to eat in. It’s that simple! I recommend making the hero about eight inches long. However, you could do six inches as well. The most important thing that I cannot stress enough is do not use day-old bread. Always make the sub with bread made that day. Otherwise the bread, even toasted, will be chewy. This is my number one pet peeve when I get a sandwich. Often, I can easily tell that the bread is at least a day old.

The second vegan side item I recommend is vegan hot wings with buffalo sauce and a vegan ranch dipping sauce. These just require defrosting and heating up to order. I don’t recommend trying to make them yourself. There are a few plant-based companies offering these wings. I do recommend making your own vegan buffalo sauce. You can find numerous vegan buffalo sauce recipes online by googling the keywords. Sometimes you can find buffalo sauce in the store or from your supplier that’s vegan as well. Again, just ask your distributor. With the wings offer a side of vegan ranch dipping sauce. This can be purchased or made yourself. I know there are a few companies making vegan ranch. To make your own just combine raw cashews, water, apple cider vinegar, salt, onion powder, garlic powder, dried parsley, chives and dill. Then blend to desired taste and texture.  

The third vegan side item is vegan garlic cheesy bread. Just use your existing dough for pizza. Make the disk a little smaller than your normal pizza (so the bread is a little thicker.) Spread olive oil and garlic heavily. Add a little good quality mineral salt. Then add a vegan shredded mozzarella cheese and vegan Parmesan or nutritional yeast. You can use fresh garlic, chopped garlic or even garlic powder. Put lots of cheese on the pizza and then top it off with some chili flakes or chili oil. Bake like a normal pizza (It may take longer). Cut in long rectangular strips. Serve with a side of your red pizza sauce for dipping. Customers love to dip their bread in a marinara sauce. 

The fourth vegan side item is roasted green olives. I recommend green castelvetrano olives, but any good quality olive can be used. Do not used canned! Toss olives in olive oil, garlic, salt and red pepper. Roast in your pizza oven in a portioned cast-iron skillet. Make them to order. Have a bigger cast iron pan for multiple orders at once.

Lastly, Salads are always a no brainer but I recommend a vegan kale Caesar. Kale holds up really well and doesn’t get soggy or go bad quickly. First rub the kale lightly with olive oil.  Top with sunflower seeds (can be toasted) toss in vegan ranch dressing with added vegan Parmesan and vegan bacon bits. Croutons are optional. This is a simple, healthy, delicious salad that will be really popular. 

On a side note. a vegan cookie is also a great option. The best thing to do is find a local vegan baker to buy your cookies. These days there are many vegan bakers with online ordering or with a storefront.

As you can see there are plenty of great plant-based side items you can add to your menu. These items serve a triple purpose. These options provide non-vegan diners with different takes on classics and new flavors and at the same time show your openness and sensitivity to the plant-based market. Lastly, they make you more money and of course we all like money!

Scott Sandler is owner of Pizza Head in St. Louis, Missouri and a frequent speaker at Pizza Expo and Pizza and Pasta Northeast.

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The Windy City’s signature dish, the Italian Beef Sandwich https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/the-windy-citys-signature-dish-the-italian-beef-sandwich/ Sat, 01 Jan 2022 19:24:58 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=140790 Found the Beef Chicago is visited for many reasons: world renowned museums, innovative and jaw dropping architecture, some of the most popular blues clubs in the country, Michael Jordan, Wrigley Field… the list goes on. But like any other city in the world, if you really want to gauge the pulse of the city, if […]

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Found the Beef

Chicago is visited for many reasons: world renowned museums, innovative and jaw dropping architecture, some of the most popular blues clubs in the country, Michael Jordan, Wrigley Field… the list goes on. But like any other city in the world, if you really want to gauge the pulse of the city, if you really want to feel its soul and transcend its history, its making, the center of its core, you visit its restaurants. Chicago has one of the highest regarded restaurant scenes in the world, but nothing tells the story, steeps you into the tradition, makes you feel everything Chicago than visiting an Italian Beef Stand. 

The Windy City’s signature dish, the one that was truly birthed here is the Italian Beef Sandwich. Deep Dish pizza (which most locals revert to only when hosting out of towners) was a modification in the 1940 of various styles of pizza from Italy. Chicago-style hot dogs, albeit extremely popular and fantastic in their own right, was an evolution from the Frankfurter in Germany. The Italian Beef would lead you to believe it has its roots in Italy, but that is not the case. The sandwich is our thing, created out of the industrious and creative spirit that our city was founded and built upon.  

In one of his last visits to Chicago, the late Anthony Bourdain said “Chicago is a big, brash, muscular, broad-shouldered mother****in’ city. Forget Deep Dish, the Italian Beef sandwich is a big soggy load of awesomeness, dripping with magical greasy beef juice. It is a signature dish any great city should be proud to boast of.”

Chicago-based fast food chain, Portillo’s Inc., famous for its Italian beef sandwiches, does a staggering $7.9 million in yearly revenue per store, surpassing competitors like Chic- Fil – A (approx. $5 million) and McDonalds (approx. $3 million).  Since going public they plan to open 600 additional stores across the United States. As Portillo’s takes Chicago’s favorite sandwich nationwide, let’s take a look at its origins, the recipe and how pizza operators can benefit from adding this classic staple to the menu.

History

The Italian Beef Sandwich dates back to the early 1900s, when many Italians immigrated to America. They found work at the Chicago Union Stock Yard and Transit Co., in the meatpacking district. More meat was processed in Chicago than anywhere in the world at the time. Workers would bring home cheaper, rougher cuts of meat. They would tenderize and simmer the meat in a broth of flavorful Italian spices. The dish became a very popular meal for Italians on holidays and special events, like famous “Peanut Weddings”. They would gather in church basements or homes to celebrate weddings, feasting on peanuts, sausage and Italian beef. 

The Godfather of Italian Beef

The godfather of the beef sandwich is Pasquale “Pat” Scala. There were many who claim they originated the sandwich, but it was Pat who made them a cultural tradition during the Great Depression. He delivered meats and homemade sausages to people’s homes by horse drawn carriage. He prepared the beef, shaved the thinnest slices, soaked the meat in its flavorful juices and served it on thick bread rolls. 

The Beef Stand

In 1938 Al Ferreri and Chris “Baba” Pacelli opened Al’s Beef. A front for their bookie operation, it was the first documented beef stand. Al and Baba would finish at their day jobs, then go open the restaurant, serving Charcoal Grilled Italian Sausages and Italian Beef sandwiches in the front and hosting card games and sports betting in the back. Eventually the restaurant became so successful they dropped the bookie operations. Others saw their success and beef stands started popping up across the city.

The composition of a Beef Sandwich Bread. The most important element is the bread. French bread is the best — it absorbs the beef juice and holds the ingredients together. If the bread falls apart, the sandwich is ruined! So a sturdy bread is a must!

Beef. Top sirloin or bottom round are great options. Slow cooked, then sliced paper thin (or shredded). 

Peppers. Hot pickled giardiniera peppers are a must. The other option are “sweet peppers”, which are bell peppers sliced, oven roasted with olive oil, salt, pepper and a little oregano.

Ways to order a Beef 

Dry. The beef is pulled from the juice, most of the juice drips off and is placed in the bread. 

Wet. The beef is pulled from the juice and immediately placed in the bread, leaving the beef “wet”. Another spoonful is added to the top after this step.

Dipped. The beef is pulled from the juice, placed in the bread and the sandwich is then dipped into the beef juice, making it soggy and delicious. 

While many top Italian beef restaurants in the city use recipes passed down for generations and even roast their own beef, most pizzerias use heat and serve products. The thin sliced vacuum sealed beef comes in cases of 10 pounds with one gallon of beef gravy and is available through most distributors. Jim Buonavolanto, of Chicago Authentic Brands, recommends heating the gravy to about 170 F. It can be held throughout the day in a steam table. When needed, drop in your sliced beef, and let it soak for a minimum of three minutes, maximum 30 minutes. 

It’s easy to see why most pizzerias in Chicago have Italian beef on the menu. It’s a simple, delicious and fast item with a three-week shelf life. Chicago based national chains Rosati’s and Giordano’s carry the item on their menus all across the country.  

All pizzerias should add Italian beef to their toppings list. Although chicken and pork toppings are very popular in the industry, beef toppings are scarce. Some places will have ground beef, hamburger (which may contain soy), or meatballs (some pizzeria’s fail to mention that majority of meatballs distributed contain pork as well). Italian beef is a great option to round off your topping menu and offer a great tasting protein that meets religious and cultural dietary requisites. This can be an easy upcharge, as most customers will understand it is premium meat. 

There are two ways to incorporate Italian beef on pizza. One way is to cook the pizza completely, soak the beef in gravy and apply to the pizza. The other is to place the beef on the pizza prior to cooking, without dunking in gravy. Both ways are delicious, but I prefer cooking the beef on the pizza with a side of beef gravy. The full flavor of the meat bakes in the pizza, and the crispiness gives great crunch and texture. 

One of our most popular pizzas at Bacci Pizzeria is the “Old School Chicago.” It has Italian Beef, bulk Italian sausage, hot giardiniera, sweet peppers and a sprinkle of Romano cheese, peppers, a sprinkle of oregano and Romano cheese, and is served with a side of beef gravy to dip or pour on the pizza.

Pasquale Di Diana  is the owner of Bacci in Chicago, IL

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The Burrata Obsession https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/the-burrata-obsession/ Sat, 01 Jan 2022 18:05:03 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/?post_type=topics&p=140770 Burrata — how to add this simple, yet lavish ingredient to your menu What’s better than house-made fresh mozzarella? Homemade fresh mozzarella filled with cream. That’s right, I’m talking about burrata. The creamy, rich, silky smooth cow’s milk cheese that is popping up on pizzeria menus all over. Burrata is such a fantastic ingredient because […]

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Burrata — how to add this simple, yet lavish ingredient to your menu

What’s better than house-made fresh mozzarella? Homemade fresh mozzarella filled with cream. That’s right, I’m talking about burrata. The creamy, rich, silky smooth cow’s milk cheese that is popping up on pizzeria menus all over. Burrata is such a fantastic ingredient because it is such a simple, rich accent to almost any pizza or side dish. It can be the star of the show or round out all of the other toppings. You can make it yourself or buy it from your distributors.

Burrata, meaning “buttery” in Italian, originated in the Apulia region. It is made from cheese curds that are stretched into balls and filled with cream and cheese shreds called Stracciatella. It is typically made with cow’s milk, but you can also find a buffalo milk version. The result being a bit tangier. While you used to mainly see this cheese on Italian style pizzeria menus, such as Neapolitan or Roman, it has made its way onto almost every type of pizza these days. I think one of the most Instagrammed pizza combinations last year was pepperoni, burrata and hot honey. This appeared on everything from Detroit to New York to Sicilian styles. 

Stracciatella on its own is fantastic. It is also a great way to mimic the flavor and texture of burrata if you are trying to cut costs or want to make your own but want to simplify the process. Stracciatella means “rag,” from the Italian word “strattore” (to stretch) and describes the action to make the cheese as well as the way it looks. If you want to use the whole burrata ball but are looking for a way to use less on each pizza, you can pre-chop it and portion. So instead of putting an entire ball of cheese on each pizza you can evenly distribute it with each piece containing both the denser outer shell and the creamy interior. 

To sauce or not to sauce, that is the question when it comes to burrata pies. While I tend to lean towards white pies when using burrata, I’ve seen an equal number of red sauced pies with burrata. Depending on when you add the cheese might determine if you sauce the pie or not. Some people strictly use burrata as a post-bake pizza topping but I would argue that it also has a place as a topping that can be cooked. When baked, the texture of burrata is completely transformed. While it keeps its creamy richness, the cheese loses its structure and melds with all of the other flavors on the pie. Think puddles of cream dotting your pizza. 

While many specialty cheeses have distinct flavors that they pair with, burrata is more versatile. 

You can do sweet or savory combinations. It goes great with fruit, cured meats, roasted vegetable, sauces and pestos. For example, we do a pie called the PB&AJ (prosciutto, burrata, arugula and jam). The creaminess of the burrata really rounds out the salty sweetness of the rest of the pizza. Laura Meyer, Nicole Bean and I made a Roman-style pizza with burrata, mortadella, pistachio pesto and honey for the Las Vegas Pizza Festival a few years ago that was a total flavor bomb. Some other great combinations include:

  • peaches, burrata and arugula
  • prosciutto, burrata and basil
  • wild mushroom, burrata and thyme
  • heirloom tomatoes, burrata and basil
  • winter squash, burrata, fried sage leaves and toasted pumpkin seeds
  • rainbow chard, burrata, pomegranate seeds and balsamic
  • Calabrese salumi, burrata, chili oil and basil

If you do make it in house, it gives you the flexibility to decide what size to make it as well as if you want to flavor it. Roberto Caporuscio, of Keste in New York City, makes one of the best burratas I’ve had. He serves it on top of a simple pizza consisting of grape tomatoes, basil and extra virgin olive oil. It’s like a Margherita on crack, if you will. The pie arrives hot out of the oven with the perfectly white oval on top. As you cut into it, the fresh cream oozes out of the cheese and onto the pie. I haven’t had the pie in about 10 years, and I still dream about it. Caporuscio also does a truffle version where he infuses the cheese with the fungi.  

burrata appetizerBurrata isn’t just great on pizza though. It is fantastic as an appetizer, on a salad or in pasta. I’m a big fan of highlighting simple ingredients and burrata is the perfect way to do that all year round. You can nestle it in a pile of thinly sliced prosciutto accompanied with seasonal fruit and herbs and drizzle it with a really good quality extra virgin olive oil. Serve it with homemade focaccia and a sprinkle of sea salt. Instead of topping a salad with chicken or fish, offer a ball of burrata as an up charge. The same can go for pasta. Lately I’ve seen a lot of baked burrata on pizzeria menus. It’s an easy dish to make with ingredients that you have on hand. Either cook the burrata with marinara, vodka, pesto or any other sauce of your choice until it is nice and bubbly, drizzle with a good extra virgin olive oil and serve with some toasted crusty bread. 

As you can see, there really is no wrong way to eat burrata. It is the perfect addition to almost any pizza and can transform a lackluster pie into something really special. 

 

Butternut Squash Burrata Pie (AKA Butternut Bae)

Get the Butternut Squash Burrata Pie recipe

Audrey Kelly is the owner and pizzaiola at Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, CO.

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Warm up your winter menu with easy, low-cost soups https://pizzatoday.com/topics/dough-production-development/warm-up-your-winter-menu-with-easy-low-cost-soups/ Mon, 01 Nov 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/warm-up-your-winter-menu-with-easy-low-cost-soups/ Easy, low-cost soups for winter menus I love soup. Always have. As a young child my winters were filled with my mother’s homemade chili and vegetable soup. Chicken noodle soup from grandma when you were sick. Taco soup in the fall. Tomato soup with a grilled cheese sandwich for lunch.  Comfort.  That’s the word that […]

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Easy, low-cost soups for winter menus

I love soup. Always have. As a young child my winters were filled with my mother’s homemade chili and vegetable soup. Chicken noodle soup from grandma when you were sick. Taco soup in the fall. Tomato soup with a grilled cheese sandwich for lunch. 

Comfort. 

That’s the word that comes to mind when I think of soup. And that’s an image I want to see conveyed on fall and winter menus. Now that we’re in the heart of fall and winter is on its way, is there really a good reason to not offer a soup of the day or to give a handful of soups coveted space on your lunch menu? 

If you’re strictly pizza, believe me I get it. But if you’re open for lunch and have a full menu, soup makes so much sense. It’s inexpensive to produce, easy to make and keep, and (much like pizza) easily customized to accommodate vegetarian and meat-loving palates alike. Plus, did I mention the comfort factor? 

When talking soup in a pizzeria/Italian restaurant setting, minestrone always comes to mind. It’s flavorful, difficult to mess up and popular. But we’ve published so many minestrone recipes over the years that all you really need to do to find a good one is visit PizzaToday.com. Let’s branch out a little and look at some other winners. 

Nothing screams “autumn” like pumpkin. Just look around you right now at the fall decorations. Whether still left over from Halloween, or used in Thanksgiving cornucopias and décor, chances are you spotted a pumpkin somewhere today while moving around your town.  

So, let’s give the season what it demands — a pumpkin soup. 

 The Smashed Pumpkin 

 Get The Smashed Pumpkin soup recipe. 

Roasted Garlic Soup 

For many years Jeffrey Freehof was a contributor to Pizza Today. Though he’s now out of the pizza business, “Chef Jeff” created many wonderful recipes for us during his tenure. One of them — Roasted Garlic Soup — deserves your attention this fall as you consider your soup lineup.

Get the Roasted Garlic Soup recipe.

One of my go-to soups this time of year was originally submitted to us for a recipe booklet we published many years ago. To this day it remains a favorite. This recipe was given to us by George Hadjis of Oggi’s Pizza in San Clemente, California. 

Oggi’s Diablo
Chicken Tortilla Soup 

Get the Oggi’s Diablo Chicken Tortilla Soup recipe.

JEREMY WHITE  is Editor-in-Chief of Pizza Today.

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Man on the Street: The Future is Plant Based https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-the-future-is-plant-based/ Fri, 01 Oct 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/man-on-the-street-the-future-is-plant-based/ Back in May, one of the most lavish restaurants in the world announced its decision to switch to a plant-based menu. Eleven Madison Park has four stars from the New York Times and three stars from the Michelin guide, which they’ve earned by serving decadent meat, seafood and poultry dishes since opening in 1998. That’s […]

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vegan pepperoni slice, plant based pizza

Back in May, one of the most lavish restaurants in the world announced its decision to switch to a plant-based menu. Eleven Madison Park has four stars from the New York Times and three stars from the Michelin guide, which they’ve earned by serving decadent meat, seafood and poultry dishes since opening in 1998. That’s all changing now and it’s a big deal. Other restaurants are going to follow their lead and new businesses will open with plant-based menus thanks to the gigantic splash initiated by the Eleven Madison Park announcement. If you haven’t noticed, it’s already happening in pizza. 

Scott Wiener Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Scott Wiener
Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Everyone I’ve spoken with who attended this year’s Pizza Expo agrees that the number one trend among exhibitors was the explosion of plant-based products. These companies showed up in force and confirmed that there’s strong demand in the pizza market for dairy-free and meat-free ingredients. The biggest clue that this trend is becoming mainstream is the fact that even companies focused on meat products have started launching brands focused on plant-based alternatives. 

Pizzerias like Pizza Head in St. Louis is already meat-free and owner Scott Sandler’s Pizza Expo demonstrations about making cheese substitutes from nuts have become a hit. Sizzle Pie in Portland, Oregon, has built a concept around offering three meat, three vegetarian and three plant-based pizzas by the slice at all times. Even in the “traditional” pizza stronghold of NYC we have two locations of the popular Screamer’s Pizzeria, which stocks no animal products. That means no mozzarella and no pepperoni. None. 

Part of me thinks this dietary change is happening because of subtle rebranding. What we now refer to as “plant-based” is essentially what we used to call “vegan.” When we use “plant-based,” we focus on what’s being featured rather than what’s been removed. Veganism is more than just a dietary decision, it’s a philosophy. A vegan lifestyle prohibits animal products in favor of environmentalism, animal welfare, and social responsibility. “Vegan” carries some heavy baggage, which is why I see “plant-based” as being more inclusive. The implication is that you can eat plant-based dishes without adopting the political identity that comes with veganism.

I’m excited about the growth of this segment because it means we’ll be seeing more high-quality products. It used to be the case that the few non-dairy cheeses left much to be desired in terms of melt, elasticity and reheatability, but those issues are finally being addressed. Plant-based meat substitutes have already made a big splash, showing up on menus at both independent and national chains. 

Whether or not you adhere to the vegan philosophy, it’s undeniable that plant-based diets are more sustainable, more environmentally friendly and healthier than our current food supply industry. There’s some real momentum in these products and that means it’s likely you already have interested customers. 

If you’re interested in dabbling in the plant-based world, look no further than the simplest pizza on the planet, the Pizza Marinara. Just top your dough with crushed tomato, oregano, garlic and olive oil and you have one of the tastiest pizzas imaginable. And it’s already vegan. Or plant-based. Whatever you want to call it, it’s delicious.

SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org  Instagram: @scottspizzatours

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Stuffed Shells are Back! https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/stuffed-shells-are-back/ Fri, 01 Oct 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/stuffed-shells-are-back/ The Right Stuff If stuffed shells were automobiles, they would be a flock of big, bright pink SUVs driving around town. In any restaurant, the delivery of this oversized, stuffed and sauced pasta is just as awesome a sight and usually followed by smiling faces full of wonderment. Putting this menu item into your restaurant […]

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stuffed shells, mushroom manicotti

The Right Stuff

If stuffed shells were automobiles, they would be a flock of big, bright pink SUVs driving around town. In any restaurant, the delivery of this oversized, stuffed and sauced pasta is just as awesome a sight and usually followed by smiling faces full of wonderment. Putting this menu item into your restaurant repertoire adds that big “wow” factor but many questions need to be answered. Do I par cook the shells for fast service? Do I keep them filled or fill as ordered? How do I keep the shells from cracking or ripping when cooked? Would they sell well? What kind of stuff shell should I serve? To start, lets look at the history of stuffed shells.

Cooks and chefs in the old Italy didn’t make pasta to impress customers. Instead, each pasta shape and style were made with purpose. Some were made for meat sauces, and others made for soups and still others with more folds and grooves to accommodate light sauces. In Tuscany, the wide pappardelle were made to stand up to hearty meat sauces where the cavatelli, from Calabria, holds chunky sauces in its folded nooks. There are pastas shaped for the making of a single dish like lasagna, whose roots can be traced back to Naples in the Middle Ages and manicotti, which was originally made with crepes and made to serve with traditional Bolognese and béchamel sauces.

Snail Trail

In 1875, Francesco Bottene invented the Bigolaro, or “Torchio,” a press that extruded thick spaghetti, rigatoni and eventually tagliatelle through a brass die. This enabled the making of pasta to spread throughout the Italian countryside. It also brought about other extruder inventions to make larger shapes like shells and cylinders. Here are some large shell-shaped pastas in different regions.

Conchiglie is shaped like a conch shell and has 3 sizes. The small Conchigliette, the medium Conchiglie and the Large Conchiglioni which was made for stuffing. The smaller shells are perfect for small, chopped salads and the larger and medium shells are used with Pasta e Fagioli Verde. 

Caccavelle is a giant shell. In fact, this name translates to “pot” in Neapolitan dialect and is made by an artisan pasta factory in Gragnano, Naples. It looks like a squared pot with two small ears and is known as the largest pasta in the world weighing in at 50 grams. These monsters are usually made “alla Sorrentina’ and filled with tomato sauce, mozzarella, minced meat and ricotta.

Lumaconi has been made in the small town of Gragano, Italy since the 16th century. They are usually filled with minced meat, ricotta and béchamel but many versions include spinach, chicory, tomato and red peppers.

Shell Shocked

Shelled pasta does take time. That is the reason that most stuffed shells in Italy are made on weekends, family holidays and holy days where people have more time to prepare them. Almost all large shell recipes call for boiling the pasta ahead of time for 8 to 12 minutes.

Ripping: Some shelled pastas can get caught in the fast-bubbling pot upside down. This puts pressure on the sides of the shells and will produce small or large rips down the sides. This occurs with manicotti also when the ends of the tube get smashed against the bottom or sides of the pan.

Cooling: Make sure to quickly cool the pasta shells. And, unlike other pastas which benefit from the small starch coating that clings to the sides of the pasta and thickens the waiting sauce, large shells and tubes are much better rinsed under cool running water. This may sound sacrilegious in pasta circles, but this pasta cannot stick to each other, or it will rip. Some chefs even spray or brush with extra virgin to keep the shells from sticking to each other before filling. 

Filling Station

Stuffed shells are such great canvas for filling that many different proteins and vegetables are perfect. There are some practical realities about the size and the way people will eat the large shells which preclude the way they have been prepared in the past.

Cheeses: Ricotta is usually king in stuffed shells. Pairing with cooked onion and spinach is a classic. Aged mozzarella is better than fresh because of a thicker, chewier bake that stays in the shells. Cheeses like Taleggio, Brie, mascarpone and Bel Paese will drain right out of cylinders and shells because of their water-like melt. Pecorino and Parmigiano completes any filling with an umami-laced flavor that compliments every meat and vegetable. 

Vegetables: Cooked and minced vegetables are great inside stuffed shells. Pureed potato, yam, butternut squash and acorn squash make for a savory-sweet filling with cooked sage or spinach. Sautéed arugula and chicory can add a nice punchy balance to savory fillings and cream sauces. Tomatoes can add sweetness but will break down with cooking. Many stuffed shells are baked in tomato sauce to keep the shells hot, cooked and wet, instead of drying out.

Proteins: Minced meats and meat sauces abound in traditional Italian recipes for stuffed shells. Ground beef with pork is a classic combination with minced garlic and onion that is combined with ricotta for extra creamy stuffed shells. These can be baked with cream sauces or tomato passata for brilliant results. Lately, chicken or even vegan meats can be substituted for other proteins. Many older recipes add egg to proteins and cheeses to “set” the stuffing in the shells.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Pizza Today Team sounds off on pan pizza craze https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/pizza-today-team-sounds-off-on-pan-pizza-craze/ Fri, 01 Oct 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/pizza-today-team-sounds-off-on-pan-pizza-craze/ PANdemonium: Pan Style Pizzas Pan pizza is hot right now. We are seeing an influx of a variety of pan pizzas being added to menus all over the country.  There’s no better evidence of its rise than at this year’s International Pizza Challenge at Pizza Expo where the Pizza Maker of the Year Nicolas Banker […]

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PANdemonium: Pan Style Pizzas

Pan pizza is hot right now. We are seeing an influx of a variety of pan pizzas being added to menus all over the country. 

There’s no better evidence of its rise than at this year’s International Pizza Challenge at Pizza Expo where the Pizza Maker of the Year Nicolas Banker of Upper Crust Pizza in Akron, Ohio, advanced from the Pan Division with his unique, cheesy edged rendition of a pan pizza. 

Pan pizza is often associated with the standard American pan pizza that Pizza Hut has often been credited with creating in the 1950s. But there are several pizza styles that fall into the pan category. The booming Detroit style originated in forged-steel pans commonly used for automobile parts. Classic Sicilian and Grandma pizzas are often baked on sheet pans. Chicago Deep Dish is baked in a deep-sided (usually two inches high) round pizza pan. There are other styles and variations that pizzerias have worked to perfect a pan pizza in their own unique way.

Jeremy White, Josh Keown and Denise Greer of the Pizza Today team have traveled the country for more than a decade, two decades even, trying the best pan pizzas out there and perfecting our own in the Pizza Today Test Kitchen. We put together some of the most memorable pan pizzas we’ve eaten over the years. 

Jeremy White, Editor In Chief

detroit pizza, detroit-style pizza, square pizza, sauce on topThough there are obviously a plethora of pan styles, Chicago often comes to mind first when thinking of pan pizza. Two Chicago-style pies that made an impression on me were found at The Art of Pizza in Chicago and Lefty’s Chicago Pizzeria in San Diego. Both were delicious and left me wanting to return the next time I’m in either city.

Then there’s Jeff Smokevitch’s Detroit-style pizza at Blue Pan Pizza in Denver. No visit to the Mile High City is complete without throwing down one of them! In fact, I love Smoke’s Detroit pie so much that every year at Pizza Expo Bill Oakley and myself beg him to use one of the International Pizza Challenge ovens to make us one.

Last but not least, perhaps the most mouthwatering pan pizza I’ve ever had comes from Tony’s Pizza Napoletana in San Francisco. The “Burratina di Margherita” is beautiful in its simplicity. Featuring burrata (I’m a huge fan!), cherry tomatoes, basil, olive oil and a balsamic reduction, this pizza won gold at an international competition in Lecce, Italy for good reason. I see this pizza in my dreams.

Denise Greer, Executive Editor

Three pan pizzas jump out to me. The first comes from a pizza institution in Brooklyn, New York, House of Pizza & Calzone. My trip to the treasured pizzeria was over six years ago, but I can still remember the taste and texture of the Upside Down. It’s a crowd favorite and with good reason. The memorable slice was a Sicilian style square with deceivingly light, airy and flavorful crust. The par-baked pizza was first layered with mozzarella then topped with a rich and vibrant tomato sauce and finished with grated Romano and olive oil. It was a simple pizza with a lasting impression. 

via 313, austin, texas, detroit style pizzaThe second pan pizza of special note was from our 2020 Independent Pizzeria of the Year, Via 313 in Austin, TX. Since Zane and Brandon Hunt hail from the Motor City, I just knew they would bring a dynamite Detroit pizza to Austin. There is one pizza on the menu that makes my mouth water to this day and that is The Cadillac. This pizza is inspired by Tony Gemignani, who has been a mentor to the brothers. The Cadillac is a Detroit-style pizza with that cheese crown edging the rectangular pizza. On top is gorgonzola, fig preserves, Prosciutto di Parma, Parmesan and a balsamic glaze.

We’ve made several pan pizzas in the Pizza Today Test Kitchen. One that really sticks out to me happens to be a breakfast or brunch pizza (or anytime, really) that I made a few years ago. It’s the Sriracha-Cha-Cha Scrambled Eggs and Bacon Pizza and it hits all the savory and spicy notes on one pizza. The dough had a slow rise and was par-baked. Then it was topped with cheesy and creamy scrambled eggs as the base; a blend of mozzarella, sharp cheddar and Monterey Jack cheese; Applewood smoked bacon and baked. Get the recipe at
PizzaToday.com.

Josh Keown, Creative Director

scottie's pizza parlor, portland, oregonI was never a huge fan of pan pizzas until the past few years. Maybe that’s because the industry has upped its game when it comes to the pan style. If you’re a thin and crispy guy like myself I eased into pan with Scottie Rivera’s Grandma Pie.  I’ve had the pleasure of tasting it at the International Pizza Challenge as well as Scottie’s Pizza Parlor in Portland, OR. It’s called the Defino after his grandmother’s last name. The Defino begins with a naturally leavened dough made with Pacific Northwest wheat and baked twice in a high-heat electric oven. After the bake, aged mozzarella, tomato sauce-on-top, oregano, fresh basil, Pecorino and garlic oil are added. I could have that for dinner four nights a week and have zero regrets.  

There have only been a handful of times that I’ve tasted a slice and immediately said out loud “Holy Sh*t, this is amazing.” That happened at the pre-Pizza Expo party at Pizza Rock when I had Tony Gemignani’s Detroit style ‘Red Top.’ Customarily I have a rule to eat light on the Sunday before the show, but that all went out the window after my first taste of Gemignani’s Detroit. It’s a traditional Detroit pizza cooked in a steel pan with white cheddar, Wisconsin brick cheese and butter toasted corners. The pizza is also topped with two stripes of marinara, garlic oil, Romano and oregano. Looking forward to March so I can throw my self-imposed pizza rule out the window again. 

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Bacon Pizzas: Just Add Bacon https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/bacon-pizzas-just-add-bacon/ Fri, 01 Oct 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/bacon-pizzas-just-add-bacon/ Bacon gives intense flavor, appeal to pizza I’ve always loved bacon as a pizza topping. It’s super versatile, for starters. Whether you’re loading up on meats, going the “supreme” route or working with lots of veggies, you can throw bacon into the mix without skipping a beat. Want to know a little secret? Sure, I […]

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Bacon gives intense flavor, appeal to pizza

I’ve always loved bacon as a pizza topping. It’s super versatile, for starters. Whether you’re loading up on meats, going the “supreme” route or working with lots of veggies, you can throw bacon into the mix without skipping a beat.

Want to know a little secret? Sure, I prize bacon for its versatility. But why do I really love it? Because it offers an intense flavor bomb that greatly impacts the taste of the finished product! And I’m all about flavor. I mean … who isn’t?

I also like heat. Based on the number of recipes I’ve developed or highlighted that have a spicy component to them, it will likely come as no surprise to you that one of my favorite bacon pizza combinations includes jalapeños, spicy cupped pepperoni and is finished with a drizzle of your favorite hot honey. You get salty, sweet and hot all in one, and to me that’s a truly winning proposition.

Another way I love it is on a traditional “supreme” style pizza with sausage, bell peppers and tomatoes. You can add onions and mushrooms if that’s your thing, or leave them off if it’s not. There are no rules! The only rules: do what you want; do what your customers want; do what sells.

With that in mind, get in the kitchen and experiment. Tell your kitchen staff to play around, get creative, think of combinations and tinker until you hit on something that works for your customer base. As a starting point, here are some simple-but-oh-so-tasty recipes to use as a foundation.

Purgatory Pizza

Purgatory Pig Pizza

Purgatory Pig

Get the Purgatory Pig pizza recipe.

Bacon Supreme

Get the Bacon Supreme pizza recipe.

BLT Pizza

Because bacon is so versatile, it finds itself right at home not just on red sauce pies, but also on white pizzas. From olive oil bases to carbonara to a creamy Alfredo, bacon can and will serve as a menu workhorse. So don’t be afraid to get creative as you look to expand that fall menu!

Here is a perennial fan favorite sandwich turned pizza featuring an Alfredo sauce.

BLT Pizza

Get the BLT Pizza recipe.

 

JEREMY WHITE is Editor In Chief at Pizza Today.

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Appetizer Dips: I Dip, You Dip, We Dip https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/appetizer-dips-i-dip-you-dip-we-dip/ Fri, 01 Oct 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/appetizer-dips-i-dip-you-dip-we-dip/ Increase check averages with trending appetizer dips Appetizer dips may be one of the easiest items that you can add to your appetizer menu that will result in the broadest appeal. Hungry and hangry diners will gravitate towards the instant gratification of an appetizer dip.  Start with the Appetizer Dip Basics Don’t underestimate the power […]

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Increase check averages with trending appetizer dips

Appetizer dips may be one of the easiest items that you can add to your appetizer menu that will result in the broadest appeal. Hungry and hangry diners will gravitate towards the instant gratification of an appetizer dip. 

Start with the Appetizer Dip Basics

Don’t underestimate the power of a good Italian bread and olive oil. It’s fast, delicious and pairs well with a pizza dinner. But it should match the creativity of your menu. If you rock the classics, then go traditional. If your menu offers more spice and variety, try infusing olive oil with herbs, dried chilies and fruit peels. Play with different herbs and spices to create something uniquely you. It can be as simple as roasted garlic and dried Italian herbs. If focaccia is your thing, try an olive oil infused with rosemary, garlic and crushed red pepper. Give olive oil zing with lemon peels, dried basil and peppercorns. Just remember, the dipping oil you server is only as good as the quality of olive oil you buy, so go for the good stuff.

Capitalize on your strength: cheese

As we travel the country visiting pizzerias, there is one appetizer that is so impressive that it sparks “ohhs” and “ahhs” from the Pizza Today team: burrata. While technically not a dip, once the mozzarella is cut and the cream spreads across the plate, the dipping begins. A burrata appetizer is simplicity at its finest. It can be plated with a drizzle of high-quality extra virgin olive oil and cracked black pepper, served with a beautiful Italian baguette, focaccia or crostini. It’s fine dining finesse that is a perfect compliment to craft pizza.

Want to style burrata even more? Infuse your olive oil with herbs or garlic. Accompany the burrata with roasted cherry peppers or sliced Roma tomatoes, basil and a drizzle of balsamic reduction and EVOO to create a burrata caprese. 

You’ve seen the TikTok craze of whipped feta and goat cheese. People love it. It’s easy to make and a good base to give it your own spin.

Is your appetizer menu more of a bar and grill style? Then you can’t go wrong with a queso or guacamole. Or why not combine the two to create a loaded or extreme queso? Mix diced avocado, tomato, red onion, cilantro, salt, pepper and lime in a bowl and add it to the queso. If you menu chorizo, offer it as an add-on. 

Give the people what they want: The Classics

Spinach and artichoke dip and Buffalo chicken dip still sell well on pizzeria menus. Give them an update by incorporating some trending ingredients. Poblano pepper is hot right now. Roast poblanos and add them to your dip. Everything is better with bacon, right? Try that version. 

Blue cheese is standard in Buffalo chicken dip. Change it up with a different cheese — feta, stilton, gorgonzola or a spiced cheddar. 

Here are two recipes to play with. See how you can vary them to give them your own twist:

 

Roasted Poblano Bacon Spin Dip

Get the Roasted Poblano Bacon Spin Dip recipe.

 

GORGEOUS Buffalo Chicken Dip

Get the GORGEOUS Buffalo Chicken Dip recipe.

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Cheese Pairing Pizzas: Cheese, Pleeeeze https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/cheese-pairing-pizzas-cheese-pleeeeze/ Wed, 01 Sep 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/cheese-pairing-pizzas-cheese-pleeeeze/ Get creative with a quintessential element of the holy trinity of pizza Whenever I go to a new pizzeria, the first thing I order is a classic cheese slice or pie. Not only is it my daily go-to slice, but it is also how I determine just how a place measures up. In my mind, […]

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Summer Corn Pie

Get creative with a quintessential element of the holy trinity of pizza

Whenever I go to a new pizzeria, the first thing I order is a classic cheese slice or pie. Not only is it my daily go-to slice, but it is also how I determine just how a place measures up. In my mind, if you can’t get the basics right, there isn’t a very good foundation to be creative with. The mozzarella, and if you’re getting fancy, Pecorino or Parmigiano Reggiano that a pizzeria chooses says a lot about them. Once you do master your perfect plain slice, there are so many options to explore with cheese. 

The type of cheese you decide to use can really make or break a pizza. It can add tons flavor and texture depending on what direction you want to take. Certain cheeses, such as ricotta, can be paired with a wide range of things. It’s creamy, light texture is a fantastic vehicle for everything from seasonal fruits and greens to garlic, caramelized onions, olives and salty meats. Then there are cheeses with more distinct flavors like the blue veined variety. They pair great with sweet or slightly salty things. Think prosciutto, dried cherries and fig jams. Here are a few of my current favorite pies:

  • Stracciatella, mozzarella, peaches, arugula, prosciutto and extra virgin olive oil
  • Roquefort, mozzarella, honey and pistachios with fresh flowers
  • Cotija, mozzarella, Anaheim green chiles, fresh corn, red onion and cilantro
  • Manchego, mozzarella, Iberico ham and olives
  • Ricotta, spinach, garlic, olive oil, basil, mozzarella, Pecorino and Castelveltrano olives

Before deciding on a cheese to use, it’s important to understand what makes each type of cheese unique. Moisture levels play an important role since cheese is categorized by its firmness. Higher moisture content results in a softer cheese and lower moisture content results in a firmer, densely packed cheese. While there are thousands of types of cheese, they can be broken down into six categories: fresh cheese, soft cheese, semi-soft cheese, semi-firm cheese, hard cheese and blue-veined cheese. 

A few important things to keep in mind when choosing a cheese:

• Type of milk. Milk is always the base of cheese but what animal it comes from drastically changes the flavor of it. Cow’s milk tends to have a creamy, sweet flavor and is usually the mildest. Sheep’s milk is tangier and grassy, and goat’s milk has a gamey flavor to it without the buttery sweetness of cow’s milk. 

• Aging. Depending on how long cheese is aged can radically change its flavor. A perfect example is Parmigiano Reggiano. While all true DOP versions of this cheese have a sharp, complex flavor, a 12-month Parmigiano Reggiano will be lighter in flavor and smoother in texture than a 36-month-old wheel. The longer it’s aged the more intense the favor and more granular the texture becomes. 

• Country of Origin. Many cheeses can only bear a certain name if they are produced in a certain region using strictly controlled methods. Manchego is a good example of this. It is produced from the milk of the Manchego sheep in La Mancha wilderness of Central Spain. 

• Best Uses. Especially when it comes to pizza, I like to use different cheeses at different stages making a pie. Certain ones are fantastic base cheese and others the perfect finishers. 

Deciding when to add a cheese will also affect how it interacts with other ingredients. If you want the flavors to meld with your base, then add them before the pie goes in the oven. However, if you’re looking to have them round out the pizza or shine on their own, add them after they come out of the oven. One of my favorite finishing cheeses is Stracciatella. I love this post-bake because you can really discern the creamy, rich flavor and texture as opposed to adding it before where those elements are simply baked out. Another is Piave. Piave is an Italian cow’s milk cheese kind of similar to Parmigiano Reggiano but with a smoother, nutty flavor. Pecorino is also a great finisher. I know a lot of pizza makers who finish every single pizza with this hard cheese. It rounds out the pizza and adds a little sharp flavor that perks your taste buds and combines really well with tomato sauce. Then there are some cheeses which go great at any stage: Gorgonzola, goat cheese, ricotta and feta.

So, what are great base cheeses? Mozzarella is of course my top pick. Not only because it is the classic pizza cheese, but a mozzarella offers up the perfect flavor and texture to build upon. It is creamy with a slight hit of saltiness that allows you to build upon without getting in the way of other more dominant flavors. With mozzarella as a base, you can make everything from a Street Corn Pie to S’mores Dessert Pizza. 

When choosing a mozzarella for your base there are a few different options. You can go with straight up whole milk, my personal preference. Whole milk mozzarella offers a rich, creamy mouth feel with a little extra grease. Personally, I think it bakes better on the pizza and I love how it mixes with our sauce. Part skim has a lower butterfat content, melts evenly and has a fantastic stretch. So, if you’re looking for the Insta-worthy cheese pull, part-skim is for you. Then there is what a lot of cheese companies identify as East Coast blend which is comprised of 50 percent whole milk and
50 percent part-skim. 

Blends are also a great option. Some of the more popular are mozzarella and provolone, mozzarella and Asiago, and mozzarella and cheddar. Different regional pizza styles use specific base cheeses or blends which will change the base flavor profile. 

Detroit pizza uses Wisconsin Brick cheese. It is a semi-soft cheese with a high fat content that is similar to cheddar with a mild flavor. Coal-fired or New Haven-style pizza traditionally uses dry mozzarella. On St. Louis style pies, it is typical to find Provel, which is a processed white cheese consisting of cheddar, Swiss and provolone. Neapolitan pizza is made with fresh mozzarella or Buffalo mozzarella. 

As you can see, it’s always fun to experiment outside of your comfort zone. Find whatever base cheese you love and build your pizza from there. You have countless options. Don’t be afraid to reach out to local cheese makers, it’s most likely just as good as any imported cheese depending on what you’re looking for and where you’re located. 

 

Summer Corn Pie

This pizza features Cotija cheese, which is a Mexican cow’s milk cheese. It is crumbly, salty, moist and very addictive.

Get the Summer Corn Pizza recipe.

 

Audrey Kelly is the owner and pizzaiola at Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, CO.

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Desserts that Sell https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/desserts-that-sell/ Wed, 01 Sep 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/desserts-that-sell/ The Best Desserts Rarely Sell Themselves My position on desserts is simple: what we serve our guests has to be outstanding, it has to be in line with our brand, and it has to be high quality. If we don’t make it in-house, then we partner with those suppliers who have as much passion about […]

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The Best Desserts Rarely Sell Themselves

My position on desserts is simple: what we serve our guests has to be outstanding, it has to be in line with our brand, and it has to be high quality. If we don’t make it in-house, then we partner with those suppliers who have as much passion about their craft as we do. So, if we bring in someone else’s cheesecake, it is one of the best cheesecakes we can buy.

Whether you are going to spend extra to bring in high-quality desserts, or make them in-house, remember that we are visual creatures — we eat with our eyes first. If your guest is expecting “giant New York” cheesecake and your server presents a slice of shriveled up, dried out cheesecake that they ripped out of the box, with a big ol’ thumbprint and a chunk missing out of it, served on a tired looking plate … Well, you get the picture. The delivery is just as important as the quality of what we are serving.

Dessert is special, it’s a treat. Your guests are already full from a delicious dinner, so how do you get them to justify those additional calories? First you have to catch their attention. Eye catching desserts sell. You don’t want them to regret those extra calories, so that tiramisu must be the best tiramisu they’ve ever had. After all, it’s about how we make people feel that leaves a lasting impression.

That being said, even the best desserts rarely sell themselves. You can have the best dessert menu around, but if your servers take the ‘vending machine’ approach and bring only what your guests ask for, your dessert sales will struggle. Train your servers and call takers to make suggestions, and to enhance the guest experience. How many times have you heard a server say, “do you want dessert” or “did y’all save room for dessert?” Those questions kill me. How un-inspiring, and really ineffective. What do you mean? What do you have? What’s your favorite desert here?

How about, “we have the best tiramisu that I have ever had, would you like a slice? And how about a latte to go with that?”

Most restaurants call this upselling. We call it enhancing the guest experience. Your servers shouldn’t be like a sleazy used car salesman, trying to increase their PPA by selling your guests something they don’t want or need. Instead, look at it from the perspective that you want your guests to have the best experience possible. And what better way than to help educate them on a dessert that they may enjoy or turn them on to a menu item they may not even know about?

It’s all about strategy! Our servers are also trained to come by mid meal and remind our guests to save room for “our award-winning bread pudding.” They also mention that it takes an extra 15 minutes to prepare. This peaks guest interest in the dessert, conveys that the dessert is special, and that it’s made fresh and is not sitting in a hot well.

Servers also strategically pre-bus their tables before bringing the dessert menu. Dirty dishes are a reminder of how many calories you’ve just consumed. We want to minimize buyer’s remorse. Remove the evidence as quickly as possible and you’ll probably get them to bite – pun intended! If you don’t catch your guest before they have to loosen their belt, offer them a dessert ‘to-go’ to enjoy later. Remember, though, product quality and guest experience are still paramount. Don’t offer a takeout dessert that doesn’t travel well. In our case, bread pudding is best when it is fresh, so we offer it take-and-bake style with heating directions.

Your servers and call takers are the ambassadors of your brand and know your menu better than anyone else. We have a server who can sell us out of bread pudding every shift. She also is aware that our bread pudding takes 15 minutes to prepare, so she will switch her focus to cannoli or send them with something to go if we are on a long wait at the door.

I also feel that a good dessert menu should be a blend of ‘expected’ desserts along with desserts that are unique to you. Those unique desserts become one of your differentiators, what sets you apart from the operator down the street.

For us giant New York cheesecake, chocolate-dipped and traditional cannoli, tiramisu and gelato are ‘staples’ in an Italian restaurant, but then we have our own style of bread pudding, house-made cinnaknots, specialty cheesecakes and spumoni ice cream. All of which are unique to us in our market.

Spumoni ice cream is a house favorite, and we give it away! While you can find Spumoni in just about any Italian restaurant in New York and New Jersey, it’s not as common in Northern Colorado, so we celebrate birthdays and anniversaries with a complimentary scoop of Spumoni ice cream, on a decorated plate, with a song from our team. This has turned on many guests to this traditional Italian dessert and they order it the next time they visit!

As for our award-winning bread pudding, it’s not the typical gut bomb bread pudding, with raisins and a dense texture. This is our own spin on bread pudding, using toasted Italian bread and a Grand Marnier cream sauce, it’s light and fluffy and comes out in a sizzling cast iron skillet and is a showstopper. It really sets us apart and is kind of our hook!

Cross utilization of ingredients, whenever possible, keeps your inventory team and your bookkeeper happy and is always a best practice. So, we make our signature bread pudding and cinnaknots with ingredients already stocked. Cinnaknots are our fresh (un)garlicked knots baked in butter, then dredged in a cinnamon-sugar mixture, and served with our house-made cream cheese icing. They are unique to us and easy to make utilizing ingredients we already have in-house.

In the end, there isn’t a silver bullet to selling desserts, but rather a multifaceted approach. It is a combination of quality products, a well-trained team, a little strategy and lots of hospitality.

 

Wholly Stromboli’s Cinnaknots

Get the Wholly Stromboli’s Cinnaknots recipe.

MELISSA RICKMAN is co-founder of Wholly Stromboli in Fort Lupton, Colorado, and member of the World Pizza Champions.

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Non-alcoholic Beverages on the Menu: Zero Proof https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/non-alcoholic-beverages-on-the-menu-zero-proof/ Wed, 01 Sep 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/non-alcoholic-beverages-on-the-menu-zero-proof/ Craft pizza and a non-alcoholic beverage, a perfect pairing Non-alcoholic beverages have come a long way from the Shirley Temple days. Today’s alcohol-free refreshment menus are as diverse, creative and artisan as pizza menus. Whether you have a takeout location or dine-in restaurant with a full bar, you can take advantage of the new wave […]

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Craft pizza and a non-alcoholic beverage, a perfect pairing

Non-alcoholic beverages have come a long way from the Shirley Temple days. Today’s alcohol-free refreshment menus are as diverse, creative and artisan as pizza menus.

Whether you have a takeout location or dine-in restaurant with a full bar, you can take advantage of the new wave of beverage consumers. 

First, let’s take a look at what’s happening in the beverage industry. IBIS World reports that pre capita soft drink consumption has fallen ever since it peaked in the late 1990s. With no other options, this leaves these consumers to order just water and a restaurant with a missed sales opportunity. 

The National Restaurant Association has been on the pulse of the trend with its What’s Hot list. NRA highlights Kombucha, aqua frescas and boba and bubble teas as trending non-alcoholic beverages.

In fact, sparkling water is among the fastest growing segments of the beverage industry, according to the State of the Beverage Industry. It’s a $3.46 billion market, the report details.

Sugary drinks have received a bad reputation in recent years, driving more consumers to look for alternatives. Packaged Facts released its U.S. Beverage Market Outlook 2020: Grocery Shopping & Personal Consumption in the Coronavirus Era. According to the release, “Sugar’s increasingly negative image due to its impact on rising diabetes rates and childhood obesity has hurt sales of sugary beverages, especially sodas, juices, and RTD sports drinks and teas. People who want to reduce their sugar intake typically do not want sugar-free products but instead those with less sugar or those sweetened with natural, non-sugar ingredients. Public health recommendations and tax legislations are helping drive the move toward reduced or “no/less added” sugar claims. New product activity has surged for reduced sugar varieties of beverages, with manufacturers using natural sweeteners like stevia and monk fruit, real fruit, honey and erythritol.”

Armed with this information, a rush of products has hit the market, appealing to differing tastes.

Seltzers and sparkling waters might just be the simplest way to add diversity to your beverage menu. Some restaurants may choose to install carbonated water machines to be able to create their own flavored sparkling water and craft sodas. For many operators though, adding seltzers and sparkling water is handled through their established beverage distributor or restaurant wholesaler. 

Fermented teas have risen in popularity, kombucha specifically. This sweet and sour drink is made from usually black or green tea, sugar and a SCOBY (symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast). It might just be a fitting drink for pizza. Kombucha can be made or is commercially available. In many markets, there are local kombucha purveyors allowing you to apply the “buy local” philosophy to your beverage menu. 

Another easily accessible option is adding ginger beer. Often mistaken for ginger ale, this non-alcoholic drink is made from fermenting ginger and brewed with water and sugar. It has a much stronger flavor than ginger ale.

Then, there are always low-sugar juices from a variety of fruits, from apple and cranberry to Pomegranate and the popular Coconut water.

Don’t Call It a Mocktail

 Restaurants are finding huge opportunities in non-alcoholic craft cocktails. But it’s time to move away from calling them mocktails. The term can be off-putting and be a hinderance instead of a sales motivator. Come up with a term that matches your brand.

Take Proof Artisan Pizza & Pasta in Tucson, Arizona, for instance. General Manager Valarie Alvarez saw an opportunity to create innovative beverages without alcohol that align with Proof’s brand. At Proof, non-alcoholic beverages are called Zero Proof Libations. 

“The zero-proof cocktail menu came about after, as a bar manager, I noticed so many grimaces when people were only given the usual non-alcoholic choices at their table: water, tea or soda,” Alvarez says. I took inspiration from aqua frescas (a local favorite ‘fresh water’ with fruits and other ingredients added) and craft cocktails to come up with a few refreshing, delicious and beautiful drinks for anyone to enjoy. 

“They are made to be paired with pretty much anything on the menu,” she continues. “The menu is seasonal, so we use in season fruits, bitters from the bar, local gelatos and such to have different options available. You can currently get a root beer float to go with your pepperoni pizza, a tiki agenda (ginger, bitters, lemon and soda) to go with your Figlet or white pie. Some drinks are blended, some muddled, all delicious and sourced as locally as possible — something we strive for as a local small business.” 

Alvarez offers tips to pizzerias looking to add non-alcoholic cocktails to the menu. “Have fun with it and do as much R&D as possible,” she says. “Talk to your liquor reps. Mine all had great input and were helpful in finding fun bitters, cool garnishes and yummy things to add in. Get input from others too. I had regulars try ours, brought my daughter and friends in to try them too, and was pregnant at the time so I had some additional feedback there as well. We’ve made it a seasonal menu as well, allowing our bartenders to get creative, feel proud of the menu with their contributions, and not get bored with the same drinks over and over.” 

If you are a pizzeria with a full bar, adding alcohol-free cocktails can be as simple as adding some of the liquor alternatives. There are now alcohol-free bourbon, tequila, gin and others that you can stock. This gives you the opportunity to offer old-school virgin standards like Sangria, Bellini, Pina Colada and Mojito. But don’t stop there, get creative and take inspiration from your unique craft cocktails, local favorites and regional hot cocktails to create a zero-proof menu that will appeal to everyone. 

Craft non-alcoholic drinks warrant a higher price. But with that, make sure that your presentation is on point. Think about how you would present the boozy version. Glassware is key.

The market for non-alcoholic beverages is far larger than just children looking to emulate their parents’ beverage choices. Pregnant women, non-drinkers and consumers that just do not want alcohol at that moment but want the taste or social aspects of having cocktails without the effects. To go a step further, you can also market your unique non-alcoholic beverage menu during Dry January, Sober July, Dry Holiday and other local, regional and national alcohol-free trends.

DENISE GREER is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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Sweet + Savory: Explore pizza combinations that customers will crave https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/sweet-savory-explore-pizza-combinations-that-customers-will-crave/ Sun, 01 Aug 2021 04:02:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/sweet-savory-explore-pizza-combinations-that-customers-will-crave/ Wild fries dipped in a vanilla custard shake. For me, this was the most exciting part of getting to go off campus at lunch during high school. In case you’re not familiar with wild fries, they are French fries coated in a spicy batter from a local burger chain in my hometown, and they are […]

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peaches and the pig, pizza

Wild fries dipped in a vanilla custard shake. For me, this was the most exciting part of getting to go off campus at lunch during high school. In case you’re not familiar with wild fries, they are French fries coated in a spicy batter from a local burger chain in my hometown, and they are absolutely addicting. Add in a custard shake to dip them in and it’s a meal that still makes my mouth water. Really it is the sweet and savory combination that make our taste buds go crazy for this. These combinations have been popping up for years in different food groups: like bacon maple donuts, vanilla ice cream with olive oil and sea salt, and prosciutto wrapped melon. They are also becoming increasingly more popular as pizza toppings.

Building a cohesive combination is all about each ingredient complimenting and elevating the others to create an explosive, addictive flavor. While I’ve never really been a fan of the classic Hawaiian pizza, I do have a huge sweet tooth so naturally my own menu features a few different sweet and savory combinations. They are some of my favorite pizzas to create.  Our Hot Honey Disco — made with Calabrese salami, spicy honey, mushrooms and basil — is one of our most popular and a constant on the menu. Another one we are currently running is the PB&AJ: prosciutto, burrata, arugula and jam. The concentrated sweetness of the jam combined with the salty prosciutto and spicy arugula are all softened out by the creamy burrata.

But why do chocolate peanut butter pretzels make our mouths water? It’s all about flavor layering. The salt helps to enhance the presence of sugar. Our mouths contain thousands of taste cells with receptors for all five tastes: sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami. They are housed in the tiny bumps all along our tongue, called papillae. Those receptors send a signal to your brain telling it what you are about to consume. Additional sugar receptors were recently found on the tongue’s sweet taste cells that only activate when salt is present. The salt helps to sharpen a flavor while the sugar rounds out the overall effect. In other words, they work together to enhance the overall effect on our taste buds. Consuming sugar releases dopamine, which not only makes us crave more but makes us happy. Salt is one of the most addictive flavors after sugar, so it just makes sense that we would crave them together.

While every pizzeria has its own unique pies, some embrace sweet and savory combinations more than others. PizzaLeah in Windsor, California, always has a few fantastic ones. The number one selling pizza at the shop is The Grey Beard, comprised of red sauce, mozzarella, fontina, Italian sausage, Calabrian peppers, hot honey & orange zest. Owner and executive pizza maker, Leah Scurto, says that she,   “originally created that pizza for a competition in December and composed it around candied orange peels to be festive for the holidays. It really hits all the notes. Sweet, savory, spicy and citric.” Another recent one included bacon, apples and blue cheese.

Hot honey is a pizza topping that seems to have exploded in the last five years. And it is popular for a good reason. The initial hit of sweetness followed by the bite of peppery heat is all smoothed out by the salty, creamy mozzarella on the pie. I’ve made my own since I opened my shop by simply combining Calabrian chili peppers with wildflower honey. However, if you don’t want to add another item to your prep list, there are plenty of options out there to buy.

Hot honey first caught my attention when I lived in New York and had it on a pie at Paulie Gee’s in Green Point, but one of the most beautiful pizza’s I’ve seen is created by Justin De Leon of Apollonia’s Pizzeria in L.A.

De Leon’s pepperoni, burrata and hot honey square is eye-catching. It is a pizza that was inspired by his photographic background. Although this is the pie that gets all of the hype at his shop, another sweet and savory pie he offers is the Eastside Classic. I am not personally as attached to the heated debate surrounding pineapple on pizza as I know a lot of people are.  For this reason, I loved his take on it because, to me, you should always look at every ingredient’s merit when creating a pizza or any other dish. The name is in reference to the Eastside of L.A. and not the East Coast, De Leon explains.  “I do make the geographic reference because of its controversial topping, the pineapple,” he says. “I’ve never been a fan of pineapple on pizza but this combination shatters that taboo. The balance of cup and char pepperoni, spicy jalapeño, garlic, bacon, onion and sweet pineapple never felt so right!”

There are a few things to keep in mind when creating sweet and savory combinations. The first thing is, don’t overdo the sweet. I like to have one key sweet flavor, whether it is fresh or dried fruit, jam, syrup, honey or agave. You want the sweetness to compliment the other flavors, not overpower them. Keep in mind it’s more like a cheese plate than dessert. The same goes for the other elements. You want the salt to enhance and bring out the other ingredients, but you don’t want a mouthful of salt. Always think about the balance of the flavors. Next, don’t be afraid to add a little spice. A kick of chilies or spicy arugula can do wonders for bringing all of the flavors together. Then there is cheese. The creaminess of cheese can round out the sharp edges and there are so many options for every combination. And of course, have fun! Don’t get stuck on one or two ingredients. You can always look at seasonal produce for inspiration. A few ideas to get you started:

  • Fresh peaches, jalapeños, prosciutto and ricotta.
  • Bacon and nutella 
  • Brussels sprouts, pancetta and honey.
  • Pear, potato and gorgonzola.
  • Guanciale, maple roasted butternut squash, serrano chilies and stracciatella.

These all will result in delicious pairings your customers will enjoy. Now I’d like to leave you with a recipe featuring summer peaches and fig. It’s a wonderful combination!

Peaches and the Pig

Get the Peaches and the Pig recipe.

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It’s Time to Start Planning your Autumn and Winter Menus https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/its-time-to-start-planning-your-autumn-and-winter-menus/ Sun, 01 Aug 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/its-time-to-start-planning-your-autumn-and-winter-menus/ Fall Guys As our independent restaurants rebound from the pandemic and creep steadily into our busy season of fall and winter, thoughts of higher priced and less desirable produce like lettuce, tomato and peppers appear on our radar. The glut of fresh herbs, onions and greens will soon be gone, but do not despair — […]

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Timballo di Orecchiette al Forno, eggplant pasta

Fall Guys

As our independent restaurants rebound from the pandemic and creep steadily into our busy season of fall and winter, thoughts of higher priced and less desirable produce like lettuce, tomato and peppers appear on our radar. The glut of fresh herbs, onions and greens will soon be gone, but do not despair — there is an array of large, delicious and profitable foods that are available if you get out and look. Fall and winter menu items are hardy, easily compatible with our existing menu-mix items and downright easy to prepare.

 

Gourd of the Rings

For centuries, the countries of Europe have endured disease, hardships and wars. The resulting lack of food and even famine necessitated a creative use of all foods (and especially fall and winter flavor profiles). Here are a few examples of items that have traditionally been prepared and harvested to get people through the cold fall and winter.

Gourds, Squash and Root Vegetables: pumpkin, butternut, acorn and delicata squashes are perfect roasted with wheat in calzone, ravioli and pies or made into hardy soups with cinnamon and nuts. Late zucchini, kohlrabi, cabbage and cauliflower as well as beetroot, parsnips, turnips, celeriac, Jerusalem artichoke and daikon radish are some of the most versatile vegetables around during winter.

Cheeses: Be it hard, aged cheeses like Gouda, manchego, Pamigiano Reggiano, compte, Romano, ricotta salata, Caciocavallo and Piave Vecchio or semi aged cheeses like fontina, Gruyere, Stilton, Swiss, gorgonzola or Morbier, they all can be paired well with pasta, pizza and winter salads alike. Adding these to a cream with wilted winter greens like spinach, chicory, leek and chard is like heaven on earth.

Grains and legumes: polenta, risotto, chickpea and its flour, cannellini beans, wheat berries of all types, masa, arso nero, peas, semolina, spelt and even edamame can adorn a plate, pizza or side dish with amazing results. This category has the most creative uses in the past centuries to produce ravioli, cannelloni, tofu, soups, focaccia, stews and tortillas.

Charcuterie: pancetta, capicola, Mortadella, Loma, Merguez sausage, Prosciutto di Parma, guanciale, Cotechino sausage, Luganega sausage and Tripe represent all the cuts from snout to tail and fish like Baccala, Stoccafisso and Bottarga exhibit the curing techniques to make fish last into the winter months.

 

Prevailing Winds

Some fall and winter items that are trending now are the result of the pandemic and people re-thinking their priorities and lifestyle choices. Others are due to the power of social media or just retreads from the 80s and 90s.

Here are some trending menu ideas: vegan and vegetarianism; mushrooms and roots; chickpeas; cooking oils like avocado, pumpkin seed, sunflower seed; milk alternatives like rice, hemp and oat milk; carbohydrate alternatives like cauliflower crust and gnocchi; lamb shank, tamales, beet slaw, crunchy Brussels sprouts, Collard greens with nut pestos; Grain bowls; pistachios, almond milk, fermenting, fermented locust bean; charcuterie boards; kombucha; ancient grains; New Zealand venison; Berkshire pork, fennel, Chicory, Butternut squash; figs, Farro; pomegranates; poke; and even hemp smoothies.

Here are a few delicious trendy Italian fall and winter menu items to consider:

  • Cazzimperio, raw carrot, celery, radish, fennel, chickory with a great extra virgin olive oil mixed with and lots of pepper.
  • Gnocci di Zucca, butternut squash
    gnocci with a sage cream sauce, grated cheese and nutmeg.
  • Fagioli con erb spontanee, cooked beans with mustard, fennel, chickory greens on toast.
  • Spaghetti with dandelion greens and and bottarga, simple tossed greens topped with shavings of the sea.
  • Pollo alla Romana, chicken cooked with a ragu of onions spicy peppers, garlic and tomato and simmered to perfection.
  • Grilled Polenta, with chicken broth, chives, Parmigiano, cooled and served with chickpeas.
  • Involtini di Vitello, Sauteed veal, sage, prosciutto and Parmigiano packets.
  • Budino di Castagne, chestnut pudding with eggs, milk, vanilla and rum.
  • Cicoria Saltata, chickory sauteed with garlic, chili pepper and extra virgin olive oil.

 

Timballo di Orecchiette al Forno

This pasta dish is an all-time favorite championed by my chef friend Giovanni di Negris while we both worked at La Primavera Restaurant in Chicago. The beauty of this dish is all in the preparation —  the assembly and baking are amazingly fast and straightforward. This traditional Puglian pasta with meat sauce sits perfectly in between the cooked rounds of eggplant with Pecorino Romano and is topped with another nod to Puglian cheese — fresh burrata.

Get the Timballo di Orecchiette al Forno recipe.

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Famous sandwiches turned pizzas https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/famous-sandwiches-turned-pizzas/ Thu, 01 Jul 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/famous-sandwiches-turned-pizzas/ Salvadore Deli Sandwiches are like artistic pizzas in the way that pizzas are like artistic sandwiches. Many combinations of wheat, protein, cheese and vegetables in famous sandwiches can turn your pizzas into best sellers by bringing wonderful flavor memories back to your customers. Everyone has a sandwich incident that bounces around in their memories. My […]

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Salvadore Deli

Sandwiches are like artistic pizzas in the way that pizzas are like artistic sandwiches. Many combinations of wheat, protein, cheese and vegetables in famous sandwiches can turn your pizzas into best sellers by bringing wonderful flavor memories back to your customers.

Everyone has a sandwich incident that bounces around in their memories. My funny memory happened when my friend and pizza champion Bruno di Fabio took me to the famous Katz’s Deli in New York City.

As I shimmied up in line, I saw the frenzied white shirted pastrami-cutters making sandwiches. The chin high counter loomed over me as I ordered a pastrami-on-rye sandwich, and I was looking forward to the monster sandwiches everyone seemed to get. Then the sandwich maker used his giant fork to place a few pitiful slices on my rye bread and onto a plate in front of me. I turned to my friend sounding too much like a child, “Hey Bruno, I wanted a good sandwich, with a pastrami pile, like everyone else is getting’”

“You idiot, you gotta tip to get a pile.” I then looked up and saw a giant tip jar with numerous bills in it and many bills sticking up as “bait” and instantly understood. The sandwich maker sternly stared at me as I pulled my wallet out and slowly placed a $5 bill in the jar. Without a word, the man grabbed the plate back and after a frenzy of slicing, placed a mountain of meat on it. Later, as I plowed through this delicious sandwich, I thought that it would make a great pizza. When I got back to Ohio, I got started planning a pastrami pizza. I could not mimic the rye crust at the time but found my way around it with rye croutons.

Thrilled Cheese

The process of making a pizza from an iconic sandwich may seem exciting and easy. The hard part comes when figuring out what I call, “The Spread.” This is reaching the flavor profile of a famous sandwich in large pizza form by manipulating the weight, flavor or bulk of the toppings.

For instance, salami does not weigh much and can be spread across the pie efficiently, whereas pastrami weighs more and may not reach your customers’ expectations of a “real” pastrami pizza. This happens with chicken, pork, steak as well as link sausages, but disappointment can be avoided by using thinner cuts of meat and/or slicing products like boneless wings thinly. Also, I have found that customers do not mind paying a little more for a “loaded” pizza if it reaches the flavor profile of a fantastic sandwich.

Other variables are sandwich flavor profiles that rely on uncooked products and/or non-melted items. Cheeses like Brie, cheddar, Gouda and sauces like mayo and mustard may burn in the oven and must be topped after the bake. Lettuce, tomato, pickles, giardiniera, seeds and salsas change their flavors, wilt and burn under heat. You may have to adapt your cut-table routine and staff training to finish pizzas if they are not used to these procedures.

Join the Club

To me, any iconic sandwich flavor profile is a masterful business step because the memory of the sandwich is already in your customers brains. I have loved making some pizzas that come from sandwiches all across the world. Here are some great combinations to try.

Pizza Ahogada: This has been a great seller for us using local pork and brisket. This mimics the Torta Ahogada (meaning “drowned sandwich”) from the Jalisco region and especially in Guadalajara where a pork sandwich is dunked in a spicy-cumin sauce. We have used a pungent provolone, onions and cilantro to make this pizza sing…” Hells bells.” (See recipe below.)

The Cubano Pizza: This pizza is as great as it is simple. The Cuban sandwich was first created in Tampa at the Columbia Restaurant. It combines ham, Genoa salami, mojo-marinated pork, Swiss cheese, pickles, and mustard. Some salamis burn and are better placed on after baking. Tossing some chips atop this pizza is a special treat.

The Reuben Pizza: We started this pizza early in 2005 with corned beef, mozzarella with shaved Swiss cheese underneath, (swiss tends to burn easily in conveyor ovens.) We then topped it with sauerkraut and thousand island dressing. It was delicious but we had a lot of customers order without sauerkraut.

Chicken Cordon Bleu: This iconic European delight is a crunchy nugget of chicken filled with ham and swiss. Our version uses a base of Dijon mustard topped with mozzarella then ham under shredded Gruyere, (expensive but worth it) then topped with local chicken and baked. After the oven, we drizzle with béchamel sauce then arugula.

Nashville Hot Chicken Pizza: The perfect pairing of super-spicy sauce made with hot sauce, cayenne, brown sugar, paprika, garlic and onion powder coats a boneless wing perfectly. This chicken can cook perfectly on a bed of provolone, feta or even Monterey Jack. After the oven, some garnish with dill pickle and a pile of coleslaw on the side is a great finishing touch.

Muffaletta Pizza: This sandwich was made famous at the Central Grocery in New Orleans and features Italian charcuteri and giardinieria with added olives, capers, roasted red peppers and minced garlic. Provolone is the accompanying cheese to the capicola, mortadella, Italian salami and/or soppressata.

 

Two Pizzas from two famous sandwiches.

The Bahn Mi Pizza

This famous sandwich relies heavily upon the crunch of crispy French bread. For this reason, a thin and crispy crust and a sprinkle of Japanese Panko breadcrumbs is a good choice. This pizza is topped with a Hoisin sauce, aged provolone, (a great fit for Asian-style pizza flavors) pulled pork topping and then baked. The beauty of this is the finish of easy pickled carrot and radishes, cilantro and pickled or fresh jalapeño.

>> Get The Bahn Mi Pizza Recipe.

 

Ahogada Pizza Bonus

Because of the same flavor profiles, this pizza can be made exactly like the Bahn Mi Pizza by only substituting the Ahogada sauce for the Hoisin. We use approximately 4 ounces of this sauce on our pizza, but you may want to use more. You may not need the jalapeño because this sauce, held under refrigeration for a few days, really gets hot!

Ahogada Sauce:

1 ½ cups dried Arbol chilies

1 can ground tomatoes

1 ¼ cup raw whole garlic cloves

¾ cup apple cider vinegar

¾ cup cumin powder

½ cup dried oregano

¼ cup salt

Grind up all ingredients with an immersion blender or blender. The dried Arbol chilies will hydrate in the sauce and release the flavor and heat.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Flavor First Pastas https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/flavor-first-pastas/ Thu, 01 Jul 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/flavor-first-pastas/ Under Promise and Over Deliver on Pasta Creating fantastic pasta is a culinary art. Perfection or getting close to perfection takes years, if not decades. However, making a solid plate of pasta is something that even the most inexperienced of chefs can pull off. When it comes to your pizzeria restaurant, creating a pasta dish […]

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Under Promise and Over Deliver on Pasta

Creating fantastic pasta is a culinary art. Perfection or getting close to perfection takes years, if not decades. However, making a solid plate of pasta is something that even the most inexperienced of chefs can pull off. When it comes to your pizzeria restaurant, creating a pasta dish that stands out, under-promises, and over-delivers, is easier than you might think. The approach will depend on whether or not you’re going for a chef-driven, single-minded restaurant or if you’re looking to have pasta dishes that intermediate-level back of house employees can execute accurately and consistently.

The key is to under-promise and over-deliver. By being a pizzeria, you’re not expected to be great at pasta. If you can make something a little bit special, it will exceed expectations. The casual customer doesn’t typically expect you to be great at both pizza and also pasta. However, with a bit of thought and preparation, you can beat the high-end Italian restaurant in your town quite easily, even at your pizzeria.

The first way to make the dish feel special is in the presentation. Namely, a decent work surface, i.e., plating. If you love what you sell right now, but it’s not landing with the customer, a solid plate with a nice fork and knife might be all it takes to make the meal feel special. A plastic plate will never provide a feeling of “special.”. Good plating will only serve to enhance your ambiance. Nothing too crazy. A solid white 10-inch plate or bowl is all it takes. This alone will help garner a higher price point your customers will be on board with.

Ingredients

Semolina flour is an essential mandate and prime ingredient for proper pasta. If you’re buying dry pasta, go with the purest pasta you can find that respects the craft of artisan pasta making. Taste test every brand you can source to root your decision in facts and not labels. Then go for shapes you haven’t seen used before. Spaghetti and fettuccini are standard and, in some markets, expected, but if you want to stand out, choose something off-kilter, especially if it’s something you love and can speak passionately about to sell it better.

For high-speed pizzerias, pre-cook and bag your pasta to take half the time from your ticket time. Avoid cooking too far, as the pasta will continue to cook once you turn the heat off. I find ice baths for hot pasta at about half the proposed cook time works best. Then once in the bag and after a few hours, it will only take about a minute dropped in boiling water to be ready for sauce. Always test to make sure it’s still al dente. Pre-portioning pasta can go awry because pasta isn’t intended to keep for days on end once cooked in a bag; if it’s older than a day and smells sour, toss it and adjust your prep pars.

Fresh Pasta

cooked pastaIf you have the means to create your own fresh pasta, it is significantly different, more unique, and overall better. I love fresh pasta. Anyone with a soul loves fresh pasta. And how cool would it be for your pizzeria to be seen selling fresh pasta dishes?

To accomplish this, you’ll need, at a minimum, a pasta sheeter and potentially a pasta extruder. A sheeter does just what it says it does, helps sheet out the pasta to make what you’ll need for lasagna, fettuccine, linguini. You can use a sheeter or a pizzeria rolling pin to create one of the easiest and most popular pasta dishes, pappardelle. Pappardelle pasta with a great alfredo sauce will rival the likes of any fine dining Italian restaurant in your town, and it’s one of the easiest dishes you could ever make.

A pasta extruder can be expensive. Also, they aren’t set and forget it machines. It will take some time to get familiar with. You will want to know as much about your machines as possible to maximize the device.

Also, knowing how to use the dies properly isn’t something you’re going to want to trust to just any employee. However, if you take the time to learn these basic items, it can be a game-changer for your brand. It will set you apart, especially if you buy some interesting dies and make some unique shapes. If you go to incredible lengths for your pasta dishes, then it’s a bad idea to overload your menu with pasta items. You don’t need to have 45, 30, or even 15 different pasta dishes. Just because you can make it, it doesn’t mean you should make it. Coming up with three to five standout and solid, memorable dishes will be more than enough for diners to sing your praises.

Sauce

There is no shortage of great tomato companies at Pizza Expo to see and taste test yourself. Great marinara is as good as the ingredients you choose. For Alfredo, you could buy a pre-packaged Alfredo powder, but that’s not something you, a person savvy enough to read this far into an article about pasta, is about to do.  You don’t have a halfway approach to your pizza dough so let’s not have a weak approach to pasta either. I say this because it’s too simple to do any other way than to make a proper alfredo from scratch. Heavy cream, garlic, butter, some Romano, and you’re there. Feel free to substitute olive oil or use both. You can buy the cloves for the fresh garlic and chop it yourself, either with a knife or a food processor. It’s just not hard enough or worth enough reward to buy pre-made garlic.

Stuffed & Layered Pasta

Buying frozen pasta is an easy alternative for most pizzerias. It takes forever to go bad, and you just need to boil it long enough not to screw it up. If you feel the need to sell ravioli but don’t have the time or culinary acumen in your kitchen to pull off fresh, frozen is your alternative. The problem with frozen is anyone can copy you. If you can buy it, your competition can buy it as well. The only thing you have to differentiate at that point is the sauce and presentation.

If you do choose to make fresh ravioli, my hat is off to you. It tastes incredible, is inherently unique, and special when a little effort is applied. It’s not easy. You’ll need to make it in small batches because it does go bad rather quickly.  If the staff member making the pasta is inexperienced, it will be high in labor cost with a big potential for product loss in failed attempts. With that said, if you can accomplish it and push it out properly on social media to create a call to action, even if it’s just a special for one night, you can make a substantial impression to your audience that your pizzeria high end.

When it comes to how to make fresh pasta and deciding what pasta is right for your restaurant, whether it’s traditional ravioli, multicolor, or any variation of the filling, do what you love. If you love mushrooms, do that. If you live for brown butter lobster ravioli, make that. If you are extruding, make the shapes you love. If Italian wedding soup done right with fresh ditalini is your thing, make that.  If you don’t like anything other than a basic cheese ravioli, then, by all means, start simple and have fun with it. Do something that you will be proud of because you’re going to because it will be a signature dish representing YOU. If you’re willing to go through the work of making fresh pasta, DO WHAT YOU LIKE, NOT WHAT YOU THINK YOUR CUSTOMER EXPECTS. Expectation = cliched.

Healthy Pasta

Another straightforward option is the pasta primavera. Choose flavorful, healthy vegetables that will attract vegans and non-vegan pasta lovers. Artichokes, plum tomatoes, squash and other seasonal vegetables you actually enjoy, can make for a high mover item. Sautee it with a no-cheese marinara, and you will have a vegan hit. Go heavy on the garlic and olive oil with proper seasoning, and you’ll have non-vegans ordering this as well.

If selling to vegans isn’t for you, I’d advise you to realize they are the fastest-growing food demo today, and they have friends and family. If a group is deciding where to eat and your restaurant has no vegan options, you are immediately out of the running. Just a few vegan items will ensure you get larger orders when dietary restrictions play a role. If you don’t believe you have a vegan clientele, you are incorrect. You do. They just don’t eat at your place because you haven’t given them options. So, start with this pasta.

Baked Pasta

Pizzeria Makeline Manicotti

The best pizzeria home run for a simple entree is baked pasta. Use your pizza oven for more than pizza and stay in your wheelhouse. A small six-inch baker bowl or foil to-go bowl with a tube or shell pasta is what you’ll need. Blend this with a marinara or a cream sauce or a mix of the two, add cheese on top, bake it like a pizza, and you are set.

Meatless baked pasta is a universal crowd favorite because it appears hearty but not overly heavy. Plus food cost is great on this item. A baked pasta done this way is ideal for catering. Now, the big boys of pizza caught on and started doing this themselves in their own baked trays a few years back. But here’s one thing that they did not do; fresh julienned or chopped basil on top. The larger chains don’t want a lot of knife work in their kitchen, but that doesn’t throw you off, now, does it? When you put fresh basil on top of a pasta that it complements, i.e., not an alfredo, it instantly shows the customer that this was made in-house and is not a cookie-cutter factory-made meal. It’s incredibly simple, but it’s true. Fresh basil, real basil, is a simple statement that resonates. Dried herbs do not. You can, by all means, use them in whatever sauce mixture you have, but the key is showing off something that could not have come in frozen. Fresh herbs will always convey that.

Whatever pasta you choose, go for flavor first, a flavor you love, with a story you’ll want to convey. Then amp up the look and presentation, and you’ll attract a customer not seeking a discount but instead a return visit.

Mike Bausch is the owner of Andolini’s Pizzeria in Tulsa, Oklahoma.

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Add gelato to your dessert menu mix https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/add-gelato-to-your-dessert-menu-mix/ Tue, 01 Jun 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/add-gelato-to-your-dessert-menu-mix/ Irresistible Indulgence here is something irresistible about gelato. Maybe it’s the smooth, soft and creamy flavor or that it doesn’t leave your palate coated in the heavy butterfat of its dessert sibling, ice cream. The demand for the popular Italian treat is growing in America. New and innovative flavors have sparked a rise in North […]

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add gelato to your dessert menu

Irresistible Indulgence

here is something irresistible about gelato. Maybe it’s the smooth, soft and creamy flavor or that it doesn’t leave your palate coated in the heavy butterfat of its dessert sibling, ice cream.

The demand for the popular Italian treat is growing in America. New and innovative flavors have sparked a rise in North America’s preference for gelato, according the ResearchAndMarkets.com’s North American Frozen Desserts Market Insights 2020-2025. And the demand continues to skyrocket.

Gelato proves to be a fitting complement to pizza. Both are meticulously crafted with culinary creativity.

What’s hot in gelato

Regardless of whether you source or make gelato in-house, let’s get down to the nitty gritty of what flavors are hot this year. We asked four operators with successful gelato programs to give us the skinny on popular gelato flavors.

Sam Hathorn, co-owner of Sam & Greg’s Pizza in Huntsville, Alabama, says, most popular flavors are simply chocolate and vanilla. That doesn’t keep Sam & Greg’s from introducing innovative flavors that sell well. “We have made some great flavors over the years — honey goat cheese, spicy hot chocolate (with cayenne), and strawberry balsamic (with vinegar),” she says. “In 2021 we have created pineapple upside down cake, peanut butter Oreo, and buttermilk pancake. My team also makes a vegan gelato from pea protein milk that is creamier than most vegan gelati.”

Pistachio and Oreo are favorites at Pupatella’s in Alexandria, Virginia.

Sarah Bruggeman, pastry chef at Pangea Kitchen in Evansville, Indiana, says, “We have found that Stracciatella, Pistachio, Salted Caramel, Mint Oreo, Biscotti Crunch and Peanut Butter Cup are Evansville’s favorites.” She warns not to shortcut the classics. “The classic Stracciatella can be described as ‘chocolate chip’ but we are not just adding chocolate chips to this base,” she says. “Stracciatella means “little shred” in Italian. So, we actually drizzle melted chocolate into the gelato, let it sit for a second to freeze the chocolate, and then turn the machine back on. The chocolate strings then break up into little irregular bits that are mixed throughout the entire gelato.”

Pistachio is another flavor where operators may look for cost savings. “Pistachio is definitely the priciest gelato that we make,” Bruggeman says. “We use 100 percent pistachios. Other places may use a combination of pistachios and almonds to help offset the cost. But you can taste the difference.”

Mike Bausch, owner of Andolini’s Pizzeria and STG Gelateria in Tulsa, Oklahoma, says, “The most popular flavors are what you’d expect – Fior Di Latte, Pistachio, Strawberry, Raspberry and Chocolate. We have 65 flavors and counting … some of our non-traditional flavors that sell well are Salted Caramel, Chocolate Cake and Lemon Biscotti. Lately, we’ve had a lot of interest in our Extra Virgin Olive Oil gelato. Since we’re making all of our bases from scratch (White Base, Yellow (Egg) Base, Chocolate Base and Sorbetto Base) we can experiment a lot. We’ve used ricotta, mascarpone, yogurt, broken cannoli shells, etc… We’re even experimenting with an “Everything Bagel” gelato right now.

Making gelato from scratch

Making gelato is similar to scratch-made ice cream, Bruggeman says. “We mix whole milk, heavy cream, sugars, dry milk powder, and a stabilizer,” she says. “We cook that base low and slow. Let it cool overnight. Next morning, we add whatever flavor we are feeling.  Mix very well. Then we turn the gelato low and slow in our gelato machine imported from Italy.”

Bausch makes gelato the old-fashioned way at STG. “We make our STG Gelato the very old-fashioned way – hot process,” he says, “meaning we blend milk, sugar and sometimes egg yolks and cook it in a pasteurizer. Much of the gelato made in America today is a mix that simply has either water or milk added to it and then is spun in a batch freezer. We chose to do it the ‘hot process’ way because we didn’t want to ever hear ‘that’s not what it tastes like in Italy’ from any of our customers and thankfully we quite often hear ‘That tastes better than in Italy.’

“Using very high-quality local milk, local fruits and importing Italian flavorings, our food cost hovers in the 23-25-percent range depending on flavor,” he continues.

Hathorn too recommends making the base from scratch even though it’s more work. “It really makes a difference in the flavor of the gelato,” she says. “(Co-owner) Greg says, ‘the base is where it’s at.’”

Gelato making logistics

Just like the pizza line, gelato requires equipment and training. Pupatella’s co-owner Anastasiya Algarme heads up its gelato program. “It is an investment,” she says. “All the equipment is Italian-made and quite pricey. The training is quite extensive, and we have designated staff members that specialize in it. It is not an exact science, so it’s important that the gelato maker develops the ‘feel’ for it.”

Gelato equipment requires both a large financial investment, as well as valuable kitchen space. “One of the biggest hurdles to starting a Gelateria is the price of equipment,” Bausch says. “Pasteurizers (roughly $20-$30K), Batch Freezers (roughly $15-25K), Blast Freezers (roughly $10-15K) and Display cases ($15-$20K) are expensive – but – they hold their value very well and generally have more than half their initial value 10 years later. There is also very good quality used equipment available.

“For anyone considering making gelato in their existing business. I’d probably start with the cold process since it has the least barriers to entry and the training / equipment is minimal,” Bausch continues. “If someone wishes to do a truly legit Gelato (like the type you’d eat in an Italian neighborhood that has no tourists) then the only way to go is ‘hot process.’”

Hathorn was able to find value. “We got our equipment secondhand when we started out,” she says. “It is much cheaper to take a gently used gelato freezer off someone’s hands than to buy new.”

Bausch, Hathorn and Bruggeman also went through in-depth training.

“We were trained in Italy, use Italian equipment, Italian ingredients and Italian processes,” Bausch says. “We certify all of our Gelatician’s before they can make any of our gelato.”

Hathorn found attending a school on frozen desserts helped kick off the program at Sam & Greg’s. “It also taught us the science of gelato,” she says. “I think if you’re making it from scratch, it’s helpful to have that training.”

DENISE GREER is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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Man on the Street: Olive Oil Is About to Get Cool https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-olive-oil-is-about-to-get-cool/ Tue, 01 Jun 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/man-on-the-street-olive-oil-is-about-to-get-cool/ Have you ever seen a magnum of olive oil? I hadn’t until last week, when I spotted one in the hands of a mysterious bearded man in a Brooklyn pizzeria. This wasn’t just any mysterious bearded man, of which there are a great many to be found inside Brooklyn pizzerias … this was Nicholas Coleman. […]

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olive oil can

Have you ever seen a magnum of olive oil? I hadn’t until last week, when I spotted one in the hands of a mysterious bearded man in a Brooklyn pizzeria. This wasn’t just any mysterious bearded man, of which there are a great many to be found inside Brooklyn pizzerias … this was Nicholas Coleman. After serving as chief Oleologist at Eataly for several years, Nick went on to preach olive oil gospel at renowned culinary institutions around the planet. Now he runs “a bespoke full-service olive oil procurement center,” which sources oil from across the globe for large clients and individual customers. When I met Nick, he was dropping off a fresh bottle of olive oil he designed in collaboration with rapper/TV star Action Bronson.

Scott Wiener Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Scott Wiener
Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

That’s right. Olive oil is about to get cool.

Pizzerias have been treating olive oil like an anonymous commodity for years, but there’s an incredible amount of potential that’s only beginning to come to fruition. In the past, all anybody ever cared about was whether or not the label said extra virgin, but that’s barely an indicator of anything. As I learned from master olive miller David Garci-Aguirre, the requirements for extra virgin are so broad it’s like bragging about passing a test when you only got a C-.

Have you ever sipped your olive oil? Try it right now. Does it tickle the tongue or does it burn the throat? The latter means that your oil has gone rancid. At the very least, your oil should taste good. It should taste like olive.

Olives are fruits, so we really need to think of olive oil as fruit juice. It’s best when fresh and declines with exposure to heat, light and air. Olive oil goes rancid after 12 to 18 months, so look for a packing date on your label. Then be sure to store your supply away from heat and light. You probably blast through containers of oil faster than they can spoil, but home cooks often don’t realize that once a package is opened they need to consume their oil within a few months.

In pizza, we tend to value a connection to pizza’s Italian origin, but quality olive oil isn’t restricted to the boot. Spain, Greece, Italy and Tunisia are all huge producers, but check your bottles and you’ll probably see a blended oil even if marketed as Italian. That’s why you really need to go with taste instead of relying on marketing language on the label. California has some excellent oil right now with an industry some say will echo the state’s success with wine. The southern hemisphere is emerging as a major player, with excellent oils coming from Argentina, Chile, Uruguay and Brazil.

I remember judging a pizza competition in Harlem a few years ago that pitted 50 Margherita pizzas against each other over the course of two days. You’d think it would have been hard to discriminate between one pie and the next, but I clearly remember the moment I encountered the winner. The most obvious difference was the quality olive oil the pizzaiolo used to finish the pie. Had he used an inferior oil, the pizza would have been indiscriminable from its competitors.

As all pizza makers continue to up their fermentation game, their tomato sourcing, and their cheese selection I truly believe that quality olive oil will emerge as the quiet hero of pizza flavor.

SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org  Instagram: @scottspizzatours

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A Guide to Cooking Oils in the Pizzeria https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/a-guide-to-cooking-oils-in-the-pizzeria/ Tue, 01 Jun 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/a-guide-to-cooking-oils-in-the-pizzeria/ A Quick Oil Change For centuries oil has been an integral part of cooking because of its inherent ability to change the nature of food. The saturated fats of yesteryear like butter and lard added to the popularity of fried foods, baked goods and charred meats but were unfortunately not the healthiest oils to consume. […]

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A Quick Oil Change

For centuries oil has been an integral part of cooking because of its inherent ability to change the nature of food. The saturated fats of yesteryear like butter and lard added to the popularity of fried foods, baked goods and charred meats but were unfortunately not the healthiest oils to consume. Back then, not much thought was given to when, where and how unrefined oils such as fresh-pressed vegetable oils were made and stored. This led to off-tasting, expired and even rancid oils populating the market.

Today, if you do not keep an eye on your oil products and information about provenance, production and shelf-time, you may be feeding bad oil to your customers. Our pizzerias operate with many different doughs, techniques and cooking temperatures. Finding the right oil can be a choice of quality over mediocrity, flavor over cost and what oils are perfect for your operation.

 

The Flavor of Oil

Some oils transform the flavor of foods enveloping the foods in the pressed oil flavor increasing the harmony of each dish, salad or baked item. The flavored oils by their very nature have lower smoke points because of the extra compounds in the oils. Here are some great tasting flavored oils for you and your pizzeria and their smoke points.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Smoke point 325F-375F. The king of oils has many different types like unfiltered, filtered and mixed. I use only accredited fresh California extra-virgin shipped in oxygen-free containers. Garlic-rosemary flavored oil is very easy to make for pizza or slow roasted garlic with this oil. (See recipe.) I also use extra virgin instead of butter to make laminated dough or to cover flavorful fougasse before and after the oven for a flavor explosion.

Walnut Oil: Smoke point, 320F. This surprisingly sweet and nutty, (duh.) flavor makes the most wonderful vinaigrette when combined with balsamic vinegar. It is perfect on aged cheeses and especially paired with asparagus, cold noodles, peaches, pears and radicchio.

Sesame Oil: Smoke point 350-410F. Roasted sesame oil is better with salads and finishing oils and light sesame oil is better for sautéing and baking. Great with Dijon, orange, garlic, ginger, chicken and vinegar.

Coconut Oil: Smoke point 400F. This oil is best in non-hydrogenated or virgin form and is great for frying. Its taste has notes of nuts, vanilla and is great with almonds. This oil starts turning to liquid at 72F which makes for flaky baked items and is great with garlic, ginger, scallions, lime, greens and chocolate.   

 

Neutral Oils

These oils are suitable for high heat frying or for adding to flavored oils to bring the benefit of their high-heat smoke points to the flavor, (Example: Extra virgin/canola oils). You may also want an oil that has zero flavor to not muddle with a dish or sear vegetables or meats. Here are some neutral flavored oils you may want to try along with their smoke points:

Peanut Oil: Smoke point, 450F. This has a mild flavor and great for Asian dishes and searing and roasting, deep-frying and grilling. Using this in your restaurant may produce problems with customers with severe allergies. Great with soy, ginger, garlic, curries, chicken and pork.

Canola Oil: Smoke point, 400F. Canola can be used for medium to high temperatures which makes it great for baking but not good for deep frying. Many chefs like its neutral flavor favors salad dressings. Good with chilies, sauces and soups and used in combination with flavorful olive oils.

Rice Bran Oil: Smoke point, 490. This high-heat oil is great for searing. Its light viscosity makes for less oil being absorbed during cooking. Until recently, rice bran chaff was used for animal feed. Now, the oils uses are best for frying chicken, searing vegetables like potato, broccoli, shrimp and thick vegetable greens, like broccoli.

 

Extra Virgin and Garlic Satchel Bombe

This little ditty has become one of my customers favorite bread item. The slow roasted garlic in extra-virgin oil is steamed in a small bag of crispy dough. The ricotta gem inside adds to the supple garlic heaven and is countered with a cool and chunky garlic-tomato vinaigrette. I sometimes use chive strings or long leeks to tie. Please note: If your oven cooks with very strong top heat, you may want to bake these at 450 at 15 minutes.

Get the Extra Virgin and Garlic Satchel Bombe recipe.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Pineapple on Pizza: Sweet Surrender https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/pineapple-on-pizza-sweet-surrender/ Tue, 01 Jun 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/pineapple-on-pizza-sweet-surrender/ Give in to pineapple, already My love affair with pineapple began at a young age. In an effort to provide me with healthy snacks, my mother would cut up fresh pineapple, along with a variety of other fruits, and keep a large fruit salad in the fridge. When I tried to grab sugary cereals, candy […]

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Hawaiian sunshine pizzaGive in to pineapple, already

My love affair with pineapple began at a young age. In an effort to provide me with healthy snacks, my mother would cut up fresh pineapple, along with a variety of other fruits, and keep a large fruit salad in the fridge. When I tried to grab sugary cereals, candy and other junk foods, she’d do her best to get me to satisfy my sweet tooth with the fruit.

It mostly worked. I quickly discovered that I truly love nearly all fruits, but in particular I was bananas about bananas, peaches and — you guessed it — pineapple.

It wasn’t long before I started requesting ham and pineapple as my pizza toppings, much to the chagrin of my friends, who favored sausage, green peppers and mushrooms.

Now I know there’s a certain segment of pizza society that, to this very day, consider pineapple on pizza to be blasphemous. To those people I resolutely say this: it’s okay to be wrong. Nobody’s perfect.

In all seriousness, for those who want to hang their hat on tradition … I get it. I really do. I’m a “baseball purist,” and that label comes with an extreme disdain for the Designated Hitter. Most modern-day hardball fans disagree with that — they want to see more home runs.

Well, modern diners want bursts of fresh flavors and combinations that go well beyond the traditional. Hey, Buffalo chicken pizza is not traditional, but it’s insanely popular. Give the people what they want, within reason, or they’ll get it somewhere else. If you still think pineapple isn’t within reason in 2021, we’ve already established that you’re just plain wrong!

My personal favorite pizza that features pineapple carries a sweet heat to it. Check it out.

Spicy Pineapple PieSpicy Pineapple Pie

Get the Spicy Pineapple Pie recipe.

Hawaiian Sunshine

Get the Hawaiian Sunshine recipe.

I realize some of this is just too much for some of you fundamental traditionalists to handle. So here’s a pie that is very traditional … but has pineapple.

Okay, Boomer

Get the Okay, Boomer recipe.

Pick a Fight Love pineapple on pizza? Hate it? Have a pizza recipe featuring pineapple that you simply adore and that flies off the shelves? Tell me about it: jwhite@pizzatoday.com.

 

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Mike’s Monthly Tip: Not So Secret Menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/mikes-monthly-tip-not-so-secret-menu/ Thu, 27 May 2021 18:37:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/mikes-monthly-tip-not-so-secret-menu/ You should never have a secret menu. However, an open-secret menu is a great idea. An open-secret menu is something that everyone could readily figure out or find. So it’s not a secret at all, but it has just enough mystique to come off as a special. In-N-Out does this well with their “Animal-Style” variations […]

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Stilettos Slice Lounge, new york city pizza tour, new york style pizza, truffle shuffle

You should never have a secret menu. However, an open-secret menu is a great idea. An open-secret menu is something that everyone could readily figure out or find. So it’s not a secret at all, but it has just enough mystique to come off as a special. In-N-Out does this well with their “Animal-Style” variations of the menu. With that said, it’s pretty easy to find their secret menu. If you have some special hidden menu item or nuanced specialty “Thing” that only some of your staff know about, it’s time to get that into the open. If only a handful of customers know about it, then it most likely has value, and you’re holding it back on sharing it. Find a fun way to show the secret menu. Possibly hide it with a special link on your website, or explain it as the “secret menu” because it’s out there, and you want people to feel special about ordering those items.

Mike Bausch, owner, Andolini’s Pizzeria, Tulsa, Oklahoma, speaker, International Pizza Expo

Mike Bausch, owner, Andolini’s Pizzeria

There’s also the McRib approach of taking a semi-popular item and then taking it off the menu and bringing it back every now and again. This tactic gives the feeling of exclusivity, which increases the sales of this item significantly more than it would sell if it were on the menu all year. Here is my pizza approach: I have about 20 specialty pizzas, so when we get a new idea to add to the menu, one has to come off. I take the “retired” pizza and add it to my slice of the night one day of the week. I pair it with a rare beer and make it an event that we push on social media and build a call to action that pizza would not garner otherwise.

Along with that, every time I do bring something back or add something new, it’s a new advertising opportunity. If you’re just about to open your restaurant and have a slew of ideas of what you want on your menu, start with the base items and slowly add each new menu item. This approach provides a new call to action each time you roll out an item. Sequential calls to action make your restaurant appear fresh and never stagnant. New items give your customers more reasons to come back to your restaurant as you start your growth. A slow menu rollout also helps a completely new staff avoid becoming overwhelmed.

For anything else you are willing to do or sell; it should be evident on your menu and website. Services like specialized pizza tours or making pizza at someone’s house to selling dough balls in bulk should all be listed somewhere clear and visible. If you’re willing to sell it, you should also be willing to put it on an official menu and advertise it. People will often say, “Oh, but that’s something I do on the side,” which means it’s an idea not being utilized. If people ask without you advertising it, then there is a hungry audience for it. Customers should have the opportunity to purchase it without it being their idea. If more than once are you asked about doing something, then it should be on your menu of items or services.

A great example of this is in Vegas. Steve Wynn got asked about his linens in the Wynn Hotel so much that he went a made a whole showroom near the casino floor of everything utilized in his hotel room. That way, hotel guests and non-hotel guest shoppers could see the Wynn-at-Home products, interact with them, and potentially buy them. For most purchases, the items get sent to the customer’s home. That’s taking a brand signifier and making it obviously available for sale, which you should do for every conceivable product or service inside of your four walls and not keep it a secret anymore.

MIKE BAUSCH is the owner of Andolini’s Pizzeria in Tulsa, Oklahoma.  Instagram: @mikeybausch

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Man on the Street: The Rebirth of the New York Slice https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-the-rebirth-of-the-new-york-slice/ Sat, 01 May 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/man-on-the-street-the-rebirth-of-the-new-york-slice/ New York City’s pizza scene experienced an identity crisis over the past decade. If you asked me to define “New York style” pizza in the early 2000s, I would have told you it’s a large, thin, puffy-edged pizza sold by the slice and eaten via the fold hold while standing or walking. That’s been the […]

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burrata pizza, hot honey, L’Industrie, brooklyn, new york city pizza tour, new york style pizza

Burrata & Hot Honey Pizza, L’Industrie, Brooklyn, NYC

New York City’s pizza scene experienced an identity crisis over the past decade. If you asked me to define “New York style” pizza in the early 2000s, I would have told you it’s a large, thin, puffy-edged pizza sold by the slice and eaten via the fold hold while standing or walking. That’s been the definition since gas ovens outpaced coal-fired ovens by the middle of the 20th century. But those slice shops that once appeared on every corner were suddenly becoming a relic. Convenience and value had become more important than quality.

Scott Wiener Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Scott Wiener
Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

It really hit me when tourists would refer to wood-fired neo-Neapolitan pizzas and the newly popular $1 slices as if they exemplified New York style pizza. People were more interested in the high end and the low end, but they were ignoring the middle.

The slice shops that came to identify NYC had fallen out of vogue as Gotham began to embrace styles from other cities. We had the Neapolitan wave, a Detroit style wave, and even a few Roman style pizzerias. Heck, we even had a Rhode Island style grilled pizzeria for a minute. A city that was once known for being so territorial and exclusionary had flipped!

On one hand I was delighted to see such a broad embrace of foreign styles, but on the other it felt like we were losing an important part of NYC identity. That’s why it has been such a relief to see a new breed of slice shop popping up these last few years. These new pizzerias pay homage to the classic shops that used to thrive on every block with the addition of more thoughtful ingredient selection and production process.

Scarr’s in the Lower East Side brought house-milled flour and organic ingredients into the slice format. Brooklyn’s L’industrie does multi-day fermentation and tops each slice to order. Best Pizza pulls their own mozzarella in house. These are things we’d only seen in artisan pizzerias, not in slice shops.

With the stage set, the pandemic only confirmed the return of the slice. Sit-down joints were struggling while slice shops flourished. I experienced the contrast this week in Soho. I was walking away from Lombardi’s, a pizzeria that just recently lost the lease on one of the two buildings they rent. On the opposite corner I saw the brand-new facade of Upside Pizza, a retro-chic slice shop that uses natural fermentation for their dough. The serendipity was almost poetic. Behind me was the skeleton of The Before Times, in front of me was the infant smile of the future.

Just a few short blocks away is Zazzy’s, another new slice joint that’s taking advantage of cheap leases by opening multiple locations across the city. Just like Upside, it uses high-powered electric ovens and makes pizza that revises the classic slice with some much-appreciated updates. They avoid commodity flour, practice intelligent fermentation, and bake their pizza to the point of light char.

As the pandemic has encouraged outdoor dining and take-away windows, maybe it’s finally time for the rest of the country to fully embrace pizza slice culture. Derrick Tung just opened a Paulie Gee’s Slice Shop in Chicago and there’s another one coming to New Orleans. John Gutekanst is opening an Avalanche slice shop in Athens, OH. Could this be a true nationwide slice renaissance? I can only hope!

SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org  Instagram: @scottspizzatours

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The Sicilian: How to Make Sicilian Pizza https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/the-sicilian-how-to-make-sicilian-pizza/ Sat, 01 May 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/the-sicilian-how-to-make-sicilian-pizza/ If you wish to offer Sicilian style pizza in your pizzeria, all it takes is a few hardware pieces, and plenty of patience or over 3,000 years the island of Sicily has experienced a steady stream of naval powers, raids, invasions and occupations. Because the sea has cut off Sicily from her neighbors, the island […]

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sicilian pizza

If you wish to offer Sicilian style pizza in your pizzeria, all it takes is a few hardware pieces, and plenty of patience

or over 3,000 years the island of Sicily has experienced a steady stream of naval powers, raids, invasions and occupations. Because the sea has cut off Sicily from her neighbors, the island has been able to preserve the ancient Roman culinary traditions that was not possible on the mainland. Native Sicilian and World Pizza Champion Luciano Carciotto says, “Sicily, since Roman times, was already considered the personal mill of ancient Rome.” The Romans referred to Sicily as ‘The blessing of Ceres, a paradise where grain, olives and grape vines flourished.’ Eventually, the land and wheat led to some great flatbread and pizza traditions.

Master Pizzaiolo Matteo Ruvolo from Catania, Italy, who now lives in Miami, has been bringing interest back in the ancient grains of Sicily. “Grains like Maiorca, Tumminia, Perciassacchi and Scavuzzo have been grown for centuries in arid and marginal soils as well as the mountainous areas of Sicily and are making a comeback.” Mr. Ruvolo is an advocate of Sicilian products like Pecorino Siciliano, Bronte Pistachio, Modica Chocolate, Trapani salt, Prickly Pear and Cherries from Etna and the Pachino tomato from Ragusa.

Introducing Sicilian Style in your Menu Mix

If you wish to offer Sicilian style pizza in your pizzeria, all it takes is a few hardware pieces, and plenty of patience. Like most focaccias and thick crusted pizzas, time and temperature will decide your perfect Sicilian pizza rise. Here are some quick foundations.

Sicilian Pizza dough is mixed and formed to your chosen specifications of yeast, pre-ferment, hydration and protein level. Please remember that the goal of most Italian pizza is to make the dough as digestible as possible. This entails long holding times for direct method doughs or the use of pre-ferments such as biga, poolish and Pasta Fermentata, (Pate Fermentee in French or old dough.)

Sicilian Pans: There are some great pans on the market. Choose one that is large enough to accommodate your dough without buckling under higher heat. Many companies are now selling pans that are specifically made for Sicilian pizzas. Do not balk at what may seem a high price for pans, they will be with you forever. Be sure to always season your pans to prevent sticking.

Flour: Much is said about using Neapolitan “00” flour or just bread flour or a combination of both. Some pizza makers love the tight cake-like crumb of a traditional Sicilian fine semolina pizza dough while others prefer higher protein in the form of Manitoba wheat. The higher gluten of a 12- to 14-percent flour is more forgiving for high-volume operations and produces an open crumb but left unchecked (or in amateur hands) it may blow up in the center of the Sicilian pan like Mt. Etna. Then after the par-bake, the cheese will flow…off the pan.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Over the years, I have seen many chefs and pizza makers choose the most expensive cheeses and toppings but then buy oils that are rancid and oxidized with no provenance as to where they were made or how old they are. I recommend blanketing your Sicilian in fresh Extra Virgin and not any other oil that may be old and oxidated. New data* shows that extra-virgin is more chemically stable than mixed oils even when baked past its smoke point of 350 F-410 F. With fresh oils in oxygen-free containers, your crust will embody the nutty, non-greasy flavor of fresh olive juice and exhibit a beautiful golden crunch.

Cheese: Never skimp on cheese for Sicilian pizza. Your customers will notice if you have crappy cheese and/or are not putting enough on your pizza. Your customers may like the taste of a mozzarella/provolone mix to counter the strong flavors of pepperoni and sausage or just a great pull from a mozzarella loaf like in Brooklyn-style Sicilian pizza.

Sauce: The best sauces are made with tomatoes that go from the vine to the can in under an hour. These may be more expensive, but you cannot mix your way to a great sauce using crummy second grade tomatoes or purees. Because the best Sicilian pizzas have the sauce on top of the cheese, this will show that you care about flavor over everything.

*U.S. News and World Reports. Why you should stop worrying about olive oils smoke points, Sept 27, 2019

 

Direct Method Sicilian Pepperoni Pizza

In my pizzeria, we make both indirect method dough (using pre-ferments and old dough) and direct method doughs for all our focaccia and Sicilian pizzas. We also use a multitude of grains that accentuate different tastes and textures to the thick breading. This recipe uses just the basic ingredients at 72-percent hydration to form a great pizza crust and incorporates time, temperature and patience. You may want to keep it retarded under refrigeration for another day for a more dynamic crust and added digestibility.

Get the Direct Method Sicilian Pepperoni Pizza recipe, including the dough formula and step-by-step instructions.

 

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Five Awesome Sauce Pizza Base Ideas https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/five-awesome-sauce-pizza-base-ideas/ Sat, 01 May 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/five-awesome-sauce-pizza-base-ideas/ Get out of the basic red sauce rut with these five pizza sauces pizza’s sauce might just be the ultimate change up to its flavor. Sauce is an important link in the holy trinity of pizza (crust, cheese and sauce). You can go subtle to accentuate other flavors, forego a base altogether or go bold […]

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thai sweet chili sauce, red sauce alternatives, creative pizza sauces

Get out of the basic red sauce rut with these five pizza sauces

pizza’s sauce might just be the ultimate change up to its flavor. Sauce is an important link in the holy trinity of pizza (crust, cheese and sauce). You can go subtle to accentuate other flavors, forego a base altogether or go bold to let the sauce shine.

Yes, there is a segment of pizza lovers who are steadfast that a tomato sauce must be used. But even Neapolitan pizza has ventured beyond its classic hand-crushed tomatoes to include bianco-style oil bases.

Regions across America are also known for specific sauces that people love. Barbecues alone have varied and flavorful versions from Kansas City to North Carolina. Remoulade sauce is popular in New Orleans.

Regardless of the debate over whether Ranch belongs on pizza, Ranch-based sauces are popular across the country. Pepper-based hot sauces are crowd pleasers, though the specific style may vary based on the region.

Doctored Red

Getting out of your sauce comfort zone doesn’t have to be a far stretch. Change up your red sauce to create a whole new option. Heat is trending. There are a number of ways you can spice up your tomato sauce. You can infuse your sauce with cayenne pepper, red pepper flakes, chipotle peppers in Adobo, hot peppers, hot sauce or others. You can go with a sweet heat by adding hot honey. Be sure to try different levels of heat with your taste-testers.

Get an Extra-Spicy Tomato Sauce recipe to test.

 

Sweet Chili Sauce

A sweet chili sauce is versatile. In addition to using it as a base for pizza, marinade chicken or pork with the sauce and add it as a dipping option for wings. A good combination with the sweet chili sauce is a pizza topped with mozzarella, chicken, cilantro and roasted red pepper.

Sweet chili sauce is available by bottle or make it from scratch. Give it your own flair by adding pineapple, sriracha, coconut, mango or anything you think will be a good complement to the chili sauce. Here’s a basic sweet chili sauce to play with to find the right consistency for a base.

Get the Sweet Chili Sauce recipe.

 

Romesco

This creamy red sauce originated in Tarragona, Catalonia and it’s a perfect complement to pizza. Romesco is made with roasted tomatoes, garlic,  almonds (pine nuts or hazelnuts may be substituted), nyora peppers (substitute with red bell pepper or ancho pepper), olive oil and flour for thickening. After cooking the mixture, blend until smooth.

The basic sauce can be enhanced with cayenne pepper, paprika, red wine or vinegar. Try replacing your white sauce with the vibrant Romesco.   

A dynamite pizza combination would be ham or Canadian bacon, arugula and ricotta. Or, leverage the Spanish flavors with spinach, artichokes, goat cheese and Parmesan.

 

Chimichurri

If you’ve been to an Argentinian restaurant, you’ve probably tried fresh chimichurri atop a steak. Chimichurri is similar to pesto. It features flat leaf “Italian” parsley, garlic, oregano, crushed red pepper, red wine vinegar, olive oil, lemon juice and red onion or shallots.

Let’s stick with what works and feature the chimichurri sauce on pizza with skirt steak, cilantro, jalapeno and red onion. Chimichurri also makes a great dipping sauce for fries and bread and can be incorporated into a killer pasta dish.

 

White Garlic Sauce

This sauce is a really garlicky bechamel. It’s creamy with a bit of punch from the garlic. Try it on a specialty pizza with chicken, spinach, mushroom and shaved Parmesan. It’s also perfect for dipping. Here’s a basic recipe to tinker with to give it your own spin.

Get the White Garlic Sauce recipe.

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Roll Out: Maximizing a New Menu Item Launch https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/roll-out-maximizing-a-new-menu-item-launch/ Thu, 01 Apr 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/roll-out-maximizing-a-new-menu-item-launch/ Lightning has struck, and you’ve come up with a great new menu idea. You’ve tried it out, tweaked it a few times, and you know that it’s pretty solid. You’ve had people that don’t mind offending you tell you they love it too. When this happened to me I’d think, “It’s a great item, so […]

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New Menu Item Launch

Lightning has struck, and you’ve come up with a great new menu idea. You’ve tried it out, tweaked it a few times, and you know that it’s pretty solid. You’ve had people that don’t mind offending you tell you they love it too. When this happened to me I’d think, “It’s a great item, so let’s put it on the menu right now; let’s do it tonight, right? Let’s get it out there as fast as possible. Every second that we don’t have it on the menu, we’re hurting ourselves. We’ll sell it as a special, and it’ll be great, and people will love it.”

This shotgun approach was my original path to a new menu item. The problem is that every time I executed a new menu item this way, with nothing else, the menu item would fall on its face and land flat. Operationally it was a nightmare, the staff was confused, and the customer had no reason to care about it. The team didn’t have the wherewithal to sell it, and the whole thing was a cluster.

This thud of a rollout would especially sting when I put a lot of thought into the menu item. Sometimes sourced ingredients specifically for this item to make sure it was perfect; it was heartbreaking not to see it succeed. I realized if I wanted to give these items the best shot at success, I need to invest more in the process and roll out, or else it was all for nothing.

Making a great product is expected; that’s the price of entry. Keying into the process of how to launch it SUCCESSFULLY is how you translate that work into sales. Here are the four fundamental principles to a great, well promoted, and operationally successful rollout:

1. Item locked down. This one most people get right. They key in on the item and test it to make sure it tastes great and represents the restaurant well. Even testing it with multiple people who will give honest feedback to ensure the item is legit and tastes excellent to various palates. It’s easy to get excited here, write it on a chalkboard, plop it into the point of sale system, pat yourself on the back and call it a day. The problem is more work still needs to be done.

2. Process set up for success. Once the item is locked, it needs to be documented in a format that all staff can quickly get to and review no matter the shift or location. Once the card is made, it’s time for the kitchen to show it off to the servers, so they know how to make it, and servers know what it tastes like for selling it. The kitchen’s order guides and pars could potentially change as a result of the new items on the menu, be prepared for that and make sure your vendor is ready as well. If you just added a quail egg pizza, don’t assume your vendor will be rolling knee-deep in quail eggs if this item is a success.

3. Menu unified and correct. Does the menu item have a story to the name, something fun but not so off-kilter no one would know what it is? Along with that, does the description match the rest of the menu in terms of verbiage and descriptors? For example, it’s not written in the first person, while the rest of the menu is written as purely nouns, no adjectives or full sentences. Does the price make sense and reflect the item’s worth, meaning the most you can get for it while still making food cost and the items feel worth the menu price? Then is the menu unified everywhere: in-house paper menu, online menu, catering menu, QR code menu, third party menu and anywhere people might find your food? Then have it launch simultaneously; the best bet is a Monday morning for the menu and all other menus to roll out unified.

4. Marketing with a plan. A decent professional photoshoot of new menu items will get a lot further than an overexposed shot from an old iPhone under fluorescent kitchen lights. These photos will sell beyond what your words can do and give you marketing ammo for your website and all social platforms. Promoting the menu items can be done on day one, or you might wait a few days to know the kitchen is firing on all cylinders before you do a massive push. After that, make a press release about your new menu item; you never know what or who will pick up the story and run with it. Especially in smaller markets, it’s a story, and nightly news needs filler stories every day of the week. Why not have it be yours, FOR FREE?

Sidenote: Also document yourself during this whole process. It doesn’t hurt your sales efforts. Even when the item isn’t right, taking photos and posting it to Instagram stories, demonstrating the journey is all a part of the marketing of the item. You might think no one would care, or I don’t want to show off the failures, but that mindset is wrong. Selling the process is a part of the story and it makes the customer that much more likely to want to try the final item. The longer the build, the bigger the response.

This method is what works; add more steps if you want but don’t do less than this. If you don’t do it this way, you’ll still get the item out there, but it’ll be confusing and won’t garner the potential notoriety it could. You want to sell the sizzle. You want to build this up. If you don’t, it won’t perform well. Even if you run a single unit store and love to sell items on the fly, you still need to abide by these four principles for the item to succeed. If you are living in the “daily special” world, that’s great, have fun, but it doesn’t translate to multiple store growth. It’s tough to do “daily special” across various locations and with numerous staff members and have it executed the same way and with universal pomp and circumstance. For most fast-food chains, it takes six to nine months to go from conception to menu. It takes that long to source the item appropriately with an iron-clad process and marketing plan upon rollout.

It’s rarely smart to copy chain mentality on product quality; it’s always intelligent to copy their systemization principles. These can make your life easier and your menu robust, executable and successful.

Mike Bausch  is the owner of Andolini’s Pizzeria in Tulsa, Oklahoma.  Instagram: @mikeybausch

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Presto: Add versatile pesto to your menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/presto-add-versatile-pesto-to-your-menu/ Thu, 01 Apr 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/presto-add-versatile-pesto-to-your-menu/ Most pizza shops have two categories of pies. Red or white. But what about that illusive third option? Green. Pesto can be a replacement for sauce or used as a topping. It can be made vegan or extra cheesy. There are endless ingredients that you can use in a pesto, and spring just happens to […]

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pesto pizza

Most pizza shops have two categories of pies. Red or white. But what about that illusive third option? Green. Pesto can be a replacement for sauce or used as a topping. It can be made vegan or extra cheesy. There are endless ingredients that you can use in a pesto, and spring just happens to offer some of the best. While you can grow a lot of fresh herbs year-round, the next couple of months are when they tend to thrive, and different varietals of allium are popping up, such as spring garlic.

As long as you have the right ratio of certain components, you can sub out ingredients to create an indefinite amount of possible pestos. Every pesto needs to have: a base, which is traditionally herbs or greens, nuts/seeds, garlic/other allium, cheese and oil. Of course, if you’re making it dairy or nut free there are substitutions that can be made, and we will get into that shortly.

For the greens, you can use basil, cilantro, chives, parsley, kale, chard, beet greens or any other herb or green you want. Same goes for the nut portion. The most traditional is pine nuts but since they can be pricey or if you are simply looking for another flavor profile they can be substituted with walnuts, almonds, pumpkin seeds or sunflower seeds. Cheese is a little different. Ideally you want to use a hard, aged varietal. I’ve always been partial to grated Parmigiano Reggiano, but if you’re looking for something a bit saltier, you could always use Pecorino. As far as garlic goes, feel free to switch it out for another allium. Spring garlic, ramps and garlic scapes are awesome in the short window that they are available. You can also try leeks, shallots or black garlic. Extra virgin olive oil is always my preference for pesto.

Once you get a basic recipe down, you can get creative. Want to make it spicy? Throw in some jalapeños, Serranos or even ghost peppers. You can take the spice to a different level by pickling or roasting the peppers. Like yours on the sweet side? Replace a little of the oil with a few tablespoons of honey, agave or maple syrup. Want a little umami flavor? Go ahead, toss in some truffle salt.

Some people are stark traditionalists when it comes to pesto, and if I’m being honest, a great basil and pine nut pesto is still my favorite. Tony Gemignani has always done a fantastic pesto. He might use basic ingredients, but he puts care into what they are. His recipe is comprised of fresh basil, pine nuts, Parmigiano Reggiano, garlic, olive oil and, as a twist, he throws in a little agave syrup. He pairs his pesto with everything from a simple mozzarella and tomato to purple potato pie. Most recently I saw him making Green Top Detroits. Now, I’m not a Detroit pizza expert by any means, but this isn’t something I have seen. It looked gorgeous and utterly delicious.

Recently, I’ve noticed a few other really fun and creative pestos that have stuck in my head and made me want to hop on a plane to go try them. Chris Decker of Metro Pizza makes a Peppadew pesto. Unlike other pestos where the basil and garlic comprise the main flavor profile, the Peppadews are the star of the show in this one. He pairs it with sausage links and caramelized onions. Another really interesting pesto I saw on Instagram was a beetroot pesto from A Dopo in Knoxville, Tennessee. Owner, Brian Strutz, said that their manager, Andrew, came up with the recipe. In addition to the cooked and pureed beets, they add in walnuts, lemon juice, chives and parsley. The bright red is visually gorgeous, especially during the grey winter months.

At my Slice Shop our house pesto is actually vegan. This is because we get a lot of requests for vegan pies, and pesto is an easy thing to make dairy and meat free. Another reason for its veganism is that I don’t like to make two versions of the same thing, so we don’t waste space or time. I’ve seen people do vegan pestos with nutritional yeast or vegan Parmesan in place of the cheese, but I like to simply add a hit of fresh lemon juice and some sea salt to balance out the flavors.

I’m all about cross-utilization at my restaurant. I like to get multiple uses out of all of my ingredients and pesto is fantastic for so many different things. Of course, it is brilliant on pizza. It can brighten up any pie. But it is also great as an appetizer or a pasta sauce. It can be lathered on crusty bread for bruschetta, used as a marinade for chicken, baked with burrata and sun-dried tomatoes, drizzled on top of fresh mozzarella or feta, turned into a salad dressing, or used as a dipping sauce for focaccia. There are endless options just with pasta. It can be served hot with a nice bucatini or Strichetti, layered in lasagna, or one of my favorites is a simple cold pesto pasta salad.

As you can see, all pestos are not created equal, even if you’re following an exact recipe. There are a few things to keep in mind and a few tricks to make it come out as close to perfect as possible. First off, think about your garlic. The garlic is what will give pesto its kick, assuming you’re not adding any other peppers or spicy ingredients. Where does your garlic come from? Is it green in the middle? What time of year is it? All of these factors will determine how spicy the garlic is and thus the final product of your pesto.

Next is keeping that vibrant green color. A squeeze of fresh lemon juice will help with that. The acidity will also balance out the flavors. Another trick is to add a few ice chips when you are blending the basil. This slows down the oxidation and retains the bright green color. Another trick that Tony let me in on is to make your bulk batch more concentrated and then add more oil right before using it. He also puts the pesto on post-bake so that it not only retains its color, but also keeps the oil from making the pizza too wet. It’s a trick that I am now doing and love the results I am getting. That being said, if you are using pesto as a base on your pizzas and not as worried about the color, it can be a great way to use up basil that has started to turn a little darker.

As you can see, the possibilities are endless when it comes to pesto. So, create your go-to recipe and then explore all of the possibilities by substituting different ingredients. Below is a recipe for a vegan chive pesto. It’s vegan because I will assume that it is a common request everywhere for more vegan options, and homemade always sells better on a menu. Its main ingredient is chives because I just can’t seem to get enough of them lately.

Vegan Chive Pesto

Get the Vegan Chive Pesto recipe.

Audrey Kelly owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado.

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Hot in Pizza: Explore 2021 Menu Trends https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/hot-in-pizza-explore-2021-menu-trends/ Thu, 01 Apr 2021 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/hot-in-pizza-explore-2021-menu-trends/ The most exciting competition at Pizza Expo is always the Non-traditional division. Free from the limitations of other categories, it’s a showcase for experimentation that often inspires pizzeria menus for the following year. Without the benefit of a 2020 Expo, all eyes fall on social media posts and updates for a peek at burgeoning menu […]

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2021 Menu Trends

The most exciting competition at Pizza Expo is always the Non-traditional division. Free from the limitations of other categories, it’s a showcase for experimentation that often inspires pizzeria menus for the following year. Without the benefit of a 2020 Expo, all eyes fall on social media posts and updates for a peek at burgeoning menu trends. Here we’ll investigate which items resonate at pizzerias, which are passing fads, and which are not worth your time.

 

Still Hot — Detroit-style Pizza

The thick, crispy cheese-edged squares from the Motor City may have been unknown to the general public for the vast majority of their existence, but they’re certainly making up for lost time. According to Google Trends, searches for “Detroit style pizza” increased nearly eight-fold in January 2021 over the 2020 average.

That might have something to do with the flood of new “Detroit style” products entering the mainstream market. Little Caesar’s has been serving Detroit style “Deep Deep Dish” pizza since 2013, but Pizza Hut’s January 2021 launch is making the style a household name. They even went so far as to call it “the hottest trend in pizza.”

Independent pizzerias are opening left and right featuring Detroit style as a main event, but existing pizzerias are also adding it as a new menu option. “We started in the summer with a few pans, offering a dozen a day. When demand grew, we converted the dining room, and by October we started offering them every day all day,” says Tom Grande of Grande Jr Pizza Express in Washington, Pennsylvania.

 

New Topping Trend — Pickles

Nashville Hot Chicken Pizza

Nashville Hot Chicken Pizza

The unexpected topping to watch this year threatens pineapple’s place on the throne of controversy. Pickles may seem like a questionable topping, but they work great with garlic, dill, bacon, sriracha and ranch dressing.

The Hungry Robot in Fairbanks, Alaska, introduced their “Dilly Dilly” pizza in 2017 but it really took off after being featured on Diners Drive-ins and Dives this January. “It’s always been in the top five for us but since DDD it’s on almost every ticket,” says owner Randy Bezdek. The pie begins with a roasted garlic cream sauce, then adds low moisture mozzarella and dill pickles (they hand slice 20 gallons per week). After the bake it gets a drizzle of garlic-dill ranch dressing and a sprinkle of grated Romano mixed with fresh dill.

Joe Riggio of New York Pizza Suprema in Manhattan landed on a similar recipe for his pickle pizza. “I’m the guy who if you went to the diner with me and left a pickle on your plate – I ate it,” he says. His inspiration came from a pickled turnip dish in a Middle Eastern restaurant in Brooklyn. The pizza hit Suprema’s menu at the end of 2020 and has become popular both by the slice and by the whole pie.

 

Flourless Crusts

The latest diet craze doesn’t leave pizza lovers behind. Keto diets are all about decreasing carbohydrate intake and increasing fat consumption, which provides an interesting challenge for pizzerias. The solution is what’s known as a fathead dough, made with a mix of cheese, eggs and often some almond flour for structure.

Blaze was the first chain to launch a Keto crust pizza in 2019, but it’s taken a few years to reach independent pizzerias. Annabel Gonzalez, of Aaron’s Pizza in Poteet, Texas, is amazed by the success of her keto pizza. “We added them in December [and] I run out every day,” she says of the item.

Cauliflower crusts are also popular with Keto dieters, but its lower fat content makes it less appealing to keto followers and more attractive to those avoiding gluten. This variation relied on riced cauliflower held together with mozzarella to provide a base for standard pizza toppings.

The beauty of these alternative crusts is that they don’t contain yeast. Since fermentation time isn’t a concern, they can be made and baked within minutes.

Quantity and Quality Pizzerias have been the go-to alternative to cooking at home since COVID hit because they already understand the logistics of delivery. That’s why non-pizza items have blossomed over the past year, particularly family-sized meal packages.

Mike Androw of E&D Pizza Company in Avon, Connecticut, offers a special every Tuesday night, featuring a revolving series of entree options. Every family meal comes with several portions of the entree, salad and a loaf of bread. “We did them previously but there has been a gigantic spike since Covid,” he says of the newly popular menu item.

 

Worth the Investment — Frozen and Take and Bake

private labeling and licensing productsConsumers have been buying more frozen foods as a result of the pandemic and that spells big opportunity for frozen pizza. The Chicago Tribune reported that Home Run Inn’s production of frozen pizza increased to 80,000 units per day in May 2020 and experts don’t expect demand to fall anytime soon. The results of a survey by OnePoll show that 69 percent of people plan to continue buying comfort foods even after the pandemic ends, with pizza topping their lists.

Independent pizzerias with nationwide brand recognition, such as Pizzeria Bianco and Di Fara, now offer frozen pizza through Goldbelly. Others keep their frozen offerings in-house, like Zuppardi’s in New Haven.

Pizza Buzz in Fort Worth, Texas, added take-and-bake when COVID hit and it’s been a huge success. Juliana’s in Brooklyn also offers a take-and-bake version of their classic coal-fired pizza, but it’s par-baked so customers can take home some of their signature char.

 

Time’s Running Out for Pizza Making Kits

Food and Wine Magazine predicts that at-home restaurant experiences will be a leading trend in 2021, but pizzerias are seeing interest in pizza making kits fade. “The pizza kits soared when COVID first started but just seems like they’ve dropped off,” says Bill Carmine Cornell of Carmine’s Wood Fired Pizza in Joplin, Missouri. Kits provided a fun activity when we were all being urged to stay home, but that will likely change as restaurants reopen.

The exception to this downturn has been bulk pizza kit sales tied to online pizza making classes for corporate groups. Tony Boloney’s in New Jersey sells hundreds of kits per week, shipping them all over the country. Owner Mike Hauke leads live classes for kit recipients, which adds yet another revenue stream.

Menu trends for 2021 have undoubtedly been shaped by the pandemic and that means they’re likely to change along with government safety regulations. What works one month may not fly the next. This year, pizzerias across the country will continue to operate on high alert while catering to the changing needs of their customers.

SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org  Instagram: @scottspizzatours

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Revenge of the Curds: Specialty Cheeses to Add to Your Menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/revenge-of-the-curds-specialty-cheeses-to-add-to-your-menu/ Tue, 02 Mar 2021 14:24:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/revenge-of-the-curds-specialty-cheeses-to-add-to-your-menu/ “In the midst of chaos, there is also opportunity.” – Sun Tzu, The Art of War   The year 2020 marked one of the most tumultuous restaurant years in my lifetime. Because of Covid, my business model was shaken by new state rules, staff hardships and cranky customers. In June I thought, “What else could […]

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Big Greenie Pizza

Big Greenie Pizza

“In the midst of chaos, there is also opportunity.” – Sun Tzu, The Art of War

 

The year 2020 marked one of the most tumultuous restaurant years in my lifetime. Because of Covid, my business model was shaken by new state rules, staff hardships and cranky customers. In June I thought, “What else could go wrong?” The next day, I was answered as cheese prices jumped 181 percent from mid-April. * I could do one of two things; stick my head in the sand or attack this problem head on. I then began hearing about the new trends toward comfort foods, cheeses, snacks and spicy items. I decided that an appetizer with the most comfortingly decadent cheese on the market would be the answer. Because cream cheese was only 11 cents per ounce compared to 26 cents an ounce for mozzarella, it would be my weapon of choice. That is how our best-selling jalapeño poppers were born, a spicy, crunchy and cheesy salute to the worst year ever.

“I can feel it coming in Gruyere tonight.”

Like a burglar in the night, comfort foods like bold cheeses are forecast to sneak into our customers favor this year. Consumers will be looking to liven the monotony of foods with twists on classic products to avoid menu fatigue. This means they will seek new cheese variants with more exciting flavors like cheese combined with chive, onion, truffle, dill, garlic, chilies and transformational mellow cheese marinades like pesto and gochujang. Here are some other cheeses thought to make a resurgence.

Aged Cheddar: .27 cents to .45 cents per ounce. Perfect with potatoes, cream sauces, bacon, spicy peppers, broccoli, ham, chicken and beans. Try this: Fill dough and wrap with bacon or cheddar-stuffed fresh jalapeños deep fried in dough.

Gouda: 33 cents per ounce for young Gouda and up to 80 cents per ounce for aged. The melt depends upon the age — younger melts better. Great with apples, ham, chipotle chilies, butternut squash, spinach, chicken, peppers, bacon, mushrooms and walnuts. Try this: salad of crumbled, aged Gouda with arugula, pear and Prosciutto di Parma.

Provolone: 15 cents to 40 cents per ounce. Great with mozzarella, garlic, anchovy, pecorino, Prosciutto di Parma, speck, olives, pears, figs, fennel, artichoke, zucchini, radicchio, roasted peppers, basil pesto and lettuces. Try this: Crostini di Prosciutto e Provolone (must be young provolone) or baked chicken breast stuffed with spinach, provolone, spinach and creamy ziti.

Manchego: 46 cents to 61 cents per ounce. Melts like cheddar and ages like Gouda. Perfect with chorizo, cilantro pesto, olive oil, almonds, artichokes, dates, walnuts, roasted peppers, bacon, eggs, figs, aged hams, broccoli rabe and caramelized onion. Try this: Spanish Asparagus Coca (pizza) with Crema de Manchego or an appetizer of cured Serrano ham, lardo and shaved aged Manchego drizzled with quince jam.

Brie and Camembert: 46 cents to 95 cents per ounce. With both cheeses, you must put them on near, or at the end of the bake. Both cheeses have fabulous name recognition and therefore are great sellers paired with mozzarella and cream sauces. Apples, fennel, pears, morel mushrooms, onions, vinegar, arugula, almonds, walnuts, capicola and jams are great pairings.

Gorgonzola: 25 cents to 50 cents per ounce. The creamy consistency of tangy “Gorg” pairs well with pear, apple, nuts, balsamic, honey, bacon, ham, Prosciutto di Parma, mint, figs, corn and cherries. The other beauty with gorgonzola is that it does not take much to flavor a large pizza or creamy pasta dish. Try this: Involtini di Bresaola or Bresaola stuffed with warm gorgonzola and butter.

*New York Times, What’s Gotten Into the Price of Cheese? Matt Phillips, June 22, 2020

 

Pallotte Cacio e Uove

Pallotte Cacio e Uove, photo courtesy of John Gutekanst

Pallotte Cacio e Uove

The best appetizer I have ever had were these beautiful cheese and egg meatballs made by Chef Antonella at a small trattoria in the Abruzzo mountains surrounding Pietraferrazzana, Italy. In this recipe I used Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano Reggiano instead of the Rigatina cheese that she used. Antonella said the bread must be moist from the “Budella di Pane” or guts from an old loaf and not dry, like croutons. She said if it is truly stale bread, use warm milk or water then squeeze it out. This simple sauce coaxes the flavorful waters from the inside of the tomatoes to make a perfect higher hydration for a long simmer.

Get the Pallotte Cacio e Uove recipe.

 

Big Greenie Pizza

This pizza is a big hit with my customers and has two of the new trends, cheese with spicy cilantro-garlic hot sauce from Yemen. The par-baked whole strips of bacon are both visually shocking and add the perfect amount of fat that is topped with the pistachio-radish crunch and the creaminess of the Tzatziki.

Get the Big Greenie Pizza recipe.

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Mike’s Monthly Tip: Curated Beer List https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/mikes-monthly-tip-curated-beer-list/ Mon, 01 Mar 2021 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/mikes-monthly-tip-curated-beer-list/ I don’t like listening to the Billboard Top 40. I never have. I don’t like songs that have no relation to each other. I don’t like listening to music that hasn’t proven it can stand the test of time. Don’t get me wrong, I love new music — just not what is deemed the most […]

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curated beer list

I don’t like listening to the Billboard Top 40. I never have. I don’t like songs that have no relation to each other. I don’t like listening to music that hasn’t proven it can stand the test of time. Don’t get me wrong, I love new music — just not what is deemed the most popular with no other context.

I prefer a curated playlist where each song supports and builds on the previous song. A proper playlist mixes well. That’s my mindset and ethos on each of my restaurants’ music; it’s also the same mindset I apply to our beer and alcohol program. Sure, it would be super easy to tell the liquor distributor, “Give me whatever is selling the best” and hope that means profit, but then you’d be a cookie-cutter soulless entity. Since you’re reading this article, proving you seek growth and advancement, it’s safe to say that ain’t you.

Mike Bausch, owner, Andolini’s Pizzeria, Tulsa, Oklahoma, speaker, International Pizza Expo

Mike Bausch, owner, Andolini’s Pizzeria

If you want to traverse the cookie-cutter path, you’re selling the same experience as your corporate competition. This is the Top 40 approach; it works for mass-produced chains, but it won’t work for you. (Side note: Big chains aren’t exactly thriving.) Instead, create your style and curate your list. When it comes to beers, do you want to sell only local to your state, or are you looking for different styles from across the world? Maybe a particular focus on the variety of bottles, or having tons of beers on draught. Even if you’re going to slum it, slum it with style and carry basic lagers in cans that dive bars across America in 1970 would have sold. That approach is at least different; that approach is an experience.

The best practice is to have a variety to appeal to multiple palates and not just have 10 of the harshest IPAs you can find. If you only buy the beers that can afford a TV commercial in the Super Bowl, you’re underselling your worth and value to the customer. As someone who lives local to your community, who knows what’s what, it’s on you to provide a unique experience representing you and the town you live in, done your way.

The alcohol choices you try yourself, the ones whose taste and story you believe in, will be that much easier to sell. These drinks will provide a unique selling point and customer experience. For the customers who love basic offerings that they’re loyal to, find alternatives that parallel the big boys rather than caving in and carrying mass-market basic stuff.

Your cocktail list can be the run of the mill rum and soda, vodka tonic, etc. Or curate things that are specific to you and your brand. At Andolini’s, we make a Bloody Mary out of San Marzano tomatoes. These are the same tomatoes we use for our pizza, and the Bloody Mary is fantastic, incredibly unique and represents us well. We also sell a strawberry-basil lemonade with the same fresh basil that we top our Margherita with. Making moves like this gives us the ability to cross-utilize and create something unique. That means when someone has a craving for our item, we’re the only option in town, rather than “Any Restaurant USA.”

Wines are a little trickier because it can get real expensive real quick when you choose “the best.” I suggest instead developing a varied list of craft wines that hit great margins. If you try them yourself and like them, you’re already ahead. It just takes effort to try them, which can be great, if professionally done off the clock. If alcohol isn’t for you, that’s cool too. This approach works for everything. Choose products you believe in so you can sell them with passion.

I say it’s a playlist because, like the music you play in your restaurant, you didn’t make it; you didn’t brew it; you just need to be smart enough to choose wisely. It’s not like your dough that takes years to master with endless trial and error. You just select the winners on this list. So don’t choose in a half-assed way. When done with passion and effort, the curated playlist approach, instead of “What’s popular, I guess I’ll sell that” will always yield more revenue and more return visits.

MIKE BAUSCH is the owner of Andolini’s Pizzeria in Tulsa, Oklahoma.  Instagram: @mikeybausch

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Explore ways to maximize mushrooms — Making Room https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/making-room-explore-ways-to-maximize-mushrooms/ Mon, 01 Mar 2021 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/making-room-explore-ways-to-maximize-mushrooms/ Explore Mushrooms on Pizza Pepperoni has one implementation on pizza. Pepperoni goes on top, before the bake like any other typical topping. The size and taste of the pepperonis will vary, but there aren’t multiple species of pepperoni. Mushrooms, by contrast, have so many variables that are incalculably different. There are over 10,000 species of […]

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Explore Mushrooms on Pizza

Pepperoni has one implementation on pizza. Pepperoni goes on top, before the bake like any other typical topping. The size and taste of the pepperonis will vary, but there aren’t multiple species of pepperoni. Mushrooms, by contrast, have so many variables that are incalculably different. There are over 10,000 species of mushrooms, 12 of which are incredibly popular for pizza. It’s essential to know how they’re used most often and why. Along with that, here are some new approaches with mushrooms that you can incorporate into your pizzeria today.

Growing up in both New York and California, I saw the stark difference in mushrooms on pizza from both coasts. The tri-state area’s East Coast kitchens seemed to be closet-sized and only carried canned mushrooms. When I moved to the Bay Area, I noticed a much different mushroom approach to pizza. California chains used fresh mushrooms that were dry and typically unseasoned. This is one in a long line of differences between these two different areas and their pizza approach in the mid-’90s.

I didn’t know why New York pizzerias used the canned mushroom. Was it the space thing? Was it because the other guy was using it? Was it because they genuinely liked it? Contrast that with the fresh mushrooms, which appeared as overly dry. This approach wasn’t ideal for maximizing flavor but did look better in a photo.

At the time, I didn’t think there was a right or wrong. After owning a pizzeria for as long as I have, I’ve seen every iteration of mushrooms on pizza. I know that no one way is wrong or right, but that there’s so much more that can be done with mushrooms. It’s truly a dark horse in the lineup when you consider all the potential iterations and combinations mushrooms provide.

Pre-marinated. By leaving mushrooms to soak in oil or dressing, you allow them to absorb flavor to go from merely a texture topping to a means of conveying flavor. By placing mushrooms in a marinade, you control the uniqueness. You can go to town on how much seasoning you give to it to make it your own. The best part of this approach is using these same mushrooms on a Caprese appetizer to cross utilize your mushrooms.

Sautéed. By sautéing mushrooms, either making it to order or in advance, it lets the mushroom get more flavor before they ever get to your pizza. You can also cook off a lot of the water that might make your pizza soggy. You can also sauté the marinated mushroom or pre-sauté and then marinate.

Under or Over

Some people love the look of a flat white mushroom on the top of their pizza, and that’s fine. That’s your call to make. If you want to protect the mushroom’s bake, putting it under the cheese is always an option.

Whether they’re pre-marinated, pre-baked or under the cheese, there are so many different approaches to mushrooms. Even when it’s the same mushroom, let alone the several varietals of mushroom available.

At Andolini’s, we make a wild mushroom pizza with several mushrooms of whatever is seasonally available. We also bake a classic sliced button mushroom and a sauteed portobello mushroom. On your straight-up mushroom, pre-marinating in olive oil with garlic or even lemon juice can help preserve or enhance the flavor.

 

Let’s look at three options:

Portabellos. I love portobello mushrooms. I love their ability to give a meaty vibe to a non-meat pizza. It provides a feeling of protein without protein. It also means you can sell a vegan pizza that has some character to it. When I first started, we would cook them to order, but I realized that doing a pre-sauté on them makes us more prepared for anything that could come at us. Over time, I’ve learned to have the kitchen ready for a 50 to 100 pizza order at any second. When you prepare for that volume level to occur sporadically, you create an inverse to Murphy’s law. If it can happen, it will, and you’ll be set up for a large order, which will, in turn, become several large orders.

For portabellos, we remove the gills with a spoon before the sauté. For classic button mushrooms, slicing them thinner helps reduce the amount of water that will occur when you bake them. But again, pre-baking a mushroom or pre-sauteing can get rid of excess water that could make for a soggy pizza. Or you could cook them as is and then drain your pizza, but it’s not ideal.

Truffles. Truffles on a pizza. If there’s one thing inherent about a truffle is that it equals instant classy. It’s an expensive item that knows it’s expensive and can garner more money per pizza. If that’s the restaurant style you are marketing, truffles are a great choice to instantly set you and your menu apart. Adding truffle oil as well will take the flavor over the top and drive the truffle point home.

Shitake. Shitake mushrooms are my favorite. I love how they don’t look the same, and when sautéed and used as a topping, they look artful and taste amazing. I prefer to sauté them in butter and bake with fresh mozzarella on top. Bear in mind, using butter for the sauté won’t land with health-conscious customers and immediately negates it from being vegan.

Regardless of what mushroom choice you have, know why you do it and then try it several different ways in a controlled test to determine what you like the most. When you try each mushroom, each particular way, you allow yourself the knowledge of why you made your choice, and that empowers you to sell it better. What you like the most will determine what you’re able to be passionate about and sell the most. Mushrooms are such an adaptable topping that to only have one mushroom in your pizzeria short-sighted. Choosing one is holding back from the menu possibilities mushrooms afford you; really lean in and make the menu say portobello and cremini instead of just one listing of “mushroom.” Actions like this instantly make your menu more upscale and more viable in the competitive market.

Mike Bausch  is the owner of Andolini’s Pizzeria in Tulsa, Oklahoma.

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Pastabilities: Adding vegan pastas to your menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/pastabilities-adding-vegan-pastas-to-your-menu/ Mon, 01 Mar 2021 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/pastabilities-adding-vegan-pastas-to-your-menu/   The plant-based movement has arrived if you haven’t noticed. “Plant-based” has now replaced “vegan” as the primary new term describing a diet that is animal product free. Being vegetarian can mean a number of things but just to set the record straight vegan or plant-based means eating nothing from an animal. (That includes eggs.) […]

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vegan Spaghetti Bolognese, Adding vegan pastas to your menu

Vegan Spaghetti Bolognese

 

The plant-based movement has arrived if you haven’t noticed. “Plant-based” has now replaced “vegan” as the primary new term describing a diet that is animal product free. Being vegetarian can mean a number of things but just to set the record straight vegan or plant-based means eating nothing from an animal. (That includes eggs.) When Burger King, White Castle and others start adding plant-based “meats” to their menu, somebody important in the corporation has realized that this market cannot be ignored. Restaurants are quickly realizing the potential of this exploding market. Customers are demanding these options more and more. The growing demand for plant-based products is an extremely positive trend forcing the food industry to offer these options. It’s a win/win for everyone. Customers get their options and corporations are able to serve a new market. The movement shows no signs of abating. For example, according to the Good Food Institute the market for plant-based has grown 29 percent in the last two years. The plant-based segment is the fastest growing sector of the food industry.

Let’s rewind a bit to understand why a plant-based diet is becoming more popular. Health and climate concerns are the chief motivating factors of the movement’s popularity. According to a study by The America Journal for Public Health, obesity has become a health crisis in the United States. This medical condition is linked to many diseases causing those suffering to look for alternative options to mainstream diets. Plant-based meat is much less damaging to the environment since emissions of greenhouse gasses are reduced by up to 90 percent when compared with conventional meat. Water pollution and nutrient pollution are also nearly entirely eliminated in many cases thanks to plant-based meat.

So, as you can see there are many reasons why your customers are now more and more demanding plant-based options. As I always say, there’s a vegan in every family. This is an important point for our restaurants. These “influencers” often make the decision about where the family eats. If a restaurant has good vegan options, it’s entirely likely that this establishment will be chosen over one that has no vegan options.

Let’s talk about plant-based pastas. Pasta is one of the best foods for someone to make a transition from a “meat” centered diet to a “plant-based” centered diet. It’s also one of the best, easiest and cheapest ways for a food establishment to offer vegan options to its customers. Everyone loves and eats pastas. It’s one of the first solid meals given to children. The most famous pasta dish, spaghetti and red sauce is vegan by default. At its basic level a plant-based diet is based on simplicity and cleanliness.

The first step to vegan pasta is to avoid pasta that contains egg. Obviously, egg while controversially vegetarian is not vegan. Most pastas do not contain egg but it’s better to make sure. A restaurant does not want to make the mistake of serving a non-vegan pasta dish advertised as vegan or plant-based.

I will explain my three go-to vegan pasta dishes which are easy to make, delicious and quite deceptive in the sense of being hard to detect that there are no animal products in these dishes. They are:

• Spaghetti Bolognese. This is a version of the classic Italian Bolognese traditionally done with Tagliatelle. Tagliatelle contains egg. Spaghetti does not. The first ingredient you need is a plant-based “meat” crumble. There are many options and brands now a days like Gardein, Nightlife, Morning Star, Beyond Meat, Hungry Planet, Be Hive and others. The simplest way to make it is sauté the meat crumble in garlic and olive oil until done, then add tomato sauce and simmer for about half hour. You can make the tomato sauce yourself or use ready-to-serve products. Then add the sauce to the spaghetti with some dried oregano, mix it well and serve. This was a crowd hit at the Pizza Expo. People were blown away by how good it was and they couldn’t believe it was vegan. To add some complexity and texture sauté chopped carrots, onions and celery in with the vegan ground “beef”.

• Penne Pesto. The second pasta is making a traditional pesto sauce but use nutritional yeast instead of Parmesan in your recipe making it just as flavorful without the dairy. Nutritional yeast can be purchased at grocery stores. Your food supplier should be able to get a hold of it or they may even carry it themselves. These days, so many vegan products are available through large food distributers. This wasn’t the case just seven years ago when I started my first pizzeria. For the pesto pasta, I like penne pasta but really any pasta can be used.

• Canestri Cacio e Pepe. It’s a vegan take on the classic Roman dish. It’s just pepper and “cheese.” I prefer Canestri pasta (similar to a large elbow pasta). This is hard to find so you can use spaghetti or any other pasta for that matter. There are many ways to make this vegan. I’ll give the quick and the long version. The quick version is to use just some of the pasta water, olive oil and a ton of nutritional yeast, then add cracked black pepper and salt. (You can also use vegan butter instead of olive oil. The long version is to use cashew cheese. Put raw cashews, olive oil, salt, lemon juice, water and garlic in a food processor and blend to a creamy texture. Use water to control the texture. Add mixture to pasta then add pepper and nutritional yeast (optional).

The beauty of plant-based foods is that it gets chefs and restaurant owners to think creatively while at the same time they are doing something that is very positive for human health and the environment. They also taste pretty good by the way. Good luck!

SCOTT SANDLER owns Pizza Head in St. Louis, Missouri and is a frequent speaker at Pizza Expo and Pizza and Pasta Northeast.

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Latin-inspired Pizzas: Bold times call for a boldly flavored pizza https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/latin-inspired-pizzas-bold-times-call-for-a-boldly-flavored-pizza/ Mon, 01 Feb 2021 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/latin-inspired-pizzas-bold-times-call-for-a-boldly-flavored-pizza/ Such a Jerk The Latin world is a diverse, colorful, vibrant and flavorful realm. More than 30 countries in South America, Central America, North America (Mexico) and the Caribbean Islands comprise Latin America. The topography and cultural influences of such a vast area varies greatly; as such, so do the favored cuisines. One of my […]

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jerk chicken pizza, latin-inspired pizza

Such a Jerk

The Latin world is a diverse, colorful, vibrant and flavorful realm. More than 30 countries in South America, Central America, North America (Mexico) and the Caribbean Islands comprise Latin America. The topography and cultural influences of such a vast area varies greatly; as such, so do the favored cuisines.

One of my personal favorite dishes hails from Jamaica: Jerk chicken. It is said that African descendants in Jamaica created the jerk cooking technique by using a dry rub comprised of various Jamaican spices and then slow cooking the meat (most often chicken, but also pork or goat or even other foods) over a fire. Boldly flavored, jerk chicken has a kick as well as a sweetness to it that I’ve always enjoyed.

As we start to look towards spring in the coming months, I tend to start seeking out a little more flair to contrast the “comfort food” I typically enjoy in the somber winter. Seeing a Jerk Chicken Pizza on a menu always brightens my day!

A few years ago, my friend John Gutekanst — a prolific contributor to Pizza Today and Pizza Expo, supplied me with this Jerk Sauce recipe. The sauce is easy to make, crazy flavorful and just plain good. Dig it.

Get these recipes:

Jamaican Jerk Sauce

Jamaican Jerk Chicken Pizza

 

JEREMY WHITE is Editor-in-Chief of Pizza Today.

 

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Hoagie’s Heroes: Sandwich Menu Ideas https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/hoagies-heroes-sandwich-menu-ideas/ Mon, 01 Feb 2021 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/hoagies-heroes-sandwich-menu-ideas/ Specialty sandwiches can be a much needed boost to your menu Not many businesses have such overlapping culinary footprints as pizzerias and sandwich places. Both have a base of wheat followed by cheeses, vegetables, proteins and even cold greens. Therefore, many pizzerias like mine were able to jump into the sandwich scene with a splash […]

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Pesto Super Chicken Meatball Submarine

Specialty sandwiches can be a much needed boost to your menu

Not many businesses have such overlapping culinary footprints as pizzerias and sandwich places. Both have a base of wheat followed by cheeses, vegetables, proteins and even cold greens. Therefore, many pizzerias like mine were able to jump into the sandwich scene with a splash like a fat dude off the high dive. By researching hot sandwiches, training staff and adjusting existing infrastructure, I was able to start this new food item in our fifth year. We then began letting customers try the new lineup free or with deep discounts, and we bundled with pizzas to get customers addicted. I was all in on this new lineup because I knew that meekness would lead to lackluster sales and a failed plan, so I went big. But first, I needed mentorship.

 

The Sandolorians

Nearly 15 years ago, I sought sandwich help from professionals who had been in this business for a long time. I contacted Pizza Paul Nyland, Big Dave Ostrander and Pat Bruno, who always offered his sandwich support by saying stuff like, “John, that’s the stupidest sandwich I’ve ever heard of…” All three of these great guys said that to start a hot sandwich line, you must ask yourself a few questions, because…this is the way.

  • Who would be my sandwich customers? How much would they pay?
  • What hot sandwiches would appeal to these customers?
  • What was my food cost on these sandwiches?
  • Which sandwich shop nearby is the best, and what do they serve?
  • How would I manipulate my operation and capital equipment to start a hot sandwich line?

These questions are answered differently depending upon the market you live in. I decided to make my own large round sandwich buns and slice them horizontally in three tiers, calling them “Boulders” (since my shop is named Avalanche.) My motive was that if I had to bring out a sandwich line, I would go for GLUTTANY! Yes, my target audience was young, ravenous and would love to eat a sandwich that was as big as their face. I was determined to stand out, make something incredible and charge a little extra for the hassle of making a huge hot sandwich while we were busy with pizzas.

 

Melter Skelter

The Sandwich: The best way to find out which hot sandwiches sell is to steal information from other sandwich makers. Menus are the open book into any food establishment. By seeing what specialty sandwiches other places have on their menus, you can get a great indication what customers are already buying. The flip side of this coin is to gauge what items they don’t sell that would make you stand out from that crowd of pizza/sandwich shops.

Bread: Most food purveyors have cooked or par-cooked buns, these usually come in frozen. These buns will cut into your food cost but may free you up from the dough labor. We started with pre-cooked buns but realized that .90 cents each was not sustainable. We now make our own buns with the same pizza dough modified with higher hydration, longer holding time as well as other secrets, (Message me for that stuff.)

Intertwine your Menu: The best way to make your sandwiches sing without driving yourself nuts is to use your existing food. Chicken, salami, pepperoni, ham, shredded cheese, tomato, sausage, banana peppers, jalapeño’s, beef, and meatballs are all great hot sandwich toppings. Wing sauce, Ranch, pestos, Gorgonzola, feta, Asiago, sliced provolone and even your proprietary pizza sauce are great finishes.

Infrastructure: What ovens are you going to make this hot sandwich with? Conveyors are good for consistency, especially when you have an oven staff that is less trained. Unfortunately, the adjustable entry and exit slots may only accommodate two inches for pizzas. You may have to adjust these (which will release more hot air into your pizzeria). Deck ovens without timers will place the baking process in the hands of your oven staff. This can raise consistency issues as these decks can burn the bottoms of buns while not melting the top cheese.

Other New Equipment: Your entry into the hot sandwich market may depend upon what your new equipment is. Panini sandwiches are popular with a certain segment of the population. Fast is king nowadays. How about using a hot pot usually used for soups to store a hot protein such as pulled pork and top the hot meat right on the bun? Super toasters can blast a bun and cheese with ease in just 60 seconds. You will need the room, the training and the clean-up.

 

Grinder Finder

By seeking out and grabbing your bit of sandwich history, you will be able to connect with your customers past and the taste profiles that they love. Here are a few iconic sandwiches from the past and the regions they are from.

Louisville: The Hot Brown — open faced with turkey, Mornay sauce (Béchamel or “Alfredo” with Gruyere chese) topped with tomato and bacon.

New Orleans: Muffuletta — round bread with cold cuts, melting cheese, giardiniera and chopped olives.

Omaha: Hot Corned beef, sauerkraut, swiss cheese and Russian dressing.

Philadelphia: Cheesesteak ­­— seared thin sliced steak with melted cheese and optional “wit wiz” and “wit grilled onions.”

Chicago: Italian Beef — thinly sliced beef dipped in au jus (gravy) served on Italian hoagie, served “wet” (dipped) or with cheese and spicy giardiniera.

Here are a few others that I have found to be popular in pizza establishments like mine:

The Italian Meatball: Meatballs, marinara, mozzarella, provolone and Parmigiano baked to perfection.

The Italian: Salami, pepperoni, ham, turkey with cheese (all cooked hot in the oven) oregano, Italian dressing, mayo (sometimes) lettuce, pickles and tomato.

The Pesto Chicken: (An ode to Pat Bruno) Boneless chicken wings tossed in proprietary basil pesto, provolone, fresh mozzarella, pizza sauce, Parmigiano and fresh basil.

Hot Wing Sandwich: Buffalo wing sauce tossed with chicken, mozzarella, provolone, gorgonzola, baked in the oven then topped with Ranch and stabbed with a sharpened stalk of celery.

 

A Field Guide to preparing Meatballs

These secrets may save you time, hassles and ruined meatballs.

  1. They need lightness. Ricotta cheese is perfect for airy meatballs.
  2. All meatballs need fat. Ground chuck is perfect, as well as ground pork shoulder. Adding fat from charcuterie and bacon ends is even better so cut, freeze and save that stuff.
  3. Binding them is an art. Just enough egg and breadcrumbs are the key to keeping it all together. Panko breadcrumbs soak up and bind better than hard regular crumbs.
  4. The use of 2-3-4-ounce ice cream scoops helps immensely. Fill these only once to weigh a ball to specifications, then just use the scoop for the rest.
  5. Roasting is the most efficient way to cook meatballs. Braising in liquid tends to soak and weaken meatballs, sauté pans provide only bottom heat.
  6. Parchment rules. Butter and olive oil will burn the bottom of meatballs, parchment will eliminate the fat that caramelizes and burns under them.
  7. Heated meatballs with sauce on a bun will not seep through the bottom of the bread if you put a few slices of cheese under them. I prefer provolone for the flavor.

 

Pesto Super Chicken Meatball Submarine

Chicken meatballs are big now. This sub is very quick. The three chicken balls are heated in marinara and placed in a sub bun with provolone and fresh mozzarella. It is then heated to melt and topped with basil pesto, grated Parmigiano Reggiano, and fresh basil.

Get the Pesto Super Chicken Meatball Submarine recipe.

JOHN GUTEKANST  owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Menu Creativity in Small Markets https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/menu-creativity-in-small-markets/ Fri, 01 Jan 2021 05:02:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/menu-creativity-in-small-markets/ Biggeats Smalls “Normality is the great neurosis of civilization.” – Tom Robbins Owning a pizzeria in a small town is a matter of community. Your customers are neighbors, coaches, teachers, police, firemen and workers of all types. To stay in business in these small markets you must give your neighbors what they are used to. […]

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spinach artichoke pizza

Biggeats Smalls

“Normality is the great neurosis of civilization.”
– Tom Robbins

Owning a pizzeria in a small town is a matter of community. Your customers are neighbors, coaches, teachers, police, firemen and workers of all types. To stay in business in these small markets you must give your neighbors what they are used to. You can also introduce the creativity that will set you apart from these uninteresting but consistent corporate competitors down the street. With the Internet and creative cooking popularity on social media, customers are increasingly immersing themselves in the new culinary ingredients and trends. Luckily, your corporate pizza competitors do not do quality or creativity well. On the other hand, corporate saturation in small markets knocks out a lot of independent operators every year. Keeping your creative mojo working every day is the best leverage you have against corporate pizza, and by keeping an eye on the three I’s you will be able to dominate with culinary creativity.

Inspiration: This is what motivated you to get into this business in the first place! Inspiration lasso’s the positive energy in your mind. It can be obtained from visiting other pizzerias, trolling pizza social media and websites, viewing chef movies or cookbooks or just giving some silly thoughts room to grow in your mind. This “what if…” moment jolts you to act. Nothing is crazy in an inspired mind.

Imagination: This is your ability to take an original thought in your mind and create something that you and your customers have not experienced. Some say this is more important than knowledge because imagination embraces the entire world of your mind. Your feelings, fantasies, memories and inner experiences rush past all negativity and boundaries to a place where everything is possible.

Insight: This is truly where the rubber hits the road for any restaurateur. Insight takes all the imagination and inspiration and binds it with facts, details, history, and your reality to make a transformation of thought. I find that pizza schools, mentors, other competitors and even customers who say, “Have you ever thought about…” offer the best insight into creating the most insightful pizzas around.

Fourth Eye Blind

Insanity: Over 20 years, I have gone “all in” on some insane pizzas. I like to describe them as “Disgustalicious”, and they tend to be highly marketable (especially late at night.) I usually send them to some prestigious chefs nearby to get testimonials like, “This pizza is WRONG on every level!” And “It’s a heart attack in a box!”

Bride of Wonderboy: Based on the Jack Black song, this monster has a hot dog and mustard stuffed crust, mac and cheese sauce, mozzarella, provolone, bacon, beef, tomatoes, pickles, onions, oven-ready French fries on top and a generous squeeze of ketchup across the top after the oven bake.

Death Pickle for Cutie: This great band visited us for a festival, and we were ready. Béchamel cream, Asiago, cheddar and provolone cheeses with tons of dill pickles and topped with oven-ready French Fries and a heavy topping of ranch dressing.

The Meat Romney: This lunatic-fringe pizza dominated during the elections. TWO pounds of local sausage made into a 12-inch disc was par-cooked and frozen. When the customer called in and “voted,” by referring to this pizza as a “Meat Romney” or a “Barack Obameat.” We would then cook it with our marinara, mozzarella and topped with wall-to-wall pepperoni. We tallied the votes at the end and had a cool election.

Strip Club

If you strip everything down to the bare bones in a pizzeria, it all comes down to base, sauce, cheese and toppings. These elements can be manipulated in millions of ways to capture a customer’s attention. Here are a few things you can do to stand out in a small town.

The Base: A crust can be manipulated ANY WAY YOU WANT. Whole grain crusts, 00 flour, thin crusts, thick Sicilian-style crusts, Detroit-style crusts, “Grandma” crusts, Long Pizza al Metro crusts, Spanish Coca-style crusts, Calzone, Stromboli, Cheese bread, Thin Arabic Manoushe, French Pissalidiere, Knotted crusts, Crusty Garlic knots, Topping-filled dough, Brioche and Semolina all can turn customers into fanatics.

The Sauce is the Boss: Adding sauces to any pizza is both easy and can radically transform a boring pizza into a winner. Pestos, chili-spiced Sauce, cheese with cream sauce, chunky tomato sauce, sauce on top of cheese, dipping sauces, Asian-inspired sauces, Teriyaki, BBQ sauce, fruit-based sauces, mustard sauces and vegetable purees can make for fabulous pizza products.

Cheeses: Even though some cheeses may be expensive does not mean you have to use a lot. For example, a few slices of French Brie after the oven can draw sales. The taste of an aged Gouda or Asiago is masterful on a cream sauce. Gorgonzola, Blue, Stilton, Feta, Chevre, Gruyere, Monterey Jack, Kashkaval, Havarti, Halloumi, Manchego, Pecorino, Teleggio and even Vegan cheeses all add outstanding flavor value to a pie.

Toppings: Usually the first word to describe a pizza is the topping, so here is where quality counts. If you use the same toppings as your corporate competitor, you have lost the chance at beating them with quality and flavor. Local chicken, ground beef, sausage and ham set you apart from any corporate nugg. Local ranchers and butchers all have ham and bacon ends. (Butchers cannot afford the labor or danger in cutting the last pieces of bacon and ham.) They always sell these cuts cheaply. When you buy locally, you bring in whole farming families into your orbit. They will always be on your side.

Spinach Artichoke Pizza

We have had these two ingredients on our menu since opening 20 years ago. This is a very popular pizza and is sometimes described by my staff to customers as “spinach-artichoke dip on acid.” The marinated artichoke halves are both sweet, acidic and garlicy — and look beautiful on each slice. And the tomato garnish finishes off this pie well.

Get the Spinach Artichoke Pizza Recipe.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Lasagna: Versatile Favorite https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/lasagna-versatile-favorite/ Fri, 01 Jan 2021 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/lasagna-versatile-favorite/ Lasagna aligns well with today’s menu needs Lasagna is not only a delicious and classic comfort food, it’s also easy to make, customizable and profitable. Bonus: it travels well in the right packaging. Take all this into consideration and it becomes clear that lasagna, if you offer pasta dishes, deserves a spot on your menu. […]

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Eggplant Lasagna

Lasagna aligns well with today’s menu needs

Lasagna is not only a delicious and classic comfort food, it’s also easy to make, customizable and profitable. Bonus: it travels well in the right packaging. Take all this into consideration and it becomes clear that lasagna, if you offer pasta dishes, deserves a spot on your menu.

Much like pizza, this is a chameleon of a dish. While the requisite red sauce is a fan favorite, lasagna can also be made with a cream-based sauce like Alfredo, a carbonara, a primavera, or even with a vinegar-based hot sauce if you’re going for a Buffalo Chicken vibe. While you want to give a nod to history and stick to basics, you can also let your mind run wild a bit when it comes to Limited Time Offers, etc.

If you can boil pasta, you can build a great lasagna. The trick? Price it to maximize profits! A heaping plate of lasagna, while carrying low cost, can demand a high price point.

Here’s a classic Lasagna recipe to get you started.

Traditional Lasagna

Get the Traditional Lasagna Recipe.

One of my favorite lasagna dishes features a creamy Alfredo sauce with chicken, spinach and a hint of lemon. It’s basic, yet delicious, and particularly satisfies that need for rich comfort foods during the winter months. But Alfredo doesn’t necessarily travel as well as other options, so for this go-round let’s instead look into a dish that will do as well on the road as in a dine-in setting.

Veggie Lasagna

Get the Veggie Lasagna Recipe.

 

JEREMY WHITE  is Editor-in-Chief of Pizza Today.

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Add trending chicken pizzas to your menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/add-trending-chicken-pizzas-to-your-menu/ Fri, 01 Jan 2021 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/add-trending-chicken-pizzas-to-your-menu/ Winner, Winner, Chicken Dinner Chicken deserves its rightful place on pizza menus. Did you know Americans eat nearly 65 pounds of chicken per person each year? In fact, poultry is the most consumed meat in the U.S. As pizza toppings go, chicken is a versatile one. It can be sourced uncooked or precooked. Raw chicken […]

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fried chicken pizza

Winner, Winner, Chicken Dinner

Chicken deserves its rightful place on pizza menus. Did you know Americans eat nearly 65 pounds of chicken per person each year? In fact, poultry is the most consumed meat in the U.S.

As pizza toppings go, chicken is a versatile one. It can be sourced uncooked or precooked. Raw chicken can be cooked ahead, divided and stored in the refrigerator for one to two days. But, be sure you are following all food safety practices. Chicken can be shredded, diced or sliced. It is a perfect canvas to infuse flavors into, whether that’s barbecue, Buffalo, Italian, Caribbean, curry, Tandoori, Peri Peri, Southwest, taco, bourbon, Montreal, lemon herb, garlic Parmesan, honey mustard, ginger sesame, or just about any seasoning combination you can come up with.

Depending on how it’s prepared, chicken can also be a healthier option for a low-calorie menu when combined with other healthy ingredients.

Pizza topping combinations are endless. Get creative with your chicken combination pizzas. We have some trending chicken pizza ideas for you to test out and make your own.

 

chicken taco pizzaTacos or Pizza? Or Taco Pizza

Taco pizzas can be a crowd pleaser. You can spin it with any style that will resonate with your customers, like mole, adobo, Tinga, Tex-Mex or chipotle. Toppings can be simple or varied. Here’s a chicken taco pizza recipe to try out:

Chicken Taco Pizza

Get the Chicken Taco Pizza Recipe.

 

It’s all Greek to Me

Go lighter with a Greek chicken pizza. A simple menu addition is pizza with grilled chicken strips, spinach and Kalamata olive halves, finished with feta and a squeeze of lemon. For another
option that taps into the authentic flavors of Greece, we turn to the late, great Pat Bruno, who spent many years as a Pizza Today columnist and food critic for the Chicago Sun-Times, for the Pizza alla Greco recipe, as follows:

Pizza alla Greco

Get the Pizza alla Greco Recipe.

 

The Comeback of Fried Chicken

Breaded and fried chicken are back in a major way. Just look at the fried chicken sandwich war that has engulfed nearly every fast food restaurant. Does breaded chicken deserve its place on pizza? You bet it does. Nashville hot chicken pizzas have caught fire across the country, and so will buttermilk fried chicken pizzas. I’m about to get controversial for those that are anti-Ranch dressing on pizza. But, nothing finishes a fried chicken pizza with a mozzarella and white cheddar blend, jalapeños and cilantro like a drizzle of Ranch dressing. You could even spicy up the dressing with sriracha.

Mimic the fast-food favorite sandwich, but offer a pizza with strips of fried chicken breast on an olive oil base, mozzarella and finished with pickle and your favorite drizzle sauce.

Offer fried chicken strips as an add-on to other menu favorites, like BLT or Hawaiian pizzas. Get your culinary juices flowing with something completely your own by testing two or three different toppings, sauces and finishes that are specific to your pizzeria, town or region.

 

You Can’t Go Wrong with Buffalo Chicken

We can’t talk about chicken pizzas without including the Pizza Today Test Kitchen favorite, Buffalo Chicken Pizza. There is no one perfect way to get a Buffalo chicken pizza right. There are so many versions. But the basic ingredients are chicken, Buffalo hot sauce, a creamy dressing and cheese. The chicken can be shredded, sliced or diced. It can even be breaded and deep fried. Typical veggie options include scallions, red onions, green onions, celery, pickles, banana peppers, jalapenos or other spicy peppers. You can use Blue Cheese or Ranch or both. Traditional cheeses include mozzarella, Monterey Jack and Bleu Cheese crumbles. Cilantro or chives are popular herbs. Mix and match ingredients using our version of a Buffalo Chicken Pizza as a base.

Go to PizzaToday.com/recipes/pizzas for more chicken pizza ideas.  

DENISE GREER is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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2021 Menu Guide https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/2021-menu-guide/ Tue, 01 Dec 2020 05:03:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/2021-menu-guide/ Get appetizer, pizza, main dish and dessert recipes to take your menu into 2021. Serrano Peach Pizza with Bacon JOSH’S PICK  I will defend fruit on a pizza until my dying day. Combine it with bacon and it wins everytime.   Mortadella and Pistachio Pizza Katie’s PICK  Mortadella and pistachio together are a very trendy […]

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2021 menu guide

Get appetizer, pizza, main dish and dessert recipes to take your menu into 2021.

Serrano, peach, pizza, bacon

Serrano Peach Pizza with Bacon

JOSH’S PICK  I will defend fruit on a pizza until my dying day. Combine it with bacon and it wins everytime.

 

mortadella, pizza, pistachios, burrata,

Mortadella and Pistachio Pizza

Katie’s PICK  Mortadella and pistachio together are a very trendy combination, and not without good reason! The crunch of the pistachio paired with the soft mortadella is fantastic.

 

Fowl Play

Alamo Pie

Barbecue Shrimp Pizza

 

southwest heat, pizza, avocado, recipe

Southwest Heat

Jeremy’s PICK  You like it hot? Yeah, I thought so. I do, too. Here you go. Light your senses on fire, then, fellow pyromaniacs. Keep some milk nearby if ghost peppers aren’t your thing.

 

royale with cheese, cheese combinations pizza

The Royale with Cheese

DENISE’S PICK  What’s so great about a cheese pizza?” Everything! The dynamite blend of contrasting cheeses is hard to get right. But, John Gutekanst has perfected a cheese pizza.”

 

Soppressata & Frittata Panini

 

Angry Meatball and Ricotta Pizza, recipe

Angry Meatball and Ricotta Pizza

 

Fusilli Primavera

Pizza Sub

Sausage Stuffed Bell Peppers

 

scrambled eggs and bacon pizza, sriracha, avocado, square pie

Sriracha-Cha-Cha Scrambled Eggs and Bacon Pizza

Katie’s PICK  I am a firm believer that breakfast pizza should be more widely accepted. Starting your day with a slice of this, a good day is guaranteed.

 

Fried Brussels Sprout Chips

Fried Brussels Sprout Chips

Josh’s  PICK  My favorite test kitchen dish the past year wasn’t even a pizza. It was this. I didn’t share.

 

peaches and cream pizza

Peaches and Cream Pizza

Jeremy’s PICK  When the one and only Tony G. sends you a recipe, well … you know it’s going to impress. Peaches, when fresh picked at their height in summer, are my favorite fruit. When Tony provided us this recipe, I drooled just reading it. I knew it was going to be pure magic. And, boy, I was not disappointed! The spiced walnuts, the cream, the salt … I don’t know where to start. It’s an entrée, or dessert, or both rolled into one. It’s perfect.

 

upside down pizza, recipe, tony gemignani,

Upside Down Pizza

DENISE’S PICK  Sometimes it pays off to doing things in a different order. The result is one of my favorite pizzas we’ve ever made in the Test Kitchen. The beauty is in the room temperature rise.

 

Sausage and Cheese Ravioli

Chicken Cheese Steak Sandwich

Pasquale’s Pasta Salad

Tomato and Spinach Pasta

Fettucini Carbonara

 

pickle chips, fried pickles

Pickle Chips

I HATE PICKLES! But I love this spicy, fried app that happens to be pickles. I’ve made these several times, altering the heat and spice levels each time.

 

summertime pie, zucchini, tomato, ricotta, pizza

Summertime Pie

Katie’s PICK  Is there anything better than fresh, homegrown produce in the summer? Combining all of the best summertime produce could never be a bad thing.

 

prosciutto, arugula, pizza

Prosciutto Arugula Pizza

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How to Evaluate Kitchen Equipment Purchases https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/how-to-evaluate-kitchen-equipment-purchases/ Tue, 01 Dec 2020 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/how-to-evaluate-kitchen-equipment-purchases/ Updating Your Kitchen Workhorses Pizza comes to life in the kitchen. Thus, it’s essential to put in the right appliances to make and sell pies. Yet there’s no guidebook to follow when buying an oven or dough mixer, as your specific needs will depend on factors ranging from your pizza style to your production needs […]

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kitchen equipment

Updating Your Kitchen Workhorses

Pizza comes to life in the kitchen. Thus, it’s essential to put in the right appliances to make and sell pies. Yet there’s no guidebook to follow when buying an oven or dough mixer, as your specific needs will depend on factors ranging from your pizza style to your production needs and budget. “Purchasing equipment for a pizza restaurant is a big undertaking,” says Chuck Sillari, founder of Mortadella Head in Somerville, Massachusetts.

The next time you need to invest in kitchen equipment, use the following criteria to decide which model to get.

The Pros and Cons of Buying Used

“There are always restaurants going out of business, which means used equipment is always an easy option,” says Sillari, who has purchased equipment for several establishments. In addition to used pieces being readily available, the price is typically lower than what you’ll pay for new equipment. In his experience, Sillari has occasionally purchased multiple pieces for a really good deal at auctions for eateries going out of business. “We’ll buy a few pieces that we don’t even need in the present moment, and put them away for that time to come,” he says. This strategy works well if you have room to store pieces that you can then bring out later when they are needed.

Getting used equipment has certain drawbacks, including the form of payment. You may have to pay for the equipment up front rather than making installments over time through financing plans. Furthermore, you won’t get a warranty, notes Avni Latifi, owner of Harry’s Pizza Market in Sheboygan, Wisconsin. There are usually no written manuals included in used gear and you could have a hard time getting technical support if the equipment breaks down. It can also be tough to find a size that fits exactly in the kitchen space you currently have.

When to Purchase New Equipment

“Buying new equipment makes it easier to design your ideal kitchen,” Sillari says. “You’ll be able to order pieces of equipment that will fit where you need them.” You’ll also often get a warranty that will cover costs if something needs to be fixed or replaced. Generally, it costs more to buy new equipment, but you can often get financing options to spread out payments.

The style of pizza you produce can also help guide the decision-making process. In 2019, Latifi went to Miami, Florida, to attend the Roman Pizza Academy, LLC. He got certified in Roman Al Taglio Pizza and now runs Harry’s Pizza Market with his wife Laurie. Their eatery is the first certified Roman al Taglio-style pizza restaurant in the state of Wisconsin.

During his training sessions at the Roman Pizza Academy, Latifi got to see firsthand the oven used in class that was specifically designed for Roman al Taglio pizza. It was a Moretti Forni Pizza Oven (P120E B2X) from Ampto. He found it to be durable and selected the same model for his restaurant. The oven, along with the pieces that go with it such as blue steel pans that are cured and then used to cook the pizzas, work well together. The pans have an X formed in them and the bottom rises slightly, coinciding with the X formation. This way, “the heat gets under it,” Latifi says. “The bottom looks like it gets done perfectly, which is very hard to achieve with a wood or gas oven.”

Think about Parts

Whether you purchase new or used kitchen equipment, consider the manufacturer. Check if the company has been in business for an extended period, if it has a good reputation, and if it makes parts for the model you’re considering. A well-established company that produces consistent parts over time could be helpful if you need to repair an appliance. “A good example is Bakers’ Pride ovens,” says Nancy Jo Seaton, president and owner of Seaton Food Consultants. “They last a very long time and the manufacturer does not go through dramatic model renovation, so parts are readily available, even for the very old models.”

Consider Visibility

For equipment that will be tucked away behind doors in the kitchen, you may not have to worry that much about appearance. In places set up to give customers a full culinary experience and watch food being prepared, looks will play a bigger role. “If you’re going to hide it in the back, dents and scratches won’t matter,” says Seaton, who has a background in pizza equipment sales. “If it will be customer facing, it better be beautiful.”

Look at Temperature

Kitchen equipment can impact your place’s HVAC system. Once after purchasing used equipment, Sillari found it threw the balance off in the kitchen. “Buying new equipment allows you to understand how it will impact the temperature in the kitchen, which in turn will allow the equipment to run better,” he says. “This is especially true when it comes to refrigerated pizza benches.”

Evaluate the Need for Training

“Who’s using the equipment?” Seaton asks. If you get a good deal on a piece of equipment that requires many steps or special skills to use correctly, you may have to train staff members so they can operate it. If it’s complicated to carry out a process on a piece of equipment, you also run the risk of workers causing harm to the machine. “Sometimes it’s prudent to pay a bit extra for ease of operations to avoid unnecessary damage through misuse,” Seaton says.

How to Calculate the ROI

When selecting kitchen pieces, you’ll want to make sure you get a solid return. “In the end, you should choose equipment that will deliver on your investment,” says Nancy Jo Seaton, president and owner of Seaton Food Consultants. “Make sure it pays for itself over a reasonable amount of time.” For example, say you’re going to make 100 pizzas a day at a profit of $10 each, and the oven you’re considering costs $10,000. It will take 100 operating days to pay for the oven.

RACHEL HARTMAN  is a freelance writer who covers small business, finance and lifestyle topics.

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Winter Menu: Warm & Cozy https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/winter-menu-warm-cozy/ Sun, 01 Nov 2020 13:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/winter-menu-warm-cozy/   Add more comfort foods to your winter menu With all of the chaos happening in the world right now, I’ve been actually looking forward to winter. Yes, I know it won’t magically wipe away all of the problems that seem to grow daily. But in a small way it seems like a clean slate. […]

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Potato and Poblano Pizza

Potato and Poblano Pizza

 

Add more comfort foods to your winter menu

With all of the chaos happening in the world right now, I’ve been actually looking forward to winter. Yes, I know it won’t magically wipe away all of the problems that seem to grow daily. But in a small way it seems like a clean slate. The fires will be out and the colder months are a time to slow things down a bit. It also means a change of season and produce, an opportunity to mix up your menu. Who knows exactly what will happen in this Covid world, so it’s a good idea to be prepared by adding a few extra comfort foods to your rotation as well as items that can easily be made to go.

While the winter months don’t offer the abundance of produce that summer provides, there are certain vegetables that we can count on. Greens, for one. This is a great time to play around with some of the heartier varieties. Kale, of course, but there are so many more. Collard and mustard greens, escarole, chard and arugula. The great thing about greens is that they are so versatile, not only on a pizza but throughout your whole menu. They can go on before the pie is baked or topped after it comes out of the oven. You can sauté them with garlic, olive oil, chili flakes and lemon as a side dish or massage them with a bright vinaigrette for a salad.

Then there are potatoes. Definitely my second favorite carbohydrate after dough of any kind. In Italy, pizza con patate, or pizza with potatoes, is seen all over. You can slice the potatoes super thin and layer them on top of the dough, seasoned with some rosemary, extra virgin olive oil and sea salt.  Alternatively, they are great mashed up with bacon and chives. You can even mix potatoes into the dough itself to create a more tender crumb. One of my recent favorite combinations is paper thin potatoes with roasted poblano peppers and garlic. If you have a deep fryer you can dress it up a little more by frying a few slices of lemon as a garnish.

In the same family as potatoes are other root vegetables. While I don’t love turnips as much as potatoes, they are fantastic as base vegetables. Use them in side dishes or cooked down with braised meats. The winter months are definitely a time for slow cooking so if your shop has the capacity to offer up some meat or vegetable entrees other than pizza, I can’t imagine a better time.

Winter squash is another vegetable that can be prepped in numerous different ways. It is fantastic roasted and pureed as a base for pizza or cubed as a topping. It can be made savory or sweet. I’ve done different events the last few years and made a variation of a squash pie for both. The first year I did roasted butternut with Swiss chard, caramelized onions and a balsamic reduction. Last year I changed it up with roasted Delicata squash with broccoli Raab, stracciatella, Calabrese honey and spiced pumpkin seeds. The great thing about a lot of the heartier winter vegetables is that you don’t need to add meat, they hold up just fine on their own. If you’re putting roasted squash on a pie it just makes sense that you would also use it as a side dish or as a component in a salad.

I’ve noticed in the colder months and all summer during the pandemic, that our sales of cooked vegetable sides have gone way up. People feel safer eating something that has been fully cooked or has the potential to be reheated. Comfort and safety sold in a side of Brussels sprouts.

Brussels sprouts are one of those vegetables that, as a kid, you are not supposed to like. However, as you become an adult you realize they are simply one of the best things ever. My friend Susan first re-introduced them to me, cooking them down with bacon and leeks. They are also amazing bathed in brown butter or flash fried with capers and lemon. While they are not in the traditional mix of pizzeria veggies, Brussels are a sleeper ingredient on a pizza. We toss them together with other roasted veggies and spinach or pair with pancetta and onions. They can also level up a marinara with roasted garlic and Italian white anchovies.

All summer I’ve been talking about adding a take-and-bake lasagna to my menu. It seems like the perfect meal for the times. The layers of ricotta, mozzarella, sauce and pasta just scream comfort to me. If things get bad again, it is also something that customers can easily pick up early in the day and cook at home. If you’re pizzeria is like mine, with our only source of cooking being our pizza oven, having menu items that we only assemble but don’t bake off is also a huge bonus.

Whether the winter months encourage you to add more items to your menu or just change up the ones you already have, there are plenty of options to play around with. The colder season entices people to buckle down. I’ll be the first to admit that with all of the chaos happening, all I want after work is a nice glass of whiskey and a huge hit of comfort.

 

Potato and Poblano Pizza

Get the Potato and Poblano Pizza recipe.

 

Audrey Kelly  is the owner and pizzaiola at Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, CO.

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Man on the Street: Expanded Menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-expanded-menu/ Sun, 01 Nov 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/man-on-the-street-expanded-menu/ The pages of this magazine are always packed with creative ideas for running a better pizza business, but never before has doing so been so crucial. It’s no exaggeration to say that a business’s agility will spell the difference between survival and closure. In the past, the phrase “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” […]

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egg and ricotta pizza

The pages of this magazine are always packed with creative ideas for running a better pizza business, but never before has doing so been so crucial. It’s no exaggeration to say that a business’s agility will spell the difference between survival and closure. In the past, the phrase “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” was an acceptable way to avoid change. At this moment, we know that staying the same just isn’t a viable option. We’re fortunate to be in pizza because other restaurant types are not doing so well. The closure of independent restaurants presents an opening for survivors to fill in the gaps. I’ve noticed loads of pizzerias tweaking their menus to serve their customers as a means of surviving the pandemic.

Scott Wiener Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Scott Wiener
Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

If you already have an audience of devoted customers, why not go beyond your standard menu to keep them engaged? Lombardi’s in Manhattan has rarely deviated from pizza, calzones, and salads since reopening in 1994 (after an 8-year closure at their first location down the block). With tourism gone and foot traffic in their SoHo neighborhood way down, they’re addressing the reality of the situation by adding Italian American specialties like chicken parmesan and pasta to the mix. This boosts check averages for both dine-in and DELCO business and it’s an entirely different meal than the pizza they already offer. Long known for only selling whole pies, they’ve even started selling grandma pizza by the slice. That’s not even a pizza they offer for dine-in, so there’s still some exclusivity in the slice option.

Some pizzerias see this time as an opportunity to add items they’ve always wanted to offer. Apizza Scholls in Portland, OR just added calzones to their lunch menu. Owner Brian Spangler has been thinking about it for years but finally found the time to make it happen now that his business has been forced to streamline. Now he’s starting to play with thin crust pizza, which he’ll also offer in limited quantities at specific times. Also in Portland, Scottie’s Pizza Parlor recently added a Caesar salad to the menu after years of customer requests. The week it was launched, Scottie’s saw higher salad sales than any week since they opened five years ago.

When Saverio’s on Long Island was forced to temporarily close, they took the opportunity to experiment with Detroit style pizza. Now in addition to their beloved Neapolitan pizza, they offer their own take on the Motor City squares — and it sells out every week!

Looking towards the coming winter, Michael Ayoub is adding hot soups to the menu at his Brooklyn restaurant Fornino. It’s seasonal and unlike the rest of his pizza-focused menu, so there’s an opportunity for some press attention. It’s also an item that travels well in the bicycle messenger world of NYC restaurant delivery.

Pizza Tree in Columbia, MO knew they’d have trouble surviving by sticking to their core so they added breakfast pizza and bagels to the menu. That opened up an additional day part for them with zero investment in new equipment, just a little (delicious) R&D.

The next year isn’t going to be easy and everyone isn’t going to make it to the other side. The ones who do are going to be stronger than ever, and their menus will be super-charged.

SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org  Instagram: @scottspizzatours

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Man on the Street: Pepperoni Scare https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-pepperoni-scare/ Thu, 01 Oct 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/man-on-the-street-pepperoni-scare/ It’s without a doubt the most popular topping in America. A common stat claims that it’s on at least 36 percent of pizzas eaten in this country. Nearly every image of pizza on t-shirts, menus, and logos features it. The sheer ubiquity of it is why recent headlines warning about a massive pepperoni shortage caught […]

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pepperoni pizza

It’s without a doubt the most popular topping in America. A common stat claims that it’s on at least 36 percent of pizzas eaten in this country. Nearly every image of pizza on t-shirts, menus, and logos features it. The sheer ubiquity of it is why recent headlines warning about a massive pepperoni shortage caught me by surprise.

Scott Wiener Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Scott Wiener
Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

As popular as pepperoni is today, it wasn’t long ago that the spiced cured salami was nonexistent in pizzerias. Just last weekend I found an old wall menu from a pizzeria in upstate New York, probably from the 1940s, showing options for pizza with cheese, anchovies, sausage and mushrooms. No pepperoni at all. A 1940s menu from Mario’s Restaurant on Arthur Ave. in the Bronx also omits pepperoni. A 1930 menu from Sally’s in New Haven offers pizza with anchovies, bacon and even chicken — but no pepperoni. The earliest pepperoni advertisement I’ve found is from 1913, in which Gamba Bros (“The Leading Meat Market”) in Osage City, Kansas, refers to a luncheon meat as Mortadella Pepperoni. More ads appeared in 1920 for Casserta Pepperoni in Massachusetts and Alabama. While we can’t be sure these are the same product we enjoy on pizza today, it seems more likely than not. Those looking for America’s favorite topping in Italy will be out of luck. It doesn’t exist. Ordering peperoni will get you bell peppers, not the spicy smoky salami we hold so dear. Though there are spiced salami products throughout southern Italy, pepperoni is clearly an American invention.

It’s unclear exactly why pepperoni became the topping of choice in the U.S. but its popularity quickly escalated in the latter half of the 20th century. It’s flavorful, shelf stable, inexpensive, and visually appealing. The recent return of natural casing “cup and char” pepperoni has even birthed somewhat of a pepperoni renaissance! Pepperoni is such an essential, we now have vegetarian and vegan versions made with meat surrogates. Heck, I just saw a video of Rachael Ray simulating the flavor of pepperoni by coating slices of squash and zucchini with pepper, granulated garlic, mustard seed and fennel.

Some independent pizzerias have been experiencing increases of 50-100 percent thanks to the perfect storm that is COVID-19. According to Bloomberg, pepperoni supplies are low because its manufacture is complex and margins too slim to make it a priority. Workforce interruption back in April led meat companies to focus on unprocessed meat cuts that require less energy to produce. Combine that with an increased demand from home-bound pizza lovers and it’s easy to see why there’s a problem.

If we do have a pepperoni apocalypse on the horizon, I think we’ll be able to manage. To get the same blast of contrast we get from discs of red on molten cheese, I think there’s opportunity to be found by getting back to pepperoni’s roots with peppers, particularly the spicy varieties. Up your game by pickling your peppers to add an acidic punch. You can approximate the smoke and heat of pepperoni by employing seasonings like paprika, cayenne, garlic, and pepper flakes to other meats or even vegetables. Who’s going to be the first to market a pepperoni-tinged Bloody Mary?

While I don’t think this supply chain blip is going to become a serious issue, it is worth taking the opportunity to explore the potential of pepperoni flavor beyond the real thing.

SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org  Instagram: @scottspizzatours

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Building Blocks: Tips for a New Menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/building-blocks-tips-for-a-new-menu/ Thu, 01 Oct 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/building-blocks-tips-for-a-new-menu/ Utilize items that will excel I have the best pizza in the city!” Or at least that’s what most people say when they open a new shop. I never did. I just let the pizza speak for itself. Of course, over the last eight years and with the help of supremely talented people, our pizzas […]

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creating a menu

Utilize items that will excel

I have the best pizza in the city!” Or at least that’s what most people say when they open a new shop.

Nick Bogacz, founder and president of Caliente Pizza & Draft House, Pittsburgh

Nick Bogacz, founder and president of Caliente Pizza & Draft House in Pittsburgh

I never did. I just let the pizza speak for itself. Of course, over the last eight years and with the help of supremely talented people, our pizzas racked up a number of awards — and now we can show off in our marketing.

So, how can you turn a boast into the truth? It’s probably not going to happen the day you open your new store, but these tips will get your menu on its way.

When you hear a Billy Joel song on the radio, you know it’s Billy Joel. Similarly, when people bite into our pizza, I want them to know it’s our pizza. We’re unique.

While most towns have a handful of large-scale vendors that almost every pizzeria uses for ingredients, you shouldn’t. A lot of large distributors sell products from their own labels, which is why a lot of pizza tastes the same.

Find a smaller Italian-focused distributor, one that very few or, even better, none of your rivals are using. You’re on your way to that Billy Joel pizza.

Dough, sauce, cheese and pepperoni — get these correct first. You can have plans for other pies, but you have to nail the basics.

I recommend using a “tasting panel” of friends and family. Before we settled on the ingredients that would be the basis for many of our pies, it took me three dough recipes, hours with the “sauce lady,” a bunch of cheese samplings and even more pepperoni picking. You can grow from there, relying on your tasting panel for banana peppers, olives, spices, appetizers — anything.

Talking about the basics, if this is your first shop or you’re unsure about your culinary skills outside of pizza, stick with what you know. There’s no need to come up with 30 wing sauces or deep fry every vegetable you can find for an appetizer. First and foremost, customers want good pizza.

It’s fantastic if you can produce a bunch of specialty pies from the start, but maybe you can’t. The next best thing is to look at established pizzerias. Use their menus for inspiration. See a pie you like? You don’t need to steal the recipe, but you can put your own spin on the style. Over time, your creativity will catch up with you.

Don’t overdo it. Inspect your kitchen and prep area and understand what you’re capable of cooking.

Like steak on a pizza? What if you have nowhere to prepare it? Want to offer lasagna? What if it takes too much time to make?

If an item is a headache, cut it. You want your menu to be easy to execute so your kitchen runs as efficiently as possible.

At that point, your shop is open with a new menu and great pizza. Next month, we’ll begin Marketing 101.

NICK BOGACZ is the founder and president of Caliente Pizza & Draft House in Pittsburgh.  Instagram: @caliente_pizza

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Meatballs: Classic Favorite https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/meatballs-classic-favorite/ Thu, 01 Oct 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/meatballs-classic-favorite/ Meatballs can star on your menu in many categories Meatballs have seemingly been around forever. Everyone’s grandmother has a special recipe. They’re on menus in all parts of the country; sometimes as a starter, other times atop pizza. They’re easy to make from scratch, easy to work with and always a hit with customers. What’s […]

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meatballs

Meatballs can star on your menu in many categories

Meatballs have seemingly been around forever. Everyone’s grandmother has a special recipe. They’re on menus in all parts of the country; sometimes as a starter, other times atop pizza. They’re easy to make from scratch, easy to work with and always a hit with customers. What’s not to love about them?

With that in mind, is there a reason meatballs shouldn’t be on your menu? Moreover, considering the ease of making them from scratch, why wouldn’t you?

Many years ago, my friend and Pizza Today contributor — the late Pat Bruno – shared his love of meatballs with me. He taught me how he liked to make them, told me stories about them from his youth and taught me some tricks for keeping them moist. The thing that stuck with me the most, however, was the simplicity. “They’re just too easy,” he told me. “Everyone should be making them.”

He was right. They can offer a real point of difference for your pizzeria. He told me it didn’t really matter where you started — beef, lamb, turkey, sausage, chicken or pork. The important thing was to use the correct spices for the type of meatball you wanted to produce and to “use common sense” to ensure you didn’t make the meatballs too large.

Here is a very basic and simple meatball recipe that I know you’ll find delicious. We recently made them in the Pizza Today test kitchen — and they didn’t last long.

Get the Basic Meatball recipe.

While I prefer a meatball appetizer with a flake or two of shaved Parmesan, you can obviously get a lot of mileage out of the ingredient on pizza. The recipe above is perfect for this use because the sausage in the meatball plays well with the red sauce and a variety of other toppings.

Speaking of sausage meatballs, we made a pizza with pepperoni, meatballs, yellow bell peppers, jalapeños and a hot honey drizzle recently in the test kitchen that was simple, yet delicious. After the fact, I really wished I had used John Gutekanst’s Chorizo Meatballs on the pizza. Shame on me. These are truly outstanding!

Get the Chorizo Meatballs recipe.

Without massive labor considerations, house-made meatballs are quick and easy to pull off from scratch in your kitchen. Adding them to your repertoire will not only lend a classic pizzazz to your menu, it will also satisfy your customer base’s desire for hot and filling comfort food as we move into colder weather.

I’ll leave you with a reminder that, as winter approaches, a simple meatball slider is a great menu addition that many find difficult to resist. And meatballs, if using the appropriate takeout packaging, travel very well — another important consideration as we head into our first “COVID Winter.”

When flu season hits during this current pandemic and people stay indoors more, expect yet another surge in delivery and carryout orders. Having a classic comfort staple that travels well available to your customers makes so much sense right now.

JEREMY WHITE  is Editor-in-Chief of Pizza Today.

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Anchovies: Little Fish, Bold Flavor https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/anchovies-little-fish-bold-flavor/ Thu, 01 Oct 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/anchovies-little-fish-bold-flavor/ It’s time to give anchovies another try Fried, fresh, marinated, grilled or seared. These little fish pack a huge flavor punch and most people either love them or hate them. I dipped my toes in slowly with anchovies. While I am now fully in the former camp, my love affair truly started last year when […]

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anchovies pizza

It’s time to give anchovies another try

Fried, fresh, marinated, grilled or seared. These little fish pack a huge flavor punch and most people either love them or hate them. I dipped my toes in slowly with anchovies. While I am now fully in the former camp, my love affair truly started last year when we were traveling around the Amalfi coast before the Caputo Cup in Naples. Every place we ate at, we ordered fried anchovies to start. A huge platter of perfectly golden, crispy, whole little fishies appeared before us. They were just the right amount of salt and crunch. The size varied but the flavor always remained similar. They tasted like the sea; super fresh and almost minerally. I was hooked and haven’t looked back. Even if you think you don’t like anchovies, what a lot of people don’t realize is that they are the secret ingredient behind a lot of Italian sauces and dishes. They create that elusive fifth taste, umami, that lingers in your mouth and makes you crave more.

Anchovies have earned a bad reputation in the United States, unlike almost every other country where they are celebrated and used in abundance. This might be because we don’t use quality anchovies, or we don’t know how to balance them in recipes. While many people associate them as fillets with a brownish hue and hairy texture swimming around on a cheese slice, they have so many more uses. They are the main ingredient in fish sauce. Different versions of which are seen everywhere from Vietnam, Malaysia and Finland. Other cuisines utilize them dried or made into a paste, something that can be traced back to the Roman Empire where they made an extremely prized condiment called garum. While there are 144 species of anchovies found in the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian oceans, the most popular is the Engraulis encrasicolus, or European anchovy.

Anchovies don’t start out as those super salty, reddish brown fillets. Pulled straight from the water they are beautiful sliver fish with stark white flesh. It is the curing and packing process that produces what we often see sold in stores. There are few different ways to buy anchovies. The most commonly available are those that are processed as filets and packed in barrels of oil for several months. This amplifies the salty, oily taste of the fish. Needless to say, a small amount goes a long way. While these anchovies are not always the highest quality, nor is the oil they are packed in, they are still great used in dressings and sauces.

Salt-packed anchovies are generally a higher quality, with the salt drawing out excess moisture and oil and concentrating the flavor. Just make sure to rinse the filets under cold water before use to get rid of any excess salt.

And then there are marinated white anchovies, typical of Spain and Southern Italy. They are marinated in vinegar and other seasonings and should be used as part of the dish and not hidden beneath the flavors. We use them draped on our Caesar salad and nestled on top of pies.

Packed full of flavor, there are so many ways to maximize an anchovy’s unique taste at your pizzeria. Adding just a few to pizza or pasta sauce can transform the flavor, bringing a depth that won’t otherwise be present. They are fantastic as an appetizer, fried as I mentioned before or even marinated and served on toast. You can mix them into a tapenade, accompanied by some house-made focaccia. They, of course, account for one of the most popular salads, Caesar. We add the salty, oil packed variety to our dressing and have the option to top the salad with some beautiful Italian white anchovies. And then there is pizza.

One of the best pizzas I have ever had was from Dan Richer at Razza in Jersey City, New Jersey. Of course, I was blown away by his incredible dough, but his application of anchovies…My goodness! He makes a Brussels sprout pie topped with melted anchovies. It is a pie that I have tried to replicate many times over just to satisfy my own cravings for it since I live 3,000 miles away. The flavor is just the right amount of salt and umami. The anchovies literally melt into the pie, creating a cohesive flavor and texture that even anti-anchovy people will love. But you don’t have to make melted anchovies to make them delicious on a pizza.

I’ve put them on whole with roasted sweet onions, Brussels, marinara, garlic and finished with a handful of grated parmesan. If you have the beautiful white Italian ones they are fantastic as a post oven topper. I like them on a white pie, on top of a bed of arugula with a big squeeze of fresh lemon juice and a big pour of quality extra virgin olive oil. They also go great with olives. The saltiness of the fish compliments and cuts through the brininess of the olives. Think puttanesca on a pie. Add a heavy hit of garlic and maybe a few leeks. Then there is one of my favorites, the classic Marinara pizza with a few choice anchovies on top. If you’re lucky enough to come by fresh anchovies, don’t hesitate to dive right in.

Fresh anchovies seem to be a rarity in the States. So, I was pleasantly surprised when, nested between the salmon kabobs, halibut steaks and prawns I spotted a tiny sea of silver skins. They are wild caught and super cheap. Having never cooked or cured the tiny fish myself, I was super excited to take them home and play around. They are surprisingly easy to clean. You can simply leave them whole and cook them with their heads and spines attached. However, if you come across some that are a little larger and just want the filet, simply cut the head off with a pair of scissors and pull the skeleton out. I like to marinate them in something simple like a squeeze of fresh lemon, extra virgin olive oil, fresh herbs, salt and pepper. I let them soak in it for an hour or so and them either use them as a base for pasta, sautéed with broccoli and Chile flakes or even just cooked and eaten straight off of the plate.

Anchovies are for everyone. Well, maybe not vegans, but everyone else. You just don’t know it yet. They are the secret ingredient that rounds out a dish and drops the ultimate flavor bomb. They hide in the background to prop up the other ingredients. The key to their success is knowing how much to use and what quality of fish to buy depending on how you are utilizing them. In the Post-Pandemic world, you’ll know where to find me. I’ll be the girl on the Amalfi with a huge plate of golden fried little fishies and a Marinara pie.  

Audrey Kelly is the owner and pizzaiola at Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, CO.

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Pork: Making the Cut https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/pork-making-the-cut/ Thu, 01 Oct 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/pork-making-the-cut/ Find ways to use versatile pork The pandemic has forced so many of us to alter our habits. It has caused people to become wary of others. It has sparked some into action to help those in need and others to withdraw into themselves. But mostly, it has turned Americans into hoarders. Yes, you heard […]

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pancetta, brussels sprouts, pork pizza

Find ways to use versatile pork

The pandemic has forced so many of us to alter our habits. It has caused people to become wary of others. It has sparked some into action to help those in need and others to withdraw into themselves. But mostly, it has turned Americans into hoarders. Yes, you heard right, people are hoarding. It started with people buying massive amounts of food they will never be able to consume and towers of toilet paper. Then it was sanitizer and Clorox wipes. And of course, alcohol. I wanted to think that I was above the hoarding, but then I looked at the former dining room of my pizzeria. Let me tell you, I have joined the hoarders. I will say it was out of necessity, as we were unable to get some of our staple ingredients at the beginning of the shutdown. Now, you will find a pallet of tomatoes and another of flour laying in the spot that used to be crowded with diners. The latest item of my hoarding is pork. I have an extra leg of prosciutto and six extra cases of pepperoni at all times. We are beginning to see the effects of so many slaughter houses shutting down. The supply is low and the demand higher than ever. While you can definitely argue that the dough, sauce and cheese are the most important components of a pizza, pork is a very, very close fourth.

Pork is actually a major ingredient to any pizzeria. At least in my shop, pork accounts for almost 80 percent of my meat products. There is, of course, pepperoni, prosciutto, salumi, sausage, meatballs, pancetta, bacon and porchetta. The list can go on and on. Truly the beauty of pork is that it can be transformed not only by the spices you add to it, but by the method in which you prepare it. It is a protein that lends itself well to almost all forms of curing, smoking, slow-roasting, dry-aging, grilled and cooking. Pork and pizza are one of the great duos.

In my mind, pork is the far superior version of chicken. It is still a white meat, making it a blank canvas to paint as you want, but with so much more flavor. And fat — don’t forget the fat. How you cook and process your pork all depends on the cut of meat you get. Let’s explore the different parts of the animal a little more to gain a better understanding of when to use what.

The pork shoulder, also called a pork butt, is great for slow roasting as well as grinding for sausage. The pork loin encompasses the tenderloin, fatback and baby back ribs. You can choose to roast the entire loin or you can cut it into pork chops or cutlets. These cuts are meant for pan searing or grilling. The leg is where the ham cuts are, which is then turned into prosciutto when cured. On the side of the pig you’ll find the spare ribs, bacon and pork belly. Then there is the picnic shoulder or picnic roast. This cut is great smoked, cured or ground up.

One of the most versatile parts of the pig, in my mind, is the pork shoulder. A lot of pizzerias automatically revert to grinding the meat for sausage or meatballs, but it shouldn’t be overlooked to braise, stew, or slow roast. It is a cut that is loaded with flavor but needs a long, slow roast to tenderize. The whole beauty of this cut is that the tough shoulder meat also contains gelatin which melts and bastes the meat as it cooks. You don’t want to rush it otherwise you will end up with a tough piece of meat. It is the perfect base for whatever flavors you want to add. To end up with falling off the bone, succulent roasted pork butt, there are a few things to keep in mind.

You always want a base liquid. Depending on the flavor profile you are trying to achieve you can use anything from cream, stock and Coca-Cola. Whatever you use can also double as a reduction sauce.

Once you pick your base and spices, I like to marinate the shoulder overnight. When you are ready to cook it, bring it up to room temperature and then sear it on all sides before roasting. This will seal in the flavor. Add any other vegetables, spices and liquid of choice and cook for six to eight hours. The meat should fall off of the bone and shed easily. Yes, it is great on its own and in sandwiches, but have you ever had a pulled pork pizza? Game changing. You can taste the hours of labor and love the have gone into it from the layers of flavor.

The beauty of pork is that you can make it as labor intensive and artisan as you want. If you’re going for simplicity, yet still want top quality ingredients, there are plenty of amazing companies producing raw, cured and cooked products. You can order mass produced sausage, locally made or made in house. There are legs of prosciutto that are shipped in from Italy, made in California or cured in the proprietor’s basement of the pizzeria. Then there are the sleeper items.

Mortadella has recently had a reawakening. A meat that, as my brother puts it is pretty much just fancy Bologna, is popping up on the menus of high-end restaurants. People are shaping it into delicate flowers accompanied by vibrant pesto and nutty pistachios.

Short ribs are often seen as a main dish, but they can also work beautifully on a pie. They can be kissed with barbecue, paired with some caramelized onions and a smoky soft cheese.

Almost all pork products can also cross over on your menu. Cured meats can be repurposed into a sandwich or be the star of a charcuterie board. Sausage can double on a pie as well as a main dish. Pancetta works brilliantly with roasted Brussels sprouts and sweet onions on a white pie and can be utilized to make an Amatriciana sauce for pasta.

A lot of people get stuck on the cured, ground or smoked forms of pork. I admit that I am one of them. I love how a beautiful piece of paper-thin prosciutto can transform a slice of cheese and make you feel as if you are sitting on the streets of Rome. Or Calabrese salumi adds an entirely new dimension to a pie. I mean, really, does anything beat a hot slice of pepperoni pizza? That being said, don’t be afraid to get out of your comfort zone and try some of the more obscure cuts.

Prepared correctly, pork can yield fantastic results. Just make sure to season properly as it is a white meat and needs a little extra. Always brown before roasting. This ensures the juices are sealed in and the crust is crispy. Don’t overcook or you’ll be left with a very dry piece of meat. If you are grinding for sausage, don’t forget the fat. And of course, pick the right cut.  

Audrey Kelly is the owner and pizzaiola at Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, CO.

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The Great Calzone: Make the dish your own https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/the-great-calzone-make-the-dish-your-own/ Tue, 01 Sep 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/the-great-calzone-make-the-dish-your-own/ In Atlantic City this year, the calzone will officially enter the competition realm. At Pizza & Pasta Northeast 2020, the calzone competition is set to make its debut. It’s interesting the reverberating effects that these competitions have. Pizzeria owners see other restaurants’ styles on display, which in turn paves the way for inspiration and intrigue […]

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calzone

In Atlantic City this year, the calzone will officially enter the competition realm. At Pizza & Pasta Northeast 2020, the calzone competition is set to make its debut. It’s interesting the reverberating effects that these competitions have. Pizzeria owners see other restaurants’ styles on display, which in turn paves the way for inspiration and intrigue to go back to their pizzeria and see what can be created. Steel sharpens steel, great ideas lead to great ideas, and I’m excited to see those results.

 

What constitutes a calzone, and how is it not a Stromboli?

I’ve made calzones since day one of my pizzeria Andolini’s. I love calzones, and I also love Stromboli. There are definite differences. Calzones exist in Naples; they’re as old as pizza. Stromboli is an American invention from Philadelphia. The namesake inspired from the movie Stromboli, starring Ingrid Bergman. Calzone has its roots in Naples. If you go to any Naples pizzeria today, a calzone will be on the menu. The word calzone is loosely translated to “pants legs,” which means that it’s the type of food ideal for to-go eating. Classic Napoletana pizza, with its oozing sauce, does not lend itself to grab and go.

A great calzone has several other distinguishing factors — the stuffed ingredients, of course, but also the fold, the size and the bake. I like selling a larger calzone, as it gets the price for the item in a realm that makes more sense. And I can charge for it, as much as an extra-large pizza. So, we do a 16-inch calzone.

All of our calzones have ricotta, sliced sausage that we make in-house, with a folded braid technique closer and extra-virgin olive oil on top, so that when it bakes, it comes out golden. We cut it three times in the shape of a chicken foot, so each slice comes out triangular.

The key to a proper close of a calzone is in the rolling braid. I’ve seen the pinch, where it’s closed off by putting your thumb and index finger together. I’ve also seen the fork on the edge closure, mashing the dough to become one. I think a solid braid lends itself to not just being aesthetically pleasing, but also ensuring that no product leaves the calzone during the bake as the dough rises.

Other ways to make the calzone your own, include deep-frying it, to create a calzone fritti. This method is popular in Apulia, Italy, and is sometimes referred to as panzerotti.

A smaller calzone may be more necessary than ever before. In the COVID world that we now live in, smaller box lunches are not just a good idea; they’re mandatory for many businesses when they order lunch. Companies don’t want people sharing things, which throws a wrench in the pizza industry as a whole. Getting around a table and everyone eating off the same pan to share a pizza is the backbone of what we do. That’s all out the window now. To compete against the Panera’s and Chipotle’s of the world, personal pizzas, or moreover individual calzones, can be something that gets your lunch game back into the competitive spectrum. Obviously, these would not be the 16-inch large form version that I referenced earlier, but more of a six- to nine-inch version.

A calzone does not need or is not mandated to have any one particular topping inside of it. I choose to have ricotta in all of mine, but again, it’s entirely up to you whether it’s heavy on the meats, multiple kinds of cheese or a variety of vegetables. Depending on your demographic, having a calzone that lends itself to each demo makes you more apt to reach higher sales. I have a vegan Calzone that doesn’t outsell my other calzones, but is very popular in the vegan community and sets us apart for having vegan-friendly items. Egg and sausage calzones give you the ability to feed a morning crew and get a head start on sales for the day. Spinach ricotta calzones can come off just healthy enough to feel like a smart choice for health-conscious customers.

I created my most successful calzone as a goof (it was a reference to Seinfeld). In 2016, I watched an old Seinfeld episode in which George Costanza’s boss, the Yankees’ George Steinbrenner, barked at him to go to his favorite pizzeria and get him a calzone. Steinbrenner told him to get him the one with the eggplant and the pepperoni. So I made a fried eggplant, pepperoni, sliced sausage and ricotta calzone. I call it The Steinbrenner. This calzone went on to become my most popular calzone. It tastes great on its own, and the heightened awareness of must-see TV fanatics, now in their early 40s, doesn’t hurt either.

The beauty of a calzone, just like pizza, is its effortless ability to make it unique. I’ve never had two calzones identical, even in Naples, where almost all the dough is created in a very similar way. Each pizzeria puts their spin on how they fold it, whether it’s a half-moon or more of a U shape. To the inside toppings, whether or not they have pizza sauce or not. Heavy on the meats, or an absolute ricotta-fest. You can choose to have a side sauce or array of sauces to dip the calzone or cover it in a sauce as served.

I’ve seen the big boys do this with P’zone and dipping zones as campaigns to build buzz for calzone offshoots. The advertisement style should match your brand. If you aren’t selling kitschy family fun, modify how a package calzone deal feeds a group. Or market the style as being authentic to Naples. Regardless of how you approach the marketing of your calzones, know this: if you see the national chains investing heavily in a particular style — in this case, calzones — you know the market research supports the viability of the product.

These things are the choice that distinguishes you. And at the Pizza & Pasta Northeast challenge, I’m looking forward to seeing the varying combinations on display to see who stands out this year and in the coming years.

Mike Bausch is the owner of Andolini’s Pizzeria in Tulsa, Oklahoma. Instagram: @andopizza

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Fall Menus: Autumn Staples https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/fall-menus-autumn-staples/ Tue, 01 Sep 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/fall-menus-autumn-staples/ Be strategic on your fall menu during this persistent pandemic As COVID19 dining restrictions have tightened again around the country, it’s easy to miss that the changing season is upon us. Fall will arrive soon and usher in a bounty of comfort food possibilities. Cooler weather will welcome menu items like soups, heartier pizzas and […]

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autumn bruschetta, squash, apples, balsamic, hot honey, goat cheese

Be strategic on your fall menu during this persistent pandemic

As COVID19 dining restrictions have tightened again around the country, it’s easy to miss that the changing season is upon us. Fall will arrive soon and usher in a bounty of comfort food possibilities. Cooler weather will welcome menu items like soups, heartier pizzas and rich desserts.

Many pizzerias choose to rotate menus quarterly, infusing fresh, new seasonal offerings to accompany tried-and-true favorites in the fall. With a persistent pandemic, changing up a menu may seem like a risky and daunting task. You can mitigate some of that risk by doing the following:

  1. Go for your proven winners.
  2. Look back to your sales reports from the past three to five years and find those fall menu specials. Which fall debut items were hits and which were duds?
  3. Odds are you will find common ingredients that customers loved and ingredients that your market just didn’t care for. If you are unable to access item-by-item data history, scour your past fall special social media posts. Were there items that garnered more attention than others
  4. Once you have a list of the popular fall ingredients for your market, it’s time to think labor. Amidst a pandemic, now may not be the time to roll out a labor-intensive new item. Instead try preparation and cooking techniques that do not strap your kitchen crew. Choose methods that can be prepped ahead or are already a part of your makeline.
  5. Now it’s time to get creative in your kitchen. Try pairing seasonal items with those can’t-miss ingredients. People may be willing to get out of their pizza comfort zone if they see pepperoni or sausage on that new fall item.

 

Cornucopia of Harvest Produce

Take advantage of the Autumn harvest. The bounty of fresh veggies means great pricing and variety. Compared to other seasons, fall provides a cornucopia of delicious possibilities. Depending on where you are in the U.S., the abundance of autumn offerings will be robust.

Many parts of the country can look forward to these ripe, fall produce items: acorn squash, apples, arugula, beets, Brussels sprouts, butternut squash, cabbage, cranberries, fennel bulbs, figs, grapes, kale, onion, parsnips, pears, persimmons, pomegranate, potatoes, pumpkins, rutabagas, sweet potatoes, Swiss chard and turnips.

 

Show Local Love

If you are sourcing harvest produce in your area, leverage your relationships with local purveyors. Sing their praises. Tell the story of the ingredients with each new fall menu item. Community relationships are stronger than ever in this uncertain time and people are gravitating towards creating or reigniting that sense of community. Demonstrating that you use local products and promote those items on your menus and in marketing go a longer way with your customer base when people are staying close to home.

This goes beyond produce. Think local meats, cheeses, honey and other specialty items. Showcasing farms in your area can entice customers to purchase that out-of-the ordinary menu special.

 

Harvest Pizza Inspiration

Let’s look at some pizza combinations that evoke the spirit of the autumn harvest season. Switch around the ingredients with those most popular toppings to create something unique. Give these a try in your kitchen:

  • Butternut squash, sausage, fresh sage, kale, fontina and ricotta
  • Sweet potato, Sopressata and balsamic red onions on a garlic base with mozzarella and Parmesan
  • Bacon, apple, Gouda and mozzarella on buttered base
  • Red potato, rosemary, pancetta and smoked cheddar
  • Roasted pumpkin and bleu cheese crumbles on a ricotta base and finished with prosciutto
  • Pear and bleu cheese on an olive oil base and finished with arugula and honey
  • Balsamic and sage roasted acorn squash and Brussels sprouts, mozzarella and chicken, finished with goat cheese and hot honey

 

An Autumn Bruschetta

This simple alternative to traditional bruschetta is versatile and delicious. Let’s start with the recipe.

>> Get the Autumn Bruschetta Recipe.

For to-go and delivery, use separate containers to allow customers to assemble bruschetta at home to keep its freshness. Don’t forget to add simple assembly instructions.

Go versatile with the Autumn Bruschetta

Don’t stop at bruschetta. Since you have this dynamite combination of ingredients, take it across the menu like this:

  • Create a seasonal salad. Top a spinach salad with squash mixture and finishing ingredients. Make it filling by adding bacon, Pecorino and cranberries.
  • Create a fall harvest pizza. Use an olive oil base and par bake with sliced whole-milk mozzarella. Then add squash mixture and bacon crumbles and bake. Finish with goat cheese, pecans, arugula and hot honey.

Don’t forget dessert

I’m going to leave you with one last idea: a dessert that is designed for carryout and delivery and screams autumn. Caramel Apple Cups! Yes, who doesn’t love caramel apples in the fall? Make an apple pie filling with cinnamon. Once cool, create two layers of each of the following in the cup in this order: apple pie filling, caramel sauce, chopped nuts and mascarpone. 

Denise Greer is Executive Editor of Pizza Today.

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Non-Traditional Pizza: Go Like a Viking https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/non-traditional-pizza-go-like-a-viking/ Tue, 01 Sep 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/non-traditional-pizza-go-like-a-viking/ Making the best Non-Traditional Pizza “Toppings are easy. The base takes a lifetime.” — Domenico Crolla, Restaurateur and Pizza Judge Competitive pizza making always brings out the best in people, but the non-traditional category of  the International Pizza Challenge at Pizza Expo is where both heart and soul meld together to craft a pizza masterwork. […]

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Making the best Non-Traditional Pizza

“Toppings are easy. The base takes a lifetime.”

— Domenico Crolla, Restaurateur and Pizza Judge

Competitive pizza making always brings out the best in people, but the non-traditional category of  the International Pizza Challenge at Pizza Expo is where both heart and soul meld together to craft a pizza masterwork. There is no room for second-guessing because you are going up against the best of the best. As world champion Bruno di Fabio once said, “You’ve got to go like a Viking. Show the judges the confidence and skill that make THIS the best pizza they’ll ever eat in their lives.”

I have been Master of Ceremonies for the past several years (with pizza champion Theo Kalageracos) and have competed since 2003. During this time, I have witnessed the evolution of creative competition first-hand. And yes, I have come in last place, fought with oven judges, tap-danced while presenting and even dressed as Godzilla.

It was 2004 when I watched my General Manager, Brynne Humphreys, bake our pizza named Godzilla at the World Pizza Championships in Salsomaggiore, Italy. Brynne was dressed in a green sequined dress and flowing bright green wig. I danced next to her with my rug-like costume of claws, paws and a 15-pound Godzilla head as she prepared to present the pizza to the judges. The Godzilla was one of our most popular pizzas with slices of roasted chicken under several rings of spinach and goat cheese with a bullseye of sun-dried tomato in the middle. The crowd was on their feet yelling “Rocky, Rocky” because our teammate, dressed as Rocky Balboa, was presenting his pizza as the loud soundtrack of the Rocky movie filled the stadium. As he finished up with the judges, it was show time.

Pizza legend “Big Dave” Ostrander pushed me toward the judges table because I could not see in the claustrophobic Godzilla head. Immediately, the Blue Oyster Cult song “Go, go, Godzilla” reverberated across the stadium and the crowd cheered. As the song ended, Brynne cut some slices for the judges and Big Dave abandoned me. I made my way awkwardly toward the crowd, fell once as little kids cried and adults grabbed at me for photo opportunities. From what I could tell, Brynne nailed it — but we would not find out for a few days that she had won Best Pizza in the USA.

In any pizza competition, you must read the rules…really read the rules! If you think you have gone over the rule guard rail, always ask because you do not want to get disqualified. Here are the rules for Non-Traditional.

  • Taste: Crust, sauce, cheese, toppings, overall taste and creativity.
  • Visual presentation/Appearance: Bake and Visual presentation, (pleasing to the eye, true to flavor pairings, creative culinary look and textures.)

 

Base Jumping

One of the first things you are likely to see when your competition pizza hits the judges table is a judge using a pen to lift and look at the bottom crust of the pizza for “leoparding” (dark spots.) Other judges may check the “Bounceback” of the cornicione (crust) by pressing their finger into it. Domenico Crolla, Italian Master Chef and owner of Oro in Glasgow, Scotland told me, “My favorite part of the pizza is the taste and texture of a yeasty crust. I also enjoy seeing pizza makers flavor this often-neglected part of the pizza. Some brush it with flavored oils or sprinkle magic over the crust like toasted coconut or sesame seeds.” Chef Crolla has also seen the emergence of different toppings once only found on California pizza but says, “I reckon most of the winners in recent years have won due to the mastery of the base rather than the toppings. Some of these crusts stand out with flavor and texture not normally associated with traditional pie.” He continues, “Baking skills and flavors of pretzels, croissants and bagels are now on the pizza palate…it’s all about flavor.”

Here are some newer flavor profiles that can make anyone say “wow”:

Old Italian sauces: Sicilian Passata, Colortura di Alici, Salmoriglio, Sardinian Sapa or wine sauce, Piedmontese Honeybee Sauce, Gremolata, Florentine Savore Sanguino or blood sauce.

House-cured meats: Impressive cuts like duck pastrami, chicken sausage, lamb neck sausage, beef or wild boar bacon, and pork lardo add a distinctive flavor to any pizza.

House-milled grains: Spelt, Kernza, Einkorn, Emmer, Kamut, Buckwheat, Amaranth, Millet, or even Grano Arso, the burnt wheat from Puglia or charcoal infused blends are impressive.

Obscure cheeses: Bitto Storico from Lombardy, Vacca Rosa Parmigiano Reggiano, Caciocavallo di Cimina from Calabria, house-made Ligurian-style Prescinseua, Telleggio from Veneto, and even local, U.S. cheeses are abundant.

Greens: Baby kale, purslane, New Zealand spinach, bolted arugula, chive flowers, bulls blood, and other microgreens all add a zip to your pie as well as add eye appeal.

 

Hall of Flame

International Pizza Challenge, 2019, pizza expoHere are a few non-traditional competition pizzas that stood out for me in the past four years:

Audrey Kelly from Audrey Jane’s Pizza in Boulder, Colorado, made The Green Mountain Vegetarian Pie with piles of spinach, ricotta, garlic, Castelvetrano olives, basil and shaved Parmigiano Reggiano.

Simon Best from Mooloolaba, Australia, with squid ink-infused dough, ocean trout sashimi, red onions, avocado-wasabi mayo and panko for crunch.

Claudio Vicano from Disentis, Switzerland, made a sauce of oven-roasted Piennolo tomato which flavored even the cornicione, filet of beef, chili, arugula and pecorino.

Lars Smith of State of Mind Pizzeria in Los Altos, California, with a foie gras, black garlic crema, California Toma, duck confit, smoked duck breast, sour cherry relish, mustard seed ‘caviar,’ pickled cherry and pecorino.

Umberto Fornito won with his naturally fermented dough without refrigeration, (probably the lightest dough I have ever seen) San Marzano tomato, fior di latte, pepperoni, chive, truffle oil, Pecorino Romano and basil.

Jay Langfelter of Jays Artisan Pizzeria in Buffalo, New York, with his star-shaped pizza with foir di latte, pancetta, truffle pecorino, truffled ricotta-stuffed points, sweet picante peppers and truffle honey.

Giovanni Landi from Naples, Italy in made a lobster pizza with minted stracciatella di buffalo, black truffle and gold leaf.

Andrew Scudera of Goodfellas Pizza in Staten Island, New York, and his lobster atop a Makers Mark cream sauce, mango, strawberry and a stencil-sprayed crust with Chamborde reduction.

Derek Sanchez of Mia Marcos Pizza in San Antonio, Texas, made a Roman-style pizza dough made with naturally fermented apricots, spicy apricot preserves, smoked-peppered bacon, mozzarella, Fontina, 48-month old Bonatti Parmigiano Reggiano, toasted pecans, sun-dried apricot, rocket and basil.

Fredrico De Silvestri from Verona Italy won it all with seven different flours, fresh kale, wild boar, onion chips, gorgonzola mousse, corn-poppy chips and Amarone wine gelee.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Menu Revamp: The Big Pivot https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/menu-revamp-the-big-pivot/ Sat, 01 Aug 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/menu-revamp-the-big-pivot/ How pizzerias are thriving in strange times When restaurants nationwide began trying to figure out how to sustain business during the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, there were more questions than answers. And though it remains overwhelming and there still are so many questions, pizzerias have done a really excellent job of adapting to “the new normal.” […]

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PizzaHead, st louis, missouri, pizzeria, slice shop, vegan pizza

How pizzerias are thriving in strange times

When restaurants nationwide began trying to figure out how to sustain business during the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, there were more questions than answers. And though it remains overwhelming and there still are so many questions, pizzerias have done a really excellent job of adapting to “the new normal.” Perhaps it is because the industry is already well suited to handle carryout and delivery on a massive scale. But there just may be more to it.

Let’s start with being in the hospitality industry. I have personally visited probably 1,000+ pizzerias over the years now from coast to coast. And one thing I constantly encounter is this fact: pizzerias get it. You know how to be hospitable. You take care of your customers. You take care of your staff, who in turn perform admirably on behalf of your company.

Then there’s food quality … most of you get high marks there, too. You take pride in letting your ingredients shine. And, yes, you know how to produce a product that travels well. Most styles of pizza withstand the rigors of carryout and delivery (sometimes by a third party) far better than other types of food.

When we’ve spoken to pizzeria owners lately about how they’ve thrived in 2020, one thing that often comes up is this: a streamlined menu.

“We saw it as a must,” Tony Gemignani told us recently while recording an episode of The Hot Slice podcast. “We had to get lean and really think about what we could efficiently pull off in our kitchens and get to the customer who was picking it up or using a delivery option.”

Scott Sandler of Pizza Head in St. Louis did the same thing, but streamlined a bit differently than he thought he would.

“We have sold a lot of slices, historically,” he explains. “People like to come in, get a slice or two and a beer, hang out a minute and move on. But with the quarantine and without all the foot traffic, we’ve gone to whole pies. It just made sense for us as we were handling online or call-in orders vs. people stopping in.”

The result is that Pizza Head’s ticket average and revenue has increased, but Sandler nonetheless was left a bit conflicted.

“Sometimes it does bother me, because slices are how we had built our business,” he says. “But you have to change with the times and this was just a part of that. We wouldn’t survive on online slice orders, I don’t believe, but we are thriving and doing great with whole pie orders. So while slices have been our identity, we’ve had to completely change how we do things to focus on filling orders for whole pizzas.”

There may never have been a better time than now to perform a menu analysis. Go over each and every item on your menu and figure its cost (you should already have that info available) and contribution margin. How does each item play into your menu mix? Look at your historical records pre-COVID. Since the quarantine hit and new procedures took over, how have sales of that item changed. Is it more popular? Selling less? Is the effort to produce it still justified? Does it travel well?

You may inevitably find there are old favorites that need to be paused. You may be shocked to realize an item you previously undervalued is now more important than ever to your menu mix. If you aren’t diligently poring over the numbers, you’re probably missing out on something.

“When we made some changes to Capo’s after re-opening, they were pretty big changes,” Gemignani says. “We completely re-did the menu. A few people were caught off guard. They wanted to know where this dish went or where that item went and why it wasn’t still on the menu. You end up taking off someone’s favorite item and you hate that. But I would explain to them what we did and why we had to make the changes and people understand. They know we are in different times.”  

JEREMY WHITE  is Editor-in-Chief of Pizza Today.

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Bring scratch dressing to salads, apps and pizzas https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/bring-scratch-dressing-to-salads-apps-and-pizzas/ Sat, 01 Aug 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/bring-scratch-dressing-to-salads-apps-and-pizzas/ Dressed to Impress One of the first kitchen jobs I had in San Francisco was at a gourmet salad restaurant. The place had just opened in the financial district and was booming. The chef/owner had previously worked at high-end places such as Gary Danko and was totally changing the game of fast-casual dining. Yes, they […]

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ranch dressing, pizza, drizzle

Dressed to Impress

One of the first kitchen jobs I had in San Francisco was at a gourmet salad restaurant. The place had just opened in the financial district and was booming. The chef/owner had previously worked at high-end places such as Gary Danko and was totally changing the game of fast-casual dining. Yes, they served salads, but let me tell you they were freaking amazing salads. Andrew (Swallow) changed them seasonally, topped them with grilled filet mignon and seared Ahi. He mixed in mango, fried leeks and local cheeses. He really focused on making a salad a cohesive dish and taught me the importance of utilizing different textures and flavors. It is something that I apply to any dish I make, especially pizza. And his dressings. I could almost drink them. All these years later, the food we made there has left an impression.

When I opened my pizzeria, I knew I wanted to keep it simple. Of course, I wanted to make the best pizza I possibly could. But I also wanted to make really, really good salads. I think it’s something that owners tend to overlook but can be a huge selling point for customers. Not only does it up the final check average — often times doubling it during lunch for a slice house, but it brings in people who wouldn’t otherwise eat there. I live in a place where people are very health conscious and having the option of great salads to accompany a slice has definitely played a role in how busy we are during the lunch rush. Depending on your menu, salads are also an easy thing to make by reutilizing ingredients you already order for your pies — items such as spinach, arugula, Parmesan, goat or feta cheese, roasted or fresh veggies and, of course dressings.

Dressings are very versatile. If you have a few solid ones for your salads, they can double as a dipping sauce or pizza topping. My husband rarely eats a slice without dipping the crust in our balsamic. And then, of course, there is Ranch. We sell our Ranch as a side for the pizza, but also cover a pie in it accompanied by pickled veggies and natural casing pepperoni.

Let’s talk about Ranch. Aside from pineapple, it may very well be one of the most heated pizza topping debates. People get serious about their Ranch or lack thereof. It has taken me four years to finally acquiesce and serve this creamy, herby dressing. Why has it taken me that long, you ask? I’ll just come right out and say it: I’m a pizza snob, especially when it comes to MY pizza. I love my crust. Sometimes I grab a slice and only eat the crust. So why would I want to cover it up with Ranch? Well, let me tell you something … as it turns out Ranch is delicious, especially homemade Ranch. It’s the kind that smells and tastes herby and is stained a minty green color from fresh parsley and chives. Do I think it belongs on every slice or whole pie? Absolutely not. There is always a time and place. And not only does it taste amazing, it is also very profitable. Over the years I have realized that sometimes you have to put aside your judgements and look at things from a business perspective. In other words, give the people what they want.

As with creating any category on your menu, it is important to know your demographic. I live in a very health conscious place. Yes, people love to eat and seek out really good food, but you can bet that they ran up the mountain a few times before indulging in it. So, a dairy free, vegan option is always essential. Sixty percent of our dressings fit this category. We started out with three dressings and over the years have added two more standards. They accompany our four salad options.

Now don’t get me wrong, I love a good house salad. We just don’t really offer one. Being a small slice shop, I try to use every ingredient more than once. We have an arugula salad and also top a few pies with the green. Same with spinach. Our shredded kale goes on our Italian Mamma pie and is massaged with apple cider vinaigrette for a salad. The only green we don’t repurpose is romaine. While I’m not saying you should get rid of the house salad that is occupying space on your menu, it is always fun to get out of your basic salad comfort zone. Here are few dressing ideas to play around with:

  • buttermilk poppyseed
  • cilantro jalapeño
  • basil peach
  • Miso, scallion and ginger
  • balsamic strawberry

Creamy, zesty, tart, fruity or spicy, a well-balanced dressing can add flavor to any menu. It can increase sales and bring in new clientele. Dressings are also super versatile and simple to make. So, go ahead, turn a pizza junkie onto salads. And if that doesn’t work let them dip your beautiful crust into some homemade dressing.

Try these scratch dressings:

Poppyseed and Chive Buttermilk Dressing

Cilantro Jalapeño Vinaigrette

 

Audrey Kelly  is the owner and pizzaiola at Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, CO.

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Your Guide to Summer Tomatoes https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/your-guide-to-summer-tomatoes/ Wed, 01 Jul 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/your-guide-to-summer-tomatoes/ Gotten Tomatoes Summer is time for tomatoes. This umami-packed fruit can also be savory, sweet, acidic, sloppy, crunchy, spicy and nuanced all at the same time. In all pizzerias, tomatoes are in top three all-time ingredients of usage as they are paired with cheese and wheat. But, as you browse most corporate pizzeria menus, not […]

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sliced tomatoes, guide to summer tomatoes

Gotten Tomatoes

Summer is time for tomatoes. This umami-packed fruit can also be savory, sweet, acidic, sloppy, crunchy, spicy and nuanced all at the same time. In all pizzerias, tomatoes are in top three all-time ingredients of usage as they are paired with cheese and wheat. But, as you browse most corporate pizzeria menus, not much else is done with this flexible fruit. In fact, it has always amazed me that in the heated days of a tomato summer, most corporate pizzerias and fast food joints will STILL top your pizza or sandwich with a tasteless, crappy tomato. This laziness can be used to your advantage. You are local. Why not buy and use the best local ingredients from local people? It works for flavor, marketing, word-of-mouth, good will and bottom-line sales.

 

Pulp Friction

Buying tomatoes from your local growers is all about the strategy of supply and demand. During the early part of the summer, tomatoes go for an elevated price, then during the “glut” of summer when every farmer has more tomatoes than they can sell, the price goes very low and you can benefit with little effort. Please note that your relationship with local farmers extends to their family and friends who will, in turn, become your best customers. Here are some tips for getting the best value with tomatoes:

  • Your farmers. This market is just like the pizza market. If you show some loyalty to a tomato farmer, you’ll get the best tomatoes cheaper and earlier in the summer. Many farmers now have high tunnels. These are unheated and sometimes temporary greenhouses used in the springtime to get a jump on the tomato growing season.
  • Farmers markets. Just by telling a tomato vender that you could come back every week to purchase tomatoes offers a window into getting a steady stream of value along with tomatoes. You can also just tell the farmer to drop off a case or two at your store if they cannot sell them that day. You will be surprised to have a new perfect tomato purveyor who will possibly offer you some discounted peppers, onion and zucchini, etc. because they don’t want to go home with produce.
  • “Got any seconds”. This magic phrase refers to the ugly tomatoes that every farmer finds hard to sell to farmers market customers. They may have pits, bug bites, mushed parts or just be plain ugly. The best thing about these lowly orphans is that they taste the same or even better as the tomato runway models.
  • Bush-trimmed tomatoes. To get a better yield, many tomato growers pull some fruit early to increase the energy to other, larger fruit on the plant. These tomatoes are sometimes pulled when green or partly ripe. These are particularly cheap and will ripen in a box at your restaurant temperature and are still remarkably tasty when they ripen.

 

Biggie Smalls: Cherry Tomato Do’s and Don’ts

Don’t buy hundreds of heirloom cherry tomatoes with “Spiders.” Spiders are the small stem leaves that stick onto some varieties of heirloom tomatoes. Farmers sometimes rip tomatoes off the bush which does not dislodge this spider-looking leaf on the tomato. Believe me, it is a real pain to get these off especially when they dry out.

Do save a few plastic ricotta or sauce tub lids that are five to six inches in diameter to cut cherry tomatoes. These lids act as a great capture basin cherry tomatoes and you will be able to halve boatloads of cherry tomatoes of all different sizes in no time. 1. Place the bottom lid on a table and put as many cherries into it. 2. Place the top lid on the tomatoes leaving a small slit in between the lids. 3. Using a very sharp knife, slice through the tomatoes and place into a bowl.

Don’t be afraid to jazz up your cherry tomatoes for garnishing pizzas. Try shocking your tomatoes by slitting an “X” in the bottom of the cherry and placing in boiling water for 12 seconds, then plunge into iced water. The skin will come off easily — or just pull the skin up to make a dramatic bomb-shape. Once you get the “hang” of this, it becomes easy and fast.

Do not be afraid to par-saute’ acidic cherry tomatoes in a sugar/olive oil combination before placing on a pizza. This a very secret, secret in the pizza competition world and makes the cherry tomatoes very sweet, perfect with sharp cheeses. (Shhhhhh…don’t tell anyone.)

 

Fried Green Tomatoes with Sopressata

Every late-summer, I use this recipe from a Chef at the Biltmore Forest Country Club in North Carolina in 1987.  He grew up in Georgia and was very proud of it. Once made, these slices are perfect for an appetizer as well as atop a pizza (recipe at PizzaToday.com). Each fried green tomato slice has the perfect southern-style crunch around a heart of sweet/sour/spice and is accented by the sopressata, fresh mozzarella and marinara.

Get the Fried Green Tomatoes with Sopressata Recipe.

 

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Incorporate Fresh Seasonal Greens on your Next Pizza https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/incorporate-fresh-seasonal-greens-on-your-next-pizza/ Wed, 01 Jul 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/incorporate-fresh-seasonal-greens-on-your-next-pizza/ Summer Greens That glorious summer dough. It rarely fails to be extra fluffy and beautiful. So many fun ideas to explore when you just know your starter will explode in the summer heat. Summer is a very conflicting season for me these days. On the one hand, there are bushels of beautiful fresh fruits and […]

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summer greens pizza

Summer Greens

That glorious summer dough. It rarely fails to be extra fluffy and beautiful. So many fun ideas to explore when you just know your starter will explode in the summer heat.

Summer is a very conflicting season for me these days. On the one hand, there are bushels of beautiful fresh fruits and vegetables to play around with, long, lazy nights and the perfect weather to tackle a few fourteeners. On the other hand, working an oven in 100-degree weather is brutal. Now, in this new Post world we find ourselves in, adding a mask to the equation is a whole new level of hot.

Like most pizza makers, I always get the question, “what’s your favorite style of pizza?”  The response for me is a complicated one. Pizza is a lot like music. My mood is what dictates the style I crave. So, for me, summer pizza is an all-encompassing thing. It is not only the bounty of produce to put on the pie, the season also entices me to create different styles, such as boards of airy Roman and grilled pies drizzled with hearty portions of extra virgin olive oil. Whereas in the winter months, I like to bury myself in the comfort of sauce heavy Sicilians and Grandmas.   

Every region has certain crops that thrive. In Colorado, we don’t have the same range of year-round produce as some places, but we have our things. And beautiful greens are one of them. Fresh greens also happen to be one of my favorite pizza toppings because they are so versatile and require little prep other than a good washing. I like to add them raw in a heaping pile under the cheese. They cook down perfectly by the time the pie is pulled from the oven. The Green Mountain is one of our most popular pies. It is called that because we put a mountain of spinach on with mozzarella, ricotta, garlic and extra virgin olive oil. Greens are so diverse as they are all different in flavors and textures. To soften some of the more bitter greens like dandelion, beet, kale or stinging nettles, simply round them out with creamy, nutty cheeses and salty meats.

Another great way to incorporate greens on a pie is with pesto. While I always like to use a handful of basil in almost every variation, as long as you have the basic proportions down, you can make an unlimited number of combinations and flavors of pesto with different greens and nuts. Making a vegan version is also simple by excluding the Parmesan and adding in a hit of lemon and salt. In addition to garlic, it’s fun to add those elusive varietals of allium in the short windows that they are available, like garlic scapes and spring onions. A few fun ones other than the classic basil and pine nut pesto to play around with:

  • Beet green and walnut pesto
  • Rainbow chard and almond pesto
  • Kale and pumpkin seed pesto
  • Herb (add whatever you want: parsley, cilantro) and pistachio pesto

And then there is fruit. Now, I am not much of a desert pizza person. Don’t get me wrong, I love dessert. I don’t really feel a meal, or even a snack really, is complete without something sweet at the end. Dessert pizza just isn’t my thing. And, while I am not the girl to reach for the bacon doughnut, I do love the sweet and savory fruit combinations. Peaches in Colorado are outstanding. It can easily be paired with some salty prosciutto or guanciale and a few spicy sprigs of arugula. Fruit also goes really well with all of that pesto. You can use any other variety of stone fruits or if you have access to a plethora of berries, indulge in those.

Another great crop in Colorado is corn. The sweet kernels are perfect for pizza. I, of course, love to combine it with the beautiful chilies that pop up here in summer, such as Anaheim. It’s perfect with a younger cheese like Cotija or a raw goat or sheep’s milk cheese.    

I have been lucky enough to visit a few tomato canning facilities. Both outstanding products.  While they were in different parts of the world, they shared a few common things. The biggest one is that they have a short canning period, only around 90 days. This is because they can and process the fruit at their peak. At least in my opinion, fresh tomatoes are not good year-round, which is why we don’t offer them on our menu. But, at their juicy peak in the summer, tomatoes are one of the greatest gems in the world.

Summer also means one of my favorite cooking styles, grilling. Until last year I hadn’t really delved into grilled pizzas and it was really by accident that I realized just how great they truly are. I had stupidly signed up to compete in the Neapolitan pizza category in Naples and hadn’t actually made Neapolitan pizza in over eight years. Now, I am the kind of person who likes to fly by the seat of her pants. I have ideas and just expect that they will work out somehow, which means I am not always the most organized when it comes to planning. I would much rather just wing it and hope for the best. Anyway, a few weeks before the competition I decided I needed to revisit my Neapolitan dough recipe and at the time my oven at the restaurant only reached 675 degrees F. I needed one that would bake at 900. Long story short, we bought a cheaper home oven which cooked the first few pies gorgeously and left the proceeding ones very under baked, with ghost white bottoms. Charred and crispy bottoms are a must in my book, so, my brilliant husband had the idea to crank the grill up and finish them in there. They turned out beautifully. Now, grilled pizza is a summer staple here. As for the competition in Naples? Well let’s just say Peyton Smith ended up with a few less dough balls in the middle of competition and one very, very grateful pizza girl.

On that note, here’s a basic pesto recipe. Be sure your greens are fresh and your olive oil is extra virgin.

Basic Pesto
Author: 
Recipe type: Sauces
 
Ingredients
  • 3 cups herbs and greens (basil, kale, etc.)
  • 4 cloves garlic
  • ¾ cup grated Parmesan
  • ½ cup pine nuts, walnuts, pistachios, pumpkins seeds, or any other nut or seed.
  • ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
Instructions
  1. Combine everything in a food processor and blend.
  2. Slowly add olive oil and blend until just combined.

 

Audrey Kelly is the owner and pizzaiola at Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, CO.

 

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Summer is Peak Salad Season, so Roll with it Creatively https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/summer-is-peak-salad-season-so-roll-with-it-creatively/ Wed, 01 Jul 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/summer-is-peak-salad-season-so-roll-with-it-creatively/ Salad Days Summer is, unequivocally, salad season. As the days get longer and the mercury and humidity rise, many look for lighter dining options and drink, particularly at lunch. While nothing is “normal” these days as we navigate a COVID-19 pandemic, one thing you can still count on is your customers wanting fresh, vibrant summer […]

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summer salad

Salad Days

Summer is, unequivocally, salad season. As the days get longer and the mercury and humidity rise, many look for lighter dining options and drink, particularly at lunch. While nothing is “normal” these days as we navigate a COVID-19 pandemic, one thing you can still count on is your customers wanting fresh, vibrant summer salads on your menu. And with decent packaging, it couldn’t be easier to send salads to-go!

I’ve personally always enjoyed salads that blended salty, savory, spicy and sweet all into one. I also like simplicity. While a good, old fashioned garden salad will often suffice, check out this flavor bomb that uses few components but nonetheless offers big return on the taste buds.

 

Prosciutto & Parm Salad

Prosciutto & Parm Salad
Author: 
Recipe type: Salad
 
Ingredients
  • 6 ounces arugula
  • 2 ounces fresh mozzarella, torn
  • 2 ounces prosciutto
  • 1 ounce shaved Parmesan
  • 1 ounce minced Calabrian peppers
  • ¼ red onion, thinly sliced
  • Dress with house-made Citrus Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
Instructions
  1. Toss the ingredients together in a large bowl and chill. Plate and serve to order with dressing on the side.

 

*Citrus Vinaigrette

*Citrus Vinaigrette
Author: 
Recipe type: Salad Dressing
 
Ingredients
  • ½ cup orange juice (freshly squeezed is best)
  • 4 tablespoons fresh lime juice
  • 2 oranges, zest removed all around, outer orange part only
  • 1 lime, zest removed all around, outer green part only
  • 4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
  • 1 cup canola oil
Instructions
  1. In a mixing bowl, combine the orange juice, lime juice, orange zest, lime zest and vinegar.
  2. Whisk constantly while combining, then add the vegetable oil in a steady stream.

 

 

Gorgonzola, Pear & Pecan Salad

Gorgonzola, Pear & Pecan Salad
Author: 
Recipe type: Salad
 
Ingredients
  • 6 ounces arugula
  • ½ cup pecans
  • 2 pears, thinly sliced
  • ¼ red onion, thinly sliced
  • 2 ounces Gorgonzola, crumbled
  • Dressed with balsamic vinaigrette
Instructions
  1. Toss the ingredients together in a large bowl and chill. Plate and serve to order with dressing on the side.

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New World Delivery Items https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/new-world-delivery-items/ Mon, 01 Jun 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/new-world-delivery-items/ Adapting menu operations for COVID-19 These past few months have changed our best-laid restaurant plans, culinary directions and revenue streams. For some of us, this is a scary new world, but even though dining rooms may be shuttered and employees laid-off, that doesn’t mean we should concede defeat. Customers are still out there hungering for […]

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Nacho Ordinary Chips

Adapting menu operations for COVID-19

These past few months have changed our best-laid restaurant plans, culinary directions and revenue streams. For some of us, this is a scary new world, but even though dining rooms may be shuttered and employees laid-off, that doesn’t mean we should concede defeat. Customers are still out there hungering for our proprietary products. To recapture our own markets’ share of business we must go back to our baseline revenue streams of pickup and delivery. The latter holds an opportunity with items other than pizza. Here are some facts all of us are staring at and some cascading opportunities to take advantage of while using food as a force for delivery.

Fact: People are staying at home and cooking more: New product lines for delivery can make you look fresh and alive such as oven-ready foods like fries and mozzarella sticks or ice cream pints. They offer you the opportunity to introduce new products with less labor.

Fact: People are not going to the store as much as before: This means your customers may not have fresh greens in their fridge so why not introduce a fresh salad with your delivery.

Fact: Many restaurants and bars are closed. Some restaurateurs and bar owners have just thrown in the towel and opted to not pivot to delivery. Are these closed restaurants in your area and which food items did they serve diners that you can make, box up and deliver? Bar food like wings, ribs, French fries and nachos deliver well.

Fact: Fine dining is all but gone: The high-end culinary restaurants that charge top dollar for meals are suffering greatly. Over the past month though, many intrepid chefs have started with carry-out bento boxes. These Japanese-style compartmentalized lunch boxes can hold anything. You can easily mimic these bento boxes using aluminum pie tins with clear lids for only 34 cents each. Could an appetizer Bento Box of cheese bread, wings, salad and salami be in your customers future?

Now that these constantly changing facts have been brought to bear, you can look at your menu and items in your pizzeria and find opportunities for delivery.

 

Make dough with your dough:

One of the best assets for creativity you have is your proprietary pizza dough. Stretched, rolled, filled, cut and baked or fried, it can become that “add-on” that elevates your revenue with each order.

• Jalapeño Poppers. We’ve started with rolling cream cheese, make-line jalapeños and mozzarella and turned them into creamy, spicy and crunchy heaven.

• Cheese bread with French Fries. Yes, that’s right, oven-ready fries are great on cheese bread. We sprinkle it with a choice of wing sauce, pesto or even white truffle oil and black truffle confetti to turn truffle fries into a masterpiece of deliciousness.

• Charcuterie plates with Asiago-topped dough. It is baked and sliced into strips, paired with Prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiano, salami, sopressata, mortadella, mozzarella and pickled peppers. The app can be made and delivered easily.

• Tuscan Pizzette. Who says pizza
appetizers must have a sauce? This summer, your cheese bread can easily be enhanced with provolone or Piave Vecchio, sliced cherry tomatoes and pesto or Asiago and roasted red peppers.

• Mediterranean Mezze Platter. Pizza dough is amazingly like pita bread, either topped with za’atar or baked plain and accompanied by ready-made hummus or Baba Ghanouj. Surround the hummus with summer cucumbers, eggplant, spinach, feta and tomato accompanied by olives, banana peppers and jalapeño will make this a great appetizer.

• Sauce is the boss. We serve multiple dipping sauces with our breads that combine mayonnaise and sour cream as vehicles to enhance other items like our jalapeño-roasted garlic or chipotle pesto.   

 

Freshness matters

Salads with a protein you already have on hand are a culinary pillar in bars, taverns, trattorias, cafes and fine-dining restaurants everywhere. Most of these may still be shuttered. As America gets more sedentary sitting at home this summer, there will be more calls for salad sales.

Grilled Chicken or Chicken Wing Caesar. The possibilities are endless with your chicken wings, boneless wings or IQF grilled chicken breasts. It all depends on the flavor you want to present.

• Fresh Tomato and Basil in a Caprese Salad. Summer is the time for tomatoes. This stunning salad is best shingled in a round container with a small spinach salad in the middle. The pesto could be cupped and the whole salad is best with coarse sea salt.

• Fennel Salad. Thin-sliced fennel with red onion, lemon and olive.

• Greek Chicken Salad. Fresh spinach, olives, tomato and feta make a great combo with any of your chicken options.

What’s the Plan Stan?

Introducing new items may increase sales, but what about the bottom line?

Food and labor costs are all about survival, which makes this recipe the most important of all.

Here is a real-world work-up for a Chicken Caesar Salad:

Romaine ­- $0.60

Croutons ­- $0.18

Chicken ­- $0.86

Dressing ­- $0.30

Parmesan ­- $0.28

Pie tin ­- $0.25

Pie tin lid ­- $0.09

Wrapped fork ­- $0.08

Total Cost ­= $2.64

If salad sells for $6.99 = 38% cost (or) $4.35 Gross salad revenue

If salad sells for $7.99 = 33% cost (or) $5.35 Gross salad revenue

If salad sells for $8.99 = 29% cost (or) $6.35 Gross salad revenue

Key: None of these are prices are right or wrong. You, your market, your customers will determine sales.

 

Nacho Ordinary Chips

Who doesn’t like chips, salsa, cheese and guacamole? This delivery item is easy to make and after obtaining a case of chips, all the other ingredients can be found on your makeline. You may think, “Hey, I’m not a Mexican joint?” but who is filling the gap of that closed Mexican place down the street or that bar or theater that used to serve nachos. This can be served in four to six ounce to-go cups for a great visual and the colors of the Mexican flag. Make ahead of time to allow for speedy delivery.

Get the Nacho Ordinary Chips recipe.

JOHN GUTEKANST  owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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A 6-Step Process for Creating a New Menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/a-6-step-process-for-creating-a-new-menu/ Mon, 01 Jun 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/a-6-step-process-for-creating-a-new-menu/ Menu Debut Visibility is the number one source of lifeblood for a business, restaurants especially. A surefire way to be seen is by getting a different look with new menu items. A new menu gives the restaurant, quite literally, an entire list of fresh items to promote in-store and on social media. You need a […]

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menu

Menu Debut

Visibility is the number one source of lifeblood for a business, restaurants especially. A surefire way to be seen is by getting a different look with new menu items.

A new menu gives the restaurant, quite literally, an entire list of fresh items to promote in-store and on social media. You need a way to create the hype and a new menu is the perfect opportunity, but they don’t magically appear.

So how does one create new menu items? I have a six-step process that I use every time.

1. Two big questions

First, I review my old menu and decide what’s coming off it by raw numbers. Using the POS system, I run a 12-month report and look for the items that are deemed expendable. Then I look at the item, and even though it’s not selling, I ask two questions:

  • Is this item unique to me? If it is, I may consider keeping it because it is an item that customers cannot get elsewhere.
  • Can I rename the item to something catchy and create new buzz? This may sound like a corny idea, but it works. Time and time again we have changed the name of our menu items and this has been proven to increase sales of the item.

After analyzing the old menu — and possibly making what’s old new again — I can start the process of thinking what type of items I might want to add.

2. Do the research

I start to play another numbers’ game — counting the items coming off the menu and deciding if I’m happy with the current size. If I want to stay where I was, I’ll replace an item, one-for-one. Every time, however, without fail, I end up adding more items than we cut off (don’t worry, you’ll see how to navigate this challenge in the fifth step).   

I then start to consider what I may want to add, beginning by looking for trends online. Is there anything that has gone viral that I can reproduce? Is there anything special that one of my hundreds of pizza friends on Facebook are doing in another part of the country? I ask another important question: Have I eaten anything lately that was inspiring?

3. Get collaborative

Once I have an idea of what it may be that I want to reproduce, I bring the idea to my team. If you’re excited over an idea, you may want to get to the kitchen immediately. However, you want to get another set of eyes on that cool idea you found online as soon as possible. Don’t get set on adding any one thing. Work through the process first.

Once your team hears the ideas and starts to think of ways to recreate the item, next you will want to reach out to your purveyors and ask for samples of different ingredients being used to create the items. If we add a new ingredient that we currently do not carry, then we try to use that new component on other menu items a few times, rather than just once. Think of it as a test drive — and there’s more testing to come.

4. Taste test time

At this point we should know what we are deleting from the current menu and what menu items we are adding. We should also have a good feeling of how we will be making the new menu item. Now it’s time for the (hopefully) fun part: the taste test.

I conduct tests in two parts. Step one is with the staff, and it’s very informal. Whoever is on that shift for the day tastes the new items with me, and we all give feedback. The second step is much more formal, bringing in family and friends interested in a free lunch and a new menu tasting. I print scorecards for each menu item and instruct the taste-testers to score on appearance, taste and marketability. Then I ask them for their favorite item that they tasted on the day. They always leave with a full belly, and most importantly, they exchange some great, honest feedback.

5. Final choices

Now, this is where it gets interesting, because even though I said not to get too excited about any particular item you may be adding, it is natural if you do by now. This step is all about reviewing the feedback from the scoresheets and voting on the final cut.

I like to review these with a very trusted member of my staff. I recommend someone on your team with expertise, such as your head pizzaiolo or chef. The comments and scorecard always seem to amaze us. If we thought we had a real winner, maybe testers liked the idea but didn’t like the toppings or exact pizza. In that case, we may modify the item by adding or changing a topping on it. Some reviews are far easier — we keep all the clear-cut winners and get rid of the clear-cut losers.

This is where I take into account how many items are coming off the menu and add the new ones accordingly. As mentioned earlier, you might have come up with some extra new menu items, but if they didn’t make the grade on the scorecard, you can forget about them (or keep them in mind for your next menu refresh). At this point, you are left with your new menu items!

6. Prepare to debut

The final step is bringing the new items to market. Behind the scenes, we’ll be working on updating all our menus between physical copies and all the digital platforms we may use. Importantly, this is also the time to raise your current menu prices, but that’s an article for another day.

Along with customer-facing materials, at this time we also create build guides for the new items and train our staff on how to make the products. Being that visibility is the lifeline of the business, I do a high-definition and extensive photo and video shoot of all the new items as well. Then I start to leak the pictures and videos at least 30 days ahead of schedule, along with the date of launch.

Trust the process, but be sure to make it your own. You’ll soon be on your way to creating a visible new menu that’s bound to create the buzz you desire. 

Nick Bogacz  is the founder and president of Caliente Pizza & Draft House in Pittsburgh.

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White pizzas help diversify your menu https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/white-pizzas-help-diversify-your-menu/ Mon, 01 Jun 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/white-pizzas-help-diversify-your-menu/ White Hot I’ll freely admit: I’m a tomato guy. I love the acidic, sweet, fresh flavor of an heirloom tomato right out of the garden. I equally adore the deliciousness and vibrancy a great tomato sauce gives pizza. I’m pretty heavy handed with the sauce when I make pizzas for myself, so when I fall […]

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White Hot

I’ll freely admit: I’m a tomato guy. I love the acidic, sweet, fresh flavor of an heirloom tomato right out of the garden. I equally adore the deliciousness and vibrancy a great tomato sauce gives pizza. I’m pretty heavy handed with the sauce when I make pizzas for myself, so when I fall in love with a White Pie that means the pizza maker really did something right and found a way to infuse some positive flavor.

The first truly great white pizza I ever encountered was about 15 years ago at Totonno’s Pizzeria on Coney Island. It was creamy, fragrant and downright flavorful. In its simplicity there was mastery. It set the bar for every white pie I’d ever have going forward.

And for many years I didn’t encounter a single white pizza that came remotely close. Not at the International Pizza Challenge and not even at some of the nation’s landmark pizza establishments. Then I visited Mark Dym at his pizzeria in Denver. There, at Marco’s Coal-Fired Pizzeria, I had another “holy cow” moment with a white pie. I was blown away. I remember telling him at the time, “You might possibly have the best white pie in America.” I suspect he enjoyed hearing that.

Since that time I’ve had some pretty darn good white pies. I’ve even made some decent ones myself in the PT test kitchen. White pies travel really well, too. And since we’re in the middle of a new normal at the moment that is heavily focused on carryout and delivery as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, why not add some to your menu?

Here’s one I really like, and we sneak some tomatoes on it for color and to capture that tomato flavor. Is that cheating?

White Knight

14-inch pizza dough

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon fresh garlic, chopped

6 ounces mozzarella

3 ounces fresh mozzarella, torn

3 ounces speck, thinly sliced

12 basil leaves, torn

1/4 cup cherry tomatoes, cut in halve and coated with olive oil

Open dough up to a 12- or 14-inch diameter circle. Brush with olive oil and top with garlic, cheeses, speck, basil and tomatoes. Bake.

After removing from oven, drizzle with a little olive oil and add a pinch of sea salt.

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Shredded, Diced or Sliced Mozzarella? “Cutting the Cheese” https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/shredded-diced-or-sliced-mozzarella-cutting-the-cheese/ Fri, 01 May 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/shredded-diced-or-sliced-mozzarella-cutting-the-cheese/ Break down advantages of shredded, diced or sliced mozzarella The Birth of Low Moisture Mozzarella In the 1930s, Midwestern dairy producers saw an opportunity. Mozzarella had already become a popular product but took days to produce and lacked the shelf life necessary for long distance shipping. The first step toward solving the problem was achieved […]

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Break down advantages of shredded, diced or sliced mozzarella

cheese slices, mozzarella preparation

The Birth of Low Moisture Mozzarella

In the 1930s, Midwestern dairy producers saw an opportunity. Mozzarella had already become a popular product but took days to produce and lacked the shelf life necessary for long distance shipping. The first step toward solving the problem was achieved by increasing the temperature at which the milk was curdled, effectively drying the final product. The Stella Cheese Company of Campbellsport, Wisconsin, then developed a bacterial ratio that decreased the curdling process from three days to just one, which translated to major cost reduction. Compared with East Coast mozzarella, this new variation was firmer, higher in fat concentration and slightly yellow in appearance. Cheese companies labeled the new product Pizza Cheese, due to its greatest source of demand, until the FDA codified it as low moisture mozzarella under its 1965 Standards of Identity. Defined as a cheese with no less than 45-percent milk fat and between 45- and 52-percent moisture, this is the mozzarella that accompanied pizza on its rise to popularity in America.

While fresh mozzarella must be torn or cut, low moisture mozzarella is firm enough to be shredded, diced or sliced. Each preparation lends itself to specific uses in the pizzeria.

 

Shredded Mozzarella

The majority of American pizzerias use shredded mozzarella because of its convenience and consistency. Most planetary dough mixers have built-in attachment hubs for cheese shredders, making it possible for operators to convert a five-pound block into pizza-ready shreds in seconds. The result is easy to grab and distribute across the pizza’s surface.

According to Dr. Mali “The Cheese King” Reddy, shredded mozzarella provides the melt and pull characteristics we’ve come to expect from mainstream American pizza. Dr. Reddy has consulted for the national chains, led the research and development team for Leprino Foods, writes for Cheese Market News, and holds over 150 patents for his work in biology and dairy science. He credits shredded mozzarella’s interconnected casein network for increasing stretch over other preparation methods. As an added benefit, shredded mozzarella produces a more voluminous appearance than its sliced counterpart because pieces can interlink, leaving pockets of space in between.

Those looking to save on prep time and labor costs may opt for pre-shredded mozzarella. The work is already done and it even tends to be more consistent than cheese shredded in-house. Since cheese purchased pre-shredded is not used immediately after processing, it often comes coated in anti-caking agents. Starches and cellulose are used to reduce clumping in the bag and to help the melted cheese retain separation but may come with side-effects like excess browning and textural clutter. Some companies have responded by developing pre-shredded products that don’t contain any anti-caking agents, instead using gas to maintain each shred’s independence.

“Pre-shredded cheese also tends to be a younger cheese because the package it comes in is gas-flushed to slow down the aging process,” says Laura Meyer, administrator and instructor at the International School of Pizza in San Francisco, California. “The block is vacuum sealed (so it’s) continuously aging.” She points out how aging manifests itself visually, particularly at slice shops where customers choose by sight rather than item description. “Younger cheese tends to not brown quite as much. Having nice white cheese that melts and re-melts well is key.”

 

Diced Mozzarella

Operators looking for an extreme version of the benefits offered by shredded mozzarella have the option of diced mozzarella. Tiny beads of cheese are even easier to spread and provide operators with a degree of control that’s tough to achieve with larger pieces. That control can lead to huge savings in food cost. Audrey Kelly, of Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado, switched from shredded to diced mozzarella after noticing that her staff refused to use portion control cups. “With the diced (mozzarella), it is much harder to grab with your hands so you are forced to use the cups,” she says. “You save thousands of dollars a year by portioning out your cheese.”

Diced and shredded mozzarella part ways when it comes to melting characteristics. While shredded mozzarella provides elasticity, diced mozzarella does not. The small size of diced mozzarella makes it unlikely to fuse while melting, so it won’t give you the luxurious cheese pull exhibited by shredded and sliced mozzarella.

If your operation is heavily dependent on delivery, diced mozzarella may be your Holy Grail. As Dr. Reddy points out, “diced mozzarella is the best choice for delivery pizza,’” because it allows for fast moisture release, whereas other preparation methods can prevent moisture from escaping before being trapped inside a pizza box.

 

Sliced Mozzarella

The pizza industry is seeing an increase in demand for sliced mozzarella thanks to the rising popularity of styles that apply sauce on top of cheese. Grandma pizza, upside-down Sicilian, Detroit style and Chicago deep dish all benefit from a layer of cheese to serve as a barrier between crust and sauce. Many makers of these styles prefer sliced mozzarella because it provides a solid surface upon which sauce can be easily spread. Some of the most famous pizzerias in New York City, such as John’s of Bleecker Street, Arturo’s of Greenwich Village, and Brooklyn’s L&B Spumoni Gardens, use sliced mozzarella for this very reason.

Brian Spangler launched Apizza Scholls in Portland, Oregon, in 2004 choosing sliced mozzarella after testing it against other preparation methods. “We preferred the overall mouthfeel,” he says of the sliced mozzarella trials. “The added bonus is that everything sticks to the cheese, which is stuck to the dough, so nothing slides off the crust while consuming. That is always a total bummer pizza moment.”

There’s also a consistency benefit to using sliced mozzarella. Companies usually sell between 0.8- and one-ounce slices, so knowing your target cheese quantity makes it easy to portion. “We know nine ounces works perfectly,” says Lenny Rago of Panino’s Pizzeria in Chicago. “We use it to keep portion control, it assures us that each pizza will be consistent and cooked properly.” Tommy DeGrazia of Sofia Pizza Shoppe in New York City agrees, “It takes human error out of the equation. I don’t have to worry about a heavy hand or a light hand.”

 

Which is Best?

Choosing the right mozzarella preparation depends on your product and priorities. Consensus is strong that sliced mozzarella provides the most effective surface when applying sauce on top of cheese. Diced mozzarella is a good solution for delivery pizza and lends itself well to application by portion control cup. Shredded gives the best cheese pull and is easy to handle. Since cheese carries the highest food cost of pizza’s essential components, it’s important to select the preparation that maintains control and consistency without sacrificing texture and taste.

Scott Wiener is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org.

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Five Basic Tastes on Pizza: Sweet, Sour, Salty, Bitter and Savory https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/five-basic-tastes-on-pizza-sweet-sour-salty-bitter-and-savory/ Fri, 01 May 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/five-basic-tastes-on-pizza-sweet-sour-salty-bitter-and-savory/ Learn how to use the five basic tastes on pizza to create knockout topping combinations The perfect pizza crust results from flour, water, yeast and time. There is a science to it. The key to why pizza tastes so good also lies in science. Topping a pizza, more science. It’s the melding of the five […]

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Learn how to use the five basic tastes on pizza to create knockout topping combinations

The perfect pizza crust results from flour, water, yeast and time. There is a science to it.

The key to why pizza tastes so good also lies in science. Topping a pizza, more science. It’s the melding of the five basic tastes — sweet, sour, salty, bitter and savory (or umami).

In layman’s terms, the taste receptors in one’s mouth are able to distinguish between the tastes and perceive them in different ways. They send alerts and stimulate brain neurons.   

Feta and Bacon-wrapped Fig Pizza with Pistachio

Feta and Bacon-wrapped Fig Pizza with Pistachio

If you want to see the balance of the five tastes on pizza in action, look no further than the International Pizza Challenge. Pizza makers spend several months perfecting the pizza topping combinations. We’ve seen such interesting combinations as:

  • spicy garlic sauce, red onions, white cheddar crown, Portobello mushrooms, prime aged fillet mignon, red peppers, scallions and finished with a balsamic glaze
  • apple, bacon crumbles, peanut butter and jalapeño
  • figs, bacon, caramelized onion, arugula, goat cheese, shredded mozzarella and balsamic glaze
  • mozzarella/provolone blend, Italian sausage, cup and char pepperoni, creamy ricotta, shaved Manchego and oregano.

In Tony Gemignani’s Trending “The Missing Ingredient”, he narrowed the tastes down to four: sweet, salty, savory and acidic. He wants every pizza to have at least three of the four profiles.

He’s not alone in the various interpretations. A few years ago, some scientists from Purdue University even introduced a sixth taste: fat (also called oleogustus). There has also been a contingency that wants spicy added to the list. Capsaicin in spicy ingredients causes a burning sensation. While many love the “flavor”, spicy does fit the criteria to be a basic taste. However, the five other tastes are well defined and point to why pizza tastes so good.

Think of the five tastes as the pillars for flavors in recipe development. Each has a role to play to create the ultimate pizza combination. They are there to stand out from, complement or counterbalancing each other. Let’s break down each taste:

  • Sweet. Sweetness plays a powerful role on pizza. Red sauced pies automatically have an element of sweet from the tomatoes, which also happen to fit into salty and Umami, as well. Sweetness can be used to bring out the flavor in ingredients or calm spicy toppings.  Usual suspects include sweets like fruit, sugar, honey, maple syrup and agave nectar. There are other ingredients you may not classify as sweet. But they are, like caramelized onions, sweet potatoes, squash, basil and balsamic vinegar.
  • Sour. Looking for that punch of flavor. That’s where sour comes in. It can counterbalance sweetness or heat. When it comes to sour, think most vinegars, citrus and tart fruits, pickled vegetables and cultured dairy products.
  • Salty. Saltiness is very important to pizza perfection. It enhances everything else. It also counterbalances bitterness. Cured meats, anchovies, olives and most cheeses fall into the salty category.
  • Bitter. This is one that may not resonate at first glance. Although it is used to send a warning that something has surpassed its expiration or is toxic, a “good” bitterness can cut the sweetness or richness. Some common bitter ingredients include parsley, kale, arugula, escarole, radicchio and Brussels sprouts,
  • Savory (Umami). This is the taste that completes the profile with that perfect savory component. This is the newest of the tastes. Umami was identified by scientists in 1908. Mushrooms, tomato sauce and most cheeses, especially Parmesan, hit the umami notes.

 

Mix and Match

Creating the perfect pizza topping combination is a game of mixing and matching flavors. You take the component of each taste to find the right balance. Toppings are endless. Many pizzerias offer 40 or more options. You know you have a perfect pizza from taste. Instead of listing ingredients, balance that next specialty pie using the five tastes.

What if a combination is…

  • Too bland? Explore ingredients that are sweet, salty or savory.
  • Too salty? Hit it with a sweet topping.
  • Too sweet? Finish it with a bitter green or a sour ingredient.
  • Too tangy? Sweeten it up or add an umami element.
  • Overpoweringly savory? Add sweet, sour or bitter ingredients.

 

Mushroom Umami Pizza

Mushrooms hit high marks on umami. Label this pizza a savory, comfort food.  

Get the Mushroom Umami Pizza recipe.

 

Sopressata Suprema

While a Margherita pizza with sopressata hits all of the tastes. Let’s explore a different variation.

Get the Sopressata Suprema recipe.

Denise Greer is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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Napoletana Style Guide for Any Crust https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/napoletana-style-guide-for-any-crust/ Fri, 01 May 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/napoletana-style-guide-for-any-crust/ Explore the Italian style and marketing approaches The combination of San Marzano tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil has yet to be superseded in the pizza game. Its simplicity in perfection is unrivaled. It’s very serendipitous that the Italian flag, the inspiration for the naming of the Margherita, in honor of Queen Margherita of Savoy, has […]

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margherita pizza, neapolitan style

Explore the Italian style and marketing approaches

The combination of San Marzano tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil has yet to be superseded in the pizza game. Its simplicity in perfection is unrivaled. It’s very serendipitous that the Italian flag, the inspiration for the naming of the Margherita, in honor of Queen Margherita of Savoy, has those three colors which yielded those three iconic Italian ingredients. If there was blue in the Italian flag, who knows what would have become of the original Margherita.

Neapolitan or Napoletana styles have not gone anywhere since their inception. It’s only grown from its base. The original three styles of pizza, Margherita, Marinara and Mastunicola (rendered fat, a sprinkling of cheese, and basil), still exist today. With that said, nothing compares to the overall popularity of the Margherita.

In Naples today, a popular ingredient on pizza is pistachios, roasted by the fire; it is truly unique. I love this topping, but I rarely see it on American pizza. The toppings of 100 years ago to those of today all share the same ethos, simplicity and perfection. Naples style crust is exceptionally unique and specific and not easy to duplicate. Regardless of your pizza crust, be it Detroit style, New York, Chicago, Roman, Sicilian, or St Louis; fresh mozzarella, San Marzanos and basil will always work on any pizza. So, what else can work? What other notes can we pull from Naples to translate to our own in-house crust?

I’m very lucky and happy to have multiple styles of pizza at my restaurants. At Andolini’s Sliced we have our own Tulsa style, which is a mix of classic New York style and California ingenuity with an Oklahoma flour. Additionally, at Sliced, we pay homage to New York style, Romana, as well as Napoletana, cooked in a wood-fired oven. I get to see first-hand what works in translating the Napoletana mindset across multiple styles of pizza. In each variation of this, I do use a Margherita. With a pizza style so simple, you’d think options would be limited, but they are not.

Mozzarella: In Naples, fresh mozzarella typically prepared from pre-cut chunks. However, you can slice it from the ovaline or tear it thin or in large chunks. This will affect how it melts, thinner shred turns hard and burns faster, larger chunks, and the top will sear, especially in a wood-fired oven. When placed close to the edge the mozzarella will burn and harden. If you use a block shred instead of fresh mozzarella, it will melt in the classic Americana fashion with entirely different results and lose some authenticity.

San Marzano: From the plum out of the can, you can place it through a food mill for the classic texture of a thicker sauce free of tomato flesh. Or you can rip apart the plums for a more rustic look. You can remove the seeds before milling for a more uniform sauce or leave them in. Classically the Marzano won’t need a lot of help. Still, if applying this style of tomato to a different pizza crust, you can choose how you want to modify it, be it adding EVOO or Romano to the sauce or any other variation you prefer in your base sauce.

Basil: How crazy can this topping get? it’s just leaves, right? Well, the devil is in the details. In Naples, basil is sometimes put on the pizza right in the center, one to three leaves that will not be in every bite of the pizza once cooked. Almost done for show rather than taste. I like the mozzarella placed on top of each ripped basil leaf to protect the basil from burning. That’s how I prepare wood-fired basil as a topping. For my other styles of crusts, I like to julienne the basil and place it on post bake, so it’s spread evenly. Sometimes it’s ripped and placed on the pizza right before going to the table to maximize the fresh scent of newly torn basil. I genuinely do not care for the look or taste of burnt basil leaves but to each their own.

A make line in a Naples kitchen is simple; all killer, no filler ingredients. Some salami added to make it a Diavolo or the lack of tomatoes to make it a Bianco. Everything in its simplicity. I love simple prep lines, its streamlines execution.

For these styles, you can name them what they would be on a Naples menu or something completely different that you create. When you do name it the same, it becomes an homage and takes on the responsibility of being authentic. If you love the flavor combination but do a significant variation to it, you set yourself us for failure naming it the same as Naples. For example, I would never name a pizza that has julienne basil on it a Margherita because you would never see that in Naples.

Therein lies the marketing aspect of this. It will never come off wrong as long as it’s performed with some level of authenticity. Diced tomatoes or balsamic glaze on a pizza seeking an authenticity pull screams phony and bush league. Not just to pizza purists but to anyone who’s ever been to Italy or loves Napoletana. I mentioned earlier pistachios on a pizza is very Napoletana even though not pervasive. There is a lot of simple ingenuity to glean inspiration from in Naples.

A style I saw in Naples called the four stations; it used two thins rolled pieces of dough to separate the Naples style pizza into quadrants where four different toppings styles placed in each of the four quadrants of the pizza. I thought this was a very unique and exciting idea. We do it ourselves and it sells very well and garners a lot of praise.

Another way to link Naples to your menu is blending the regions in your naming of items. For example, we named a Napoletana style pizza the Parma because it had Prosciutto de Parma and Parmesan Reggiano on the pizza. Using buffalo mozzarella as opposed to cow’s milk mozzarella lends itself to the authenticity of Naples and the naming of items with a Napoletana flair. All these ways of integrating Naples into whatever style of pizza you serve distinguishes you and your brand as knowledgeable, as well as thoughtful to your customer. The marketing of it as such only serves to advance your cause. If you are seeking the push for authenticity in your brand approach, earnest and knowledgeable Naples style homages work. When done thoughtfully, I’ve never seen it not work regardless of the style of pizza crust.

Mike Bausch is the owner of Andolini’s Pizzeria in Tulsa, Oklahoma.

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Pizza Styles: Sicilian vs. Grandma https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/pizza-styles-sicilian-vs-grandma/ Wed, 01 Apr 2020 11:43:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/pizza-styles-sicilian-vs-grandma/ Know the difference between the two square pizzas, Grandma pie and Sicilian Pizza In the first few months that we were open, someone wrote a scathing review on how terrible our deep-dish pizza was. They said, “while the bottom was crispy, it was mostly dough, and seriously lacking cheese and toppings,” along with some other […]

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Know the difference between the two square pizzas, Grandma pie and Sicilian Pizza

In the first few months that we were open, someone wrote a scathing review on how terrible our deep-dish pizza was. They said, “while the bottom was crispy, it was mostly dough, and seriously lacking cheese and toppings,” along with some other choice descriptions of the pie. While I now know better than to even read Yelp, as I take every bad review to heart, this was not one of them. I can tell you that we didn’t make deep dish pizza then and we don’t make it now. It is not a style that I am very familiar with, nor will I claim to know very much about. What this person was describing is our Sicilian-style pizza. Yes, Sicilians are also baked in a pan, but structured totally different than Chicago deep dish pies. The whole experience was just my first taste of how important it is to constantly educate your customers on your product.

While, at least in my mind, Chicago deep dish and Sicilian are two very different pies, there are some styles that share similar characteristics and tend to blur the lines. We’re talking Grandmas and Sicilians — two of my absolute favorites. I’ve eaten quite a bit of each and it’s always interesting to see people’s different takes on them. We sell both at my pizzeria and it is interesting to observe how a lot of people strongly prefer one or the other. While they are both a style of pizza that is risen in an oiled pan with a crispy bottom, a lot of the similarities stop there. The obvious differences being the shape of pan used and height of the pie.

My version of a Grandma pie isn’t exactly a typical one. I call it Patty style after my mom, and it is the pizza she made me growing up. It’s a thin pan pie, with cheese spilling over the edges and sesame seeds lining the bottom. We don’t rise or par bake our Grandmas. Something that I believe is not technically correct, but I’ve tried both ways and this is what I prefer. The seeds and extra virgin olive oil create an almost buttery taste, which, combined with the caramelized cheese eludes to pure decadence. The dough rises enough in the oven to create air pockets, while still maintaining a denser crust. Our Sicilians on the other hand are quite the opposite. It is a style that I have worked tirelessly on over the years and finally asked the advice of someone whose Sicilians are legendary. The one and only Chris Decker, chef/partner at Metro Pizza in Las Vegas.

They are risen for hours and then par baked. The bottom should always be crispy, providing a nice crunch to contrast the pillowy, light middle. They are rectangular in shape as opposed to the traditional square shape of a Grandma. All of our pizza is naturally leavened, AKA sourdough. The Sicilian is where you can truly taste the beauty of this method. The long rise and fermentation really accentuates the flavor and strengthens the texture. I think of Sicilians as a cloud that carries a light amount of toppings. Some people might think that since the Sicilian is thicker in structure it can hold up to more toppings. This is a valid point. However, the beauty of this pie is to taste the phenomenal flavor and structure of the dough. As such, I believe whatever it is topped with should highlight and enhance it instead of covering it up.

My favorite is when it is made into an OTP or Original Tomato Pie. Sliced mozzarella on the bottom with sauce, garlic, extra virgin olive oil, Sicilian oregano and grated Parmesan on top. I cannot take credit for this. Everything I learned about OTP’s was from Tony Gemignani. As with most things pizza, he taught me the true beauty and simplicity of this pie. Tony is a pizzaiolo who sticks truly to the origins of a style of pizza. If you eat a pie at any of his places you know that it will not only be one of the best pizzas you ever have, but it will also be technically correct. I, on the other hand, like to have a base knowledge of a style and then veer off in my own interpretation of it. So, to give you a more concrete definition of what exactly the differences and similarities are of Sicilians and Grandma pizzas I thought I would ask a few people I consider to be experts.

Tony said that “the bottom on a Grandma tends to be crispier because more oil is used so it has an almost fried texture.” The perfect description of something I always try to create but never know how to put into words. Giovanni Cesarano, of King Umberto’s, agrees that it should have a crispy bottom, finishing the pie on the deck of the oven to achieve that quality. Cesarano also says that the sauce is an important characteristic of the Grandma, stating that the “traditional style toppings are an uncooked plum tomato sauce with plenty of flavor. You should be able to taste the garlic, and less cheese than a regular pie.” Gemignani also acknowledged this important fact, describing Grandmas as “more sauce centric.” As for Sicilians, Decker says that one of the most important qualities is “proof time.” This is what makes the Sicilian thicker and airier as opposed to the thinner, crunchier Grandma.

As with making any style of pizza, I believe that the fun and beauty in it is creating a product that reflects you and that you are happy with. Some people like their Sicilians with huge air pockets, others prefer them dense. I’ve had Grandmas that are soft and melt in your mouth and others as crunchy as a cracker. If you want to pile on the toppings, well that is up to you. The one characteristic of the two that any pizza maker I know will insist and judge it on is that it better have a good, crispy bottom.

In the wise words of Chris Decker, I leave you with this, “Both pizzas are fantastic when cooked with the most important ingredient of all time, love.”

Audrey Kelly is the owner and pizziola at Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, CO.

>> Explore Pizza Dough Recipes for Top Trending Pizza Styles including Detroit, New York, Grandma, Sicilian, Chicago Thin and Deep Dish. <<

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Potatoes on the Menu: Starch Raving Mad https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/potatoes-on-the-menu-starch-raving-mad/ Wed, 01 Apr 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/potatoes-on-the-menu-starch-raving-mad/ Potato Pizza Ideas Don’t hate … potate Potatoes are like life; they never cease to amaze and confuse me. These orbs that grow nestled in mother earth’s embrace give sustenance to most humans on our little orb and follow only wheat and rice in the heavy-food-use hall of fame. Each year, I taste and use […]

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Potato Pizza Ideas

Don’t hate … potate

Potatoes are like life; they never cease to amaze and confuse me. These orbs that grow nestled in mother earth’s embrace give sustenance to most humans on our little orb and follow only wheat and rice in the heavy-food-use hall of fame. Each year, I taste and use a lot of different potatoes from my farmer friends but every fall I get a new potato surprise to twist my small brain. Last year, the French had a hand in this spud lunacy.

 

Silence of the Yams

It was a mild autumn day as I drove up and down the quiet Southeast Ohio country roads to Jenkinson Farm. The owner, my friend Judy, had told me that she was growing a new type of potato that I would love. After showing me around her farm, she walked me past squawking Guinea hens to the side of a large hill where her potato patch was. She made a beeline to the black tubs the size of half whiskey barrels sitting on the side. “John, check this out,” Judy said smiling as she stabbed her fingers into the thick black mulch. I smiled at the big reveal expecting huge, life-changing spuds of gold to appear. I was shocked as she brought up a handful of oblong, marble-sized white orbs. “Behold, the La Ratte potato,” Judy said, adding, “It’s French and very expensive.” I kept the smile on my face and my disappointment well hidden. I purchased all the La Rattes, purples, yams and ground lamb, bid Judy farewell and skedaddled back to my pizzeria.

When I returned, I promptly boiled some of the La Ratte potatoes. Thinking they were overdone, I strained them and tossed them on a sheet pan with sea salt and extra virgin olive oil and walked away to mix dough. Five minutes later, my prep chef yelled back to me, “Oh my god, these are so freakin’ good.” I walked up to the potatoes and popped one in my mouth. Instead of being mushy, the outer rim of the La Ratte was semi-hard, almost crisp like a large potato Skittle. The overall dense and waxy interior bowled me over with buttery cream and nutty, hazelnut like taste. “This is a winner,” I muttered, feeling sorry that I doubted Judy but happy with my newfound spuds.

 

Starch Trek

Potatoes originated in South America over 8000 years ago. Grown all over the world, they are rich in umami and most exhibit either a waxy, like russet or floury texture, like Yukons. Waxy potatoes tend to keep their shape when cooked and floury potatoes exhibit a soft, fluffy texture and tend to fall apart when cooked. Try to avoid potatoes with a green skin — this is caused by exposure to light or sun. Potatoes should be firm and not squishy and store them in a cool dark place. For my pizzeria, I like to use larger russet potatoes but also love the texture of Yukon Golds, Corolla and Red Bliss potatoes.

 

It’s Just the Way I Yam

Don’t forget the wonderful sweet potato renaissance that is occurring in this industry. Mashed, piped and baked, sweets are a great counterpoint to fatty meats like sausage, chorizo and bacon. The smaller yams and white, sweet potatoes are also very visually appealing with salty cheeses, like feta, gruyere and even blue cheeses. Finishing sweet potatoes off with maple syrup or spicy honey is a must in almost all situations and sweets also stand up well to sharp herbaceous greens like arugula, leaf mustard, kale and chard.

 

A Peeling Flavors

Potatoes are extremely versatile and perfect for any restaurant or pizzeria. Here are some accompanying toppings and flavors to enhance a potato experience:

Cilantro, leek, artichoke, bacon, ham, crème fraiche, dill, fennel, nutmeg, olive oil, thyme, turnips, onions, celeriac, sour cream-(daaa), butter, garlic, cheddar, gruyere, Parmigiano, goat cheese, gouda, chives, pecorino, chickpeas, eggs, chilies, kale, horseradish, marjoram, cauliflower, carrot, basil, celery, olives, lemon, walnuts, pepper, parsley, paprika, pesto, onions, mint, mushrooms, coconut, chipotle, yogurt, chocolate, vanilla, buttermilk, rosemary, sorrel, spinach, tahini, watercress, steak, sausage, jalapeño and wheat.

 

Darth Tater

You may think putting potatoes into your menu mix is a walk on the “Dark Side” but it is not a big, or expensive transition. I have had potatoes on my pizza menu for years — as an individual topping and on several specialty pizzas. We either buy locally in-season and easily roast the chopped pieces in our ovens or buy frozen IQF. I’ve found some great delicious international uses for potatoes in a pizzeria. Here are some great starring roles and quick recipes for the potato force to be with you:

  • Afghani Bolani. Roast and mash potatoes. Cut up a few leeks and roast with oil until wilted, not burned. Cut a bunch of cilantro finely. Add the mashed potato, leek and cilantro in a bowl and mix with salt and ground cumin to taste. Roll out a large or small proprietary dough ball into a long, oblong shape ranging from 12 inches to up to three feet long and no fatter than 10 inches wide. Place the dough on parchment vertically in front of you and place the potato mix on the left half of the dough. Fold over the right side of the dough and seal with your fingers. You may egg-wash or not and bake in a deck oven at 550 F for 12 minutes or until golden brown. Delicious.
  • Potato Stuffed Crust. Using the same potato mash. Season and form the pizza round two inches larger than you want your pizza to be. Fill the outer edge with the potato mix using a piping bag and fold the edge of the dough over the potato mixture. Let proof for five minutes or more ensuring that the dough crust will stick and not pop up. Sauce and cheese the pizza and cook as normal. Let cool before serving.
  • Smashed Fingers. Boil fingerlings from six to 10 minutes and drain. (Local, fresher potatoes will cook faster.) The potatoes will continue to cook while cooling. After any pizza is five minutes from being fully baked, pull it from oven and smash the fingerlings one-by-one with a large metal spatula or the palm of your hand. (The skin will hold most of the potato together even when smashed.) Gently hoist the potato on the pizza and continue until the pizza is filled. Bake the pizza for the additional minutes until cooked.

Super Potato Pie: Using a food processor cutter with a thin cutting attachment, slice the potatoes into a lexan of water and salt mix. (The salinity should be that of sea water.) Let the slices sit in this salted water until limp, 15 minutes. Rinse under cold water to squeeze the starches out of the slices. Dry on a towel and place the slices into a large pan with extra virgin olive oil. Place into a pizza oven at 475F for eight minutes to just cook the slices. Cut, clean and finely chop one leek and roast in extra virgin olive oil until just limp, when cool, add to some béchamel, (white sauce) mixed with a small amount of ricotta and salt to taste. Spread the sauce thinly on a proprietary pizza dough then shingle the potato slices around the pizza. Throw a rope of extra virgin on the potato slices and bake in the oven at 475 for 10 to 12 minutes or until the bottom is well cooked and the dough is golden brown.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

John explores more on potatoes and menu ideas:

International Spec-Taters: Find historical and fresh new potato applications

Purple Potato Gnocchi: How to and recipe

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Italian American Classics Reinvented https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/italian-american-classics-reinvented/ Wed, 01 Apr 2020 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/italian-american-classics-reinvented/ Find fresh new ways to makeover two traditional pastas In restaurant kitchens, as in life, sometimes you just need to mix things up. Traditional Italian American pasta dishes like spaghetti and meatballs and fettuccini Alfredo provide a classic foundation to build a great specialty dish. The basics are the same — meat, sauce and pasta […]

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Find fresh new ways to makeover two traditional pastas

In restaurant kitchens, as in life, sometimes you just need to mix things up. Traditional Italian American pasta dishes like spaghetti and meatballs and fettuccini Alfredo provide a classic foundation to build a great specialty dish. The basics are the same — meat, sauce and pasta — but, the execution of each is dramatically different. Let’s take those principles and examine how to change them up to offer menu items that you can work with to create a dish that is uniquely yours.

 

Spaghetti and Meatballs

It’s one of the most beloved pastas served in many pizzerias. Italian Americans in late 1800s used a mix of accessible and affordable ingredients and that classic marinara from the old country. Some might say spaghetti and meatballs is
sacred. But just as pizza has been reinvented and adapted to American regions and palates, so too has spaghetti and meatballs. To breathe new life into this staple doesn’t have to be a big leap. Here are four deviations that give spaghetti and meatballs new gusto:

  • Go baked. It’s an easy switch up to add ricotta, mozzarella and Parmesan and bake it until golden and bubbly. It’s a dish that can be baked ahead and heated to order.
  • Stuff the meatballs. Simply offering cheese-stuffed meatballs can be the update your customers are looking for.
  • Make it spicy. Red pepper flakes, cayenne and cumin can heat up your marinara and meatball mix to just the right level for your spicy food fans.
  • Hit it with a sauté finish. Pour a serving portion of spaghetti in a hot sauté pan of garlic, herbs and olive oil. It gives customers a pop of fresh flavor.
  • Do a mashup. Take two flavors and combine them. Incorporate capers, olives and anchovies to create a Spaghetti Puttanesca and Meatballs.

 

Fettuccini Alfredo

In Rome in the early 1900s, Fettuccini Alfredo was a pasta course. In America, it turned into a main course, most popular with the addition of chicken. A classic Alfredo sauce of Parmesan and butter is heavenly. Later iterations with heavy whipping cream elevated it to divine.

You can keep the sauce traditional and introduce new veggies and proteins. Chicken fettuccini Alfredo becomes deluxe when you add blanched and sautéed asparagus, garlic and crumbled bacon.

Change up the alfredo sauce itself. You can vastly change its flavor by mixing up the cheese. Try a creamy and tangy chicken alfredo by adding goat cheese or bleu cheese and lemon.

Or, you can introduce ingredients you wouldn’t normally pair with fettuccini alfredo. In the Pizza Today Test Kitchen, we tried a few variations of a Nashville Hot Chicken Fettuccini Alfredo. We found that adapting the classic alfredo sauce to include a white cheddar and more cracked black pepper was a great compliment to the hot chicken. We finished it with a spicy aioli drizzle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Denise Greer is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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Meat Combination Pizzas: We Meat Again https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/meat-combination-pizzas-we-meat-again/ Sun, 01 Mar 2020 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/meat-combination-pizzas-we-meat-again/   Meat combination pizzas remain menu mainstays Meat and I have a funny relationship. I once took a butchery course and found it to be incredibly therapeutic. Maybe it was the connection with the animal you’re about to cook, or the focus it takes to make the perfect cut. That being said I don’t eat […]

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lamb sausage, pizza, cumin, oregano, smoked paprika, balsamic

Lamb Sausage Pizza with aged balsamic

 

Meat combination pizzas remain menu mainstays

Meat and I have a funny relationship. I once took a butchery course and found it to be incredibly therapeutic. Maybe it was the connection with the animal you’re about to cook, or the focus it takes to make the perfect cut. That being said I don’t eat a lot of it. The only time I do, is on pizza. Well, pizza and the occasional juicy burger — with pickles of course. As you can probably guess, I’m not much of a supreme pizza girl. I don’t generally like to pile meat on top of meat for the sake of having a ton of it unless each type is truly bringing something to the pie. The closest thing to it at my pizzeria is called the Spicy Pig with sausage, pepperoni, roasted jalapeños and garlic.

You could say I’m somewhat of a purist when it comes to meat on pizza and meat combination pizzas. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m all about flavor … and most meats carry a heavy hit of it. In my opinion, it should be salty, fatty, delicious and celebrated on the pizza instead of just buried in. It is something that I like to highlight; whether that means how it is cooked or what specific farm, shop, region or country it is from. I know a lot of pizzerias that focus on making everything in house, others that are driven from locally sourced ingredients and even more that import most of their ingredients from Italy. All of these are amazing but change the type of menu that you will have and the meat that is offered.

Even something as seemingly simple as pepperoni has multiple dimensions. There is natural casing that curls up and others that lay flat. There is thick pepperoni and paper thin. Some are spicy and others much more mellow. There are commercial brands and more boutique companies. What you choose all depends on what flavor profile you are going for.

Let’s talk about sausage. It is an ingredient that I feel is often taken for granted at pizzerias, yet one that you can really make into a signature item. We make our sausage in house and use it on a variety of different specialty pies. One of them, our Italian Mamma, has sausage, lacianto kale, sauce, caramelized onions and shaved Parmesan. It is so easy to make and a great selling point when you do make it in house. You can vary the flavor profile by shifting just a few simple ingredients around. For example, add honey for some sweetness, hot peppers for heat or choose from tons of different herbs and spices. You can also swap out the type of meat to create specials. A few ideas to play around with include:

  • Lamb sausage with cumin, oregano and smoked paprika. Accompany it on a pie with charred radicchio and an aged balsamic.
  • Chicken sausage with roasted sweet peppers, garlic and basil. Top the pie with spinach and sun-dried tomatoes.
  • Pork sausage with green chilies, roasted garlic and onion powder. Add some caramelized onions, a leaf of rainbow chard and an over easy egg on top with some shaved piave.

Sausage can also be a textural thing depending on how you cook it. I love how sliced links caramelize in the oven and how juicy, freshly pinched sausage taste on a pie. They can be composed of the same ingredients but taste totally different depending on how they are prepared.

I feel that people often get stuck on the standards. They eat what they know. And I’m not telling you to get rid of the classics. ‘Cause, I mean, is there really anything better than a perfect pepperoni slice? But it’s also fun to offer things that go outside the box. That’s what makes independent pizzerias so special. They are a reflection of the owner — who they are, where they’re from and what they love to eat. In addition to the essential (at least at a slice house like mine), don’t be afraid to branch out. Do you have a strong background in barbecue? Do you make the best Porchetta around? Is there a plethora of wild boar in your area? Well, put it on a pizza! I’ve found that customers love to see something unique, as it creates a story.

Our meatballs are one of our most popular menu items. We dish them out as a side, serve them in our homemade rolls as a grinder and also slice them up on pies. I make them as my mom always has, and my grandma used to. It is a family recipe — and now a customer favorite.    

Cured meats are also a staple. They can be used in so many different ways, and how you top the pizza with them might be just as controversial as ranch! Well, maybe not that heated of a topic. But, really. Do you cook them on with the other toppings or use them as a finisher at the end? For me, it depends on the cured meat. Prosciutto should always go on after. Always. Why would you ruin its translucent beauty by drying it out in the oven? Mortadella is another, and one I learned by error. There is a ton of fat that needs to remain intact and contributes to its flavor profile, so it should also be topped after. One of my favorites is Calabrese salami. Big surprise, I know. It’s spicy. I cook it onto the pizza and afterwards top it with Calabrian chilies and shaved Parmesan for our Diavola pie or our house-made Calabrian chili honey and basil for our Hot Disco Honey Pie. The Disco offers up all of those sweet and salty elements that I crave.

Why do you think the Hawaiian is such a popular pizza? The saltiness of the ham and sweet, juiciness of the pineapple appeal to your taste buds. Now, I’m not going to debate the merits of pineapple on pizza here, but I will say that you don’t have to make this exact pizza to create the sensation it causes — especially when it comes to meats. There are endless possibilities. One of my new favorites that I just added to our menu is called the PB & AJ. It’s prosciutto, burrata, arugula and jam. Other great fruit and meat combos are: bacon and apples, peaches and prosciutto, pork sausage and cherries, lamb and pomegranate, and chicken and grapes.

There are so many different ways to prepare and utilize meat as a pizza topping. Don’t get rid of your customers’ favorite classics; but also don’t be afraid to be creative and play around outside of your comfort zone.  

 

Lamb Sausage

Get a Lamb Sausage recipe.

Audrey Kelly is the owner and pizziola at Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, CO.

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Trending Chili Peppers: Chili, Chili, Bang, Bang https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/trending-chili-peppers-chili-chili-bang-bang/ Sun, 01 Mar 2020 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/trending-chili-peppers-chili-chili-bang-bang/ Explore trending sweet and hot chili peppers on pizza “If your eyes do not water, the food is not good.” — Indonesian Proverb   Historians believe that chilies were first domesticated by nomadic people who lived in a group of caves in the mountains of Tamaulipas, Mexico between 7000 and 5000 BC. Besides foraging for […]

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Explore trending sweet and hot chili peppers on pizza

chili pepper varieties, chili peppers, hot chilies
“If your eyes do not water, the food is not good.”
— Indonesian Proverb

 

Historians believe that chilies were first domesticated by nomadic people who lived in a group of caves in the mountains of Tamaulipas, Mexico between 7000 and 5000 BC. Besides foraging for wild beans and agave, they grew chilies, squash and gourd before the advent of corn. The chili was not known outside of Mesoamerica until the arrival of the Spanish Conquistadors. They were amazed to eat at Moctezuma’s court where the nobles served 1000 dishes of food, many featuring peppers. Bernardino di Sahagun, a Spanish friar wrote a partial list of the dishes; “…turkey with the sauce of small chilies, white fish with yellow chili, lobster with red chili, grey fish with red chili, frogs with green chili, newt with yellow chili…” That was before the 2000 jugs of chocolate which were also spiced with chilies. In the early 1600s, there were at least 40 varieties of chilies. In Mexico today there are said to be 92 varieties.

Chilies are now world-renowned for spice and flavor. The rijsttafel of Indonesia, the curries of India and the Paprika Schnitzel of Central Europe all depend upon different chilies.

 

“Cap-say what?”

Capsicum are members of the nightshade family whose other members are potato, tomato and eggplant — all perfect to accompany trending chili peppers. Capsaicin is found in chilies and is a flavorless compound that produces mild to scorching heat and it is hydrophobic, which means it cannot be washed away with water. Capsaicin will bond with fats, which is why drinking milk or heavy cream dressings is the best way to eliminate the heat.

 

Getting Jalapeño Face

Some great pairings for trending chili peppers are garlic, citrus, yogurt, onions, mint, cheese, wine, stone fruit and aromatic spices. Other foods to incorporate with chilies to create an interesting flavor profile are strawberry, date, maple syrup, coconut, banana, beef, chicken, pork, turkey, squid, oyster, carrot, soy sauce, miso, artichoke, pumpkin, parsnip, fennel, dill, cilantro, pomegranate, papaya, mustard, cumin, curry, clams, vinegar, beet and corn.

 

Cayenne I Get a Break?

For most pizzeria owners, green peppers are a bit player but a topping that cannot be discontinued. Green peppers add that zingy crunch to fatty meats like pepperoni and sausage and the addition of onion and tomato elevate this flavor profile to a
“supreme” level. Here are three other pickled peppers that are delicious on pizza.

  • Calabrian Chilies: This small heat is perfect because of its vinegar cure. Eat the stem please.
  • Sweet Piquanté Peppers: More sweet than hot, this expensive addition to any pizza is both colorfully pleasing and puts the “dolce” in Agra-dolce, (sour and sweet.)
  • Sweety Drop Peppers: These shockingly bright Peruvian peppers, also known as Incan red drops, are both sweet and sour. Just a few of these teardrop-shaped nuggets on a pizza produce little explosions of flavor.

 

Sweet Chili of Mine

Here are a few sweet peppers that are trending and in the height of summer and fall, local farmers grow these in abundance:

  • Sweet Italian Reds: This hand-sized, thin-walled beauty is perfect for roasting. When blistered, quickly dump them all into a large lexan to steam. These are beautiful on pizzas and also can be made into a Spanish-style sauce using old breadcrumbs or nuts.
  • Shishito Peppers: This smallish pepper (two to four inches) called the Lion Head Pepper by the Japanese exhibits a tremendous amount of savory pepperiness coupled with nuanced sweetness. I love to stuff these with grits or polenta. Lately, they are trendy in many restaurants charred and plated as appetizers.
  • Corno di Toro Peppers: This trendy Italian pepper can either be red or vivid yellow and translates to “horn of the bull.” These are thicker-walled than the Italian sweet and have a sweet and crisp, full bodied flavor. Stuff the yellow Toros with Italian sausage or roasted strips on a pizza with Prosciutto di Parma is wonderful.
  • Pimiento Pepper: (Some folks still spell it pimento.) This is my favorite because of its thick walls, and it is sweeter and more aromatic than red bell peppers. This has traditionally been used in pimento cheese and as the red stuffing in green cocktail olives. Pimientos are tasty stuffed with cheese after a quick par-roast to loosen the flesh. My customers love these stuffed with chorizo and Manchego cheese.

 

Hot Time in the City

Here is a list of hot peppers from the top of the flame on down.

Carolina Reaper, 2,000,000 Scoville units 
This pepper is surprisingly sweet and fruity before the latent burn really kicks in. The heat reaches your throat first then expands to…everywhere. I love this for our hot pizza called “The Beelzebub” and hot pizza fanatics like it also with bacon and gruyere, manchego with sausage or just cheddar.

Trinadad Scorpion, 1.150,000 Scoville units
This pepper has the same tell-tale-tail that the Reaper has but is more squat-shaped. It is also fruity with hints of flowers and tobacco before the heat crushes your face. I like to make “Cruel-tons” by slicing the old bread, grinding up Scorpions with garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, Italian seasoning and baking them before tossing them with grated Parmigiano Reggiano.

Ghost Pepper, 1,463,000 Scoville units
The fruitiness of this pepper is very intense because the burn takes so long to hit. “Ghosties” are great pureed into a kimchi pickling liquid and into pizza sauce but all it takes is one in a quart of sauce to feel the burn.

Scotch Bonnet Habanero, 100,000 Scoville units
These two peppers are cousins with small profile and waxy touch. Scotch bonnets are from Jamaica and sweet but hotter than the “Habbies”.  They are a perfect pair with tropical fruits. The habanero has sweet flavor like the Fatalli, with a pungent pineapple and floral flavor. Both are great with chicken and fish.

Thai Hot Chilies, 100,000 Scoville units
There are over 70 different varieties of chilies in Thailand, but most refer to this Thai chili as the “Birdseye.” Perfect for an Asian sweet-hot sauce or with fermented sauces like sriracha or in fruity-hot marinades.

Cayenne Chilies, 50,000 Scoville units
More used for the “zing” this spice gives when this chili is dried and powdered, cayenne is used all over the world for its hot, pungent and earthiness and is easy to measure for recipes. It is usually not an ingredient in chili powder or paprika.

Chili di Arbol, 30,000 Scoville units
I use this dried chili to make our famous “Brisket Ahogada” after the famous cuminy-hot Guadalajaran sandwich which features bread and pork and is dunked fully before serving.

Serrano, 15,000 Scoville units
These little gems are more grassy and hotter than the jalepeño. I love to roast them to produce small, smoky and hot filets to a pizza or pasta. (See Serrano Peach Pizza recipe.)

Jalapeño, 2000 to 2500 Scoville units
This wonderful chili can wonder up the heat scale depending upon the year and climate. Jalapeño salsa is particularly nice to fold into pasta and stuffed Jalapeños with creamed cheese and bacon is to die for. The smoked version of this chili is called Chipotle and has a more intense chocolate/tobacco flavor found in sauces.

Poblano, Ancho 1500 to 1000 Scoville units
These are the perfect stuffing peppers to appease a broad range of customer. The Poblano is prized for its size as a stuffer and dried is called the Ancho, which tastes bittersweet and raison-rich which is perfect for stews.

Serrano, peach, pizza, bacon

Serrano Peach Pizza with Bacon

Serrano Peach Pizza with Bacon

I have a love affair with peach and chili combinations. The small serrano filets, roasted to boost the heat and charred flavor, are a perfect foil to the fatty and salty bacon and the sweet peach and maple syrup.

Get the Serrano Peach Pizza with Bacon recipe.

 

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

 

 

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‘Nduja Pizza: Covering the Spread https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/nduja-pizza-covering-the-spread/ Sun, 01 Mar 2020 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/nduja-pizza-covering-the-spread/ ‘Nduja brings something different to the table The first time I had ‘Nduja, I was hesitant but curious. I was visiting a tiny independent pizzeria in the mountains of northern Arizona and spotted the kitchen staff working with the spicy, spreadable salumi. The seasoned pork had a strange color, but an appealing texture and flavor. […]

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‘Nduja brings something different to the table

The first time I had ‘Nduja, I was hesitant but curious. I was visiting a tiny independent pizzeria in the mountains of northern Arizona and spotted the kitchen staff working with the spicy, spreadable salumi. The seasoned pork had a strange color, but an appealing texture and flavor. It was being used on a toasted, crusty bread as an appetizer that was part of a larger platter with various olives, cheeses and cured meats. It was new to me and I was intrigued, if not smitten.

Several years later ‘Nduja enjoyed a boost in popularity in some big-city heavy hitter restaurants. As I noticed more and more foodies getting turned on to the meat spread they couldn’t pronounce, I chuckled as I recalled how ahead of the curve this pizzeria happened to be simply by hearkening back to something old.

In the interim, other pizzerias began picking up on the trend. While it isn’t an item you find in a large percentage of American pizzerias, its usage and popularity are growing. I see ‘Nduja on menus from San Francisco to New York, with plenty of stops in between. And while I tend to come across it in a starter form a lot, it certainly can bring depth to a pizza menu.

As a lover of Calabrian peppers, it’s no wonder I’m drawn to ‘Nduja. The spread, which originated in the Calabria region, is at its best thanks to the spice imparted by the chilies. It’s simple enough to make the product yourself if you want to invest the time. Otherwise, just source one you really like and move on. You aren’t going to purchase in large quantities here: this is a specialty ingredient that you’ll most likely use on a limited time dish.

We recently had the opportunity to play around with ‘Nduja in the Pizza Today test kitchen as we prepared for the issue of the magazine you’re now holding in your hands. We tried it several different ways, but quickly discovered — big shock — that we liked it best on pizza! Give this one a try in your kitchen and see how it goes. It just might make for a fun specialty pizza that gives your staff and customer base a slight break from the norm.

 

‘Nduja Pizza

Get the ‘Nduja Pizza recipe.

Jeremy White is Editor-in-Chief at Pizza Today.

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Man on the Street: “Sauce On Top” https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-sauce-on-top/ Sat, 01 Feb 2020 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/man-on-the-street-sauce-on-top/ The world’s highest rated pizzeria is doing it all wrong. Literally. The flagship pie at Pepe in Grani, located just 30 km north of Naples, is called the Margherita ha Sbagliata, which means “Margherita Made Wrong.” Among the pizza’s multiple abuses, perhaps the most egregious is its application of tomato on top of the cheese. […]

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upside down pizza, recipe, tony gemignani,

The world’s highest rated pizzeria is doing it all wrong. Literally. The flagship pie at Pepe in Grani, located just 30 km north of Naples, is called the Margherita ha Sbagliata, which means “Margherita Made Wrong.” Among the pizza’s multiple abuses, perhaps the most egregious is its application of tomato on top of the cheese. Most of humanity expects pizza to follow a reliable pattern: dough as a base, covered with tomato sauce, then topped with cheese and various accouterments. By swapping strata, the Margherita ha Sbagliata has caused quite an upheaval in the Italian pizza community. Meanwhile across the Atlantic, American pizzerias have seen the trend of sauce atop cheese simmering for decades.

Scott Wiener Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Scott Wiener
Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Papa’s and Delorenzo’s of Robbinsville, New Jersey (both formerly located in Trenton) have been applying coarsely crushed tomato to the tops of their pizzas since at least the 1950s. They even see it as a defining characteristic, going so far as to refer to their pizzas as tomato pie. In the pizza stronghold of New York City, some of the oldest and most popular pizzerias have been layering in reverse since the 1920s. You’ll find the technique at John’s Pizzeria on Bleecker Street, Totonno’s on Coney Island, Arturo’s on Houston Street, and both Grimaldi’s and Juliana’s in Brooklyn’s DUMBO neighborhood. There’s even a 1956 New York Times Magazine article in which George Lombardi, of Lombardi’s Pizzeria, describes assembling his pizza cheese-first because, “it melts right that way.”

All the pizzerias I’ve referenced thus far produce round Neapolitan-inspired pizzas, but the most influential saucy pie of all time is the Sicilian pizza from L&B Spumoni Gardens. Since the early 1950s, L&B has been serving thick, square pizzas covered with crushed tomato and pecorino cheese. Whenever you see a Sicilian pizza with sauce on top of cheese, it’s a good bet L&B was the inspiration. Just take a look at the hyper-Instagrammed squares at Prince Street Pizza in Manhattan, the sesame-seeded Freddy Prince at Paulie Gee’s Slice Shop in Brooklyn, and the luxurious five-day fermented Sicilian at Metro Pizza in Las Vegas (it’s even called the 86th Street, the location of L&B). Speaking of squares, let’s not forget two of the biggest pizza style trends of the moment: Grandma and Detroit style. I genuinely believe that the exotic sauce-on-top look has boosted their popularity.

Applying sauce above cheese has some clear benefits. By using the cheese as a barrier between sauce and dough, you can prevent excess moisture from slowing the bake. Tomato also prevents dry cheese from burning. Think about how Chicago deep-dish pizza is topped by a thick layer of crushed tomato, without which the 40-minute bake might leave unprotected mozzarella charred beyond recognition. I think it’s possible that America’s early Neapolitan immigrants may have made the switch to troubleshoot the dry heat and lower flame of coal-fired ovens.

Beyond any practical justification, I also think that pizzas with visible sauce just look nicer. Overly cheesed pizzas carry the connotation of junk food to me whereas pies with upfront sauce look classy. What’s even better is the fact that tomato is much less expensive ingredient to feature, so pushing it to the forefront can even help your bottom line.

If you serve a pizza with sauce on top, post a picture to social media with #sauceontop and tell us why!

Scott Wiener is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org.

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Knead to Know: Dough Tips from a Top Competitor https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/knead-to-know-dough-tips-from-a-top-competitor/ Sat, 01 Feb 2020 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/knead-to-know-dough-tips-from-a-top-competitor/ Leah Scurto blends art, science in dough making The competitive pizza scene has proven to be a launch pad for some of today’s most successful pizzerias. In addition, competition has become a laboratory for innovation and a great way to stay on top of up and coming trends and innovations. Even if you have no […]

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leah scurto, pizza maker

Leah Scurto blends art, science in dough making

The competitive pizza scene has proven to be a launch pad for some of today’s most successful pizzerias. In addition, competition has become a laboratory for innovation and a great way to stay on top of up and coming trends and innovations. Even if you have no intention of entering a contest, there is a lot that can be learned from the pizzaioli who are consistent winners on the competitive stage.

While there are now thousands of competition level pizza makers it’s clear that a handful truly stand out and are consistently called to the champions podium. Even if you are just a casual observer there is a good chance you’ve run into Leah Scurto, one of America’s leading pizza makers.

Leah has been honing her craft for over 22 years. Raised in a restaurant family, she began her pizza career slinging slices at the popular regional chain Pizza My Heart in Santa Cruz, California. She recently moved on to develop her own concept, PizzaLeah (opening soon in Windsor, California). Leah credits her first pizza employer, Chuck Hammers, as a major influence — along with her former Pizza My Heart colleague Lars Smith and her mentor, Tim Silva.

Her new pizzeria will focus on local ingredients and spotlight a plethora of artisan farmers, cheese makers, brewers, wine makers and butchers. Her dedication to craft, backed by years of experience and a masterful command of the dough making process, promise that her new restaurant will become a pizza mecca in Sonoma County.

So how does this happy pizza warrior use her competition experience to develop world class pizza dough? Leah starts her creative process by first forming a very specific vision of what the finished product should be. Once that is defined, experience and knowledge are applied to get the desired result. She will select a flour type or blend and choose a hydration level. Understanding how each variable — including ingredients, methods and technique — effect the completed dough is critical. She begins by using a formula she is familiar with and then starts tweaking to fine tune by modifying with pre-ferments and a variety of mixing methods. From there it becomes a matter of constant calculated experimentation. The process is particularly time consuming because in order to understand the cause of different results the pizza maker must discipline themselves to only change one variable at a time. Her rosemary-infused pan pizza dough took several months to develop and resulted in a second place finish at Pizza Expo.

Although dough making is an art, it is first and foremost a science — so the basic rules of scientific research should always be applied. Leah advises that strict control of time and temperature are crucial to creating consistent high quality pizza dough. As she states “time and temperature can be your best friend or your worst enemy”. This is especially true when competing, where conditions are often unfamiliar and less than ideal.  One of the many benefits of this type of experience is that it prepares you to adjust to unavoidable challenges that will occur in the day to day operation of your pizzeria.

Leah describes her ideal dough by starting with particular tactile qualities. “It should be silky, airy and soft, but strong. It should be well fermented and have a scent that is buttery and more sweet than sour”. She strives for a “nice crunch that gives way to a nice chewy center. Balance is key.”

Leah began her career as a rare woman in the male-dominated world of NY-style pizza making. She has had to win over her share of skeptics, so it is no wonder that she is a bit of a rebel when it comes to tradition. However, she is emphatic that you must begin with fundamental skills before stepping out of the box and experimenting. Above all else Leah is a big advocate of collaboration in our industry and cites camaraderie and a sense of community as her primary reason for participating in pizza-making competitions. As she notes, “If you listen you’ll most likely learn a thing or two.” One of the things she’s learned is that “to have a great product you must start with the highest quality ingredients.” To this end she uses only filtered water, unbleached and unbromated flour and high-quality extra virgin olive oil.

Leah shared her base dough, which she uses as a starting point for her variations.

100% High Gluten Flour

63% Filtered Water

0.8% Fresh Yeast

2.5% Kosher Salt

1.75%  EVOO

Put water in mixing bowl and dissolve yeast. Add flour and mix on speed 1 for 4 minutes. Cover dough and allow it to rest for 20 minutes. Sprinkle in salt and mix for 3 minutes on speed 1. With mixer continuing to run slowly add oil over the course of 4 minutes. Finish mixing for an additional 2 minutes until all ingredients are incorporated. Bench rest for 30 minutes and then bulk ferment dough for 24 to 48 hours. Remove the dough from the cooler and let it warm to 55 degrees F. Divide and round dough and place dough back in the cooler for 18 to 30 hours. Bring dough back to room temperature before using.

John Arena co-owns Metro Pizza in Las Vegas.

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Italian Sandwiches: Built with Care https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/italian-sandwiches-built-with-care/ Sat, 01 Feb 2020 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/italian-sandwiches-built-with-care/ A good sandwich is tough to top — even in pizzerias If you’re looking to attract a lunch crowd and don’t offer pizza by the slice, sandwiches just might be your ticket to incremental sales increases. Much like a newly opened pizza dough, two pieces of bread constitute a blank canvas awaiting your creativity. Sandwiches […]

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A good sandwich is tough to top — even in pizzerias

If you’re looking to attract a lunch crowd and don’t offer pizza by the slice, sandwiches just might be your ticket to incremental sales increases. Much like a newly opened pizza dough, two pieces of bread constitute a blank canvas awaiting your creativity.

Sandwiches are a daily staple in American life. From a blue-collar, brown-bag lunch favorite to trendy bistro fare, the item has universal appeal. Start with a high-quality bread — be it sourdough, ciabatta or a multi-grain boule — slice it thickly and get to work. The sky is literally the limit. You are only restrained by the confines of your imagination.

I had an exceptionally remarkable chicken parm panini in Parma, Italy, a couple of years ago. It came from a nondescript street vendor. It was working man’s fare at a working man’s price … and better than any sandwich I’d had in long, long time.

For this month’s cover, Creative Director Josh Keown hit the PT test kitchen with a variety of breads, cured meats, vegetables, cheeses and condiments. While I worked on pizzas, Executive Editor Denise Greer worked on a seafood dish and Art Director Katie Wilson worked on pastas, Josh was assembling the beauties that make our February issue façade pop.

The beauty of sandwiches lay in their simplicity. This isn’t high execution here. You can quickly train even less-than-astute employees to put together a good sandwich quickly.

It’s a menu item that evokes convenience, isn’t labor-intensive and carries a high profit margin. What’s not to love?

If you’re looking to impress an Italian focus on your menu, you’re going to stay away from turkey and ham and bacon and mayonnaise, and instead offer sandwiches stacked with salami, prosciutto, soppressata, etc. when it comes to cold cuts. Another popular option — vegetarian, at that — would be a Caprese sandwich complete with fresh mozzarella, sliced tomato, basil, olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Then there’s the aforementioned Chicken Parm sandwich, served piping hot with plenty of tomato sauce and melted mozzarella cheese.

The point here is merely to make use of the ingredients you already have on hand (you may need to either bring in some artisan bread or make your own if you’re up for that rewarding adventure) to add to your menu and attract the lunch crowd that needs to be in and out in a hurry. While sandwiches need not be complex, they can still be plenty vibrant, delicious, filling and profitable!

Here’s a recipe to try that is a vegetarian twist on the delicious sandwich I had in Parma:

 

Eggplant Parm Sandwich

Get the Eggplant Parm Sandwich recipe.

 

Jeremy White is Editor-in-Chief at Pizza Today.

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Vegetables on Pizza: V-edgy https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/vegetables-on-pizza-v-edgy/ Sat, 01 Feb 2020 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/vegetables-on-pizza-v-edgy/ Take vegetable toppings to rockstar status Over the years of being in the pizza business I’ve realized that there are three types of people: there are pizza people, people who think they are pizza people and others. You can tell right away what category someone falls in by what they comment on about the pizza […]

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Take vegetable toppings to rockstar status

Over the years of being in the pizza business I’ve realized that there are three types of people: there are pizza people, people who think they are pizza people and others. You can tell right away what category someone falls in by what they comment on about the pizza first. In my experience, pizza people go straight for the crust.  It is the first thing they notice and what they are most interested in learning about. What kind of flour? How long is the fermentation? What is the hydration? The people who fall into the Other category, instead see the crust simply as a vehicle for the toppings. I hear it daily in my slice shop and read it in reviews all of the time.  It is my job, as the menu developer and pizzaiola, to make both camps happy. This means making the most cohesive pizza I can. Something that I enjoy immensely as I am not only a complete dough geek, I am also a cook. Since the other category makes up a pretty big percentage, let’s talk about toppings, namely vegetable toppings. As for the people who think they are pizza people, well that is a topic for a whole other conversation.

Creating the perfect pizza is all about balance — not only with flavors, but textures as well. Vegetables are one of my favorite ingredients to achieve both. They can change drastically simply by how you cook, pair and use them. My menu has vegetables that are roasted, raw, blended and pickled. When I’m creating a new pizza, I look at the whole pie. Basically, how is it going to play out in your mouth? I want each bite to have elements of chewy, crunchy and creamy textures. As far as flavors, I am always looking for a balance. Cutting super fatty or earthy flavors with a hit of acid; or a big punch of garlic with a handful of saltiness.

I use vegetables in different ways on every pie depending on what I’m trying to achieve. For example, on some pizzas I cook the olives so that they become softer and blend in more with the other ingredients; and on others I put them on raw to deliver a bit more crunch on the finish. Onions are a vegetable that change drastically depending on how they are prepared.  Raw, they offer a big bite and spiciness that is great for cutting through meats and other heartier veggies. Caramelized, they break down and offer up a sweet creaminess.   

With only one electric oven at my pizzeria, we are forced to be a little more creative on how we cook things. This means a lot of roasted veggies, which I love because they carry some of the deepest flavors. One of our best sellers is our version of an eggplant Parmesan. We make it into pizza and sandwich form. Since we don’t have the capacity to pan-fry or deep fry the eggplant, we thinly slice and roast it. It is layered with sauce and ricotta, then topped with fresh basil and shaved Parmesan. We also roast Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, sweet onions, and other seasonal veggies, such as butternut squash and asparagus. Being a small place, I always try to multi-utilize every ingredient.

In my opinion, one of the best ingredients, vegetarian or meat, are chilies. Yes, chilies. I was once asked in an interview why so many of my pies featured peppers. Well, because they’re freakin’ awesome! Yes, I might have a slight addiction to spiciness but there are so many different types of chilies ranging in levels of heat. Also, how you prepare and pair them changes the flavor and hotness. Our most popular pizza is probably the Spicy Pig. It has sausage, natural casing pepperoni, garlic, and most importantly roasted jalapeños. Do we roast them in house? You bet we do. Not only is it super simple to do, but the difference in flavor is a game changer. Others that we use in multiple forms are Calabrian chilies. We blend them with honey, make hot oil, crush to put straight on pies and mix in with our homemade sausage. Of course, there are also bell peppers, which can be put on the pizza raw, roasted to bring out the sweetness or pickled for added crunch and acidity.

vegetable quick picklingLet’s talk about pickled veggies. To me, they are something that a lot of people overlook, yet happen to be one of my favorite ingredients. It can turn any dish that is a bit lackluster, into a flavor bomb. You could say I’m a bit of a pickle junkie. Making tacos? Top them with some pickled onions and cauliflower. Italian sandwich? Oh, there better be some giardinara on it. Need to jazz up that pepperoni pie? Did you add pickled jalapeños? You can also change the flavor to create exactly what you’re trying to achieve simply by adding different ingredients to the brine. Use fresh herbs, spices and different allium (leeks, onions, scallion, garlic, etc). You can also adjust the vinegar ratio if you don’t want it to be so acidic. What’s the best way to balance all of the acid? A nice hit of fat. Which brings us to frying.

Deep frying is also an excellent way to transform veggies, perfect for a finishing touch. One of my favorites is fried leeks. Not only do they look and smell amazing, they add a whole new dimension to the pizza without being overwhelming. Lemons, which I know are not technically a vegetable, are beautiful when flash fried.   

There are so many fun ways to use vegetables as toppings besides accompanying meat on a supreme pizza. Here are a few different pies to play around with that encompass multiple textures and techniques. Feel free to substitute the veggies for ones you have on hand or have a hankering to try.

  • Roasted delicata squash and broccolini, mozzarella and finished with burrata, toasted pumpkin seeds and fresh basil.
  • Pepperoni, sauce, mozzarella, pickled cauliflower and jalapeños.
  • Raw spinach, mushrooms, caramelized onions, pesto and sweet piquanté peppers.

Pickling can be a little intimidating at first, but it is actually one of the simplest things to do. If you’re going to use the pickles right away and refrigerate them, you don’t even have to can them. Here is a recipe to use as a baseline (you can add different ingredients to vary the flavor profile).

 

Quick Pickling Recipe

Makes: 2 pint jars

Get the Vegetable Quick Pickling Recipe.

Audrey Kelly is the owner and pizzaiola at Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, CO.

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Drop A Fresh Beet https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/drop-a-fresh-beet/ Sat, 01 Feb 2020 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/drop-a-fresh-beet/ Move over salads, beets have hit the pizza menu I’ll never forget the pizzeria that went all-in on beets with its CSA Pizza. Galactic Pizza in Minneapolis, Minnesota featured a beet puree-based pizza that was so vibrantly colorful and unique that it popped out from four other pizzas on the table. Did I mention it […]

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Move over salads, beets have hit the pizza menu

I’ll never forget the pizzeria that went all-in on beets with its CSA Pizza. Galactic Pizza in Minneapolis, Minnesota featured a beet puree-based pizza that was so vibrantly colorful and unique that it popped out from four other pizzas on the table. Did I mention it was delicious? It was. The pizza was topped with roasted carrots, red onion, goat cheese, dill, honey and extra-virgin olive oil.

Before that visit a few years ago, I had only noticed beets sprinkled onto salad menus. Lately, beets have caught on and have crossed over to the pizza menu, thanks to adventurous diners and curious pizza makers looking for innovative ways to showcase this earthy vegetable.

Beets (also known as beetroot) are cultivated varieties of Beta Vularis. Roots and greens are edible and loaded with nutrients. There are dozens of varieties, but let’s hit on a few that you may come across in your area. There are the common garden beets (also called table beets or beetroot). One of the most recognized of the reds are the Detroit Dark Reds, deep in color and sweet in flavor. If you are looking for pop, try chioggia (which have a distinctive red- and white-striped interior). These “candy cane” beets are a sweet Italian variety and very popular among chefs — as are golden and white beets.

If your specialty, vegetarian or vegan game is strong, it’s time to experiment with beets in your kitchen.

The first order of business is fresh beet prep. If you’re not careful, your prep line will look like something from a crime scene. Beet juice stains. In fact, it does such a proficient job at it that beets are used in food coloring and dyes. Protect your hands and surfaces. Of course, you can avoid the mess altogether by choosing the white or gold varieties, like sugar or golden beets. But then you will miss out on the presentation of those bold and vivid deep red beets.

Beets can be incorporated cooked or uncooked. If using uncooked beets, they will have a more pronounced earthy and bitter flavor so you’ll need to balance that. The benefit is that they will have a nice crunch if that is your intention. One of the best methods to use raw beets is pickling, which will allow you to enhance the flavor profile and create a beautiful finishing ingredient. When incorporating pickled beets, expect some pink juice to leach out onto nearby ingredients.    

There are several dynamite cooking methods for beets, depending on your application. Slow or fast roasting is one of the best ways to keep the color of beets, while losing the liquid. One of the not-so-secret best ways to add flavor to beets is to marinate them before roasting. Vinegars, juices, herbs and spices can really elevate the beet as a pizza topping. Try honey, apple cider vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper. You can roast the whole beet then peel and slice it, or vise versa. Roast beets with olive oil, salt, pepper and herbs, like thyme, marjoram, rosemary, oregano, fennel or basil.

You can even slice beets super thin and season with garlic powder, ground fennel seed, chili, olive oil, apple cider vinegar and liquid smoke and fast roast to create a beet “pepperoni.” Thinly sliced beets can also be turned into beet chips. Tip: Use different color varieties to make the chips really shine.

Other cooking methods to experiment with are steaming, boiling and frying. Play with the methods to see which works better for your beet pizza.

Sweet Beets Pizza

Since the flavor profile of beets is sweet, earthy and a bit bitter, you’ll need bright and fresh ingredients. Goat cheese is often one of the first ingredients that is paired with beets. It’s a classic pairing, so let’s look at a few combinations to use on your menu.

On the starters lineup, a beet, crushed walnut, goat cheese and hot honey crostini provides a fresh and sweet alternative to bruschetta.

Here are some ideas for white pizzas:

  • Caramelized beets and onion with goat cheese
  • Micro greens, feta, pickled beets and sliced beefsteak tomatoes
  • Roasted beets and carrots with kale, fresh mozzarella and a balsamic drizzle

You can even make a pesto using beets. You will have to run a few trials applying the pesto in various ways. You can use it as a base, but the pesto may present better as dollops on a white cheese pizza finished with arugula, shaved Parmesan and a balsamic drizzle.

If you want to go even further with culinary beet creations, try developing a beet veggie burger. Or, this month is Valentine’s Day — beet-infused dough turns this holiday pink.

 

Sweet Beet Pizza

Get the Sweet Beet Pizza recipe, along with herb-roasted beets recipe.

Denise Greer is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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Man on the Street: “Livin’ On the Edge” https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-livin-on-the-edge/ Tue, 31 Dec 2019 14:51:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/man-on-the-street-livin-on-the-edge/ If you’re paying any attention at all, you know that the best pizza makers spend their time chasing the perfect crust. Funky topping combinations might get the Internet’s attention, but they’re not winning anybody a James Beard award. Pizza makers used to flaunt their skills by concocting confounding combinations, but now it’s becoming all about […]

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If you’re paying any attention at all, you know that the best pizza makers spend their time chasing the perfect crust. Funky topping combinations might get the Internet’s attention, but they’re not winning anybody a James Beard award. Pizza makers used to flaunt their skills by concocting confounding combinations, but now it’s becoming all about that base. The problem is that the fruits of fermentation are essentially invisible to the common customer, who doesn’t see past the mounds of mozzarella and piles of pepperoni. But that’s all starting to change as pizza makers flaunt their dough development by beefing up their pizzas’ borders.

Scott Wiener Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Scott Wiener
Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

In Naples they call it cannoto, which means “life raft.” If that doesn’t paint a picture of the extra-puffy crust I don’t know what will. The outer rim is even more dramatic than a standard Neapolitan pizza, with a cavernous crumb structure that makes perfect fodder for the nerdiest pizza and bread geeks on social media. A pizzaiolo achieves this affect by a combination of extreme hydration and controlled dough extension. More carbon dioxide is left in the dough’s edge than usual, so the initial moments of oven spring provide a huge inflation – just like a life raft.

The cannoto style is being ushered by Napoli’s young generation of pizzaioli, who aren’t afraid to (literally) push the world’s most sacred pizza tradition. Forging a ballooned crust is a way to show off one’s elevated skill, but sometimes looks can be deceiving. I recently had the opportunity to try the cannoto in Naples and found quite a disparity in the results. Some exhibited the plush openness I expected but others were severely undercooked. While the edge always delivered its promised pop, the area directly under the sauce often remained uncooked. This wasn’t just a gum line; it was a goo line. Herein lies the danger of baking high hydration dough in a super-hot oven.

American pizza makers are also getting into exaggerated crusts, but with the opposite result. Pizzeria Mozza should be heralded as a pioneer in the style, having introduced it on opening day back in 2007. When I first visited Pizzeria Mozza about a decade ago, the incongruous proportion of crust surprised me. Now that I understand Mozza’s pizza as the descendant of founder Nancy Silverton’s bread empire, but I completely understand customers feeling cynical about a pizza whose edge encroaches on its toppings. Unlike the pies in Naples and at Mozza, large format pizzas like those found at Brooklyn’s Lucali and Mama’s Too in Manhattan can deliver the same thickness of edge crust without entirely invading the pizza’s central real estate.

Since American pizza styles tend to have longer bake times in lower temperature ovens, they have the opposite problem of their Neapolitan counterparts. Oversized un-topped borders can dry out, especially when the dough is handled aggressively. This makes for crusts that snap when folded and get left behind on the plate. Once again, the enticing visual appeal of a monster crust comes with some serious caveats.

While pizza makers compete for the corniccione crown, it’s important to remember the pitfalls of doing so. While a valiant attempt to highlight the often-overlooked importance of well-made dough stretched into a perfect skin, emphasizing a pizza’s border has the potential to result in a pie whose success is overshadowed by the pizza maker’s desire to flex.

Scott Wiener is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org.

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Ricotta: So Cool https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/ricotta-so-cool/ Mon, 30 Dec 2019 18:44:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/ricotta-so-cool/ Ricotta gives your pizza a new texture and charm Ricotta is a versatile ingredient that every pizza kitchen needs to utilize. The cheese brings a coolness and creaminess to pies and plays well with so many topping combinations. Its slightly granular texture makes for a unique mouthfeel. It’s also an excellent choice in some pasta […]

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Ricotta gives your pizza a new texture and charm

Ricotta is a versatile ingredient that every pizza kitchen needs to utilize. The cheese brings a coolness and creaminess to pies and plays well with so many topping combinations. Its slightly granular texture makes for a unique mouthfeel. It’s also an excellent choice in some pasta dishes.

Truth be told, it’s easy to make ricotta yourself if you’re looking to really up your culinary game. If you don’t want to invest the time and manpower into that, however, there are many great options on the market. The cheese is inherently “bland,” which means you’re using it to provide texture and to bring out flavors from other ingredients as opposed to expecting it to be the star of the show.

Typically speaking, I personally prefer to work with a flavorful cheese such as, say, Gorgonzola, when developing recipes. But ricotta is just so darn capable in too many capacities that it can’t be overlooked. And it’s a dream with tomato sauce.

One of my favorite summertime appetizers at home is a slice of grilled sourdough bread topped with a bit of olive oil, salt, homegrown cherry tomatoes and dollops of ricotta. I finish it with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. It’s super simple, yet the flavor and textures are tough to beat.

You could easily menu this — call it bruschetta — with your choice of toasted bread. Sometimes I sub the ricotta out with goat cheese to coax out a tangy flavor profile. But you get the point!

When it comes to pizza, red sauce is the way to go when using ricotta, in my opinion. That red-white combo makes a powerful pair! As previously mentioned, the cheese will bring a coolness to the pie. So, I like to partner it with toppings that carry some spice. See, the cheese isn’t just for old-school cheesecake!

Here are a couple of recipes your customers might find interesting. As always, I encourage you to utilize these as a jumping-off point for your own experimentation.

 

Salami & Jalapeño

Get the Salami & Jalapeño Pizza recipe.

Sausage & Mushroom

Get the Sausage & Mushroom Pizza recipe.

One of the more natural ricotta uses would be as a calzone or ravioli filling. As you can see, there’s really no limit to the versatility here. For more recipes that utilize ricotta, click on the search icon at the top and type in ‘ricotta.’

Jeremy White is Editor-in-Chief at Pizza Today.

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Cauliflower Dreaming https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/cauliflower-dreaming/ Mon, 30 Dec 2019 17:56:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/cauliflower-dreaming/ Cauliflower comes from a large family of many different colors and shapes that grows in tropical and temperate climates around the world. Until lately, the last place you would find cauliflower is in a pizzeria, but with customers new non-gluten/keto mindset, it may be time for another look. Vegan and vegetarian diets are big these […]

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Puglian Cauliflower Pasta

Puglian Cauliflower Pasta

Cauliflower comes from a large family of many different colors and shapes that grows in tropical and temperate climates around the world. Until lately, the last place you would find cauliflower is in a pizzeria, but with customers new non-gluten/keto mindset, it may be time for another look. Vegan and vegetarian diets are big these days and I’ve noticed that most families have at least one or two food-conscious individuals in them. Harnessing the power of cauliflower can accommodate these customers and capture that lucrative niche that corporations are too slow to take advantage of.

Apicius, who lived in the 1st century AD was an avid fan of cauliflower and his recipe of boiled cauliflower, cumin, leeks and fish sauce vinaigrette is still made today. In Sicily, there are so many varieties that even the terminology is complex. Local variations are broccolo, vruocculo, vruoccolo pieno or even the plural for broccoli which means “hard flower.” Some of these southern recipes are outstanding, like Cavolfiore alla Siciliana, which pairs cauliflower with raisins and anchovy and the Sardinian Cavolfiore alle Olive paired with green olives, dried tomato, onion, garlic and broth.

Cauliflower is high in fiber, low in calories and a cup of florets contain
100 percent of the recommended daily allowance for vitamin C. It also contains B6, potassium, vitamin A and folate. In order to retain these important nutrients you need to cook cauliflower. Some super-tasters attest that the more you cut cauliflower, the more sulfurous it tastes so pureed in soup can cause some unwanted smells. To alleviate this, many chefs cook cauliflower with cream or potato.

 

Big Head Cod and the Monsters

A giant head of cauliflower can be manipulated in many ways and is relatively easy to pair with other foods in the restaurant environment. It is usually not considered a “star of the plate”, but a lot of successful celebrity chefs are tweaking historic and regional pairings to create some innovative, (and, some may say, monstrous) cuisine using cauliflower. Here are a few:

  • Bacalao con Coliflor, (Spanish Cod with Cauliflower,) fried salt-cod and cauliflower, garlic, Spanish paprika.
  • Carpaccio of Cauliflower with cauliflower risotto and chocolate jelly with cauliflower velouté, cream as well as dried.
  • Roasted whole cauliflower sliced down the middle and placed in the juice of broccoli and topped with broccoli puree.
  • Dover Sole Ballotine A’ La Polonaise with cauliflower puree, caper-almond gremolata, potato tempura and glazed Romanesco.
  • Maccheroni Con Cavolfiore, (Conchiglie Shells with cauliflower sauce) with raisins, anchovies, Pecorino and tomato.
  • Indian Aloo Gobi Soup, with onion, ginger, chili, turmeric, coriander, cumin and potato.
  • Cauliflower and Almond Crème Caramel topped with whipped almond cream.

 

“Flooret Harold!”

Cauliflower may be a hard sell for some customers and kids, but numerous adventurous restaurateurs and chefs have morphed this vegetable into some delicious and readily recognizable dishes. Here are some other uses for cauliflower in the pizzeria or restaurant:

  • Cauliflower Wings. Large chicken wing-sized florets dredged in egg and flour then deep-fried and tossed in your proprietary wing sauce served with blue cheese and celery.
  • Cauli-Caesar Salad. (See recipe below.)
  • Cauliflower “Ribs”. Grilled cauliflower leaving the stem on to hold like a rib while using your proprietary rib sauce to finish.
  • Cauli-Mac. Mac and cheese with small sautéed cauliflower florets and cauliflower ricotta. (See recipe at PizzaToday.com.)
  • Cauliflower Slaw. Shaved cabbage and shaved raw cauliflower, onion, parsley, sweet peppers and chopped raisin.
  • Puglian Cauliflower Pasta. Cauliflower, pancetta, cherry tomato, Pecorino, garlic, dried chili and extra virgin olive oil tossed with orecchiette or capunti pasta.

 

Heads-up!

Cauliflower can certainly offer your guests a great vegan/vegetarian alterative to turn to and it is easily manipulated and cost-effective. Here are some other food pairings to experiment with: walnuts, sweet potato, sesame, raisons, olives, onions, mustard, almonds, bread crumbs, cheddar, coconut, spinach, curry, potato, peas, tomato, vinegar, yogurt, ginger, gorgonzola, lemon zest, Parmigiano, sage, soy sauce, scallion, cashews, orange, tamarind, Brussel sprouts, chickpeas, miso lemon, parsley, barley, ricotta, pecorino, portobello mushrooms, basil, leek, chilies, garlic, mango, capers, anchovies, butter, carrot, collard, stilton, feta, swiss, cilantro, dill, chives, Havarti, lentils, gouda and curry.

Cauli-Caesar Salad

After making hundreds of tableside Caesar salads from scratch at Entre Nous Restaurant in Chicago, I can honestly say that this wonderful salad must be the most popular salad of all time. This version, although not vegan or vegetarian because of the anchovies, accentuates the paired flavors of cauliflower and eggy-garlic with punchy anchovy atop the textural boldness of the romaine. The little crunchy cauliflower florets beat normal croutons by a mile! I learned this unique presentation at C’est Si Bon restaurant in Chicago and it always received “wows” when presented to guests.

Get the Cauli-Caesar Salad recipe.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Appetizers: Let’s Get It Started https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/appetizers-lets-get-it-started/ Mon, 02 Dec 2019 14:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/appetizers-lets-get-it-started/ Introduce new wow starters When Pizza Today’s 2019 Independent Pizzeria of Year chef/owner Nick Strawhecker of Dante presented us with a spread of shareable delicacies, I knew we were in for a special treat during a visit to sister restaurant, Forno, in Omaha. Strawhecker detailed how he had discovered the appetizer while strolling a side […]

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Introduce new wow starters

When Pizza Today’s 2019 Independent Pizzeria of Year chef/owner Nick Strawhecker of Dante presented us with a spread of shareable delicacies, I knew we were in for a special treat during a visit to sister restaurant, Forno, in Omaha.

Strawhecker detailed how he had discovered the appetizer while strolling a side street in the Emilia Romagna region of Italy. Tigelle is a flatbread similar to the English muffin that is served with a variety of American and Italian meats, cheese, pickled or roasted vegetables and unique condiments. The tigelle’s food cost is high but so is its priced tag. A half order is $25 and full order is $39, prices that are in keeping with a casual, fine-dining restaurant. It’s a rare item that has a story that sells, making it a popular menu item at Forno.

Not all appetizers are universal. What works for a small-town mom and pop shop may not work for a fine-dining restaurant. The key is finding the niche that works for your market, can be prepared by your staff and falls in line with your food costing and sales goals.

Breadsticks, garlic knots and wings aren’t going out of fashion on appetizer menus anytime soon. What are some interesting apps that customers will crave, while increasing check averages? Let’s look at produce, cheese and protein apps to test in your kitchen.

 

Ripe for the Pickin’

Produce has taken a starring role on menus, so says the National Restaurant Association’s “What’s Hot Culinary Forecast”. Let them stand alone on your app offerings.

I was more than skeptical when a friend ordered a cauliflower appetizer for the table. To be honest, I’ve never liked cauliflower. It arrived as the whole head, charred to perfection, with capers, chili flakes, lemon squeezed over the top and served with a caper/lemon mustard. It was so simple, yet so divine. This one appetizer has made me a believer and was a catalyst in my latest veggie app devouring ventures. Here are some other vegetables shining solo on app menus:

• Fried green tomatoes or fried green beans. Give them a basic cornmeal breading and pair them with a creamy dipping sauce, like Remoulade or spicy garlic aioli.

• French fries. This lackluster side can be transformed into a must-have app. First, test the right fry style. Is your pizzeria a steak, crinkle, shoestring or homestyle fries kind of place? Toss fries in unique flavoring like cilantro, lime and adobo seasoning or lemon, garlic, parsley and Parmesan. Get just as creative with a few specialty condiments.

• Avocado fries. Curiosity will pique customers’ interests and the flavor will keep them returning for more. Get the Avocado Fries recipe.

• House-pickled vegetables. Dill is not the only way to pickle. Go classic with Giardiniera style or go wild with adventurous herbs, spices and sugar.

 

Say “Cheese”

You’ve painstakingly selected every cheese in your restaurant. Showcase a few in a major way on your starters menu.

• Burrata. It is hot right now and it sells itself with its soft exterior and creamy interior. Let it stand out on a bed of basil and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of sea salt or serve it with roasted peaches and pistachio pesto.   

• Goat cheese. Bake or whipped with lemon, rosemary and garlic, goat cheese is an ideal spread for crostini.

• Mozzarella. Think mozz bar. Showcase your fresh mozzarella and burrata, accompanied by roasted cherry tomatoes and prosciutto.

If you have a killer craft beer menu, why not work with your restaurant beer guru to create a one-of-a-kind beer cheese featuring a local or specialty craft beer on draft? Serve it with a warm, house-made pretzel.

 

Nice to Meat You

Take traditional Italian appetizers and apply new spins on them. Mix up the following Italian favorites:

• Meatballs. Change the look of everyone’s favorite meatballs by going with pork or chicken and a Parmesan cream sauce.

• Fried calamari. The classic can become Tempura fried calamari by changing the breading. Get the Tempura Fried Calamari recipe.

 

Denise Greer is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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2020 Menu Guide https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/2020-menu-guide/ Mon, 02 Dec 2019 13:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/2020-menu-guide/ Get appetizer, pizza, main dish and dessert recipes to take your menu into the 2020s. Browse Pizza Today’s 2020 Menu Guide:   Summertime Pie Get the Summertime Pie recipe.   Parmesan Zucchini Sticks Get the Parmesan Zucchini Sticks recipe.   Meatball Slider Get the Meatball Slider recipe.   Hot Mess Get the Hot Mess recipe. […]

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2020 menu guide

Get appetizer, pizza, main dish and dessert recipes to take your menu into the 2020s. Browse Pizza Today’s 2020 Menu Guide:

 

Summertime Pie

summertime pie, zucchini, tomato, ricotta, pizza

Get the Summertime Pie recipe.

 

Parmesan Zucchini Sticks

Parmesan Zucchini Sticks

Get the Parmesan Zucchini Sticks recipe.

 

Meatball Slider

meatball slider

Get the Meatball Slider recipe.

 

Hot Mess

hot mess, grilled sandwich. hot italian sandwich

Get the Hot Mess recipe.

 

Bacon & Beer Cheese Pizza

Bacon, Beer Cheese, Pizza

Get the Bacon & Beer Cheese Pizza recipe.

 

Caramel Apple Pizza

Caramel Apple Pizza

Get the Caramel Apple Pizza recipe.

 

Pizza Mexicana

Pizza Mexicana

Get the Pizza Mexicana recipe.

 

Spicy Seafood Pizza

Spicy Seafood Pizza

Get the Spicy Seafood Pizza recipe.

 

Sweet and Sour Pizza

Sweet and Sour Pizza

Get the Sweet and Sour Pizza recipe.

 

Banana Chocolate Crunch Pizza

Get the Banana Chocolate Crunch Pizza recipe.

 

Limoncello Wings

Limoncello Wings

Get the Limoncello Wings recipe.

 

Chicken Pesto Pizza

Chicken Pesto Pizza

Get the Chicken Pesto Pizza recipe.

 

Date Night

Date Night, pizza, dates, bacon, goat cheese, fig jam

Get the Date Night recipe.

 

Chicken Montablan

Get the Chicken Montablan recipe.

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Stuffed Pizzas: The Stuff of Legends https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/stuffed-pizzas-the-stuff-of-legends/ Thu, 07 Nov 2019 19:32:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/stuffed-pizzas-the-stuff-of-legends/ There’s more than one way to stuff a pizza Stuffed-crust pizzas isn’t a new idea. Pizza Hut has been one-upping its stuffed-crust pizza since it debuted in 1995. The pizza chain has rolled out bacon and cheese, grilled cheese and pepperoni stuffed versions. But it was a hot dog stuffed crust pizza that nearly broke […]

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There’s more than one way to stuff a pizza

star pizza, stuffed crust, pepperoni starStuffed-crust pizzas isn’t a new idea. Pizza Hut has been one-upping its stuffed-crust pizza since it debuted in 1995. The pizza chain has rolled out bacon and cheese, grilled cheese and pepperoni stuffed versions. But it was a hot dog stuffed crust pizza that nearly broke the Internet in 2012.

But the tradition stretches (pun intended) long before Pizza Hut put its stamp on the technique. Let’s look at three recipes with three different ways to stuff the crust.

 

Star Pizza

A star-shaped pizza is a stunner. Just browse the #starpizza hashtag on Instagram. It’s a simple technique with a knockout presentation. The origin of this beauty traces to D’ Attilio’s alla Carnevale pizza in Naples, Italy. It’s been on the pizzeria’s menu since the 1940s. We tried our own version of the star pizza in the Pizza Today Test Kitchen.

The Pepperoni Star

Get The Pepperoni Star recipe.

 

Chicago Stuffed Pizza

This is a classic Chicago-style stuffed pizza from the late Pat Bruno. It’s not to be confused with Deep Dish. This is basically a double crust with toppings and cheese in between the layers and the sauce on top.

Combo Stuffed Pizza

Get Stuffed Pizza recipe.

 

Stuffed-crust Pizza

Placing cheese and other fillings near the edge of the crust and folding the dough over is the most common and maybe the simplest way to add a stuffed crusted pizza to your lineup. You can even get creative with the fillings.

Four-Cheese Stuffed Crust Pizza

Get the Four-Cheese Stuffed Crust Pizza recipe.

Denise Greer is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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Man on the Street: “It Just Doesn’t Work” https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-it-just-doesnt-work/ Fri, 01 Nov 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/man-on-the-street-it-just-doesnt-work/ Something’s wrong. The pizza you thought would be the star of your menu isn’t selling. Did you price it wrong? Is it too weird? Does it just taste terrible? As an entrepreneur, you’re constantly throwing ideas against the wall. Sometimes they stick and sometimes they don’t. I’ve seen lots of pizzerias attempt greatness only to […]

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Something’s wrong. The pizza you thought would be the star of your menu isn’t selling. Did you price it wrong? Is it too weird? Does it just taste terrible? As an entrepreneur, you’re constantly throwing ideas against the wall. Sometimes they stick and sometimes they don’t. I’ve seen lots of pizzerias attempt greatness only to find that their genius doesn’t always translate to success in the restaurant.

Scott Wiener Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Scott Wiener
Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Realizing that something doesn’t work is the first step towards fixing it. If you’re paying attention to your financials, a failing product shouldn’t come as a surprise. That’s not to say that everything you sell needs to be independently profitable, but a dish that doesn’t move or attract some kind of attention should set off a few alarms.

Once you know you’re in trouble, it’s time to figure out what’s causing the problem. Start by asking your customers. I’m shocked by the number of operators I meet who don’t ask their customers for input. Just be clear on whom you’re asking. The local school teacher whose class visits your pizzeria every November for a free pizza making lesson might not give you an honest answer. Ask the grumpy guy who orders a small cheese pie every Monday afternoon. Ask the kids who come in after school. Ask everybody. Just make sure you follow the hopefully logical next step: listen to what they say.

The customer isn’t always right, but they’re paying your bills — so they certainly get some say in your product. I’ve seen pizzerias pivot their entire concepts because their customers just didn’t understand the original product. The best businesses listen to their customers and adapt to their concerns. I make the mistake all the time with my business when I believe in my gut that something should work yet the feedback disagrees. My gut is not always right.

It can be easy to get swept up in the excitement of new equipment, new techniques, and new ingredients, but don’t be afraid to admit that something just doesn’t work. Maybe that new technique isn’t actually better than what you were already doing. A pizzeria in Manhattan recently started adding a handful of beautiful 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano to their pizzas after the bake. As the owner explained to me, he did it to de-emphasize the sweetness of his sauce. There’s a lot to unpack about that methodology but suffice it to say the move didn’t work. His brain told him it would work but that just wasn’t the reality of the situation. He must have tested it on more people because the next time I walked into the pizzeria, he told me he scrapped the idea. Being honest with yourself isn’t easy but it is necessary.

If you believe so strongly in a pizza that isn’t moving and think you can overcome all odds, it’s time for an all-out assault. Give out samples; feature it on your menu; send out press releases about this new exotic specialty. Post on social media about how it’s made and why you love it so much. If that doesn’t inspire the masses, at least you can sleep at night knowing you did everything you could. Scrap it, then move onto the next idea that’ll knock their socks off.

Scott Wiener is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org.

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Chicken Wings: Taking Flight https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/chicken-wings-taking-flight/ Fri, 01 Nov 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/chicken-wings-taking-flight/ Wings remain as relevant as ever — here’s how to help sales soar I love wings. Something about the vinegary, spicy flavor tempts my taste buds in all the right ways. Baked, fried … doesn’t matter. Prefer them naked, but breaded will do in a pinch as well. They can be my main course or […]

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Wings remain as relevant as ever — here’s how to help sales soar

Raspberry Habanero Wings, chicken wings, appetizers

Raspberry Habanero Wings

I love wings. Something about the vinegary, spicy flavor tempts my taste buds in all the right ways. Baked, fried … doesn’t matter. Prefer them naked, but breaded will do in a pinch as well. They can be my main course or an appetizer. I love them without pizza. I love them even more with pizza. In short, I love them!

And I’m not the only one. Wings have been a mainstream menu mainstay for decades now. If you don’t offer them, I’d be really curious to find out why. If you do, you probably sell them by the proverbial boat load.

While the iconic Buffalo wing remains as good as it gets, today’s discriminating diners are more adventurous than ever. What that means for you is that it might be time to branch out by offering a variety of new and unique flavors. From sweet to savory to scorching hot, there are a variety of sauces and dry rubs designed to help your wing sales take flight.

Much like you tinker with your dough fermentation times and techniques, there’s something to be said for going into the kitchen and getting creative with ingredients in a mission to dress up your chicken. One of my favorites is a Raspberry Habanero sauce that lures you in with sweetness and then goes arsonist crazy at the end.

 

Raspberry Habanero Wings

Get the Raspberry Habanero Wings recipe.

 

Seeing as though the Pizza Today office is in Louisville, Kentucky, you may also have guessed that I enjoy a good bourbon nearly as much as I enjoy chicken wings. Why not put the two together? Here’s one your customers will love.

 

Bluegrass Bourbon Wings

Ge the Bluegrass Bourbon Wings recipe.

 

Note: A sister recipe featuring Limoncello will be featured in our Menu Guide in next month’s issue!

Even if you can’t take the heat or don’t like bourbon and think these specific flavor profiles won’t resonate with your customer base, the point is that today’s most prolific restaurants are pushing the envelope with beyond-the-norm wing sauces. Have your staff get to work with an incentive-based wing sauce contest. I’m sure most pizza kitchens will come up with something great if you set a goal and then get to work on achieving it!

Jeremy White is Editor-in-Chief at Pizza Today.

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The Climbers: Pizza Topping trends and how to cash in on them https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/the-climbers-pizza-topping-trends-and-how-to-cash-in-on-them/ Tue, 01 Oct 2019 04:02:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/the-climbers-pizza-topping-trends-and-how-to-cash-in-on-them/ There’s a pizza meme going around of the brutal scene in Casino where Joe Pesci is forced to watch his brother get whacked. However, instead of his brother, it’s pineapple going on pizza. The point of the meme is to show how traumatic it is to any true Italian Pizza aficionado to see pineapple “ruin” […]

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strawberry, pear, pizza

There’s a pizza meme going around of the brutal scene in Casino where Joe Pesci is forced to watch his brother get whacked. However, instead of his brother, it’s pineapple going on pizza. The point of the meme is to show how traumatic it is to any true Italian Pizza aficionado to see pineapple “ruin” a pizza. It made me laugh when I saw it, but the next thing I thought was: I’ve made a lot of money on pineapple in the last decade.

Now if you’re reading this magazine, you are in this industry and know that pineapple on pizza is something that a broad base of customers want and enjoy. It’s not even that crazy of a topping when you think about it. It’s a yellow fruit, same as a yellow bell pepper. Whether you agree with the worthiness of pineapple to be a real topping, it doesn’t matter. Owning a pizzeria is about making a profit through great and multi-faceted options that progress your brand. If you push that your brand has ZERO PINEAPPLE TOLERNACE, there is marketability to that purist approach. That means if you’re not going to carry anything Avant Garde, you should say that. Otherwise it’s just a wasted opportunity.

Restaurants that can avoid all eclectic toppings are restaurants built on being classic pizzerias in every sense of the word. And while there’s a nostalgia about that style of restaurant, it is by definition stagnant. Unless you’re rolling deep in cash, that style of restaurant is not your most profitable pursuit. Advancing the game with new and exciting styles of pizza that give your customers something new to enjoy for the more adventurous palate (along with the classics) is a prudent financial choice. Pineapple is not a new industry trend that will break down culinary barriers.

In the last 20 years, there have been many growth spurts of popular styles or items that have come to fruition. Barbecue pizza in the mid to late 90s progressed to different variations of pasta on pizza in the last 10 years. The new trends are taking things that are just standard in other culinary fare and normalizing them to pizza.

Here are some top choices of up and coming toppings and how to maximize them at your pizzeria.

Pickles

Pickled anything really. Sliced pickles, the classic cucumber version, or more interesting pickled vegetables are on the rise. They provide an extremely tart taste that is counterbalanced by a base cheese and accented best by the salty flavor of a cured meat like prosciutto or pancetta. At the same time, you could do it super basic and keep it with bacon instead.

Corn

You can choose basic or gourmet, from seasonal stalks to precut frozen. Roasted, not roasted, served with cotija cheese or cilantro makes it different, flavorful and fun. Using a topping like corn can maximize top of mind awareness and the “Oh, have you tried that new corn pizza at (blank) pizzeria,” that you want to optimize.

Gourmet Sliced Meats

Salami and Canadian bacon are perfectly fine meats, but they don’t provide a call to action. The goal is to wow the customer.

Soppressata and different versions of wine cured meats give your pizza a flair along with a sense of tradition that basic deli cuts won’t do.

Speck takes prosciutto and turns it into something even more refined. We smoke our own at Andolini’s and it is a heavy contributor to our fan base.

The benefit of having these more varied styles of meats goes beyond more topping options. This also allows you to have a great charcuterie board as a high-profit appetizer to additionally add to your menu mix.

Even pepperoni, which is a standard topping for most all pizzerias, can be achieved differently with a thick-cut cup-and-char that’s cut in house. It provides a more interesting texture than a classic pepperoni, and any pizzeria can do this. Even the ones that are never going to put pickles on a pizza.

Honey and the Sweetness

I’ve judged many different competitions at Pizza Expo. I’ve seen a trend in the last five years in the nontraditional competitions towards an abundance of spicy pizzas. I’ve seen the different spice levels and use various sources beyond cayenne, and overall just a lot spicier pizzas than there were 15 years ago. I don’t believe that spicy is dying off as much as I believe sweet accents such as honey are on the rise. Honey, agave, natural raw honey or the basic plastic bear are all on the rise. They can go on pizzas at the highest end pizzeria to the more acceptable mid-level slice house just as easily.

Fruit

Most fruits for the last 15 years have been relegated to dessert pizzas if used at all, and to mention dessert pizza in several shops is verboten. Fruit is a huge category, but again when you talk base level flavor like sweet, savory and tart, fruit can be all three. Strawberries and pears coupled with goat cheese or ricotta with microgreens are all items that are on non-dessert pizzas now. The use of fruit on pizza isn’t solely in LA and the cuts of Brooklyn anymore.

Microgreens

You see they’re just like regular greens except these ones…..wait for it….. are micro.

Chalk this up to being a fad, or indulge it. It’s more presentable to have micro basil on some dishes than its larger counterpart. Basil, of course, being the multilateral topping that it is, can be used in several different ways. Microgreens are baby plants and should not be confused with sprouts. Their stems are significantly more edible than that of fully realized adult plants. Cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, watercress, arugula, even garlic, all have microgreen options you can utilize on your menu.

CBD and Marijuana

CBD, devoid of any THC, infused into flour or as an additional topping with oil is buzz-worthy in the current social climate. Its actual effectiveness and or the necessity to use it culinarily is without question a fad. CBD infusions might go away, but CBD and THC products being an acceptable part of our culture is here to stay.

As the marijuana industry becomes more socially accepted and as more states legalize it, people are seeking ways to incorporate it into their lives. Where that’ll lead in the future is anyone’s guess. If you’re in a state that does sell marijuana legally, and use of marijuana matches brand, it’s totally within reason to utilize it. Not only that, promote it and maximize it for your financial gain.

I encourage you to experiment with these different toppings with your pizza. Have fun taking your recipes and brand to the next level while you give your customer base something new to try and talk about. It’s things like this that build your word of mouth advertising as well as your customer loyalty.

Mike Bausch is the owner of Andolini’s Pizzeria in Tulsa, Oklahoma. He is a frequent speaker at the International Pizza Expo family of tradeshows.

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Top That: Dollops add gusto to great pizzas https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/top-that-dollops-add-gusto-to-great-pizzas/ Tue, 01 Oct 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/top-that-dollops-add-gusto-to-great-pizzas/ While I can’t remember the first time I ate a pizza with dollops of any cheese, I do remember the first one that wowed me. It was Tony Gemignani’s New Yorker at Pizza Rock in Sacramento I traveled to my first year at Pizza Today. The dollops of ricotta made that pie go from interesting […]

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sweet potato pizza, yogurt, dollops

While I can’t remember the first time I ate a pizza with dollops of any cheese, I do remember the first one that wowed me. It was Tony Gemignani’s New Yorker at Pizza Rock in Sacramento I traveled to my first year at Pizza Today. The dollops of ricotta made that pie go from interesting to amazing for me.

Ricotta is classic dollop. Pre- or post-bake, the soft, creamy and somewhat sweet ricotta is versatile and punctuates the flavor of salty meat pizza or an earthy mushroom pie.

Since that ricotta dollop moment, I’ve encountered a variety of cheeses dolloped on countless specialty pies. The one commonality is that there are no rules. Pre- or post-bake is partial to the pizzeria and pizza maker. Dollops can be as small as a dime or as large as a half-dollar. They can go with rustic application by hand or by spoon. If you want uniformity, try piping the dollop. It leaves less mess on the makeline. You can even use different shaped tips for the various dollops you use. Some cheeses will require thinning with cream to create optimal consistency for piping.

Let’s look at other cheeses that can put the exclamation mark on your specialty pizzas.

  • Goat Cheese. Chévre has a distinctively tart flavor. Typically, its texture is soft and creamy and can be applied pre- and post-bake. Delicious combinations include prosciutto and arugula or caramelized onion and mushroom.
  • Mascarpone. Technically considered a curdled cream, the soft, delicate mascarpone is buttery rich. It has a light and sweet flavor and its smooth texture makes mascarpone a perfect post-bake dollop. Try a mascarpone finish on a pizza with roasted tomatoes, olives and pancetta or a dessert pie with figs and honey.
  • Cream Cheese. While a bit unorthodox for traditionalists, the tangy, soft and sweet cheese is gaining popularity and shares similarities with mascarpone. Cream cheese atop a jalapeño and bacon or pepperoni pizza is a winner. Artichokes and spinach also complement cream cheese well. 

 

Whip It Good

Whipping cheese can allow you to dollop a cheese that doesn’t have the exact consistency for the application. There are several ways to whip various cheeses into shape.

  • Feta. This is a technique similar to a Greek Tyrosalata recipe where Greek yogurt, garlic, olive oil and herbs are pulsed in a food processor to a smooth consistency. Try a chicken and pesto pizza finished with a whipped feta.
  • Bleu Cheese. Whipping up bleu cheese is as easy as blending in cream cheese or heavy whipping cream. Blow customers’ minds with this addition to a buffalo chicken pizza.
  • Parmesan. Change the profile of Parmesan by blending it with heavy whipping cream. Thicken it up with another cheese like fontina. Finish a four-cheese pizza with a whipped Parmesan for extra zip.
  • Other stronger cheeses. Experiment with your favorite cheeses to create a whipped cheese that is uniquely yours.

Flavors can be infused during whipping to give the cheese a one-of-a-kind flavor. Some enhancements include adding honey and lemon; garlic, Parmesan and parsley; lemon and herbs (thyme, rosemary, fennel or dill); or pumpkin and maple syrup.

 

Beyond Cheese

Test other dollop variations that are still in the dairy family, like crème fraiche, Fromage blanc, crema, sour cream or yogurt. Since the liquid content is so high in these options, they perform better as post-bake pizza toppings.

“Yogurt cheese” is made from Greek yogurt and salt strained through a cheese cloth, that is refrigerated to allow to drain. Yogurt cheese can be a great addition to a Mediterranean pizza or Greek-style pizza.

Dollops don’t always come in the form of dairy products. Red sauce, guacamole, pesto, fruit jam, apple butter, aioli, garlic, lardo and hazelnut spread can all be dolloped on a fresh pizza.

If you have a plant-based following, there are even vegan dollop options, including whipped coconut milk, cashew cream or aquafaba.

Just in time for autumn, add your flair to this fall pizza:

 

Autumn Whip

Get the Autumn Whip recipe.

Denise Greer is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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New Wave of American Pizza https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/new-wave-of-american-pizza/ Sun, 01 Sep 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/new-wave-of-american-pizza/ A new crop of pizza makers are ignoring the rules and achieving their own vision Being the rolling stone that it is, pizza has gathered no moss since first gracing America’s lips in the late 19th century. It’s clear that what was once considered the child of Southern Italy has now been adopted by every […]

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A new crop of pizza makers are ignoring the rules and achieving their own vision

new wave of american pizza

Being the rolling stone that it is, pizza has gathered no moss since first gracing America’s lips in the late 19th century. It’s clear that what was once considered the child of Southern Italy has now been adopted by every culture and destination. American pizza makers have been particularly diverse in forging their identity, evolving the Neapolitan bread into distinct regional variants across the country. With so much diversity, no single style represents all of American pizza. Instead, a common aesthetic among the country’s most exciting pizza makers is driving progress. Who are these pizza makers and what makes them stick out among the pack? It all starts with education.

Pizza schools didn’t exist until the late 1980s and they didn’t come to America until over a decade later. Now prospective pizza makers can seek instruction from at least a dozen schools, most of which offer certification in specific styles. Tony Gemignani, whose International School of Pizza was the first in the U.S. to teach American pizza styles, remembers the lack of resources when he got into the business in the 1990s.

“It was the Wild West. If you wanted to learn about something, you couldn’t just Google it,” recalls Gemignani. “The books that were out were very general. Nothing gave much detail because they were written by cookbook writers and not by pizza makers or bakers.”

Now the scope of information is much broader, so anyone interested can access reliable information with a few clicks or swipes. At Gemignani’s school, he sees an increasing number of students whose virtual exposure to foreign pizza styles inspires them to pursue their mastery. He credits the growth of regional variants like Neapolitan, Roman pizza al taglio, Grandma and Detroit to the broad access to educational materials.

On the flip side, we see a host of new wave pizza makers avoiding definition. Rather than sequestering themselves within a set of rules, they’re experimenting to achieve their own visions. Ingredient availability has expanded so sourcing is much easier and more exciting. Dan Richer, of Razza in Jersey City, New Jersey, has found this to be the key to creating a unique identity with his pizza.

“Let’s move away from buying what they want and switch to buying what we want,” he says about breaking free from the paint-by-numbers majority of the industry. That’s the idea behind movements like These Hands, which credits pizza makers’ personal decision-making power in their processes rather than leaving decisions to the guidelines of a known style.

Richer also finds inspiration from communicating with others in the industry. In the past, events like Pizza Expo were the only venues for exchanging ideas. Now pizza makers collaborate over Instagram and Facebook. These portals into each other’s processes have even transformed home pizza makers into professionals that have taken the lead in pushing the industry to new frontiers. Paul Giannone (Paulie Gee’s), Norma Knepp (Norma’s Pizza), Will Fain (Handsome Pizza), Scott Rivera (Scottie’s Pizza Parlor), Serhan Ayhan (Boston Pizza) and Nicole Russell (Last Dragon Pizza) all learned the craft by researching online. Now they’re gaining success and leading the way for others to follow in their paths. Their ability to push boundaries might be easier because of their lack of experience, not in spite of it.

Nicole Russell taught herself the basics but made her greatest improvements only after tapping into the knowledge of other industry leaders.

“I’ve had to figure out a lot of things on my own, but now I’m spending more time with experts learning about techniques, grains, cheeses, seasoning and baking methods. I’ve even been able to develop relationships with distributors to access higher quality ingredients,” she says.

What started as virtual communication transformed into real-world collaboration, as Russell discovered that established pizza makers were not only willing, but also excited about working together. She’s a fixture at pop-up pizza events produced by Nino Coniglio (Caputo Cup champion and Chopped winner). Years ago, it would have been unheard of for a pizzeria to welcome an outsider into their kitchen, but now it’s seen as an opportunity for both parties to improve. The concept of secret recipes doesn’t exist in the minds of modern pizza makers.

For those who grew up in the business, the decision to stray from the norm is a bit more difficult. Frank Tuttolomondo faced that very quandary at his family’s pizzeria on New York City’s Upper West Side. “It’s a generational thing,” he says of the changing pizza landscape. “(My parents’ generation) opened pizzerias to make money and feed their families. Now we can do it to make the food we want to make.” Frank tried changing the recipe at his family’s pizzeria (Mama’s) but customers revolted, so he left to open his own shop (Mama’s Too) one block away. Rather than be driven by what he knows will sell, Frank can follow his instincts to make the pizza he wants to make. Based on his recent New York Times review and the resulting lines out the door, it appears to be working.

On the technical side, new wave pizza makers are alike in their common obsession with dough. Peter Reinhart attributes this to the rise of the artisan baking industry. Before writing books like American Pie: My Search for the Perfect Pizza and Perfect Pan Pizza, Reinhart wrote (James Beard award winning) books about bread and taught bread baking at Johnson and Wales University.

“Bread bakers are making the same intuitive leap I did because pizza is bread, so better bread means better pizza,” he says of a clear pattern in the pizza industry.

Reinhart points out that the most dramatic evidence of the amalgamation of the bread industry into the pizza world was this year’s inclusion of the International Artisan Bakery Expo in the floor plan of the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas. He also notes that several leaders of America’s current wave of pizza makers started in the bread world. Nancy Silverton (Pizzeria Mozza), Brian Spangler (Apizza Scholls), Audrey Kelly (Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage), Ken Forkish (Ken’s Artisan Pizza), and Anthony Mangieri (Una Pizza Napoletana) all found their way into the business after first working with bread. Those who didn’t come from a bread baking background found their way to the same conclusion. Anthony Falco had no experience with bread or pizza before taking the lead on the pizza program at Roberta’s in Brooklyn. Now he consults for pizzerias across the planet, with his central policy being the encouragement of fermentation without use of commercial yeast.   

If there’s one characteristic common among all new wave American pizza makers, it’s that they’re concerned with self-improvement. Whether sourcing better cheese, experimenting with new fermentation schedules or testing their pizza in an unfamiliar oven, the country’s most exciting pizza makers are not trying to make the best. They’re just trying to beat their last pie. And they’re taking their colleagues along for the ride as they do it.

Scott Wiener is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org.

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Melter Skeltor https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/melter-skeltor/ Sun, 01 Sep 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/melter-skeltor/ Cheese combinations are on everyone’s minds these days  I once went to see a baseball game with my son and a few friends. As we sat around the hotel pool after the game, a friend called to have some pizza delivered. The pizza came piping hot as all of us started our feeding frenzy, then […]

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Cheese combinations are on everyone’s minds these days 

royale with cheese, cheese combinations pizza

I once went to see a baseball game with my son and a few friends. As we sat around the hotel pool after the game, a friend called to have some pizza delivered. The pizza came piping hot as all of us started our feeding frenzy, then I noticed something — the cheese on this pizza had no taste whatsoever and felt like a warm plastic jello in my mouth. I asked the friend who ordered the pizza what kind of cheese they use and he casually replied, “Oh yea, they don’t use real cheese there. That’s why they put so much parm on top.” I was blown away because, outside of my earlier Velveeta days, I’d never experienced a no-cheese-cheese and a blend used by a business to compensate for a no-cheese-cheese.

Cheesy combinations are on everyone’s minds these days because chefs, restaurateurs and pizza people have realized the infinite possibilities that pairing cheeses affords. Even with this new interest in combining cheeses, mozzarella is still king of pizza because of its milky, melty structure. But it can still get lost when topped with strong topping flavors. In my pizzeria, we’ve opted for a combination of mozzarella and provolone and we’ve also expanded our cheese experience by using up to 15 different cheeses in our menu mix including local and even house-made cheeses like vegan and yogurt cheeses. Over the years, I’ve found that the use of cheese combinations depends upon several different factors starting with the most important for any independent pizza owner, which is price.

 

Blend it like Beckham

How can I get the most bang for the buck out of cheeses? We all know intuitively how much mozzarella costs but is it worth it to add a mild-flavored cheese to your mozzarella pizza? Probably not. My rule of thumb is if they cannot tell the difference and you cannot get any street “cred” and sales through marketing, don’t bother bro. Quality mozzarella is definitely worth it, so any complimentary cheeses should be strong enough or visible and separated from the mozzarella melt to transform the pizza to the next level.

What historical flavor profiles are you shooting for? You wouldn’t use mountain gorgonzola paired with Pecorino Sardo with a red mullet-caper pizza topped with balsamic glaze? (Would you?) Traditional flavor profiles are well documented in history because they really work. Like mozzarella and Parmigiano Reggiano, pecorino and ricotta, ricotta and gruyere, goat cheese and Neufchatel, fromage blanc and blue cheese and Manchego paired with queso fresco.

When are you applying the cheese?

After competing for numerous years overseas, I’ve come to love cooking with one cheese then finishing off the pizza with another. For example, finishing an aged mozzarella pizza with the milky ooziness of a stracciatella or burrata is absolute heaven. After the oven bake, flakes of feta add a salty-sour finish to a pizza or a slice of brie or Camembert topped to melt slowly on a pie or flatbread is a real winner.

 

Looking under the hood

I am a big advocate of cheese saucing especially with béchamel sauce, (AKA Alfredo, Bechemele, white sauce.) Using a fairly small number of strong cheeses with the Alfredo sauce elevates a pie to new levels and, after all, who says you only have to use a tomato sauce? Here are a few of my favorite pairings with this great white sauce:

  • Gorgonzola Cream. A great Gorgonzola cream sauce is perfect when topping mozzarella with spinach, fennel, pear,
    tomato, walnut, pine nuts, peaches, beef, bacon and even a yogurt cheese (like labneh) smooths the loud funk of the gorgonzola for a quadruple cheese pizza.
  • Asiago Cream. This is another full-flavored sharpness to the laid-back béchamel under an umbrella of mozzarella. I’ve noticed that Asiago tends to get even stronger when cooled so this combination is great with bacon, grapes, figs, potatoes, prosciutto di Parma and arugula.
  • Feta Cream. This crumbly cheese can be made from goat, sheep or cows and goats milk combines wonderfully with béchamel sauce to create a slightly tangy and almost peppery base for toppings. Best with spinach and beets with walnuts, olives, tomato, cherries, mint, rosemary, honey, pears, pancetta, leeks, salami and even strawberries.

 

Combo Nations

Just like any great entertainer, you’ve got to be on point when presenting your pizza to customers. Besides, you’ve worked countless hours to hone your dough and sauces and sought out the best toppings for them, why just cut the pizza and shove it in front of them? Finishing a pizza with all the world’s cheeses creates a wonderful element of surprise for your customers, here are some cheeses to add to your finishing team:

  • Pecorino Romano. This finely-grained sheep’s milk cheese adds a salty yet fruity finish to pizzas and pairs well with both ricotta and mozzarella. It pairs well with balsamic vinegar, mostarda, honey, chestnuts and duck prosciutto. I love the combination of burrata, pecorino Sardo and pears.
  • Piave Vecchio. This dense cow’s milk cheese from the Veneto region ranges from delicate slightly sweet and fruity for younger ages to nutty and caramelly in older versions. I really love grating this cheese on cured meats such as soppressata Friuli and Prosciutto di Parma after the oven bake. This cheese is wonderful with Montasio, Asiago and Parmigiano-Reggiano.
  • Mascarpone. This mild, creamy and buttery cheese isn’t technically a cheese because acids are used instead of rennet to thicken the cream. It doesn’t stand up well to high heat but can add a much-needed sweet creaminess to fruits, pumpkin, berries and figs. I add a little maple syrup to it to finish off high-fat pizzas using guanciale, pancetta and lardo or drizzled over figs with arugula. Combining Mascarpone with grated Parmigiano, ricotta and roasted garlic makes a beautiful garlic pudding for a sauce.

 

The Royale with Cheese

This is one of the most prolific pizzas in my menu mix. It started as a riff on John Travolta’s line in the movie Pulp Fiction as he described what the Big Mac is called in France and it also highlighted a great local band named The Royales. This pizza’s genius is in its ginormous flavor and its simplicity.

Get The Royale with Cheese pizza recipe.

 

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Flatbread Pizza: The World is Flat https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/flatbread-pizza-the-world-is-flat/ Sun, 01 Sep 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/flatbread-pizza-the-world-is-flat/ Flatbread pizzas provide operations a nice limited-time offering Flatbreads have been around thousands of years. Our early ancestors, once they learned to harness fire, took grain, water and salt and cooked the concoction on rocks heated by flames. The flour they made from whatever grains they had on hand (depending on where they were in […]

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Flatbread pizzas provide operations a nice limited-time offering

apple, arugula, provolone, pizza

Flatbreads have been around thousands of years. Our early ancestors, once they learned to harness fire, took grain, water and salt and cooked the concoction on rocks heated by flames. The flour they made from whatever grains they had on hand (depending on where they were in the world) was different from what we use today, but the end result laid the groundwork for what would one day become pizza.

Most flatbreads aren’t leavened. Today they are easy enough to make in a pizza kitchen for those who want to offer something different as a limited time offering, for instance. Or you can simply cut down the size of your pizza dough, roll it out really thinly, give it a shape and call it a flatbread pizza. It won’t really be a true flatbread, but your customers won’t care as they’ll appreciate the twist with your LTO.

We recently experimented with flatbreads and flatbread-like doughs in the Pizza Today test kitchen, and the resulting creativity yielded some great pizzas. I’m going to start with my personal favorite — which had a lemon-dill cream sauce as a base and was simply decadent.

I’m the guy who, after a long training run, has no problem drinking pickle juice right out of the jar to the extreme disgust of my family. Hey, it provides my body hydration and salt — and tastes delicious!

pulled grilled chicken, fresh chopped Portobello mushrooms, crumbled bacon and roasted bell peppers, dill cream sauce, pizza

Okay, so pickle juice may not be for everyone. But if you love the taste of dill pickles, by extension you’re a fan of dill. The aromatic herb, popular in both Europe and Asia, is often used in seafood dishes. But recently in the Pizza Today test kitchen we discovered it to be an amazing match with chicken, mushrooms and peppers when utilized in a creamy dill sauce. The resulting pizza wasn’t just beautiful, but downright delicious. In fact, I had hoped to sneak a piece of it to a friend of mine who provided the original inspiration for the pizza when she asked me if I had ever had a pizza with dill pickles on it. But no such luck — the magazine and Pizza Expo staff devoured the thing within minutes.

For the sauce, we started with a base of sour cream. We added in some ricotta, as well as heavy whipping cream to thin it a bit. We hit it with lemon juice for acid, then added fresh garlic, salt and pepper for flavor. Lastly, we were liberal with mixing in fresh dill to give it the profile we sought. It turned out remarkably well.

Using that sauce as the base, we added pulled grilled chicken, fresh chopped Portobello mushrooms, crumbled bacon and roasted bell peppers. We then topped it with Asiago cheese and fresh mozzarella. Post bake we hit it with more fresh dill for color and flavor. This pizza smelled and tasted absolutely amazing!

We were thinking fall a bit with the next pizza and wanted to use fresh apple. We knew it would need to be a white pie as well, so we went with an olive oil/light garlic base and added chicken sausage, honey crisp apple, arugula and provolone cheese. As simple as this pizza was, the chicken sausage and apple paired remarkably well together, and the arugula made a nice, slightly bitter contrast to the sweetness of the apple. In all, this one was another winner as well.

Either of these pizzas could be ideal LTOs this autumn, and your bar staff could have fun offering up beer and wine pairings for your servers to suggest with each one. Get in the kitchen with the ingredients and experiment until you find a variation of your liking. You may enjoy the combinations we utilized, or the process may spur your own creativity and you may end up taking the ideas in another direction. But, either way, the key to a fun LTO is to step outside the norm and offer your customers something they can’t get on your menu daily.

While flatbreads obviously are not a prerequisite to doing this, you might find working with them provides your staff and customers a break from the norm, and it’ll give your service crew a nice story to tell as they connect with your guests over a brief pizza history lesson.

The emphasis here is to push the boundaries just a bit, but not too far, while having fun and offering your customer base a delicious reason to order from your pizzeria more frequently. 

Jeremy White is Editor-in-Chief at Pizza Today.

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Cauliflower Crust: The Chameleon https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/cauliflower-crust-the-chameleon/ Sun, 01 Sep 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/cauliflower-crust-the-chameleon/ Cauliflower crust pizza, a go-to alternative Cauliflower is everywhere these days, from rice to mashed potatoes to pizza.  It’s a flowering member of the cabbage family. Known as cruciferous vegetable, the nutrient-dense cauliflower is the chameleon of the group that can be transformed into a variety of foods. It can be minced, mashed, riced and […]

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Cauliflower crust pizza, a go-to alternative

Cauliflower is everywhere these days, from rice to mashed potatoes to pizza.  It’s a flowering member of the cabbage family. Known as cruciferous vegetable, the nutrient-dense cauliflower is the chameleon of the group that can be transformed into a variety of foods. It can be minced, mashed, riced and even cooked, dehydrated and milled. Cauliflower is mild and takes on the flavor of whatever you combine with it.

It’s no wonder cauliflower has become the low-carb, gluten-free go-to alternative. Major pizza chains like Blaze, California Pizza Kitchen and Jet’s have introduced their own cauliflower crust.

Though cauliflower has been a substitute crust since the late 2000s, it began to pick up steam a few short years ago. During that time, the marketing research firm Nielsen reported sales of cauliflower-based products soared 71 percent and they haven’t waned since.

That’s about the time that Doug Craig introduced a cauliflower crust to please one specific customer who wanted a gluten-free option at his 900-square-foot takeout and delivery pizzeria in Findlay, Ohio. Dougie John’s Pizza was one of the first in the area to menu a cauliflower crust pizza. Fast-forward two years, the cauliflower crust is a hot seller. Wednesday is $10 Cauliflower at Dougie John and includes a 10-inch pizza with up to four toppings.

Dougie John uses a pre-made, par-baked cauliflower crust he sources from his supplier. Though when Craig launched it, he went with a crust he found at a local restaurant supply store. “We have a deck oven, so we felt like the crust was made more for a home oven. It was almost overcooking that crust at the temperature we bake at,” he notes, adding that they’ve switched to another brand that tested better at Dougie John’s oven temperature. 

At around $2.60 per crust, pricing is critical, he says, adding that there’s no waste with that crust. His pricing strategy was to take the price of Dougie John’s regular 10-inch pizza crust and add $3 to cover the cost. “I feel like everyone gets it,” he says. “If it’s healthier, it’s going to cost more.

“Our biggest seller is a veggie,” he says. “Our second best are our chicken, bacon ranch and buffalo chicken bacon ranch. We also make it into a garlic cauliflower cheese crust like garlic cheese bread.”

Cheshire Pizza & Ale debuted its cauliflower crust in January. Co-owner Dimitri Magriplis says they sell about 100 pies a week, a great number for an unknown product. “It pairs well with pizza toppings,” he says. “It’s not bland. It’s seasoned well. It complements the ingredients versus your traditional gluten free.”

Cauliflower sales are pulling from gluten-free sales a bit, he says. “They are the ones that seem to be shifting from gluten free to cauliflower because there is a better flavor profile than the options they were given under gluten free.” And it’s not just gluten-intolerant customers. “I’d say 90 percent to 95 percent just have a lower level tolerance with it or are doing it for their own reasons,” he says.

Craig and Magriplis offer advice to operators who are looking to add a cauliflower crust. “The first thing I would recommend is to find a good quality crust that gets crispy,” Craig says. “We find that that’s what people are looking for. The second thing is you want to find a crust that bakes well at a high oven temperature. Some of the crusts would actually burn on the bottom. They would get too done. The crust maybe wasn’t designed for commercial use. I could buy them cheaper, but it wouldn’t give me the same quality that I have using the (product that I have). I make sure that my supplier knows that (others) are selling them for this, and they’ve worked with me on the price. Price is definitely something you want to discuss but being an independent, you always want to take quality over a cheaper price in my opinion.”

Think before you leap. “It’s not something I would take and throw on my menu without knowing that there is a draw from my clientele,” Magriplis says. “Depending on the type of establishment that you have, whether it is more dine in. Keep in mind this product cooks quickly so it needs to be eaten quickly because it will cool quicker. If it’s takeout or delivery and you are looking at 20- to 40-minute turnaround time, I wouldn’t feel comfortable as an operator endorsing the integrity of the product after that much time has lapsed.”

Magriplis goes on to say, “It’s not so much the brands going up against each other as much as it is finding the sweet spot based on the type of oven you use. The issues that you encounter with that is in finding the sweet spot in how long you are going to cook. In our case we use conveyor ovens. I can’t run it on the belt the same way I run my normal pie so I kind of run it through the middle. “Your toppings need enough time to cook in order for it to make sense,” he says. “That takes a little bit of work and time and you eliminate certain toppings from cauliflower crust for that reason. So, for example, our sausage which cooks on the spot through the cooking chamber, I won’t recommend it. If people want it, we’ll go through the extra step of par cooking it before we place it on the crust to finish it off. It’s the same thing with the vegetables. We pre-roast those vegetables.” 

They both warn to do your homework on the specific cauliflower crust on whether it meets the many claims that are out there, such as low-carb or Keto Diet-friendly. Magriplis says they are in the early stages of developing a Keto-friendly cauliflower crust.

After much research, we tried our hand at making a basic cauliflower crust in the Pizza Today test kitchen. Here’s what we discovered:

  • Cauliflower consists of over 90 percent water. It is very challenging to wring out enough liquid to get a crispy crust.
  • A cauliflower “dough” ball has no elasticity. Instead of stretching, you shape the mix to form a circle. Be sure not to go too thin around edges to avoid burning.
  • The crust can be prone to sticking so non-stick surfaces work best.
  • We found hard cheeses like Asiago and Parmesan work better in the mixture than high moisture cheeses like mozzarella.
  • You’ll have to test the amount of egg used to get the right texture. We had to use less egg in our deck oven.

Here’s the basic recipe that we worked with in the test kitchen:

Margherita on Cauliflower Crust

Get the Margherita on Cauliflower Crust recipe.

Denise Greer is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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Man on the Street: New Frontiers in Cheese https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-new-frontiers-in-cheese/ Thu, 01 Aug 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/man-on-the-street-new-frontiers-in-cheese/ I’ve got a chip on my shoulder about cheese. It gets all the attention despite being the pizza component that requires the least amount of effort. You toil over your dough’s ingredients and fermentation schedule. You carefully select the right tomato, applying the proper seasoning and preparation to achieve your target result. Cheese is relatively […]

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cheese pizza, man on the street

I’ve got a chip on my shoulder about cheese. It gets all the attention despite being the pizza component that requires the least amount of effort. You toil over your dough’s ingredients and fermentation schedule. You carefully select the right tomato, applying the proper seasoning and preparation to achieve your target result. Cheese is relatively simple. Just shred it up, thrown it on, and be done with it. Boring. I’ve never been very excited about cheese because it seemed like it required the least amount of attention. But that’s all starting to change, as I’ve been witnessing more pizza makers getting creative with how they use simple cheeses on their pizzas.

Scott Wiener Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Scott Wiener
Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

If you haven’t had a pizza with the cheese added post-bake you haven’t lived. Rather than obliterate a fantastic high-moisture cheese by exposing it to prolonged heat, why not add it after the bake? This works great with fresh fior di latte, mozzarella di bufala, stracciatella, and burrata. Those cheeses would turn your pizza into soup if added pre-bake. Adding it after allows the cheese to taste the way it’s supposed to taste. The temperature contrast between the warm, freshly baked pizza and the cool, refreshing cheese really makes a statement. I’ve even seen low-moisture mozzarella added after the bake, but for a completely different reason. Some late-night slice shops will add an extra handful of mozzarella for buck or two, resulting in some buffer between the customer’s mouth and the hot slice.

On the opposite end of the spectrum, I’m seeing loads of pizzerias utilizing burnt cheese as a feature rather than a flaw. I’ve always opted for slices that have some unintentionally burnt cheese along the edge but now pizzerias are giving it to me on purpose! Caramelized cheese is no longer just a benchmark of bar pies and Detroit-style pizzas, now it’s a useful tool for making better pizzas across the spectrum. I saw a genius move at Good Pie in Las Vegas in which they intentionally caramelize cheese around the entire edge of their gluten free Detroit pizza and the result is stunning. Not only does it mask the otherwise unattractive, it also provides a tasty bonus. I’m sure someone’s already doing it, but I think it’s a good use of this page to beg you to offer burnt cheese bits as a topping. Just load a pan with cheese, bake it, and crush it up on top of my pizza. Please. It’s going to be delicious!

As impressive as post oven cheese and caramelized cheese edges may be, neither can match the thrill of a house-made cheese. I’ve taken thousands of people to hundreds of pizzerias and nothing beats the look on their faces when they find out a pizzeria makes their mozzarella in-house. It’s an instant shot of credibility. Most cheese companies only started selling their curd within the past 20 years, but savvy restaurants have caught onto the benefits. The process requires practice and often costs more than simply buying product, but the romance is hard to top.

You already know your customers love cheese. Try testing out some new applications and broaden the potential of the ingredients you’re already using.

Scott Wiener is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org.

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Mortadella: Don’t Call Me Bologna https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/mortadella-dont-call-me-bologna/ Thu, 01 Aug 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/mortadella-dont-call-me-bologna/ The classic Italian cured sausage — Mortadella on Pizza Let’s set the record straight. Mortadella is not an Italian version of that famous American lunchmeat. Traditional Mortadella is made with finely ground pork, high-quality pork fat (typically from the throat), peppercorns, blend of spices, myrtle berries, pistachios and stuffed into casing. Its slices have a […]

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The classic Italian cured sausage — Mortadella on Pizza

Let’s set the record straight. Mortadella is not an Italian version of that famous American lunchmeat.

Traditional Mortadella is made with finely ground pork, high-quality pork fat (typically from the throat), peppercorns, blend of spices, myrtle berries, pistachios and stuffed into casing. Its slices have a distinctive look of pink sausage with visible peppercorn and lardon shapes throughout. A minimum of 15 percent of the sausage’s weight comes from the lard.

What’s Mortadella origin?

Originated in Bologna, Italy, Mortadella can be traced as far back as the 1200s, but the first known scribed recipe appeared in the 1600s. The Romans called it “farcimen mirtatum” (Myrtle sausage) and it was ground with a mortar.

The Emilia-Romagna region is so enamored with its prized product that the town of Zola Predosa even holds the International Festival of Mortadella each September to celebrate the “Pink Queen” and its production in the region.

You may notice packaging labeled with IGP (Indication of Geographic Protection). This ensures it originated from the specific region. 

You can find mortadella by the slice or in a large log. “When sourcing mortadella, mortadella should be a nice blend of meat versus fat,” says Nicole Bean, owner of Pizaro’s Pizza in Houston, Texas. “Too fatty = less flavor, also reduces quantity in my opinion. I prefer mine without pistachios, but if you want authenticity then you must have pistachios.”

How can you use Mortadella on Pizza?

Lars Smith of State of Mind Public House and Pizzeria in Los Altos, California, has added mortadella to his summer pizza menu and has competed with a pizza featuring mortadella at this year’s Pizza World Championships in Parma, Italy. He says he looks for nice pink color and large pieces of fat within the mortadella. “I love pistachio in the mortadella but that’s not a requirement. Like all meat there are a few companies I know make quality products and I buy my mortadella from them.”

Like other Italian cured meats, mortadella can be used across the menu in appetizers, sandwiches, salads and pastas.

Mortadella has been paired with a variety of ingredients. Cheeses include Pecorino Romano, Burrata, ricotta, Stracciatella and fresh mozzarella. Toppings vary, from pistachio, artichoke and garlic to pesto, arugula and Peruvian peppers. One popular item is a Charcuterie board with other Italian meats. There is also the New Orleans’ original Muffaletta sandwich which includes mortadella, accompanied by Genoa salami, Capicola or ham, marinated olive salad, Swiss cheese and provolone.

Mortadella Cooked or Post-Bake?

For pizzeria application, mortadella is often thin-sliced or cut into cubes. There is a bit of a debate whether to cook mortadella or serve it as a post-baked finishing ingredient. Each perspective has its merit. “For me the only way to apply mortadella is after the pizza is baked,” Smith says. “I like it sliced very thin, that way it sort of melts on to pizza a bit but maintains its flavor and soft texture.”

But Bean hopes to change hearts and minds on heated mortadella. “Cooked mortadella gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling, like when I was little and my mom made me bologna sandwiches for lunch,” she says. “But the crisp edges and tender interiors really drive home the textures of a simple “left over” meat. Especially if cooked in a brick oven, the pistachios take on a roasted flavor that enhance the flavor profile.”

It really comes down to preference and testing the various ways. Mortadella is a versatile pizza topping. Bean incorporated the meat on Pazaro’s menu. “We’ve used it with delicious artichoke and olive blend,” she says. “That’s been my favorite so far, reminds me of New Orleans.”

Smith’s competition pizza and new menu item is his current favorite way to use mortadella. “It features summer squash, red onion and fresh cream. After it is baked I add mortadella and a mint-pistachio pesto.”

Pizza maestro Luke Davis in Charleston, South Carolina uses mortadella. “I think my favorite I’ve done with mortadella was creamy ricotta base, mozzarella, asiago, mortadella and house-made spicy honey,” he says, “very simple but well balanced. You’ve got the creamy/milkiness of the ricotta and mozzarella, sharpness from the Asiago, rich/fattiness of the mortadella, and sweet/spicy from the spicy honey.

Instead of thin slices or cubes, Davis says, “My favorite way to use mortadella is to julienne or battonet. You get a slight crispness on the outside with the middle staying tender and it renders some of the fat, but not as much as if it was thinly sliced. It’s also quicker to evenly distribute on the pizza. I’ve found fatty meats that are sliced thin and cooked on the pizza shrivel up too much and render the fat too quickly making the pizza overly greasy.”

Now that you have your creative culinary juices flowing, here are two basic recipes (one with mortadella as finishing ingredient, the other baked) to expand upon:

 

mortadella, pizza, pistachios, burrata,Mortadella and Pistachio Pizza

https://pizzatoday.com/recipes/pizzas/mortadella-and-pistachio-pizza/

 

Nolo Mortadella Pizza

https://pizzatoday.com/recipes/pizzas/nolo-mortadella-pizza/

 

Denise Greer is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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Summer Pasta: Tis the season https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/summer-pasta-tis-the-season/ Thu, 01 Aug 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/summer-pasta-tis-the-season/ Personally speaking, I tend to gravitate to heavier pasta dishes. I love the richness of a well-done Alfredo. I am a sucker for the smokiness of a good carbonara. I enjoy a pasta laden with all the meats. What can I say? It is just the way my palate is constructed, I suppose. But, despite […]

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seasonal, fresh pasta, recipe, summer vegetables

Personally speaking, I tend to gravitate to heavier pasta dishes. I love the richness of a well-done Alfredo. I am a sucker for the smokiness of a good carbonara. I enjoy a pasta laden with all the meats. What can I say? It is just the way my palate is constructed, I suppose.

But, despite all this, sometimes when the humidity of a Louisville summer hits hard like a layer of wet, heated blankets … I find myself stepping beyond my norm and ordering a light pasta dish brimming with fresh summer vegetables.

Taking a sturdy bucatini and tossing it in olive oil and garlic with roasted summer veggies hits the spot. Not only is it vibrant, it is so darn appealing to both the eye and the taste buds. With the dog days of August now upon us and your local farm markets full of excellent produce, why not tempt your customers with dishes that smack of freshness?

The recipe is simple, yet full of fresh flavor. Give it a try!

Get the Summer of Love Pasta:

https://pizzatoday.com/recipes/entrees/summer-of-love-pasta/

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Craft Soda: Bubbling Up https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/craft-soda-bubbling-up/ Mon, 01 Jul 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/craft-soda-bubbling-up/ What You Need to Know about the Craft Soda Trend What beverages should you offer up alongside your beautifully crisped, fresh-out-of-the-oven pies? While customers used to be content with a modest selection of beer, wine and major soft drink brands, as we know too well, the beverage side of the business has become incredibly complicated. […]

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What You Need to Know about the Craft Soda Trend

craft soda, we the people

What beverages should you offer up alongside your beautifully crisped, fresh-out-of-the-oven pies? While customers used to be content with a modest selection of beer, wine and major soft drink brands, as we know too well, the beverage side of the business has become incredibly complicated.

For starters, we’re witnessing a slow march away from conventional sodas. As USA Today reported in 2017, “Soda consumption in the United States fell to a 31-year low in 2016, according to Beverage-Digest. That decline can mainly be attributed to waning demand among health-conscious consumers.”

Then there’s alcohol. At the bar, where America’s craft beer explosion has caused a huge shake up, get ready for more aftershocks. A 2018 Berenberg survey found members of Generation Z are drinking at least 20 percent less than millennials did at that age. And millennials may be slowing down too.

So what next? One product this younger demographic seems happy to guzzle down is craft soda, and recently, things have ramped up a bit. According to QY Research, in 2018, the global craft soda market was valued at $600 million and expected to reach $890 million in 2025. Notably, restaurant channels are one leading distribution channel here.

For pizza proprietors wanting to cash in, there’s a way to potentially differentiate yourself – and how much fun is it to offer your customers new tastes like, say, pineapple cream?! But there are many unknowns too. How much to invest? How to choose from the myriad of available products? Not to mention a more basic question – what is craft soda exactly?

For advice, we turned to three pizzeria owners serving up craft soda – albeit in strikingly different ways. But first, a definition.

Beyond the basics of carbonation and sweetener, there is actually no formal or legal definition of craft soda. That doesn’t mean there aren’t strong opinions though. According to manufacturer Five Star Soda, “In the craft soda world, if your sweetening agent isn’t cane sugar, you’re basically the devil.” Besides vilifying high-fructose corn syrup, makers tend to feature small-batch processing, fresh ingredients, natural flavors and to reject preservatives like sodium benzoate. (Italian sodas – which despite their name, originated in the U.S. – also fall into this beverage category.) According to marketing expert Brandon Gaille, “What matters most is that they are an alternative to both the traditional soft drink and to alcoholic beverages.”

Next, three pizzerias’ approaches to tap into the craft soda trend.

 

1: Quality ingredients, fresh flavors and big brand support — Oath Pizza, (multiple locations including Boston and Nantucket, Massachusetts)

At Oath Pizza, notably the nation’s first certified-humane pizzeria, marketing manager Tianna Tarquinio links craft soda to the chain’s overall brand vision. “We have all humanely raised meats and fresh food toppings, so from a menu perspective — food quality and that premium upscale style — that is really important to us and we also wanted our beverage program to match that.”

Oath serves a variety of bottled beverages plus Stubborn Soda, PepsiCo’s craft soda line, Tarquinio says. “It’s all free from artificial colors and flavors, it has real cane sugar to sweeten it and the flavors are really unique and cool.” With craft sodas, she says, the added draw is novel flavoring (Stubborn flavors include Black Cherry with Tarragon and Orange Hibiscus). “You’d think that people would lean towards the typical cola flavor…but what we’re seeing is people are gravitating towards the more unique flavors.”

A major brand like Stubborn comes with expected benefits like product consistency, supply chains and marketing support, she adds. “They’re super supportive in terms of getting us any in-store branding or things like that.”

And Oath sees a pretty good profit margin too, Tarquinio adds, charging $2 to $2.50 for a Stubborn Soda from a branded fountain, and $2 to $3 for other bottled craft products. “Everything is a slightly higher price but nothing outrageous. We’re finding that people are willing to pay a little bit of a premium for a higher quality product.”

 

2: Nostalgia, house-made syrups and puns — We, The Pizza, (Locations in Washington, D.C. and Arlington, Virginia)

The popular concept at We, The Pizza involves placing house-made craft sodas front and center. And according to deputy CEO Micheline Mendelsohn, about eight out of 10 customers order the products. “The idea is you walk in, you get your slice of pizza and then we put a show on for the sodas.”

The enhanced experience, says Mendelsohn, rests on some significant investments: an old-school style soda fountain, eight or so house-made syrups made fresh each morning, ingredients sourced from area farms, pun-riddled drink names (“We Heard It Through the Grape Soda”) and little flourishes. “The cherry one gets a maraschino cherry on it, our pineapple one gets a slice of pineapple. We do different things. Yes we’ve invested a lot in it because we wanted to make it a feature.”

Of house-made syrups, she stresses, “I find when you make them yourself it produces an extra flavor.” And the artisanal aspect seems to be paying off. We, The Pizza has received a shoutout in The Washington Post for hipster originality, plus this high praise from a Tasting Table reviewer: “’Don’t Forget Your Ginger Roots’ is like drinkable candy with real ginger heat that obliterates its commercial competition.”

For interested proprietors, Mendelsohn’s advice is to start small — maybe resist investing in the fancy soda fountain at first. “If people are really loving them, then you can expand.”

 

3: Seasonal, small-batch, chef-inspired — Frankly Pizza, Kensington, Maryland

Frank Linn, whose cozy pizza place frequently earns a spot on area “best of” lists and references to house-made soda, noticed the craft soda trend picking up in restaurants since around 2007. He long wanted to make it and now, with his own restaurant his approach is probably best described as “chef-driven,” involving simple tools (steam juicer, carbonator, small soda jerk-style tap) and a seasonal rotation of flavors. Linn might serve anything from guava, blood orange, blackberry mojito and pineapple lemongrass flavors; and says his biggest sellers are simple — vanilla cream and cherry fizz.

While craft sodas make a profit, Linn admits making them is time-consuming. Costs are also higher than for commercial products (35 to 40 cents a soda compared to mere pennies), and require chefs to do initial groundwork, like deciding on a percentage of salt-sugar-juice ratios. “Do your homework, taste everything. As for the business, make sure you’re aiming at a crowd that’s going to accept what you’re making.”

So why do this? Linn’s reasons are chef-inspired. “First of all, I’m trying to provide something unique and different as I am a chef. I believe if you have a restaurant you should make everything.” He also talks about lower sugar counts, better ingredients and intense flavor. “Literally, my wife will go and pick strawberries and I’ll steam them and make strawberry soda.”

Finally, particularly outside of the alcohol beverage category, Linn sees craft soda as the perfect accompaniment for pizza. “I think water’s too bland for pizza, you need something to stand up. Our pizza is super flavorful, it needs something vibrant. So the vibrant flavors of soda really go well with it, you know?”   

Connie Jeske Crane is a Canadian freelance writer.

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Next Level Antipasto https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/next-level-antipasto/ Wed, 26 Jun 2019 18:32:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/next-level-antipasto/ Taking the traditional app from basic to stand out An antipasto is your chance for a wow factor at the beginning of a meal. Eight hundred years ago, in Italy the antipasto was a social starting point for the beginning of a meal. For me, as a kid I thought the word “antipasto” translated to […]

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Taking the traditional app from basic to stand out

antipasto, appetizer

An antipasto is your chance for a wow factor at the beginning of a meal. Eight hundred years ago, in Italy the antipasto was a social starting point for the beginning of a meal. For me, as a kid I thought the word “antipasto” translated to “not pasta” … and technically I was correct. “Anti” meaning “not” and “pasto” sounds like “pasta. ” In reality, any Italian starter is an “antipasto” — but it’s such a broad term that it doesn’t have a lot of boundaries of what clearly defines one as great or impressive. Most base American menus have a caprese or a meat plate to fill this role on the menu. This month, we dive into all things antipasto to see what makes one solid, how to make it yours and how to do so impressively.

Base items that are extremely typical on an antipasto are mozzarella and tomato for your standard caprese, as well as prosciutto and olives with a hard cheese for your standard meat plate antipasto. Even on something that simple, let’s break down the variances.

 

Caprese:

Mozzarella:

– Basic – Ovaline pre-sliced or from a premade ball.

– Next Level – Curd that you stretch and slice in a way that it’s obvious it was not prepared ahead of time.

Tomato:

– Basic – Beefsteak or Roma tomato.

– Next Level – Heirloom tomatoes when in season or some variance of color or any rarer style of tomato.

Everything else:

– Basic – Stopping at just this much effort and adding some EVOO and calling it a day.

– Next Level – At Andolini’s, my pizzeria, we kitchen sink this classic and give it olives, artichokes, sautéed portabellos as well as prosciutto, roasted red peppers that we actually roast in house, as well as pecorino Romano, balsamic and basil.

 

Meat Plate:

Meat:

– Basic – Pre-sliced prosciutto or non-Italian cuts.

– Next Level – Cutting aged Parma prosciutto yourself and also folding it in a floret or something to draw the eye. Use varying styles of salami with different sizes to create contrast and interest.

• Cheese:

– Basic – Precut cubes of anything will look pedestrian.

– Next Level – Going for really eclectic Italian cheeses for an Italian Antipasto is a great win. Varying age of the same type of cheese, like six-month 12-month and 18-month Parmigiano Reggiano for a very impressive experience.

• Everything Else:

– Basic – Anything you have seen before that could be bought from a non-gourmet grocery store.

– Next Level – Put your stamp on it. Build a story to sell, and then sell it. Olives you’ve sourced from Italy, actual Italian Olive Oil, something from your lineage region if you are Italian. Sautéed squash, squash blossoms, broccoli rabe all are great items. For bread, use your pizza dough and fry or bake slices of dough. All of these add color, flavor and individuality to an antipasto.

When it comes to WOW factor plating, your best bet is a plate that stands out on its own as impressive. Large silver circular platters with the items separated into each section are becoming more popular. Simplicity on your classic 10-inch white plate is not going out of style anytime soon. I believe that the butcher board for more charcuterie-esque antipastos is on its way out stylewise. Melamine or plastic plate ware is a big no for showing off an entrée. When the food cost is worth more than the plate, you are upside-down on your presentation.

Take your antipasto very seriously. When executed with care and passion it tells the customer that you are in for something special. When it’s thrown together the assumption is everything else will be as well. For the most part, antipasto items don’t take a lot of prep or execution, more likely than not it’s simply placement of things you love. I hand stretch my mozzarella and roast my red bell peppers, but salami and prosciutto are as easy as picking your favorites. If anything, researching everything on the scene and deciding what excites you is a much better practice than just putting on the plate what you feel you are “expected” to plate.

Along with plating it can’t be underestimated how pivotal an item a solid antipasto can be to your catering program. Not only is it shareable and can be a beautiful centerpiece to a table, if you are serving it cold it can be your cornerstone of drop off hors d’oeuvre style events that pizzas are just not as ideal for. Any non-seating event is easy to sell an antipasto platter to. For us at Andolini’s, we take all the items on our caprese Antipasto and put them on wooden skewers, so they are easily picked up by people mingling and socializing at events where a fork and napkin aren’t as suitable. An investment in some cheapo depot wood skewers can fetch an extra $15 to $20 per platter.

That leads into pricing strategy. I have said before: price according to your ideal food cost, be aware of competition’s pricing, and then make your final decision based on what you believe you can sell it for. A gorgeous, well-plated platter can easily fetch $50 to $75 at events if you sell it properly. For in house dining, your demo and style will determine your price point. If you are apprehensive about the price of the antipasto being too high I suggest making a half size that’s only 30-percent cheaper so you can tell the customer you have a cheaper option but their “best value” is the full antipasto. People don’t like to be price gouged, but they sure do love a bargain … and “best value” achieves that.

When it comes to what to name your antipasto, do something special but go beyond just calling it antipasto. Look for a name that resonates with you and your pizzeria’s style. If you’re a classic Italian rooted establishment, use a name that connotates that. If you are kitschier and/or in-your-face, then come up with something that you would describe to a friend and name it that. “The Best Damn Antipasto You’ve Ever Had Period End Of Sentence” comes to mind as an eye-catching name if that’s the style you have and can pull it off. Again, the headline here is STAND OUT.

Nothing about your antipasto should seek to blend in. Items that blend in are items that don’t get ordered. 

Mike Bausch is the owner of Andolini’s Pizzeria in Tulsa, Oklahoma. He is a frequent speaker at the International Pizza Expo family of tradeshows.

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Man on the Street: “The ABCs of CBD” https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/man-on-the-street-the-abcs-of-cbd/ Sat, 01 Jun 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/man-on-the-street-the-abcs-of-cbd/ The CBD-infused Food Trend According to the National Restaurant Association, the top two dining trends in 2019 are CDB-infused drinks and CDB-infused food. For those unfamiliar with the term, CBD is the abbreviation for cannabidoil, which is a naturally occurring compound found in cannabis plants. I know what you’re thinking – “Wait, is he talking […]

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The CBD-infused Food Trend

According to the National Restaurant Association, the top two dining trends in 2019 are CDB-infused drinks and CDB-infused food. For those unfamiliar with the term, CBD is the abbreviation for cannabidoil, which is a naturally occurring compound found in cannabis plants. I know what you’re thinking – “Wait, is he talking about MARIJUANA!?” Not exactly. While sourced from the same plant family, CBD and marijuana are not the same product (but their relationship certainly is part of the allure of this trendy ingredient).

Scott Wiener Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

Scott Wiener
Founder, Scott’s Pizza Tours and SliceOutHunger.org

When you see CBD on a menu, it probably means the restaurant is adding a few drops of CBD oil, an extract from cannabis plants. It adds very little flavor, if any, but taste is certainly not why people are getting excited about it. There’s an obvious buzz about this kind of thing because it feels edgy and exciting, but only because of CBD’s link to marijuana. Regardless of that connection, CBD will not get you high. The part of marijuana that effects perception is THC, which is not found to high degrees in CBD products. Companies that manufacture CBD oil insist on its health benefits, such as anxiety and migraine relief, but no strong evidence currently exists for medical applications.

In fact, the FDA has yet to approve any CBD product besides an epilepsy drug called Epidiolex. All the CBD oils being added to food and drinks are therefore unregulated and that means their contents are unconfirmed. Recent studies have found that some products contain less CBD than their labels claim, if any at all. Others have higher CBD levels than claimed. Until the FDA starts regulating CBD, it’s going to be very difficult to weed out the imposters. According to federal law, CBD derived from hemp plants (not marijuana plants) is legal in many states as long as it contains less than 0.3-percent THC. It also has to abide by state regulations and be produced in a licensed facility.

While CBD doesn’t have a strong natural flavor, several companies offer oils that taste like cotton candy, strawberry, peppermint, and the like. Those probably won’t make their way onto your pizza; they do get use in drinks and desserts. There are only two reasons I can see to offer CBD-infused pizzas. The perception that ingestion will result in a physical reaction is extremely appealing so I can see why a pizzeria might play off that. Every article I’ve seen about CBD-infused food makes ample use of marijuana puns, only adding to misperception. The only other benefit is high profit margin. Unflavored oil costs about 15 cents per milligram and a typical CBD upgrade adds $7 to $10 to the price of a pizza. That’s a pretty good profit margin for a few hits.

I’m actually surprised it’s such a highly anticipated trend because I’ve only seen it offered in college towns and other locations that trade on the marijuana connection. I think this is going to be a quick fad and will be a distant memory within the next few years as marijuana, the product that DOES have psychoactive effects, moves toward legalization.

Scott Wiener is the founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours in New York City and SliceOutHunger.org.

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Pork Project https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/pork-project-2/ Sat, 01 Jun 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/pork-project-2/ Sausage combos never go out of style A staple of your pizza protein offerings, sausage is one of the undisputed customer topping favorites. Second only to pepperoni on a national scale, it’s a flavorful option you simply cannot go without. A historically favorite combination — sausage and mushroom — will never go out of style. […]

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Sausage combos never go out of style

sausage combos, pizza

A staple of your pizza protein offerings, sausage is one of the undisputed customer topping favorites. Second only to pepperoni on a national scale, it’s a flavorful option you simply cannot go without. A historically favorite combination — sausage and mushroom — will never go out of style. Building on the classic as inspiration, here are some other sausage combos we  really love (and think your customers will, too).

sausage stuffed mushroomsPearl Onions — A mixture of white, yellow and red pearl onions sautéed simply with olive oil and salt make a great partner to sausage-based pizzas. You can also add a balsamic glaze and bacon (or guanciale) to these beauties for a nice twist that doesn’t stray too far from the mainstream.

Peppers — It goes without saying that green, red and/or yellow bell peppers are ideal for pairing with sausage. For those who love heat, jalapeños, serranos and habañero peppers fit like a charm as well.

Cream Sauce — While red pizzas are king, sausage lends itself well to cream-based sauces. These sauces can incorporate dill and fennel for added flavor, or offer a cool/spicy counterpunch by mixing a base of cream cheese with jalepeño, for example.

Be sure to use a variety of sausages and don’t just limit your offerings. While a crumbled base is great for most pizzas and items like Stromboli or calzones, link sausage has its place, as does chorizo, andouille, salami, etc.

 

Try these two recipes:

Pig Pearls

Jalapeño & Cream Cheese Stuffed Mushrooms with Sausage

 

Jeremy WHite  is Editor-in-Chief of Pizza Today.

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Pizza Toppings: Egg-cellent https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/pizza-toppings-egg-cellent/ Sat, 01 Jun 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/pizza-toppings-egg-cellent/ Eggs on Pizza Egg takes rightful spot on the pizza menu Last month, through trial and error — we were able to successfully cook eggs directly on a pizza in the Pizza Today Test Kitchen. It was a feat and the challenge of it triggered a quest to find out more about eggs as a […]

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Eggs on Pizza

Egg takes rightful spot on the pizza menu

poached egg pizza, wild mushrooms

Last month, through trial and error — we were able to successfully cook eggs directly on a pizza in the Pizza Today Test Kitchen. It was a feat and the challenge of it triggered a quest to find out more about eggs as a pizza topping.

The nutrient-dense protein is popping up on pizza menus across the country, from the small mom and pops to upscale artisan restaurants, and with good reason. In America, we love eggs. In fact, the U.S. consumption was estimated at 278.8 eggs per person in 2018, according to the American Egg Board. That’s a lot of eggs.

In pizza’s long history, egg as a topping is a relatively new choice. It turns out the origin has been challenging to track down. Around the world, egg on pizza is a mainstay ingredient rather than a delicacy. Let’s explore a few ways eggs are being used on pizza:

  • “Zanzibar Pizza,” a street food filled with minced beef, onion and an egg is commonly served in Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania.
  • Portuguese Pizza is a popular pie in Brazil and features sliced hardboiled egg with ham, onion and olives.
  • The Italian Pizza capricciosa has a beloved version with artichoke hearts, olive oil, olives, basil and finished with an egg.
  • Poached egg has become a welcomed addition to Pizza Florentine with spinach, ricotta and mushrooms.
  • Fried egg is a favorite pizza topping in France.

Americans’ acceptance of unique pizza toppings likely traces back to the introduction of the California-style pizza in the early 1980s. The idea of putting chicken, egg, avocado or goat cheese on a pizza became hip and hasn’t wavered.

There are dozens of ways to cook an egg. We’re going to focus three methods that can be duplicated in any pizza kitchen. They are:

  • scrambled eggs and bacon pizza, sriracha, avocado, square pieScrambled as a base or topping. This may be the easiest way to introduce eggs onto your menu. Scrambled eggs can be precooked and placed on the makeline. In the Pizza Today Test Kitchen, we found if you scramble the eggs with ingredients like whole milk or ricotta, the eggs will have a wetter consistency to prevent overcooking them in the oven. There is nothing worse than rubbery, dry eggs on a pizza.
  • Cracked on a pizza while baking. This method requires testing, a lot of testing. In an instructional video series, Los Angeles chef Vito Iacopelli at Provami shared how to cook an egg on a pizza in a wood-fired dome oven. After stretching and topping the pizza, the egg is cracked directly onto the pizza. He placed the pizza closer to the mouth of the oven to cook slightly slower than other Neapolitan pies. In the test kitchen on a deck oven at 500 degrees, our method was different. The best result came from par-baking the pizza for three to four minutes then adding the cracked egg and cooking for an additional six to seven minutes until the white is set and yolk is still soft.
  • poached egg, pizza, arugula, wild mushrooms, ricotta, brunch pizzaEggs applied post bake. This is the method that allows the most versatility in the ways you can prepare the egg. You can simply fry an egg over easy and place it atop a hot pizza and serve. Another approach is to poach the eggs and place on the pizza. Poaching was the preferred method in the Pizza Today Test Kitchen. It allowed us to control the outcome and have a vivid white with a bright yellow yolk. We opened the yolk with a knife to run on the pizza to give it a beautiful presentation. When poaching an egg, if the white separates when dropped into the boiling water, add a tablespoon or two of vinegar. If you are looking for a perfect egg with a runny yolk, you can use a mold during poaching or try the sous vide technique. It requires a water bath with an immersion circulator (temperature ranging from 145 F to 170 F) and time to bring eggs to desired doneness. Sous vide eggs provide a jaw-dropping presentation.

I reached out to Peter Reinhart, chef and baking instructor at Johnson & Wales University and co-founder of PizzaQuest.com, about our egg pizza quest. The first time he says he encountered eggs on a pizza was about 15 years ago at Roberta’s in Brooklyn, New York.

We asked Reinhart for tips on the three methods. “None of these methods are very complicated,” he says. “Scrambled are easy because they can be added like any other topping ingredient, prior to the bake (the cheese and sauce protects it); cracked, uncooked eggs can usually go on at about the halfway point (though the timing
depends on the type of pizza and oven temp, but a few test bakes should determine the ideal moment of application); sous vide or prebaked eggs are already at the ideal stage so they need to go on top only for the final 30 to 60 seconds, so as to heat but not overcook the yolks. If you have the ability and wherewithal to sous vide the eggs then the final application on top of the pizza is the easy part.”

Reinhart offers a few more helpful tips for a perfect egg on pizza. “I like to gently pre-crack the egg into a cup or bowl so that it’s ready to apply without trying to crack the egg directly over the pizza,” he says. “It also minimizes the possibility of breaking the yolk. The key is to have a runny yolk but fully cooked white. Doming the pizza for a few seconds may be necessary depending, again, on the oven temp. If using scrambled eggs, you can also mix them with some savory sauce, like sriracha or harissa to enhance their flavor.”

Once you figure out how you are going to cook eggs, include egg as an add-on item to your protein list. Depending on your market, you may charge $2 to upwards of $5. If you go through the effort to source organic, free-range, local eggs from a nearby farm, let your customers know that. If egg as a pizza topping is new to your clientele, you may need to specify cooking method. If they are thinking scrambled and the pizza arrives with an egg sunny-side up, it may lead to pies being sent back to the kitchen.

With so many ways to prepare eggs and use across a menu, the egg is an ideal ingredient to test new methods in your kitchen. 

 

Try two pizzas created in the Pizza Today Test kitchen:

Poached Egg and Wild Mushroom Pizza

Sriracha-Cha-Cha Scrambled Eggs and Bacon Pizza

 

Denise Greer is Executive Editor of Pizza Today.

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Ravioli Filling: In Between the Sheets https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/ravioli-filling-in-between-the-sheets/ Wed, 01 May 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/ravioli-filling-in-between-the-sheets/ Ravioli’s roots run deep in Italian history and it is one of those iconic foods that was born out of necessity and even poverty. This stuffed pasta was first mentioned in a 14th century manuscript with a recipe of fresh cheese, egg and fresh herbs. In Tuscany, the tortelli historically refers to stuffed pasta like […]

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Leek-a-Choke Ravioli, scratch ravioli pasta

Leek-a-Choke Ravioli

Ravioli’s roots run deep in Italian history and it is one of those iconic foods that was born out of necessity and even poverty. This stuffed pasta was first mentioned in a 14th century manuscript with a recipe of fresh cheese, egg and fresh herbs. In Tuscany, the tortelli historically refers to stuffed pasta like ravioli but more to the shape that resembles the breast of small birds (tordi). The cooks of the great Genovese fleet were said to prepare ravioli when proteins on board the ships ran low.

Ravioli’s exact shape and name vary as much of this stuffed dumpling has been around.  Variations of ravioli can be found with the Chinese won ton, the Russian Pel’ meni, the Tibetan Momo, the Indian Gujiya and the Jewish Kreplachs. The Sicilian and Maltese Ravjul were stuffed with “irkotta” cheese and are earlier versions of ravioli than the northern Italian stuffed pastas. In Le Marche, the ravioli is simply stuffed with ricotta, parsley and nutmeg and paired with sole from the Adriatic.

Filled Pasta

The first ravioli were believed to be served only in a brodo or broth, and variations of this theme can still be found with the diminutive Tortellini in Brodo, which is the signature dish of Bologna. The Agnolotti finds its history when the Marquis of Monferrato asked his chef, Angelot, to prepare a feast after a victory. The chef prepared filled pasta with cooked meat and served it with a simple dressing of meat juices and melted butter. The Casonsei dates back to the 14th century in the Brescia region of Lombardy and northern Veneto. This Renaissance name translates to “small caskets” and are half-moon shapes and contained cinnamon and almonds, but now are made with sausage, milk-dipped bread and Parmigiano.

Here are some other shapes and their fillings: (Variations depend upon the chef and his/her traditional or non-traditional path to flavor and texture.)

  • Ravioli alla Panchetta E Patate (with bacon and potatoes) served with the reserved bacon fat and sprinkled with fontina.
  • Ravioli con Asparagi alla Parmigiana stuffed with egg yolk ricotta, Parmigiano and the tips of asparagus.
  • Caramelle stuffed with ricotta, stacchino, cream cheese, Parmigiano, nutmeg and sauced with melted butter and black truffle.
  • Tortelli di Fagioli stuffed with beans, sage, breadcrumbs, Parmigiano and served with tomato sauce.
  • Mezza Luna stuffed with eggplant, scamorza, lemon zest and sauced with tomato.
  • Raviolini stuffed with chicken, fennel pollen, celery, fennel and onion (Flour and Water, San Francisco).
  • Fagottini di San Daniele “little packages” with prosciutto, egg, chicken, nutmeg and Parmigiano.

Some other traditional ravioli stuffing are potato, fresh cheese, herbs and beaten eggs, boiled chicken, ricotta and lemon rind, nutmeg, black pepper, spinach, polenta, pork, veal, lamb, corn, sweetbreads, prosciutto, basil, pancetta, beans, artichoke, lardo, eggplant and chicken livers.

Leek-a-Choke Ravioli

This is a fabulous “go-to” filling both for our famous fougasse breads but also for ravioli. I’ve always loved lemon cream with Parmigiano and this combination of both is decadent and bright at the same time.

Get the Leek-a-Choke Ravioli recipe.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Asparagus: Bring the Spring https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/asparagus-bring-the-spring/ Mon, 01 Apr 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/asparagus-bring-the-spring/ The season’s mascot readies for pizza menu After a long winter, asparagus is one of the first signs of spring, a preview of the bounty of fresh produce that is beginning to come available. Its season varies around the country and typically ranges from February to June, with April being peak asparagus month. Those gorgeous […]

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egg and asparagus pizza, recipe

The season’s mascot readies for pizza menu

After a long winter, asparagus is one of the first signs of spring, a preview of the bounty of fresh produce that is beginning to come available. Its season varies around the country and typically ranges from February to June, with April being peak asparagus month.

Those gorgeous spears have a unique flavor that is bright, clean and a bit earthy. It’s a versatile vegetable well-deserving of a spot on your menu in salads, pastas and as a pizza topping. You do not have to settle for the green variety, either. Although more challenging to source, white and purple bunches can make a beautiful presentation and generally have a milder flavor.

Asparagus pairs well with proteins like bacon, prosciutto, pancetta, chicken and egg. Lemon and garlic are a perfect accompaniment to asparagus. Herbs like tarragon, chives, dill and rosemary can stand up to the strong flavor of asparagus.

There is a wide selection of cheeses to pair with asparagus. You can go mild with mozzarella, fresh mozzarella, ricotta, fontina or burrata. Add a bold complement like Parmesan, Pecorino, bleu cheese or goat cheese. 

When inspecting your produce delivery, fresh asparagus bunches should be vibrant green with dark green or purple-tinged tips. Stalks should be firm. If it’s bitter, sour or has lost its snap, the asparagus is past its prime.

  Bunches should be stored in the coolest part of your refrigerator, away from the walk-in door. Shelf life is normally three to four days when stored properly.

Asparagus may be used in their original long spear form or cut stalks into one- or two-inch pieces. Be sure to trim off the woody ends. One of the best methods for pizza is to shave the stalks length-wise with a peeler. The ribbons present beautifully.   

In addition to using asparagus raw, it can be prepared in a number of ways — blanched, steamed, sautéed or roasted. However, it is easy to overcook and end up a soggy mess. It’s better to have a little crunch than mush. 

 

Asparagus Three Ways:

Try out the following pasta, salad and pizza recipes that make asparagus shine.

  1. Spring Lemon Garlic Penne
    The season calls for a light, flavorful and fresh pasta. This is a super simple pasta that can be made to order.
    Get the Spring Lemon Garlic Penne recipe.
  2. Asparagus and Potato Niçoise Salad
    While this salad may be French in origin, it has become popular on American menus. Traditionally, it’s made with tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, Niçoise olives, anchovies and olive oil. There are several variations. Some include green beans and potatoes. This is the perfect recipe to substitute the green beans for asparagus spears. Allow customers to add on grilled salmon or tuna.
    Get the Asparagus and Potato Niçoise Salad recipe.
  3. Shaved Asparagus and Egg Pizza
    Egg and asparagus go so well together that this breakfast-style pizza can be served all day long. For extra panache, roast the asparagus tips with olive oil, salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon and then sprinkled around the pizza. You can go heavy on the shaved asparagus so that you create the perfect nest for the egg to sit in.
    Get the Shaved Asparagus and Egg Pizza recipe.


Denise Greer 
is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

 

 

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Gouda Vibrations https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/gouda-vibrations/ Mon, 01 Apr 2019 04:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/gouda-vibrations/ Give the cheese a go for a new twist Gouda is a town in the Netherlands that makes one of the world’s most versatile cheeses. It has been produced since the sixth century. In the 13th century, it was imported to England. When young, this cheese has been said to be one of the most […]

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gouda calzone

Give the cheese a go for a new twist

Gouda is a town in the Netherlands that makes one of the world’s most versatile cheeses. It has been produced since the sixth century. In the 13th century, it was imported to England. When young, this cheese has been said to be one of the most unexciting cheeses imaginable. But as Gouda ages, its slightly salty personality gives way to more complexity. At seven months, it becomes a Belegenkaas, meaning “young cheese,” with its smooth mouth-feel and gentle, nutty flavor. After two years, Gouda is transformed into a denser flavor miracle with hints of crunchy crystallization. Aged Gouda, or oude kass (meaning “old”) is like the Dutch themselves: formal on the outside with a rockin’ house party on the inside. When you chew on a dense piece of this amber-colored cheese, the nutty fruit flavor with butterscotch and toffee will rock your world. This hard cheese is perfect for grating and is just one of the many kinds of Gouda to offer your customers.

The Dutch have always been portrayed as composed and dignified. The paintings of Rembrandt show this well-fed populace as happy and straight-laced, but there has always been a wild flip-side to this country. The Dutch of Rembrandt’s time said prayers and read from the bible before each banquet, but afterwards enjoyed a long night of crazy drinking and dancing. These parties got so bad that in 1665 the Amsterdam police observed as much as fifty different dishes being served at such festivities with “shouting out toasts, arm in arm, smashing glasses…” They eventually clamped down on the number of courses served to quell disturbances. Luckily, one of these courses wasn’t a cheese course with Gouda.

Most Goudas come in the form of wheels that range between six to 50 pounds. Gouda represents 60 to
65 percent of cheese production in Holland. Most Gouda is now factory made and is coated in red wax, which extends its longevity. Orange wax signifies that the Gouda is flavored with cumin, and green wax indicates an addition of herbs. Black wax, meanwhile, indicates an aged Gouda of at least 12 months (and up to five or six years).

Aged Gouda may lead some cheese novices to recoil at the strength of its strong flavor. But as the milk proteins crystallize into a drier, harder texture, it becomes perfect for grating and sauces because it adds sweet butterscotch and toffee notes to dishes. Aged Gouda is not recommended with pasta, but is more in-tune with potato dishes.

I use locally made Gouda on my spinach and mushroom pies and schiacciatas.

For all of Gouda’s great taste, the melt produces a more hydrated and less structured liquid than mozzarella or provolone. This is the same problem I’ve had with French Brie, which melts like butter. The Gouda melt can be problematic with enclosed pizza products like calzones (and especially stromboli). This melting cheese finds any small cracks in under-crimped and mis-sealed pizza products. Stromboli made with Gouda don’t keep their original bulky roll shape because the liquid cheese flattens into the bottom, leaving a hollow air-gap between toppings and top dough. Smoked Gouda also presents problems, especially in conveyor ovens with forced heat. The cheese just sits there like a burnt hockey puck. The solution to all these Gouda issues is manipulating time and temperature. Putting Gouda on top of pizzas midway through the bake or bulking calzones and Stromboli with mozzarella are key. Shaving smoked Gouda and placing underneath a more heat-tolerant cheese produces a great melt and taste.

Here’s a wonderful calzone recipe that contains three types of oozing cheese, along with salami, spinach and mushrooms. The mozzarella keeps the structure of this calzone.

Get the Gouda Calzone recipe.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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Pasta La Vista Baby https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/pasta-la-vista-baby-2/ Fri, 01 Mar 2019 17:00:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/pasta-la-vista-baby-2/ Customized pasta at the ready Today’s consumers want what they want when they want it. Your offerings can match your customers’ desire for customizable pasta dishes that arrive to the table fast. Go with a build-to-order pasta bowl or create delicious add-ins for your current pasta dishes. Fully-customized pasta lines may resemble your pizza makeline […]

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customized pasta bowl

Customized pasta at the ready

Today’s consumers want what they want when they want it. Your offerings can match your customers’ desire for customizable pasta dishes that arrive to the table fast. Go with a build-to-order pasta bowl or create delicious add-ins for your current pasta dishes.

Fully-customized pasta lines may resemble your pizza makeline with noodles, sauces and plenty of fresh and prepared ingredients that customers can choose from. Pasta choices are abundant, from classic spaghetti, angel hair and linguine to more adventurous shapes, like Orecchiette, stelline and campanelle.

Provide traditional sauce options like marinara, meat sauce, alfredo and pesto. Consider adding a few of the following bold sauces: spicy Diavolo, balsamic, Gorgonzola, pomodora, vodka, carbonara Puttanesca, mushroom or herb-infused oils.

Veggie, cheese and protein combinations are endless. Find ways to create unique pasta suggestions based on ingredients already on your pizza line.

Don’t forget the ever-popular mac and cheese. Gourmet mac and cheese is hot. Mac and cheese add-ins, like mushrooms, pancetta, Parmesan and arugula become a featured pasta. Or make it BBQ mac and cheese with bacon, BBQ sauce, green onion, jalapeños and pepper jack.

You don’t have to rip up your kitchen prep stations to add customization to your pasta menu. Adapting your pasta menu for customization may be easier than you think and can increase check averages.

Milton’s Pizza and Pasta in Raleigh, North Carolina, and Venezia’s NY Style Pizzeria in Phoenix, Arizona, have built customization into their pasta dishes.

Montanile says about half of the pasta dishes ordered at Venezia’s are customized.

We get a good majority of customers that order meatballs with their pasta,” Montanile says. “We make our own recipe so it is definitely a crowd pleaser. I think it is a great upsell to customize pasta options. We offer our marinara sauce or pesto sauce for our pasta. We offer grilled mushrooms, Italian sausage, extra cheese and meatballs.”

Spaghetti on Milton’s menu is accompanied by suggested additions, like meatballs, melted cheese, meat sauce, sautéed mushrooms, Italian rope sausage and pepperoni. Milton’s baked Mac-N-Cheese is also priced with bacon and crab add-ins.

If cooking fresh pasta in minutes isn’t part of your pasta procedures, there are a few considerations when using prepped pasta. Cook pasta. When al dente, let it cool thoroughly by running it under cold water. Massage with olive oil. Portion it and refrigerate. Submerge the pasta in boiling water per order or heat with sauce and mix-in ingredients in a sauté pan.

Janik and Montanile have some pasta prep advice.

“It is important not to overcook the pasta when you prep it,” Montanile says. “It should still have a slight bite so that when you drop it in the pot when you have an order it does not get too mushy and soft. ”

Janik says, “Fresh fresh fresh ingredients…handle the pasta with love. Don’t over cook or over stir.”

The key to pasta quality is portion control and consistency with your procedures, Janik says. “We do precook the pasta very carefully,” he says. “Al dente, plenty of
water, don’t over stir, rapid cool in ice bath to get temp to 41 F then put in cooler. We do pre-portion in cheap sandwich bags to ensure consistency.”

Some pasta dishes are a bit more intensive. “The biggest challenges when offering pasta is prep time, especially for an item such as lasagna, which we serve,” Montanile says. “It is a very time-consuming process that has to be baked in advance to produce trays of it to portion up and sell.

Denise Greer is executive editor at Pizza Today.

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Finishing Greens: Photo Finish with Micro greens on Pizza https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/finishing-greens-photo-finish/ Fri, 01 Mar 2019 14:34:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/finishing-greens-photo-finish/ Post-bake herbs and greens, especially micro greens on pizza give wow factor, flavor Basil, with its sweet, aromatic flavor, reigns supreme as the top fresh finishing ingredient. Baby basil is the go-to ingredient for Chris Decker at Metro Pizza in Las Vegas. But it’s not the only topping to take its dominate place post bake […]

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Post-bake herbs and greens, especially micro greens on pizza give wow factor, flavor

Basil, with its sweet, aromatic flavor, reigns supreme as the top fresh finishing ingredient. Baby basil is the go-to ingredient for Chris Decker at Metro Pizza in Las Vegas. But it’s not the only topping to take its dominate place post bake for the pizza champion. Don’t overlook other greens and herbs that may be exactly what a pizza needs. Explore micro greens on pizza.   

Here are some categories and ingredients to finish your specialty pizzas:

  • Lettuces. Arugula, Romaine, endive, radicchio, escarole, cress and cabbage are a few greens to experiment with in your kitchen. You can use a blend of salad greens on a white pie. Greens can even be tossed with lemon juice, balsamic or chili oil for an extra punch. Arugula is a post-bake favorite for many pizza makers with its crisp, lightly spicy, peppery flavor. It’s often paired with a salty pork pizza or a fresh vegetarian white pizza. “Arugula, I really like with soppressata or a nice runny egg,” Decker says.
  • Herbs. Basil, cilantro, sage, fennel, oregano, thyme, rosemary, parsley, chives, dill and leeks can hit the senses when sprinkled atop a pizza before serving. A little goes a long way when using herbs. Remove leaves from stems. Use smaller leaves whole, like dill and fennel fronds. With larger leaves, try tearing, fine chop or chiffonade. Cilantro pairs perfectly with a Mexican, southwestern or barbecue pizza. Rosemary, chives or dill enhance a potato pizza. “Fennel fronds go great with this roasted cauliflower, fennel & pancetta pizza I do,” Decker says.
  • Blossoms. Cucumber, zucchini, squash blossoms and even edible flowers add vibrant colors you typically don’t see featured on a pizza. A local eco farm near Las Vegas turned Decker on to cucumber blossoms. “They’re great and super fresh tasting,” Decker says, “bright, beautiful yellow bell shaped blossom that’s just packed with flavor. I love the pop of color it gives to a white base pizza. I slow simmer zucchini in heavy cream and use it as a base for my blossom pizza.” Blossoms can be grilled or roasted. They tend to be delicate, so take extra care when handling and storing.

 

Honey, I Shrunk the Greens

Micro greens are a trend that is catching on fast. Customers love them for their zip of flavor and nutritional value. The U.S. Department of Agriculture has studied the tiny powerhouses and found that the 25 varieties tested had vitamin levels up to five time greater, on average, than their mature counterpart. 

“I have switched all my herbs to micro,” says Alexandra Hoffman, who is in process of moving Maxx Pizza Co. in Murrieta, California. “It adds color to the pizza, and the aroma that comes from them when topped on a hot pizza is great.

“The storage for micro greens are super easy,” Hoffman says. “They come all clean and packaged in a plastic container. Depending on the style of greens the sizes will vary. They need to stay cold so they don’t wilt. Depending on how fast you use them they can typically last up to two weeks.”

Decker also has featured micro greens like micro arugula and pea shoots. “Micro arugula is probably my favorite over the baby leaves or the wild,” Chris Decker says.

Remember: finish greens and herbs will be the first thing customers see on a pizza. “First and foremost, freshness is key,” Decker says. “No one wants to see wilted or dried out greens. Storage can be tricky, especially in the middle of the desert with no humidity and all this heat.”

There are a few other pro tips on using finishing greens and herbs. Be sure the greens are completely dry. There’s nothing worse than soggy greens on a pizza. Cut the pizza before you apply the greens to avoid half of them ending up on the cutter. Drizzle any finishing sauces over greens. Some operators even send the greens in a bag for delivery and to-go orders for customers to add when serving to ensure freshness.

To bring out the flavor of the herbs, you may want to use mild cheeses like mozzarella, provolone or Gruyere. You could even add fresh mozzarella or burrata to finish with your selected greens. Or, add bold contrasts like bleu cheese, Asiago or goat cheese.

Here are two recipes that feature finishing micro greens and herbs to get you started. 

Get the Sausage and Herb Pizza Recipe: 

Sausage and Sage Pizza

 

Get the Micro Arugula and Portobello Pizza Recipe:

Micro Arugula and Portobello Pizza

 

DENISE GREER is executive editor at Pizza Today.

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Motor City Pizza https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/motor-city-pizza/ Fri, 01 Mar 2019 13:59:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/motor-city-pizza/ How to do Detroit-style pies in your shop In the past couple of issues I’ve described my lifetime love of pizza and the value pizza has brought to me and my family’s life. While I have experimented with making many pizzas, Detroit-style pizza has become my hallmark. Not only does this style connect me back […]

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How to do Detroit-style pies in your shop

In the past couple of issues I’ve described my lifetime love of pizza and the value pizza has brought to me and my family’s life. While I have experimented with making many pizzas, Detroit-style pizza has become my hallmark. Not only does this style connect me back to my Detroit roots, I also think it has a superior taste.

Buddy’s Pizza

Over the last eight years I have tinkered with how I make the style. Here are five basic principles that have constantly guided my overall approach:

  1. The Pan
  2. Hydration of the dough
  3. Choice and temperature of the oven
  4. Pizza sauce on top (aka “red top”)
  5. Caramelized cheese

The namesake of one of my restaurants, Blue Pan Pizza, is derived from the original pan used to make Detroit-style pizza. The “blue steel pan” was originally used in automobile repairs because of its ability to withstand extremely high heat.  Blue steel’s ability to endure high temperatures also made it the perfect solution for baking Detroit-style pizza.

When making your Detroit-style pizza, ideally, one should use the original 8- by 10-inch or 10- by 14-inch blue steel pan. However, in recent years, finding an authentic blue steel pan has become somewhat difficult. There are new pan types that have the same quality and durability of the blue steel pan. Additionally, these pans use metals that are a little safer for washing.

When thinking about which pan to use, consider not only the cost of the pans, but also your audience. For example, consider whether or not the goal is to make small personal pizzas or large pizzas.

Most important in choosing pans is being consistent with the pan you decide to use. Stick with the same manufacturer. Changes in the pan, because of the metals used, will affect the temperature used for baking and fermentation of dough. Consistency is key!

The most critical aspect of dough is ensuring the hydration is spot-on. Dough hydration is based on baker’s percentages. Typically, the dough hydration for Detroit-style pizza ranges from 60 to 70 percent.

The original Detroit-style pizza operators, dating back to 1946, will go to their graves (or have already gone) saying the best and only way make dough is utilizing the raw bake method.

I consider myself a pizza purest, so I respect both methods of baking Detroit-style pizza dough.   

The raw bake process starts with allowing the dough to rise and ferment in the pan for a certain amount of time. The amount of time is all dependent on your climate. Summers in Detroit are hot and humid (around 88-percent humidity), which accelerates the fermentation process (along with keeping the dough hydrated). However, I live in Denver and Telluride, Colorado.  Summers in Denver are hot and dry (20-percent humidity). During the fermentation process, we need to cover every Detroit-style pizza because the dough will dry out (form a skin) almost instantly.  After the fermentation process is complete, it is now time to cheese and top your pizza. But be careful as the fermented dough is very delicate.

The beginning of the par bake is the same as the raw bake.  After your dough has fermented in the pan, it is now time to par-bake. My goal in par-baking is to bake the dough to roughly 70 percent of the finished product. This method of par baking helps to create a solid structure that will in turn help to withstand the weight of the cheese, toppings and sauce.

At Blue Pan and Brown Dog Pizza we do all of our par bakes in the morning before we open for lunch. During busy times we will have to do a second round of par bakes after lunch for dinner service.

Looking at your baked pie, the bottom of the crust should be a gorgeous, spotted, golden-brown. The interior “crumb” should look like a loosely woven spider web.

Also like a spider web, when one picks up a slice of Detroit-style pizza it should seem light like a feather. Nonetheless, the structural integrity is strong despite its lightness. After picking up a slice it should remain level and not sag.

Biting into the pizza, there should be a nice crunch from the bottom, which should flow directly into a soft “pillowy” taste. The taste of the crust should ultimately remind the eater of warm, freshly baked bread that is slightly sweet.

Detroit-style pizza can be baked in any oven. Deck ovens were the original oven used to bake them. However, some of the most famous pizzerias currently utilize conveyor ovens.

I have also seen some pizzerias use wood-fired ovens to bake Detroit-style pizza. I have even enjoyed a tasty Detroit-style pie prepared in a convection oven (and even at home in a conventional oven).

Ultimately, use whatever oven you are currently operating. There is no need to go buy a new oven to experiment with Detroit-style pizza.

I use the deck ovens because I like the consistency of the pizza. I also like that I can control the bake of the pizza. I can rotate it, move it to “hot spots”, and I can leave it in as short or as long as I want.

Typically, Detroit-style pizza requires a higher temperature than New York or Chicago pizza. The standard is at least 550 F or higher.

For par-baked pizzas, use a lower temperature for the par bake (450 F- 550 F), then increase the temperature for the final bake (550 F-650 F).  Raw baked pizzas most often use a lower temperature (550 F-600 F).

When growing up, my grandmother would always say, “it’s in the sauce.” She was partly right.

For Detroit-style pizza, the real statement, rather the real question, should be: where does the sauce go?

While some pizzerias put their sauce under the cheese, the original placement of sauce for Detroit-style pizza is putting two strips of sauce, evenly spaced, on top of the cheese.

The next question is when should the sauce be applied?

The sauce is usually applied before the final bake for par-baked pies. Although gaining recent popularity is the technique of applying pizza sauce after the final bake (raw bake or par bake). Most of the older operators in Detroit will apply their pizza sauce before a raw bake. If applying after the final bake, make sure your pizza sauce is in a hot holding container of 135 F or above.

Sauce is a heavy ingredient for the pie. When you apply the sauce, it should be based on the strength of the dough.

Unlike previous guidance, the right amount of sauce will be vital to baking a great Detroit-style pizza.

People don’t know it, but they LOVE caramelized cheese. In fact, caramelized cheese is what made me a pizza enthusiast.

The great thing about caramelized cheese is that it can be done with many different types of cheese. Brick cheese is original to Detroit-style pizza. However, mozzarella, aged white cheddar and muenster cheeses are all used to great effect as well.

Aged white cheddar and brick cheeses are good to use around the edge because it caramelizes into a perfect, crispy, buttery crust. (Please be cautious when using Mozzarella as it burns quickly at high temperature.)

When applying the cheese, put 70 percent of the cheese around the edge and corners, then place the remaining 30 percent in the middle. As the pizza bakes, the cheese will slide to the middle because of the fats in the cheese.

Get Smoke’s Detroit-Style Dough Recipe (makes 4, 8×10 DSP)

 

Jeff Smokevitch co-founded and currently operates Brown Dog Pizza and Blue Pan Pizza in Denver, Colorado.

 

Read Jeff Smokevitch’s Detroit-style Part I and II:

https://pizzatoday.com/departments/in-the-kitchen/motor-city-memories/

 

https://pizzatoday.com/departments/in-the-kitchen/detroit-style-pizza-as-a-career/

 

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Knead to Know: Help! Emergency! https://pizzatoday.com/topics/menu-development/knead-to-know-help-emergency/ Fri, 01 Mar 2019 05:01:00 +0000 https://pizzatoday.com/departments/knead-to-know-help-emergency/ Emergency Dough You need dough NOW — what do you do? Have you ever had one of those nights where a storm kept you awake? Then, after getting a few hours of sleep you go to your store to open and find that your dough has blown courtesy of a power outage. It’s a nightmare […]

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Emergency Dough

You need dough NOW — what do you do?

Have you ever had one of those nights where a storm kept you awake? Then, after getting a few hours of sleep you go to your store to open and find that your dough has blown courtesy of a power outage. It’s a nightmare come true, and panicking is usually the first reaction. But you can’t really tell customers you’re closed (at least you shouldn’t) when lunchtime rolls around, because that doesn’t pay the bills.

So, what do you do? You enter the world of emergency dough.

Tom Lehmann
Pizza Today Resident Dough Expert

Every shop should have an emergency dough formula and procedure tucked away for these not-so-special moments. I like to make my emergency dough from my regular dough formula because I’m already familiar with it. Still, we need to make a few changes to our dough formula to allow it to be made quickly and be ready for making pizza skins in not much more than two hours.

I have found that increasing the yeast content to double the normal level helps to speed things up a bit. Increasing the finished dough temperature to something in the 90 to 95 F range really helps to get the dough on line within the two-hour time limit as well. The quickest way to do this is to just increase the temperature of the water that you are adding to the dough by 15 F (assuming you are presently targeting a finished dough temperature of 80 to 85 F). If you are not targeting your finished dough temperature in that range, give it your best estimation for water temperature to get your dough to come from the mixer within 90 to 95 F.

I also like to have a bag of reducing agent, such as PZ-44, on hand for these occasions. By including a reducing agent in the emergency dough formulation you will have a greater assurance that the dough will handle well without excessive snap-back during the forming procedure.

Lastly, adding a small amount of regular household vinegar (white vinegar/50 grain strength) will help to restore at least some of the flavor to the finished crust that you are going to lose due to the lack of fermentation. When adding vinegar, add it at one percent of the flour weight and reduce the water weight by the same amount. This will help to keep your dough formula in proper balance.

When mixing an emergency dough, keep in mind that the total mixing time will be about 75 percent of the mixing time used for your regular dough. This means if you normally mix your dough for 12 minutes, you will be looking at a total mixing time of about nine minutes for your emergency dough.

Immediately after mixing, scale the dough into desired weight pieces and form into balls. Wipe the dough balls with salad oil and place into dough boxes or your regular dough containers. Cover the dough containers to prevent drying and allow the dough to remain at room temperature for approximately two hours before you use it. Once you begin using the dough it will remain good to use for approximately 90 minutes. After that it will become too gassy to continue using and will need to be discarded.

One trick I use with an emergency dough is to watch the way it handles. As soon as I think it is approaching the end of its life, I will shift into high gear and begin forming dough skins that I can put onto screens and place on a wire rack in the cooler. By doing this I don’t need to discard as much of the dough, and I’m building an inventory of dough skins that will be ready to use with a minimum of preparation when I get slammed later in the day. When using these refrigerated dough skins, be sure to pull them from the cooler about 20 minutes before you anticipate needing them. This will allow them to warm slightly, which makes for a better overall bake with less bubbling. While we’re on the topic of bubbling, be sure to dock all of the emergency dough skins just before dressing them to help control bubbling.

You will need to make additional emergency doughs during the day until you can get back into your regular dough again (which will probably be on the following day). When you are making emergency dough during the day, you will probably find that you need to make a batch every 75 to 90 minutes to provide a continual supply of fresh dough. If you are like most shops and experience a slow period during the afternoon, you will probably be able to get away with using your refrigerated dough skins during this time, but you will need to gear back up for the busy evening hours.

Also, when making your emergency dough keep in mind that you can, and should, add back as much of your unused scrap dough as possible. Even if the dough is gassy, you can add it back to your new dough without any problems. Just don’t overload the capacity of your mixer when doing so.

Emergency dough is like an insurance policy. You hope you will never need to use it, but when the time comes, you’re mighty glad you’ve got it to fall back on.

Tom Lehmann is a former director at the American Institute of Baking in Manhattan, Kansas and Pizza Today’s resident dough expert.

 

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